Hey there, I’m heading to Tuscany in August for three weeks. Does anyone have any tips to share? Thanks in advance! Olivier

Hi there, I live in Quebec and I’m planning a trip to Italy. We’re thinking of visiting Rome, Florence, Venice, and Tuscany. Here are a few questions I haven’t been able to find clear answers to online. If anyone can help, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!

- There are different City Passes for Rome. I’ve found the differences between them, but whenever I try to simulate a purchase, I’m always redirected to another site like Tiquet. Is there an official Tourism Office website for these?

- Is it easy to get around Tuscany by public transport, especially in the Chianti region?

- For guided tours (or not), which company do you prefer? Get Your Guide? Viator?

Looking forward to your recommendations—thanks again!

Hi there, This is my first time traveling to Italy, and I’m planning to go by car. From what I’ve read, parking is tough in cities like Florence. I’m looking for a small town not too far from Florence where I can stay and park my car, then take the train to visit Florence. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance

Hi everyone,

I bought a Trenord train ticket online from Milano Centrale station to Como. While I’ve been to Italy several times and taken trains before, this is my first time traveling with this company.

The app says the QR code will be available when the ticket becomes valid, which is at the train’s departure time. But I was wondering if there are turnstiles like the ones in French stations, and I’d like more details on how to use tickets with Trenord. I tried looking for information but couldn’t find everything I needed.

Thanks in advance! 🙂

Here’s the itinerary for a ten-day trip through Slovenia and Northern Italy using local transport.

Saturday, May 2: Arrival

Arrived in Ljubljana on a Transavia flight from Paris. I’d spotted a bus connection to the city center, but it’s worth noting there’s no dedicated line—most buses stopping at the airport come from Bled. On a sunny Saturday afternoon, the bus was already packed with people who’d headed to the lake for some fresh air. I ended up taking a shared van, with drivers actively offering transfers to travelers. I paid 12 € for the ride to the train station, then walked 15 minutes to Hotel Celica. It lives up to its description as a former prison turned hotel—close to the city center, clean, with a hearty breakfast. The rooms are basic, with beds 3 meters off the ground, accessible by a wooden ladder. For dinner, I opted for an Indian restaurant.

Sunday, May 3: Urban marathon





Good news: museums are free on the first Sunday of the month. I started with the National Gallery, then took a stroll through Tivoli Park, enjoying the outdoors. I tried grilling in the park before heading to the Museum of Modern Art and the eclectic National Museum of Slovenia, which was interesting for its architecture. Next up was the castle—you can enter the grounds for free; the only reason to pay is to access the keep for the city views.

Monday, May 4: Bled



I spent the morning exploring Ljubljana’s architecture but was disappointed by the Krakovo district, which guidebooks had hyped up.

In the afternoon, I took the bus to Bled. The hostel was right at the bus station, and I soon realized I’d be the only guest—the owner was struggling to attract visitors. I walked around the lake and searched for the viewpoint access. It’s a steep climb with a staircase, but worth it.



Tuesday, May 5: Vintgar Gorge



I headed to the gorges early in the morning via a shuttle, then walked back to Bled. It was stunning—it reminded me a bit of the Samaria Gorge I’d visited last year.

The bus took me straight to Stara Fužina near Lake Bohinj, where I stayed in a homestay. I loved it, even though there wasn’t much interaction with the hosts.

The weather was overcast and misty, giving the lake a Scottish vibe.



Wednesday, May 6: Bohinj

Rainy day, so I took the bus to Ukanc at the far end of the lake and walked back.

Thursday, May 7: Mostnica Gorge and the auto-train

I set off on foot for the gorges from Stara Fužina, taking a detour up to Planina Uskovnica, a steep and rarely used trail. The views of Triglav and the traditional alpine huts were incredible.



I then took the auto-train to Most na Soči. The passenger section has compartments, and the windows can be opened. The ride through the gorges was breathtaking. I stayed at a family-run guesthouse near the Most na Soči station—authentic and cozy.



Friday, May 8: Tolmin Gorge and Nova Gorica

I took the bus to Tolmin, then walked 30 minutes to the gorges. The trail is well-maintained but short, so I extended my hike with a scenic loop through the gorges and nearby villages.



