Posts by TerryTara

I’ll admit, I’m always surprised to see people asking for very general practical info while at the same time hiring a driver and/or guide. They should be able to inform you—if they can’t, that’s a problem. And if they *do* inform you but you don’t trust them, that’s also pretty problematic. So here’s a real question: why, when it comes to general info, do you feel the need/desire to go beyond what the professionals you’ve hired can tell you? :)

Anyway, to answer your question: the road is in good condition for 95% of your KTM-Pokhara-Kande route (you’ll need to walk from Kande to reach Australian Camp afterward). The roads are usable and already well-traveled, and this will be even more the case in early November. Some sections are damaged and, let’s say, "bumpy," but there’s nothing particularly concerning on your route right now. The chances of it being even better in early November are high. Enjoy your trip!

Namaste, I can’t even imagine the difference between Pokhara in ’82 and today. Poon Hill is a great idea in terms of accessibility. It’s a much less touristy time, quieter, and really pleasant to explore. The trek to Mardi Himal will push you higher than Ghorepani, so there’s more risk of snow. Over 4-5 days but still accessible, the area between Falgune Danda/Nagi/Karbakeli/Fulbari/Kokhe Danda with a return via Ghorepani/Poon Hill could be awesome—it’s doable, and the snow risk is possible but more limited than elsewhere since it’s not as high. Dobato on the other side is amazing but has a much higher risk of snow.

That said, I’d be careful about what you mentioned—no less than 10°C during the day. Honestly, with the altitude and the time of year, it’ll definitely be colder. That’s roughly the temperature you’d get in KTM overall, so at 2,500-3,000m, it’ll be colder for sure, especially in early February.

Hope this helps you get a clearer picture! :)

Doing the Annapurna Circuit in March can be challenging—not to mention the number of tourists—but the weather makes it uncertain whether you’ll be able to cross the pass. Contrary to what was just mentioned, there’s nothing complicated about the permits (just the ACAP permit is required). However, if you go through an agency, they’ll handle everything for you.

My wife (Nepali) just started her own trekking agency last month. She’s been working as a freelance trekking guide for several years. She can help you organize everything and provide you with a French-speaking guide.

Her name is Apsara, and you can contact her on WhatsApp at: +977 9866477567.

Hence my question: is it possible to book lodges in advance before departure? Or, better yet, day by day?

Lodges still aren’t booked in Nepal. That’s a good thing because it limits the number of "trekkers" a bit.

Lodges *can* be booked in Nepal—tourism is so significant in certain areas that reservations are mandatory on many routes during peak season and in some villages (Sagarmatha, Annapurna Circuit, Annapurna Base Camp, Manaslu Circuit). My wife, who’s a trek guide, booked accommodations over a month in advance last October/November for the Annapurna Circuit, and some were already fully booked by large groups.

You can absolutely do the Annapurna Circuit without a guide—it’s allowed, and the 2023 law hasn’t been implemented at all. That said, be prepared and organized. If there’s no bad weather, there’s little to worry about, but if there’s severe weather like at the end of October last year with huge snowfalls, it becomes a crisis, and there aren’t enough lodges for everyone. So be prepared. Many underestimate the reality on the ground because it’s crowded and touristy, but it’s still a hostile, high-altitude environment. It’s not the "real" Nepal—most people there are just focused on money, and if you run into trouble without a guide, locals will try to overcharge you. They already overcharge Nepalis, so foreigners get it worse. During the snowfalls, jeeps charging tourists to descend from Manang asked for up to $500–$600 to bring them down, even though the honest price for foreigners is 5,000 NPR per person. So be prepared! :)

Thanks Djalma! Great tip

@Terry Your intro page is amazing—what a life journey! 😐

I can confirm it’s not the most conventional path, but hey, anything’s possible in life! :)

Thanks for the quick reply!

Seriously! Nepal has really changed! Hopefully for the better :)

I’ll take the time to look into this GHT route. If I have any questions, I’ll go ahead and add you to my contacts.

See you around!

Some things have changed for the better, others for the worse. Development always has its pros and cons, and perspectives vary. I live in Nepal, so I can mostly say positive things about this adopted country of mine. What’s certain is that Nepal remains a wonderful playground :)

Feel free to reach out if you need anything—you can contact me directly through the website or social media: Nepal ma Tara.

Do you know why? I crossed it starting from Sundarijal toward Langtang (Laurebina Pass). The "park" isn’t very high in altitude—it’s mostly forest, and there’s little risk of getting lost. To be honest, I don’t know what makes it special. You exit pretty quickly by crossing into Helambu.

