Valérie (Alexval2) convinced me to publish this travel journal about our trip to Rajasthan, so here I go, sharing what will be my first travel journal! 🙂
But first, why India? This question has already been discussed on the forum. For me, I had these idealized images in mind: maharajahs, palaces, elephants, and friends who gave me glowing reviews. We’ve already been to Asia and wanted to do something different. We weren’t disappointed.
So, after spending what felt like hundreds of hours 😛 researching forums, blogs, and various guides, the Rajasthan region stood out as the perfect choice for a first discovery.
We managed to plan this itinerary, which is quite classic but structured around a must-see: the Pushkar Camel Fair. I’d read reviews and watched videos about it, all very enticing. We’ll see later how it turned out.
As usual, I had everything booked in advance because I don’t like wasting time looking for solutions once we’re there.
Our Air France flight arrived on time at 11:15 PM. We’d read the recommendations, and after collecting our luggage, we headed to the prepaid taxi booth. We got the receipt, and two charming guys took our suitcases to the taxi. When we arrived at the taxi, they asked for 500 INR for the porter service. Of course, I resisted, and with the driver’s help, we settled on 200 INR. Welcome to India.
We agreed with the friendly driver that he’d pick us up from the hotel (Ibis, great breakfast) for our flight to Jaisalmer. It was 2 AM, we collapsed into bed, but the night was short since we had to wake up at 5 AM.
For our 6th visit to this country, we traveled between Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh, and let’s just say it was an emotional rollercoaster!!
So if you’re up for it, we’re taking you to Varanasi, Chitrakoot, Khajuraho, Orchha, and Agra.
Ready for takeoff??
WELCOME TO VARANASI
When you leave your sanitized, rigid Western world behind, there’s nothing like diving back into the Indian chaos.
And we nailed it—because when it comes to monumental madness, we couldn’t have picked a better place to start than Varanasi 😉!!
Here’s a little recap of our first day in this insane city.
It all starts with landing at the city’s airport.
As soon as we step out, hundreds of Indians stare at us like they’ve never seen white people before (I’d forgotten how intense that is!). There are lots of women covered in black fabric, only their eyes visible—pretty striking, I must say.
Turns out they’re Indians working in the Middle East, heading back to "work" after a month’s vacation.
We hop in a taxi, but after a few kilometers, we’re stopped… by the passage of the "state minister."
The roads are freshly paved and spotless for his convoy (you can *totally* tell the difference with the roads he didn’t use 😛).
We didn’t manage to spot him in the middle of the 25 cars surrounding him, though!!
Then we arrive in front of the mythical Ganges—a peaceful spot, except for a boat full of Indian pilgrims who, once again, stare at us and take our pictures (the mutual curiosity is hilarious!!).
We board a boat, and almost immediately, we pass a cremation ghat!!
Oh crap, I wasn’t expecting that so soon—it hits me hard (like, *really* hard 🤪)!!
Huge piles of wood, eight massive fires with families gathered around. It lasts as long as the boat ride, and you think you must’ve imagined it… but no!!
You dock and wander through the tiny alleys.
It’s 36°C (97°F) with 90% humidity—you’re dripping.
Cows block the way sometimes. The air smells like incense, then urine, then a woman’s perfume, then rotten fruit, then amazing street food—all within two meters, and *everywhere*!!
Then you step into the main street where pilgrims arrive (60,000 a day—Varanasi is the country’s holiest city!!). The chaos ramps up as you head toward the main road: nonstop honking, a bike whizzing past on your right, a scooter on your left, people brushing against you from all sides, air thick with dust and smoke (diesel *or* cremation!!), beggars of all kinds (kids, elderly, disabled) lined up to appeal to the pilgrims, the suffocating heat, and noise—*so much* noise…
In some areas, people constantly approach you: "Come see my shop," "Need a taxi?" "Want to exchange money?" And then there’s the woman with her baby in her arms, following you for meters, repeating, "No money, milk; no money, milk…" And you’re *dying* inside, but you can’t stop. If you give in, ten more will come running!!
You grit your teeth, keep walking, even talk to yourself out loud!!
After half an hour, it feels like you’ve run a marathon, and you don’t even know where you live anymore!
In the evening, you head to the PUJA (public prayers for all the pilgrims) on a boat in the middle of hundreds of others.
Two ghats are competing—who can make the most noise.
One side is singing, the other chanting, then they switch.
They wave flames, the ghats are packed.
After dinner, you head back to your room around 9 PM and see hundreds of people sleeping on the scorching stones—with cows, dogs, and goats!!!!
A huge thank-you to our parents for giving us the mental balance to handle this, because *India drives you crazy*—and we’re right in the thick of it!!!
It’s an ex.tra.or.di.nary place in the truest sense of the word, with incredible beauty—especially in its human diversity—if you can look past what shocks you.
We stayed for 3 days—3 days of unmatched intensity, where the spectacle is *constant*.
So I *highly* recommend it to all travel lovers, those who embrace difference, and the strange (for us, at least). But definitely *not* for anyone looking for a relaxing vacation!!
Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!
Thursday, March 20th.
The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car.
This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal.
The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet.
After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime.
Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR).
I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets.
I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.
I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here.
I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!
Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.
Given the extreme difficulty of getting a dentist appointment in my area (Lot/Aveyron—even traveling 2 hours each way by train to Toulouse, even with the dentist I’ve been a client of for years in my small town of Capdenac)—and considering the cost of dental implants in France, I decided to get a full dental overhaul during my annual stay of several months in Kerala (I’ve been spending time in Alleppey from late October to late March for several years now).
My Indian friends in Alleppey recommended a private dental clinic (I was pleasantly surprised that this clinic was qualified to place implants, as I thought I’d have to make multiple trips to Ernakulam/Cochin—60 km each way on a road that’s pretty rough right now due to massive construction stretching for dozens of kilometers).
Results of the check-up on November 5, 2024:
- 1 canine and an adjacent premolar slightly chipped at the top → need root canal treatment before covering them with a crown
- 1 molar next to those two teeth already had a root canal → also needs a crown
- 1 other canine broken deep down → needs to be extracted and replaced with an implant
- 4 molars completely extracted years ago → 4 dental implants.
Here are the procedures I’ve already had (from November 5 to 22, 2024):
- First session: initial assessment by the lead dentist (multiple X-rays displayed on a large screen, which he used to explain what he could do and what he recommended. For each implant, he showed me the required bone depth, and since I have very strong jaws, he remarked that I was an ideal candidate for implants). A dental assistant then outlined the proposed treatment timeline and the cost of each major procedure on a piece of paper (I took a photo of the notes so I wouldn’t lose track of the details).
- Second session: placement of dental implants on the 4 molars in about an hour and a half (under local anesthesia—long but not painful at all during the procedure, though I had a bad headache all day afterward and a dull but manageable ache for a few days. Medication to take for 5 days, including an antibiotic. Obviously, no chewing hard foods for a while—soup, mashed potatoes, rice, yogurt for two days, then gradually more varied meals). Stitches for the gums around the 4 molars.
- Third session: root canal treatment for a canine and a premolar (very long but absolutely painless under local anesthesia) + extraction of the deeply broken canine (a bit painful despite the anesthesia, but bearable—the lead dentist had to apply force and try three times. An assistant held my head from behind, but it was more unsettling than painful).
- Fourth session: preparation of the canine, premolar, and adjacent molar for two crowns and a bridge. Removal of stitches around the 4 implants already placed.
- Fifth session: impressions for the 2 crowns and bridge
- Sixth session: placement of the 2 crowns and bridge
- Seventh session scheduled for December 6: placement of a 5th implant where the canine was extracted
- Late February: placement of the 5 crowns on the 5 implants
Meanwhile, my 85-year-old mother had a loose tooth extracted that had been bothering her since mid-September 2024 (her French dentist wouldn’t give her an appointment before January 2025, and she even traveled to a dentist in Toulouse who ultimately refused to extract it, even though the tooth was barely holding on and I’d sent the list of medications she takes in advance. My mother was furious about the wasted trip, and so was I, though I tried to stay calm!). At the Alleppey dental clinic, the assistants reviewed her medication list, looked them up online to identify them, and weren’t concerned. Another dentist extracted her tooth (under local anesthesia, of course) in barely 30 seconds. My mother immediately trusted them and decided on the spot to get a full lower denture. It was delivered to her definitively on Friday, November 22 (I think it took 4 or 5 sessions total). After two days of use, she’s happy with it and has a follow-up appointment next week for a check-up and adjustments if needed (though major modifications aren’t possible after the teeth are fixed to the denture). The session where the young dentist shaped the denture in real time was impressively precise and professional (the base had already been made from an impression, and the dentist added at least ten layers of softened paste with a flame, testing each addition in her mouth. Each time, he asked her to move her tongue from cheek to cheek, stick out her tongue, talk for 15 seconds, and swallow to ensure the denture wasn’t uncomfortable—about 45 minutes total).
Ballpark costs of the procedures:
- Tooth extraction: around 2000 ₹
- Root canal treatment: around 5000 ₹
- Ceramic crown placement: around 15,000 ₹
- Titanium implant placement (made by Nobel Biocare): around 35,000 ₹
(Total for implant + tooth: around 50,000 ₹)
- Lower denture fabrication: just under 20,000 ₹. Three material options—my mother chose the best for a rigid denture. She didn’t want to get 2 implants to secure it better (she didn’t feel the need with her old, very worn denture).
