Hi everyone,
My wife and I are planning our very first 4x4 trip. We recently bought a used Toyota Land Cruiser 150, still completely stock but in great condition. This is a big first for us—until now, our travels have been more hiking-focused, but the idea of trying out a 4x4 has been itching at me for a few years.
We’re thinking of heading to Morocco for a few weeks, probably in the spring. The plan is to mix the Atlas Mountains, southern valleys, and some easy trails between Merzouga, Tata, Foum Zguid, or the Draa Valley. Nothing extreme—we’re total beginners.
I’m in the middle of outfitting the vehicle and could really use your input, especially from those who know the country or have prepped a 4x4 for this kind of itinerary.
For a trip like this, is a stock Land Cruiser 150 enough, or should we consider a few upgrades (AT tires, sand ladders, compressor) to feel more confident on the southern trails?
For a first off-road adventure: would you recommend bringing a kit of wear-and-tear parts (filters, belts, hoses), or is a good pre-trip inspection with just the bare essentials enough in Morocco?
Finally, I’m torn between three roof tent brands: James Baroud, Autohome, and Roof Space. For heavy use in Morocco (heat, wind, daily setup), which brand do you think is best in terms of ventilation and mechanism durability? Are there any key criteria to consider when choosing?
Thanks in advance for your advice! We’re finalizing the budget and gearing up the vehicle, so all real-world feedback is welcome.
Julien
72 similar discussions in English
Hi there,
We’re planning to visit southern Morocco from April 30th to May 11th (10 full days). I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on the itinerary I’ve planned. We’ll be arriving in Ouarzazate and departing from Agadir. We’re thinking of renting a Dacia for this little road trip. Thanks in advance for your tips!
**Ouarzazate** – Arrival at 7:00 PM. Dinner in Ouarzazate, then drive to Ait Ben Haddou. **Night in Ait Ben Haddou** – To visit in Ait Ben Haddou: - The Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou - The Kasbah of Tifoultoute (on the way down to Ouarzazate) In Ouarzazate itself: - Visit the Kasbah Taourirt (gorgeous) 30 minutes south of Ouarzazate: - Fint Oasis Leaving Ouarzazate (eastbound): Route of the 1,000 Kasbahs - Kasbah Amridil (just before arriving in Skoura) - Skoura Palm Grove (a must-see) **Valley of the Roses** – Tamellalt / Boulmane Dadès – Night in Tamellalt? Boulmane Dadès? **Dadès Gorges**: 2–3 hour hike/walk (in the Valley of the Monkey Fingers) Then head toward the Todgha Gorges Arrival at the Todgha Gorges/Tinghir in the late afternoon (3-hour drive) **Visit Todgha Gorges**: no particular activity—it’s the road that’s stunning. **Tinghir** – Night in Tinghir? The next morning, head toward either: - Zagora (3h20 – 208 km) - Or M’Hamid (4h48 – 305 km) **Night in Zagora? M’Hamid?** **Drive to the Sahara Desert** – First night in the desert: camels, oasis, etc. Second night in the desert Return to Zagora or M’Hamid, then depending on arrival time, drive to Agdz? Taliouine, or Taroudant (a bit far) **Night in Agdz? Taliouine? Taroudant?** Then drive to Taghazout **Night in Taghazout** Drive to Essaouira **Visit Essaouira the next day** **Night in Essaouira** Return to Taghazout the following morning **Night in Taghazout** One extra day (buffer) **May 11th** – Drive to Agadir for morning flight departure
We’re planning to visit southern Morocco from April 30th to May 11th (10 full days). I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on the itinerary I’ve planned. We’ll be arriving in Ouarzazate and departing from Agadir. We’re thinking of renting a Dacia for this little road trip. Thanks in advance for your tips!
**Ouarzazate** – Arrival at 7:00 PM. Dinner in Ouarzazate, then drive to Ait Ben Haddou. **Night in Ait Ben Haddou** – To visit in Ait Ben Haddou: - The Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou - The Kasbah of Tifoultoute (on the way down to Ouarzazate) In Ouarzazate itself: - Visit the Kasbah Taourirt (gorgeous) 30 minutes south of Ouarzazate: - Fint Oasis Leaving Ouarzazate (eastbound): Route of the 1,000 Kasbahs - Kasbah Amridil (just before arriving in Skoura) - Skoura Palm Grove (a must-see) **Valley of the Roses** – Tamellalt / Boulmane Dadès – Night in Tamellalt? Boulmane Dadès? **Dadès Gorges**: 2–3 hour hike/walk (in the Valley of the Monkey Fingers) Then head toward the Todgha Gorges Arrival at the Todgha Gorges/Tinghir in the late afternoon (3-hour drive) **Visit Todgha Gorges**: no particular activity—it’s the road that’s stunning. **Tinghir** – Night in Tinghir? The next morning, head toward either: - Zagora (3h20 – 208 km) - Or M’Hamid (4h48 – 305 km) **Night in Zagora? M’Hamid?** **Drive to the Sahara Desert** – First night in the desert: camels, oasis, etc. Second night in the desert Return to Zagora or M’Hamid, then depending on arrival time, drive to Agdz? Taliouine, or Taroudant (a bit far) **Night in Agdz? Taliouine? Taroudant?** Then drive to Taghazout **Night in Taghazout** Drive to Essaouira **Visit Essaouira the next day** **Night in Essaouira** Return to Taghazout the following morning **Night in Taghazout** One extra day (buffer) **May 11th** – Drive to Agadir for morning flight departure
Hello,
For a week-long trip starting from Marrakech with a rental car, if you had to choose between these two loops, which one would you go for and why? 1) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Merzouga - Marrakech (map itinerary) 2) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Zagora - Marrakech (map itinerary)
Important info: this is for mid-February, so nights will be cold. For option 1, we’re thinking of staying in a "solid" hotel in Merzouga rather than camping in a tent without heating (our 10-year-old might not like that ^^). If you’ve got any experience to share about cold winter nights in the desert while camping, that’d be super helpful!
Thanks so much in advance!
For a week-long trip starting from Marrakech with a rental car, if you had to choose between these two loops, which one would you go for and why? 1) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Merzouga - Marrakech (map itinerary) 2) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Zagora - Marrakech (map itinerary)
Important info: this is for mid-February, so nights will be cold. For option 1, we’re thinking of staying in a "solid" hotel in Merzouga rather than camping in a tent without heating (our 10-year-old might not like that ^^). If you’ve got any experience to share about cold winter nights in the desert while camping, that’d be super helpful!
Thanks so much in advance!
Hello,
We’re about to book the Saharan Loops 4x4 tour with Fram for April.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this trip.
Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
Michel
Preamble:
.
This isn’t about drumming up business for a new professional venture—just sharing, under pressure from eager Vf members hungry for juicy anecdotes, my 10-day trip to Marrakech with 10 friends.
I’d mentioned during the planning discussion for this trip ((https://voyageforum.com/forum/questions-excursions-autour-marrakech-d10685703/)) that there wouldn’t be a travel journal... And since I’m a man of my word—but also stuck with a nasty calf muscle tear at the end of the trip that’s keeping me immobile for 15 days (more on that later)—I’ve got some time to dedicate to this. So, after this preamble, off we go to the Medina!
.
Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split
Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)
So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/
I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.
After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...



Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)
.Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split
Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)
So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/
I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.
After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...



Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)
Hi everyone,
I know there are some *reaaaal* Morocco experts here, so I’m giving it a shot.
Early June, we’re heading back to the country for the third time for a little week-long trip.
We’ll arrive and depart from Essaouira, where we’ll rent a car to drive south down to roughly Sidi Ifni.
The plan is to make short stops of 2-3 hours max, a mix of coastal spots and a bit inland.
We’re looking for natural, quiet places that feel untouched.
We loved Taghazout years ago and Larache two years back—just to give you an idea of our vibe.
What spots would you recommend along this route?
I’m tempted by Paradise Valley but worried it’ll be as crowded as Agadir. What do you think?
Any other valleys in the area worth the detour?
Thanks, and have a great weekend! 😊
Hi everyone, we’re renting a small car in Marrakech for an 8-day trip (Marrakech-Essaouira-Marrakech-Ouarzazate-Zagora-Marrakech). Is this doable?
Thanks for sharing your experiences...
Hi everyone! :)
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
And there you have it—promise made, promise kept. Here I go! I’m going to try and share our adventure under the Moroccan sun. I’ll do my best to capture how we felt during this trip. And I hope you’ll be kind to a newbie at this!
We planned this trip with the tips we got from this forum, so thank you to everyone who helped us prepare. Thanks to you, we had unforgettable moments.
Here’s our itinerary, which let us see the Atlas Mountains, the oases of the South, the sandy desert, and the Atlantic coast. We landed in Marrakech early in the morning, and our rental car agent was waiting for us at the airport. After sorting out the formalities, we left Marrakech heading toward Ouarzazate.