Several reasons—the army now controls the area much more strictly than in the past. Even if you take side trails, you risk running into soldiers who aren’t exactly welcoming. Last year, I found myself at gunpoint, being yelled at about what I was doing there, even though I technically hadn’t entered the park yet and was just passing through a regular village.

There have been numerous "incidents," both real and premeditated (attacks, kidnappings, murders), making the area sensitive. There have also been a few animal attacks, which led to measures like "no solo travelers in the park." This applies to Nepalis too—they don’t let anyone wander alone and take contact details from everyone passing through. On the western side at Jamacho, you’re forced to take a single out-and-back trail, and they’ll tell you the latest time you must return. If you don’t, they’ll call you, and if you don’t answer, they’ll contact your emergency contact.

Personally, I think it’s overkill, and unless someone explains it clearly to me, I find it ridiculous. The same thing happened near Champa Devi due to "incidents," but there’s no control there. Same with Phulchoki, near Godawari—it’s even more absurd because there’s literally an army presence at the summit.

But that’s Nepal—sometimes you just have to accept you won’t understand why, haha

Hi TerryTara,

I had the chance to go trekking several times in Nepal (Annapurna Circuit, ABC, Three Passes Trek in the Everest region, Langtang-Helambu) but it’s been a while (2008-2011). Since then, I’ve been wondering if it’s still possible to do treks solo without a guide or porter. Also, do you have any updates on regulations regarding permits and the areas you can trek through? Finally, is there a long-distance trek in the country? One that lasts several months of walking?

Thanks for your answers

It has indeed been a while—Nepal is quite different now compared to back then :)

Solo treks without a guide or porter are still definitely possible, and nothing has changed except for the "Restricted Areas" like Nar, Upper Mustang, Manaslu, etc. The only new requirement is that you now need a guide for Shivapuri National Park, whereas before you didn’t. If you speak some Nepali or have strong persuasion skills, you don’t necessarily need a guide—just being with a Nepali is enough.

As for a long-distance trek, the most famous one is the GHT, the Great Himalaya Trail, which crosses the Himalayan range. There are variations between the classic high route and the lower route, which was more recently defined to avoid restricted areas, allowing you to do it completely independently from start to finish. This helps with skill/knowledge issues since there are technical sections, like the pass between Makalu and Sagarmatha (Sherpani Pass), which sometimes require camping.

But the GHT is so long with all the elevation gain that it’s typically broken into several parts, allowing you to complete it in 2, 3, 4, or more trips.

Beyond the GHT, there are plenty of trekking routes that can be combined or adjusted to hike for weeks or even months without any problem. The Himalayas are so vast that trekking all the valleys in Nepal in one lifetime isn’t possible—unless you’re a superhuman like Kilian Jornet, haha

I’ll try to shed some light and be transparent about prices, since as a South Asia Travel Organizer living in Nepal with my wife, a trekking guide, I think I know the current rates inside and out.

First off, I don’t like comparing different professionals’ offers because what’s included varies from one provider to another. Even with a similar program, I find it difficult—if not impossible—to compare, because it depends on the quality of the guide/porter, the trekking season, and the customer service provided by the agency or independent guide. Just look at how many people come to me during peak season because their agencies don’t help when there’s a problem with the program, like right now when most Nepali passes have been buried under meters of snow for the past two days. The price might have been attractive, but in many cases, it doesn’t include problem management—except for helicopters and making a huge profit off trekkers’ insurance.

Then, of course, there’s the provider’s origin. All French agencies delegate to local providers. I imagine this has advantages for some (like insurance), but what about the quality of the service and, more importantly, fair compensation for local workers? Last April, I met a trekking group on the Nar-Phu to Thorung La circuit who had paid over 4000 € per person for 18 days with a well-known agency (I won’t name names—Al...). Talking to the FRENCH-SPEAKING guide, he told me he was paid 2500 NPR per day and was eagerly waiting for tips because clients from this big French company are usually generous. Those are his words, and it’s pretty sad... For comparison, experienced independent English-speaking guides generally charge around 3500 NPR per day (not including tips). I find it outrageous what some French agencies pay, but at least the guide is guaranteed work throughout the year.

But even with a local agency, there’s no certainty about fair payment for the guide. The biggest Nepali agencies, which work in volume and offer attractive deals, pay guides between 1400 and 1800 NPR per day in 2025. Even more outrageous, but it explains why tips are MANDATORY with these agencies. For example, a French-speaking guide should normally earn at least 5000 NPR per day.

