Hi there,

I’ve been reading conflicting info about whether an Indian visa might be required for a few-hour layover in Mumbai.

Do we need anything besides the Sri Lankan ETA if we’re just transiting through India without leaving Terminal 2 at the airport? We’re flying from Brussels via Frankfurt and then Mumbai with Lufthansa.

Thanks so much—I’m totally lost here! 😅

Hi there,

We’d like to travel overland from Turkey to India in our converted van, but there are very few options these days. Crossing Iran seems risky and not particularly safe. Has anyone here done it? If so, which route did you take to minimize safety concerns?

Thanks for your replies, Julie 😎

Hi there, I bought a flight ticket with Air India departing from Paris and arriving in Bangkok with a layover in Delhi. I didn’t include my third given name when booking, but it’s on my passport. Could this cause a problem at boarding?

Also, with an 8-hour layover in Delhi—no need to recheck bags or leave the international zone—do I need an Indian transit visa?

Thanks for your help!

Hi everyone!

I have a question about organizing my entry into India.

I have a flight from Paris to Delhi, then Delhi to Leh. Both flights are part of the same booking with Air India, so they handle baggage transfer. I have a 20-hour layover in Delhi and I’d like to leave the airport to sleep at a hotel. Is that possible?

Also, for the e-visa, Leh airport isn’t available as an entry point. I was planning to list Delhi as my entry point and go through immigration there. But since I’ve been to India before, I remember that re-entering the airport can be tricky... Plus, I’ll be "leaving" my luggage behind during that time. I’m not sure if that’s okay.

Does this seem doable to you?

I’ve been to India twice before, but I’ve never been in this situation!

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Laura

Hi, I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).

Thanks for your help.

Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!

Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.



I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!



Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.

Hello everyone!

We're off! After exploring the north, the four friends have now discovered the south. We’re excited to share this new travel journal, dedicated to our little group and our strong friendship, written by Richard and illustrated with Kate’s photos. I’ll chime in from time to time with practical tips.

First of all, a big thank you to everyone on VoyageForum who helped us plan this trip. It would’ve been quite different if we’d just relied on guidebooks.

The itinerary lasted just over 3 weeks: Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Thanjavur, the Chettinad region, Madurai, Munnar, Munroe Island, Cochin, and Chennai. We traveled by train, taxi, and private car with a driver, took a domestic flight, and stayed in guesthouses, Airbnb apartments, and hotels. For each of us, including flights, the total budget barely reached 2000 €, and we didn’t hold back—knowing we avoid resorts and love street food and small Indian restaurants.

Prologue

This journal recounts a trip to Rajasthan that’s already over a year old and that I’ve only now found the chance to write about. The summer of 2024 marked my return to India—my tenth trip—after six long years away since my last solo wanderings in Tamil Nadu in 2018 (the journal of which is published on this site). That absence was partly (but not only) due to the long COVID and post-COVID period, which saw a complete halt and then a major slowdown in global tourism. To top it off, Voyage Forum announced its closure in an end-of-the-world atmosphere. A sad time for our favorite social activity…

A few weeks after returning from Rajasthan, I tried to motivate myself to start writing a journal to publish on a forum claiming to be VF’s successor, which I’d eventually signed up for out of desperation. But I kept hesitating and putting the project off because, for one, I no longer have the time I used to. For another, the vibe wasn’t really taking off on that forum—it was overrun with ads and not very active, contrary to what its host’s name suggested. Despite its good intentions and commendable role as a stopgap, it also turned out to be very impractical to use, especially when you don’t have much time like me. I’ll admit I’d occasionally check back on VF to see if anything was happening. But all the discussions remained frozen in time, stuck in that fateful year, 2020. Then, rumors swirled online about shady reasons behind its closure, leaving little room for hope.

