Posts by Rotsaka

It's clear, nothing beats going to see for yourself.

Personally, I wish I’d read LP beforehand—I don’t see much in what they say that I wouldn’t have said myself, and I don’t find any gratuitous bashing, just a point of view that would’ve been really useful to me.

But it just goes to show that tastes and colors vary, and so do people’s feelings, which confirms—if it were even needed—that we all experience travel in our own way and evaluate our stays differently. And that’s a good thing.

Well, great.

It was really worth announcing not so long ago that there would be no more visas for Kenya, while setting up an e-TA that was far from free and required just as much, if not more, detailed information than for countries where you can get a visa at the border. In short, a more than mediocre process for a very dubious advertisement.

Now they’re adding these space-age insurance policies for who knows what service, meant for everyone without distinction. If I’m not mistaken, in Tanzania, it’s only for Zanzibar, whereas Kenya imposes it on its entire territory.

Might as well announce a $70 visa and allow people to get it at the border instead of these delaying tactics.

Hi there, I think the best option if you don’t have any contacts locally is to check with the Adore Comores agency, which is located on the little square just above the port in Moroni. But I think they do have a contact if I’m not mistaken. I didn’t do anything with them—I just relied on my local contacts—but it’s the only place I know of to organize things. Happy planning!

Hello, I think you're right to inform everyone so they can decide whether to go (or not) with full awareness. It's almost certain there will be significant flooding, but its exact location and scale aren't precisely known, of course. Across East and Central Africa, as well as in the Indian Ocean, authorities are expecting this and preparing accordingly, having already communicated about it. Again, periods of drought—more or less severe depending on the location—are also expected. It's impossible to predict the specific consequences for a particular trip, date range, or location. But this way, no one will be caught off guard if they're affected during their stay.

Good evening, It all depends on your level as a hiker and also your sense of adventure (!).

When you go hiking in a park, it’s very straightforward because you can take a guide offered by the park, possibly porters, everything is well-marked, and you don’t need a guide or an agency. It’s doable for everyone since ANGAP, which manages the parks, organizes everything. In my opinion, it’s the best balance between adventure and autonomy. Pic Boby in Andringitra Park is great, but you can also check out Isalo, where there are hikes, or Marojejy in the north, which offers beautiful, lesser-known, and less crowded options. Madagascar National Parks Home – the parks’ website, I haven’t checked it in a while. It used to be well done.

Then there are the options offered by agencies (but outside the parks, since inside them, there’s really no point). You’ll have to do some research, but if I were to look into this, I’d choose a trek in the Makay region—it’s a very little-explored area until recently. And in this case, the benefit of an agency is obvious.

Finally, if you’re open to adventure, you can gather info, and there are plenty of options in Madagascar. What astaffort mentioned—who’s an expert—is worth looking into. Especially the Masoala Peninsula. But you could also do the "smugglers' trail" between the highlands and the east coast. I wasn’t aware of the southwest option toward Morombe... There are the Sakaleona Falls, the largest in Madagascar. But actually, there are tons of options. In any case, make sure to get good info, and yes, a local guide seems essential.

In short, there’s a whole range of possibilities.

Hi there, It really depends on what you're looking for and what you like. Personally, I don’t have amazing memories of Mauritius. Maybe my expectations were too high, and in the end, I was really disappointed. I can’t fault the comments—I agree with them. I didn’t find the beaches great, and I wasn’t particularly won over by the interior either. If what you love is snorkeling, it’s honestly pretty mediocre. Apart from a few spots where they take you because there are a few poor little clownfish dueling around some surviving anemones in the middle of destroyed coral, there are packs of stray dogs all over the island and trash along the roads, etc. I’m sure if you pick a top hotel in a good location, you can relax in great conditions while mixing in a few walks here and there. If what you love is also discovering a culture, a country, enjoying hikes, and nice snorkeling spots, and you’re not looking for the fanciest hotels with the best standards... honestly, I prefer all the other islands in the Indian Ocean (though I can’t speak for the Seychelles). But as I said, I was expecting Eden, and the disappointment was just as big. Probably with lower expectations, I wouldn’t have been as let down. I don’t have a *bad* memory of it at all, but I much prefer Madagascar, Zanzibar, Réunion...

Okay, that’s a bit hasty. The lagoon in Zanzibar is exceptionally beautiful, and I haven’t found anything like it on the Kenyan coast. In Zanzibar, there are still a few quiet spots with hardly anyone around, even if they’re disappearing little by little—and again, it’s different from the Kenyan coast. Finally, there’s Stone Town.

