Hi there, A friend has osteoarthritis in the knee and a meniscus problem, treated with regular injections. Do you know of any insurance companies that cover pre-existing conditions in case their knee locks up in Africa? Thanks a bunch!

I'm heading to Cape Verde in July and I'd like some practical info: Are boat connections between the islands easy? Should we book tickets in advance? There are three of us women—are there any safety concerns?

Thanks in advance for your replies

Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming? Thanks

Hi,

I’m going on leave to Cape Verde on 12/06/25 and completed the mandatory registration to enter the country. After filling in my identity, passport number, and hotel address, I tried to pay with my debit card. However, I couldn’t validate the payment—an error message appeared, and the same thing happened with two other cards (bug?). If it still doesn’t work by the time I leave, can I pay the fee upon arrival? Is there a way to do it at the Cape Verde Consulate in Paris?

Thanks.

Hi everyone who loves Santo Antão in Cape Verde! 🙂

I’m arriving at São Vicente Airport in Cape Verde around 2:00 PM. Are there buses or *aluguer* that go to Mindelo, and is it possible to catch a ferry to Santo Antão right after, or is it better to leave the next day?

Thanks so much for your help

I hope this travel journal might interest some people, but since we were completely self-sufficient (tent, sleeping bag, pot, cooking over a wood fire…) almost every day, I don’t have many hotel addresses or great restaurant tips to share! Sorry!

We used the Maio map at 1:50,000 scale. It’s part of the Boa Vista/Sal/Maio map. Bought on Amazon, but currently unavailable as of the latest news.

The people of Maio are extremely welcoming and warm, and we were always more than well received in the villages where we pitched our tent!

We’re usually big hikers, but since Maio is a beach island (gorgeous ones, at that!), we alternated a few hours of walking in the morning with some relaxation in the afternoon: beach, reading, fishing, resting…

1 euro = 110 escudos

Day 1 (Friday) Transfers by plane: Fogo-Praia-Maio We opted for the plane to save some time on transfers, as the boat connections between Fogo and Praia take a while, and those between Praia and Maio are almost nonexistent.

You should budget around 40-50 euros per flight per person.

There are 2 flights per week between Praia and Maio—on Tuesdays and Fridays when we were there (January 2016), but currently on Mondays and Fridays.

Tickets were booked directly and without issue on the TACV website: https://flytacv.com/?lang=en

A bit of a delay leaving Praia, but we arrived on Maio without any problems around 4 PM.

We took an *aluguer* (shared transport, 200 escudos per person) to the center of Vila do Maio, but it’s totally doable on foot with a backpack.

Since it was already a bit late, for this first night, we dropped our bags at Big Game Maio. A standard European-style hotel run by a very nice Italian family. It’s a bit pricey for us (5500 escudos for 2 people with breakfast), but after our 2 weeks in a tent on Fogo, we were happy to find a little comfort. And the breakfast is ultra-generous, with fresh products (cured ham, fruit, cheese, bread) and top quality. The hotel restaurant offers dishes that are a clever mix of Italian and Cape Verdean cuisine. Excellent!

Little tip: We didn’t try it, but Big Game Maio offers big-game fishing trips, diving, and quad rentals.

The hotel is 2 minutes from Vila’s beautiful beach, and we went for a dip at sunset and took a stroll around town. They’re redeveloping the waterfront with pretty sidewalks and light stone walls.

Vila beach

Sunset behind Santiago



Day 2 (Saturday): rest day + fishing After 2 weeks of hiking and since Vila is such a peaceful place where it’s nice to take your time, we decided to spend an extra day there. We took the path heading south along the coast to reach Ponta Preta beach in 20 minutes. The path isn’t very pretty because there’s quite a bit of construction going on, which prevents you from really walking along the shore. Lots of real estate agencies, especially Italian ones, have taken over the land. But Ponta Preta beach is a stunning black-sand beach where we had the whole place to ourselves. We decided to go fishing from the rocks.

At 1 PM, the sun was blazing, so we headed back to Vila and dried the fish for the following days.