And then, one fine morning, I got a message at work from Marien informing me that VF had reopened. What a huge surprise! Even though the forum’s “end” had played out in a somewhat apocalyptic atmosphere, the memories of passionate and heated discussions, the frank debates, and the useful exchanges that made this site a traveler’s goldmine and a unique hub of conviviality all came rushing back to me like a breath of fresh air. I finally saw a sign and tried to motivate myself to find the time to publish the journal of this tenth trip to India and fifth to Rajasthan. But in the end, I got bogged down in professional and family obligations and never managed to find the time to get started. That’s now fixed, though, because I had two reasons for wanting to do it: I find that looking back on a trip to tell others about it is a highly beneficial introspective exercise. Also, I thought this journal could be useful to other travelers on a few points.

Because, “do we really need yet another journal about Rajasthan?” you might rightly ask! Especially in a time when so many journals about the “Land of Kings” have been published since VF’s return, not to mention the countless stories you can already find online about this region, one of India’s most touristy. And I’d add, why go back to Rajasthan for a fifth time, where I’ve already dragged my feet more than enough—through its forts, deserts, temples, cities, villages, bumpy roads, train stations, tasty street food stalls, cheap guesthouses, and more? Where some might see just another overhyped tourist destination full of the same old *Arabian Nights* clichés, worn to a thread, that I mentioned earlier, when there’s so much else to see in India? Well, first because it’s a magnificent country I never tire of, where I started an academic study and made so many connections. It’s also packed with places where you won’t find a single tourist (right, Marie-Jo?), even in the heart of well-trodden paths and classic itineraries. And most importantly, as I said earlier, things have changed in recent years. First, after six years without traveling far, the urge to go back to India was getting stronger. But this time, no more solo trips (often) or duo adventures (sometimes)—now it’s a team of four that has to come along! And even if you can argue with that, what better place than Rajasthan to introduce India to people who’ve never seen it? To kids you want to amaze? Plus, traveling with your new little family to your favorite country isn’t the same as going solo in often spartan conditions that only affect you. It’s a different challenge, but ultimately probably much harder. So, is it really reasonable to take two kids to India, including a two-year-old baby? That’s one of the main goals of this journal (but not the only one)—to try to answer that question.

As you can tell, it’s not so much the destination but the slightly unusual setup of this trip that, in my opinion, will make this journal interesting. Despite my experience and expertise (yes, I dare say it) in India, there were plenty of questions before we finalized the plan and said, “Alright, let’s go!” The questions were flying for us parents. Is it wise to travel to India with a two-year-old? What would we do (it happened) if the kids got very sick? Would they be able to handle a road trip on Rajasthan’s bumpy, dusty roads using public transport? Could they handle the shock of such a different world—the dirt, poverty, pollution, noise (…and the smell, as they say), the spicy food, monkeys, mosquitoes, snakes, tigers, leopards, and so on? In short, all the clichés that I usually joke about suddenly became potential realities. Another concern: as a mixed Franco-African family (not me, but my partner and her oldest), wouldn’t we risk not always being well received, given what you sometimes hear about that in India? How would Indians react to seeing a mixed-race family, the ultimate taboo in a country of purity and social segregation, which would undoubtedly raise many questions for them? Of course, not everything went as expected… Because, as you know, with India—and what makes it charming for some—there are always complications: sometimes where you don’t expect them… and sometimes where you do. I’ll go into detail about that in the journal to come (not right away) and in the final review (even later). These experiences could be useful to travelers who find themselves in similar situations and have the same questions we did before embarking on such a journey. And maybe it’ll spark the curiosity of those who aren’t concerned and will read yet another Rajasthan journal, but with its own unique twists.

Despite my unchanged constraints, which mean I have little time to write this, I don’t want to rush the story, so I’ll take my time. There will probably be lulls. I hope that won’t stop people from coming to react, debate, share their impressions, or ask for information.

