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Entry and exit questions for a trip to China and Vietnam via Hong Kong
by Mariemolly · 2025-02-05 · 1 reply
Hi there, I’m planning a three-month trip: my itinerary would be a flight from Paris to Hong Kong, then Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City, and later leaving from Lao Cai to enter China before flying back from Hong Kong.

If I exit the Hong Kong airport upon arrival to find a hotel (since my flight to Vietnam leaves the next morning), will I lose the benefit of the 90-day visa exemption? Especially since I plan to spend 3 days in Hong Kong before my return flight at the end of the trip?

Also, I’d like to know if the inbound flight to Vietnam will be enough to board and get a visa on arrival, or do I need to prove that I’ll exit the country after 45 days? Since I want to visit Sapa and cross into China by land via Lao Cai, do I also need to prove my departure from China, even though I already have a round-trip ticket from Paris to Hong Kong and back for three months?
Northern Vietnam by motorbike in January 2026: tips and riding partner?
by Lavada · 2025-02-03 · 17 replies
Hi there,

In January 2026, I’m planning a motorbike trip through northern Vietnam for 3–4 weeks.

Must-dos: Hanoi, RC4, Dien Bien Phu, and of course the must-see landscapes.

I’m looking for any great tips, ideas… and maybe even a riding partner.

Cheers
Trip to Vietnam (Hoi An)
by PetitFlocon3 · 2025-01-27 · 0 replies
I’m looking for a contemplative, very calm, and cultured person to savor the spirit of Hoi An and its nearby surroundings. Ideally, the stay would be between 3 weeks and 1 month. Ever heard of Christian Bobin? Philippe (Petit Flocon)
Our one-month itinerary for a trip to Vietnam
by ChrisEtLolo · 2025-01-11 · 0 replies
✈️ One-month Vietnam itinerary from North to Central 🇻🇳

We’re sharing this trip from July 2019—our first time traveling around like this. It’s pretty classic, but it’s a great way to start discovering this amazing country that is Vietnam. Hopefully, it’ll give some ideas to those who’d like to head to Southeast Asia!

Our little adventure is detailed in our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos there.
Northwest and Northeast Vietnam Circuit
by Moyha · 2025-01-11 · 3 replies
Hello, We’ll arrive in Hanoi on April 17, 2025, and plan to head to the Northwest (Sapa region) and Northeast starting on April 20. How many days do you recommend for this trip? We’re two couples and a 4-year-old child. Should we book through an agency in Hanoi and do the circuit by van, or can we manage with buses—like an overnight bus from Hanoi to Sapa, then 2–3 days in the Sapa region, followed by a bus from Sapa to Ha Giang for a 3-day loop? Thanks in advance for your tips, itinerary ideas, accommodation suggestions, guesthouses, restaurants, and any great deals!
Anyone planning a trip to Vietnam?
by Ckris · 2025-01-06 · 29 replies
Hello

Out of all my travels, I haven’t been to Vietnam yet. Does anyone have plans to visit the country?

