Hi everyone,
I’m currently working on a 30-day itinerary for May/June 2027.
10 days in eastern Java (Malang, Bromo, waterfalls, Meru Beriti Park, Banyuwangi, and Ijen), a short transit in Ubud for a few days, then Flores before heading back to Jakarta.
We’ll spend 15 days in Flores (the classic route: Moni, Bajawa, Riung, Ruteng, ending in Labuan Bajo).
I’d love some firsthand feedback on flights to Maumere or Ende from Bali Denpasar. I know there are no direct routes and that you have to connect through Labuan Bajo or Timor (I think), which isn’t an issue in itself.
But I’ve read here and there that flights to these destinations can be delayed—or worse, canceled—and that it’s better to fly in and out of Labuan Bajo, which isn’t exactly ideal...
Thanks for any tips or experiences you can share!
10 similar discussions in English
Hi,
I’m traveling alone with my daughters (9, 8, and 15) to Bali for almost 3 weeks in July.
We’re staying mainly in Ubud and Amed.
Are there any must-see places and beaches we absolutely shouldn’t miss? Also, any shows or performances worth checking out?
I plan to get around using the Grab app—is that enough?
Thanks! !
Hey there, community! Back this weekend, below is my travel journal from my adventure in Indonesia. Enjoy the read!!!
Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!
After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!
This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!
Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...
Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...
Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!
After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!
This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!
Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...
Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...
Hi everyone,
After letting our backpacks gather dust for several years, we’ve decided to set off on another adventure—this time as a family, with our 10- and 12-year-old kids! We’re planning a trip from mid-June to the end of July, with two stops: Cambodia (2 weeks) and Indonesia (4 weeks). But before diving into the details, we’ve got quite a few questions and doubts.
About Cambodia: We know this period is the rainy season. Is it really a good idea to go then? And if so, is it better to start with Cambodia and then move on to Indonesia, or does the order not matter from a climate perspective? Here are the activities and sites we’ve shortlisted: · The Mekong and Irrawaddy dolphins: do we actually have a chance of seeing them? · The Mondulkiri Project (elephant sanctuary): is this an ethical project? We want to avoid any form of animal exploitation. · The temples of Angkor: are 2 or 3 days enough to fully enjoy them? · Floating villages: where should we go for an authentic experience? Is it possible to spend the night there? · Hikes with waterfalls, lakes, etc.: are there any must-do treks? · And most importantly, what activities or sites would appeal to kids?
For Indonesia: We were there 15 years ago and loved our itinerary: Yogyakarta / Borobudur → Bromo → Kawah Ijen → Bali → Gili Trawangan. This time, we’re torn: · Retracing part of that route to share it with our kids (even if revisiting the same places isn’t super appealing), · Or exploring new regions. What’s almost certain is that we’d like to spend about two weeks in Raja Ampat. For the other two weeks, we’re undecided. We’re looking for kid-friendly ideas for places and activities, while avoiding too many connections for budget and environmental reasons. Since we’ll already see temples in Cambodia, we’d like to mix things up.
And finally… On our last trip to the region, we traveled without kids and went super free-spirited: only the round-trip tickets were booked, and we improvised the rest day by day without any major issues finding accommodation, food, or accessing the activities we’d spotted. Do you think this style of travel is still doable with two kids? Or has it become too risky or stressful? Are there regions where the "backpacker" approach is still possible, and others where it’s better to book in advance? And for certain activities or sites, is it recommended to hire guides?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences!
After letting our backpacks gather dust for several years, we’ve decided to set off on another adventure—this time as a family, with our 10- and 12-year-old kids! We’re planning a trip from mid-June to the end of July, with two stops: Cambodia (2 weeks) and Indonesia (4 weeks). But before diving into the details, we’ve got quite a few questions and doubts.