Hi! Sri Lanka has announced it could run out of fuel in the coming weeks if the Strait of Hormuz remains blocked. The government has implemented a mandatory four-day workweek to save oil, and there are long lines at gas stations due to fears of an early shortage. In Vietnam, the government has warned all airlines that flights will need to be reduced due to a lack of kerosene. The country imports two-thirds of its jet fuel from China and Thailand, but both countries have now banned exports out of fear of domestic shortages. The state is asking airlines to plan ahead and park aircraft to drastically reduce operations, starting with domestic flights and then international ones. International carriers will also need to cut back on their rotations. This will begin in the coming days. 🙁

hi there I’m heading to Sri Lanka for a month from January 6th to February 3rd, then I’ve got a flight to the Maldives from February 3rd to 15th, and... I’m coming back to Sri Lanka for one night from the 15th to the 16th to catch my flight back to France. Because my flight ticket is from January 6th to February 16th... I’m wondering about my travel authorization. Will I get a transit authorization for one day to board my flight? Thanks for shedding some light on this!

Hi everyone!

So happy the forum is back—I’ve been part of it since 2012! ☺️

After lots of twists and turns with Sri Lanka’s visa (called ETA) over the past few months, here’s a quick recap of the current situation for travelers:

- You need to get an ETA, either online or on arrival. I recommend doing it online because it’s cheaper (here’s a step-by-step guide to avoid common pitfalls: https://www.tongsetsrilanka.com/mode-demploi-pour-eta-au-sri-lanka)

- It’s valid for 30 days and costs $50 online or $60 on arrival.

- It was supposed to be free starting October 1st, but due to the elections and Parliament being dissolved, that didn’t happen. Stay tuned in December in case the topic comes up again.

- The online ETA is recorded in your passport, so you don’t need to show any documents, but I’d still recommend traveling with the confirmation.

- If you didn’t receive the confirmation email, you can check the status on the official ETA website.

- The only official site is eta.gov.lk. Watch out for agency websites pretending to be the official one.

- Avoid filling out your ETA on the French version—it’s buggy. Use my guide and do it in English instead. 😅

Happy travels! Caroline

Hello my fellow travelers,

I’m leaving for 43 days in India from January 19, 2026, to March 1. How do I handle my e-visa if I don’t necessarily want a one-year visa? The one-month one will be too short... darn it!!

I just found out there’s an additional formality for the visa that came into effect on October 1. Could someone explain to me what it involves and exactly what I need to do? I’d really appreciate it—thank you so much in advance!

Wishing you all wonderful end-of-year celebrations, and may 2026 be filled with love and travels for each of you.

Régine

Hey fellow travelers! 🙂 I’m heading to India in January with a tourist multi-entry ETA (is it still called an e-visa?). First things first, if I’ve understood correctly: I can enter and exit India as many times as I want, as long as my total stay doesn’t exceed 180 days in a full year and no single stay goes over 90 days. Okay, that’s the theory. Now, how does it work in practice? I plan to spend 3 months in India (Rajasthan, then the Ganges Valley up to Varanasi, then Sikkim), then head to Nepal for another 3 months (Kathmandu, Pokhara), and return to India for 3 more months before flying back to France. But here’s the thing—I’ve got the impression (maybe I misunderstood) that renewing the Indian visa has to be done in Kathmandu or Pokhara, and only in one of those two Nepali cities. Yet, on *Le Routard*, I thought I read that you just need to "cross the border and come back," meaning you can enter Nepal at any border point, which would be way more practical... Imagine someone who wants to spend 6 months in northern India and starts from Shimla—they’d have to travel all the way to Kathmandu, then back to Shimla, crossing a big chunk of Nepal just to renew their Indian visa. That seems pretty convoluted, especially since the northwest border with India is so far from Kathmandu. I used this example because I originally wanted to spend 6 months only in northern India, and while waiting for clear answers, I’ve planned an alternative route (the one I described at the start of this post).

Could someone explain exactly how this Nepal border crossing thing works for renewing an Indian visa (and getting another 90 days, within the 180-day annual limit, of course)? How long does it take? How much does it cost?

Can’t wait to hear from you, and thanks in advance for your valuable insights! 🙂 !

Hi there, I’m looking for info on the visa for India: duration, cost, and a reliable website to apply. Thanks!

hi I was almost done with my e-visa application, and when I selected the payment method, I chose Razorpay. It glitched, and I got a server error 500/404... No matter how many times I go back to "complete partially filled form," it doesn’t work... What should I do? Thanks for your help!