Looking forward to hearing from you, Christine
Which island to visit in Vietnam?
by Cricrine · 2025-01-05 · 4 replies
We’re heading to Vietnam for 3 weeks from January 17th to February 6th. In addition to the Mekong Delta and the central region, we’d like to spend some time by the sea. We’re torn between visiting the islands of Hon Son/Nam Du/(+Phu Quoc?) or choosing Con Dao Island. We’re hesitant because we’ve read that the sea around Con Dao can be rough and not great for swimming at this time of year (and that boats might be canceled). Could you share your thoughts? Thanks
Travel companions for Vietnam March 2025
by Ffalbala · 2025-01-04 · 2 replies
Hello, I’m planning a trip to Vietnam next March and I’m looking for a travel companion. The itinerary isn’t set in stone yet, but I’d definitely like to visit the north and then decide the rest together. I’m thinking of a three-week trip with some hiking, sightseeing, and beach time. My "profile" will give you more info about me—I’d love to chat with potential travel buddies!
Planning an itinerary in the Mekong Delta
by An5 · 2025-01-01 · 23 replies
Hi, We’ve planned a week in the delta, but sometimes I wonder if that’s not too much… We’ll be there in early February, and the idea is to take a taxi straight from Saigon Airport to Ben Tre. I’m counting on 3 nights to recover and adjust after the long trip. Then I was thinking of Sadec, Can Tho, Chau Doc, Ha Tien, and back to Saigon for 3 nights before a flight to Hoi An. We’ve got 6 weeks total, so we have a bit of time. After reading different travel stories, the destinations in the delta seem a bit repetitive—I keep seeing the same excursions. On the other hand, I also think having time is a chance to get to know the local life a little better. My question really comes down to this: for those of you who travel at a relaxed pace, do you have any tips? I’ve heard the floating markets aren’t that interesting anymore. Also, motorbikes aren’t our thing. Thanks
Countries flown over on Paris - Hanoi flight
by Christianede · 2024-12-27 · 11 replies
Which countries are flown over between Paris and Hanoi? Ch2
Looking for a driver with vehicle for Northern Vietnam
by Lavada · 2024-12-23 · 18 replies
Hello, We’re a couple looking for a driver for 10 days to explore Northern Vietnam in April. Best regards,
4-5 days in northern Hanoi
by Arnaud3576 · 2024-12-23 · 2 replies
Hi, I'm looking for a reliable provider for a 4-5 day road trip loop starting from Hanoi to Sapa and/or Ha Giang. Does anyone have any contacts? Thanks in advance, Arnaud
Opodo e-ticket
by Squirel · 2024-12-17 · 10 replies
Hi, I just booked a trip to Vietnam on OPODO. The reservation is confirmed, but I can't figure out if they send an e-ticket and when? The site is pretty unclear, and it's hard to get information. I couldn't find any answers on the forums about e-ticket issuance. The airline used is Turkish Airlines, but it's the travel agency (so OPODO) that issues the tickets and sends them to the customer. If anyone has any info or has had a recent booking with OPODO, thanks in advance. Have a good evening
Help with a 21-day Vietnam itinerary with teens
by FloGreg · 2024-12-15 · 13 replies
Hi everyone, We're a family of five: two adults and our three kids (18, 17, and 13 years old). We’ve just bought our flight tickets for Vietnam from August 6th to 26th, 2025. We know it’s not the best month to explore Vietnam, but we don’t have a choice—our vacation is in August! We’ll pack ponchos ;-) I’ve read a lot of blogs online, but I’d love your advice, please: Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: We’ll arrive in Hanoi (2-3 days), and if the weather allows, we’d like to head to Sapa to discover the landscapes, rice terraces, and mountains... (2 days). We’re not planning to book anything (train, hotel, etc.) because we’ll decide based on the weather whether to include this stop or not. Do you think it’s doable to not book anything in Sapa for a family of five? After that, we’re planning to explore Lan Ha Bay and the surrounding areas, Ninh Binh... (4-5 days). I’d love your tips for exploring this area because I’ve read so much that I’m a little overwhelmed... Ideally, we’ll then head down to Hue and Hoi An. We’ll enjoy a few days at the beach (4-5 days). Then Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta (3-4 days). What do you think of this plan for 21 days? If you know any great spots, guides, etc., I’m all ears! Especially for Lan Ha Bay and the surrounding areas, as well as the Mekong Delta. And of course, any great tips you’d like to share. There’s info scattered around the forums, but I’m struggling to find recent updates. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and thanks to those who help us prepare for this trip! Happy travels to you all ;-) Florence
Trip to Vietnam with Salaun agency
by Horlaville · 2024-12-13 · 5 replies
Hi there, Need to hear your thoughts on the trip offered by Salaun, "Vietnamese Escape"—flights, accommodations, activities, weather, and the overall trip structure. Thanks everyone! EP
Visiting Xeo Quyt and Cu Chi (Vietnam)
by Frangil · 2024-11-26 · 3 replies
Hi, In February, we’d like to visit the Xeo Quyt forest site. On the LP (Lonely Planet), it’s listed near Cao Lanh, but when I look at the map, it seems much closer to Sa Dec. Since we’re planning to stop in Sa Dec during our trip, I’d love to know if there are buses to get to Xeo Quyt. What’s your take on the site itself?