About Cambodia: We know this period is the rainy season. Is it really a good idea to go then? And if so, is it better to start with Cambodia and then move on to Indonesia, or does the order not matter from a climate perspective? Here are the activities and sites we’ve shortlisted: · The Mekong and Irrawaddy dolphins: do we actually have a chance of seeing them? · The Mondulkiri Project (elephant sanctuary): is this an ethical project? We want to avoid any form of animal exploitation. · The temples of Angkor: are 2 or 3 days enough to fully enjoy them? · Floating villages: where should we go for an authentic experience? Is it possible to spend the night there? · Hikes with waterfalls, lakes, etc.: are there any must-do treks? · And most importantly, what activities or sites would appeal to kids?
For Indonesia: We were there 15 years ago and loved our itinerary: Yogyakarta / Borobudur → Bromo → Kawah Ijen → Bali → Gili Trawangan. This time, we’re torn: · Retracing part of that route to share it with our kids (even if revisiting the same places isn’t super appealing), · Or exploring new regions. What’s almost certain is that we’d like to spend about two weeks in Raja Ampat. For the other two weeks, we’re undecided. We’re looking for kid-friendly ideas for places and activities, while avoiding too many connections for budget and environmental reasons. Since we’ll already see temples in Cambodia, we’d like to mix things up.
And finally… On our last trip to the region, we traveled without kids and went super free-spirited: only the round-trip tickets were booked, and we improvised the rest day by day without any major issues finding accommodation, food, or accessing the activities we’d spotted. Do you think this style of travel is still doable with two kids? Or has it become too risky or stressful? Are there regions where the "backpacker" approach is still possible, and others where it’s better to book in advance? And for certain activities or sites, is it recommended to hire guides?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences!
Hi everyone,
After years of traveling, I finally settled down a few years ago in the Togean Islands, Indonesia (on the main island of Sulawesi).
For those planning to visit the Togeans via Wakai (arriving either by ferry from Gorontalo or speedboat from Ampana), watch out for a person who goes by the name Bagong, also known as Farid.
This gentleman is a teacher and supplements his income with tourism-related activities. He often hangs around Wakai port looking for tourists to sell things to (a charter boat transfer, a cabin on the ferry, etc.), using dishonest methods and lining his pockets.
More recently, he was hired by the authorities of Togean Islands National Park (TNKT) to sell entry tickets. And this is even worse: in the name of the National Park, he outright scams tourists, either by selling tickets at a higher price, asking them to pay again, or charging children who are supposed to enter for free.
Here’s what you need to know: 1. Entry fee for the National Park: 150,000 IDR (ONLY FOR ADULTS, aged 18 and up)
2. This entry fee is only payable once, even if the ticket states it’s a daily price. These tickets were printed a long time ago, before tourists even had to pay anything, and since then the payment system has changed. So it’s indeed 150,000 IDR per person, payable once regardless of how long you stay in the Togeans.
3. Where to pay (depends on your entry point to the Togeans):
Ampana: entry fee payable when departing from Ampana port Gorontalo: entry fee payable upon arrival at Wakai port Bumbulan (Marisa): entry fee payable upon arrival at Dolong port
If you’re asked to pay these fees anywhere else or when leaving the Togeans, it’s a scam—don’t pay.
4. You should receive one receipt per person in exchange for the 150,000 IDR. If not, know that the money won’t go to the National Park but into the ticket seller’s pocket. If someone offers to charge you less (e.g., 100,000 IDR), you won’t get a receipt, so the money still won’t go to the National Park. Please don’t accept these practices, even if you think it’s good for your wallet (seriously, a 50,000 IDR discount is only about 3 €). The National Park needs these funds to protect the Togean Islands’ ecosystem. By saving 3 €, you’re just lining the pockets of a dishonest guy.
Several resorts have already reported Bagong’s (or Farid’s) dishonest practices to the National Park. The authorities are still struggling to find a trustworthy person to sell tickets in Wakai (no scams have been reported in the other two ports so far). We all hope this person will be replaced soon.
5. Contribution for the Ministry of Tourism: Since early 2019, every tourist staying in the Togean Islands must, in addition to the National Park entry fee, pay a 50,000 IDR contribution (regardless of the length of stay). These fees are to be paid at the same time as the 150,000 IDR for the National Park.
