Hello everyone,
we’re planning a trip to Vietnam at the end of June 2026 for at least two weeks.
Our goal is to avoid rushing around too much and take our time, focusing on nature, hiking, and getting to know the locals.
Here’s my first draft itinerary:
Arrival and departure from Hanoi
Sapa and its surrounding area
Tam Coc – the "land Halong Bay"
and Ninh Binh...
Halong Bay (maritime)
Cat Ba Island...
I’d love to hear your thoughts, advice, and feedback.
Looking forward to reading your replies.
Cédric
Hello.
In 1996, we crossed Vietnam from Saigon to Hanoi by motorbike—Minsk bikes we bought in Saigon. I haven’t been back since, and it seems like a lot has changed.
- We’re heading to the south (well, the north and center) with the family in July-August (3 people).
- Is the road network more developed now? Back then, there was only National Route 1 from south to north. I’m thinking of renting a car this time (no motorbike with the family—though in ’96, they had a Jawa sidecar for sale, and we hesitated… maybe it’s for the best).
- Is Halong Bay really something to avoid because of overtourism? Even back then, it was pretty crowded. Is there a less touristy alternative?
- We’ll be traveling from Hanoi down to Danang (the only city we didn’t stop in back in ’96). Even though it’s a bit overhyped in a Chinese-tourist kind of way (from what I’ve read), we’re only going for the beach—pure relaxation for 7 days. The beaches are stunning, and I know the South China Sea is warm like coffee.
- Then, we’ll visit Hoi An, where I stopped in ’96. It was already popular with backpackers back then, but no glowing boats or all the touristy fuss!
- After that, Hue, where I have great memories—it’s a beautiful city.
- And also the nature around Ninh Binh, followed by 2-3 days in Hanoi.
That’s the plan. I’d love to hear any tips to avoid mass tourism, and if anyone’s done this before: - Is it possible to rent a car in Danang and drop it off in Hanoi?
Thanks, and long live the Nam! !
- We’re heading to the south (well, the north and center) with the family in July-August (3 people).
- Is the road network more developed now? Back then, there was only National Route 1 from south to north. I’m thinking of renting a car this time (no motorbike with the family—though in ’96, they had a Jawa sidecar for sale, and we hesitated… maybe it’s for the best).
- Is Halong Bay really something to avoid because of overtourism? Even back then, it was pretty crowded. Is there a less touristy alternative?
- We’ll be traveling from Hanoi down to Danang (the only city we didn’t stop in back in ’96). Even though it’s a bit overhyped in a Chinese-tourist kind of way (from what I’ve read), we’re only going for the beach—pure relaxation for 7 days. The beaches are stunning, and I know the South China Sea is warm like coffee.
- Then, we’ll visit Hoi An, where I stopped in ’96. It was already popular with backpackers back then, but no glowing boats or all the touristy fuss!
- After that, Hue, where I have great memories—it’s a beautiful city.
- And also the nature around Ninh Binh, followed by 2-3 days in Hanoi.
That’s the plan. I’d love to hear any tips to avoid mass tourism, and if anyone’s done this before: - Is it possible to rent a car in Danang and drop it off in Hanoi?
Thanks, and long live the Nam! !
DANANG
A big city in the midst of an economic boom. The setting is stunning, with its large bay, the Son Tra Peninsula, and the Annamite Mountains on the horizon.
Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?
Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?
What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.
The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.
HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.
WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.
For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.
Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.
Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).
WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.
For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).
At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.
WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.
THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.
MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.
CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.
To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!
Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.
Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.
Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).
When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.
Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?
Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?
What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.
The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.
HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.
WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.
For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.
Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.
Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).
WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.
For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).
At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.
WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.
THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.
MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.
CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.
To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!
Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.
Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.
Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).
When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.
Hi, just a quick note mainly for Samsong, even if he’s still giving me the silent treatment.
I’ve been in Nan since yesterday and... I love it! So thanks, Thierry. It’s exactly the kind of place I’d been dreaming of... Even if communication is a bit tough, it’s not impossible. They don’t even know the most basic English words! Everyone laughs and they’re the first to pull out their phones to... translate. They’re even quicker on the uptake than I am.