General impressions: This dental clinic is very well-regarded in Alleppey (according to all my Indian friends). There are two operating chairs on the ground floor and at least four on the first floor. The lead dentist (quite young) owns the clinic and handles the most delicate procedures (like implants) while occasionally overseeing work done by colleagues (after another dentist performed the root canal on my two teeth, he not only visually inspected it but also gave it a final touch with the drill). How many dentists handle more routine procedures? I’m not sure, but they’re all fairly young—men and a few young women. There are also many assistants: some prepare tools or operate the saliva suction, while others, more qualified, process images (X-rays or scans) on screen and explain things to me using those images. Others spent ten minutes briefing my mother in the waiting room on how to use and care for her new denture. During more delicate procedures, the operating dentist is assisted by two others. Two receptionists handle payments and appointments at the front desk. The welcome is always efficient and attentive, thanks to the dental assistants who guide us and provide explanations (the two receptionists don’t speak English). Appointments are always quick, even though the clinic seems busy (the waiting room is often full of Indian clients, though patients rarely come alone—they’re usually accompanied by a family member who stays close during the procedure). All the dentists speak English (since my mother doesn’t, I sat near the operating chair during each session to translate). So far, no complaints—I’m looking forward to March 2025 for the final result after the 5 teeth are placed on my 5 implants (the two crowns and bridge already fitted are perfect for me). 🙂
Hello everyone,
we got back from our trip to Kashmir and Ladakh three weeks ago.
We spent 4 weeks there, including one in Kashmir.
We’re really happy with our stay in Srinagar and Sonamarg. The Kashmiris gave us a very warm welcome and seemed pleased to see tourists who weren’t Indian. In fact, over the 4 days we spent in Srinagar, we only saw 4 people who looked European... Srinagar is stunning with its lakes and the lively Mughal gardens. No trouble getting around, whether by shikara, rickshaw, taxi, or on foot. The houseboats are gorgeous, unfortunately controlled by consortiums. We took a taxi to Sonamarg (20 €).
Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians.
To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...
His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).
We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.
Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €).
We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...
I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple.
Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.
We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...
I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.
Hi everyone,
We're back in India for the 7th time (for the other trips, check here:
https://www.unendroitoualler.fr/asie/) ... But this time, no more exploring or trekking! With age, we're just spending a quiet month in southern India, a country we particularly love...
Our journey starts in Kovalam, then Monroe Island, Varkala, Kochi, Kannur, Udupi, and finally, as in recent years, Gokarna.
No problem getting around—there’s the train all along the coast...
Night in Trivandrum
Prepaid taxi to the « Safire Residency », where we stayed last year. This hotel is still just as nice and welcoming (980 INR). Then, dinner at the restaurant « Ariya Niwas » where we enjoyed those delicious dosas again! (We missed them!)
Hi everyone,
for my 6th trip to India, I’ve chosen Ladakh and Zanskar. I’m planning a 15-day itinerary with a driver (one week in Ladakh and one week in Zanskar).
I’m looking for info and tips from people who’ve recently traveled to these regions—anything that could help me prepare my route, must-see spots (or not!), accommodation advice, etc.
Is it necessary to visit all three main lakes usually included in traditional circuits (Tso Moriri, Pangong, and Tso Kar)?
In the Nubra Valley, the Hunder dunes with the camels don’t really tempt me given the mixed reviews... What do you think?
Big question about altitude sickness—I’ve read that you should take it easy for a full day before hitting the road. Is that enough, or should I plan an extra day?
Is it easy and quick to get the Inner Line Permit for the regions where it’s required?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Namaste!
Here I am live from Delhi, past midnight, at least 30 degrees....
I wanted to post the start of this France travel journal but couldn’t find the time, so here it is live!
Off we go for a third trip, but this time for double the duration—6 weeks with the goal of discovering Ladakh and Spiti, starting with a detour to Varanasi to meet up with Babeli and her family.
I'm planning a return trip to India next year, and this time I want to check out what's nice on the way up to Manali. Since the bus rides are really long coming from the plains (Chandigarh or even Delhi), I'm looking for a place to stop along the way (my partner and I). I’ve spotted Kullu, about an hour from Manali, but no matter how much I study the map, I can’t tell if there’s an actual town there. We really don’t want to end up in some isolated hotel that’s only convenient for people traveling with their own transport—definitely not our style. We prefer to drop our bags in a room, freshen up a bit, then wander around streets or alleys with at least a little life.
So, I’m wondering if we’d be better off just skipping Kullu altogether.
What do you think, folks who’ve been there before?
I already have my flight ticket—departing from Nice on December 2 at 12:30 PM and returning on December 26 at midnight—for southern India... (gorgeous!)
I’ve been creating my travel journals for 15 years, and this one is ready too. The guesthouse and hotel (few) reservations are made... The itinerary is super nice...
And the Christmas festivities to see as well!
Unfortunately, due to health issues, my travel companion had to cancel this trip.
So, I’m looking for someone just like her... and like me. Fun, easygoing, friendly, and funny.
Someone who loves to laugh, who’s okay with transportation (buses, trains, rickshaws (tuk-tuks), bikes (very little... just on an island))...
Who’ll leave their worries at home, has no health issues, and enjoys going out during the day and in the evening for a drink.
I’ll get my visa this month... If someone is interested and decides quickly, we could definitely be on the same flight...
I’ll obviously show you my itinerary...
