This three-week trip to Namibia was a big first for us: - Visiting a country in winter, for someone who starts feeling comfortable at 25°C (77°F). - Camping, when we usually feel at home in a starred hotel. - Sleeping on the roof of a car—what an idea... when a comfy bed is waiting just a bit further. - Grocery shopping, cooking, doing the dishes... all the things we usually avoid to fully enjoy our vacation. - Washing up when and how we can, when we can’t imagine going a day without a shower. - Driving a big 4x4 on the left, with a manual transmission, when we usually opt for an automatic for more comfort.

Yep! You guessed it—we stepped way out of our comfort zone during this trip.

I had quite a few doubts while planning this adventure, but the more I read travel journals about Namibia, the more I wanted to go.

Personally, without this forum, I never would’ve dared to hit the Namibian roads in a 4x4. I was really anxious during the planning, so I want to thank everyone who contributed with their journals and forum discussions for helping me leave more peacefully.

At first, I wasn’t even considering sleeping in a tent. But after my husband’s persuasion—and my own curiosity to experience what I’d read in those travel journals—I gave in. So off we went in a double-cab Hilux with a rooftop tent.

And of course, let’s talk about me—the big cold-weather wimp. One of the biggest pre-trip challenges was choosing a sleeping bag. After a while, sleeping bags had no more secrets for me: temperature ratings (comfort, limit, extreme), shapes (mummy, rectangular), fillings (synthetic, down), compression rate, and weight... all these factors were a real puzzle. In the end, to make sure I wouldn’t be put off camping in winter (Australian winter, mind you), I went for a sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -10°C. And just to be *extra* sure I wouldn’t get cold, I bought a liner (never knew what that was before) in Thermolite, which boosts the sleeping bag’s temperature by 11°C. There are liners that add up to 15°C, but let’s not exaggerate—we’re not heading to the North Pole! My husband, on the other hand, got a sleeping bag with a -5°C comfort rating and a silk liner.

Was it enough? You’ll find out soon. In the meantime, another big thank you to everyone who helped me make this choice with their advice and experience.

Over a year in advance, we planned a three-week itinerary for our first trip to Namibia—classic route, nothing too out there. We chose to do the circuit clockwise because we wanted to finish on a high note in Etosha and its wildlife. They say it’s like Noah’s Ark out there! And why not, the cherry on top... some big cats.

We used Tourmaline’s services to book our accommodations and the 4x4.

Here’s our planned itinerary with campsites and lodgings—yes, there are a few solid roofs in there; we didn’t want to push it too far.

Day 1: Windhoek – Windhoek Gardens Guesthouse Day 2: Kalahari Anib Campsite Day 3: Namibrand Family Hideout Day 4: Sesriem Camp Day 5: Sesriem Camp Day 6: Rostock Ritz Camp Day 7: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 8: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 9: Spitzkoppe Camp Tented Day 10: Brandberg White Lady Campsite Day 11: Grootberg Lodge Day 12: Opuwo Country Campsite Day 13: Epupa Camp Day 14: Hobatere Lodge Day 15: Etosha Olifantsrus Camp Day 16: Etosha Okaukuejo Camp Day 17: Etosha Halali Camp Day 18: Etosha Namutoni Camp Day 19: Cheetah Eco Lodge Day 20: Windhoek – Londiningi B&B



Alright! Are you ready to follow this adventure with us in our Hilux?

April 11 – Day 1

It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather, A season that only exists in the southwest of America, I remember very well what I told you that morning A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago... We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...

Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!



To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"



As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...

An 80-Day Tour of Southern Africa

Back in South Africa

January 12, 2013, 5:30 AM, Flight BA043 London-Cape Town

Directly below, Windhoek glittered like a tangle of fairy lights still lit and tossed into a box.

The horizon, edged in purple, was setting up a backup fireworks display, and suddenly, like a cherry on the platter and with unbearable intensity, in less than two minutes the entire sun revealed a gray dam and then a vast, untouched massif.

A few more minutes and the glare to the east of the plane was total. In Africa, the sun is swift.

We still had a France to cross before landing, but it felt as if we were already there. To the west, the raking light revealed what looked like acne and long, swollen scars in a desert region that might be the Swartkloofberg. Further still, straight as far as the eye could see, the two parallel tracks of a dirt road.

At 11,500 meters altitude and 940 km/h, we had a sense of stillness until the Orange River appeared, an incongruous serpent, gray edged with green.