For the most organized guides, their salary is based on the number of participants. This allows clients to pay less individually while better compensating the guide and giving them more financial visibility throughout the year, since no one treks 12 months a year. It also makes it possible to offer a fair price for solo trekkers. The cost varies depending on whether food and lodging are included. Many don’t like doing this because they feel like they’re losing money, but sometimes it’s actually the opposite. In many places (only the very touristy ones), if the client has a guide but pays for the guesthouse themselves, many lodge owners don’t hesitate to include the guide’s expenses (room & dal bhat) because they tolerate guides earning a little extra from clients not consuming much, but not clients saving money at the expense of BOTH the guide AND the lodge. So, depending on the route and the provider, paying for a package can actually be a saving beyond just convenience, where the client doesn’t have to worry about anything.

Prices can vary enormously between regions. Sagarmatha is extremely expensive for both clients and guides/porters (800 NPR for a porter’s dal bhat in Gorakshep when their bed is the common room couch—it stings, especially when they’re paid 1000–1200 NPR per day when working for agencies), while Rolwaling, for example, is much cheaper, with prices that make sense given the overall cost of living in Nepal. Prices adjust based on how personalized the program is and what’s included. A route off the beaten path may be priced higher because it requires more knowledge and work than a standardized trek.

Ultimately, beyond a specific price, I think it’s up to each person to assess the quality of the agency or independent guide’s work, their expertise, and what they bring to clients. In my opinion, there’s a minimum ethical standard to respect (for example, 2000 NPR per day in 2025 for a porter who doesn’t speak English, and you’ll still need to add a tip). After that, it’s up to each person to decide based on the costs inherent to the route (private vehicle, number of meals included, etc.) and the guide’s quality. The advice I can give is that no matter if you find a cheap or expensive service, what matters is being happy to travel with the people you hire. You’ll be sharing an extraordinary experience with them, and the joy of that shared moment usually makes you happy to pay the person who worked for you and gave you a unique experience. If that bothers you, then don’t hire a guide and explore the trekking areas allowed for independent travelers—it’ll definitely cost less, no doubt about that haha.

No one gets rich from trekking in Nepal. Some see it as a financial opportunity, but those who last are people who deeply love their job and are happy to share their country because it’s far from an easy profession, whether in the short or long term. Except maybe for guides doing Poon Hill 28 times a year and nothing else. But what about those spending 9 months a year above 4000m between Sagarmatha, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Annapurna, etc.?

Of course, there are always scammers and dishonest people—some who have a public Facebook group but it’s actually run by the guide’s wife to only recommend her husband. Others who are so highly recommended that they say yes to everyone and then, at the last minute, tell them they’re no longer available and give them an inexperienced guide who doesn’t speak French, just to maximize their income. But luckily, these things always come to light. That’s why, before hiring someone, it’s important to check their professionalism and ask for guarantees (guide license, agency’s legal information, etc.). Traveling isn’t that simple, haha.

Beyond specific prices, I’ll end by saying that what’s most important is ethics. Hiring a porter is ethical; loading them up with 50kg on their back isn’t. Any agency that puts more than 20kg on a porter’s back is practicing modern slavery. Yes, some do it personally to build their lodge at high altitude because they have no choice—otherwise, no one would. A guide isn’t just supposed to be a cheerful companion but a mountain professional who helps you whether things are going well or when decisions need to be made to ensure your safety. An agency deserves to be paid for its work (organization, customer service, providing professionals), especially since agencies are the only ones who pay taxes—guides and porters don’t pay any, and it’s undeclared in 99% of cases, whether they’re independent or working for an agency. Everyone deserves their salary, and it’s important to be aware of that to decide whether you can afford to hire professionals.

In short, prices vary widely, but I can only advise working with professionals who put people first—experienced professionals who love their job. That way, you maximize your chances of having an amazing experience and fairly compensating the people involved. When you contact a guide and their first recommendation is Everest Base Camp, the Annapurna Circuit, or just the region they’re from without considering your needs: RED FLAG—BE CAREFUL.

If you have questions about prices, services, or general concerns, don’t hesitate. My job is to organize trips, but I’m a traveler first and foremost, and I know all too well what it’s like to be in the dark about a destination. My comments are based on my experience and what I see daily, but if anything doesn’t sit right with you or isn’t clear, I’d be happy to discuss it! :)

Yes, of course, no problem—feel free to ask!

