Hi everyone,

We’re thinking of booking an "all-inclusive" trip so we don’t have to worry too much... for a week at the beginning of next September, but we’re torn between several destinations: Crete? Cyprus? Sicily? Sardinia? The only thing we’re really looking for is sunshine. Thanks in advance for any tips you can share!

Hi there,

I’m heading to Sicily for the 3rd time at the end of August. I’ve planned to spend 2 nights in the Aeolian Islands. I know you’ll say—rightly so—that it’s too short, but I can’t do any better. I’ve already been to Vulcano.

Which island is the most worth visiting for its stunning landscapes and views?

At this point, I was thinking of spending 1 night on Stromboli (and doing the ascent) and 1 night on Lipari, Salina, or Panarea.

Thanks for your tips, personal experiences, and have a great weekend!

Virginie

After 3 nights in Naples, we want to visit the Amalfi Coast. Which town would be the best base?

Hi, I’ll be in Barcelona at the end of October. I can choose to be there over the weekend or during the week. Probably 4 nights. Is there a big difference in terms of crowds in the city and in the museums?

Little or no difference would simplify my itinerary on the way.

Thanks

Hi, it's my first time taking a plane and I chose EasyJet for a Geneva -> Barcelona flight. I booked my ticket. I received my booking reference by email, but I don’t see the actual ticket (barcode or QR code?). Then I checked in to get the boarding pass with the flight details, QR code, etc. But does this boarding pass act as the ticket? Because I’ve seen several times online that the flight ticket and the boarding pass aren’t the same thing.

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I’m planning a wine trip in the Alentejo by car. Starting from Marbella, I can either follow the coast and stop over near Huelva, or head north and stop over near Aracena. I’m wondering which route is more enjoyable and which village is the most interesting for an overnight stop. Thanks

Hi everyone,

The last time we saw the Dolomites—briefly—was back in 1982. Obviously, things have changed dramatically since then, as few Italian tourist spots are spared from crowds these days.

So, I have two questions:

1) When? Which period offers relatively good weather and moderate crowds? I was thinking October, but are the cable cars still running then? And what about accommodations?

2) Where? Which "must-see" spots should we skip? On the other hand, which places should we prioritize?

We’d like to do a few hikes—moderate in terms of time, distance, and elevation gain.

Thanks for your tips!

Hi there, we’re going on a cruise and I’d like to know what time the shows are at the theater so we can pick our dinner times. Thanks for your help

Between COVID waves, our Plan B took us to Venice from Trento. Quite the journey, indeed.

Hardly anyone in the City of Doges. The photos even won me a People's Choice Award at an exhibition in 2023.

And La Fenice... What beauty.

Hello, I’d like to travel from Lille in the North of France to Italy safely and on a budget. Preferably by bus. If you have other ideas, I’m all ears! I’m interested in any suggestions. How can I get to Italy? Which city is the cheapest? The most visited? Is it safe, please? Thanks for your replies. Best regards,

I’d love a nice spot by the sea in Andalusia in December

Hi everyone, My husband and I will be celebrating our 10th wedding anniversary. We’d love to return to Italy. We’re torn between Venice and Lake Como in Bellagio. Could you share your thoughts? We visited Venice exactly 10 years ago—we loved it, but I’m not sure if Lake Como is worth it even more. Is it a truly romantic and heart-stopping destination for this special occasion? Thanks for your advice! Sarah

Hello everyone, Foreword: I have the moral elegance to keep disparaging comments to private messages. I expect the same in return! I won’t engage with "camel" or "motorcycle" avatars.

Andalusia in all its glory—that’s what I’m offering to a companion who’d love to share every morning of the days to come with me... From Cartagena to Lagos (Portugal), roughly speaking, if I had to sum up my desires. More precisely, 5 to 7 days in each of these towns: Cartagena – Carchuna – Córdoba – Seville – Huelva – Lagos. Having been there twice and visited part of the region, I already have a good idea of what’s interesting or spectacular.

Knowing about the Moors’ historical presence isn’t essential, but it helps understand certain architectural features.

When? Departure between February 20th and 25th, 2026. Why this time? We’ll escape the gloom, rain, and chill that will have settled over France (I’m speaking for my region). Plus, no matter where you go, there’ll be very few tourists at this time, so queues are much shorter, and accommodation rates are at their "low season" prices! (We also gain about an hour of daylight at this latitude.) I’ve already done some research (tedious but necessary...) on 5 towns (Cartagena – Carchuna – Córdoba – Seville – Huelva) plus Lagos (Portugal) regarding accommodation—open to discussion to agree on which to choose.

Of course, I know what to see and do in each area. Up for debate...

Budget? I’d rather discuss that in person. For my part, I’m financially comfortable.

Temperatures: around 16°C during the day in Cartagena, about 18°C in Seville, and around 18°C in Huelva (maybe 1 or 2°C warmer), with very little rain!

Vehicle? A reliable, well-maintained Citroën van. It can carry 2 bikes so we can explore some stunning regional natural parks. Plus, we’ll visit some massive cities—I’m especially thinking of Seville! The driver? Very cautious.

My advantage? I speak the language well. It’s pretty much a must, otherwise, you’re guaranteed to feel down after 2 days (laugh).

Lunch: picnics more for the joy of being outdoors than to save money. Dinner at local restaurants or fondas.

