Hi there,

Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.

It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected. Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel. I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability. So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.

I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:

Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras

Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya

Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat

Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott

Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou

To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog: From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations

Happy reading, and safe travels!

A few years ago, I went with a group of friends to lend a hand at a small rural school near Thiès, Senegal. It was a relaxed but hardworking atmosphere—hands in the mortar, laughter, exchanges, and everything that a COOPERATION project can bring. Today, the little project is flying on its own.

Wanting to explore Senegal’s riches, we set off for some tourism in the Siné Saloum. One girl in our group fell ill (a malaria attack), and we decided to take her to see a doctor at a large tourist complex nearby. Despite her condition, we had to "show our credentials" (if I may say so) just to get in. She was treated and has been fine since.

This "stop" at a Club Med-style resort with a Teutonic twist—resembling Le Grau-du-Roi but fancier—was a horror show for us: pools, massive artificial basins dyed blue, pink, or green (!!!!), animators shouting around wet T-shirt contests or coconut tree climbing, and sunburned (or sun-pinked) *toubabs*. The entire hotel was surrounded by a huge wall, behind which a small souvenir-seller slum had sprung up, worthy of Dakar’s outer neighborhoods. On leaving, we saw a minibus of guests returning from an "excursion," loaded with masks, fabrics, and djembés—African souvenirs? Maybe those will be *theirs*? What impression did the kids clustered at the hotel gates get? What about the Black servers in "traditional African costumes," serving cocktails and ice cream nonstop?

For me, who experienced Africa very young and in the bush, this remains a haunting image.

On VF, this kind of vacation doesn’t seem to be the norm among users, and that’s exactly why I signed up.

Have you ever experienced this kind of interstellar travel? Do you understand the Martians? Are their motivations peaceful?

Hi, I’ve read on several forums and blogs that to enter Senegal by motorcycle, some say you need a CPD, others say an ATA carnet, and others say no carnet at all. What’s the real deal? My bike is over 10 years old. Thanks

Hey fellow travelers!

So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up: "If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.

To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.

This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.

The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka. Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.

As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.

I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.

Hugs 😘

I haven’t been back to Senegal or Mauritania in a good fifteen years, so I imagine a lot has changed.

My trip starts in Dakar. I’ll head up to Saint-Louis, then cross into Mauritania. Drive to Nouakchott, take the track along the beach and Banc d'Arguin, then Nouadhibou and on to Morocco.

I’m looking for some info on administrative formalities, permits, visas, etc., regarding:

- Crossing the Senegal-Mauritania border at Diama (I’m in a car) - Crossing Banc d'Arguin - Exiting Mauritania at Guerguerat and entering Morocco

Thanks for any tips...

Hello, In late February, a small group of us who are passionate about botany would like to walk through a baobab forest. However, we’ve read that more and more baobab forests in Senegal have been declassified. Which forests (aside from the treetop adventure park) are still the most interesting to visit? Is it still possible to see landscapes of baobabs (not just one or two isolated trees)?

Thank you, and have a great evening! Christophe

Hi there, We’re heading to Senegal for the first time at the end of February as a group of four, and we’re eager to make the most of our 7 days. So, not much (if any) downtime—just a heads-up! ;) For such a short trip, we’ve had to make some tough choices. We’ve decided to skip Lompoul due to the 24/7 noise and light pollution from the mine. Casamance is too far for this time around. We love animals and birds (and it seems late February/early March is still a good time to spot migratory birds). We’re planning to rent a car. Putting all these factors together, here’s the rough itinerary we’ve come up with: - Day 1: Dakar, Gorée - Day 2: Kayar, Saint-Louis, Lac de Barbarie - Day 3: Makhana, Djoudj Bird Sanctuary, Lac de Barbarie - Day 4: Drive to Somone - Day 5: Bandia, Somone - Day 6: Saloum Delta - Day 7: Saloum Delta - Day 8: Return to Dakar Airport

What do you think? How much extra does it cost, roughly, to hire a guide compared to just renting a car on our own? Thanks so much for your insights—we really appreciate it! Christophe

Hi there, We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025. We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis. That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise. Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off. Thanks so much for your tips! Edith

Hi

Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?