The first South African settlements were dotted with trees providing shade, then rivers highlighted by continuous lines of vegetation.

Water and shade that make life possible.

We’ll return here by the backroads.

Half an hour from Cape Town, the plane tilted toward the sea, crossing plantations (likely citrus) and then an explosion of cultivated greenery in circles on either side of an unruly river. Finally, the coastline was no longer just sand and water—a frothy hem, a suture?

A peninsula came into view, forming two magnificent bays, and... a flight attendant firmly instructed me to return to my seat: we’d arrived!

The Colors of Cape Town

The city was dressed up as I like them—deserted, fluid, free of its vendors.

In the parking lot of the endless beach next to the commercial port north of the city, about two hundred people were unloading their goods in front of their pickups or combis, none of which were from this century: mixed-race, ageless Black people, and white folks who looked like they’d stepped out of another era.

After a few minutes, intrigued, I played a game: first looking at the merchandise, then imagining who was selling it, and finally looking at who was actually manning the stall. Tall Black vendors were selling what they often sell in Europe—leather, sunglasses, watches; mixed-race folks offered discount bundles, and the tanned older white people seemed to have emptied their attics.

We left with an antique tin kettle for morning tea over an open fire, a pack of five exercise books (that’s 600 pages to fill), Bill Bryson’s earliest stories in English, some snoek rillettes (a local fish), and—never seen before—tuna biltong and snoek biltong.

In so-called advanced countries, Sunday is for sports: white cyclists dressed like pros sweating diligently, Black street vendors running in loops at red lights to sell trash bags that day; white golfers losing their balls, which a scantily clad Black man retrieves from the water; under the sails of kite surf boards, it’s all blondes, and in the foam, joyful splashes from a bunch of Black kids.

Searching for an unusual spot for lunch, we drove through the fishing port looking for a dive and, at the end of a dead-end road with no warning, we arrived at the Shimmy Beach Club—quite the program.

The place, open for just three weeks, aims to be ultra-trendy. You could be in San Francisco, Lisbon’s docks, or St. Barth. This time, the "visible" staff was diverse, but the clientele was exclusively white, except for one mixed-race couple.

For this Sunday lunch, the women had pulled out all the stops, and local starlets—who’d make ours look tame—were turning the terrace into a frenzy.

At Cape Town’s port, the girls have *port*. The trend seems to be crochet dresses over swimsuits.

For two hours, a team of employees watered and raked the sand, starting over when they finished. A child in a floaty pink dress and a gold headband, but a future adventurer, stepped onto the freshly raked artificial beach sand for the first time.

A lanky mixed-race man dragged a hose across the ground, followed by a white woman—enchanted?—who then started watering the sand herself, carelessly splashing the glass terrace her colleague had just swept. I suspect a tacit work arrangement to keep everyone employed.

A galleon packed with tourists (are there any in the hold? Does it take tourists to Robben Island?) left the port. A helicopter took off in its wake. Trawlers returned, cutting through a ballet of catamarans, their waterlines well above the water: a bad catch.

If there’s one country where you can’t pretend to ignore skin color, it’s this one. The question is in everyone’s mind, and here more than anywhere else, it’s a decisive economic and political factor.

Columbine of Brittany

200 km north of Cape Town and 9,000 km south of the Breton coast, but on the same cold ocean, we camped on the shore of the Columbine Cape Nature Reserve, sheltered by a rocky chaos that, at first light tomorrow, would transport us to Perros-Guirec.

Our first encounter with wild animals wouldn’t end well for them: it was crayfish season, and they were the size of lobsters at Lorient’s fish market. Bought for R60 (5.5 €) a pair from kids in Pater Noster, they’d end up between two rocks, over a fire. But first, we had to pair the Chenin blanc with some snoek biltong.

With no wood, I lit a fire at dawn with dried seaweed and kelp, as if petrified; it gave off a smell of court-bouillon and... tires. Two hundred fathoms away, on an outpost, an army of cormorants stood at attention, unmoved among the frolicking seals.

At the reserve’s exit, the guard spoke French; Patrick Mwanba had arrived from Congo three years earlier to study, but the cost of living here forced him to drop out. He’d like to return home because life is cheaper there, but the war made him hesitate.

Ding ding dong! Vroom! Arf arf, Woof! Buzz! (A night from hell!)

I’d long planned to visit Calvinia, the center of a region known for extensive sheep farming. An excellent provincial museum, run by an enthusiastic curator, kept us too late to start the drive north.