Hello,

Totally agree on the way to travel—everyone does it their own way, and I’ve got no problem with that. It supports people’s livelihoods, and that’s great. For others, with all the tools available today, honestly, I don’t know of any destination (though I haven’t traveled everywhere) where an agency is indispensable unless it’s required.

I’m not sure it’s just because of negative publicity on social media, but rather a combination of factors: of course, countries’ desire to favor certain types of tourists plays a role, the lack of info for independent travel fuels the fact that there’s little info and thus even less demand for self-organized trips to a destination, the desire for hassle-free travel, a greater need for comfort than before, and therefore less appetite for less organized travel, etc. I don’t know if this is universal, but it’s a fact that backpackers have decreased over the last 25 years in several destinations I know.

In the end, Tanzania, Uganda, and Rwanda generate more questions about agencies than about self-drive trips—that’s a fact. Yet for these three countries, and to varying degrees, I don’t think it’s particularly difficult to organize your trip. It might be more expensive than using an agency—that’s possible, and even then, it’s not certain.

But anyway, in Tanzania, it’s perfectly doable on your own. You can travel Tanzania without an agency or guide. And if you want to be more certain of seeing animals, don’t feel like dealing with potentially more likely hassles, prefer a well-structured itinerary, or don’t feel comfortable driving on rough tracks or long distances on roads that aren’t great... there are plenty of agencies for that. And forum members who can give advice. And that’s a good thing.

Hi there, I don’t know if the Vezo are particularly cheerful and open-minded, and I don’t think it’s any easier or harder to meet people in Antsirabe. If you’re coming for 20 days anyway, just strike up a conversation while running errands, walking around, or going to a bar or restaurant—you’ll make some acquaintances. It’s the same in Antsirabe as anywhere else. Making friends? I wouldn’t go that far. In the end, it’s in your hands

That’s not wrong—everything’s shot up with the tourist influx that’s accelerated at breakneck speed these last few years. The cost of insurance is the cherry on top, that’s for sure, and now for 2 adults and 2 kids, it’s nearly 400 € just for visas/insurance. Pretty wild.

For our part, we really loved Zanzibar, but liked it a bit less when we went back because there were just too many people and the island’s being built up so fast. Not really our thing anymore. The 50 boats at Mnemba chasing the poor dolphins (which ethical companies no longer visit because they’re way too disturbed), 30 boats all in the same spot for snorkeling at Safari Blue or elsewhere… it’s getting crazier and crazier.

But yeah, there’s still plenty of ways to get away from it all, to admire the beauty of the lagoon with the wind in your hair and your feet planted in the white sand, to take a dhow out to the reef and get some air in the lagoon or beyond, to wander the lagoon at low tide, through the villages or the little streets of Stone Town… The current development matches what a lot of people want, and that’s great for Zanzibar, since part of the population benefits.

For our part, we’re heading toward quieter horizons now, and like those hidden spots, we’re keeping them to ourselves. At least some of them

Hi there, Since the taxes we're talking about are for tourists, it's not even fiscal pressure on Zanzibar's population. It only affects people passing through.

Comparing isn't reasonable. Okay, 45% taxes in France vs. 20%, but the level of infrastructure, public services, social benefits, pensions, and so on isn't the same as in our countries. A huge part of those taxes is given back and redistributed.

Honestly, I don't even see how there can be 20% in Tanzania.

Really great videos, it's so nice to watch and offers beautiful views of rural Rwanda. And a different way to discover it. Well done!

Hello! No particular difficulty traveling in Uganda by self-drive, especially if you're used to rough roads. Compared to many countries, I find them pretty good in Uganda. You can also visit the parks by self-drive with or without a ranger, depending on what you prefer. Obviously, you have a better chance of seeing things with a ranger, but it’s not exactly the same experience either. You’re less alone.

When it comes to gorillas and chimpanzees, in my opinion, seeing one of the two is already great. And to be honest—and maybe just to offer a slightly different perspective—I didn’t feel much during my visit to our gorilla cousins. It was in the DRC, in South Kivu, not Rwanda or Uganda. Conditions were excellent, everything was perfect, but emotionally, I didn’t feel more than when crossing paths with and spending time observing any other animal. The fact that the encounter is guaranteed, that you’re in a group, even a small one, isn’t really my thing. If I had to do it again, I would, because you can’t know in advance how you’ll feel. But I prefer the uncertainty and less structured encounters with animals.