I think you might be the same person who posted about Api on Facebook. I tried to reply but it didn’t work.

If you want to do the South Api Base Camp, no permit is needed. Only the North is a Restricted Area. If you don’t speak basic Nepali, you’ll really struggle on the ground because some lodges are irregularly open—owners have other jobs (farming) and getting to Marigad by transport is tricky. If you need a local porter, it’s tough since few speak English, so it’s better to have someone who isn’t from the area but speaks English.

If you need help organizing, feel free to reach out—it’s my job! I know the area really well and have lots of contacts there. It’s an amazing region with such warm locals; I can’t recommend it enough! ☺️

Hello Terry, Which month do you recommend for the Langtang, Gosainkund Helambu trek, considering the crowds? I’ve made several trips to Nepal over 40 years, the last one in 2012, but things change, and I’d like to avoid the biggest crowds. We’re trekking solo. Thanks so much for your feedback. IORA

To avoid repeating and to go a bit further, I’d say it really depends on what you’re looking for. The period between festivals is the busiest, but it’s not like Sagarmatha or the Annapurna Circuit—and even the Manaslu Circuit now. But if you want that feeling of being almost alone, I can only recommend winter, from mid-December to the end of February. I’d even push it to the end of February or a little after because snow is possible, and the views are amazing.

Yes, it’s cold, but the privilege of being almost alone—and especially being with the real locals—is worth it. Many guesthouses are run by seasonal workers during the high season, and it’s hard to know who’s a local or a year-round resident since a lot of people have a second home in Kathmandu during the winter. The experience, beyond being more solitary, is also much more authentic in my opinion. These thoughts also apply to the monsoon season, but the downside is that the mountain views are much less clear, and you’ll have to cross your fingers for a clear morning. A little asterisk for the monsoon period: during Janai Purnima, Gosainkunda isn’t exactly a haven of peace—there are about 4,000 Nepalis at the lake on average!

That said, if you’ve already traveled in Nepal, I can only recommend exploring less touristy areas. The west is wonderful, between Darchula, Rukum, and Khaptad, but the east has just as many treasures, like the Bhojpur region and the hills/mountains of Koshi Province. However, these places can be more challenging if you’re alone (without a guide or if you don’t have a basic level of Nepali). The upside? There’s almost no one there except the locals! :)

It's peak season in Nepal, and I'm swamped with work, so I really haven't had time to read up on all the stage details. Personally, it's been a while since I've been there (2023), but I have lots of clients who go, and the last ones who visited the cheese factory were there in May. Depending on the time of year, it's not automatically open, and you might need to ask locals if it's possible to visit and buy cheese.

I haven't checked with my local contacts, but I'd be surprised if it's been closed since the monsoon season. That said, in early September, it might not be open non-stop since it's not quite peak season yet.

I see a lot of feedback and opinions about September. I’d like to mention that August and September are truly extraordinary for trekking. Sure, it’s not the classic trails where views might be blocked, but more cultural treks off the beaten path—where when the views clear, it’s a gift because you weren’t even expecting it. The far west with regions like Darchula, Bajhang, and Simikot; the west with Dhorpatan/Rukum-Rolpa/Dolpo; and Annapurna with Nar Phu. These are fantastic times to go because everything is absolutely green—it’s just stunning to see. I know for many the goal is really to have clear views, but I’m dropping this little note to open the door to other discovery possibilities that, far from the classic Sagarmatha/Annapurna/Manaslu/Langtang routes, deserve to be explored despite the access difficulties or unpredictable weather :)

Generally, from mid-August in recent years, the rain is limited to about an hour in the afternoon. Of course, some days it rains more, but if you’re patient, there are amazing experiences to be had during this time of year when very few people dare to explore the hills and mountains. For those familiar with Nepal, I can only recommend it. For first-time visitors to Nepal, it might be a bit too rugged and challenging in these mentioned regions.

Also, I agree with Anne-Claire—the climate change is shifting the seasons, but November remains a safe bet for exceptional skies :)

For AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), I don’t quite agree—we don’t go above 3600 or 3800 at most at Kyangin Gompa, and the ascent is gradual... On the Everest route (toward base camp), you land at 2800 m in Lukla, and on the very first day, you pass 3600 m at Namche Bazaar! I had a bit of a headache there.

