Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum and I’m going on a Costa cruise in three weeks with my family (there’ll be 14 of us in total). The planned stops are: Barcelona, Palma, Ibiza, Palermo, Rome, and Savona. Given the high cost of the excursions offered by Costa, I’m looking for tips and great deals. In your opinion, what are the best excursions to do at these stops? Which sites shouldn’t be missed? Thanks in advance for your recommendations.

SANDRINE🙂

Hi there,

This summer, we’ve decided to do a 3-week road trip starting from Nice and heading down to Ksamil in Albania.

We’re leaving from Nice, and our route is already pretty much set: Nice - Verona (Italy) - Rijeka (Croatia) - Zadar - Split - Budva (Montenegro) - Shkodër (Albania) - Ksamil, then back through Italy via Bari.

The itinerary is packed! 🙂

Do you have any suggestions for things to see—visits, beaches, viewpoints, villages, or excursions—to make the most of our journey?

Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone, I’m going on a Mediterranean cruise in November and I’m looking for some "tips" to visit the cities of Naples, Messina, and Valletta in Malta without booking the ship’s excursions, which are really expensive. Thanks so much for your advice and suggestions. We’re a group of 6 people. Looking forward to hearing from you... Best, M

PS: We’re also stopping in Genoa and Barcelona—even though we know these two cities, we’d still love any tips for visiting them! Thanks

Hi everyone, I’m starting to look into small solo cruises, for now in November. It’s my first cruise, so I’m a bit nervous. Anyone potentially interested in 7 days in Italy, Tunisia, and Spain? If you’ve got any tips, I’d love to hear them. Looking forward to reading your replies

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to the White Villages and noticed that many are in the Province of Cádiz—like Setenil de las Bodegas, Olvera, Ubrique, Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Medina-Sidonia, and Vejer de la Frontera. Are all of these worth visiting, or are there others you’d recommend? I’ve already been to Arcos de la Frontera and Ronda in the area and wouldn’t mind returning, of course. I’m also considering the Caminito del Rey, so maybe a few interesting villages in the province of Málaga too. Do you think an itinerary starting from Málaga (arriving at the airport) with 2 or 3 stops (like Ronda, Arcos, and a third in one of these villages) would work? Thanks for your tips!

Hi everyone,

For the May public holidays, we’ve planned a 5-day trip to Puglia (which feels a bit short, but we couldn’t do otherwise—work commitments!).

We’ll be staying in Bari and plan to explore the surrounding villages on day trips or half-day trips. We’re struggling to decide which ones to visit.

What do you think is doable/reasonable in 5 days? Are some places more worth it than others?

Off the top of our heads, we were considering: Lecce, Ostuni, Alberobello, Brindisi, Matera, and Polignano a Mare... I think we won’t be able to do it all, so we’re thinking of cutting some destinations—but which ones?

Thanks in advance! Tyflore

Hi there, I live in Quebec and I’m planning a trip to Italy. We’re thinking of visiting Rome, Florence, Venice, and Tuscany. Here are a few questions I haven’t been able to find clear answers to online. If anyone can help, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!

- There are different City Passes for Rome. I’ve found the differences between them, but whenever I try to simulate a purchase, I’m always redirected to another site like Tiquet. Is there an official Tourism Office website for these?

- Is it easy to get around Tuscany by public transport, especially in the Chianti region?

- For guided tours (or not), which company do you prefer? Get Your Guide? Viator?

Looking forward to your recommendations—thanks again!

So happy the forum reopened last October!!! I’ve started reading again (posts, travel journals) and chiming in on a few discussions. Now I’m stepping it up by writing a new travel journal—I’ve already posted a few between 2018 and 2020.