So we camped in a tiny, charming campsite set up in the garden of a house. A few trees, a patch of resilient grass, and a view of a pretty lit-up steeple—what else?

Well, it turned out to be a sound-and-light show, with the pretty steeple chiming the hours and half-hours. Then suddenly, we were in the VIP stands of the Karoo-Kalahari Truck Race: roaring trucks paraded under our canvas windows, and we realized we were on the main road through town. To top it off, we enjoyed an uninterrupted canine cacophony, from the *arf arf* of little dogs to the *woof* of a mastiff. Oh, and some mosquitoes—the first ones—insisted on keeping us company in the tent, and we hadn’t yet bought the arsenal to neutralize them.

I walked through Calvinia at night; the house gardens weren’t fenced, nor did they have the «Armed Response» signs so common in the country.

The Kalahari Trails

(No, no, I haven’t converted to hiking.)

North of Calvinia, in the south of the Northern Cape, small towns follow one another up to Upington, about a hundred kilometers apart—welcome havens. Between them, with no trees in sight, we stopped in the shade of a motionless cloud: the temperature exceeded 40°C in mid-January.

We were almost out of the High Karoo and into a region of pans drying up, until the first red dunes appeared, precursors of the Kalahari. In the sparse veld vegetation, gatherings of quiver trees in the kopjes, and a caravan of camels without a handler or packs, marching in perfect formation across a pan (no, I hadn’t overdone the Windhoek at the last stop, and no, I wasn’t dehydrated enough to hallucinate).

The historic part of these towns, European in style, was built on the same plans as those in the American Midwest or the Australian Outback: a grid of streets wide enough to turn a wagon pulled by eight pairs of oxen. The architecture was Dutch-inspired, tropicalized with awnings.

Then came more recent housing, functional in style, where the wealthier mixed-race people—who make up the majority of this state—lived, and further on, the township, an assemblage of corrugated iron and plastic, like everywhere else.

Orange, Right Bank

North of Augrabies Falls National Park, on the other side of the Orange River, stretches a rugged and wild territory the size of fifty Groix islands, crisscrossed by a few tracks—the Riemvasmaak.

The inhabitants were driven out half a century ago for a military base, and as soon as President Mandela was elected, he made it a symbol by allowing the exiled populations to return. Several ethnic groups live here on almost nothing, in government-built shacks.

A community camp is set up in a small cirque at the end of a canyon that, while not in the history books, offers a good descent. By mid-afternoon, the air was at 44°C, but luckily there was a spring... except it was a hot spring, with water at 38°C. And they haven’t invented a reversible spring yet. Once the birds and baboons had settled in, in absolute silence and far from any light pollution, we enjoyed the stars like nowhere else (well, that’s what they claim in the region).

The Orange didn’t choose the easy path: arriving from Lesotho, it was almost at the ocean. The terrain to the south and north of this massif seemed easier to cross. Was it to avoid the curse of the Okavango, whose waters disappear into the sands without ever seeing the sea, that it chose this rocky route, thinking that at least the granite wouldn’t steal its water?

I Love You, I Eat You

In the dry bed of the Auob, it lay panting, head raised, alert, between its paws but head-to-tail, a tawny springbok, motionless.

A few minutes earlier, their story had been written in a lightning-fast chase, captured in photos by the driver of the car that alerted us.

It would be a long time before it started eating at the groin without breaking its surveillance.

Earlier, there was a lion lounging in the shade and hundreds of antelopes: springboks and gemsboks (oryx) in herds, hartebeests and steenboks alone. Strange pairs, apart several times, formed by a springbok and a gemsbok.

A few solitary jackals moved slightly sideways, looking furtive. Ostriches, alone, looking a bit dazed.

It was a lucky morning in the Kgalagadi (KTP).

In and Out

Kgalagadi, Nossob Camp.

We were at the very end of the almost-empty camp, ten meters from the fence, whose structure wouldn’t resist an elephant (though there aren’t any here), but it was electrified.

At dusk, on the other side, ten meters away, three lions passed in a row, as if on parade, seemingly focused on their goal and indifferent to the camp, though they glanced at it.