The heavy traffic in Marrakech quickly gave way to smooth driving. As soon as we left the city, it was calm. And right outside the city, we came across shepherds grazing their sheep by the roadside... It’s definitely a surprise at first! But yes... We’re in Morocco... No doubt about it... We’re in the thick of it! As we started gaining altitude, vendors waved at us, offering dried morels. At first, we weren’t sure what they were selling, but we stopped for tea on a terrace to admire the mountain scenery, and they offered us those famous morels again.


We continued our climb toward Tizi N Tichka... Gigantic valleys stretched out before us. With every turn, we discovered breathtaking landscapes.


Villages built into the hillsides blended into the earth. It was strikingly simple yet harmonious.

At the top of the pass, 2200m up, we stopped to soak in the moment, the fresh air, and the view.
And we carried on toward Ouarzazate. The road was under construction. Mechanical giants were tackling the mountain. But the mountain was enormous. We were impressed by the scale of the work.


Then, we left the main road to head left toward Telouet... It was stunning. The colors changed. Maybe we felt less overwhelmed by the imposing Atlas. Just a personal impression!


Right after passing through Telouet (maybe we’ll shock history buffs—we didn’t visit the kasbah), we went to see the salt mine. It was unexpected. Salt was everywhere. The stream water wound its way between salt crystals and waterfalls. It was really pretty. And then there was the cave. We had a guide for the visit. Stalactites and stalagmites crisscrossed here and there. At the back of the cave, we saw a small lake surrounded by crystals. It was beautiful.



We hit the road again. We drove through stunning landscapes: vast plains for grazing herds, rivers nestled deep in the valleys.

We proudly drove past the ksar Ait Benhaddou without stopping—just long enough to snap a quick photo and keep going so we’d arrive before nightfall.

We made a few small purchases in Ouarzazate and headed straight for the Skoura palm grove, where we’d booked three nights at the guesthouse Kasbah La Palmeraie. Mohamed, the owner, welcomed us warmly, and we shared tea with the family. We felt right at home. We were made to feel welcome.

Dinner was a hit—a real Moroccan meal, a sweet-and-savory dish with steamed vermicelli and chicken. Delicious! A great surprise for us—we’d never tried it before.

After such a long day that started so early, we were happy to crawl into bed. But we felt like the trip was off to the best possible start.
Until tomorrow, if you’d like!
We planned this trip with the tips we got from this forum, so thank you to everyone who helped us prepare. Thanks to you, we had unforgettable moments.
Here’s our itinerary, which let us see the Atlas Mountains, the oases of the South, the sandy desert, and the Atlantic coast. We landed in Marrakech early in the morning, and our rental car agent was waiting for us at the airport. After sorting out the formalities, we left Marrakech heading toward Ouarzazate.

The heavy traffic in Marrakech quickly gave way to smooth driving. As soon as we left the city, it was calm. And right outside the city, we came across shepherds grazing their sheep by the roadside... It’s definitely a surprise at first! But yes... We’re in Morocco... No doubt about it... We’re in the thick of it! As we started gaining altitude, vendors waved at us, offering dried morels. At first, we weren’t sure what they were selling, but we stopped for tea on a terrace to admire the mountain scenery, and they offered us those famous morels again.


We continued our climb toward Tizi N Tichka... Gigantic valleys stretched out before us. With every turn, we discovered breathtaking landscapes.


Villages built into the hillsides blended into the earth. It was strikingly simple yet harmonious.

At the top of the pass, 2200m up, we stopped to soak in the moment, the fresh air, and the view.

And we carried on toward Ouarzazate. The road was under construction. Mechanical giants were tackling the mountain. But the mountain was enormous. We were impressed by the scale of the work.


Then, we left the main road to head left toward Telouet... It was stunning. The colors changed. Maybe we felt less overwhelmed by the imposing Atlas. Just a personal impression!


Right after passing through Telouet (maybe we’ll shock history buffs—we didn’t visit the kasbah), we went to see the salt mine. It was unexpected. Salt was everywhere. The stream water wound its way between salt crystals and waterfalls. It was really pretty. And then there was the cave. We had a guide for the visit. Stalactites and stalagmites crisscrossed here and there. At the back of the cave, we saw a small lake surrounded by crystals. It was beautiful.



We hit the road again. We drove through stunning landscapes: vast plains for grazing herds, rivers nestled deep in the valleys.

We proudly drove past the ksar Ait Benhaddou without stopping—just long enough to snap a quick photo and keep going so we’d arrive before nightfall.

We made a few small purchases in Ouarzazate and headed straight for the Skoura palm grove, where we’d booked three nights at the guesthouse Kasbah La Palmeraie. Mohamed, the owner, welcomed us warmly, and we shared tea with the family. We felt right at home. We were made to feel welcome.

Dinner was a hit—a real Moroccan meal, a sweet-and-savory dish with steamed vermicelli and chicken. Delicious! A great surprise for us—we’d never tried it before.