The Everest area is a special case, in my opinion, because there are a lot of evacuations, partly due to a lucrative business selling fast, cheap itineraries to clients without respecting acclimatization time. This allows agencies to call in helicopters for their clients and make money off insurance—or, in the saddest cases, off the clients themselves if they don’t have insurance. For those arriving by plane, people land in Lukla, but only a minority head straight to Namche on the first day because those who do without being acclimatized aren’t really following safety principles. The vast majority spend the first night in Phakding, Tok Tok, or Monjo—between 2600 and 2900 m—then move on to Namche at around 3450 m (depending on where you sleep in Namche), so the elevation gain is less drastic.

For Langtang, my point was more about the region in general, especially with Gosainkunda, which sees a lot of issues (whether you come from Dhunche or Helambu). Even in the valley, some people struggle because between Lama Hotel and Langtang Village, there’s a 1000 m elevation gain (2480 m vs 3450 m), and many people have a hard time managing that transition. Of course, plenty of trekkers have no issues at all. The same goes for Panch Pokhari (transition from Tupi Danda to Nosyampati) and Tamang Heritage (the night at Nagthali). The Langtang region is very rugged and steep, with fewer intermediate stops than other areas. That’s just my professional perspective based on feedback from clients and fellow guides. I totally get that your experience might be different, and some people will relate more to what you’re saying!)

Cheese production is still going on, yes! :)

My bad then—I was being impatient! :)

Yeah, some people call the region "accessible" because it’s often chosen as an alternative to the more touristy areas (Sagarmatha & Annapurna) and because it’s relatively easy to reach by road since it’s close to Kathmandu (less than a day’s travel). Even though the journey isn’t that short, especially with this year’s monsoon causing serious damage in the region and on the roads...

I agree with you—many people aren’t physically prepared for it, which is why it’s one of the areas with the most issues related to acute mountain sickness, proportionally to the number of visitors. The distances are short, you gain altitude quickly, and those who need more time to acclimatize can find themselves in trouble. In short, it’s a stunning area but definitely shouldn’t be underestimated! 🙂

You had an amazing experience. However, I think your agency really overcharged you because the Langtang isn’t the most accessible massif—it’s actually quite challenging. Even though the Langtang Valley is the most accessible part, especially at the end of the monsoon season, it can still rain a lot, particularly on the section with frequent landslides between Syabru Besi and Bamboo.

On another note, I think your post got cut off because you only shared Day 1, and based on how you write, I’m guessing you planned to post your experience day by day! 🙂

Hello, has anyone been to the Api Himal region recently? Can the trek be done in lodges or tea houses in 2025? Thanks, Aichatou

I assume you’re the same person who asked this question in a Facebook group recently, but if not, I can confirm there are homestays and lodges. Depending on when you plan to go, I’d recommend having a guide because the trails can be confusing, and it’s not a classic trekking area—no one speaks English in the region 😊

Namaste Taking Europeans along and promoting these practices is completely disrespectful and irresponsible. Locals no longer work their lands, villages are emptying, and very few people manage to live off these harvests. Tashidelek Gilles

Making such generalizations is risky and doesn’t reflect reality, which varies greatly from one region to another. While thousands of Nepalis leave every day to work abroad, considering it "abnormal" for some to spend two to four months harvesting yarsagumba in the mountains seems like a judgment disconnected from reality. This activity often fits into a seasonal logic: livestock in the highlands, crops (on hold or waiting for the monsoon), tourism (during the monsoon)... Many families divide their time and homes according to the seasons. A good number of Nepalis living in the highlands have multiple homes based on their activities: one at lower altitudes from Kartik to Phalgun and another in the highlands for the rest of the year. I invite you to visit the Nar Phu or Rukum regions, or even the Tsum Valley in January, to see the empty villages—it’s normal.

Saying that "locals no longer work their lands" is an oversimplification that doesn’t match what we observe on the ground. Many people supplement their income with yarsagumba, and if it weren’t economically worthwhile, no one would spend several weeks in the highlands. Nepalis are hardworking but not foolish. Who could believe that locals abandon their land for 8 to 10 months a year just to harvest yarsagumba?

I don’t know where this idea comes from, but before making such claims, it would be better to ask local communities rather than spreading misinformation. Residents of Darchula, Mugu, Dolpo, Rukum, or Manang could tell you about it directly.

Finally, our approach isn’t to "promote" the harvest but to share an experience of local life. We don’t come to replace locals in their activities or encourage Europeans to spend four months in Nepal harvesting yarsagumba. Instead, we aim to understand a facet of Nepali life, their daily routines, while respecting the people and their choices and supporting the local economy.

Terry