A quick train ride later, I was in Nova Gorica for the night, positioning myself to reach the Adriatic coast the next day. I explored at a fast pace—Villa Raffut on the Slovenian side, then crossed the border to visit Palazzo Attems-Petzenstein and grab an aperitivo in the main square. You could tell I was in Italy just by the vibe. The old border checkpoint is still there.

Saturday, May 9: Piran

Three trains and a bus later, I arrived. The journey was scenic, and it was worth it.

Piran is touristy but manageable. It feels like a mix of Croatia and Italy, with both influences evident. The maritime museum was fascinating, with its detailed ship models. There’s still a local feel—there was even a great blues concert by the harbor that evening.

Sunday, May 10: Piran

I walked to Izola along the coast—a beautiful route with paths, roads, and lakes. It was Sunday, and the tip of the village was lively with families picnicking. I decided to take the bus to Koper. The regional museum was quiet, but the garden was stunning.

Monday, May 11: Trieste

The bus connection from Koper was frequent and easy. Trieste is very open to the sea. I visited the castle and the massive Revoltella Museum—good timing, since it was raining. The collection spans everything from classical to contemporary art.



I missed my connection to Stresa later that day, so I had to improvise a night in a dorm near Milan’s train station.

Tuesday, May 12: Stresa

I came mainly for the Borromean Islands. First impressions weren’t great—crowded at the dock and windy. I didn’t like Isola Bella—too many people and too flashy. I much preferred Isola Madre, with its peaceful gardens where you can find solitude. On the way back, I stopped at Isola dei Pescatori after some hesitation, and it was worth it. Finally, I explored Stresa, with its colorful houses and grand palaces.

Wednesday, May 13: Heading to the Jura

I wrapped up my trip by taking the EuroCity train from Milan to Geneva via the Simplon Pass. From there, I headed to my vacation spot, taking the train from Nyon to La Cure (on the border). The rest of the journey was private.

Hi there, I’m heading to Florence soon, and since I want to visit as many museums as possible, I’m thinking of getting the Firenzecard (or Firenze Card). From what I’ve gathered online (and feel free to correct me if I’m wrong), with this card, you need to call a phone number to book a specific time slot for the Uffizi Gallery (+39 055 294883). Unfortunately, when I try calling this number from my mobile, I get a message saying the number “is no longer in service.” Has anyone else run into this? Could it be an issue with my phone plan, or has the number changed? Thanks in advance for your help. w.

I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.

Hi there,

I need to take the Explora I ship for a cruise departing from Venice (Fusina port) in mid-October.

We’re spending two days in Venice beforehand. How do we get to the ship? Is it easier to take the train back to Mestre and then a taxi? Are there taxis at Mestre station? Do we need to book in advance? Do you know of a reliable company?

Explora doesn’t offer a bus transfer and mentions a water taxi for 360 €!!!!

Thanks in advance for your help. Best regards, Claudine

Hi, I’d like to visit Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius in one day—of course, if that’s possible—and I’d love to know the price. Best regards.

Hi there, I’m planning a one-week trip to Italy, with Milan and Rome as my destinations. I’ll be taking a bus to Milan with FlixBus (which I’m not thrilled about since it’s not a great company), and I’ll stay for two days. After that, I’ll take the train to Rome. I’d like to know if the bus station is far from downtown Milan. For the trip to Rome, I’m thinking of booking the train via Trainline—is that a good idea? Also, which station does the train leave from? I think there are two stations in Milan. Please share any info you can to help me prepare for the trip. Thanks a million!

Hi, I need your help because I’m stuck. I booked 6 flight tickets to Palermo on August 6th through the Lastminute site. The flight is operated by Air France, and I just realized my name is wrong. I immediately contacted Air France, who told me it’s up to Lastminute to make the change, but they say it’s Air France’s responsibility. I’m really anxious because I’m traveling with my two kids. Can you help me? Thanks

I just got back from Sardinia 2 and wanted to share my little recap with you. It’s a stunning country, and the people are so welcoming. We were lucky to see it at the end of April—I wouldn’t go in July or August because it gets overcrowded and loses its charm!!! SARDINIA 2: 10 days