And then there’s the time I say Nan (pronounced "Nane"). They don’t understand me. After a while (sometimes a long one), they reply: "Ah, Nan?" (pronounced "Nane") 😵🤳😃
The town is exactly how you described it back in 2022. Though I’m surprised to find so many trendy, slightly intellectual "Cafés." Apparently, coffee—excellent everywhere—is king in Nan. It feels like a university town. And it seems pretty lively at night! But for now, I’m going to bed early. I caught a nasty cold, which didn’t stop me from walking 12 km this morning. But I came back to my accommodation by 3 PM (gorgeous and luxurious with top-notch service for 800 baht—even a cute local welcome gift this morning, plus other unexpected touches like a bottle of honey and chrysanthemum flowers for tea. The lady must’ve guessed I was coming down with something yesterday). I thought about going out for dinner but didn’t have the energy. I think I’ve got at least 39°C fever...
Anyway, I’m sending you this message, Thierry, because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into it. But now it’s a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis. At least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one! I’ll check the bus station directly tomorrow. Online, it’s all taxis, no buses. I’d like to explore the countryside/mountains if I can find an affordable driver. Any ideas for destinations or itineraries? Thanks.
The town is exactly how you described it back in 2022. Though I’m surprised to find so many trendy, slightly intellectual "Cafés." Apparently, coffee—excellent everywhere—is king in Nan. It feels like a university town. And it seems pretty lively at night! But for now, I’m going to bed early. I caught a nasty cold, which didn’t stop me from walking 12 km this morning. But I came back to my accommodation by 3 PM (gorgeous and luxurious with top-notch service for 800 baht—even a cute local welcome gift this morning, plus other unexpected touches like a bottle of honey and chrysanthemum flowers for tea. The lady must’ve guessed I was coming down with something yesterday). I thought about going out for dinner but didn’t have the energy. I think I’ve got at least 39°C fever...
Anyway, I’m sending you this message, Thierry, because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into it. But now it’s a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis. At least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one! I’ll check the bus station directly tomorrow. Online, it’s all taxis, no buses. I’d like to explore the countryside/mountains if I can find an affordable driver. Any ideas for destinations or itineraries? Thanks.
I really loved Thailand, but it was too touristy for my taste. So I'm hesitating about going back and wondering if Cambodia or Vietnam would be less crowded with tourists...
Hello everyone,
We’re heading to Vietnam for 14 nights over the Christmas holidays as a family of four—I haven’t booked anything yet.
I’d love your insights on Halong Bay (or Lan Ha Bay).
We’re torn between going or not and spending an extra night in Ninh Binh (or somewhere else you’d recommend! Somewhere with a more picturesque vibe) given the late-December weather and cost (which agency do you recommend?). The upside might be that we’ll be there during the low season, so maybe fewer tourists? (Even though it’d be New Year’s Eve night.)
Here’s our itinerary:
Arrival in Ho Chi Minh City around 1 p.m.
2nd night in HCMC (no time for the Mekong Delta ☹️)
Flight to Da Nang
3 nights in Hoi An
Bus to Hue, 1 night in Hue
City visit, overnight train to Ninh Binh
2 or 3 nights in Ninh Binh?
Halong Bay or Lan Ha Bay?
2 nights in Hanoi
Departure
Thank you so much in advance for your invaluable tips!
Hi everyone,
We have a chance to stop in Hanoi on our way from Japan back to France.
We arrive on Tuesday, May 12th around 2 PM and leave for France on Saturday, May 16th around 10 PM.
I’d like to do a 2-day cruise in Halong Bay or Lan Ha Bay, then either 2 days in Ninh Binh or 1 day.
- 12/05: Hanoi
- 13/05: cruise
- 14/05: end of cruise and head to Tam Coc
- 15/05: sightseeing
- 16/05: early departure for Hanoi, day in Hanoi, then flight to France at 10 PM
We don’t want to be overwhelmed by crowds of tourists and prefer to be on our own.
Do you have any tips for us—agencies, transport, sights, accommodation, or visits? Thanks so much for your feedback! Best regards, Isabelle
Do you have any tips for us—agencies, transport, sights, accommodation, or visits? Thanks so much for your feedback! Best regards, Isabelle
Hi everyone,
I’ve got a big project in northern Vietnam—discovering the most beautiful rice terraces before the harvest...
I’m planning to leave around September 15th until October 15th, then spend 15 days exploring the two bays, Lan Ha and Ha Long. In total, 45 days without a visa...
I’m traveling solo and very independent.