No need to reach out if you’re indecisive or just curious—thanks for understanding... With less than three months until departure, we need to move fast...
The trip is all set...
23 nights on-site, flight ticket, visa, excursions, food, etc.—budget around 2600 €. Not bad, right?
On the agenda: various visits, endless rice fields and tea plantations, beaches, markets, chilling sometimes—in short, pure happiness.
People with difficult personalities or who are easily annoyed (lol) are excluded... Just someone nice who loves to have fun and live peacefully!
I work on my travel journals for 4 months, so this is about making the trip a success and being happy... I’ve been creating my own itineraries for 15 years...
My itinerary is ready... If you’re sure you can be free for the entire stay from December 2 to 26 (I’m not ruling out a travel companion), everyone will have their own room for the whole trip—I’ve booked everything accordingly...
A passport valid for at least 6 months after the return date is mandatory!
I managed to get a round-trip flight ticket for 580 € with very little waiting time (1.5 and 2.5-hour layovers... (Iberia operated by Qatar... With a bit of luck, we could be on the same flight).... I’ll apply for my visa online by the end of September... So, be sure of yourself so we can meet up quickly and possibly validate our visas together and book your flight ticket...
Our trip through Nepal, Rajasthan, South India, and the Andaman Islands.
Dates: October 26 to January 14, 2025
Departure from Geneva to Kathmandu.
NEPAL, one month.
2 days of exploring between Kathmandu and Patan.
14 days of trekking from Kathmandu to Langtang, passing by sacred lakes.
Trek with a French-speaking guide and 2 porters from the local French-speaking tour operator "NEPAL VOYAGE."
Ended with a helicopter ride due to a wrist fracture on black ice at 3,900m.
3 days in the hospital in Kathmandu.
Continued the trip in Nepal with a self-guided stay in Bhaktapur and Pokhara.
Returned to Kathmandu by plane, then flew to Delhi.
RAJASTHAN.
18 days touring Rajasthan with a French-speaking driver "RAVINDRA MENA."
Highlights: Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur*, Ranakpur*, Udaipur*, Bundi, Pushkar*, Jaipur, Agra, Jaipur (Top spots marked with *).
Flight from Jaipur to Kochi.
KERALA.
Kochi, 3 nights—disappointing, but the Backwaters to the north by scooter were stunning and not touristy.
Kochi to Varkala by Uber with a Canadian couple.
Varkala, 4 nights—great for relaxing, but scooter rentals weren’t available, which was a shame.
Varkala to Munroe Island by train. 2 nights in Monroe.
Munroe Island to Kumilly. 2 nights on Christmas Day—meh, not much to do since all the park excursions were booked by Indian tourists.
Kumilly to Munnar by local taxi, negotiated the day before.
Munnar—processions, tea fields, and *so* many Indian tourists during this period that it was impossible to find scooters to rent.
TAMIL NADU
Crossed Tamil Nadu from Munnar to Auroville in 3 days, stopping at the extraordinary Tamil temples of Madurai, Trichy, Thanjavur, Darasuram, Chidambaram, and others.
With the lunar conjunction, pilgrimages, and year-end holidays, there were *tons* of pilgrims!
Auroville to Pondicherry by scooter, then a tuk-tuk for New Year’s Eve—still *so* crowded!
Pondicherry to Mahabalipuram by local bus.
Mahabalipuram, 2 nights—nice and chill.
Mahabalipuram to Chennai by Uber.
ANDAMAN ISLANDS
Chennai to Port Blair by flight, Andaman Islands.
Port Blair, 2 nights—almost too much!
Speedboat to Havelock, 4 nights—still lots of Indian tourism.
Couldn’t go snorkeling with a dive operator or rent gear.
Luckily, we managed to buy some and do it ourselves.
Speedboat to Neil Island, 3 days, 2 nights—too short, but excellent snorkeling from "Elephant, Four Wise Men."
Phew, no biting flies, and we weren’t eaten by crocodiles.
Back to Port Blair, then Delhi, one night, and return to Geneva.
Our impressions of India.
Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu—we eventually got tired of palaces and temples.
It’s always complicated and exhausting to get around on foot in the cities.
During the year-end period from mid-December to mid-January, *so* many tourists!
The Andaman Islands were a bit disappointing—too short, and for snorkeling, Indonesia is easier and less expensive.
I’ve booked a round-trip flight to Mumbai from October 4th to 24th, 2025. I haven’t finalized my itinerary yet, but my plan is to spend 2 nights in Mumbai (hotel booked in Colaba), a few nights in Nashik, and then head down to Gokarna.
I’m a young-at-heart sixty-something who stays very active and loves traveling.
This will be my third trip to "southern" India, so I know what to expect in terms of cultural differences. Plus, my native language is English, so I have no trouble understanding or being understood, no matter the accent over there.
I’d be happy to meet up and share some moments with you—young or not-so-young—if you’re up for it.
Hello everyone!