6. Price for renting a cabin on the ferry Wakai - Gorontalo (and vice versa): 500,000 IDR. If someone offers you 600,000 IDR, it’s a scam, and those extra 100,000 IDR will go into the same dishonest guy’s pocket (or one of his accomplices). Note that the 500,000 IDR already includes the commission for the person acting as an intermediary to rent the cabin.
7. Going rates for charter boats from Wakai to the various resorts (approximate prices, just to give you an idea—it may vary slightly from one boat operator to another or from one resort to another):
Wakai - Kadidiri (Harmony Bay, Kadidiri Paradise, Black Marlin, Pondo Lestari): usually free if the transfer is arranged by the resort (if you have a confirmed booking and stay more than one night), otherwise between 100,000 and 150,000 IDR Wakai - Una Una (Sanctum, Pristine Paradise): I’ll get back to you with the info, but you can also check with these two resorts. Wakai - Katupat (Fadhila Cottages and Bolilanga): 400,000 IDR Wakai - Bomba (Polyalisa, Poki-Poki, Araya Dive Resort, Island Retreat): 400,000 IDR Wakai - Malenge (Malenge Indah, Bahia Tomini, Sera Beach, Sandy Bay, Lestari Cottages): 600,000 IDR Wakai - Waleakodi (Lia Beach, Pulotiga Resort): 900,000 IDR
There you go, fellow travelers—my little contribution to help you avoid what’s known here as the "Wakai mafia."
I’ve included some photos of Bagong/Farid (found on Facebook) so you can recognize him. Note that he sometimes wears glasses, sometimes not, sometimes has a mustache, sometimes not, and sometimes wears his teacher’s uniform to appear more official or legitimate. Heh, the habit doesn’t make the monk ;)
Other shady individuals in Wakai:
Lamin: sometimes sells ferry tickets to Gorontalo, but mostly acts as a taxi to resorts, with shady deals and unfair prices. Uni: a seemingly charming woman, but not always honest. She offers cabin rentals on the ferry and arranges charter boat transfers to resorts.
And while I’m at it, if you meet "Miss Harbor" at Ampana port, run away like the plague. She doesn’t handle National Park ticket sales but will try to sell you a car rental for Toraja, Tentena, Luwuk, or Manado, a cabin rental on the ferry to Gorontalo, or other things. Her real name is Ulfa, and she’s a real scammer (on top of being an alcoholic and a bit unhinged). I’ll try to post something about her later.
Don’t worry, there are also plenty of great people in the Togean Islands :P :P
If, despite everything, you fall victim to these scammers’ schemes, be sure to report it to the resort where you’re staying. And of course, leave a comment here so I can report it to the National Park and the Ministry of Tourism (communications are difficult in the Togeans, and some resort owners don’t have many opportunities to contact the authorities). Together, we can put an end to these dishonest practices and make the Togean Islands even more beautiful :)
Have a great summer, travel safely, and return with your heart filled with the beauty of our world!
After years of traveling, I finally settled down a few years ago in the Togean Islands, Indonesia (on the main island of Sulawesi).
For those planning to visit the Togeans via Wakai (arriving either by ferry from Gorontalo or speedboat from Ampana), watch out for a person who goes by the name Bagong, also known as Farid.
This gentleman is a teacher and supplements his income with tourism-related activities. He often hangs around Wakai port looking for tourists to sell things to (a charter boat transfer, a cabin on the ferry, etc.), using dishonest methods and lining his pockets.
More recently, he was hired by the authorities of Togean Islands National Park (TNKT) to sell entry tickets. And this is even worse: in the name of the National Park, he outright scams tourists, either by selling tickets at a higher price, asking them to pay again, or charging children who are supposed to enter for free.
Here’s what you need to know: 1. Entry fee for the National Park: 150,000 IDR (ONLY FOR ADULTS, aged 18 and up)
2. This entry fee is only payable once, even if the ticket states it’s a daily price. These tickets were printed a long time ago, before tourists even had to pay anything, and since then the payment system has changed. So it’s indeed 150,000 IDR per person, payable once regardless of how long you stay in the Togeans.