Preference for a companion living within a 2-hour drive of Castres (81), to make meet-ups easier as we "get to know each other" and finalize plans. Exception: if you live within 25 km of La Roche-sur-Yon—I’m considering moving there.

Hello, I’m planning a trip for about ten people—seniors—to Friuli Venezia Giulia in September 2026.

Day 1 – We’ll likely arrive in Treviso and head first to UDINE for two nights. Day 2 – Morning in Udine, then an afternoon visit to Cividale del Friuli. Travel by local train. Day 3 – We’ll leave for a quick visit to Gorizia before heading to TRIESTE for one night. Day 4 – Visit Trieste and Miramare. At the end of the day, take the train to Cervignano, then a local bus to Grado. Stay in Grado for three nights. Day 5 – Explore central Grado and take a boat tour to the island of Barbana. Day 6 – Relaxation day in Grado (as requested by the participants). Day 7 – Visit Aquileia and possibly Palmanova.

Day 8 – Return to the airport or maybe a quick detour to Venice. For the three days in Grado and the surrounding area, I was thinking of hiring a small bus with a driver. It seems like it’d be simpler—what do you think? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks for your feedback! MADAPOLAM

Hi there, I’m planning a one-week trip to Italy, with Milan and Rome as my destinations. I’ll be taking a bus to Milan with FlixBus (which I’m not thrilled about since it’s not a great company), and I’ll stay for two days. After that, I’ll take the train to Rome. I’d like to know if the bus station is far from downtown Milan. For the trip to Rome, I’m thinking of booking the train via Trainline—is that a good idea? Also, which station does the train leave from? I think there are two stations in Milan. Please share any info you can to help me prepare for the trip. Thanks a million!

Hi, I need your help because I’m stuck. I booked 6 flight tickets to Palermo on August 6th through the Lastminute site. The flight is operated by Air France, and I just realized my name is wrong. I immediately contacted Air France, who told me it’s up to Lastminute to make the change, but they say it’s Air France’s responsibility. I’m really anxious because I’m traveling with my two kids. Can you help me? Thanks

Hi everyone, I’m not sure if you can help us out. We’ll be in Venice from June 8th to 17th. We arrive at the airport on the 8th and planned to take the Alilaguna waterbus to St. Mark’s Square to get to our Airbnb. We’ve estimated arriving at St. Mark’s Square between 11 AM and 12 PM. We didn’t realize we’d be arriving on the day of the race.

Because of the Vogalonga race taking place on June 8th, is the Grand Canal still navigable? If not, from what time will it be accessible again?

Thanks, Jacques

It was the start of winter; I was freezing, and the mood wasn’t exactly joyful—Ukraine, 49.3... So I self-medicated: a week in Italy to hear laughter and that melodic language, and of course, to immerse myself in beauty for a while. I was looking for a destination: Florence. The choice was biased because I wanted to revisit *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus*. Then came the choice of airline: Vueling flies directly to Florence, but you’ve got to know how to handle Vueling—sometimes you make it to your destination, sometimes you’re left at the gate. It’s not expensive, but that’s about all it’s worth. Best to know their rules of the game. Plus, Vueling leaves from Orly, which is super easy to get to by metro. The gods were with me that day—Vueling actually got me to Florence. On arrival, the temperature was better than forecast, and I knew the days were slightly longer in Italy (and shorter in Stockholm). And the Italian language was floating in the air... I took the new tram that takes you to the heart of the city, near the great "cheesecake" that’s said to mark the superiority of the Renaissance over Europe’s sublime Gothic cathedrals. I walked around the big pastry and turned onto *my* street, Via dei Servi. Along the way, I stewed over my guilt for not admiring the sublime *Duomo*; I hoped no police had detected my rebellious, deviant mindset. I’d chosen a hotel on the stunning Piazza della Santissima Annunziata—I’ll even share its name, that’s the VF spirit: it’s the Hotel Due Fontane. And that’s the real point of this post: until Easter, you can treat yourself to a room in a very charming hotel for around 60 €, breakfast buffet included! To do this, book on Booking.com and make it clear you’ll return the next day with a new reservation at that price. You’ll have left your things in the luggage room to move into a new room in the evening. I didn’t have to play that game since the reception gave me a long-term stay at a reduced rate. The next day, the kind barista drew a perfect, beautiful flower on my cappuccino. That man was the smile and good cheer of Italy. Florence had more to offer, and this time I wasn’t being picky like I was with the big white pastry: I had a date with *Primavera* and Venus. Off to the Uffizi; the weather was decent, much warmer than Paris, and the girls were laughing. Arriving at the Uffizi: had I bought a skip-the-line ticket? What for? I walked in subito and even got the winter discount rate. You’ll agree that when visiting a museum, it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or not. When I got to Botticelli’s room, I love being alone—I have the illusion of owning two of the most beautiful paintings in the world. There was one tourist there that day. We admired *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus* without getting in each other’s way; those young women painted so long ago show such beauty and radiate such elegance, especially in their faces. I hesitated about going to the Accademia, but David is worth a revisit. If a skip-the-line ticket is ever needed, it’s here. But no! I walked in subito! Usually, women don’t openly show their attraction, but you might hear "He’s cute" about a man. Around David, it’s amusing to see they’re not immune to the sight. Off to the Medici Chapels; entrance subita. I felt humbled by the princes’ munificence and the master’s works. Then it was time for a stroll—maybe a Mannerist painting at Santa Felicita (oh, miracle, it was open), or playing the game of comparing the two crucifixes, including Donatello’s, sipping a Spritz in a little bar with a view of the Ponte Vecchio, wandering Via Roma in the evening among the cheerful crowd and shops decked out for Christmas. Seeing the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine for its frescoes and the Italian Pantheon at Santa Croce (Napoleon’s first girlfriend is buried there). Italy, land of frescoes! Every evening, until I exhausted my pasta card, I enjoyed spaghetti on *my* Via dei Servi.