Also, while we’re in HCMC, we’re thinking of doing a "day trip" to the Cu Chi tunnels. I’ve read reviews about Ben Dinh, but almost nothing about Ben Duoc (except that it’s less touristy!). Which one should we choose? Do agencies offer tours to Ben Duoc?

Thanks for your tips! fg
Halong Bay
by Larsay · 2024-11-26 · 4 replies
What we commonly call "Halong Bay" is actually made up of three bays. From south to north:

- The small Lan Ha Bay, south and east of Cat Ba Island, inaccessible to large cruise junks because the channels aren’t deep enough for big boats—so it’s more intimate and, above all, cleaner;

- Halong Bay itself, north of Cat Ba, also very beautiful but crowded with tourists since it can accommodate large boats (up to 35 cabins), making it very dirty due to many Asian tourists—except for the Japanese—who throw everything into the water: cigarette butts, bags, empty cans, etc.; - The large Bai Tu Long Bay, north of Halong Bay, characterized by larger islands with beautiful beaches and fewer tourists since it ideally takes 3 days to explore all three bays. PRIORITIZE LAN HA BAY FOR 2 DAYS AND BAI TU LONG BAY FOR THREE. Some travelers want to visit the bay in just one day. Strongly discouraged ! In fact, you need to allow 7 to 8 hours for the round trip between Hanoi and the bay; adding boarding time, you’ll only spend a few hours on a boat and barely scratch the surface of the bay. Plus, one of the most magical moments of the cruise is waking up in the morning surrounded by limestone karsts. Two days/1 night on a junk is the minimum to enjoy the enchanting landscapes. AVOID cheap junks! There’s no secret: cheap = limited comfort, laughable food, and service that’s barely acceptable. Never forget this is a unique site in the world, so it’s worth visiting under the best conditions. Don’t confuse Halong Bay with the "terrestrial Halong Bay" in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc). The first is 110 km north of Hanoi, the second 100 km south, right in the Red River Delta. Both are magnificent, and it’s now possible to take a direct bus from one to the other. To visit the bays, you have two options: - Travel to Cat Ba Island or Halong City on your own and book a junk on-site. We don’t recommend this, as there are many issues—especially overcharging for foreign tourists in ground transport and shortened cruises, not to mention you don’t speak Vietnamese. You’ll end up paying at least the same price as through a Hanoi agency, likely more, since you’re at high risk of being ripped off. - Book an organized tour in Hanoi with a good agency. Given the complexity of traveling from Hanoi to Halong and renting a junk on-site, this is by far the easiest option, with countless possibilities—from private junks (more expensive but with huge advantages) to luxury, superior, and standard group junks. Benefits: with a good agency, you’ll have a hassle-free cruise with no scams, and everything is included in the price: round-trip transfers from your hotel to the boat, guide, junk, all meals, site entries, kayaking, etc.

When it comes to choosing a junk, there are also two options: A private junk is by far the best for many reasons: - You’re the only passengers on board - Smaller than group junks, a private junk can navigate channels inaccessible to large boats and stop at small beaches also off-limits to big vessels - Private junks can anchor wherever the captain chooses, so in a quiet little bay, whereas all large junks are required to spend the night in the same big bay by local police order - Better service and food Of course, these advantages come at a cost—but after all, Halong is a once-in-a-lifetime trip! For luxury private junks, I recommend Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks. For superior, one of the best is Oriental Sun (2 cabins/2 bathrooms), owned by the excellent agency Oriental Bridge Travel. Also excellent are the two Dai Duong junks—the 02 with 2 cabins and the 03 with 3.

Group junks range from Deluxe to Superior. Choose a medium-sized junk (8-12 cabins). Among the Deluxe, Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks are flawless. For Budget, the superior Swan, Cozy Boutique, and Ocean 7 are great.

Warning: While group junks can be booked once in Hanoi (except during peak season), private junks must be reserved well in advance, especially in high season.

