Posts by Citipati

For well-established, generalist French-speaking agencies:

- Glacier Safari Treks - Base Camp Trek

Keep in mind that a "French-speaking" guide will be significantly more expensive than one who simply speaks English.

You’ve got plenty of time to figure things out if your trip is planned for 2027. :)

Don’t hesitate to check out the various Facebook groups about traveling in Nepal—there’s a lot of useful info there.

Just so you know, you don’t need to go to the mountains to prepare for a trek in Nepal.

If you have access to a gym, a few hiking trails near your place (I’m sure there are some in Normandy), that’s more than enough.

In terms of preparation (without going to the mountains):

1. Use the stepper at the gym (stair climbing) and the elliptical bike (for cardio). 2. Walk and hike, trying to find hills to get some elevation gain +/-. (From my experience hiking on the Breton/Norman coast, you can easily find significant elevation changes.)

The altitude you’ll find in the Alps won’t compare to what you’ll experience in Nepal (I know what I’m talking about—I live there). AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) becomes an issue above 3,500m... So no matter how much hiking you do in the Alps, you’ll rarely reach that altitude. I’d recommend focusing on building great cardio (biking, running, races) and practicing carrying a backpack instead.

Personally, I preferred Chhukhung (Chhukhung Tsho, Chhukhung Ri, or even a bit higher up to Imja Tsho at the foot of Amphu Labsta). It’s a bit of a detour, but the scenery on this side is totally worth it (and it’s way less crowded than Gokyo).

Yes, of course. On a good day of hiking, no problem. You should plan for 28 km, -1,900 m +600 m elevation gain.

You can also start with Gokyo instead of EBC—everything’s possible if you’re fit and don’t have AMS. :)

Over 12-13 days, you can follow an itinerary like this:

1. Arrival in Lukla - Namche 2. Rest & Acclimatization (Khumjung loop or round trip to Thame... but be careful, in 2024 the trail was heavily degraded (many landslides)). 3. Namche - Pangboche (or Somare) 4. Pangboche - Dingboche 5. Dingboche - Lobuche 6. Lobuche - EBC - Gorakshep 7. Gorakshep - Kala Patthar - Dzongla 8. Dzongla - Cho La - Gokyo 9. Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Gokyo 10. Gokyo - Machhermo 11. Machhermo - Namche 12. Namche - Lukla

If you have a 13th day, keep it as a "just in case" buffer, since you never know what the weather and/or flights will be like. Check the weather daily—there are some fairly reliable sites for precipitation and storms (Wunderground, for example).

March is still the tail end of winter, so there could be snowfall and icy trails. Last year, there was heavy snowfall until quite late.

Following up on your other post about the Everest/Gokyo trek...

If you go with a trekking guide or agency, you can easily ask them to help with this. That said, the Khumbu region—Namche or Khumjung—is probably the wealthiest and least needy area in Nepal. I’m not convinced setting up a fundraiser for local schools would be all that useful.

If you were heading to a more remote and poorer area (like Rolwaling, or even the Solu region to a lesser extent), I’d say go for it... But in Namche, families are relatively well off.

A guide isn’t mandatory for the Khumbu (Everest/Gokyo area).

Having a guide won’t particularly help with crossing the passes—everything’s still well-marked and well-trodden. That said, it’s up to you to take responsibility. If you’re not feeling it (fresh snow, tricky conditions), don’t take unnecessary risks.

The Cho La pass, which could be a direct route from the Everest Valley to Gokyo, doesn’t forgive bad conditions. Either way, if the weather’s awful, you can always go via the south—you won’t lose time because even though the trail’s longer that way (via Phorche), it’s also much easier.

Bottom line: it’s your call, but there’s no obligation at all... and a guide definitely won’t save you if something goes wrong. Few guides have the professionalism to handle medical emergencies. The only real benefit of having one is convenience—they can point you toward the best guesthouses or give you tips here and there. (Just make sure to hire a *Sherpa*—a local who knows the area well.)

I’d recommend the Panchase trek (just west of Pokhara and Lake Phewa), or the Tanting trek (northeast of Pokhara, around Sikles—you can also check out Kapuche Lake).

Bandipur is gorgeous to visit, but Gorkha, I’m not so sure about. :)

Hello,

The Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek isn’t that easy for beginners. There are a lot of steps on the trail, and the elevation gain is pretty significant if you’re not used to it.