The point of this post: you can visit Florence at a very low cost, without impossible queues, and without tourist pressure, in reasonably warm weather until Easter. In May, the Due Fontane charges 220 to 250 €! For the rest, I may have rambled a bit. PS: Vueling stranded me on the way back; my punishment was staying an extra day in this incredibly welcoming city.

Hi there! I’d love to travel around Europe and I’ve been thinking about Spain—like Tenerife or other spots—or Albania to explore a bit of Europe. I’m a little nervous about going alone since it’ll be my first time traveling, but I’m friendly, a bit funny (or so I’ve been told), and really motivated. If any of you have specific destinations in mind and are looking for someone to join you anytime between May and August, let me know so we can chat! Looking forward to it! 🙂😇

hi, I'm having trouble getting an idea of what the weather's like in this region in winter. I'm thinking of going there the first week of January after spending New Year's Day in Madrid. Is that a good idea? Is it pleasant to walk around the small towns at this time of year? And by car? thanks a lot

Travel Journal: 21 Days in La Gomera and La Palma From February 6 to February 26, 2024

Tuesday, February 6 We left around 9 AM with our car, along with Pierre-Paul and Patricia, heading to the Bluepark parking lot in Bartenheim. As expected, we were awaited and left promptly for EuroAirport Basel. Took off at 12:25 PM for a 4-hour-15-minute flight under excellent conditions. Beautiful arrival in Tenerife with Teide in sight under a clear blue sky. Fifteen minutes later, we waited for bus No. 40 to Los Cristianos with quite a few other tourists, but we managed to find four seats. From the bus station, it was a 20-minute walk to our hotel. We checked into a lovely apartment for the four of us, complete with all the comforts. Outside, it was quite warm—at least 25°C! After dropping off our luggage, we went for a stroll. The immediate surroundings of the hotel held no interest for us: a modern, concrete area filled with hotels, bars, tourist agencies, and unappealing restaurants all offering the same bland international cuisine. Pat went to cool off at the pool, unfortunately overrun by loud, drunk English tourists. I took a walk to the paseo maritimo that leads to the port, skirting the seafront. The promenade was pleasant, but it could have been any seaside resort in the world—same old scene: a succession of bars with blaring music where many elderly people sipped cold beers waiting for the sunset, the backdrop a wall of resort-style hotels resembling rabbit hutches! Upon reaching the port, I scouted the route we’d take the next day to the Fred Olsen ferry. Back at the apartment, in the early evening, we looked for a non-touristy restaurant for dinner. Monique stopped a woman to ask her opinion! In this area, she told us, there’s no restaurant that serves Canarian or Spanish cuisine! The only place with decent restaurants is at the port. Off we went to the port, where we sat down at Al Bordo restaurant and ordered a seafood paella for four. Excellent, and at a very reasonable price (36 € for two). We returned to the hotel along the seafront.

Wednesday, February 7

Woke up at 6 AM. Had breakfast in the apartment with what we’d bought the day before at a supermarket. It was still dark when we left on foot toward the port, walking along the calm seafront at this early hour. Forty minutes later, we arrived and waited 10 minutes before the ferry docked. At 9:30 AM, we left the port of Los Cristianos for a 50-minute crossing on a calm sea under a beautiful blue sky. There were quite a few people on this large ferry, but many had no luggage, meaning they were visiting La Gomera for the day and would take the ferry back in the evening. Upon disembarking, we went straight to our rental car agency to pick up the car we’d booked online a few months earlier. It was a nice Peugeot 2008, spacious enough for the four of us and our luggage. We immediately took the beautiful road from San Sebastián that climbs directly into the mountains toward our rental in Vallehermoso. The road was in perfect condition—it seemed brand new, like all the others we’d take on this island later. This side of the island is very arid with little vegetation, and the terrain is particularly rugged, as it is throughout the island. We stopped at our first miradors, which would be followed by many more throughout our Canarian trip. Our first visit was to the small village of Agulo, perched on a promontory above the sea and at the foot of a high cliff. The village features typical Canarian houses with windows flush with the façade and black volcanic stone masonry on white or reddish-brown walls. The first recommended restaurant was already booked for a group, so we settled for the shaded terrace of the excellent El Alameda bar-restaurant. From Agulo, you can access the Abrante viewpoint via a winding road, where the view of Agulo, 600 meters below, is exceptional. A glass ledge over the void lets you test your fear of heights!

We drove to Vallehermoso to do our grocery shopping at the supermarket—a habit that would continue until the end of the trip. Our little house, "Casa rural El Encatadora," is located in a beautiful flower-filled valley a few kilometers west of Vallehermoso. Each of us had a bedroom with an en-suite bathroom, plus a living room, kitchen, and a small terrace overlooking the quiet street at the valley’s end, which didn’t bother us at all.