But is it possible to do this kind of trip using local trains and buses?
My plan is to leave Hanoi for Nghia Lo (2 days), then Mu Cang Chai (4 days), Sapa (4 days), Bac Ha (2 days), Ha Giang... Hoang Su Phi, then do the Meo Vac loop, Dong Van, etc., to see those stunning karst peaks before heading back to Hanoi.
In my research, I haven’t found any buses or vans going from Hanoi to Nghia Lo, even though it’s super popular for its rice terrace landscapes....
I don’t want a daily driver, but I’m thinking I could use moto-taxis to get around locally once I’m there....
What do you think?
These rice terraces are a dream for me, along with the markets and all the different ethnic groups, not to mention those spectacular rocky peaks...
Is the itinerary too ambitious? I’ve got time on my side.
Do you have any solutions? I’ve browsed the forum a lot, but the discussions are 5 or 6 years old, and I think things have changed since then.
Thanks for your help planning this adventure!
Hello,
I’m planning and organizing a wonderful trip to Vietnam from mid-March to mid-April 2026, traveling independently for a month with my wife to enjoy her new retirement. Here’s a summary of our itinerary: We arrive in Ho Chi Minh City on the morning of Wednesday, March 18, and depart from Hanoi on the evening of Thursday, April 16. First, I’d like to head to Ho Chi Minh City because the temperatures are high in that region in mid-March. After that, we’ll visit Phu Quoc Island and then the Mekong Delta. We’ll return to Ho Chi Minh City and take a flight to Hue for 2 days, then Tam Coc / Ninh Binh (2-3 days), and Cat Ba Island with a visit to Lan Ha Bay (4 days). We’ll spend a few days in Hanoi, followed by 3-4 days in Sapa with some hikes, and then the Ha Giang loop (4 days). (I’m a motorcyclist—I ride a BMW trail bike and have taken care of renewing my international license.) We’re considering renting a motorcycle or bicycles when needed, except in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The weather in northern Vietnam in early April should theoretically be decent. Finally, we’ll return to Hanoi before heading back to Paris and the Pays de la Loire. Unfortunately, I’m skipping Angkor in Cambodia. I’d like to have a guide for 1 or 2 days in Sapa (which typical agency would you recommend?), and I’m wondering if I should book an agency for the 4 days in Ha Giang. I prefer my independence and don’t really like the "group" aspect of agencies. I’ll rent a 150cc motorcycle, and my wife will ride with me. Other questions: What are some good, typical accommodations to book in the places we’ve identified? Thanks for any info. Did I forget anything, or should we adjust our itinerary? Thanks for your help and advice. Pimarguibou
I’m planning and organizing a wonderful trip to Vietnam from mid-March to mid-April 2026, traveling independently for a month with my wife to enjoy her new retirement. Here’s a summary of our itinerary: We arrive in Ho Chi Minh City on the morning of Wednesday, March 18, and depart from Hanoi on the evening of Thursday, April 16. First, I’d like to head to Ho Chi Minh City because the temperatures are high in that region in mid-March. After that, we’ll visit Phu Quoc Island and then the Mekong Delta. We’ll return to Ho Chi Minh City and take a flight to Hue for 2 days, then Tam Coc / Ninh Binh (2-3 days), and Cat Ba Island with a visit to Lan Ha Bay (4 days). We’ll spend a few days in Hanoi, followed by 3-4 days in Sapa with some hikes, and then the Ha Giang loop (4 days). (I’m a motorcyclist—I ride a BMW trail bike and have taken care of renewing my international license.) We’re considering renting a motorcycle or bicycles when needed, except in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The weather in northern Vietnam in early April should theoretically be decent. Finally, we’ll return to Hanoi before heading back to Paris and the Pays de la Loire. Unfortunately, I’m skipping Angkor in Cambodia. I’d like to have a guide for 1 or 2 days in Sapa (which typical agency would you recommend?), and I’m wondering if I should book an agency for the 4 days in Ha Giang. I prefer my independence and don’t really like the "group" aspect of agencies. I’ll rent a 150cc motorcycle, and my wife will ride with me. Other questions: What are some good, typical accommodations to book in the places we’ve identified? Thanks for any info. Did I forget anything, or should we adjust our itinerary? Thanks for your help and advice. Pimarguibou
Hi everyone,
I couldn’t find any recent posts on this topic, so I thought I’d create a new one. We’ve just started planning our family trip to Vietnam this coming August. We’d like to travel from North to South, starting in Hanoi and ending in Ho Chi Minh.