After such a long day that started so early, we were happy to crawl into bed. But we felt like the trip was off to the best possible start.
Until tomorrow, if you’d like!
I just spent December and January in Morocco with my motorhome. I took the ferry from Algeciras to Tangier, then stayed a week in Marrakech, followed by a week at Aglou Plage. After that, I headed up into the mountains to Tafraout for two weeks, then back to the ocean in Sidi Ifni for another week. Next, I spent a week in the mountains near Agadir at Aourir, followed by another week by the water at Sidi Kouaki near Essaouira. Then, a week in Safi, the pottery city, before stopping at Dar Bouazza near Casablanca. Unfortunately, I had to rush back to Spain, where I live 4–5 months a year near Valencia, just 10 km from the disaster on November 29, 2024—my rented house was burgled. I still had Rabat and Tangier left to visit, but luckily, I was at the end of my trip. Morocco is an amazing place to explore!
Since campsites are often far from cities, I got around by bike. It wasn’t always super safe, but the roads are now really well-maintained. If you’re planning a trip to Morocco, my experience is fresh, so the tips are too!
Since campsites are often far from cities, I got around by bike. It wasn’t always super safe, but the roads are now really well-maintained. If you’re planning a trip to Morocco, my experience is fresh, so the tips are too!
I just got back from a trip to Morocco and I want to share my experience of the few days I spent in the Happy Valley (it’s also called the Ait Bouguemez Valley—same place!)
I’d contacted my guide Youssef, whose info I found here on VoyageForum.
I just got back from a trip to Morocco and I want to share my experience of the few days I spent in the Happy Valley (also called the Ait Bouguemez Valley—it’s the same place!)
I’d contacted my guide Youssef, whose details I found here on VoyageForum. Since I was coming from the south, I first needed to find the shared transport that would take me across the Atlas Mountains, from the Valley of Roses (near Boulmane Dadès) to the Happy Valley. I left from Kelaat M'Gouna, where I’d stayed the night before at the Hôtel du Grand Atlas, right next to the bus stop. Youssef kept me updated by phone, and after a bit of searching, I found Brahim’s little Mercedes bus, which leaves between 10 AM and 1 PM... depending on how many passengers there are and the season.
The journey was impressive. The road is still under construction, so the bus sometimes drives through the bottom of the gorges, even wading through water before climbing back up and tackling a winding dirt track that rises twice to 3,000 meters at the passes: Tizi n-Ait-Hamed and Tizi n-Ait-Imi. I arrived in Tabant as night was falling, and Youssef was waiting to take me to Gîte Timite, a traditional Amazigh house. It’s built from earth with flat rooftops. For two days, I was welcomed there, sharing meals with the family. The hospitality was truly warm.
We went on two beautiful hikes, sticking to the valley floor. The peaks were snow-covered, so it wasn’t the right season to climb Mount Mgoun, which rises to 4,000 meters.
On the first day, we hiked up the valley to see the dinosaur footprints (a protected site). The valley is lush and known for its apples and walnuts. We were there during apple-picking season—there were apples everywhere! We had lunch with a very friendly family in the village of Rbat, then after a steep climb, we descended into another part of the valley before heading back to Timite.
The second day, we went the other way, toward the west end of the valley. It was just as beautiful. We climbed a few hills overlooking the valley floor, discovering grain storage buildings, and had lunch with a family whose father makes charcoal.
In the evening, I was treated to couscous, which we shared with the whole family—men, women, and children (who are a bit like royalty) sitting on benches. We laughed a lot as I tried to say a few words in Tamazight, or when we made rhythmic music, clapping our hands and tapping on the table...
I really spent two days out of time, feeling very welcome, and slept well. The comfort isn’t amazing—I had a toilet but no shower. But that’s part of sharing the life of the people in the Happy Valley. Thanks to Youssef, Mina, and the kids! "Gite Timit Youssef" or
I’d contacted my guide Youssef, whose details I found here on VoyageForum. Since I was coming from the south, I first needed to find the shared transport that would take me across the Atlas Mountains, from the Valley of Roses (near Boulmane Dadès) to the Happy Valley. I left from Kelaat M'Gouna, where I’d stayed the night before at the Hôtel du Grand Atlas, right next to the bus stop. Youssef kept me updated by phone, and after a bit of searching, I found Brahim’s little Mercedes bus, which leaves between 10 AM and 1 PM... depending on how many passengers there are and the season.
The journey was impressive. The road is still under construction, so the bus sometimes drives through the bottom of the gorges, even wading through water before climbing back up and tackling a winding dirt track that rises twice to 3,000 meters at the passes: Tizi n-Ait-Hamed and Tizi n-Ait-Imi. I arrived in Tabant as night was falling, and Youssef was waiting to take me to Gîte Timite, a traditional Amazigh house. It’s built from earth with flat rooftops. For two days, I was welcomed there, sharing meals with the family. The hospitality was truly warm.
We went on two beautiful hikes, sticking to the valley floor. The peaks were snow-covered, so it wasn’t the right season to climb Mount Mgoun, which rises to 4,000 meters.
On the first day, we hiked up the valley to see the dinosaur footprints (a protected site). The valley is lush and known for its apples and walnuts. We were there during apple-picking season—there were apples everywhere! We had lunch with a very friendly family in the village of Rbat, then after a steep climb, we descended into another part of the valley before heading back to Timite.
The second day, we went the other way, toward the west end of the valley. It was just as beautiful. We climbed a few hills overlooking the valley floor, discovering grain storage buildings, and had lunch with a family whose father makes charcoal.
In the evening, I was treated to couscous, which we shared with the whole family—men, women, and children (who are a bit like royalty) sitting on benches. We laughed a lot as I tried to say a few words in Tamazight, or when we made rhythmic music, clapping our hands and tapping on the table...
I really spent two days out of time, feeling very welcome, and slept well. The comfort isn’t amazing—I had a toilet but no shower. But that’s part of sharing the life of the people in the Happy Valley. Thanks to Youssef, Mina, and the kids! "Gite Timit Youssef" or
Hi there!
I’m heading to Dakhla at the end of October for about two weeks as a backpacker.
Without renting a car or booking pricey excursions, what are the best ways to get around and explore?
I’ve heard that the small taxis only cover limited routes outside the city center, and the local buses might be tricky...
Thanks to anyone who knows the area and can share their tips for nature and culture in this up-and-coming destination!
Laurence
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a 7-day trip to Marrakech for a sports camp, and I’ll be traveling with just a standard carry-on backpack.
I’d love to hear your best tips and tricks: • What clothes are absolutely essential? • Any advice for managing the heat while traveling light? • Which accessories have been the most useful for you? • Mistakes to avoid on a first trip to Marrakech?
I’m also open to your recommendations for neighborhoods, restaurants, or activities not to miss during my free time.
Thanks in advance for your advice and experience! !
I’m planning a 7-day trip to Marrakech for a sports camp, and I’ll be traveling with just a standard carry-on backpack.
I’d love to hear your best tips and tricks: • What clothes are absolutely essential? • Any advice for managing the heat while traveling light? • Which accessories have been the most useful for you? • Mistakes to avoid on a first trip to Marrakech?
I’m also open to your recommendations for neighborhoods, restaurants, or activities not to miss during my free time.
Thanks in advance for your advice and experience! !
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
hi,
My wife and I want to take our first trip to Marrakech around 12/27 for 7 nights.
If you can help us find somewhere to stay that includes breakfast at a minimum.
From what I understand, the most authentic option might be a RIAD.
Our plan is to explore Marrakech.
Thanks for your help
Hi everyone,
As an anthropologist, I’m planning to move to Rabat in the coming months, partly to give my career a new sense of purpose.
In that context, do you happen to have any advice or names of organizations/associations you could share to help me shape my job-search strategy?
I’m also considering—if the opportunity arises—starting a training program or beginning a *Validation des Acquis de l’Expérience* (VAE) to become a specialized educator. Do you think it’s better to complete this program in Morocco or to obtain my VAE in France?
Looking forward to your feedback, and thanks in advance.
Best regards,
Ludivine
As an anthropologist, I’m planning to move to Rabat in the coming months, partly to give my career a new sense of purpose.
In that context, do you happen to have any advice or names of organizations/associations you could share to help me shape my job-search strategy?
I’m also considering—if the opportunity arises—starting a training program or beginning a *Validation des Acquis de l’Expérience* (VAE) to become a specialized educator. Do you think it’s better to complete this program in Morocco or to obtain my VAE in France?
Looking forward to your feedback, and thanks in advance.
Best regards,
Ludivine
Hello fellow adventurers! :)
I’m writing this little message to the community and adventurers because I’m thinking of heading to Morocco (a country I know well) for a week in February (around the 6th or 10th, for about a week) to climb Mount Toubkal in the Atlas Mountains.
I’m used to hiking and backpacking, but this would be my first 4,000m peak.
I think the mountain landscapes are even more stunning in winter.
I know it’s necessary to hire a guide for this ascent.
Has anyone here already climbed it in winter? If so, any feedback or tips?
Also, if anyone wants to join me on this adventure, I’d love the company! :)
The idea would be to rent a car (around 10–15 € per day) and do some other hikes in the Marrakech area too.
Don’t hesitate to get in touch!
antoine.petiard@gmail.com - 0650536769
Looking forward to it, see you soon!
Antoine :)
Hello,
I’m Belgian, 68 years old, a frequent solo traveler (Asia, North Africa, Europe).
I’m leaving from CHARLEROI (Belgium) for FES on November 20th and returning from AGADIR on December 6th.
Plan: sightseeing and walks.
Getting around by train, shared buses, and private taxis if needed.
Staying in riads except in Agadir (private room).