-Departure from Geneva to Olbia on Friday, 04/12/24 with EasyJet: 1h30 flight -Return from Cagliari to Geneva on Sunday, 04/21/24 with EasyJet: 1h40 flight (Round-trip price: 314 €) -Car rental with Locauto: 250 €, including 51 € for "full" insurance + 87 € (drop-off at a different airport) -Accommodation every night via Booking 13: room + kitchen *OLBIA: Arrival at the airport… wasted time at Locauto because there was only one person at the desk (you can check in online and send the driver’s license and ID, but it was impossible to do!) Headed to our lodging. *COSTA SMERALDA: The part we liked the least… everything feels artificial since the billionaires moved in (Porto Rotondo, Porto Cervo, Baia di Sardinia). We regret not stopping at Golfo Aranci to see its underwater art museum, Mumart. *ARZACHENA and its archaeological park (Tomba dei Giganti: Coddu Ecchju, Li Muri, Nuraghe la Prisgiona) to see in beautiful nature. Coastal road toward Palau (lagoons with lots of birds). *PALAU: Ferries to La Maddalena Island every 15/30 minutes (37 € for 2 people + 1 car). *** La Maddalena is part of an archipelago with 7 large islands and small islets… absolutely stunning… views of Corsica! *** -La Maddalena: A charming little town with narrow streets. -Follow the scenic coastal road that loops around the island for 21 km (gorgeous). -On the east side of the island, take a 600m bridge to Caprera Island (lots of great hiking trails). -Lots of beaches with granite rocks and wild coves. -Return by ferry to Palau. *SANTA TERESA GALLURA: Departure for Bonifacio 2, 4 km to Capo Testa (cape with a lighthouse… granite rocks). Here, there were Roman quarries. *Drive down a beautiful road along the Costa Paradiso (red trachyte). *CASTELSARDO: A fortified hilltop town worth seeing. *PORTO TORRES: Visit the Basilica San Gavino. *STINTINO and its beaches, including La Pelosa with its Genoese tower… too crowded for us! *Viewpoint at Capo Falcone with a view of Parco dell’Asinara (we didn’t have time to go, but it’s a must). *Drive down to Argentiera via small coastal roads (old lead, zinc, and silver mines). A "ghost town" with a museum that’s apparently only open on weekends at this time of year. *Small road (with stunning sea views) toward Grotta di Nettuno (you get there by a long staircase, but it was too windy and closed!). Capo Caccia. *Drive down (along lagoons with birds, including pink flamingos) toward Alghero (historic center: ramparts, bell tower, churches). The city of coral and lobsters! *Drive along the sea to Bosa, a colorful little town (Malvasia vineyards) between the Temo River and the sea. *Road to Montiferru Castle on a volcanic massif—ruins of the castle with a beautiful panorama of rolling hills (cork oak forests, chestnut trees, oaks) and cultivated plots. *** Cuglieri: Olive oil museum *** *Santa Caterina di Pittinuri, S’Archittu (many beaches with limestone cliffs) (many archaeological sites). *SINIS PENINSULA: Cabras and its lagoons with lots of pink flamingos. Archaeological museum with its Nuragic giants. *Archaeological site of Tharros. *ORISTANO: Not much visited, but it has some beautiful buildings. A traditional Sardinian pastry shop—an absolute delight (DELIGIA, Via Figoli 61). *Road surrounded by marshes, along the coast with beautiful little beaches. *Arrival at Costa Verde: The Piscinas dunes and beaches are stunning. Miniera Montevecchio and the surrounding old mines (Iglesiente road) (Naracauli, Ingurtosu). *** Near Guspini, in the mountains, visit the village of Arbus, where many Sardinian knife makers are based. But make the detour to meet Paolo Pusceddu, the master knife maker who opens his workshop and created the *Museo del Coltello Sardo* Via Roma, 15 · +39 349 053 7765. Absolutely fascinating and super interesting… he also sells his knives at very reasonable prices. *Masua (mines) then Pan di Zucchero. *Porto Flavia: Transport of minerals from a port carved into the cliff with two 600m tunnels… the visit is a must. *IGLESIAS: Worth visiting. *ISOLA DI SANT’ANTIOCO: A bridge connects it to Sardinia 2. Drive around the island via small roads. Calasetta (white and blue houses), Nido del Passeri, Cala Lunga, Capo Sperone, Turri. Beautiful beaches and stunning views. *Road to Teulada, then Chia (see the small road from Chia to Tuerredda). *PULA: Archaeological site of Nora. *CAPOTERRA: We ended our trip with a night at an agriturismo in the middle of olive groves, "Azienda Agricola Corte degli Ulivi" (Pixina Sa Murta, Marco: +39 347 246 2361). Unforgettable welcome, eco-friendly place (wooden house with water and electricity self-sufficiency). *Cagliari airport. In total, 1000 km, and we still didn’t finish exploring (the area south of Olbia and the interior are still on the list). The Sardinians are very welcoming. Sardinia 2 is diverse (beaches, countryside, towns, archaeological sites…). We were lucky to visit at the end of April—summer must be awful with the heat and tourist crowds! Easy to visit with kids.