3. Where to pay (depends on your entry point to the Togeans):
Ampana: entry fee payable when departing from Ampana port Gorontalo: entry fee payable upon arrival at Wakai port Bumbulan (Marisa): entry fee payable upon arrival at Dolong port
If you’re asked to pay these fees anywhere else or when leaving the Togeans, it’s a scam—don’t pay.
4. You should receive one receipt per person in exchange for the 150,000 IDR. If not, know that the money won’t go to the National Park but into the ticket seller’s pocket. If someone offers to charge you less (e.g., 100,000 IDR), you won’t get a receipt, so the money still won’t go to the National Park. Please don’t accept these practices, even if you think it’s good for your wallet (seriously, a 50,000 IDR discount is only about 3 €). The National Park needs these funds to protect the Togean Islands’ ecosystem. By saving 3 €, you’re just lining the pockets of a dishonest guy.
Several resorts have already reported Bagong’s (or Farid’s) dishonest practices to the National Park. The authorities are still struggling to find a trustworthy person to sell tickets in Wakai (no scams have been reported in the other two ports so far). We all hope this person will be replaced soon.
5. Contribution for the Ministry of Tourism: Since early 2019, every tourist staying in the Togean Islands must, in addition to the National Park entry fee, pay a 50,000 IDR contribution (regardless of the length of stay). These fees are to be paid at the same time as the 150,000 IDR for the National Park.
6. Price for renting a cabin on the ferry Wakai - Gorontalo (and vice versa): 500,000 IDR. If someone offers you 600,000 IDR, it’s a scam, and those extra 100,000 IDR will go into the same dishonest guy’s pocket (or one of his accomplices). Note that the 500,000 IDR already includes the commission for the person acting as an intermediary to rent the cabin.
7. Going rates for charter boats from Wakai to the various resorts (approximate prices, just to give you an idea—it may vary slightly from one boat operator to another or from one resort to another):
Wakai - Kadidiri (Harmony Bay, Kadidiri Paradise, Black Marlin, Pondo Lestari): usually free if the transfer is arranged by the resort (if you have a confirmed booking and stay more than one night), otherwise between 100,000 and 150,000 IDR Wakai - Una Una (Sanctum, Pristine Paradise): I’ll get back to you with the info, but you can also check with these two resorts. Wakai - Katupat (Fadhila Cottages and Bolilanga): 400,000 IDR Wakai - Bomba (Polyalisa, Poki-Poki, Araya Dive Resort, Island Retreat): 400,000 IDR Wakai - Malenge (Malenge Indah, Bahia Tomini, Sera Beach, Sandy Bay, Lestari Cottages): 600,000 IDR Wakai - Waleakodi (Lia Beach, Pulotiga Resort): 900,000 IDR
There you go, fellow travelers—my little contribution to help you avoid what’s known here as the "Wakai mafia."
I’ve included some photos of Bagong/Farid (found on Facebook) so you can recognize him. Note that he sometimes wears glasses, sometimes not, sometimes has a mustache, sometimes not, and sometimes wears his teacher’s uniform to appear more official or legitimate. Heh, the habit doesn’t make the monk ;)
Other shady individuals in Wakai:
Lamin: sometimes sells ferry tickets to Gorontalo, but mostly acts as a taxi to resorts, with shady deals and unfair prices. Uni: a seemingly charming woman, but not always honest. She offers cabin rentals on the ferry and arranges charter boat transfers to resorts.
And while I’m at it, if you meet "Miss Harbor" at Ampana port, run away like the plague. She doesn’t handle National Park ticket sales but will try to sell you a car rental for Toraja, Tentena, Luwuk, or Manado, a cabin rental on the ferry to Gorontalo, or other things. Her real name is Ulfa, and she’s a real scammer (on top of being an alcoholic and a bit unhinged). I’ll try to post something about her later.
