Results for "Pompéi+|+9+>+215"
7543 results found.
Cherche peinture camping car Autostar English translation pending
Je suis à la recherche de la référence de la peinture grise utilisée pour peindre le bas de caisse des camping car Autostar
J'envisage de l'acherter sous la forme d'une bombe aérosol.
Si quelqu'un peut me tuyauter...
Prix de l'essence et du diesel en France? English translation pending
Nous allons en France à la fin du mois de juin. Nous aurons une voiture diesel. J'aimerais savoir le prix du litre d'essence et celui du diesel. Par ailleurs, est-ce que toutes les voitures( achat-rachat) sont munies de dispositif "allume-cigarettes?" (c'est pour faire la recharge de oiles pour la caméra. Est-ce qu'un adaptateur mural ferait moeux l'affaire?? Merci..
Bolivie: bons plans à Salar et au parc d'Amboro English translation pending
Hola a todos,
Nous sommes a La Paz et partons dans quelques jours pour le Salar. N'y-a-t-il que Colque comme agence fiable ? On hesite a faire le circuit au depart de Tupiza ou a tracer jusqu'a San Pedro et partir de la-bas pour retourner sur Uyuni.
Apres, on ira vers Santa Cruz. Le parc Amboro a l'air tres tentant mais qui connait des bons plans pour y passer 1 jour ou 2 ? Il parait que la nature est hostile dans ce coin. Si vous avez des experiences ou tuyeaux pour ne pas se faire pomper trop de sang par les insectes qui y trainent, on est super preneurs !!
Merci d'avance et bon vent a tous les voyageurs !
Picoloto
Nous sommes a La Paz et partons dans quelques jours pour le Salar. N'y-a-t-il que Colque comme agence fiable ? On hesite a faire le circuit au depart de Tupiza ou a tracer jusqu'a San Pedro et partir de la-bas pour retourner sur Uyuni.
Apres, on ira vers Santa Cruz. Le parc Amboro a l'air tres tentant mais qui connait des bons plans pour y passer 1 jour ou 2 ? Il parait que la nature est hostile dans ce coin. Si vous avez des experiences ou tuyeaux pour ne pas se faire pomper trop de sang par les insectes qui y trainent, on est super preneurs !!
Merci d'avance et bon vent a tous les voyageurs !
Picoloto
Asthme et Népal? English translation pending
Bijour a tous et à toutes
Besoin d'aide...
Une amie souhaite se rendre au Népal en avril/ mai
Elle part a haute altitude entre 2000 et 4800 m pdt 12 jrs au milieu de la nature et que le manque d'oxygne risque de ce sentir il est fort possible que des crises se fassent sentir.
Elle est asthmatique par le stress lie a une grosse fatigue physique et pas ses allergies et la pollution
Nous souhaitons donc avoir un avis sur le sujet a savoir si elle doit se faire prescrire quelque chose comme de la cortisone histoire de lui "sauver la vie " en cas de problème
Elle est actuellement en chine et ne trouve pas de réponse.
Merci par avance de votre aide !!!
Enormes bises à tous et toutes
Besoin d'aide...
Une amie souhaite se rendre au Népal en avril/ mai
Elle part a haute altitude entre 2000 et 4800 m pdt 12 jrs au milieu de la nature et que le manque d'oxygne risque de ce sentir il est fort possible que des crises se fassent sentir.
Elle est asthmatique par le stress lie a une grosse fatigue physique et pas ses allergies et la pollution
Nous souhaitons donc avoir un avis sur le sujet a savoir si elle doit se faire prescrire quelque chose comme de la cortisone histoire de lui "sauver la vie " en cas de problème
Elle est actuellement en chine et ne trouve pas de réponse.
Merci par avance de votre aide !!!
Enormes bises à tous et toutes
Star Airlines English translation pending
Je precise que c est un cas isolé.
Je suis revennu il y a 3 jours, 5 heures de retard car en RD il y avait un pb de vanne sur le reacteur droit de l Airbus. Le mecano local etait perdu, il a fallu attendre un outil special preté par une compagnie allemande, le copi s est fait faxé les plans et a passé 3 heures dans ce maudit reacteur, a essayer de remettre le circuit en pression. Tout ca se passait sous les yeux des passagers en salle d embarquement. Ensuite embarquement express ( en 10 min); sauf que la evidemment un groupe de personnes refusait d embarquer sans explications ( claires). L hotesse au sol, une canadienne, tres desagreable, menacait les gens qui ne voulaient pas monter, et racontait une version puis une autre sur les causes de la pannes Tout le monde demandait au pilote de venir et de s expliquer, 20 min apres le pilote arrive, il ne parle qu espagnol, et est employé la compagnie ibero..quelque chose. Il sort une autre histoire de vanne sur une pompe qui permet au reacteur de s ouvrir... Ce qu il faut savoir c est qu il y avait une enorme flaque de liquide sous le reacteur.