If someone genuine wants to join me on this trip, and/or meet up there for all or part of the journey, here’s my email: mcroemen@live.be or message me on this site.
Having some company and sharing the days would be a new experience.
Looking forward to meeting you (men or women; age doesn’t matter as long as you’re mobile).
Best regards,
MARIE
PS: Preferably someone who loves to marvel at things (I know what I’m talking about...lol)
Hi there,
In November-December, we’re planning a 6-week road trip in Morocco, spending two-thirds of the time south of the High Atlas and away from cities. We’ll be staying in gîtes, kasbahs, riads, and the like—no big hotels. Usually, we stay 1–2 nights in the same place.
Six weeks means we’ll need to do laundry at some point, so here’s our question: Can we generally count on finding a washing machine/dryer in these accommodations? Or should we look for a laundromat or *lavandería* (are there any?)?
Worst case, we’ll hand-wash with a tube of detergent, but we’d rather avoid that if possible…
If you’ve got experience with how laundry works in the area, we’d love your tips! Thanks everyone! !
In November-December, we’re planning a 6-week road trip in Morocco, spending two-thirds of the time south of the High Atlas and away from cities. We’ll be staying in gîtes, kasbahs, riads, and the like—no big hotels. Usually, we stay 1–2 nights in the same place.
Six weeks means we’ll need to do laundry at some point, so here’s our question: Can we generally count on finding a washing machine/dryer in these accommodations? Or should we look for a laundromat or *lavandería* (are there any?)?
Worst case, we’ll hand-wash with a tube of detergent, but we’d rather avoid that if possible…
If you’ve got experience with how laundry works in the area, we’d love your tips! Thanks everyone! !
Hi there!
I’m currently planning a 9-day route starting from Marrakech with my husband. We land on the morning of June 13th—so soon! 😊
And we’re flying back to France on June 21st at 9 PM!
We’ve rented two Royal Enfield 450s.
This is our first motorcycle trip in Morocco. I got my license two years ago with the dream of taking this kind of trip, and here we are! ✌️😍
In France, we usually ride between 300 to 400 km per day on roadsters. We’re not used to off-road tracks, so we’re looking for easy ones 😅—especially for me 😅.
For Morocco, I’ve planned stages of 200 to 300 km per day. Here’s the idea: Day 1 (departure at noon): Marrakech - Tizi n Test - Tafingoult (165 km - 4h15) Day 2: Tafingoult - Amzarkou - Telouet (200 km - 4h34) Day 3: Telouet - Ait Benhaddou - Ouarzazate - Boumalne (200 km - 3h30) (+ Vallée des Roses maybe) Day 4: Boumalne - Dades Gorges - Agoudal - Todra Gorges - Tinghir - Goulmima (291 km - 6h) Day 5: Goulmima - Midelt - Cirque Jaffar - Agoudim (280 km - 4h45) Day 6: Agoudim - Imilchil - Aghbala - El Ksiba (280 km - 4h45) Day 7: El Ksiba - La Cathédrale - Zaouiat Ahansal (212 km - 4h20) Day 8: Ahansal - Ouzoud Waterfalls via R 302 (188 km - 4h22) Day 9: Ouzoud - Marrakech (160 km - 2h43) End of the trip 😮.
What do you think?
We haven’t booked any hotels—is that a problem? We were thinking of deciding day by day based on our progress.
Can we take our helmets with us in the cabin, or should we pack them in the checked luggage surrounded by clothes to avoid damage?
I’d love any tips! 😊 Thanks!
In France, we usually ride between 300 to 400 km per day on roadsters. We’re not used to off-road tracks, so we’re looking for easy ones 😅—especially for me 😅.
For Morocco, I’ve planned stages of 200 to 300 km per day. Here’s the idea: Day 1 (departure at noon): Marrakech - Tizi n Test - Tafingoult (165 km - 4h15) Day 2: Tafingoult - Amzarkou - Telouet (200 km - 4h34) Day 3: Telouet - Ait Benhaddou - Ouarzazate - Boumalne (200 km - 3h30) (+ Vallée des Roses maybe) Day 4: Boumalne - Dades Gorges - Agoudal - Todra Gorges - Tinghir - Goulmima (291 km - 6h) Day 5: Goulmima - Midelt - Cirque Jaffar - Agoudim (280 km - 4h45) Day 6: Agoudim - Imilchil - Aghbala - El Ksiba (280 km - 4h45) Day 7: El Ksiba - La Cathédrale - Zaouiat Ahansal (212 km - 4h20) Day 8: Ahansal - Ouzoud Waterfalls via R 302 (188 km - 4h22) Day 9: Ouzoud - Marrakech (160 km - 2h43) End of the trip 😮.
What do you think?
We haven’t booked any hotels—is that a problem? We were thinking of deciding day by day based on our progress.
Can we take our helmets with us in the cabin, or should we pack them in the checked luggage surrounded by clothes to avoid damage?
I’d love any tips! 😊 Thanks!
Hi everyone!
I’m heading to Morocco for a full 8 days in early November—it’s my first time visiting. I’m traveling solo and arrive in Agadir on Sunday at 10 PM.
I plan to rent a car to get around.
I’m reaching out to get your advice so I can plan my trip as well as possible...
Here are my questions:
1 - Given my late arrival, is it better to stay overnight in Agadir for the first night? If so, do you have any hotel recommendations, and is transportation easy to arrange at that hour?
2 - Do you have any trusted rental car companies to recommend in Agadir?
3 - For 7 days, here’s the route I’ve planned: Agadir → Taroudant → Taliouine → Tafraoute → Tiznit → Agadir. Does this route seem good (not too short, not too long, any spots worth adding?), considering I enjoy driving?
4 - Should I book my accommodations in advance?
Thanks in advance for your recommendations! I hope these questions aren’t too repetitive compared to what’s already been asked on the forum.
Sébastien
hi everyone,
we’d love some info on year-long house rentals in Casa.
We’re looking for at least 4 bedrooms.
Thanks for your help!
Hi everyone,
After several trips and meetings in Morocco, I’d like to take the plunge and go work there.
I’m French and currently a Project Manager for an IT consulting firm. I’m primarily looking at Casablanca.
Could you share any advice or experiences? Is it better to go there and look for opportunities on the spot, and if so, who should I reach out to?
Alternatively, do you know of any French companies looking for someone with my profile for a position in Morocco?
I’m open to any great tips or potential contacts.
Thanks in advance, everyone!!
After several trips and meetings in Morocco, I’d like to take the plunge and go work there.
I’m French and currently a Project Manager for an IT consulting firm. I’m primarily looking at Casablanca.
Could you share any advice or experiences? Is it better to go there and look for opportunities on the spot, and if so, who should I reach out to?
Alternatively, do you know of any French companies looking for someone with my profile for a position in Morocco?
I’m open to any great tips or potential contacts.
Thanks in advance, everyone!!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you: - Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why? - Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies. - Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car? - Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years. Have a great evening, Roberto
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you: - Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why? - Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies. - Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car? - Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years. Have a great evening, Roberto
Hello to all Morocco lovers,
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
Fran
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
Fran
Hi there, if you're planning to rent a car to get around in Morocco, make sure to budget for "fines" even if you drive perfectly. For example, getting caught going 5 km/h over the speed limit 500 meters before you see the sign dropping the limit to 60 km/h—while being overtaken by a packed taxi with no seatbelts. Or, say, stopping at a stop sign for 3 seconds but not long enough, even though no helmetless motorcyclists were stopping either (yes, helmets are mandatory in Morocco)... Anyway, plan a "fine" budget for your Moroccan "vacation."
MOROCCO END 2024 / BEGINNING 2025
Off-season, I was lucky enough to negotiate hotel prices.
I should also mention that this was for a solo traveler until December 30th.
After that, there’ll be three of us!
Practical info.
Here’s all the info I gathered during my 3-month trip.
Cities: TANGIER / CHEFCHAOUEN / FES / MOULAY IDRISS, VOLUBILIS / AZROU / MIDELT /
ERRACHIDIA / RISSANI / MERZOUGA / TINGHIR / BOUMLANE DADES, AIT OUGLIF /
OUARZAZATE / TALIOUINE / TAROUDANT / TIZNIT / TAFRAOUT / SIDI IFNI, LEGZIRA /
AGADIR / ESSAOUIRA / MARRAKECH ///
From there, we’ll be three people. Cities: IMLIL / OUARZAZATE / AGDZ / ZAGORA / AIT BEN HADDOU / MARRAKECH / ESSAOUIRA / CASABLANCA. (Generally, I found that mattresses in Morocco were quite hard. My solution: I put two, even three folded blankets on the mattress to add some softness. Wi-Fi almost never works in the room.)
Tangier: Hôtel Fuentes Petit Socco, Old Medina +212 539 934 669 (For one person, end of October) Upon arrival, 19 € for a double room with a private bathroom. Breakfast included. Chefchaouen: Dar Besmellah Av Ibn Askar +212 539 986 489 (For one person, end of October). I don’t recommend it. A small, low-ceilinged room with a window facing a patio. Very dark and damp. Shared bathroom. 9 € Dar Bleu Pearl N° 4 Derb Benyaakoub +212 (0)539 88 28 86. Negotiated on-site to 130 MAD instead of 160 on Booking. Small room, furniture, Wi-Fi, private bathroom. Fes: Riad Alfredo or Riad Rocco—it’s the same place. It’s in a very narrow alley. N° 15 Derb Sidi Kjih or Qjih Talla Sagira +212 662 769 688 (see photos and virtual tour) Negotiated to 13 € on-site; on Booking, it was 16 €. Breakfast included. Atypical Anne room with private bathroom, Wi-Fi. The room is a bit dark. One of the best beds on my trip. Again, this was for a solo traveler off-season (end of October to end of December). Moulay Idriss: Gite El Menzeh (see the map) Negotiated on-site to 14 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 24 €. I also negotiated for dinner—very good and hearty—for 5 € (the manager wanted 20 €). I stayed in the large upstairs room with a double bed, window, and private bathroom, not the tiny windowless rooms downstairs. Azrou: Hôtel des Cèdres Place Mohamed V. (see the map and photos) Negotiated 13 € instead of 16 € on Booking for a room with two small beds and a private bathroom. This hotel is honestly run-down and not worth the price at all. The owner thinks it’s a very classy hotel because of its old reputation! Midelt: Chez Ali, city center (see map) Negotiated to 14 € instead of 17 € on Booking. Room with two beds, bathroom, window, small terrace, and Wi-Fi. Er Rachidia: Hôtel El Fekri. Rue Moulay Abdalah Ben Ali (see map and photos) Couldn’t negotiate on-site—14 €, but on Booking, it was 5 € more! Rissani: Hôtel Restaurant Panorama +212 615 978 445 Well, I’d say skip it. Rooms without windows and shared bathrooms. Or on the terrace, there’s a sort of space with a big bed and a small bed behind a locked iron door with a window and an external bathroom that’s also used by people eating on the terrace. If there are people on the terrace, forget about privacy! Not to mention the internet doesn’t work, and the bed is as hard as a straw mat. All that for 150 