Hi everyone, I’m not sure if you can help us out. We’ll be in Venice from June 8th to 17th. We arrive at the airport on the 8th and planned to take the Alilaguna waterbus to St. Mark’s Square to get to our Airbnb. We’ve estimated arriving at St. Mark’s Square between 11 AM and 12 PM. We didn’t realize we’d be arriving on the day of the race.

Because of the Vogalonga race taking place on June 8th, is the Grand Canal still navigable? If not, from what time will it be accessible again?

Thanks, Jacques

The title might surprise you, but you’ll understand my point of view.

1/ MEAL STRUCTURE I’m talking about the standard meal, not the one for those who have to budget for financial reasons (generally fewer in northern and central Italy than in France, but more in the south, which makes up 35% of Italy—Eurostat figures), nor for those (mostly women) watching their figure.

The tradition (once the meal of the well-off, widespread among the general population in the 1950s) starts with soup or pasta (or rice, gnocchi, ravioli, lasagna)—this is the *primo piatto*.

Next comes meat or another animal-based product (fish, cured meats, eggs, etc.)—the *secondo piatto*, which can be replaced by cooked vegetables (the only known example in France: eggplant parmesan).

If the meat dish doesn’t already include vegetables, one is served. Salads, whether green or tomato-based, are side dishes, not starters.

The meal ends with dessert—no difference from French habits: cheese, fruit, or sweets.

*Antipasti* (appetizers) are reserved for festive meals or receptions and are served *in addition* to the main courses at the start.

4 practices unknown in France: - If the menu includes pasta and ham, you start with the pasta. - If the menu includes pasta with a meat sauce and fish, you start with the pasta too. - Pasta is never a side dish for meat. - It’s not unusual for Italians to start with pasta in a meat sauce and then have a meat dish—most do this several times a week.

Modern adaptations: - People eat pasta less often (on average 5 times a week, according to recent figures) and soups, which are being replaced by *antipasti*. - The main meal is now mostly dinner, so it’s much heartier, while lunch isn’t usually eaten at home.

2/ THE CUISINE What do we know in France? Pizza, pasta Bolognese, carbonara, arrabbiata, ravioli, and lasagna. Fried scampi, Milanese or Bolognese cutlets, carpaccio, and finally tiramisu.

In short, a few basic dishes, but nothing of the gastronomy—whether regional traditions or high-end restaurants.

2 anecdotes: **Bolognese sauce** In Italy, the most common homemade sauce is a meat-and-tomato-based sauce called *ragù* (pronounced *ragoo*). Every region, even every town and family, as well as every restaurant, has its own recipe. *Ragù alla bolognese* is just one of these countless *ragù*—and no one in France knows the real recipe (I can share it with those interested). The name *bolognese* given abroad to any *ragù* comes from a canned sauce manufacturer who once branded their product that way. Until the early 1960s, it was called *sauce à la viande* (meat sauce).

**Pizza** Before World War II, it was practically unknown north of Rome. Today, Italy is one of the countries where it’s eaten the least (twice as much in France, four times as much in Germany).