Hi, I really struggled to fill out the e-visa form. I uploaded my passport and everything correctly, but when it came to payment, it failed three times (on different devices). I'm a bit disheartened and don’t know what to do next. Is using PayPal a better solution?

Thanks for your tips. Marsyork

Hi there

I’ve received my e-visa for India. Now, if I understand correctly, I need to confirm the status of my ETA. Is the ETA the same as the e-visa? Do I need to print the document? Thanks

Hey fellow travelers! 🙂 I'm planning a trip to India in January 2025 for 3 months. This will be my second trip to India. The first time was in 2009, when I was just 21 (doesn’t make me feel any younger!). My issue is this: on the India visa application form, I’m asked if I’ve been to India before, and if so, to provide the visa number from that trip. The problem is, since 2009, I’ve changed passports (and no longer have the old one), so I can’t fill out the form correctly. I thought about answering "no" to the question ("Have you been to India before?"), but that stresses me out because I hate "cheating" or lying. Especially since I figure they might cross-check their databases, and it could seem odd that I answered "no" when I’ve actually been there before. Maybe my visa could even be denied. So, I’d love to know if any of you have been in this situation and how you handled it. Looking forward to your replies! 🙂

Today I ended up being denied boarding at CDG. I booked the trip through a physical travel agency with no assistance for the visa application. I applied in plenty of time and got the approval. Except I put the 9th (the day I left France) as the date instead of the 10th, which is the arrival date in India. That’s what caused the denial. I’m guessing I don’t have any recourse? Thanks for your replies.

We're leaving on January 28th for a trip around Rajasthan. I'm trying to fill out the online form to get our visa, but when I reach the 3rd page and hit submit to move to the next one, everything gets erased and I can't continue. I've tried from multiple computers, our iPhones, and different browsers—nothing works. Has anyone else run into this issue? Thanks

Hi everyone, Two years ago, I got a 5-year visa. But I had to change my plans and haven’t used it yet. Do you think it’s still valid? I’d like to go to India at the beginning of the year. I’ve got a big doubt. Do you know where I can find this info? Thanks a bunch!

Hi there, I have an e-visa valid until 11/8/24. I’m heading back to India on 11/3 for 5 weeks, so I applied for a new 5-year e-visa. Problem: in the visa section, I didn’t enter the number of my current visa—I put NA (not applicable). I’ve already submitted the application and can’t edit it anymore. I haven’t paid yet. 1) If I pay, could the 5-year visa be denied because of this NA? 2) If I don’t pay, will the application be canceled? If so, how soon? Thanks

hi, Is it possible to enter Sri Lanka with a continuation ticket to India without having a valid Indian visa for the planned departure date from Sri Lanka? That way, I could get my visa during my stay in Sri Lanka. I have a valid Indian visa that expires mid-stay, and I can only apply for a new one once the current one has expired. Thanks

Hi there,

I can’t seem to complete the payment for my trip on the IRCTC (Indian Railways) site. No matter which payment method I choose, my Visa card isn’t accepted. Has anyone here managed to do it, and if so, could you share the method you used? Thanks in advance! Charlie

Hi everyone, after a trip to India last October, I stayed in touch with an Indian guide who speaks French. His dream is to visit France. To get his visa, he told me he needs a letter from me confirming that I met him during my trip to his country and that I’m able to host him. He has other contacts in France, and he mentioned he’s asked them for the same thing. I’m reaching out to see if his request is legitimate or if he’s taking advantage of my kindness. I’m sorry if I offend anyone—it’s not my intention. I’m very spontaneous and don’t want to put myself in a bad situation. Thanks for your feedback. Have a great weekend. Florence/florie73

It seems there’s a ferry from Nagapattinam to Jaffna in India. Has anyone here taken this ferry before? My main question is how to get to Nagapattinam—by train, bus? And from which town further south, of course. Thanks, friends!