MAD—luckily, I didn’t book through Booking, or it would’ve been more expensive!!! I didn’t stay. This closet isn’t even worth 100 MAD—and even that’s too much! A little further on, I went to a hotel where no one spoke English or anything else. I got a large room with 3 beds, a private bathroom, and Wi-Fi for 100 MAD. Merzouga: Said’s apartment +212 618 659 264. No real address—it’s right next to a souvenir shop, far from the center. (see photos) 15 €. The apartment is large with two bedrooms and all the comforts. But for me, it was too far from the village. Chez Belkecem: Marked on GPS. I don’t have any coordinates (see photos). +212 666 911 732 Negotiated on-site to 13 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 2 € more. The room is decorated in a Berber style, with a private bathroom and a window to the outside. The worst breakfast I had in Morocco! Tinghir: Dar Al Medina Av Mohamed V (see map) Beautiful hotel negotiated to 13 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Breakfast included, Wi-Fi, room with a double bed and a single bed, window, and private bathroom. (Top floor) Boumlane Dades: Auberge Tamazirt (no contact) see GPS. Negotiated to 13 € with breakfast. It’s rustic, but I had a private bathroom, a large bed, Wi-Fi, a window, and a double bed. And the best part—the super-friendly owner gave me one of the gas heaters from the hallway. Aït Ouglif: Hôtel Aït Marghad. (See the map) Negotiated to 150 MAD instead of 240 MAD with breakfast. The place was half-closed because it was off-season. Room with a double bed on the ground floor, window, Wi-Fi, and bathroom. Heating provided—essential. The hassle was that there was almost no hot water. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Atlas 13 rue du marché +212 524 887 745 It’s on the pedestrian street. (See photos) Negotiated to 13 €. Old-fashioned room, double bed with a very hard mattress. Private bathroom, window, and Wi-Fi. Taliouine: Hôtel Le Safran. A 20-minute walk from the center—no other choice. Otherwise, there are a few local hotels, but even if I’m not always picky, there are limits. (See the map) Negotiated from 300 MAD to 200 MAD. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, window, king-size bed, private bathroom. The room is large (No. 11). (There’s a pool in the hotel.) Hôtel Atlas Bordeaux: +212 666 752 292 (next to the bus station) Usually, I’m not too picky, but honestly, skip this one. This place could be good because it’s central if: the cleaning was thorough. The bathrooms need to be redone... etc. No sheets—just a sort of blanket on the mattress and another to cover yourself. Obviously not clean. No towel. A bathroom that hasn’t been cleaned in way too long. In short, absolutely avoid. 120 MAD! Taroudant: Hôtel (mini) Atlas Bld Mansour Eddahbi (see map and photos) Double room with window, large bed, private bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great). A hotel that doesn’t look like much but is sparkling clean! 90 MAD for a single, 120 MAD for a double. Tiznit: Résidence Chem (see map) 100 MAD for a room with two single beds (very hard), window, private bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Clean but poorly maintained. Tafraout: Espace Tifawine (see the map). Hotel with a pool. Negotiated to 14 € on-site instead of 30 € on Booking. I could even choose my room. A large room with two beds—one big and one small. A large bathroom, a window, and Wi-Fi. Sidi Ifni: Hôtel Suerte Loca. (No contact, see GPS) I paid 140 MAD for a room in this dive—no negotiation possible. My room had a tiny terrace, the walls were repainted, but it’s super noisy (neighbors). Worse, when someone uses the water, there’s a loud machinery noise. That’s not all—the mattress is really worn out and sagging. The bathroom isn’t great. The Wi-Fi doesn’t work! This place still enjoys its old reputation, but it’s really run-down, and everything is old. The bedding is the worst I had in Morocco. Skip it. There’s much better for cheaper elsewhere! Hôtel La Belle Vue: Just before Suerte Loca +212 528 875 242 The reception staff was more than unfriendly. After seeing the rooms, I didn’t stay because the bedding would’ve been like sleeping on a yoga mat. Obviously not worth the 200 MAD asked for. Hôtel Aït Baamrane. Further down on the beach. Same price as above. The only difference is that everything is in good condition and comfortable, with a warm welcome.
Hôtel Safa: (see the map and photos.) On-site, no negotiation possible—200 MAD; on Booking, it was over 350 MAD. Huge room with all the luxury you could hope for. Breakfast included, large bay window, king-size bed, TV, Wi-Fi, furniture, and of course, a private bathroom. Agadir: Hôtel Kamal (see map) The only hotel I booked through Booking because there was a good discount. Except on-site, the hotel never wanted to give me the discount. At night, small insects that strongly resemble cockroaches—yet it’s high-end with doormen, etc. I contacted Booking, but nothing worked! I paid 250 MAD! Essaouira: Hôtel Elkasbah Souiria (See map and photo) Small room (No. 18) with a single bed and all the comforts. Private bathroom, window, Wi-Fi, and breakfast included (all-you-can-eat buffet). No negotiation possible—200 MAD. Chez Lina: Rue El Khemiset +212 658 042 562 (she speaks French) Large apartment with two bedrooms. Private bathroom on the landing. Wi-Fi. New, so not yet well set up. Far from the center. I paid 15 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Marrakech: Hôtel Atlas 50 rue Sidi Bouloukate +212 661 358 662 Tiny room on the ground floor with a shared bathroom. Wi-Fi, tiny window, very dark and noisy. 12 €
On December 31st, I’m joined by friends. The rooms will be for three people. Marrakech: Hôtel Agnaou 10 avenue or passage Moulay Rachid. +212 705 306 275. Negotiated on-site to 28 € for a room with a window to the outside and a private bathroom. Wi-Fi. Riad Todos: in the old medina +34 643 480 502 Watch out for extra taxes they might try to charge you. No heating. This place could be nice if better maintained. Bad smell of cat urine. Water leak in the bathroom. Wall crumbling from humidity. However, the reception staff is warm and tries to satisfy you. 120 MAD booked on Airbnb! Imlil: Auberge de la Vallée (see map) Large room with 4 beds. All comforts. Private bathroom, heating, Wi-Fi, and breakfast. Negotiated on-site to 300 MAD for three people. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Iazal: Av. Moulay Abdellah +212 524 886 187 (see photos) Very expensive for this hotel. Small room for 3 with a tiny, impractical bathroom. Heating, Wi-Fi, window. The showerhead is placed between the tiny sink and the toilet. The small space floods quickly. Far from the pedestrian center. No negotiation possible—350 MAD for three. Agdz: Guesthouse Le Chant des Palmiers. (See map) Very nice room—more like a small apartment with a fireplace corner, gas heating, private bathroom, Wi-Fi, windows, bedroom area plus two single beds. Breakfast included. Negotiated to 400 MAD for 3 people instead of 840 MAD on Booking. Zagora: Hôtel La Palmeraie. (See map) Room with bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great), heating, and window. Breakfast included. No negotiation—300 MAD (for 3). Aït Ben Haddou: Auberge La Barraka (see the map) Large, beautiful room with windows, Wi-Fi, heating, bathroom. Breakfast included. Pool. Negotiate a good price—but I didn’t note it down. (Around mid-January) Essaouira: El Kasbah Souiria. (See above) Room for three. Same benefits. No negotiation. 500 MAD. Casablanca: 664, Résidence Clémentine BD Mohamed V, Roches Noires. +33 6681 48002 Large, upscale apartment. Not far from Casa Voyageurs train station. Booked on Booking. 45 € (Last day, January 16th). Upon arrival, the price is always a few euros cheaper than on Booking—except in rare cases. Then, negotiation is possible or not! Prices vary depending on the season.
A few good places (for me) to eat.
Fes: Chez Hakim. (See map) Very good, hearty, and almost cheaper than anywhere else in the medina. Ouarzazate: Pasto wood-fired oven Place Al-Mouahidine +212 696 484 281 It had been a long time since I’d eaten such a good pizza (better than in most restaurants in France). At a price that beats all competition! Midelt: Berber Restaurant. (See map and photos) A dive that doesn’t look like much but is delicious at a more than affordable price. Marrakech: Dar EL WALIDIN Raid laahrouse, Rte Sidi Abdelaziz +212 653 493 637 Great selection, good food, and also cheap!
(At Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Under the warm welcome at restaurant « Chez Ali N° 65 », we got scammed out of 7 € when paying the bill! Experts at swindling.) Azrou: Snack La Forêt (see map) Again, good food at a low price. Merzouga: Snack Alafrah VOLUBILIS: The price has gone up to 100 MAD. Honestly, if you’re not an archaeology buff, it’s not worth it! BANKS: The best exchange rate I got was at BMCI. For ATMs, I paid the least fees at Banque Populaire. TRANSPORTATION:
Airport taxi Tangier to Petit Socco: 100 MAD Train: Fes to Meknès Al Amir: 35 MAD Casablanca to Airport: 60 MAD
Grand Taxis: (Shared taxi for 7 people that only leaves when full. I never waited more than 15 minutes to leave. There’s good turnover, and the vehicles are in good condition. They go faster than buses and are almost always cheaper. Prices are fixed, and you don’t pay the driver but the station chief!)
Meknès to Moulay Idriss: 12 MAD Moulay Idriss to Azrou: 35 MAD Midelt to Errachidia: 60 MAD Errachidia to Rissani: 40 MAD (I preferred this option rather than leaving at night or very early in the morning from Errachidia to Merzouga with Supratour, the only company that goes to Merzouga.) Rissani to Merzouga: 15 MAD Taliouine to Taroudant: 45 MAD (The bus is cheaper but takes longer) Taroudant to Inezgane: 35 MAD (Agadir suburb) I connected directly to Tiznit. Inezgane to Tiznit: 35 MAD Tiznit to Tafraout: 45 MAD (2-hour trip) Tiznit to Sidi Ifni: 35 MAD Agadir to Essaouira: 100 MAD Essaouira to Marrakech: 100 MAD Imlil to Marrakech: 35 MAD Grand taxi for three to Imlil: 220 MAD BUS: Tangier to Chefchaouen: 65 + 5 MAD baggage CTM Chefchaouen to Fes: 135 + 5 MAD CTM Azrou to Midelt: 50 MAD local bus Merzouga to Tinghir: 110 + 5 MAD Supratour Tinghir to Boumlane Dades: 30 + 5 MAD Supratour Boumlane Dades to Ouarzazate: 30 MAD minibus Ouarzazate to Taliouine: 60 MAD Satas company Sidi Ifni to Agadir: 95 + 5 MAD CTM Agadir to Essaouira: 70 MAD Trans Al Yamama Essaouira to Marrakech: 65 MAD Argana company Marrakech to Essaouira: 60 + 5 MAD Virago Mogador company Essaouira to Casablanca: 100 + 5 MAD
Sidi Ifni: To go to Legzira, there are green shared buses that leave every 2 hours for 6 MAD. Petit Taxis: You have to negotiate hard—the price can double. Example: In Fes, they asked me for 50 MAD from the bus station to the Blue Gate. By walking a bit further and being patient, I got a taxi for 20 MAD! Another example: From Agadir’s bus station, they asked for 40 MAD to go to Hôtel Kamal. In the end, I paid 15 MAD! Here’s all the practical info I gathered during my trip to Morocco from late October to mid-January. It’s up to you to see if it’s useful or not.