My latest trip was to Italy from August 27 to September 26, 2024. As the title says, it was a wander through Tuscany in parts of the region that aren’t the most visited. No Firenze-Siena-Pisa trilogy, no San Gimignano; there’ll be a quick detour into Siena, but I’ll skip the best-known sights. That choice, plus traveling in September, should help dodge overtourism. It worked out—crowds were light, sometimes very light, the whole way. Here’s the practical rundown: - a long trip outside peak season (ah, retirees!) - solo camping (caravan) - a mix of activities (hiking, mountain biking, sightseeing) in places that aren’t always packed with tourists. Still, I don’t feel like I ended up in some hidden-away spots. Not sure if this will draw any readers.

DAY 1: Tuesday, August 27, 2024 The heat was intense on the drive in across the plain; two big storms—more rain and hail than lightning and thunder—threw the weather off, the first near Imola, the second on the four-lane road up the Savio valley. I left the Cesena-Roma four-lane at the Verghereto exit and climbed up to Balze (1,100 meters). The campsite is even higher (1,200 meters), in the forest near the source of the Tevere (Tiber). Staying up here will cut down on driving for the first part of the trip: a route through the Appennino (Apennines) on the border between Toscana and Emilia-Romagna. The temperature was surprisingly mild for the altitude, the air thick with moisture by late afternoon. I drove back down from the campsite to Balze (2 km on the road) to grab groceries (it’s doable) and scout tomorrow’s hike. .

The endpoint of the planned hike is just a few meters from this sign (the trail crosses this road about 3 km from Balze). I realized Balze and the source of the Tevere (Tiber) are actually in Emilia-Romagna, not Toscana. I always thought the Tevere (Tiber), which flows toward Roma (Tyrrhenian side), started in Toscana! I’ll come back to this quirk in Day 3’s write-up.

Hi everyone,

What a joy to be back here and pick up where we left off after all these months of hiatus.

I hope you’ll enjoy the story of this little trip around the Eastern Mediterranean. This cruise was the perfect way to satisfy our longing to return to Greece and Istanbul. The end of the season, until late November, is the best time to visit the Mediterranean in my opinion—when climate disruptions don’t get in the way.

Departing from Trieste, our stops were Katakolon, Piraeus, Kusadasi, Istanbul, Corfu, and Bari, before returning to Trieste and then Venice, where we planned a very short 24-hour stay.

We left home at 6:15 AM—our first cruise departure since moving to Normandy. What I miss most about living in the Gard is how close we were to Marseille Airport. No more hopping over to Marignane in an hour; now we have to plan for a three-hour trip to CDG, even under the best conditions on an early Sunday morning.

It was impossible to book a hotel night before our flight because, starting in April, the Ibis was priced at 450 € per night, and the Mercure was flirting with 800 €—breakfast not included, of course. 😏

I had a feeling there must’ve been a conference or something going on… Turns out, it was just the auto show. They simply adjusted the room prices to match the cost of the cars. 😛

Our flight took us to Venice, where we caught a FlixBus to Trieste. We arrived at Trieste’s train station in the afternoon and walked to our hotel in the city center.

After treating ourselves to an amazing pizza at a restaurant (Di Napoli Maestri Pizzaioli, Via Armando Diaz 10) for a very reasonable price, we enjoyed the mild evening temperature while exploring the stunning buildings of this charming city by night. These magnificent structures are a testament to the city’s past. Trieste became Austrian in 1382 due to its complicated relationship with Venice, and it wasn’t until 1918, at the end of World War I, that it became Italian again. The city’s lighting beautifully highlights the architecture of the buildings.

The terraces were lively, and the atmosphere was so warm and inviting that we wanted to stay out even longer.



But we’d been up since 4 AM, so we were happy to retreat to the quiet of our hotel, located in the pedestrian center just a few steps from the port (Urban Hotel Design—highly recommended).

More to come soon.

Hey there, VF crew!