A jackal had gotten into the camp and was trying to get out without success while scavenging. I offered it two pieces of snoek biltong (Don’t feed the animals!) from three meters away—it smelled strong and had bones (bones in biltong!). When it passed by again, it sniffed but didn’t dare approach. Curled up in the chair, motionless, by the faint moonlight, I finally saw it come closer, grab the nearest piece, and move ten meters away to enjoy it (how many jackals know the finer points of sea biltong?). A little reassured, it came back for the second piece.

Another Morning

By morning, the jackal was gone, but our luck hadn’t left us. Two cheetahs again, who found me in the way and slowly moved toward a calmer shadow. Enough birds of prey to form a squadron, but they’re solitary hunters. Two ostriches busy with their dozen unruly chicks. And while we’re at it, a group of four Kalahari lions, sprawled under a thorny bush. Lots of oryx crossing the dunes and herds of red hartebeest. Kori bustards and secretary birds.

It was the first time the Kgalagadi had spoiled us so much.

Hi everyone,

I’m heading off on a trip starting September 10th in Namibia and returning from Victoria Falls on October 7th, 2025.

I’m not quite set on the exact itinerary yet, but here’s what I love: - Nature - Culture - Hiking - Backpack-style trips, and for this one, mostly 4x4 (which seems essential) but still with plenty of walking - Simple places to stay, unless it’s THE experience not to miss or a little treat for myself

I’m pretty independent—I love traveling and meeting people, but I also like leaving room for discovery and spontaneity.

I’d love to find a few travel companions to share this experience with, so we could plan the main routes, must-see spots, and places to stay together.

I’ll refine my ideas over the next few weeks, and the plan will evolve based on who joins.

Even if you can’t come along, any tips or advice are more than welcome!

Looking forward to reading your thoughts and sharing about Namibia and Zimbabwe. Patricia

Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long. To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later. We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.

We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.

Good evening, I’m drawn to the siren call of Voy.. priv... offering a lovely Namibia itinerary, but I won’t hide that our last trip with this same "organization" left a bitter taste... though to be fair, the destination had lost all its charm—or maybe it was just too much so: Bali! I loved it in 2001, but when I went back in 2023, I hated it. Still, we let ourselves be convinced by an enticing price...

But that’s not the point. Now, we want to take this dream trip to Namibia. There are so many options, from the simplest to the most sophisticated: tourist buses, self-drive 4x4s, or private guides. Each has its pros and cons.

The bus: I hated Bali *because* of this—too many people, too touristy... On the other hand, you just let yourself be guided. No stress about driving.

4x4: Waking up in the middle of nature must be incredible—being self-sufficient with a travel journal, knowing every day is full of surprises. The downside? Only my partner drives. A former sales rep, he’s logged so many kilometers it’s wrecked his back...

With a guide: That’d be the dream... but we don’t have the budget.

So, I’m looking for a solution—contacts, advice—to make this trip match our tastes *and* our budget. For early April, of course!

Thanks for your input.

Hi there,

Here’s a quick summary of six trips across Southern Africa, covering South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and more. I traveled for a total of 23 months, over 100,000 km, and crossed 9 countries from South Africa to Tanzania. To do this, I bought an old Land Cruiser—a 1989 BJ 75 with a long chassis and a 3.4L turbo engine—which I converted into a bush camper set up for self-sufficiency in Africa: dual fuel tanks (235 L total) plus 2 x 20-liter jerry cans of diesel, 2 spare tires, a compressor, a toolbox with repair gear, a 50-liter water tank plus 2 x 30-liter and 2 x 10-liter jerry cans, a roof tent, multiple storage boxes, a sturdy roof rack, and even a paramotor. I also packed a first-aid kit and shipped the camper to South Africa by freight. My son joined me for part of the journey.

Key countries and highlights: South Africa in every direction, including its wildlife parks; in Namibia, the classics like Etosha, Fish River, Sossusvlei, Kaudum, but especially Damaraland and Kaokoland; in Botswana, a full loop of the Okavango, crossing the Makgadikgadi Pan, Moremi Park, the Linyanti River; and a tour of Zimbabwe with its national parks. During the last trip in 2020, due to COVID, we found refuge on a 250 km² Namibian farm with its own wildlife reserve. While crossing Damaraland and Kaokoland, we were completely self-sufficient, with supplies for over a month and 130 L of water.