At 6 PM, we went fishing again, but this time at night from the rocks at the end of Vila beach.

8:30 PM: back to shower and eat at the restaurant.

The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta

Day 3 (Sunday): from Vila do Maio to Calheta de Baixo, via Monte Batalha (path 101) Hiking time: 5h Since there aren’t many “summits” on Maio, we decided to head to Calheta de Baixo but via Monte Batalha. We left at 8:20 AM and somehow made it to Monte Batalha by 11 AM (2h40 of hiking). But the path is really hard to find in the middle of the dry grass and acacia trees. We kind of cut through randomly, aiming for the summit. Even though it’s not very high (around 300 m), the view is amazing—you can see all of Maio at 360°!

Short 30-minute break. The descent through the “forest” of acacias is even worse for finding your way. We oriented ourselves a bit by the sun to find the road connecting Vila to Calheta. We arrived around 1:30 PM at Calheta de Baixo. A very pretty little seaside village with colorful houses. An idyllic beach, a newly renovated square, and super-friendly people. We pitched our tent facing the sea on the terrace of an abandoned house (after asking the locals for permission).

We cooked some of the dried fish we’d caught the day before, along with fresh beans we’d brought from Fogo (and were still carrying!).

At the summit of Monte Batalha

Calheta

Calheta de Baixo

Day 4 (Monday): From Calheta de Baixo to Morrinho on foot. Hiking time: 3h. Then hitching a bus to Cascabulho, and a car to Pedro Vaz. We left around 9:30 AM heading north (path 201), following the coastline where the beaches just keep coming—each one wilder and more beautiful than the last: Praia de Soca, Calheta Braca, Ponta de Pau Seco, Calhetina. We reached the dunes of Baia de Santana. There’s no real path, so you have to follow the coast, then go around the dunes, and when you spot the 3 coconut trees, head east toward them to find the track leading to Morrinho. Again, we discovered a village with a Wild West vibe, with colorful houses lined up on either side of a paved road. Just enough time to accept a drink offered by a local before jumping onto the passing school bus that took us to Cascabulho. There, we waited for a ride. A political delegation of 10 cars drove right past us without stopping. Luckily, one of the cars had a flat tire and came by 30 minutes later—and that one, thankfully, gave us a lift! They were heading to the inauguration of a water pump in Pedro Vaz. So that’s where we stopped too. After getting permission from the school principal, we pitched our tent in front of the village school… and became the attraction for all the kids who kept us company until nightfall! A woman gave us 2 jugs of water, but with all that company, it was tough to take a peaceful shower!!

Dinner: pasta with beans.

We were woken up by rain during the night and had to rush to bring all our stuff inside the tent!



The beaches just keep coming...

The dunes

The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track

Day 5 (Tuesday): Rest day and fishing at Boca da Ribeira beach We packed up at 8 AM because the kids had school. We filled the 2 water jugs that the woman lent us and headed down to camp at Boca da Ribeira beach, which is a bit further east of Pedro Vaz. It took less than an hour to get there. This time, we really were alone in the world! We pitched the tent and spent the day fishing, reading, playing, and swimming regularly because the sun was beating down hard!!! We caught a nice fish that we grilled over the fire in the evening. With the crabs and shellfish we gathered, we made a seafood rice! Yum! What a feast!

That night, once the tent was zipped up, we felt something like rain on the tent fabric. I decided to go out and gather our things, and then—shock!!! It wasn’t raindrops we were feeling and hearing, but bugs attracted by the light!! Not just a few bugs—a huge swarm of them!!! Thousands of bugs covering the whole tent, the ropes, slipping into the seams and hems! Everywhere! The blue tent had turned green!!! After that, it was a real struggle to get back inside without letting any in! A real challenge, and there were always 3 or 4 that managed to sneak in anyway. Total war!!!

Boca da Ribeira beach



Day 6 (Wednesday): From Boca da Ribeira to Ribeira Dom João. Hiking time: 3h30 We woke up leisurely and waited for the sun to dry our things, damp from the dew. A man passed by, and we gave him the water jugs we’d borrowed, which saved us a trip back to Pedro Vaz to return them to the woman.