After wrapping up our travel journal on Java (link below), we’re now diving into our recent adventure in Puglia! Happy reading... Off we go on an adventure in Java (and a bit of Bali) | Travel journal > Indonesia | Voyage Forum

Day 1 - October 19

When you tell your friends and family you’re itching to escape to the other side of the planet to mingle with the Mongols, you can usually expect a barrage of questionable jokes and terrible puns. For this new adventure, it’s a different destination but the same old story—this time, we’re visiting the "pouilleux" (the "scruffy" ones). We’re taking off straight for Puglia! If you need a cheat sheet to remember where this oddly named place is on a world map, just think of it this way: Puglia is the maiden name on the ID card of the heel of the Italian boot! Personally, I prefer to remember it as the land of creamy burrata, the smell of focaccia fresh from the oven, orecchiette shaped by mamas, golden olive oil that shines like the sun (which beams down here 300 days a year), amaretto that makes you happy, and those famous trulli—those little hobbit-like dry-stone houses straight out of a movie set...

But I’ll stop spoiling the rest of our trip and focus on a factual rundown of this first Puglian day. So, are you joining us on this new adventure beyond our Gallic borders? Either way, Sasha (my youngest) and Luna (Flo’s daughter) didn’t need much convincing to stick with us and keep up the pace!

Our plane drops our little crew in Bari, the site of a famously tragic battle lost in 1991. But revenge is sweet! After renting a motorized carriage, we escape the landing zone and head to our military base of operations: Ostuni, a strategic little town where we’ll set up camp for the next four days. Why Ostuni? First, for its central location, which lets us explore a region packed with must-see gems. Second, for its vibe and beauty, which have earned it quite the reputation. Perched high on a hill, the *città bianca* (the "White City") lives up to its nickname. It literally dazzles visitors. The reason? The whitewashed facades of its houses, a testament to the region’s rich architectural heritage.





We arrived late last night, so only the two bravest soldiers volunteered to scout ahead at dawn, while the younger recruits stayed behind—for now. But not for long! After the first wave of streets and the next round of exploration, headquarters made the inevitable call to retreat. Reinforcements were needed! A few strategic errands, a breakfast ration, and our battalion marched in tight formation, flag held high, to conquer Ostuni the White! *Charge!* In my squadron leader’s memoirs, I’ll write that I didn’t expect Ostuni to put up such a fight. What I thought would take two hours to conquer turned into a humbling experience—we could only bow in respect to its beauty, its relentless charm. The alleys are whiter, more labyrinthine, narrower, and more photogenic than the last. *Veni, vidi, vici*—but what an entrance, my troops!

Hi everyone!!!

I’m finally getting around to writing about this 20-day trip to southern Italy: we didn’t travel this summer, and luckily, we found beautiful light and dreamy weather there at the end of September.

First, here’s the context of the trip: we’re both "confirmed seniors" but still curious and alert enough to enjoy the itinerary we’d imagined! We wanted a mix of discoveries—culture, cities, and nature—with guaranteed sunshine and the occasional short hike... We’re flying to Naples, round-trip, because the flight times work better for us. We rented a car online, picked it up at the airport (details to come... and it won’t be the highlight of the trip!), and booked our hotels in advance.

A quick overview of the itinerary: leaving Naples on September 15th, early in the morning, we’ll drive straight across the boot of Italy to Bari. After 11 days in Puglia, we’ll head back toward our starting point, taking our time: Matera in Basilicata, Maratea by the sea, and finally Paestum with its incredible temples.

Day 1: Brussels-Naples flight (Brussels Airlines) went smoothly; it landed an hour early, and we were thrilled, thinking we could use that time for a quick visit or two... Everything went well until we left the airport. We took the shuttle to the car rental offices, and at first glance, we realized this wouldn’t be smooth sailing!!! In front of every office (they’re side by side), there were already lines and kids sitting on suitcases—everyone looked exhausted... We resigned ourselves to waiting: nothing moved until tempers flared at the counters, and two people nearly came to blows. Things sped up a little, and after 2 (two...) hours of waiting, we finally got our chariot: a black Fiat Tipo, dirty, with a few dents and scratches that we made sure to note in the contract... but it ran!

Off to Bari, then: no time for sightseeing along the way! From there, we headed straight to our hotel in the countryside near Polignano a Mare.