But everyone should make up their own mind—like I’ve said many times, Uganda has plenty to do and see. It’s stunning, and don’t forget the Karamoja region, which in my view is the most beautiful part of Uganda and certainly the most exotic.

Hi there, I’m not entirely sure I understand the question. From Tamatave to Fort Dauphin, you can take a bush taxi the whole way. There’s no southern limit. You could also consider a mix of boat and bush taxi by taking the boats on the Pangalanes Canal. Finally, there’s also the option—more comfortable than the bush taxi—of joining carpool groups heading up or down empty to FD that offer seats.

Good evening, Like Astaffort and me for over 20 years, whenever I can, I go to Sakamanga. First because the place is really nice, quiet, and also because it’s perfectly located—you can do almost everything on foot from there. At least, most things. If it’s not available, Niaouli seems like a good option too and is recommended by quite a few people.

Queen’s Palace, strolling through the streets to discover and appreciate the architecture of the buildings—especially the oldest ones—the markets like Zoma in the city center, street food to try, and restaurants since there are plenty of great ones. I can only recommend visiting the Rova of Ambohimanga on the outskirts of Tana, now very quick to access since it’s right by the new highway. A beautiful place, rich in history, with a stunning view of the rice fields from the viewpoint.

In the surrounding area, personally, I’m not a huge fan of Andasibe, but obviously, it’s an option. Lake Mantasoa is another possibility (though I’m not a big fan of it either), and finally, you can do a loop: Tana - Ampefy - Antsirabe - Tana. Doable in 3 or 4 days, or even less. Around Ampefy, there are several nice walks to do, like the Lily Falls or the geyser site. Then, a beautiful drive to Antsirabe, where there are more sights to see, like Lake Tritriva or the rice fields near Betafo. The return to Tana via National Route 7 is rough on the back—it’s almost like a dirt road.

Happy planning!

Hi there, No worries, there’s no rush to get updates on the preparations. Yes, there’s plenty to do in the south and west of the country—no doubt about it. And if the kids won’t forgive you (or won’t enjoy too much time on the road), it’s definitely better to limit the travel and distances.

About Ebola—yep, definitely something to keep an eye on. Whatever happens, given how it’s transmitted, there’s almost no risk for a passing traveler. Avoiding contact with bodily fluids from sick or deceased people isn’t too hard to manage. There are few cases in Uganda, and Uganda has closed its borders with the DRC, but the issue is that many countries have also closed their borders with the affected countries: DRC, Sudan, and Uganda. Recently, KLM, for example, canceled flights so their pilots could continue operating to the United States. Anyway, let’s hope things don’t get worse, as you said.

I hope you get a response, but the last time the forum user you're asking (Nomade0210) was active was in 2017, so it's not a sure thing. Maybe better to start a new thread with your questions.

Wow... Congrats and thanks for the little recap, it's really nice.

It sounds easy when you read it, but knowing the place (in polluting, motorized mode), 2 weeks to do all that with the detours to Ranomafana and Tsaranoro is still quite an achievement.

Awesome, well done!

Hello, No complaints about the well-informed advice from Etranger. How long did that route take you? Any photos of RN5 or RN12?

Since you seem like experienced cyclists, in my opinion, you could consider starting your bike ride earlier than Manakara if you're setting out for 20 days.

At first, I’d still recommend biking from Tana to Antsirabe via Ampefy because the traffic isn’t too crazy, the landscapes are stunning, and the road is pretty good. After Antsirabe, you can either hop back on your bikes and continue on the RN7 (the beginning is still fairly busy), or take a *taxi-brousse* to reach either Ambositra, Ambohimahasoa, or Fianarantsoa—since the RN7 is much quieter after those towns. Even if the road isn’t great, it’s not as bad as the Tana-Antsirabe stretch. Or, of course, Manakara as suggested by Etranger.

From Fianarantsoa, you can cross the forest and take the gorgeous descent along the massive Ranomafana waterfall before reaching Manakara after a long stretch through the hills of Madagascar’s far east.

Alternatively, in the dry season, just after Ambohimahasoa and before Fianarantsoa, you can take the RN25 just before the bridge on the left toward Manadroy/Ambalakindresy, then head to Ranomafana via a rural track. It’s a proper dirt road, but it lets you avoid a section of the RN7 and keeps you in a quiet area (though you’ll pass through less forest than if you take the RN45 at Alakamisy Ambohimaha).

For hotels, you can also mark them on Google Maps and plan your stops accordingly.