Discussions started by Attila

My first trip to Morocco dates back to the early 90s.

Four more followed...

I’d never gone further north than Casablanca, Volubilis, or Fez—it was time to fix that!

So I planned a route that would fill in the gaps while revisiting a few places.

This route is pretty classic—if you’re looking for something original, you might want to skip it!

The starting point of the trip: the city of Rabat.

The stops?

Azrou, Fez, Al Hoceïma, Akchour, Tetouan, Tangier, Asilah, and finally Rabat.

Mostly an urban trip, then.

Too much?

We’ll see at the end of the travel journal!

Hi there!

For my 60th birthday (yes, I’m jumping the gun a bit!), I’m starting to plan a self-drive trip to Tanzania (in June).

I also considered Zimbabwe but I’m worried it might be a bit chilly at night in June.

I’ve revisited an itinerary I’d thought about before, tweaking it since I’ll have more days to dedicate to this trip. Still no big northern classics for the same reasons as before (too expensive, too crowded, too many tour operators).

Here’s what I’ve got so far:

(Arrival/departure from Kilimanjaro Airport)

Night 1: Arusha

Night 2: Arusha

Night 3: Lake Manyara

Night 4: On the way to Iringa (any ideas???)

Night 5: Iringa

Nights 6–8: Ruaha NP

Nights 9–10: Mikumi NP

Night 11: Bagamoyo

Nights 12–15: Beach Nights 16–17: Lushoto

Nights 18–19: Mkomazi NP

Night 20: Toward Marangu – eastern Kilimanjaro

Night 21: Western Kilimanjaro

End of trip

All your ideas, tweaks, info, and suggestions on this route are welcome!

I could move one beach night somewhere else if needed.

Also, if you have a car rental company to recommend or thoughts on the bandas rented in the parks, I’m all ears!

Finally, what are the roads like in Ruaha in June? The rental company I’m looking at seems to allow this park with a small 4x4. (Off-limits: Serengeti and Natron)

Thanks! :)

This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.

But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.

And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!

The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.

A bit of Kazakhstan? Not in the end.

The south or not the south? Yes, in the end.

Pre-book or go with the flow? Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.

To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).

---/---

You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?

Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.

Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek! (Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)



You’ll find here a post with some practical information.

And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.

---/---

As a supplement, the route track. Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...

From Bishkek to Karakol:



From Karakol to Kochkor:



From Kochkor to Baetov:



From Baetov to Kara-Köl:



From Kara-Köl to Bishkek:

Recent information about this country is scarce, so I’m starting this post in addition to my travel journal to help fill the gap.

- Which airline from Europe?

Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.

The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.

- Bishkek Airport

The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.

Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)

There are taxis and a bus available.

- Entry Requirements

No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.

- Currency

The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...

You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.

The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.

Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.

Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.

- Paying

Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.

But it doesn’t always work.

So always carry cash with you!

If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.

- Cost of Living

It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...

On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!

Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).

In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).

The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.

- Getting Around

I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.

Personally, I chose to rent a car.

If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.

Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...

An international driver’s permit is required.

Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).

Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.

Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.

If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.

Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...

Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).

There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.

Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).

Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!

Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.

A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!

Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!

Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)

- Eating

I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.

I was both wrong and right.

Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...

Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.

Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.

Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.

If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.

On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!

And alcohol?

It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).

The deadly specialty?

White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.

- Accommodation

In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.

Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.

Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).

These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.

So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!

Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.

Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!

- Climate

I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.

I packed too many warm clothes...

If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.

A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.

It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.

Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.

In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)

- Communication

I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.

We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.

To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.

Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.

Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.

The police too...

- Religion

There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.

In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.

In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.

For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.

There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...



You can find the detailed account of the trip here.

Hi there,

I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...

So I’m wondering how it all works?

You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏

But after that?

I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.

If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊

Thanks! 🙂

Hi there,

I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).

I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!

So, if you’ve got any ideas...

Thanks! :)

Hi there,

I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)

The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...

So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.

I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.

I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.

The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!

In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?

Thanks! :)

Hi there, 🙂

This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.

After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.

My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.

That’s a lot of cities. Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...

So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.

If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)

Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉

Thanks

Hi there, 🙂

Summer 2027 is going to be Norwegian for us! We’re heading to the Lofoten Islands first, then Senja, near Tromsø, and finally the North Cape. We’ll likely start from northern Finland (flight tickets and car rentals are more affordable there).

I’d like to book accommodations early to have more options. Good value-for-money places go fast in these pricey Nordic destinations...

But where should we book?

We’re planning to stay around ten nights in the Lofoten Islands.

What’s the best approach?

One place in the central part and explore from there?

One place in the south and another in the center?

Or one in the south, one in the center, and one in the north (3-4-3 nights)?

Our main goal is hiking.

Thanks for your tips!😉

15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!

The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...