A recurring detail: this happened constantly during our travels. We’d installed our own GPS, fully updated... In recent years, many dirt roads have become drivable, and lots of hotels and hostels have opened in the outskirts of towns. It was extremely rare for our ‘guide’ to recognize the street—let alone the number—we entered. Often, we got by calling the hotel reception: it might seem like a small thing, but it happened so often it became frustrating. In hindsight, it seems like without Google Maps, we’d have been lost!

Anyway, we were beautifully settled, with a terrace overlooking olive groves and the sea in the distance: all was well.



To be continued...

Hi everyone,

Le Marche? Where’s that?

That’s what we hear more than 9 times out of 10... This region is actually little-known, or at least only its Adriatic coastline, just below Rimini, rings a bell.

Yet it’s a beautiful region, bordered to the east by the Adriatic Sea and to the west by the Apennine Mountains, with thousands of hills in between—many topped with charming little villages. A very rural area, quite affordable, starting to showcase its heritage, and not yet overrun by tourists... so what are you waiting for?



The distances look short, but the roads are long: aside from the fairly fast routes running from the hinterland down to the coast, following the paths of small rivers that rise in the Apennines and flow into the Adriatic, all the other roads—especially the cross-country ones—wind and twist. They reveal stunning landscapes at every turn but also force you to adjust your sense of time. We stayed in two different spots, each about 30 or 40 km from the coast—first in the north of Le Marche, near Fossombrone, at Isola di Fano, and then in the south, at Montalto delle Marche.

Since this region is still a bit "under the radar," I had some trouble finding information while planning the trip... So this travel journal aims to introduce you to the region through photos and share a few tips along the way.

First up, some views of the landscapes!







More to come in the next post!

Hi everyone! We’ve booked a cruise on the Costa Smeralda for early November 2025 (ports of call: Barcelona, Cagliari, Naples, Civitavecchia-Rome, Genoa). This is our first cruise, so I need your help for some sightseeing tips. I checked Costa’s website for excursions, but the prices are pretty steep! I saw that it’s possible to get a Costa Go Round ticket with multiple stops—this seems really practical for some destinations. Has anyone tried it? How does it work? Is it useful for seeing several sites in the city? If you have any tips for sightseeing without blowing our budget for 3 people, I’d love to hear them. Thanks so much! :)

Hello, We’ve just returned from our cruise on the Smeralda. There were four of us in balcony cabin 17001—a nice cabin with a large balcony and a very practical bathroom, though storage was a bit tight for four (small wardrobe and small shelf). Our assigned restaurant, El Meneghino, served good and hearty meals. The buffet was fine—since it’s a large ship, we always found free tables at different times, whether for breakfast or lunch. The food was good but not very varied. Be sure to check the daily program for meal times, as they change every day with different options: either buffet, fixed-menu restaurant, or both. The pools and jacuzzis were very small and crowded, and despite the nice weather that week, we never saw the aquapark open. There are plenty of bars where you can easily find a spot to enjoy a drink in peace or with music. The theater was very small and had unusual hours. Over the week, we only managed to see two shows live—the rest were on TV in the cabin. We did two Costa excursions: one in Rome with the express train, which was very pleasant, and the other in Pisa, which was well-organized for independent exploration. Overall, we were quite satisfied with our trip, but we still prefer MSC. Have a nice Sunday.

Hi there, I’m looking for some great tips for a stay in Palma de Mallorca this summer. I need cheap flights departing from Toulouse and affordable accommodation for 4 people. What do you recommend? Best regards,

Hi there, We’re planning a trip for October to visit Naples (6 nights) and the Amalfi Coast (5 nights). We’ve already got the historic center and the Lapis Museum in Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Procida, Sorrento, and Ravello on our list. Any suggestions, addresses, or tips? Thanks for your help.

Hi there,

The full route from Burgos to (just before) Murcia is 1,300 km.

If you’ve done the whole thing, do you think the entire route is worth the trip, or can some sections be skipped?