What a pleasure to be back on this forum after all these years… Goodness, we’re clearly far from the days of backpacking solo and carefree! Today, I’m well and truly "tied down," with two adorable little anchors—ages 3 and 5½—keeping me on my toes 😊
But here we are, finally mustering the courage to dive back into adventure, backpacks and all… this time as a family!
We know traveling with young kids won’t be a walk in the park, but we’re ready to adapt. And for that, I’ll need your brilliant advice!
Here’s our plan:
We’ve got our tickets for Kochi, from December 28 to January 5, 2026.
From my research, I’ve seen that this period is super lively in Kochi, with lots of festivities. I’ve also read that despite the crowds, it’s generally pretty "kids-friendly." Can any of you confirm this?
I figure it’d be a shame to miss all the fun, especially if there are parades (with or without elephants… even if I’m not a fan of the concept, I know my kids would be amazed…).
As for the itinerary, I’m still a bit unsure.
Since New Year’s Eve falls right in the middle of our trip, it complicates the idea of doing a loop around Kerala. Here’s what I’m considering so far:
December 28: Arrival in Kochi, then we’d head straight to Marari Beach (or a similar beach) to settle in and let the kids get their bearings.
December 30: Houseboat cruise in Alleppey
December 31: Back to Kochi, to enjoy the New Year’s festivities
We’d stay in Kochi until January 1 or 2, then head to Munroe Island for a few more relaxing days before heading home
January 5: Flight back to France
My big question: Is spending New Year’s Eve in Kochi with kids a good idea?
Or should we arrive, then leave the city quickly to avoid the crowds?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, experiences, and tips. I’m all ears for any suggestions to make this first (real) family trip as smooth as possible 😊
Friday, April 18
Night in Guwahati
Before leaving the guesthouse, I drop off a small bag that I’ll pick up when I return.
I take a tuk-tuk at 7:40 AM to get to the sumo departure point for Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya.
My bag is loaded onto the roof, my seat is assigned, and we have to wait for the car to fill up.
While waiting, I watch the street come to life. I have fun photographing the different modes of transport passing by.
Time passes faster when you’re occupied.
We leave at 8:20 AM, and the driver does door-to-door service along the way. We make our first stop for 25 minutes at 9:10 AM, then another for breakfast at 10:10 AM. The scenery is very different from Assam and Nagaland. We drive alongside a pine forest and a large lake. There are beautiful viewpoints, but the driver isn’t stopping for sightseeing, so I have to settle for looking through the car windows.
We finally arrive in Shillong at 11:45 AM. The driver stops in the middle of nowhere, so I have to walk up the street to find a taxi. I flag one down, and he agrees to take me to my new guesthouse, the Rockski Boutique Bed & Breakfast. No sooner do I arrive than a storm with a heavy downpour welcomes me.
When I arrived in Guwahati at the end of October, I’d booked a guide with a car for this week. There’s no public transport to get from village to village, so I had to take a car to visit.
The tourism manager, Sachin, sent me a message to let me know that the driver, Welbis, will pick me up tomorrow morning at 8 AM.
The temperature is much cooler here—only 19°C.
At 2:30 PM, the rain stops, and I take the opportunity to explore the city. I start with the cathedral. Today is Good Friday, so I’m going to see how it’s celebrated here. Meghalaya is a Catholic state. The cathedral isn’t far from the guesthouse—it’s huge and all blue.
I arrive during mass, and it’s impossible to enter—the faithful are numerous outside in the parking lot. Giant screens broadcast the ceremony.
Hello,
We’ve already traveled to India twice before, but only for two-week stretches (2013, a loop from Mumbai including Hampi, and in 2019, Tamil Nadu). This time, we’re leaving at the end of October for nearly three months of travel—something completely new for us! We’ll arrive in Delhi and depart from Bangalore. Our goal is to explore Northern India and then head down to Kerala, taking a maximum of one flight and prioritizing trains.
Traveling for this long should let us plan longer stops to slow down the pace and fully enjoy our trip...
What are the places you’ve loved with this in mind?
I’ve already thought of Gokarna... Do you have any other suggestions, especially in Northern India?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
This journal recounts a trip to Rajasthan that’s already over a year old and that I’m only now getting around to writing up. The summer of 2024 marked my return to India—my tenth trip—after six long years away since my last solo wanderings in Tamil Nadu back in 2018 (the journal for which is published on this site).
Hi everyone,
I’ve browsed this forum a lot about Ladakh and haven’t found answers to my questions... so here’s my post.
I’m heading there next July with a friend for a solid ten days of cycling (no e-bikes) in Ladakh. The flight to Leh is booked for both of us and our bikes.
I’ve got my route planned out pretty precisely; the main goal is to climb Umling La, which is currently the world’s highest motorable road at 5,798 m. We’re also planning to tackle 3 or 4 other passes over 5,000 m, including Photila, just next door at a little over 5,500 m.
I’ve read accounts from Europeans saying it’s impossible for foreigners to spend a night in Hanle... that the closest accommodation to the Chinese border would be in Nyoma. What do you think about that?