Thursday, February 8 The good weather seemed to follow us since our arrival in the Canary Islands. This morning, we took the road—still as beautiful and new—toward Arure, high up to the west. The landscape was magnificent, with breathtaking glimpses of the sea far below. In Arure, we parked in front of Conchita’s bar, where a hike (Rother No. 30) starts toward two viewpoints: Alojera, which we reached after 45 minutes on a lovely path. Monique, tired from the first steep climb, stopped at the first viewpoint and hitchhiked back to Arure. Meanwhile, we continued toward the second viewpoint, Los Barranquillos, where the view of the surroundings was partially hidden by misty clouds rising from the sea. The entire mountain is sculpted by ancient, endless terraces climbing until the slope becomes too steep for construction—visible traces of the hard work of past inhabitants trying to survive in a harsh environment. We had a decent lunch at La Conchita bar, then drove to the small seaside town of Puerto la Caleta, sheltered by an immense cliff plunging into the sea. Black sand beach, rough sea—despite our encouragement, Pat didn’t dare to swim! As for the old village of Caleta, it’s perched on the mountainside, and visiting it requires climbing steep, stair-filled alleys to discover a few traditional houses. Back at the casa, dinner in, and card games...

Vallehermoso

Friday, February 9 This morning, the sky was overcast, and the peaks around us were shrouded in clouds. We took the same road as yesterday to hike Las Creces. Quickly gaining altitude, we entered a thick fog—visibility was very limited. We stopped at the Las Creces parking lot; visibility improved, and the sun wasn’t far off. The hike is entirely within a beautiful laurel forest, with the sun playing hide-and-seek, but it wasn’t cold despite the altitude. After finishing the loop trail, we decided to picnic—not there, as it was too chilly—but on Vallehermoso’s beach, where we found a nice picnic area sheltered by large black rocks. A short digestive walk on the surrounding hill to admire the little beach from above. Back in Vallehermoso, we did some grocery shopping, then tried to return to the casa—only to find ourselves locked out because we’d left the key in the lock inside! After several attempts and with the help of Yéli, a relative of the owner we called for help, we were finally able to get back in!

Saturday, February 10

It rained last night, and the sky remained overcast. Monique decided to rest this morning. PP, Pat, and I set off on the hike that starts from the house toward the Marichal reservoir. The sun wasn’t far off, and by 11 AM, it was fully out. The pleasant hike passed by many flower-filled gardens and orchards—orange, lemon, and mandarin trees in fruit. The path climbed gently toward the reservoir, where the view of the Cano rock dominating the landscape was magnificent. The last part of the climb was a bit tough, overgrown with lush vegetation, and the trail was slippery from last night’s rain. We descended via a different, much more pleasant path and returned to the casa just in time for lunch, prepared by Monique. This valley is rich with its many farmers and market gardeners who’ve cultivated the entire valley, taking advantage of the water flowing down from the mountain, captured upstream and redistributed through countless pipes snaking along the paths. Numerous tanks also store water during dry periods. The houses are scattered across both sides of the valley, and these colorful little homes add a beautiful touch to the landscape. The many palm trees give this valley a distinctly tropical feel—you could almost imagine yourself in the Caribbean. Add to that some salsa music drifting from a hut where farmers were working, and the picture is complete. A well-chilled beer apéro capped off a lovely morning. The afternoon was dedicated to rest, relaxation, reading, and games.

Sunday, February 11 The blue sky returned, though a few clouds still capped the highest peaks. Today, we visited Garajonay National Park, which covers the highest central mountains. Up there, we were above the clouds, and the panoramas from the various viewpoints were stunning: first, Cherelepin, accessible from the Laguna Grande parking lot, then Alto de Garajonay, offering an exceptional view of Teide—over 3,000 meters high—emerging from the clouds on Tenerife, far in the distance. We continued to the Los Roques viewpoints, then stopped for lunch at the Degollada de Peraza restaurant, where the view of the barranco was impressive. We descended toward San Sebastián and checked into our new lodging, La Cabezada, located in the countryside about 3 km above San Sebastián. It’s a small apartment adjacent to the owner’s, with a lovely terrace overlooking the surrounding mountains and surrounded by a beautiful garden. Apéro, then dinner on our beautiful terrace.

Monday, February 12 This morning, we went down to visit San Sebastián de La Gomera: its old tower, main street with some beautiful traditional houses, and the Church of the Assumption. Back at the casa for lunch. In the afternoon, Pat, PP, and I set off on the short hike from San Sebastián beach to La Guancha beach. We drove down and parked on the beach. The path climbs along the hill overlooking San Sebastián, passes by the tall Christ statue dominating the landscape, and roughly follows the coast down to the isolated Guancha beach. A beautiful hike under a hot sun, and a swim was welcome, even if the beach and sea access weren’t very comfortable due to large pebbles and quickly deepening water. Apart from two nudist bathers, there was no one on this beach. We returned the same way.

Tuesday, February 13 Rest day. We went down to town to stroll and do some shopping. I took the opportunity to visit the parador, beautifully situated above the city in a lovely garden overlooking the port and town. Together, we went for a cuba libre at the "Cuba Libre" bar, then had lunch at Breñusca (mediocre paella!). Back at the casa, then we went back down to town to see a carnival parade, a "passacalles," which actually passed an hour earlier than scheduled. Oh well.