Thanks.

Hi there,

We're planning our next September vacation for 10 days. We're thinking of going to the Balearic Islands but we're torn between Mallorca, Menorca, and Ibiza. And most importantly, which areas should we avoid and which should we prioritize, for example in Mallorca? We want to steer clear of places that are too crowded and too urbanized, and we'll be getting around by rental car.

Is it possible to visit two islands in 10 days with a ferry transfer?

Thanks for your tips!

Hello Voyage Forum members. For my wife’s birthday and her 64th year, I’d love to plan a two-week road trip with her—using our own car—preferably avoiding overly touristy spots, so off the beaten path where possible. That said, we wouldn’t mind stopping at must-see places along the way. The trip would cover Emilia-Romagna and/or Tuscany if combining both regions is doable in that timeframe, with the option for some hikes during the period. We’re looking at late November 2026. I’d prioritize the most authentic accommodations, ideally with breakfast included, without exceeding 100 € per night if that’s possible. So, stays like private rooms in hostels or homestays would be perfect. Based on these details, I’d really appreciate any recent tips or insights from Voyage Forum members to help me plan this surprise anniversary trip.

Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !

Hi, We’re planning to visit southern Puglia over 9 nights and I’d love your thoughts on our itinerary. We’ll fly into Bari and out of Brindisi, picking up a rental car at the airport. We enjoy sightseeing but aren’t big on museums, and we’d like to swim.

First idea: 1 night in Matera – 4 nights in Monopoli to explore Alberobello, Conversano, Locorotondo, and Ostuni – 4 nights in Gallipoli or another southern town. Second idea: 1 night in Matera – 2 nights in Monopoli – 1 night in Taranto – 4 nights in Gallipoli – 1 night in Ostuni.

Thanks for your tips!

Hello, We’re heading to Italy for five weeks next spring. It’ll be our first trip there. We’d love to see some must-see spots and beautiful countryside regions. Our main transport will be trains, and sometimes buses to reach smaller villages. We’re less interested in the mountains and lakes in the north. We’ll try to stay 4–5 days in some places and explore the surrounding area by train or bus. Any suggestions for planning our trip? Itineraries and must-sees! Thanks

Hi everyone! 👨🏾‍🤝‍👨🏻

My partner and I currently live in Antibes—we’re both freelancers working remotely. We’re thinking about potentially moving to Italy.

We’d like to settle near the French border, between Ventimiglia and San Remo (this is important because we need access to Nice Airport twice a month). ✈️

I’d love to hear about life in this region! We’re looking for a quiet spot close to the sea. Any recommendations? As for the paperwork, is it difficult to get everything official? Is finding housing tough in this area? What kind of guarantees are usually required? If any kind soul could shed some light on this, we’d really appreciate it! 🥺🏻

Thanks so much for your help and advice! ☺️

Hi there, I’d like to climb to the top of Vesuvius by taking the bus from Herculaneum. I’ve figured out how to get there, but what I can’t quite work out is whether I *have* to book on their website or if I can just show up without a reservation. Thanks!

Hi, We arrive at Rome airport from Lyon Sunday morning at 9:30 AM and have a layover until 11:45 AM for our flight to Jeddah (Saudi Arabia). We need to collect our luggage at T1 to head to T3. Will we have enough time? Thanks for your feedback.

Hello everyone,

So, summer 2025 is when I turn 40, and to mark the occasion, I had the idea of doing a road trip through Northern Spain. Since I’ll be traveling with my two kids (9 and 6½ years old), I’m tied to school holidays, but I’m hoping the northern regions of Spain are a little less crowded than the Costa Brava.

We’d leave from Lyon to reach the Atlantic coast, head down to the Basque Country, cross the Spanish border, and then visit: Cantabria - Asturias - Galicia. It’s not exactly around the corner—I’ve seen that it’s about 1,500 km (one way) from Lyon to Galicia. But for this adventure, I’ve got 3 to 3½ weeks. The twist would be doing it in an electric car, stopping for 2-3 days here and there before moving on (alternating between wild camping and hotels). Why electric? Because it’s my company car, and my employer covers the charging and toll costs. Over 3 weeks of vacation, that adds up to big savings.