Usually, we rent a car when we arrive and manage on our own. But I get the feeling that in Vietnam, it’s more complicated... It seems like the only option we have is to rent a car with a driver? Is that really the case?
I’m thinking of starting with a cruise in Halong Bay since we arrive on my partner’s birthday, and I wanted a beautiful setting to celebrate it. So, is the option of having a driver wait for 2 days while we’re on the cruise really feasible?
The rest of the itinerary isn’t planned at all yet. I’d love to hear your tips. We’re traveling from August 8th (morning) to the 26th (afternoon).
Thanks for your advice.
I couldn’t find any recent posts on this topic, so I thought I’d create a new one. We’ve just started planning our family trip to Vietnam this coming August. We’d like to travel from North to South, starting in Hanoi and ending in Ho Chi Minh.
Usually, we rent a car when we arrive and manage on our own. But I get the feeling that in Vietnam, it’s more complicated... It seems like the only option we have is to rent a car with a driver? Is that really the case?
I’m thinking of starting with a cruise in Halong Bay since we arrive on my partner’s birthday, and I wanted a beautiful setting to celebrate it. So, is the option of having a driver wait for 2 days while we’re on the cruise really feasible?
The rest of the itinerary isn’t planned at all yet. I’d love to hear your tips. We’re traveling from August 8th (morning) to the 26th (afternoon).
Thanks for your advice.
Hello,
We’re a couple looking for a driver for 10 days to explore Northern Vietnam in April.
Best regards,
Hi there,
After arriving in Ho Chi Minh City at the beginning of March 26, where I think I’ll stay for maybe two days (or more?), we’d like to spend a few days in the Mekong Delta.
Is it better to stay in one place (Vinh Long, Cai Be, My Tho, An Binh, etc.) and take boat trips every day, or split our time between two or three spots, which means changing accommodation and moving our luggage around? Of course, agencies offer 3- or 5-day tours from Ho Chi Minh City, but are they really worth it, both financially and in terms of the visits themselves?
What’s your experience with this? How did you do it, and if you had to do it again? Any tips?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Dominique
Hello,
I’ve been to Thailand three times a long time ago, and I’d love to visit neighboring countries too: Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia (while returning to Thailand 😛).
The catch is that I’d like to go at the beginning of the year, but I’ve heard that’s peak tourist season for these countries. Ideally, I’d prefer to avoid peak season to save money (I’m not exactly rolling in it) and to be able to travel without reservations—without being forced to take a room in the local "palace" that still has availability because of its exorbitant prices.
From my distant memories of Thailand, I usually paid around the equivalent of 20 € per night (with a hearty breakfast) for a hotel room with a mini-bar.
What are the average prices for this type of accommodation in Thailand and its neighbors during "peak" season these days? Do prices fluctuate a lot depending on the season, or is tourist demand not that different from one season to another, keeping prices relatively stable? Are the chances of finding a "budget" room without a reservation still high, no matter the season, in this part of the world? 😇
From my distant memories of Thailand, I usually paid around the equivalent of 20 € per night (with a hearty breakfast) for a hotel room with a mini-bar.
What are the average prices for this type of accommodation in Thailand and its neighbors during "peak" season these days? Do prices fluctuate a lot depending on the season, or is tourist demand not that different from one season to another, keeping prices relatively stable? Are the chances of finding a "budget" room without a reservation still high, no matter the season, in this part of the world? 😇
Hi there,
we’ll be in Mai Chau in June and we’re thinking of heading to Sapa, but first spending a few days in Bac Ha to do some hiking and explore the area.
Is this a good idea for those who’ve been there?
How do you get there?
Thanks for your feedback.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
Hi there,
I’m spending a month in northern Vietnam, and my trip starts in Lào Cai and Sapa. Could you recommend a scooter rental place? Of course, I’d like one with clean, well-maintained equipment and a trustworthy rental company.
Also, any recommendations for budget homestay hotels in Sapa—max 20 € per night?
Any ideas for scooter tour routes (blogs welcome)? I’ll be heading to Điện Biên Phủ for a trip.
Thanks!