Also, some say the road between Hanle and Chushul (the one via Tsaga) is off-limits to non-Indians... Is the parallel route, the one via Mahé and Kaksang La (5,400 m), open to foreigners?
Is the road along Pangong Lake (the one through Merak and Man) also off-limits to foreigners?
I need to get to Rishikesh (staying with a local) from Indira Gandhi Airport in Delhi next Sunday. Does anyone know the average fare for long-distance taxis on this route? The trip takes about 4-5 hours. Thanks! 😊
Hello and happy travels for 2025!
Reading through the discussions, I’m wondering what to pick between Bikaner and Jaisalmer for spending a few days in the desert without running into too many tour groups. Should I skip Jaisalmer? Rent a motorcycle and go solo? I’d love to hear any tips. Thanks
I traveled to India and Nepal in March 2024 and hired a driver through an online agency. No issues—the agency was great, nothing to complain about—but it turns out that booking directly with the driver is much cheaper. Based on my conversations with him, I’m not paid or commissioned in any way; I’m just sharing this to help you save some money and recommend a good driver. So don’t hesitate to DM me if you want his contact info. I’m doing this for you and for the driver, who’d also prefer to keep a little more of the margin instead of it going to the agency.
I used his services for 10 days, and I can only recommend him—he was my guardian angel in India, gave great advice, was super reliable, and very professional. So feel free to ask me for his contact if you’re interested; otherwise, no worries! ^^
Here’s my trip if you’re curious :stuck_out_tongue:
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
For those planning a trip to Kerala, here’s a quick, practical summary.
For the most part: the stunning landscapes, the natural kindness of the locals, their cuisine, and their culture—you’ll get to enjoy all of that once you’re there...
Flight (arrival and departure to/from Cochin)
Avoid Air India and opt for flights via the Middle East: Saudi Arabia, Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Oman, etc.
Price: between 500 € and 600 €
Accommodations
Average price: 20 € per night for a couple (max: 40 €, min: 10 €, often including breakfast), via the usual booking sites.
Homestays (staying in the owner’s house) are of a higher standard.
Only 2 nights were spent in questionable cleanliness. The rest were good, even very good, or even *very* very good.
Car with Driver
All-inclusive daily price: tolls, fuel, driver’s lodging and meals... and of course, we often shared our meals with our driver too.
Toyota sedan (e.g., Corolla) for 4 travelers (1 in front, 3 in the back): 50 € / day,
Toyota SUV (e.g., Innova) for up to 6 travelers: 60 € / day
DM me if you’d like more details.
Overall budget (excluding flights and shopping)
Around 1500 € for 1 couple for the 3 weeks... in "2-couple mode"!
(i.e., sharing the driver’s cost).
Itinerary
Night 1: Arrival in Cochin in the morning, departure for Attirappily
Beautiful waterfalls
Night 2: Thrissur
Via Vallachira, not much tourist interest, a stop to ease into the trip and shorten the journey to Wayanad
Nights 3, 4, 5: Wayanad, staying in Sultan Battery
Coffee and tea plantations, dam lake, URAVU (bamboo craft workshop), ...
Night 6: Ooty
Botanical garden, then a really fun tourist train the next afternoon to Metupalaiyam
Night 7: Toward Coimbatore
Nights 8, 9, 10: Munnar
City visit, stunning tea plantations
Nights 11, 12: Thekkady/Kumilly
Amazing tea plantations, sightseeing, Jeep ride, not-so-interesting boat tour on Periyar Lake, trekking options
Night 13: Marari Beach (near Alleppey)
4-hour backwaters tour, then beach (swimming, dinner)
Nights 14, 15, 16: Munroe Island
Super chill, walks around the island (small coir rope factory), sunrise by boat or canoe, sunset
Night 17: Varkala
Gorgeous beaches, shopping
Night 18: Trivandrum
City center visit, then train back to Cochin the next day in 3 hours.
Night 19: Cochin
Fort Kochi is a lovely way to wrap up the trip
Have a great trip in this incredible region, so unique in India!
Exploring India by road is all about having a good driver. I highly recommend the one I’ve traveled with for 5 "safe" trips—Rajasthan 3 times over 16 years, Gujarat, Himachal Pradesh, and Punjab. He’s been driving tourists for 25 years now and is more than just a driver. He knows how to talk about his country, the cities you visit, and suggests alternative routes.
He’s well-connected with real local guides who don’t just ramble (as he puts it himself) or drag you into shops claiming to be run by their "so-called family." Depending on your preferences, he can suggest well-tested itineraries and recommend typical hotels like Havelis.
For dining, he oversees meal prep based on your spice-level preferences. He’s Sikh and deeply respectful of his passengers.
He speaks English better than French, but one of his daughters is studying French at university.
Hello,
my Indian fiancé and I are getting married in France in a few weeks. Like many couples before us, we had extreme difficulties finding out the steps to follow in India to obtain the necessary documents for our marriage. We received no useful information from the Indian Embassy in Paris. It took us hours of research on traveler forums to gather scattered information and piece together the puzzle. I decided to summarize here the steps that allowed my fiancé to obtain the required papers, so other couples can struggle a little less than we did in the future.