(The version without discussions is here)

Hi there! 🙂

I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...

I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.

I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.

Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.

Are these foods allowed through customs?

Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?

I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?

Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)

Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)

Thanks!

Hello,

New year, new questions...😛

Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?

I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...

Thanks 🙂

Hi there,

I’m heading to Rome soon and wanted to book my tickets for the Colosseum.

I found the official site, but I don’t understand when it’s possible to make a reservation.

Apparently, it’s 30 days in advance for the underground tour since everything is already booked up for the next 30 days...

But what about the Colosseum + Arena visit? The site shows tickets for the next 7 days, but nothing after that. Are tickets released just a week in advance for this combo, not 30 days?

Thanks for any clarification! !

The recipe for the cocktail: endless beaches, a dazzling palette of colors, some breathtaking hikes, and excellent cuisine...

For the tasting, follow along in the pages of this travel journal! 😉

Don’t forget your hiking shoes, a swimsuit, sunscreen, but also a sweater, your driver’s license, and your credit card...

Just over 11 hours of flight, and we’ll be setting foot on Mauritian soil!

Hi there,

I’m planning a trip from Gran Canaria to El Hierro to Tenerife at the end of winter.

My current dilemma is where to book accommodations on Gran Canaria.

We’re planning to stay 7 nights on the island, and our goal is to hike, drive along small roads, discover a few villages, and admire some beaches (just for the views, not for swimming!).

Since the island is quite rugged, the journeys can be long even if the distances are short. I’d like to avoid driving 2 hours every morning and evening to reach the area we want to explore...

I’m thinking of splitting the 7 nights into 4 somewhere and 3 elsewhere.

But where? It seems the center and the northwest might be the best options.

Any advice, given that I’m mainly looking for peace and quiet, a beautiful view, a secluded spot, or a quiet village?

Thanks! :)

Hi,

I received an email from the airline saying my return flight was canceled and rescheduled to another flight.

Nothing about the connection in France...

I checked my passenger file, everything is the same as when I first booked.

I asked for an explanation by email.

They replied that my original flight was canceled and that I should sort it out with Air France since I bought the ticket through their site.

I called Air France. Finally got through to someone. The agent checked my file and told me there were no changes and therefore couldn’t reschedule my flight.

I checked my file again: the flight is the same as on the day I bought it.

They suggested I change it by paying!!!

I forwarded Air Mauritius’s emails to Air France. Waiting to see what happens next...

Have you ever had this kind of problem? What’s going on with Air Mauritius? Have they become a third-rate airline that’s absolutely not recommendable?

Thanks for your thoughts and any attempts at explaining this...

(The Air Mauritius flight is no longer for sale on Google Flights. The replacement flight isn’t either... Yet it still appears on the Air Mauritius site as the replacement flight.)

For the contest, it's here !

Hi there, 🙂

The point of this contest isn’t to photograph Mathilde or even to frantically click the "report" button on every post in a thread.

It’s to post **road signs**!

Whether they’re official or not...

Funny or serious...

Of all shapes, all colors, in all languages...

The rules are the same as usual—I’ll let you check out the previous contests for reference. 😛

Just a quick reminder:

- Max of 3 photos per person.

- One photo per post (preferably embedded 😉) with a caption and the photo number.

Submissions close on **Monday, September 22, 2025, at 11:59 PM Paris time**.

Voting starts on **Tuesday, September 23, 2025, at 11:59 PM** (and not a second before… 😇), Paris time, and ends on **Monday, September 29, 2025, at the same time** (still Paris time).

Results will be posted on **September 30, 2025**, sometime during the day!

Ready, set, snap!



(To discuss, it’s here…)

Hi,

Many of us have noticed that bugs have been making it difficult to navigate the forum lately.

I’ll let Kate and Ticapi explain the issue:

I went to your profile to check out the Thailand travel journal, and when I clicked on it, it brought me back here again. All week, I’ve been dealing with bugs like this—it’s really discouraging from continuing on VF.🙁

I had the same thing happen, and multiple times. For me, it was Montagnard’s latest journal that kept coming up no matter which discussion I clicked on.

Hopefully, a solution will be found soon.🙂

Hi there, 🙂

I’m about to book 4 nights in the Italian capital and I’m wondering where the best place to stay would be.

- A neighborhood that’s not too noisy - A neighborhood well served by public transport (airport and the city’s main sights) - A neighborhood with restaurants and supermarkets - A neighborhood with relatively reasonable prices

Public transport is essential. We gave this trip as a gift to someone who won’t be able to walk long distances like we usually do.

I also don’t want to be too far from the historic center.

Termini and Monti seem to fit these criteria? Is Termini a bit sketchy? But sketchy like dangerous or sketchy like homeless people just looking for a place to sleep?

We’ll be traveling off-season.

Thanks for your ideas !