Wednesday, February 14 Each to their own program this morning. Pat went swimming at San Sebastián beach, Monique rested at the casa, and PP and I set off on the hike from Playa de Avalos to the Ermita de Guadalupe on Playa del Cangrejo. It wasn’t easy to find the right road or the parking spot, but we managed. The path seemed to have suffered landslides, according to a sign at the trailhead! We decided to check it out, ready to turn back if it seemed too dangerous. In the end, apart from one or two slightly tricky spots where we had to climb a pile of rocks, the trail remained passable, though a bit vertigo-inducing in places. The narrow path clings to very vertical cliffs nearly 300 meters above sea level! But what a magnificent view. At one point, the trail runs alongside a wall of basaltic pipes. We returned via the drivable track that parallels the trail a bit lower. Back at the house for lunch. In the late afternoon, we returned to town to attend the "Entierro de las Sardinas" (Burial of the Sardine), which closes the Canarian carnival festivities. While waiting, we strolled through the parador’s gardens and had mojitos in town. Around 9 PM, we heard the noise and cries of the mourners. The procession advanced, led by a large papier-mâché sardine on a float, surrounded by wailing mourners. The procession headed toward the sea, where the sardine was burned, and a mini fireworks display ended the procession. It was all very good-natured, and everyone had fun. We ended the evening with dinner at a good fish restaurant, El Pajar.

Entierro de la Sardina in San Sebastián de La Gomera

Thursday, February 15

Woke up at 5:15 AM. The only suitable ferry was at 7 AM, which would get us to La Palma by late morning rather than evening. We packed our bags, had breakfast, then headed to the port, left our rental car, and boarded the ferry to Tenerife, from where we’d continue to La Palma. Calm sea, beautiful sun—by 10:30 AM, we disembarked in La Palma. We picked up our car and immediately headed to our new apartment in Breña Alta. It’s a large apartment with a superb terrace facing the sea, fully equipped and very comfortable. The hosts recommended Casa Goyo restaurant, near the airport and close to us. It’s a restaurant with many small rooms, some of which can be reserved for families. The fish-based cuisine (chipirones, pulpo) was excellent, hearty, and reasonably priced. Since it’s in the airport’s flight path, we occasionally heard planes landing. Quick and efficient service. Afterward, we visited Santa Cruz de La Palma, which reminded us of the historic quarters of La Orotava in Tenerife or the capital of Gran Canaria.

Friday, February 16

Beautiful weather, blue sky. We headed to the San Bartolo viewpoint toward the northeast coast, then to the lovely village of San Andrés, which we explored. From there, we walked along the shore to the natural pools of Charco Azul, where we swam in the cool but "swimmable" sea. Back in San Andrés for lunch at the "San Andrés" restaurant on the beautiful church square. Very good fish-based meal. We got back in the car and continued along the north coast to the port of Espindola and the natural pools of Fajana near the Cumplida lighthouse. A fairly strong wind whipped up beautiful waves crashing onto the rocky coast in bursts of foam. Back in Santa Cruz, we stopped at the Mercadona supermarket to buy fresh shrimp for dinner. San Andrés

Saturday, February 17

Uniform blue sky, even on the heights. We took the beautiful road that winds up to the summit of the Caldera de Taburiente. Several viewpoints offer 360° views of the entire island and beyond: you can make out La Gomera, El Hierro, and, of course, Tenerife with the perfect triangle of Teide. We parked at the Los Andes viewpoint parking lot and started our hike to Pico de la Cruz along a trail following the ridge, offering superb views into the caldera. We got back in the car and passed by the Roque de los Muchachos astronomical complex, composed of numerous observatories, some with very aesthetic mirror telescopes. We hiked from the Roque de los Muchachos parking lot to the various viewpoints, always as impressive. Picnic on site, then back to Santa Cruz. We stopped by our car dealer because the oil warning light came on—better safe than sorry. The representative reassured us but preferred to give us a Fiat Cross SUV instead. The Caldera de Taburiente

Sunday, February 18 The weather was a bit mixed, with cloudy patches. We set off to hike the Barranco de la Cuba de Galga. Unfortunately, the Los Tilos trail had been closed for several months due to a major landslide. The parking lot by the road was already quite full, and indeed, we crossed paths with many hikers along the way—it’s an easy hike with little elevation gain, which is rare here in La Palma! The beautiful path winds through a very narrow, deep gorge covered in lush tropical vegetation—you’d think you were in a Southeast Asian forest, especially with the humidity in the gorge bringing out earthy and floral scents. Halfway through, Monique turned back while the rest of us continued to the Cuba de Galga. A light drizzle accompanied us on the return. For lunch, we went to Chipi Chipi restaurant in the heights of Santa Cruz. The cool air forced us to leave the lovely terrace for the slightly noisy dining room. The meal was very good and hearty. Afternoon spent resting at our house.