Don’t worry, there are also plenty of great people in the Togean Islands :P :P
If, despite everything, you fall victim to these scammers’ schemes, be sure to report it to the resort where you’re staying. And of course, leave a comment here so I can report it to the National Park and the Ministry of Tourism (communications are difficult in the Togeans, and some resort owners don’t have many opportunities to contact the authorities). Together, we can put an end to these dishonest practices and make the Togean Islands even more beautiful :)
Have a great summer, travel safely, and return with your heart filled with the beauty of our world!
Hi there, I’m planning to visit the Raja Ampat Islands next June. It’s pretty tricky to organize. What’s the best gateway to get there? Do you know of any places to stay if I don’t want to go diving? Which agencies can provide information? Thanks so much for your help!
Hi there,
I’m a bit pressed for time... On one hand, the seller of the land I want to buy is in a hurry, but on the other, I’d have preferred to wait a bit. I’m worried about rushing things...
If any of you own land in Indonesia, could you share: an estimate of notary fees for a transaction under 10,000 € (using the classic local nominee structure), and what annual taxes I’d need to pay?
Also, if anyone knows a good notary in Lombok, I’d love the recommendation!
I’ve read quite a bit in English, but some info in French would be great!
Thanks for your help
I’m a bit pressed for time... On one hand, the seller of the land I want to buy is in a hurry, but on the other, I’d have preferred to wait a bit. I’m worried about rushing things...
If any of you own land in Indonesia, could you share: an estimate of notary fees for a transaction under 10,000 € (using the classic local nominee structure), and what annual taxes I’d need to pay?
Also, if anyone knows a good notary in Lombok, I’d love the recommendation!
I’ve read quite a bit in English, but some info in French would be great!
Thanks for your help
We’ve read it all about Bali: mass tourism, non-stop parties, ferry disasters, the kingdom of “Instagrammers,” pollution, “Bali belly”... But luckily, this island isn’t just about Kuta’s beaches and the Lempuyang Temple.
Sure, it’s not as exotic or off-the-beaten-path as other Indonesian islands (the Moluccas, Timor, Flores...), but we spent 3 weeks there and loved it!
Our (planned) itinerary in 7 stops: - Ubud (4 nights) - Sidemen (2 nights) - Gili Meno (3 nights) - Amed (2 nights) - Pemuteran (4 nights) - Munduk (2 nights) - Jatiluwih (2 nights)
We booked our accommodations in advance, and for the rest (drivers, activities...), we took it day by day with help from the homestays (making sure to contact them a few days ahead via WhatsApp).
In the end, it’s an “easy” destination, very affordable, and one that’s managed to keep a certain authenticity.
Sure, it’s not as exotic or off-the-beaten-path as other Indonesian islands (the Moluccas, Timor, Flores...), but we spent 3 weeks there and loved it!
Our (planned) itinerary in 7 stops: - Ubud (4 nights) - Sidemen (2 nights) - Gili Meno (3 nights) - Amed (2 nights) - Pemuteran (4 nights) - Munduk (2 nights) - Jatiluwih (2 nights)
We booked our accommodations in advance, and for the rest (drivers, activities...), we took it day by day with help from the homestays (making sure to contact them a few days ahead via WhatsApp).
In the end, it’s an “easy” destination, very affordable, and one that’s managed to keep a certain authenticity.
Hello everyone!
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda. Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs. This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast. Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday. We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠 We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁 We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes. Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing. Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop. On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Next episode coming soon: Ternate.
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda. Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs. This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast. Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday. We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠 We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁 We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes. Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing. Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop. On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Next episode coming soon: Ternate.
Hi there,
This is my first post on this site. I’m planning a 3–4 week trip in July–August 2026 to Malaysia or Indonesia. I’m looking for 1–3 adults who’d be interested in joining the journey. I love traveling by adapting as much as possible to local life. I’m used to organizing the trip: itineraries, accommodations, transport, etc. In the past, I’ve worked in international medical assistance and I’m well-versed in travel medicine.