From there, we’ll be three people. Cities: IMLIL / OUARZAZATE / AGDZ / ZAGORA / AIT BEN HADDOU / MARRAKECH / ESSAOUIRA / CASABLANCA. (Generally, I found that mattresses in Morocco were quite hard. My solution: I put two, even three folded blankets on the mattress to add some softness. Wi-Fi almost never works in the room.)
Tangier: Hôtel Fuentes Petit Socco, Old Medina +212 539 934 669 (For one person, end of October) Upon arrival, 19 € for a double room with a private bathroom. Breakfast included. Chefchaouen: Dar Besmellah Av Ibn Askar +212 539 986 489 (For one person, end of October). I don’t recommend it. A small, low-ceilinged room with a window facing a patio. Very dark and damp. Shared bathroom. 9 € Dar Bleu Pearl N° 4 Derb Benyaakoub +212 (0)539 88 28 86. Negotiated on-site to 130 MAD instead of 160 on Booking. Small room, furniture, Wi-Fi, private bathroom. Fes: Riad Alfredo or Riad Rocco—it’s the same place. It’s in a very narrow alley. N° 15 Derb Sidi Kjih or Qjih Talla Sagira +212 662 769 688 (see photos and virtual tour) Negotiated to 13 € on-site; on Booking, it was 16 €. Breakfast included. Atypical Anne room with private bathroom, Wi-Fi. The room is a bit dark. One of the best beds on my trip. Again, this was for a solo traveler off-season (end of October to end of December). Moulay Idriss: Gite El Menzeh (see the map) Negotiated on-site to 14 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 24 €. I also negotiated for dinner—very good and hearty—for 5 € (the manager wanted 20 €). I stayed in the large upstairs room with a double bed, window, and private bathroom, not the tiny windowless rooms downstairs. Azrou: Hôtel des Cèdres Place Mohamed V. (see the map and photos) Negotiated 13 € instead of 16 € on Booking for a room with two small beds and a private bathroom. This hotel is honestly run-down and not worth the price at all. The owner thinks it’s a very classy hotel because of its old reputation! Midelt: Chez Ali, city center (see map) Negotiated to 14 € instead of 17 € on Booking. Room with two beds, bathroom, window, small terrace, and Wi-Fi. Er Rachidia: Hôtel El Fekri. Rue Moulay Abdalah Ben Ali (see map and photos) Couldn’t negotiate on-site—14 €, but on Booking, it was 5 € more! Rissani: Hôtel Restaurant Panorama +212 615 978 445 Well, I’d say skip it. Rooms without windows and shared bathrooms. Or on the terrace, there’s a sort of space with a big bed and a small bed behind a locked iron door with a window and an external bathroom that’s also used by people eating on the terrace. If there are people on the terrace, forget about privacy! Not to mention the internet doesn’t work, and the bed is as hard as a straw mat. All that for 150 MAD—luckily, I didn’t book through Booking, or it would’ve been more expensive!!! I didn’t stay. This closet isn’t even worth 100 MAD—and even that’s too much! A little further on, I went to a hotel where no one spoke English or anything else. I got a large room with 3 beds, a private bathroom, and Wi-Fi for 100 MAD. Merzouga: Said’s apartment +212 618 659 264. No real address—it’s right next to a souvenir shop, far from the center. (see photos) 15 €. The apartment is large with two bedrooms and all the comforts. But for me, it was too far from the village. Chez Belkecem: Marked on GPS. I don’t have any coordinates (see photos). +212 666 911 732 Negotiated on-site to 13 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 2 € more. The room is decorated in a Berber style, with a private bathroom and a window to the outside. The worst breakfast I had in Morocco! Tinghir: Dar Al Medina Av Mohamed V (see map) Beautiful hotel negotiated to 13 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Breakfast included, Wi-Fi, room with a double bed and a single bed, window, and private bathroom. (Top floor) Boumlane Dades: Auberge Tamazirt (no contact) see GPS. Negotiated to 13 € with breakfast. It’s rustic, but I had a private bathroom, a large bed, Wi-Fi, a window, and a double bed. And the best part—the super-friendly owner gave me one of the gas heaters from the hallway. Aït Ouglif: Hôtel Aït Marghad. (See the map) Negotiated to 150 MAD instead of 240 MAD with breakfast. The place was half-closed because it was off-season. Room with a double bed on the ground floor, window, Wi-Fi, and bathroom. Heating provided—essential. The hassle was that there was almost no hot water. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Atlas 13 rue du marché +212 524 887 745 It’s on the pedestrian street. (See photos) Negotiated to 13 €. Old-fashioned room, double bed with a very hard mattress. Private bathroom, window, and Wi-Fi. Taliouine: Hôtel Le Safran. A 20-minute walk from the center—no other choice. Otherwise, there are a few local hotels, but even if I’m not always picky, there are limits. (See the map) Negotiated from 300 MAD to 200 MAD. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, window, king-size bed, private bathroom. The room is large (No. 11). (There’s a pool in the hotel.) Hôtel Atlas Bordeaux: +212 666 752 292 (next to the bus station) Usually, I’m not too picky, but honestly, skip this one. This place could be good because it’s central if: the cleaning was thorough. The bathrooms need to be redone... etc. No sheets—just a sort of blanket on the mattress and another to cover yourself. Obviously not clean. No towel. A bathroom that hasn’t been cleaned in way too long. In short, absolutely avoid. 120 MAD! Taroudant: Hôtel (mini) Atlas Bld Mansour Eddahbi (see map and photos) Double room with window, large bed, private bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great). A hotel that doesn’t look like much but is sparkling clean! 90 MAD for a single, 120 MAD for a double. Tiznit: Résidence Chem (see map) 100 MAD for a room with two single beds (very hard), window, private bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Clean but poorly maintained. Tafraout: Espace Tifawine (see the map). Hotel with a pool. Negotiated to 14 € on-site instead of 30 € on Booking. I could even choose my room. A large room with two beds—one big and one small. A large bathroom, a window, and Wi-Fi. Sidi Ifni: Hôtel Suerte Loca. (No contact, see GPS) I paid 140 MAD for a room in this dive—no negotiation possible. My room had a tiny terrace, the walls were repainted, but it’s super noisy (neighbors). Worse, when someone uses the water, there’s a loud machinery noise. That’s not all—the mattress is really worn out and sagging. The bathroom isn’t great. The Wi-Fi doesn’t work! This place still enjoys its old reputation, but it’s really run-down, and everything is old. The bedding is the worst I had in Morocco. Skip it. There’s much better for cheaper elsewhere! Hôtel La Belle Vue: Just before Suerte Loca +212 528 875 242 The reception staff was more than unfriendly. After seeing the rooms, I didn’t stay because the bedding would’ve been like sleeping on a yoga mat. Obviously not worth the 200 MAD asked for. Hôtel Aït Baamrane. Further down on the beach. Same price as above. The only difference is that everything is in good condition and comfortable, with a warm welcome.
Hôtel Safa: (see the map and photos.) On-site, no negotiation possible—200 MAD; on Booking, it was over 350 MAD. Huge room with all the luxury you could hope for. Breakfast included, large bay window, king-size bed, TV, Wi-Fi, furniture, and of course, a private bathroom. Agadir: Hôtel Kamal (see map) The only hotel I booked through Booking because there was a good discount. Except on-site, the hotel never wanted to give me the discount. At night, small insects that strongly resemble cockroaches—yet it’s high-end with doormen, etc. I contacted Booking, but nothing worked! I paid 250 MAD! Essaouira: Hôtel Elkasbah Souiria (See map and photo) Small room (No. 18) with a single bed and all the comforts. Private bathroom, window, Wi-Fi, and breakfast included (all-you-can-eat buffet). No negotiation possible—200 MAD. Chez Lina: Rue El Khemiset +212 658 042 562 (she speaks French) Large apartment with two bedrooms. Private bathroom on the landing. Wi-Fi. New, so not yet well set up. Far from the center. I paid 15 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Marrakech: Hôtel Atlas 50 rue Sidi Bouloukate +212 661 358 662 Tiny room on the ground floor with a shared bathroom. Wi-Fi, tiny window, very dark and noisy. 12 €
On December 31st, I’m joined by friends. The rooms will be for three people. Marrakech: Hôtel Agnaou 10 avenue or passage Moulay Rachid. +212 705 306 275. Negotiated on-site to 28 € for a room with a window to the outside and a private bathroom. Wi-Fi. Riad Todos: in the old medina +34 643 480 502 Watch out for extra taxes they might try to charge you. No heating. This place could be nice if better maintained. Bad smell of cat urine. Water leak in the bathroom. Wall crumbling from humidity. However, the reception staff is warm and tries to satisfy you. 120 MAD booked on Airbnb! Imlil: Auberge de la Vallée (see map) Large room with 4 beds. All comforts. Private bathroom, heating, Wi-Fi, and breakfast. Negotiated on-site to 300 MAD for three people. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Iazal: Av. Moulay Abdellah +212 524 886 187 (see photos) Very expensive for this hotel. Small room for 3 with a tiny, impractical bathroom. Heating, Wi-Fi, window. The showerhead is placed between the tiny sink and the toilet. The small space floods quickly. Far from the pedestrian center. No negotiation possible—350 MAD for three. Agdz: Guesthouse Le Chant des Palmiers. (See map) Very nice room—more like a small apartment with a fireplace corner, gas heating, private bathroom, Wi-Fi, windows, bedroom area plus two single beds. Breakfast included. Negotiated to 400 MAD for 3 people instead of 840 MAD on Booking. Zagora: Hôtel La Palmeraie. (See map) Room with bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great), heating, and window. Breakfast included. No negotiation—300 MAD (for 3). Aït Ben Haddou: Auberge La Barraka (see the map) Large, beautiful room with windows, Wi-Fi, heating, bathroom. Breakfast included. Pool. Negotiate a good price—but I didn’t note it down. (Around mid-January) Essaouira: El Kasbah Souiria. (See above) Room for three. Same benefits. No negotiation. 500 MAD. Casablanca: 664, Résidence Clémentine BD Mohamed V, Roches Noires. +33 6681 48002 Large, upscale apartment. Not far from Casa Voyageurs train station. Booked on Booking. 45 € (Last day, January 16th). Upon arrival, the price is always a few euros cheaper than on Booking—except in rare cases. Then, negotiation is possible or not! Prices vary depending on the season.
A few good places (for me) to eat.
Fes: Chez Hakim. (See map) Very good, hearty, and almost cheaper than anywhere else in the medina. Ouarzazate: Pasto wood-fired oven Place Al-Mouahidine +212 696 484 281 It had been a long time since I’d eaten such a good pizza (better than in most restaurants in France). At a price that beats all competition! Midelt: Berber Restaurant. (See map and photos) A dive that doesn’t look like much but is delicious at a more than affordable price. Marrakech: Dar EL WALIDIN Raid laahrouse, Rte Sidi Abdelaziz +212 653 493 637 Great selection, good food, and also cheap!
(At Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Under the warm welcome at restaurant « Chez Ali N° 65 », we got scammed out of 7 € when paying the bill! Experts at swindling.) Azrou: Snack La Forêt (see map) Again, good food at a low price. Merzouga: Snack Alafrah VOLUBILIS: The price has gone up to 100 MAD. Honestly, if you’re not an archaeology buff, it’s not worth it! BANKS: The best exchange rate I got was at BMCI. For ATMs, I paid the least fees at Banque Populaire. TRANSPORTATION:
Airport taxi Tangier to Petit Socco: 100 MAD Train: Fes to Meknès Al Amir: 35 MAD Casablanca to Airport: 60 MAD
Grand Taxis: (Shared taxi for 7 people that only leaves when full. I never waited more than 15 minutes to leave. There’s good turnover, and the vehicles are in good condition. They go faster than buses and are almost always cheaper. Prices are fixed, and you don’t pay the driver but the station chief!)
Meknès to Moulay Idriss: 12 MAD Moulay Idriss to Azrou: 35 MAD Midelt to Errachidia: 60 MAD Errachidia to Rissani: 40 MAD (I preferred this option rather than leaving at night or very early in the morning from Errachidia to Merzouga with Supratour, the only company that goes to Merzouga.) Rissani to Merzouga: 15 MAD Taliouine to Taroudant: 45 MAD (The bus is cheaper but takes longer) Taroudant to Inezgane: 35 MAD (Agadir suburb) I connected directly to Tiznit. Inezgane to Tiznit: 35 MAD Tiznit to Tafraout: 45 MAD (2-hour trip) Tiznit to Sidi Ifni: 35 MAD Agadir to Essaouira: 100 MAD Essaouira to Marrakech: 100 MAD Imlil to Marrakech: 35 MAD Grand taxi for three to Imlil: 220 MAD BUS: Tangier to Chefchaouen: 65 + 5 MAD baggage CTM Chefchaouen to Fes: 135 + 5 MAD CTM Azrou to Midelt: 50 MAD local bus Merzouga to Tinghir: 110 + 5 MAD Supratour Tinghir to Boumlane Dades: 30 + 5 MAD Supratour Boumlane Dades to Ouarzazate: 30 MAD minibus Ouarzazate to Taliouine: 60 MAD Satas company Sidi Ifni to Agadir: 95 + 5 MAD CTM Agadir to Essaouira: 70 MAD Trans Al Yamama Essaouira to Marrakech: 65 MAD Argana company Marrakech to Essaouira: 60 + 5 MAD Virago Mogador company Essaouira to Casablanca: 100 + 5 MAD
Sidi Ifni: To go to Legzira, there are green shared buses that leave every 2 hours for 6 MAD. Petit Taxis: You have to negotiate hard—the price can double. Example: In Fes, they asked me for 50 MAD from the bus station to the Blue Gate. By walking a bit further and being patient, I got a taxi for 20 MAD! Another example: From Agadir’s bus station, they asked for 40 MAD to go to Hôtel Kamal. In the end, I paid 15 MAD! Here’s all the practical info I gathered during my trip to Morocco from late October to mid-January. It’s up to you to see if it’s useful or not.