Hi, I'm heading to Italy soon and I wanted to know if Italian banks charge fees when you withdraw cash at an ATM, or if, like in Spain or Greece, it's better to avoid taking out money and bring cash instead. Looking forward to your replies... Thanks

Hello there, pedal-powered Young Boys! Claudio (still from Faverges) dreaming about a cycling getaway in Italy from Faverges (train all the way to Turin) from Turin down to Venice along the Po River and back via the Padana (Alta Italia da attraversare – Northern Italy to cross) The tricky part is getting from Chioggia to Venice. I read it’s possible by hopping on a boat from island to island, but it sounds a bit stressful. Has anyone already tackled this route?

Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/

Claudio

Hi, I’m planning my trip to La Spezia and I’m struggling to find nice places to visit besides the Cinque Terre and Portovenere. Budget: Mid-range NO hiking

Can you help me out?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’ve planned a little day trip with my kids (12 and 16 years old) to Venice. The goal is to go for a walk through the city’s streets rather than visiting museums, which would take way too much time. We’d like to pass by the main landmarks, so I’ve put together a small 15 km hike... (thanks to Komoot and visioRando). Could you take a quick look and let me know if I’ve missed anything or made any mistakes?

1. Start at Santa Lucia Train Station 2. Ponte Degli Scalzi 3. Ponte dei Pugni 4. squero de San Trovaso 5 Le rio della Salute 6. Accademia Bridge 7. St. Mark’s Square 8. St. Mark’s Basilica 9. Ponte de la Canonica 10. Ponte de la Pietà 11. Ponte de la Tana 12. The Arsenale 13. Bridge of Sighs 14. Doge’s Palace Then return to the Rialto Bridge via Marzaria dell’Orologio

Also, could you tell me if the Doge’s Palace courtyard is paid entry? Thanks for your help and feedback!

Stéphane.

Hi there,

This year, we booked a rental in Colonno, Italy, by Lake Como.

Everything was going well until my wife wanted to see Milan... Out of 11 days, why not spend a day there, even though I’m not really a "city" person? Then I discovered ZTLs (Zona a Traffico Limitato)...

A 90 € fine if you’re unlucky enough to drive into one, and another 90 € if you drive out... While I was looking for info on where to park without risking a fine in Milan (any tips?), I found out that Como also has a ZTL. (Any parking advice there too?)

My question is: is there a map showing all the cities with ZTLs? Because if it means getting hit with hundreds of euros in fines 9 months later... 😕

The more I look for info, the more I come across unsettling stories... Like people who pass a ZTL sign, turn around immediately, and still get hit with two 90 € fines in 3 minutes... I don’t want to ruin the vacation over a small mistake...

Thanks in advance,

Hi there,

I’m starting this thread to ask for your advice on a tricky situation I recently ran into. Maybe you’ve been through something similar?

After booking my tickets for this summer, I realized I never received an email, payment confirmation, or reservation number (well, the number did appear on the page after payment, but I didn’t write it down, assuming I’d get it in the confirmation email that usually arrives right after). Even though I was charged, I have no other proof of purchase since I don’t have anything to back it up...

At the time, I wasn’t too worried—email delays had happened to me before. Worst case, I’d get it an hour later.

Except after a full day, I still hadn’t received anything, and the reservation still doesn’t show up in my personal account on the airline’s website.

What should I do?

I contacted support via message: still no reply (and they guarantee a response within two hours). I called them, but no one picked up (and on top of that, I was charged 7.5 € for 15 minutes on hold). Now I’m starting to lose my patience...

Has this ever happened to you?

Thanks in advance,

So happy the forum reopened last October!!! I’ve started reading again (posts, travel journals) and chiming in on a few discussions. Now I’m stepping it up by writing a new travel journal—I’ve already posted a few between 2018 and 2020.

My latest trip was to Italy from August 27 to September 26, 2024. As the title says, it was a wander through Tuscany in parts of the region that aren’t the most visited. No Firenze-Siena-Pisa trilogy, no San Gimignano; there’ll be a quick detour into Siena, but I’ll skip the best-known sights. That choice, plus traveling in September, should help dodge overtourism. It worked out—crowds were light, sometimes very light, the whole way. Here’s the practical rundown: - a long trip outside peak season (ah, retirees!) - solo camping (caravan) - a mix of activities (hiking, mountain biking, sightseeing) in places that aren’t always packed with tourists. Still, I don’t feel like I ended up in some hidden-away spots. Not sure if this will draw any readers.