In South Africa and Namibia, one issue that surprised us was the fences stretching for millions of kilometers along the tracks. Namibia is one and a half times the size of France but has a population of only about 2.5 million, mostly concentrated in a dozen small towns of 10,000 to 50,000 people—except for the capital, Windhoek (296,000). Paradoxically, compared to France, the space for freedom is extremely limited. Everything is private and requires payment. Even the Namib Desert is fenced... and you need a permit just to pick up a rock! For someone used to wild camping, it can get frustrating. Sometimes we ignored the rules, but the best solution is to ask a farmer (a real one, like a sheep or cattle rancher—not the ones with 3-meter electrified fences, which are lodges or private reserves) if you can camp on their land.

To truly enjoy freedom in Namibia, you need to venture into the northwest, along the Skeleton Coast, in Damaraland and Kaokoland. However, it’s essential to know your vehicle inside out, be a good mechanic, bring spare parts, and plan for potential breakdowns. Take care of your ride because a major issue out there can be a matter of survival. My motto: "Don’t break down, don’t break down, don’t break down..." Safari pros only venture into this region with two 4x4s. In Messum Crater, we met a couple waiting for rescue (thanks to a satellite device from their rental company) after their driveshaft broke. Keep in mind that in these areas, you’ll cover about 80 km in 8 hours.

Here are some of the issues we faced: a broken rear suspension leaf, several broken bolts on the front leaf springs, the spare tire mount breaking multiple times (replaced on the spot), a cracked water radiator in 1998 causing overheating and a seized valve stem in its guide, plus a bent rocker arm (field repair, valve adjustment, damaged head gasket, daily radiator refills, and a scratched cylinder—engine fully rebuilt upon return). Five roof rack mounts broke and were repaired at a technical high school in South Africa. The battery mount also broke (fixed with a steel plate found on the trail). The fuel filter clogged several times (changed or cleaned on the spot). A huge impact on the windshield from a piece of coal falling from a power plant supply truck (temporary repair with Araldite). The brake master cylinder failed in Marienfluss (repaired, seals replaced in Tsumeb). Multiple flat tires from acacia thorns. The rear door latch broke (homemade aluminum rod repair in Franschhoek). The voltmeter and ammeter failed (repaired on the spot). During the freight trip, despite locking the doors and having a partition between the front and back, someone managed to get in through the small side window, forced open the locks on two accessible storage boxes, and stole my tools (replaced later). A ball joint on the paramotor frame came loose mid-flight, damaging the wing and propeller (propeller shipped from France, homemade repair).

Health issues on the way to Tanzania: a painful sciatica and many sleepless nights (cortisone injection in Dodoma).

Kaokoland, Namibia—the northwest region: https://youtu.be/DzGepFsrnZs

Damaraland: https://youtu.be/DITQj8NvLZ4

Botswana: https://youtu.be/TEvDG0S62hg

Kaudom and Mohembo Parks: https://youtu.be/wq_Yf7jNLhw

Hi there, I’m finalizing the itinerary for my trip to Namibia in October and would love to get it validated by you, the experts. I’ll be traveling by 4x4 with a rooftop tent.

Here’s the itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Windhoek Night in REHOBOTH or nearby

Day 2: Rehoboth to Stampriet

Day 3: Road to Sesriem

Day 4: Head to Sossusvlei/Sesriem Canyon

Day 5: Road to Walvis Bay

Day 6: Day in Walvis Bay

Day 7: Head to Spitzkoppe

Day 8: Direction Cape Cross then Brandberg

Day 9: Brandberg, Twyfelfontein, Palmwag

Day 10: Palmwag

Day 11: Head to Etosha Day 12: Etosha

Day 13: Head to Waterberg after morning safari

Day 14: Full day at Waterberg

Day 15: Return to Windhoek for flight at 8:30 PM

What do you think? I’m open to all suggestions!

Thanks

Hi, I need to pay my local tour operator and I'm about to make an international transfer online. Have you heard of TransferWise, which claims to be safe and cheaper in fees? Otherwise, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance. Best regards

Hello everyone, We came back enchanted from our first trip to Namibia and we're already thinking of going back. We did the classics: Etosha, Twyfelfontein, Sossusvlei, Deadvlei... Our guide suggests doing the Caprivi Strip over 10 days, alternating 2 nights in a lodge and 2 nights in a tent. Given that we love landscapes but especially wildlife observation, I wonder if after spending 4 nights in Etosha and having visited Botswana twice, Caprivi offers different animals to see and if the wildlife is generally abundant. The videos I've seen online don't really captivate me. It seems quite similar to the Okavango Delta. What do you think? Are there other circuits we should prioritize? Both in our seventies, we prefer staying mainly in lodges. Thanks in advance to those who can give us advice

Here we go, the big day has finally arrived. A trip eagerly awaited by the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me). To keep it short, we left Nice and arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, then left again on the 21st—so four weeks later.