Hi there,
Can you tell me if the road between Zagora and M'Gouna is easy or difficult for a 4x4? How much time and how many kilometers should I plan for? I’m traveling in May.
Thanks!
Hotel La suerte loca in Sidi Ifni.
Move along quickly!
LIAR AND DISHONEST.
Not to mention the state of the rooms. That’ll come later.
I booked three nights on-site without a bathroom in room (No. 16). I had called the day before to check availability. The next day, they told me I couldn’t stay in that room on the third night but offered to move me to another room—even more run-down than this one—and without a bathroom. They claimed there had been a mistake and the room was already booked, which is completely false. I’ve been traveling for 20 years and can spot hoteliers’ tricks. The woman running the place checked all her online sites and her schedule before confirming the room was available. She was sure. Especially since they display the booking schedule in front of each room to avoid mistakes. So, a pure lie. For what reason?
For me, two options: either take the run-down room for cheaper without a bathroom or leave. Great customer service. I found another hotel, Safa, a bit further away, at the same price with breakfast—100 times more luxurious and comfortable than this place. Or just down on the beach, Hotel Aït Baamrane, same price or even negotiable, and still much more comfortable.
When I left in the morning, they barely said goodbye, not a word of apology, no gesture to make up for kicking me out. NOTHING, NADA!
The woman running the place, with her fake friendliness and hypocrisy, only cares about one thing: money.
Otherwise, the place could be great if it were properly maintained. Instead of repainting the balconies, they should replace the mattresses, which are completely wrecked. The only good thing about this hotel is its location above the sea.
Otherwise, Room No. 16 was recently repainted. Every time someone uses the water, there’s a huge noise from the pipes and vibrations. The walls are paper-thin (figuratively speaking)—when neighbors talked or coughed, it was like they were in the room with me.
I had to wait to check in because of cleaning, but once inside, the bedside tables and the table were filthy (see photo). In the bathroom, there’s a stale smell of old urine and sewage due to the worn-out toilet pipes (see photo), with minimal lighting. The showerhead is disgustingly dirty. The gray duvet is dirty and very old, as are the blankets, which are dusty and grimy. The Wi-Fi worked in the room the first day but not the next.
And finally, the worst part: the mattress is completely wrecked and sagging. The springs dig into your body. Horrible! Instead of repainting, they’d do better to change the mattresses.
As for meals, the prices are outrageous. This hotel relies on its old popularity, but it’s not worth 190 dirhams for this room. I’d say it’s barely worth over 100 dirhams. Since I’ve been in Morocco, I’ve stayed in palaces for 130 dirhams with breakfast.
So, my advice: don’t trust the reviews and avoid this place. You’ll find much better at the same price, as mentioned above.