DAY 1: Tuesday, August 27, 2024 The heat was intense on the drive in across the plain; two big storms—more rain and hail than lightning and thunder—threw the weather off, the first near Imola, the second on the four-lane road up the Savio valley. I left the Cesena-Roma four-lane at the Verghereto exit and climbed up to Balze (1,100 meters). The campsite is even higher (1,200 meters), in the forest near the source of the Tevere (Tiber). Staying up here will cut down on driving for the first part of the trip: a route through the Appennino (Apennines) on the border between Toscana and Emilia-Romagna. The temperature was surprisingly mild for the altitude, the air thick with moisture by late afternoon. I drove back down from the campsite to Balze (2 km on the road) to grab groceries (it’s doable) and scout tomorrow’s hike. .

The endpoint of the planned hike is just a few meters from this sign (the trail crosses this road about 3 km from Balze). I realized Balze and the source of the Tevere (Tiber) are actually in Emilia-Romagna, not Toscana. I always thought the Tevere (Tiber), which flows toward Roma (Tyrrhenian side), started in Toscana! I’ll come back to this quirk in Day 3’s write-up.

I'm probably going to spend a week in Naples, but I'd love to hear your thoughts! I've heard that the city is quite dangerous and crime-ridden? I've also heard that "Neapolitans" aren't very welcoming and have a bad temper? Is this true or just rumors?😊

Hello, We’re heading to Italy for five weeks next spring. It’ll be our first trip there. We’d love to see some must-see spots and beautiful countryside regions. Our main transport will be trains, and sometimes buses to reach smaller villages. We’re less interested in the mountains and lakes in the north. We’ll try to stay 4–5 days in some places and explore the surrounding area by train or bus. Any suggestions for planning our trip? Itineraries and must-sees! Thanks

After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia. It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.

For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.

Saturday, May 16: This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us. The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!! The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.

We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).

About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli. The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch. We explore the property:



And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:





Sunday, May 17: After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland. After a hearty breakfast,



we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs. We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.





We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).



From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.



Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.

Hi everyone! We’re so excited to be heading to Italy for the first time this April with our two kids for a week. We’ve booked our round-trip flight, and we’ll be arriving and departing from Pisa. Our rough plan so far includes visiting Pisa, taking the train to Florence, and exploring the Cinque Terre. Last night, a friend also suggested adding Siena to the list. Our kids are 12 and 9 and are used to walking, but we’re not looking to rush around too much. We’d love any advice, especially about accommodation. Should we stay in Pisa and take day trips by train, or split our nights between a couple of different places? We’re just starting our research, so any tips would be amazing! 😉 Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I’m starting to look into small solo cruises, for now in November. It’s my first cruise, so I’m a bit nervous. Anyone potentially interested in 7 days in Italy, Tunisia, and Spain? If you’ve got any tips, I’d love to hear them. Looking forward to reading your replies

I’ve just returned from a cruise on the COSTA DELIZIOSA and wanted to share my thoughts for anyone considering this cruise line.

**Boarding in VENICE:** AVOID – it took a total of 3 hours before we could finally board!

**CABINS:** Our group had booked cabins with portholes. These were on the first deck, around cabins 1230 to 1257, and they were fine—no complaints. BUT some of us had cabins in the 13xx range, and that was a completely different story. These were right next to the engines, with an UNBEARABLE noise level!!! Those guests had to fight to get their cabins changed. One couple, after two days of hassle and endless discussions, finally got a balcony cabin. However, another couple was DOWNGRADED to a tiny INTERIOR CABIN—even though they had originally booked a porthole cabin!

COSTA clearly doesn’t care about its customers. Of course, these guests are still pursuing compensation, but their cruise was ruined.

Now, let’s talk about meals, the MY DRINK package, and the shows.

**Self-service meals:** NOT GREAT AT ALL. The buffets were chaotic—no pizza buffets like on MSC (because if you want pizza, you have to pay for it!). No pasta buffets either, unlike MSC.

**Restaurant meals:** Overall, they were okay, but whatever you do, don’t order the "3 Chefs" dishes—you’ll be very disappointed! And if you dine at the 3 Chefs restaurant, the menu costs 59 €!