Gaston

Hi everyone, Second trip to India (15 years later 🙂!!) during the last two weeks of March 2026. Arriving in Delhi for a trip that’s not really planned out—Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Agra, maybe more!!... No set duration for stops or a precise order. If any traveler happens to be around... It’d be great to share a leg of the journey and a travel moment!! I see some folks had trouble with the e-visa? I haven’t done mine yet—how’s it going??? Thanks, see you soon. Jérôme

India is introducing an electronic arrival card for foreign travelers. The measure is effective for all travelers starting October 1st.

India is now adopting the electronic arrival card. Presenting this "e-Arrival Card" is now mandatory for all arrivals in India as of October 1, 2025. This formality replaces the paper card previously filled out on the plane or upon arrival. India aims to streamline traveler tracking. The requirement applies to travelers of all nationalities, both adults and minors, for all entry points into India. It’s an additional mandatory formality alongside the e-Visa or visa. The e-Arrival Card must be completed online within three days prior to arrival in the country. Available in English only, it’s free and can be done on the official Indian authorities' website. The document is valid only for the declared arrival day. "This means you’ll need to complete it for each new arrival," clarifies RapideVisa, an agency specializing in visa services. Travelers must provide standard information to obtain the document (passport number, purpose of stay, countries visited in the 6 days before arrival, etc.).

Once completed, a document with a QR code to present to authorities upon arrival is generated. With this new system, India aims to facilitate traveler tracking and reduce congestion at airport counters. Nearly 19 million international visitors traveled to India in 2023. Among them, 189,000 were French.

Source: https://www.lechotouristique.com/article/inde-une-nouvelle-formalite-obligatoire-pour-voyager

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WaPqVyUmuY

Hello Everybody,

I already have my flight ticket—departing from Nice on December 2 at 12:30 PM and returning on December 26 at midnight—for southern India... (gorgeous!)

I’ve been creating my travel journals for 15 years, and this one is ready too. The guesthouse and hotel (few) reservations are made... The itinerary is super nice...

And the Christmas festivities to see as well!

Unfortunately, due to health issues, my travel companion had to cancel this trip.

So, I’m looking for someone just like her... and like me. Fun, easygoing, friendly, and funny.

Someone who loves to laugh, who’s okay with transportation (buses, trains, rickshaws (tuk-tuks), bikes (very little... just on an island))...

Who’ll leave their worries at home, has no health issues, and enjoys going out during the day and in the evening for a drink.

I’ll get my visa this month... If someone is interested and decides quickly, we could definitely be on the same flight... I’ll obviously show you my itinerary...

No need to reach out if you’re indecisive or just curious—thanks for understanding... With less than three months until departure, we need to move fast...

The trip is all set...

23 nights on-site, flight ticket, visa, excursions, food, etc.—budget around 2600 €. Not bad, right?

On the agenda: various visits, endless rice fields and tea plantations, beaches, markets, chilling sometimes—in short, pure happiness.

People with difficult personalities or who are easily annoyed (lol) are excluded... Just someone nice who loves to have fun and live peacefully!

I work on my travel journals for 4 months, so this is about making the trip a success and being happy... I’ve been creating my own itineraries for 15 years...

My itinerary is ready... If you’re sure you can be free for the entire stay from December 2 to 26 (I’m not ruling out a travel companion), everyone will have their own room for the whole trip—I’ve booked everything accordingly...

A passport valid for at least 6 months after the return date is mandatory!

I managed to get a round-trip flight ticket for 580 € with very little waiting time (1.5 and 2.5-hour layovers... (Iberia operated by Qatar... With a bit of luck, we could be on the same flight).... I’ll apply for my visa online by the end of September... So, be sure of yourself so we can meet up quickly and possibly validate our visas together and book your flight ticket...

Welcome,

Caroline

Hi there, Who’s going to be in Ladakh this summer solo and up for a north-south trek in Zanskar? I’m planning an off-trail route… the kind of path where, like last year, I ran into a bear. Pretty rare, let me tell ya!!! Option: a guide and one or two mules to travel light and support the locals, or go self-sufficient—we’ll see. I’ve got a contact, so I can sort this out! No agency, just a direct arrangement with a local from Kanji, a remote hamlet. Open to discussion.

Jérôme