Question: Do you think this plan is doable? Aside from the charging stops, does the route seem too ambitious for 3 weeks with two kids? And in July/August, are these regions not too packed?

Thanks for your feedback and experiences!

Hi there,

A year ago, I posted looking for a cycling route for a trip in Sicily with my partner and our two kids (3 and 4 years old) in a trailer—something calm, with nature and a bit of culture. I didn’t get many replies, so I’m sharing our itinerary, which we really enjoyed. We cycled from the southeast (Syracuse) to the northwest (Palermo).

**Note:** We had no issues on the road—drivers were very courteous, the welcome was exceptional (lots of invitations to eat and/or stay overnight), and there were very few people on the roads, even the big ones, since we were there from September 23 to October 7.

**Weather:** Apparently, the summer of 2014 had been awful (only 25°C...). We, on the other hand, had 3 days at 44°C—it was *brutal*, including one day at 35°C at 1,000m altitude in the center of the island on October 1st...

**Accommodation:** 15 days of wild camping, with just one really nice apartment after 7 days in Piazza Armerina. Wild camping was tough—rocky, dusty, hard to pitch tent stakes. Our tent got pierced by thorns (even the groundsheet) from one side to the other. We washed up at village fountains, and—let’s be honest—less often than we’d have liked. The kids’ clothes, which spent a lot of time on the ground, were pretty grimy since laundry was rare. Only one official campsite (otherwise, they’re all on the beaches): Da Vinci Camping, in the middle of lemon groves near the southeast (Rosolini). It’s well-known on social media for being very "roots."

**Water:** A real challenge—*very* tough. Off-season, many homes are abandoned, and on some days, we passed through few villages. Result: we always carried our max water (9L) and sometimes had to add extra bottles to last 2 days, covering the day’s ride, wild camping, and the next morning—that’s 15L on the bikes. So be careful with this!

**Itinerary**

We arrived by train in Messina from southern Italy (yes, the train goes onto the ferry—worth seeing!), then took the train to Syracuse. We decided the northeast coast was too dangerous to cycle, so we visited Syracuse and then picked the SP roads (the smallest ones, more or less following the coast) toward Noto. We were supposed to head southeast to Pachino, but since our ferry from Palermo was booked 15 days later, we cut the route short and headed toward Rosolini instead. Nothing exceptional until Modica, crossing the Ispica fault. Modica is a really pretty town to see. Then Ragusa’s old town via the SS 115—a quiet but very scenic road. The town is stunning, but getting through the modern part (Ragusa Alta) means 300–400m of elevation gain... Caltagirone: a lovely town (famous for ceramics), but the center is uphill. We took a bigger road, but there was hardly anyone around. Left via Mirabella, then visited Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana. Took the SP 15 to Barrafranca, Pietraperzia, then Caltanissetta via the SP96 (choose carefully—there’s a bigger road nearby).

Then Serradifalco, Mussomeli (castle), San Giovanni Gemini—a series of hilltop villages with valleys in between. We climbed and descended 500m+ repeatedly. Santo Stefano Quisquina, Prizzi (passing at 1,000m altitude—really nice, no one around). Corleone (great road, some climbing, but it’s awesome); Ficuzza, Santa Cristina Gela, Altofonte, and Palermo (no traffic issues).

**Reminder:** This was off-season—no one on the roads. We found the route through Caltanissetta, Mussomeli, etc., *spectacular* and sometimes breathtaking. Sicily is a rugged place for rugged people (especially wild camping). We’d heard the center of Sicily was overrated (not at all...). After 4 months of traveling without always listening to others’ opinions, we confirm: central Sicily is amazing—rugged, dramatic, and perfect for what we were looking for (though we didn’t swim).