**MY DRINK package:** In theory, ALL DRINKS ARE INCLUDED except for certain alcohols. They leave a large bottle of mineral water in your cabin, but if you drink it, they charge you for it despite the package. And on top of that, you’re only allowed 7 small bottles of water, while the number of alcoholic or non-alcoholic cocktails is unlimited?????

**SHOWS:** HUGE DISAPPOINTMENT! They only lasted half an hour, with no elaborate costumes, no real choreography—just one or two singers or a juggler on stage performing the entire evening’s show.

And the sound system? UNBEARABLE—so loud!

We had dinner during the second seating—which we really didn’t appreciate—and since meals ended at 10:30 PM, we’d look for a quiet spot afterward, but there wasn’t one! Music was blasting everywhere, and it was WAY too loud!

Another issue: The satisfaction survey. **Would you recommend COSTA to your friends and family?** Then the presenter gives you this whole speech about how the staff works 24/7 and that if you say you’re not satisfied, you’re punishing the hardworking crew. It’s emotional blackmail—unbelievable!!!

The staff, though, was absolutely lovely—housekeeping, waiters, everyone was so kind!

**Final verdict:** NEVER AGAIN with COSTA. For them, it’s all about MAXIMIZING PROFITS. If I ever go on another cruise, it’ll be with MSC or another line.

Hi everyone,

What a joy to be back here and pick up where we left off after all these months of hiatus.

I hope you’ll enjoy the story of this little trip around the Eastern Mediterranean. This cruise was the perfect way to satisfy our longing to return to Greece and Istanbul. The end of the season, until late November, is the best time to visit the Mediterranean in my opinion—when climate disruptions don’t get in the way.

Departing from Trieste, our stops were Katakolon, Piraeus, Kusadasi, Istanbul, Corfu, and Bari, before returning to Trieste and then Venice, where we planned a very short 24-hour stay.

We left home at 6:15 AM—our first cruise departure since moving to Normandy. What I miss most about living in the Gard is how close we were to Marseille Airport. No more hopping over to Marignane in an hour; now we have to plan for a three-hour trip to CDG, even under the best conditions on an early Sunday morning.

It was impossible to book a hotel night before our flight because, starting in April, the Ibis was priced at 450 € per night, and the Mercure was flirting with 800 €—breakfast not included, of course. 😏

I had a feeling there must’ve been a conference or something going on… Turns out, it was just the auto show. They simply adjusted the room prices to match the cost of the cars. 😛

Our flight took us to Venice, where we caught a FlixBus to Trieste. We arrived at Trieste’s train station in the afternoon and walked to our hotel in the city center.

After treating ourselves to an amazing pizza at a restaurant (Di Napoli Maestri Pizzaioli, Via Armando Diaz 10) for a very reasonable price, we enjoyed the mild evening temperature while exploring the stunning buildings of this charming city by night. These magnificent structures are a testament to the city’s past. Trieste became Austrian in 1382 due to its complicated relationship with Venice, and it wasn’t until 1918, at the end of World War I, that it became Italian again. The city’s lighting beautifully highlights the architecture of the buildings.

The terraces were lively, and the atmosphere was so warm and inviting that we wanted to stay out even longer.



But we’d been up since 4 AM, so we were happy to retreat to the quiet of our hotel, located in the pedestrian center just a few steps from the port (Urban Hotel Design—highly recommended).

More to come soon.

Excellent bike path almost entirely off-road, with a really scenic route. We joined it in Bad Tölz after coming from Strasbourg and left it 100 km before Venice to stay in the mountains and connect with the end of the Via Claudia, which is probably on next year’s program. The trail is often on packed gravel, but even though some short sections aren’t great, our 32C tires were enough—though wider would’ve been better. Mostly wild camping, often by a lake or river. The signage is top-notch. The only downside is the noise from cars in some valleys—out of sight but not out of earshot.

Sites that explain it better than I can: https://italy-cycling-guide.info/ An English site—check the INTERNATIONAL CYCLE ROUTES section.

It’s almost *too* detailed—a 1:200,000 map is plenty.

And here’s a photo to inspire you!

Preamble

June 2024. While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way. The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km. It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.



In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?

And the answers? Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan. Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable. But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give. Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom. A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain. But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.

Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing. And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality. When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual. No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.

This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.

Now, all that was left was to walk. April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.