I’m spending a month in northern Vietnam, and my trip starts in Lào Cai and Sapa. Could you recommend a scooter rental place? Of course, I’d like one with clean, well-maintained equipment and a trustworthy rental company.
Also, any recommendations for budget homestay hotels in Sapa—max 20 € per night?
Any ideas for scooter tour routes (blogs welcome)? I’ll be heading to Điện Biên Phủ for a trip.
Thanks!
Hello,
We’ll arrive in Hanoi on April 17, 2025, and plan to head to the Northwest (Sapa region) and Northeast starting on April 20. How many days do you recommend for this trip? We’re two couples and a 4-year-old child. Should we book through an agency in Hanoi and do the circuit by van, or can we manage with buses—like an overnight bus from Hanoi to Sapa, then 2–3 days in the Sapa region, followed by a bus from Sapa to Ha Giang for a 3-day loop?
Thanks in advance for your tips, itinerary ideas, accommodation suggestions, guesthouses, restaurants, and any great deals!
Hi everyone, has anyone been to the delta recently and has up-to-date info on the floating markets? We’ll be there at the end of February 2026 and would love to visit one—touristy is fine as long as there’s activity and it’s not deserted. Thanks for your feedback!
We’re in Dong Van for a few days and we’re looking for a guide to give us advice and accompany us on some beautiful walks, hikes, and scenic sites to see. Would you have a contact to share or a method to find one? There’s no visible offer here for newcomers like us!
Thanks so much for any info that could help!
Catherine
Hi,
I'm looking for a reliable provider for a 4-5 day road trip loop starting from Hanoi to Sapa and/or Ha Giang. Does anyone have any contacts?
Thanks in advance,
Arnaud
Bonjour les voyageurs
Premiere visite au Vietnam.
Nous arriverons a Ho Chi Ming ville pendant la féte du Tét.
Est ce compliqué pour se loger, se déplacer pendant cette période?
Quelques conseils bienvenus.
Merci pour vos réponses.
bonjour
Je serais en croisière le 11 janvier 2027. on fait un arret a Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My)
j'aimerais visiter autre chose que la ville, quelqu'un a recommandation ou guide pour 6-8 personnes prise en charge au port
j'aimerais voir des rizières.
Je serais en croisière le 11 janvier 2027. on fait un arret a Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My)
j'aimerais visiter autre chose que la ville, quelqu'un a recommandation ou guide pour 6-8 personnes prise en charge au port
j'aimerais voir des rizières.
I’m starting a discussion about guides in the Mekong Delta because we’ve just finished our trip in this region and had a hard time finding a French-speaking guide. We had Thanh—she speaks French really well and travels all over the delta region, including Ho Chi Minh City. She’s super friendly and flexible. I recommend her wholeheartedly. If it can help someone...
Feel free to contact us for her number.
Hi there, we’re heading to Vietnam from February 20th to March 20th. We’ll be traveling from south to north and ending up in the Ha Giang region. Is the period starting March 10th a good time to explore this area? Is it possible to do this loop by motorbike given the weather?
Thanks for your tips!
Béatrice and Philippe
Hi there,
The question’s in the title—should I buy a map locally or bring a detailed one from France? If so, which one?
Thanks! 😉
The question’s in the title—should I buy a map locally or bring a detailed one from France? If so, which one?
Thanks! 😉
Hi there, we’re landing at Hanoi Airport and would like to head straight to Cao Bang without going into Hanoi. Does anyone know if there are buses that go directly from the airport to Cao Bang (especially in the early afternoon)? Thanks in advance!
Good evening,
Exceptional floods occurred last week in central Vietnam, in the Hoi An and Hue regions. These areas get a lot of rain every year, but this time it's historically devastating.
The images are striking, horrifying, and surreal for those of us—like me—who walked these beautiful streets not long ago: the old town of Hoi An completely submerged, water up to the rooftops, the Japanese Bridge barely peeking out of the water... In Hue, the flag monument in front of the Imperial City entrance was nothing more than an island...
I’m not posting any links, but anyone can find them online if they wish.
Stay strong to our Vietnamese friends. And a strong warning to all tourists: avoid these regions. The water levels are receding, but more rain is on the way...
Exceptional floods occurred last week in central Vietnam, in the Hoi An and Hue regions. These areas get a lot of rain every year, but this time it's historically devastating.