**Elevation:** People kept saying Sicily was a nightmare for climbing. We’ve done much tougher routes in the Black Forest or Slovenia. The tricky part in central Sicily is the constant ups and downs—you climb 300–600m in one go, then descend right after. We used "Ride with GPS" to test different routes and avoid unnecessary descents (or minimize them). With a few extra kilometers, we saved about 2,000m of elevation gain overall, especially around Caltanissetta, the Modica-Ragusa link, arriving in Modica, and leaving Ragusa.

Hope this helps someone...

The title might surprise you, but you’ll understand my point of view.

1/ MEAL STRUCTURE I’m talking about the standard meal, not the one for those who have to budget for financial reasons (generally fewer in northern and central Italy than in France, but more in the south, which makes up 35% of Italy—Eurostat figures), nor for those (mostly women) watching their figure.

The tradition (once the meal of the well-off, widespread among the general population in the 1950s) starts with soup or pasta (or rice, gnocchi, ravioli, lasagna)—this is the *primo piatto*.

Next comes meat or another animal-based product (fish, cured meats, eggs, etc.)—the *secondo piatto*, which can be replaced by cooked vegetables (the only known example in France: eggplant parmesan).

If the meat dish doesn’t already include vegetables, one is served. Salads, whether green or tomato-based, are side dishes, not starters.

The meal ends with dessert—no difference from French habits: cheese, fruit, or sweets.

*Antipasti* (appetizers) are reserved for festive meals or receptions and are served *in addition* to the main courses at the start.

4 practices unknown in France: - If the menu includes pasta and ham, you start with the pasta. - If the menu includes pasta with a meat sauce and fish, you start with the pasta too. - Pasta is never a side dish for meat. - It’s not unusual for Italians to start with pasta in a meat sauce and then have a meat dish—most do this several times a week.

Modern adaptations: - People eat pasta less often (on average 5 times a week, according to recent figures) and soups, which are being replaced by *antipasti*. - The main meal is now mostly dinner, so it’s much heartier, while lunch isn’t usually eaten at home.

2/ THE CUISINE What do we know in France? Pizza, pasta Bolognese, carbonara, arrabbiata, ravioli, and lasagna. Fried scampi, Milanese or Bolognese cutlets, carpaccio, and finally tiramisu.

In short, a few basic dishes, but nothing of the gastronomy—whether regional traditions or high-end restaurants.

2 anecdotes: **Bolognese sauce** In Italy, the most common homemade sauce is a meat-and-tomato-based sauce called *ragù* (pronounced *ragoo*). Every region, even every town and family, as well as every restaurant, has its own recipe. *Ragù alla bolognese* is just one of these countless *ragù*—and no one in France knows the real recipe (I can share it with those interested). The name *bolognese* given abroad to any *ragù* comes from a canned sauce manufacturer who once branded their product that way. Until the early 1960s, it was called *sauce à la viande* (meat sauce).

**Pizza** Before World War II, it was practically unknown north of Rome. Today, Italy is one of the countries where it’s eaten the least (twice as much in France, four times as much in Germany).

Hello, I'm considering doing the "Ruta de la Plata" next September. The plan would be to fly into Madrid, head up to León via Segovia and Valladolid, then down to Huelva before returning to Madrid for the flight back. We're in our seventies and limit ourselves to easy, short walks. For accommodations, well-maintained hotels or guesthouses would suit us, and we'd also like to try 2 or 3 paradores. How many days do you think we should allow for this trip? A round-trip flight to Madrid seems the most practical. We've already explored Andalusia but might consider stopping in Seville or Córdoba again. Thanks to anyone who can advise us on the timing, itinerary, or must-see spots...

Hi everyone,

We’re thinking of booking an "all-inclusive" trip so we don’t have to worry too much... for a week at the beginning of next September, but we’re torn between several destinations: Crete? Cyprus? Sicily? Sardinia? The only thing we’re really looking for is sunshine. Thanks in advance for any tips you can share!