Hi there, Since April 2025, Namibia has been requiring a visa for many nationalities. I have a French passport and I’d like to know if the paid visa granted is for 60 or 90 days? I can’t seem to get a clear answer. Thanks! Bourlingueurs.com from Eswatini (Swaziland)

hi, we just got back from a 3,000 km trip in Namibia—Windhoek, Etosha, Kamanjab, Khorixas, Twyfelfontein, Spitzkoppe, Swakopmund, Sesriem, Maltahöhe, Windhoek. Just wanted to mention that most gas stations accept bank cards, but in Etosha Park, all three stations are closed, so make sure to fill up before entering the park.

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Namibia in 2026. I’m torn between visiting the Fish River Canyon and the Caprivi Strip / Victoria Falls. I’d also love your advice on the best time to travel for wildlife viewing and pleasant weather. I haven’t chosen a tour operator yet... since I’m traveling solo, I’d prefer a small-group escorted trip. Has anyone traveled with a local agency and what’s your feedback or advice? Thanks so much!

Hi everyone,

Just sharing our experience from our wonderful trip for two, which we’ve just returned from. We decided to get help with the bookings from the agency Tourmaline Safaris, and everything was perfectly organized without any extra costs for the reservations. We chose to alternate nights in rooftop tents, Camping2Go (fitted tents), and guesthouses.

Flight from Paris to Windhoek with a layover in Johannesburg. 4x4 rented from Safari Car Rental—flawless. We had an official translation of our driver’s licenses, but no one asked for them during the trip. Mariental: 1 night in Camping2Go (Anib Lodge) Sersiem: 1 night in a rooftop tent (Oshana Campsite) Solitaire: 1 night in Camping2Go (Nabis Desert Lodge) Swakopmund: 2 nights in a guesthouse (The Stiltz) Spitzkoppe: 1 night in Camping2Go Omaruru: 2 nights in a rooftop tent (Omandumba Cave Camp) Etosha East: 1 night in a rooftop tent (Etosha Safari Village) Etosha West: 2 nights in a rooftop tent (Onguma Tamboti)—game drive and morning walk with them Okahandja: 1 night in Camping2Go Windhoek: 1 night at Londiningi Guesthouse Then... flight to Victoria Falls and transfer by car to Kasane for 2 nights (Water Lily Lodge), followed by a transfer to Victoria Falls for 2 nights at Phe Zulu. All transfers were arranged by Tourmaline, and they were all perfectly on time.

No logistical issues with Tourmaline Safaris, and given that our initial flight was delayed by a day, my checked luggage arrived a week late (Tourmaline arranged for the luggage to be transferred by taxi to Omaruru), and our initial Windhoek-Kasane flight was canceled by Air Botswana without explanation, we were really relieved to have the agency’s local contact to handle these unexpected issues! Delayed luggage seems to be common, but the agency had warned us, so we packed our carry-ons accordingly.

It was very cold at night (June), especially in Omaruru, but luckily we were prepared. Since it had rained a lot this season, Victoria Falls was flowing heavily! So much so that the water mist prevented us from seeing the eastern part of the falls. But a short helicopter tour gave us a better view. Be aware that the entrance fees for the falls are high (50 dollars per person) and only grant one entry—you can’t come in the morning and return in the late afternoon. We stayed from 6 AM to 3 PM in the park, taking breaks at the cafeteria, to see the falls at sunrise, at 11 AM (when the mist partially lifts), and at 3 PM (not much difference from the 11 AM view).

That’s it! A magnificent trip that left us with wonderful memories. Nothing disappointed us.

If you’d like more details, feel free to ask!

I'm looking for a local guide to visit a Himba village near Opuwo in a respectful way. There’ll be two of us (my wife and I) with a car starting from Opuwo. If anyone has a contact—or even better, several contacts—for local guides to arrange this visit, thanks a million! Bernard

Hi, I'm planning to reach Epupa Falls from Purros via Orupembe D3707 or another route (?) and the Hartmann Valley. Is it possible to get to Epupa from Etambura camp with just one 4x4? Thanks in advance

hi

Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls. I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions. I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali. Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha. I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4. Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?

Thanks for your tips and feedback!