The images are striking, horrifying, and surreal for those of us—like me—who walked these beautiful streets not long ago: the old town of Hoi An completely submerged, water up to the rooftops, the Japanese Bridge barely peeking out of the water... In Hue, the flag monument in front of the Imperial City entrance was nothing more than an island...
I’m not posting any links, but anyone can find them online if they wish.
Stay strong to our Vietnamese friends. And a strong warning to all tourists: avoid these regions. The water levels are receding, but more rain is on the way...
Hi there,
Planning a trip in January to the Mekong Delta.
Question: I’m stopping at Gieng Island—are there public buses from Ho Chi Minh City or Sa Dec that go near the ferry dock for this little island?
Question: How do you get to Tram Chim National Park (the bird sanctuary) by bus?
Finally, is there an app for public transport in southern Vietnam?
Maybe some of you have been there before 🙂
Thanks for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m currently in Hoi An—I hadn’t set foot here for 8 years. The city has already changed a lot, with lots of construction, and even in the old town, along one side of the riverbank, there are huge residential buildings going up that take away some of the charm of this place. But the worst part is the overtourism—it’s impossible to walk across the famous bridge in the middle of the canal in the evening because it’s so packed with people. There’s also a new trend: massage parlors have opened in the old town and around the city. I was shocked—people call out to you or even grab your arm on the sidewalk, and it’s everywhere. Bangkok and Phuket might start shaking—Hanoi’s the same way.
Anyway, let’s talk about the dual pricing specifically for non-Vietnamese tourists. We went to a restaurant near our hotel last night, and they gave us an English menu—okay, fine! But I noticed the table next to us, where Vietnamese tourists had a different menu. Weird! I asked to see the same menu as my neighbors, but the waitress refused, saying it was in Vietnamese and we wouldn’t understand. I insisted, and she finally agreed. Surprise!!! The prices on the two menus were different, with the English one up to 50% more expensive. I asked why, and she got flustered, telling me to just order from the Vietnamese menu, which I translated with my phone to see the local prices. I mentioned this to the hotel this morning, and the receptionist told me to go to restaurants where prices are displayed at the entrance to avoid getting ripped off. I just bought fresh bread this morning, and it was the same thing—the little loaf costs 4000 dong for Vietnamese people and 5000 dong for non-Vietnamese. It’s not a huge difference, but this way of doing things isn’t right. At supermarkets like VinMart+, prices are displayed, so there’s no surprise or dual pricing there.
I’m currently in Hoi An—I hadn’t set foot here for 8 years. The city has already changed a lot, with lots of construction, and even in the old town, along one side of the riverbank, there are huge residential buildings going up that take away some of the charm of this place. But the worst part is the overtourism—it’s impossible to walk across the famous bridge in the middle of the canal in the evening because it’s so packed with people. There’s also a new trend: massage parlors have opened in the old town and around the city. I was shocked—people call out to you or even grab your arm on the sidewalk, and it’s everywhere. Bangkok and Phuket might start shaking—Hanoi’s the same way.
Anyway, let’s talk about the dual pricing specifically for non-Vietnamese tourists. We went to a restaurant near our hotel last night, and they gave us an English menu—okay, fine! But I noticed the table next to us, where Vietnamese tourists had a different menu. Weird! I asked to see the same menu as my neighbors, but the waitress refused, saying it was in Vietnamese and we wouldn’t understand. I insisted, and she finally agreed. Surprise!!! The prices on the two menus were different, with the English one up to 50% more expensive. I asked why, and she got flustered, telling me to just order from the Vietnamese menu, which I translated with my phone to see the local prices. I mentioned this to the hotel this morning, and the receptionist told me to go to restaurants where prices are displayed at the entrance to avoid getting ripped off. I just bought fresh bread this morning, and it was the same thing—the little loaf costs 4000 dong for Vietnamese people and 5000 dong for non-Vietnamese. It’s not a huge difference, but this way of doing things isn’t right. At supermarkets like VinMart+, prices are displayed, so there’s no surprise or dual pricing there.
I'd love to get some suggestions for central Vietnam in February for seniors. We'd like to stay in one place, near a beach, and visit the surrounding areas. Then after a month, we'd head to the south of the country.
Hi,
I’m planning to travel from April 12 to 24, 2025, for my first solo trip.
I’m torn between two destinations: Thailand or Vietnam. Which one would you recommend? Thanks so much for your advice!