Around the Jomsom/Kagbeni area, though, it’s much less of an issue. You can explore at a relaxed pace without necessarily dealing with tough trails for your knees or major elevation changes. You can easily spend a week in Lower Mustang.

If you’re not familiar with the local customs, it’s a good idea to hire a guide, but it’s not mandatory (despite what the authorities always claim). A guide can help you navigate the trails, handle guesthouse bookings, negotiate jeep rides if needed, and more. If you prefer to explore on your own, that’s no problem either. It’s pretty easy to find accommodations without booking in advance.

For a sleeping bag, you can buy or rent one in Pokhara.

There’s a misunderstanding here. I’m not going via the Teri La—I was just mentioning the “trail to the Teri La” because the descent from Naar Pass brings us to the trail that starts from Naar toward the Teri La (the one following the Labse Khola), but only 2 km from Naar, so not in Upper Mustang. 🙂

But yeah, Mustang is gorgeous. I’d already been there before the road was built, which has really disfigured quite a bit of the area. 😐

Yes, the elevation gain on the Naar-Phu crossing is pretty massive. I’m counting on the acclimatization I’ll have from the Namun crossing + the Himlung BC round trip to avoid too many issues. The toughest part of the crossing is definitely the Naar Pass because the route isn’t well-marked. The path to the Phu Pass is relatively obvious, and I think the climb can be done in about 2 hours (~900m elevation gain). If we set off at 4 or 5 AM, we should be able to get there by 7 AM, leaving the whole day to tackle the Naar Pass and reach the Teri La trail on the other side. Either way, I’ve planned to take the bare minimum for safety (i.e., tent/sleeping bag + food + a Garmin InReach GPS beacon, by the way) in case we need to camp along the way.

As for a guide, I’ve got a few contacts with independent guides and agencies, so I’ll see what they offer—keeping it as simple and lightweight as possible.

Hey Djalma,

The Namun La (Namun Bhanjyang) is an old route well-known by the Gurung community, which used to connect the Marsyangdi Valley (Chame, etc.), especially during the monsoon, long before the main Annapurna Circuit trail was created and developed.

Originally, even though I’ve thoroughly scouted the route, I plan to hire a guide from Pokhara to Ngawal (so for the Sikles-Timang crossing and also for Naar-Phu, which is mandatory, but no guide after Ngawal).

Here’s my full detailed itinerary:

1. Pokhara - Sikles (jeep, though hiking it is also tempting) - Tasa Kharka. 2. Tasa Kharka - Kori (3800m) 3. Kori - Thulek - Thurchu (a remote pasture at ~4100m below Dudh Pokhari and the Namun La pass) - This is the "area to scout since the path isn’t very clear." 4. Thurchu - Dudh Pokhari (4600m) - Thurchu (round trip to "admire" the sacred lake - acclimatization) 5. Thurchu - Namun La (4850m) - Danfe Kharka (4200m) 6. Danfe Kharka - Timang (direct descent from the kharka all the way to Timang) - Koto 7. Koto - Meta (3600m, done and redone, this’ll be my 4th time, so I know it well) 8. Meta - Phu (4100m) 9. Phu - Himlung BC (4900m - acclimatization...and to admire the insane scenery there with the Nemjung) 10. Phu - Phu Pass (5100m) - Naar Pass (5300m) - Naar (4200m) This is the most challenging part, the goal being to attempt the crossing in one long day (+2500m -2500m elevation change). I have the GPS track for it, but the Phu Pass/Naar Pass segment is as confusing as it gets. 11. Naar (rest) 12. Naar - Kang La (5350m) - Ngawal 13. Ngawal - Manang - Tilicho BC (4150m) 14. Tilicho BC - Tilicho Lake (5000m) - Eastern Pass (5300m) - Tilicho BC North (4950m) 15. Tilicho BC North - Mesokanto La North (5450m) - Thinigaon 16. Thinigaon - Kalapani 17. Kalapani - Narchyang 18. Narchyang - Ghorepani 19. Ghorepani - Ghandruk - Pokhara

It’s pretty intense with some serious segments, so I’m not taking any risks this year—it’s in November. Usually, I head out in early/mid-September. But in 2024, I got slammed in the Rolwaling/Khumbu area, which cooled me down a bit. :D

Hey everyone,

My plan for next November is to head back (yet again) to the Annapurnas to complete a route I’d always promised myself I’d do one day. Here’s the breakdown:

1. Start from Sikles and join the Annapurna Circuit by first going through Kori, then the Namun La (or Namun Bhanjyang). It’s a bit of a forgotten route, and I haven’t found much info on it—no .gpx files or firsthand accounts. Still, I’ve roughly mapped it out using different sources.