La Cuba de la Galga

Monday, February 19 A few clouds still clung to the nearby mountain peaks. We headed south to Los Canarios. We stopped in front of the small San Antonio Abad church, where a path leads to the viewpoint in 15 minutes. Then we visited the San Antonio Volcano Interpretation Center and climbed to the viewpoint via the trail along the crater’s edge, offering a plunging view into the crater. Then PP, Pat, and I headed toward the Teneguía volcano but turned back given the remaining distance and the intense heat bearing down on us! Plus, the landscape was rather arid and not very interesting. We got back in the car and drove down to the salt flats at the island’s southern tip. The ocean crashes here in large waves, exploding against the volcanic rocks and feeding a "blowhole" carved into the rock. We stopped for drinks at the salt flats restaurant, then headed home. The salt flats in Fuencaliente

Tuesday, February 20 Beautiful weather with a few clouds clinging to the mountains, as usual. A relaxed morning since my parking reservation at La Cumbrecita didn’t start until 1 PM. It takes about 30 minutes from Santa Cruz to reach the valley floor via a beautiful but narrow road toward the end, though there’s very little traffic. Meanwhile, the clouds had disappeared, and the view from the La Cumbrecita viewpoint was superb. We recognized Pico de la Cruz in the distance, where we’d been a few days earlier. We then took the path leading to the Las Chozas viewpoint through a magnificent Canarian pine forest. We picnicked on site, then took the path to the Los Roques viewpoint. We returned the same way since the direct route was closed for construction. Back in Santa Cruz, we visited the Sanctuary of Las Nieves, with its beautiful golden Baroque altar. Hike from La Cumbrecita

Wednesday, February 21 After packing our things and loading the car, we left Santa Cruz under a very blue sky for Los Llanos de Aridane, where we stopped to visit this lovely town. The Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios has a beautiful coffered ceiling and an original papier-mâché Christ statue from the 16th century. Around it, colorful old Canarian houses brighten the streets of the town center. We took the opportunity to stroll, do some shopping, and finally sat down at La Pergola restaurant for a mediocre lunch. We got back in the car to check into our new house in Arecida. On the way, we stopped at the Mirador del Time, which once again offered an impressive panorama, allowing us—for the first time—to see the damage caused by the Tajogaite volcano eruption in 2021. You can clearly see the still-smoking crater and the large black lava flow covering the landscape down to the sea. We really liked our new accommodation: a local house that’s been renovated on the heights of Arecida, not far from the Canarian pine forest. From several terraces, we have a 360° view of the sea and mountains. We even have a private pool! There are two beautiful, brand-new bedrooms, each with its own bathroom—the best. Plus, we’re on the GR 131 trail that runs along the Barranco de las Angustias toward the northeast.

Los Llanos de Aridane

Thursday, February 22 Once again, beautiful weather greeted us when we woke up. We started the GR 131 with the goal of reaching the Torre del Time viewpoint—about 400 meters of elevation gain. The path, quite steep at first, winds through a superb Canarian pine forest. A few viewpoints let you appreciate the sheer drop of the Barranco de las Angustias—watch out for vertigo! At the Torre del Time viewpoint, there’s a nearly 1,000-meter vertical drop. We returned via another path, the PLP1, which meanders first through this beautiful forest, then along lovely flower-filled gardens adjacent to beautiful properties that cascade from the forest down to the road serving these neighborhoods. This afternoon, we tried to get closer to the area devastated by the 2021 lava flows. Several roads are still closed or reserved for residents, while others—brand new—have been rebuilt to open up this densely populated and cultivated region. In some places, the lava flow slightly diverted, sparing some properties that logically should have disappeared. Now, they’re encircled by a massive cooled lava field. In other spots, twisted and charred metal scraps or greenhouse remains protrude from the lava—all that’s left of the former banana plantations. A little higher up, you can see the slightly smoking crater of Tajogaite, responsible for this disaster. Back to Casa Barreros.

View of Los Llanos and, in the background, the 2021 lava flow

Friday, February 23

Though the sky was still blue, the temperature had dropped due to a chilly wind. By midday, it still rose to 22°C. Today, we headed north, specifically to the town of Tijarafe, where a very narrow road descends to the small port, Porís de Candelaria. The 3.7-kilometer road drops 700 meters in elevation, with gradients up to 30%—it was going to be intense! Indeed, the descent was scary, with the void right next to the very narrow road where passing was impossible except at a few rare spots. Everything went well—there was little traffic at this early hour. From the parking lot at the bottom, a path leads to Porís de Candelaria. It’s surprising to see this small fishing hamlet nestled in the shelter of an immense cave opening onto the sea, which was quite rough today. The sun, at this time of year, would appear late in the cave, which remained in shadow for much of the day. We returned via the same road, strolled through the small town of Puntagorda, and had lunch at El Jardín de los Naranjos restaurant—excellent meal. Fishing hamlet of Candelaria

Saturday, February 24 The air was still cool, but the sun was beautiful. While Monique stayed home to rest, the three of us headed to the village of Las Tricias to hike the Buracas Caves trail. We left the car parked on the LP1 road and took the small paved road down to the sign marking the trail’s start. The signage for all the trails we took here, as in La Gomera, was very well done. The path descended steadily, then more steeply toward the caves where the island’s first inhabitants lived—some petroglyphs are still visible in certain caves. The path then climbed back up, passing magnificent dragon trees and more or less elaborate huts occupied by Germans who’ve lived here for many years. Back at Casa Barreros for some rest.

Sunday, February 25 The weather once again blessed us with a beautiful day. This morning, we visited the local produce market held on weekends in Puntagorda. You’ll find agricultural products, crafts, and food to keep you going. A little further on, there’s a glass viewpoint overlooking the barranco plunging toward the sea, with a view of the thrill-seekers trying the zip line right next to it. Lunch at Naranjos—definitely a good spot—with their shrimp and spice tagliatelle. Back home for an afternoon of relaxation.