To make your choice and booking easier, the best is to contact Oriental Bridge Travel, which, unlike other agencies that offer every junk imaginable (from the best to the worst), has carefully selected 2 or 3 in each category. Check their website and, in the menu, click all the "Halong" links from "Luxury Private Junks" to "Superior Group Junks."

TRANSPORT TO HALONG BAY

Cruise prices include round-trip transfers between Hanoi and Cat Ba City or Hon Gai. If you want to go to Halong on your own, there are three departure ports for cruises: Cat Ba Island (especially for Lan Ha Bay), Halong City/Bai Chay port (Lan Ha, Halong, and Bai Tu Long), and Cai Rong, which serves only Bai Tu Long Bay. From Hanoi: To Cat Ba, take the Hanoi-Haiphong bus and the Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat (3-hour journey). This is the fastest option since the boat arrives directly in Cat Ba City. Buy a combined ticket for Hanoi-Haiphong + Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat. For Halong City, there are frequent direct buses. From other cities: Direct buses from Haiphong or Cat Ba City to Ninh Binh and Sapa. WHERE TO STAY IN CAT BA? If you spend a night in Cat Ba (not essential), there are more and more hotels. Here are the ones I liked among those I’ve visited: 2-star: Cat Ba Dream Impeccable, with a large terrace overlooking Cat Ba Bay, and unbeatable prices: $15-20 for a single/double/twin, $30 for a large triple. The owner is a great cook. 3-star: Hung Long Harbour Brand new and spotless, overlooking Cat Ba Bay. Ask for rooms with a balcony (the suites have very large terraces). Great value for the quality! Single/double: Standard 65 $, Deluxe 80 $, Suite 100 $, extra person: 30 $ There are also several bungalow hotels on the beach: on Monkey Island (3 km from Cat Ba City), the Cat Ba Monkey Island Resort; another on a different island 5 km south of Cat Ba City, the Cat Ba Ocean Beach Resort; and a third, the Cat Ba Beach Resort. In the mountains inside the island, you can stay at the Cat Ba Suoi Goi Resort and the Cat Ba Whisper Bungalows. RESTAURANTS In Cat Ba City, I’ve tried quite a few restaurants—more bad than good. Two excellent floating restaurants in Cat Beo, especially the one on the left. WHAT TO DO? Beyond cruises, there are some interesting sites to visit on the island: · Visit the Cannon Fort: No one goes there, and everyone’s wrong! It’s not far, just behind Cat Ba City on Nui Ngoc Road, the street leading to Cat Beo. You climb to 177 m altitude at the top of a hill with a superb panoramic view of Halong and Lan An Bays. In 1942, the French installed an artillery fort with three 137 mm cannons controlling the passages in the bay; two remain, along with the casemates. It later became an anti-aircraft post during the Vietnam War. Unfortunately, the last time I went, the road was blocked. Still worth a try—great views from the climb. Entry: 50,000 dong, and it’s worth it! · The national park: It covers three-quarters of the island. You can simply stroll or go trekking, especially the 15 km to Viet Hai village. No animals in sight. Just before the park entrance, visit the Viet Hospital, a series of caves remarkably set up as a hospital during the Vietnam War (there was even a natural pool and a cinema room). · The beaches (Cat Cô): The three beautiful beaches in coves at the southern end of Cat Ba City’s esplanade are taken—the first by a children’s water park and the other two by a huge hotel complex.
Agencies in Vietnam for excursions
by Stéphanie4 · 2024-11-24 · 9 replies
Hi! We’d like to work with local agencies to organize tours to Halong Bay, the Mekong Delta, etc. There are so many agencies in Vietnam—any you’d recommend?
Da Nang and Hoi An (Vietnam)
by Larsay · 2024-11-24 · 2 replies
DANANG A big city in the midst of an economic boom. The setting is stunning, with its large bay, the Son Tra Peninsula, and the Annamite Mountains on the horizon.

Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?

Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?

What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.

The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.

HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.

WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.

For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.

Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.

Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).

WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.

For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).

At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.

WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.

THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.

MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.

CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.

To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!

Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.

Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.

Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).

When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.

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