2. After that, I plan to head up to Phu to do the direct Phu Pass/Naar Pass traverse to Naar. It’s doable in 2 days, but why not in 1 if the weather’s good and I set off early enough?

3. Finally, I’ll head toward the Mesokanto North Pass (after a short camp at Tilicho North BC) to descend the entire Gandaki Valley down to Nayapul.

I’m obviously looking for any tips or feedback (if you’ve got any), and maybe a travel buddy who’s up for a little off-the-beaten-path adventure. 😄

At this time of year, the haze (smog) is pretty much constant in the KTM valley and in India (check the pollution levels on IqAir—it’s pretty obvious).

In the mountains, the "haze" is less of an issue, but there’s still a bit of a veil in the air.

If you head up to Jomsom or the Ghorepani/Poon Hill area, it’ll be clearer (you’ll also have way less pollution than in KTM), though there’s still a slight veil during the day (the view will be clearer very early in the morning).

Quel est le tracé de cette fameuse Transhimalayenne ? Parce que l'Himalaya, c'est grand...

On peut passer, certes, certains pays, mais le Népal reste soumis à certaines conditions compliquées pour l'atteindre par la route.

1. La frontière Inde > Népal n'est pas un problème. Mais aucune frontière avec l'Inde n'est exploitable pour un voyageur étranger "roulant", à l'ouest, c'est le Pakistan, autant dire l'ennemi naturel, frontière fermée ; à l'est c'est la Birmanie et/ou la Chine/Tibet, des territoires disputés et des frontières fermées aux étrangers.

2. La frontière Chine (Tibet) > Népal est traversable "en groupe" avec une guide local, et uniquement en passant par une agence. Ca passe d'ailleurs mieux dans un sens que dans l'autre. Des touristes venant de Chine auront moins de complications à la frontière que des touristes venant du Népal (réputés supporters de la cause tibétaine). Bref, en vélo, en moto ou voiture personnelle...c'est niet.

3. Vu les derniers tours de vis du gouvernement chinois contre les Ouighours du Xinjiang, ça me semble aussi illusoire de circuler "librement" sur tout l'ouest chinois.

Lorsque les gens parlent de transhimalayenne, je suppose, que c'est le tracé de la route de la soie. Ce qui ne concerne pas le Népal. :)

Baikal > Nepal, déjà, tu peux oublier.

Uniquement par la route, ça ne passe pas, ni par la Chine au Nord, ni par l'Inde à l'Ouest ou à l'Est.

Bon courage.

Et puis bon...

A priori, sur les circuits les plus fréquentés, on peut prendre le TIMS + permis directement au départ du trek. (valable pour le Langtang, la zone des Annapurnas - ACAP et pour l'Everest)

Et c'est pas plus cher.

Pas de TIMS pour le Manaslu ?

J'aurais cru, au moins à partir de Dharapani. Car pour Naar-Phu, par exemple, c'est systématique et logique, car on emprunte la zone ACAP, soumise elle aussi au TIMS.

Ceci étant, Paras a raison.

Techniquement, pour un TIMS vert (donc individuel), c'est au touriste d'aller le chercher. Ca ne peut pas être gérer par une agence, car il leur sera délivré un TIMS bleu (groupe).

L'an dernier, j'avais du y aller moi-même car même si je faisais une partie de mon trek avec une équipe de porteurs/guide, je poursuivais seul par la suite et devais donc avoir un permis individuel.

Bon, maintenant... on sait aussi que les agences contournent allègrement les règles quand ça les arrange (trekkeur fantôme pour zones demandant à minima 2 personnes par exemple). Si l'agence envoie un "non-népalais" faire les démarches, ça fonctionne forcément.

N'importe quelle agence de trek locale peut s'occuper de tout ça.

J'avais juste réservé les transports (voiture privée + bus et vols locaux), mais ils peuvent également s'occuper des permis si besoin. Moyennant bien sûr quelques frais "administratifs".

Tu peux t'adresser à basecamp trek (agence francophone bien connue).