I hope this post helps!
Context reminder: the list of documents required for a non-EU national to marry in France (see also www.service-public.fr):
Certificate of Custom: This is an explanation in French of the rules governing marriage eligibility in your country of origin. I read that some countries include proof that the applicant is indeed eligible. This is not the case for India.
Single-status certificate/marital capacity certificate. This is simply proof that you are eligible to marry under the laws of your country of origin.
Birth certificate.
All these documents must be less than 6 months old at the date of the banns publication.
The birth certificate and the single-status certificate must be apostilled. This procedure is linked to the international Hague Convention, of which both France and India are members. The apostille is a kind of stamp affixed to an official document by the authorities of the country where it was issued, giving it legal value in a third country.
How we obtained these documents:
The certificate of custom is very easy to obtain if you already live in France. You just need to go to the Indian Embassy in Paris with the required documents and pay the fees. We received it by mail the next day. The instructions on the Indian Embassy in Paris website are very clear (spring 2019). See also the VFS Global website (the company to which the embassy outsources consular activities).
Obtaining the single-status certificate was much more complicated. In France, a birth certificate is enough to prove whether you are married or not, as annotations are added for every major life event. In contrast, the Indian administration, although it can prove that someone is already married, is unable to prove that someone is still single. The only way to resolve this is to produce an affidavit. It took several trials and errors before we succeeded, as the administrators we dealt with generally did not know the procedure. Here’s what finally worked:
Prepare the affidavit on 100-rupee bond paper (first party: signatory; second party: Sub-Divisional Magistrate) at the Sub-Divisional Magistrate’s office in your place of birth. See Model No. 1 below. It must be signed by you and the Sub-Divisional Magistrate. For my fiancé, the latter only agreed to sign after presenting a certificate from the Tahsildar of his birth Taluk stating that he knew my fiancé was still single. If you don’t know the Tahsildar well, it might be useful to first request such a certificate from the "village accountant" before approaching the Tahsildar. We don’t know if the process would be the same in other districts than my fiancé’s.
Attestation at the Regional Commissioner’s (RC) office. The Ministry of External Affairs will only apostille documents that have been attested this way. In our case, we found clear information about the procedure on the Regional Commissioner’s website (required documents, cost, bond paper value). The RC asked us to justify why my fiancé needed a single-status certificate. Such certificates are usually requested by people wishing to join the army, in which case the RC receives a request letter. I asked the mayor of my village to sign such a letter (see Model No. 2, which I wrote myself). I come from a very small town, which was lucky here, as the mayor knows both of us personally and immediately agreed to do it. I have no idea if it would be as easy in a larger town. Once the document was submitted to the RC, it was sent back to the administrator who issued it for authentication. This back-and-forth should not take more than 25 days, but it may be useful to follow the progress of the procedure by calling or visiting the offices of both administrations regularly.
Send the attested documents to the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) for apostille. In 2019, the Indian MEA only accepts apostille requests through private operators, whose list is available on the MEA website.
The birth certificate, once obtained from the municipality of your place of birth, follows the same procedure as the single-status certificate: attestation by the Regional Commissioner, then apostille at the Ministry of External Affairs.
Note: The Indian Embassy in Paris offers to issue a birth certificate. We recommend NOT GOING THROUGH THEM. The procedure is expensive, and they simply copy the information available on your passport. We seriously doubt the validity of such a document for marriage.
A few tips:
Obtaining these documents in India will require a lot of time, patience, and creativity! For us, more than 4 months passed between the moment my fiancé signed his single-status certificate and the day we had it apostilled in hand. In the meantime, there were dozens of phone calls and visits to various local administrations, a lot of brainstorming, and money wasted on canceled flights due to the monsoon.
If you have contacts in the local administration, don’t hesitate to use them. Also, if possible, closely monitor the progress of the procedures by calling or visiting the offices regularly, as mistakes are very common.
I recommend only requesting the certificate of custom once you’re close to having the other documents in hand, as it’s expensive, its issuance is very quick (at least if you both live in France; otherwise, I don’t know), and it’s only valid for 6 months.
All the steps for the birth certificate and the single-status certificate must be done in person, which can be complicated if you already live outside India. Some companies offer to handle it for you if you’re willing to pay. My fiancé bypassed the problem by designating his brother as an "Authorised representative" (a step taken at the notary of his birth Taluk). Once the single-status certificate was established in person, my fiancé’s brother was able to take over and complete the rest of the steps on his behalf. Finally, we asked the service provider handling the apostille to send the documents to our address in France via DHL (we don’t trust the postal service, as we’ve had mail stuck at customs for several weeks before).
My fiancé first tried to establish his single-status certificate at the notary of his birth Taluk. It didn’t work because the Regional Commissioner categorically refused to attest it. Indeed, it is generally forbidden to make any modifications to a document signed by a notary.