Monday, February 26 We left Arecida under a cloudy sky. Driving up from Los Llanos de Aridane toward the east, an enormous cascade of clouds poured from the mountain peaks into the Los Llanos plain—very impressive. Arriving in Santa Cruz, we went for a stroll, did some last-minute shopping, then had a final good-quality paella at La Chalana on the paseo maritimo. We left the car in the parking lot and took the 5 PM Olsen ferry to Tenerife on a slightly choppy sea, but the ferry didn’t rock too much. Arriving at 7:15 PM, we dropped off our things near the port in our reserved apartment and went for dinner at Abordo—rubbery chipirones. A digestive stroll among the ever-increasing number of tourists in Los Cristianos—restaurants were packed to the brim, the season is in full swing here. Gone is the calm of La Gomera and La Palma, and the laid-back tourism of German hikers among whom a few French were hiding!

Tuesday, February 27 To make our homemade breakfast more enjoyable, we went to buy pastries at the local bakery, then took one last walk on the paseo along the beaches, mingling with the many mobility scooters driven by elderly or disabled people, joggers, and tourists. Last apéro near the bus station, then off to the airport. After a smooth 4-hour-30-minute flight, we arrived in Basel-Mulhouse at 10:20 PM.

THE END

Conclusion A fantastic trip to two islands with magnificent and diverse nature, where landscapes range from desert-like to tropical depending on exposure to winds and clouds. Thanks to the many beautiful viewpoints, you can truly appreciate these exceptionally dynamic reliefs. A hiker’s paradise, the trails are all very well marked, though the choice of easy or moderate paths for "casual walkers" is quite limited. Another notable advantage, in our opinion, is that these islands are very lightly developed—you’ll hardly see any of those ugly hotel blocks that spoil the landscapes of some other Canary Islands. It’s true that the beaches on these two islands don’t meet traditional international tourism criteria: they’re small, with black sand, and often difficult to access. Special mention for the quality of the road network (except for a few small local roads), which seems brand new, well-paved, and well-signposted. We also enjoyed exceptional weather for February, with fewer than three days of gray or rainy weather out of 21.

Almost all the accommodations we chose met or exceeded our expectations, often at reasonable prices: an average of 98 € per night for an apartment or house with two bedrooms for four people.

All photos can be viewed by clicking this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G44pPk4g9PW1rNzg8

We're heading to Rome from May 21st to 24th. Does anyone know some good spots (restaurants) for affordable meals in the city center while we're sightseeing? Thanks

Hey everyone,

I booked a flight with RyanAir for next month, with the priority+ option and two cabin bags. So I can take a 10 kg bag with dimensions 55x40x20 in the cabin (plus another smaller one). The problem is that the smallest suitcase I have (which is supposed to be designed specifically for cabin size standards, according to the manual) has the following dimensions: 55x37x21, so it's just 1 cm over (wheels included) on one of the measurements.

I wasn’t too worried at first, but I’ve read dozens of stories about people’s misadventures and the hassles they’ve had with RyanAir.

Since I don’t want my suitcase to end up in the hold (that would waste time picking it up when I’m already arriving late and need to get to the city center), nor do I want to pay an extra fee (apparently 50 €) for the outbound and return flights for just 1 centimeter—especially since I paid for the "priority+" option and I’m not exactly rolling in money—I’d love some advice.

Have any of you been in the same situation? I’ve read that with this airline, they check bags in templates (testing them in different positions) and are completely uncompromising. I tried contacting customer service, who, as luck would have it, "don’t handle this kind of request," and a rep I spoke to wasn’t much help.

I know it’s a low-cost airline, and I don’t expect luxury or even kindness, but come on—just 1 cm on a short flight with the + option... I’m a bit overwhelmed by everything I’ve read...

Just to clarify, since I’m going for 8 days, I can’t just take one bag for my stuff. I’ve done that for shorter trips before, and it was a hassle—I even had to buy an extra bag for the return trip... Luckily, the inspector was nice about it!

Thanks so much! I’m a newbie when it comes to air travel :) Hope I posted this in the right section!

Preamble

June 2024. While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way. The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km. It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.



In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?

And the answers? Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan. Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable. But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give. Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom. A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain. But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.

Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing. And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality. When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual. No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.

This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.

Now, all that was left was to walk. April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.

Hi there, Is there a bike route that crosses Italy to catch the boat to Sicily? If so, where does it start and where does it end?

I'm starting a new travel journal in Italy. It's about a month-long trip (from September 3, 2025, to October 4, 2025), or rather a part of it. This section matches the title: an opera festival in Verona (one evening) and the Dolomites in the Veneto region. I'm posting the part of the trip I think will interest French-speaking readers the most (since this is where I saw the most French travelers). Here’s a quick summary: - Trip in September 2025 - Solo travel with camping (caravan) - Small geographic area: besides Verona, the surroundings of the Marmolada massif and Cortina d'Ampezzo. - Main but not exclusive activity: hiking.

Since I have limited internet access where I am now, I’ll be writing slowly. Here we go!