We left around 10 AM. We followed the sea to Alcatraz, then headed toward Pilão Cão. The path runs alongside the small hills on our right, and we passed above Lagoa Cimidor. The terrain is arid, and the path is hard to find among the many goat tracks.

After 3h30 of hiking, we reached Ribeira Dom João with 2 young people we’d met along the way.

Since it was a public holiday in Cape Verde, the kids didn’t have school, and with the principal’s permission, we pitched our tent in the kindergarten. She even kindly opened the school toilets for us. The neighbor gave us the water we needed to wash up and cook. We cooked beef steaks on charcoal. A nice change from fish!! Charcoal is a widespread artisanal product on the island. People almost never cook directly over wood but always with these big chunks of charcoal.

The hills on our right

Ribeira Dom João

Day 7 (Thursday): From Ribeira Dom João to Vila do Maio. Hiking time: 3h30 We woke up at 6:30 AM to clear out of the school by 8 AM. The neighbor made us coffee to save time. It took us 2 hours to reach Barreiro, another Wild West-style town! Since we didn’t want to walk on the road, we took the old track and reached Vila do Maio in 1h30.

Last night before taking the plane back to Praia the next day.

Barreiro

The old track

The church in Vila do Maio

That’s where this trip ends!

Maio is truly a magical island! A remote, isolated place with incredible, wild beaches and villages with a Wild West feel—colorful houses on either side of well-paved, well-maintained, and decorated streets. And the locals are so warm and welcoming.

Even for hikers like us, it was a great discovery, and we were able to alternate hiking and relaxation with great pleasure! Too bad the area around Vila do Maio is being overrun by real estate construction—ongoing, unfinished, abandoned…

Safe travels to all!

Hello, In mid-November, we’ll be in Mindelo and Santo Antão. We’ve booked transportation with Kapverden Tours. One trip is from Porto Novo to Ponta do Sol, including the hike from Corda to Coculi. What’s the trail like? Then we’ll be staying in Ponta do Sol,

Here’s what we’re planning: A hike to Fontainhas—what’s the best direction, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents. Take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande and continue along the coastal road.

With the agency: An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk. Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening. We’ll have a guide for this hike.

We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!

We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old. What do you think of this itinerary?

Hi everyone, After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February! I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach. So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival! Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things. I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself). But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕 So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia? I need help 🏴‍☠️

Hello, We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it. Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp. We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day). Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão. From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes. We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking. The hikes were stunning: - The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE) - The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return) - The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return) - The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE) - The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip. Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow. We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*. Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE. Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €. We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located. One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach. We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia. On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen. We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals. Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us. Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving. We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants. We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse. Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats! We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find). We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*. For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*. On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access. Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe. If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond. Jacquesler.

Hi there,

We’ve just returned from 15 days in Cape Verde, including 8 days of hiking in Santo Antão. It was a fantastic trip with great weather and heat that stayed manageable. Everything was organized by a highly competent local agency that really listened to our requests. I’m happy to share more details about the hikes, hotels, etc. if you’d like!

Because of a miscalculation on extra costs (non-hotel expenses and transfers), I’ve got 18,000 escudos left—I’d be more than happy to exchange them for a more widely used currency!

Hi there,

I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)

The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...

So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.

I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.

I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.

The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!

In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?

Thanks! :)

Hello, We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.

For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France

FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.

On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!

MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?

Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).

Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!

SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?

I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?

Thanks,

Hi, We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM. I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs. Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?

And we still haven’t seen everything! Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.

I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.

As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!

Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.

So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:

Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)

São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...

Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.

And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...

That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)

Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

It starts here:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790234;a=10790234

It’s been a month and a half since our family returned from Cape Verde, and I’ve finally found the time to write this travel journal about this beautiful yet little-known destination.

Cape Verde is a small volcanic archipelago made up of ten isolated islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. At the crossroads of maritime routes between three continents—Africa, the Americas, and Europe—its name is tied to the history of slavery.