Once the birth certificate and the single-status certificate arrive in France, you must have them translated by a sworn translator registered with the Court of Appeal in your area. You can find the list on your Court of Appeal’s website. There are no sworn translators for all Indian languages! So, check beforehand if one exists for the language in which your certificates will be issued, or ensure they are issued in English.
Model No. 1 - Single-status certificate, affidavit
I, (name of applicant), son of (name of father) and (name of mother), with permanent address (address in India), solemnly affirm and declare as follows:
1. That I am a citizen of India
2. That I was born in (place of birth) on the (date of birth)
3. That I am holding a valid Indian passport bearing the number (passport number) issued at (place of issue) and valid from (date of issue) to (date of expiry).
4. That I am unmarried (single) and have no living spouse at present either in India or abroad
5. That I am eligible to marry an Indian or a person of any other nationality according to law.
6. That I am of sound health and in mentally fit condition
7. I further state that whatever stated therein is correct to the best of my knowledge.
I am aware that suppression of facts or furnishing false/misleading information is punishable under Indian law, under section 193(2), 199, 200 of the Indian Penal Code.
Solemnly declared at (place of signature) on (date of signature).
(your signature) (the subdivisional magistrate’s signature)
Model No. 2 – Request letter from the French mayor to the Indian Regional Commissioner
Dear Sir/Madam,
(English version below)
I, the undersigned (Mayor’s name), Mayor of the Commune of xxx, department of xxx, France, certify as follows.
Firstly, that
Mr./Ms. (Name of the Indian future spouse), citizen of India, passport No. xxx, issued in xxx on xxx, valid until xxx, residing at (address), INDIA,
and
Ms./Mr. (Name of the French future spouse), citizen of France, passport No. xxx, residing at (address), FRANCE,
have requested that I solemnize their marriage in my Commune under French law.
Secondly,
that French law requires me to request from Mr./Ms. (Name of the Indian future spouse) a certificate attesting to their single status.
Issued for all legal purposes.
(Place, date, stamp, and signature of the mayor)
Note:
Prepared on the town hall’s letterhead, directly in both French AND English to avoid needing a translator.
I’m heading to India in April 2007 for a month (Delhi, Varanasi, Rajasthan). I’d love to know how Indian women dress. I’ve been searching but keep landing on sites without photos. I’ve read a lot, but I’d really like to see. I’m planning to travel light and buy clothes there, but I have no idea what to expect. My partner showed me some photos he took, but I’d like to know more.
Has anyone here done the same or brought their own clothes? I want to blend in as much as possible (disappear into the crowd), which is why I want to dress like them.
Does anyone have a site to recommend?
Hi everyone! 🙂
My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00
- **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time.
- **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?*
- **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**.
- **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa.
*- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?*
- **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?*
Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season?
Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?*
- Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**,
- 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris.
Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices?
What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*?
Thanks so much! 🙂
My train to Mathura is at 2 PM, and we’ll arrive an hour late—all good. I booked a hotel on booking, but unfortunately, it’s really far from the ghats. Walking there is out of the question—what a shame.
The hotel itself is fine, and there are several restaurants right across the street, which will be handy for dinner. This won’t be an exception, though—starting at 10 PM, they must wake up because I can hear them talking loudly, and music is playing along. My room faces the entrance, so it’s going to be tough. At midnight, I ask them to lower the volume, but they don’t listen. By 1 AM, I lose my temper, and this time, everything stops. Finally, I can get some sleep—until 4 AM, when they start up again for a little while before quiet returns until 6 AM. But when do they sleep? The noise never seems to bother them—it’s unbelievable, and I’m finding it harder and harder to tolerate. It makes a huge difference.
The next morning, as I leave, they tell me they’ll give me another room for the following night. Oh, two nights like that wouldn’t be possible—I’m exhausted.
I head out to explore the ghats and take a rickshaw, which I share with a family, to Vrindavan, a city of temples dedicated to Krishna. I visit several while wandering through the lively streets, surrounded by a crowd of devotees. By 1 PM, I’m near the Bankey Bihari Temple, but I can’t go in—it just closed. Nearby, there are restaurants, so I take the opportunity to grab my usual aloo paratha with a lassi.
The work women do here is incredibly hard, and their pay must be miserable.
I want to leave Vrindavan for Govardhan.
Two young guys on a motorcycle in front of the temple approach me, and the driver offers to take me part of the way. I’m pretty skeptical, but he insists, and I eventually agree. I didn’t fully understand what was happening. Once on the bike, his friend hops on too, and suddenly I’m sandwiched between them for a multi-kilometer ride—*travel Indian-style*. We quickly drop off the friend, and I breathe easier for the rest of the trip. At an intersection, he stops—Govardhan is straight ahead, but to get to his village, he needs to turn right. We wait for the bus for a few minutes, and he flags it down so I can hop on and continue my journey. What an adventure.
My friend and I are arriving in New Delhi on March 4th at 12:05 AM. Could anyone recommend a decent and affordable hotel? Is 20 € the going rate?
Thanks!