Thanks in advance

Hi, With a camper van that's less than 3 years old, we're heading from France to Senegal via Mauritania. Our comprehensive insurance covers us for Morocco. However: For Mauritania: - How can we get insurance for 1 week in Mauritania? - Where and which reliable agency should we contact in Morocco? (Not the "guide" at the border) - Darkhla or elsewhere? Please, do you have any contact details? - Is it possible to take out comprehensive insurance, not just third-party liability? - Please, do you have any idea of the rates? For Senegal: - Can we take out comprehensive insurance in Diama or St Louis for 3 weeks or 1 month? - Which reliable agency or company? Please, do you have any contact details? - Please, do you have any idea of the rates? Thanks so much

Hi everyone, I’m 66 and just discovered solo travel in Uzbekistan—I loved it! So I’ve decided to explore Africa, starting with Senegal. I’m just beginning my research, but if anyone can give me advice on which month to go, what to see, and whether this destination is safe—or maybe suggest another African country—I’d really appreciate your tips!

Hello everyone! 👋

First of all, thank you for accepting us into the group. 😊

My name is Gérard, I’m a 77-year-old retiree, and I have a charming young wife of 70 and a sweet little Biewer dog celebrating his first birthday. 🎂🎉

The three of us are planning to leave from Cannes in our motorhome and head to Dakar.

Personally, I know this route very well, having done it three times in a 4x4, the last trip being in 2016.

Regarding Western Sahara, I know it’s not particularly recommended to cross it right now, but I haven’t heard any bad news about it yet.

As for crossing the "no man’s land," I remember it being a very difficult track, impassable with a motorhome. I’ve heard that they’ve recently improved the track and that it might now be possible to cross those 4 km with a motorhome (?)

Actually, I’m reaching out to experienced travelers who could give me their thoughts on crossing at the end of 2025. 🙏

By the way, if other motorhome travelers have the same plan, maybe we could discuss it together? 🤝

As for Mauritania, I know it’s a long stretch of tarmac, and from what I remember—aside from the "Gare du Nord" stop to refuel and enjoy a good tea—you have to switch to "survival mode."

That’s all for my little chat! I hope to gather some useful information.

Thank you all for taking the time to read this, and I wish you a great 14th of July.

Gérard, Martine, and Bahia 🐾

Hello!



I invite you to share our wonderful discovery of Saint-Louis and its surroundings: Djoudj Park and the Langue de Barbarie... Daily life, heritage, landscapes, and wildlife (birds)...

We stayed in Senegal for 10 days in April/May 2018, specifically in Saint-Louis, Senegal, since we were there for the Jazz Festival held every year. But we took the opportunity to explore this country we didn’t know!

In this travel journal, you’ll find: - A short stop in Gorée, which we visited before heading to Saint-Louis - The different faces of Saint-Louis, especially the vibrant fishermen’s district - Djoudj Park, with its many birds - The Langue de Barbarie ... and much more!

Before going to Senegal, I did some research on this forum and others. So many strong opinions about Senegal—you either love it or hate it! If it hadn’t been for the festival, we might not have gone... What a shame that would’ve been, because we loved it!

Of course, I saw poverty, idleness, and litter, especially plastic bags—a global scourge. A bit of harassment from street vendors, especially at first when you don’t know how to deflect it and accidentally encourage it. The privileges of a social class and inequalities, though that’s something you encounter in many poor countries, not just in Africa.

But when I close my eyes and remember our trip, what stays with me is the youth, the beauty of so many boys and girls, the elegance of the women, and the sparkle in their eyes and smiles. The light and colors, the smell of grilled fish, the taste of freshly roasted peanuts and baobab fruit. The honking horns, the call of the muezzins, the music, the bursts of laughter.







To be continued...