I booked three nights on-site without a bathroom in room (No. 16). I had called the day before to check availability. The next day, they told me I couldn’t stay in that room on the third night but offered to move me to another room—even more run-down than this one—and without a bathroom. They claimed there had been a mistake and the room was already booked, which is completely false. I’ve been traveling for 20 years and can spot hoteliers’ tricks. The woman running the place checked all her online sites and her schedule before confirming the room was available. She was sure. Especially since they display the booking schedule in front of each room to avoid mistakes. So, a pure lie. For what reason?
For me, two options: either take the run-down room for cheaper without a bathroom or leave. Great customer service. I found another hotel, Safa, a bit further away, at the same price with breakfast—100 times more luxurious and comfortable than this place. Or just down on the beach, Hotel Aït Baamrane, same price or even negotiable, and still much more comfortable.
When I left in the morning, they barely said goodbye, not a word of apology, no gesture to make up for kicking me out. NOTHING, NADA!
The woman running the place, with her fake friendliness and hypocrisy, only cares about one thing: money.
Otherwise, the place could be great if it were properly maintained. Instead of repainting the balconies, they should replace the mattresses, which are completely wrecked. The only good thing about this hotel is its location above the sea.
Otherwise, Room No. 16 was recently repainted. Every time someone uses the water, there’s a huge noise from the pipes and vibrations. The walls are paper-thin (figuratively speaking)—when neighbors talked or coughed, it was like they were in the room with me.
I had to wait to check in because of cleaning, but once inside, the bedside tables and the table were filthy (see photo). In the bathroom, there’s a stale smell of old urine and sewage due to the worn-out toilet pipes (see photo), with minimal lighting. The showerhead is disgustingly dirty. The gray duvet is dirty and very old, as are the blankets, which are dusty and grimy. The Wi-Fi worked in the room the first day but not the next.
And finally, the worst part: the mattress is completely wrecked and sagging. The springs dig into your body. Horrible! Instead of repainting, they’d do better to change the mattresses.
As for meals, the prices are outrageous. This hotel relies on its old popularity, but it’s not worth 190 dirhams for this room. I’d say it’s barely worth over 100 dirhams. Since I’ve been in Morocco, I’ve stayed in palaces for 130 dirhams with breakfast.
So, my advice: don’t trust the reviews and avoid this place. You’ll find much better at the same price, as mentioned above.