Day 1: Thursday, September 4, 2025

I arrived in Veneto under the sun and with warm weather. I drove to Verona and tried to find a spot at the campsite (Verona Village) located south of the city. Unfortunately, it was full. Booking on the website was mandatory, but when I tried to reserve a few days ago, the site never moved from the "reservation" step to the "payment" step (I don’t know why—it’s always like that in these cases). I found another solution over the phone; the drive from southern Verona to the northeast was a bit long, but I finally settled at the "Oro Verde" campsite. It’s an "agricampeggio" (farm camping or rural campsite) on the outskirts of the city, and its name (green gold) suggests they produce olives there. Since it wasn’t late, I biked to the Adige River, following the recommended route into the city.

Hi! We’d like to go away for 10 days around May 15th, either to Menorca or Crete—we don’t know either place. We love hiking, unspoiled nature, good food, swimming, and, if possible, avoiding crowds. We enjoy getting off the beaten track. Menorca seems ideal because it’s not far by plane from Lyon, but if Crete is really wilder and more beautiful in terms of landscapes, we can add an extra hour of flight time. Can you help us out? Thanks!

Hi everyone,

Does anyone have an idea about how flight ticket prices drop for a given destination? (Excluding Ryanair, of course.)

We need to leave for Seville on December 27th. Generally, airlines launch trips on a specific date with a high price to start filling the plane. As the departure date gets closer, the airline tries to fill the plane and lowers its prices, so the ticket price becomes reasonable again.

Example: Right now, for a trip in about 10 days, the average round-trip ticket price is usually around 200 €. Currently, the round-trip ticket price for December 27th is 450 €.

If any of you have more precise info on this topic (for example, if the price drops 15 days before departure), thanks in advance for your input. Jean Paul

Hi there,

I’m starting this thread to ask for your advice on a tricky situation I recently ran into. Maybe you’ve been through something similar?

After booking my tickets for this summer, I realized I never received an email, payment confirmation, or reservation number (well, the number did appear on the page after payment, but I didn’t write it down, assuming I’d get it in the confirmation email that usually arrives right after). Even though I was charged, I have no other proof of purchase since I don’t have anything to back it up...

At the time, I wasn’t too worried—email delays had happened to me before. Worst case, I’d get it an hour later.

Except after a full day, I still hadn’t received anything, and the reservation still doesn’t show up in my personal account on the airline’s website.

What should I do?

I contacted support via message: still no reply (and they guarantee a response within two hours). I called them, but no one picked up (and on top of that, I was charged 7.5 € for 15 minutes on hold). Now I’m starting to lose my patience...

Has this ever happened to you?

Thanks in advance,

Short version: I booked through Croisières.fr, and everything went smoothly until my order was confirmed. When I requested a date change—due to administrative reasons—the sales rep initially assured me the fee would be 50 € per person, but then demanded 600 € (negotiated down to 338 €), even though the price remained unchanged. On top of that, Paul, the sales rep, was dishonest, claiming that drinks (excluding alcohol) were included and that there were "all-inclusive" packages for alcoholic beverages, which is completely false. All drinks—even water—are charged onboard. I had also requested a cabin with two separate beds to travel with my mother, a request that wasn’t honored, forcing me to sleep on a small couch. To make matters worse, all my emails and calls to customer service were ignored or handled carelessly. While the cruise itself was satisfactory—thanks to Costa for the onboard organization—I recommend booking directly with Costa to avoid these bad surprises with Croisières.fr.

Long version: I booked a cruise for two through Croisières.fr, and the process went perfectly until the final confirmation of my order, which initially reinforced my trust. However, as soon as I requested a change in departure dates—due to a delay in obtaining my mother’s ID card—the situation quickly deteriorated. During this process, Paul, the Croisières.fr sales rep, initially told me that the date-change fee would be only 50 € per person. To my surprise, I was then hit with an exorbitant processing fee of 600 €, which was eventually negotiated down to 338 €. This turnaround was all the more baffling because the new cruise offered was priced exactly the same as the original booking on the website.

The situation worsened when the cruise line later changed the dates for internal reasons at Costa. The new dates didn’t work for us at all, especially because of my mother’s non-reschedulable medical appointment. Despite my flexibility and numerous phone calls and emails, we were forced to accept these new dates against our will. It took a lot of effort to secure another slot, even though we had been accommodating on almost all other dates.

I also noticed other serious shortcomings in Croisières.fr’s sales service. Paul, the sales rep, turned out to be dishonest: he claimed that drinks (excluding alcohol) were included in the ticket price and that there were "all-inclusive" packages for alcoholic beverages. That’s absolutely not true! Without a package, all drinks—even water—are charged onboard. Additionally, I had specifically requested a cabin with two separate beds to travel with my mother. This request wasn’t honored, and I had to make do with a small couch because there was no way to set up two separate beds.

I’m willing to accept rules and constraints if they’re communicated upfront, but these crucial details were never shared with me. What disappoints me the most is how my requests were handled by customer service. None of the emails I sent received a response, and my numerous phone calls were dealt with carelessly and without any consideration. Everything was fine until the order was confirmed, and then suddenly, there was a complete lack of attention and follow-up, leaving a bitter taste.

That said, despite these issues, I was very satisfied with the cruise itself, and I’d like to sincerely thank Costa for their excellent onboard organization. Based on this experience, I strongly advise travelers to book directly with Costa to avoid the bad surprises and lack of follow-up that seem characteristic of Croisières.fr.