But today, this little piece of Africa with Creole influences has a lot to offer travelers craving a change of scenery and adventures off the beaten path.

We visited three of these ten lovely islands rising from the ocean: Maio, the wild and authentic island; Fogo, the volcanic one; and Santiago, the cosmopolitan hub.

MAIO: THE SMALL, WILD, AND AUTHENTIC ISLAND

To travel between the neighboring islands of Santiago, where we landed from France, and Maio, the first stop on our trip, there are two options: plane or boat. To avoid the risk of the boat being canceled due to rough seas—and to save time—we chose to fly. The flight takes just fifteen minutes, while the boat ride lasts three hours. Since our stay was only fifteen days, saving that half-day was a big deal.

The colorful houses of Vila de Maio

Our first day on the island didn’t let us see the sun. It’s mid-August, the very start of the rainy season—which should really be called the cloudy season. This “rainy” period has nothing to do with what happens in other parts of the world, like Southeast Asia, where the monsoon can be devastating. Here, locals hadn’t seen a drop of rain in nearly a year, and for them, it’s a tragedy. That’s why the ground is so dry and the vegetation so sparse.

As a result, fruits and vegetables are scarce, and livestock are suffering so much that some farmers are forced to cull their herds. Ironically, back in France, we’d just come out of a miserable winter with nearly five months of nonstop gray skies and frequent rain, especially in some regions. Is our climate out of whack?...

The beach bordering the village of Vila de Maio

We stayed a week on Maio. We were lodged at Stella Maris Village, a small residence at the edge of Vila. A shared pool, perched on a small cliff, overlooks the deep blue sea.

Sunset at Stella Maris Village

The cliff isn’t very high, but it offers a nice view of the surroundings.



From the residence, it’s just a ten-minute walk through the village to reach the beach.

> The beach and the fishermen

We didn’t choose Maio just for its calm, wild, and authentic vibe. It was also so Victor and Arthur, our two sons, could earn their Level 1 scuba certification in Cape Verde’s beautiful waters, known for their abundant marine life but still relatively untouched by divers—for now...

On the first day, we met Bernard, who runs AAA Maio Plongée, to plan the five dives needed for their certification.

The dive sites are accessible by boat, but to reach it, you have to cross the surf. The waves vary in strength, and while they were gentle for our first snorkeling trip, getting past them with scuba tanks on our backs was a bit more of a workout for the later dives.



Snorkeling trip: this time, the waves were gentle...

The week of diving with Bernard went perfectly, in Cape Verde’s surprisingly fish-rich waters. On the morning of the last dive, while checking the sea to cross the surf safely, we even spotted a pod of dolphins swimming across the bay in the distance. Always a magical moment...

In a week, the beach at Vila, where the dive club is located, was the liveliest spot we saw on the whole island. All day long, fishing boats returned loaded with fish of all sizes.

Return from fishing

Here, fishermen have a strong sense of solidarity because they can’t pull their boats out of the water alone, especially when the waves are rough.

So, all day long, whenever a boat comes in, the fishermen on the beach rush to help drag it ashore and secure it higher up on the sand, away from the sea.



The sight of these colorful fishing boats on the beach is something we saw everywhere in Cape Verde.





Sometimes, the fishermen bring back impressive catches. Instead of carrying the fish by hand to a proper spot, they clean them right on the beach.



Sailfish

But every evening during our stay, this beach also hosted Maio’s annual soccer tournament. Residents from villages across the island gathered here at the end of the day to compete, including a few women’s teams.

Players were cheered on by hundreds of spectators—which is a lot for a small island with barely 8,000 inhabitants.



The beach doubled as a stadium: sand replaced grass, and the fishermen’s colorful boats served as seats and bleachers. The celebration had a laid-back vibe, with loudspeakers blasting music and the smell of grilled fish in the air.



Meanwhile, kids splashed around in the sea, which could sometimes be dangerous. The waves could be strong, but the currents were the real concern.

Hi, Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão? Thanks.