Rachel

I'm craving adventure and looking for a travel partner (any gender) for a destination that's as far off the beaten path as possible. On my radar: China, Costa Rica, Namibia, Bolivia, Polynesia... and more! Ideally, we'd leave in June or, at the latest, July. Minimum of 2–3 weeks. A mix of sightseeing, sports activities, and meeting locals. Laurent, 55 years old

Hi everyone,

I’m finalizing my trip starting from Namibia. When I arrive in Divundu, I’d like to head straight to the Khwai area early in the morning to one of the campsites in the Khwai Development Trust. Is the drive doable with a good 4x4 in a day? We’ll spend 2 nights in Khwai, then 2 or maybe 3 nights in the Moremi area (Third Bridge/Xakanaxa/Mboma) before heading back to Maun to wrap up our journey. Is that too much time to spend in each place?

We’d also like to do one or two boat excursions in the delta. Any suggestions for the best options and operators?

Thanks in advance for your tips and advice! Best, Patrick

hi everyone, we’re itching to see the Namib Desert again, and looking at the Tracks4Africa map I notice there’s a track that reaches Saddle Hill Ghost Town and seems to be allowed. Has anyone done it? We’re used to dunes—on our first visit we went from Walvis Bay to Sandwich Harbour with our rental 4x4 but followed a licensed guide. Thanks for your replies! Brigitte

Hi everyone, We’re seriously considering a two-week trip in August 2026 with our kids, who’ll be 11 and 10 years old. That’s where we’re torn on the destination. For those who’ve been to both, could you share the main differences? I get the impression that in Botswana, the landscapes are a bit samey everywhere, while Namibia offers more diversity? We’re looking for an "off-the-beaten-path" adventure: safaris, meeting local communities, etc., and not too many touristy spots. Thanks for your help! Olivia

Hi there, We’re planning a trip to Namibia in the summer of 2026 and want to rent a 4x4 with a roof-top tent. After reading a lot of posts on the topic, I’m still not sure which rental companies are truly reliable these days... We found a vehicle at a reasonable price from Africa Camper, but the online reviews are mixed. Has anyone had a good or bad experience with this company? Thanks so much! Martine

Hi, recently Namibia introduced a visa requirement for French travelers (among others). I’ve seen there’s a dedicated website for obtaining it. But my question is about getting it on arrival at Windhoek Airport. I’d love any info on this: how fast it is, cost, documents needed, etc. Thanks for your feedback! Happy travels to you all

Hi there, Could anyone give me some info about the international driver's permit in Namibia? Is it mandatory to rent a 4x4 with or without a roof tent, or is an English translation of my French license enough to get around the whole country? Thanks in advance for your replies!

Hi everyone. I’m heading to Namibia in October and slowly planning my trip. I’ll be spending 2.5 days in the park and was wondering how to organize things to get the most out of Etosha. Routes, wildlife spots, campsites... knowing I’ll be in a 4x4 with a rooftop tent. Thanks in advance for your great tips!

Hi there, we’re planning a trip to Namibia this summer and we’d love to know if it’s possible to get around without our own vehicle? Thanks.

Hi there, I’m sharing my itinerary for your expert eyes and feedback. Quick question: Is it worth cutting a few nights to visit Epupa Falls? Would it be interesting to stop by Aus before Sesriem? Thanks everyone!

Day 1: Windhoek Day 2: Mariental Day 3: Sesriem Day 4: Sesriem Day 5: Gecko Camp Day 6: Walvis Bay / Swakopmund Day 7: Walvis Bay / Swakopmund Day 8: Spitzkoppe Day 9: Twyfelfontein Day 10: Twyfelfontein Day 11: Grootberg Day 12: Grootberg Day 13: Etosha West Day 14: Etosha West Day 15: Etosha East Day 16: Etosha East Day 17: Weaver’s Rock Guest Farm (CCF & Waterberg, rhinos) Day 18: Weaver’s Rock Guest Farm Day 19: Okonjima Day 20: Windhoek – evening departure

Hi everyone, I’m planning to do the Sesriem–Etosha trip via Windhoek in a single day. I know... it’s really long... I plan to leave early in the morning... before 8 a.m. at any rate... I know the Sesriem–Windhoek stretch via Solitaire is entirely on dirt roads... What do you think? Have a great day

Hi there, From Windhoek to Namaqualand, is it possible to take a route further east than the B1 national road, and are there any points of interest along that way? Thanks in advance.