Enfin d apres lui pas de pb pour passer 8 heures en l air et au dessus de l eau... Qu il etait lui aussi dans l avion, que la reparation a été faite par un mecano anglais experimenté(???!!!) ect...Bref tout le monde embarque...pas tres rassurer...
Tiens ma place est sur un hublot a droite du coté de ce maudit reacteur, je regarde pendant le vol et je vois un volet decalé par rapport a l aile durant tout le vol(compensait la trajectoire???) Et a un moment le pilote mettait les gaz...les diminuait au max...les remettait, tout ca pendant 5 minutes... ( remettre le circuit en pression???). Je voyage souvent et je n avais jamais vu ça.
Arriver a paris il nous a fait un aterrissage aux petits oignons et tout le monde etait content d arriver, on se gare et la direct une camionette de maintenance de Star arrive et se fout a coté du reacteur...
La semaine d avant, dans le sens aller l avion a atteri en espagne pour faire le plein donc 1 heures et quelques de retard.
Pour ce qui est des ecouteurs, 4 euros a l aller et gratos au retour, si ils sont achetés a l aller on les conserve pour le retour.
Sinon PNC super sympas, mais bouffe Beurk🙁
L année derniere avec Aeris on avait eclaté un pneu a Colombo, et ce meme vol avait deja eclaté un pneu 12 heures avant a mulhouse et un tobogan s etait déclanché a Punta cana la veille... C est ce meme vol qui etait passé au info quelques semaines plus tard pour 24 ou 36 heures de retard.
De toutes facons ces compagnies sont la pour faire tourner leurs avions et les rentabiliser au max.
Je suis revennu il y a 3 jours, 5 heures de retard car en RD il y avait un pb de vanne sur le reacteur droit de l Airbus. Le mecano local etait perdu, il a fallu attendre un outil special preté par une compagnie allemande, le copi s est fait faxé les plans et a passé 3 heures dans ce maudit reacteur, a essayer de remettre le circuit en pression. Tout ca se passait sous les yeux des passagers en salle d embarquement. Ensuite embarquement express ( en 10 min); sauf que la evidemment un groupe de personnes refusait d embarquer sans explications ( claires). L hotesse au sol, une canadienne, tres desagreable, menacait les gens qui ne voulaient pas monter, et racontait une version puis une autre sur les causes de la pannes Tout le monde demandait au pilote de venir et de s expliquer, 20 min apres le pilote arrive, il ne parle qu espagnol, et est employé la compagnie ibero..quelque chose. Il sort une autre histoire de vanne sur une pompe qui permet au reacteur de s ouvrir... Ce qu il faut savoir c est qu il y avait une enorme flaque de liquide sous le reacteur.
Enfin d apres lui pas de pb pour passer 8 heures en l air et au dessus de l eau... Qu il etait lui aussi dans l avion, que la reparation a été faite par un mecano anglais experimenté(???!!!) ect...Bref tout le monde embarque...pas tres rassurer...
Tiens ma place est sur un hublot a droite du coté de ce maudit reacteur, je regarde pendant le vol et je vois un volet decalé par rapport a l aile durant tout le vol(compensait la trajectoire???) Et a un moment le pilote mettait les gaz...les diminuait au max...les remettait, tout ca pendant 5 minutes... ( remettre le circuit en pression???). Je voyage souvent et je n avais jamais vu ça.
Arriver a paris il nous a fait un aterrissage aux petits oignons et tout le monde etait content d arriver, on se gare et la direct une camionette de maintenance de Star arrive et se fout a coté du reacteur...
La semaine d avant, dans le sens aller l avion a atteri en espagne pour faire le plein donc 1 heures et quelques de retard.
Pour ce qui est des ecouteurs, 4 euros a l aller et gratos au retour, si ils sont achetés a l aller on les conserve pour le retour.
Sinon PNC super sympas, mais bouffe Beurk🙁
L année derniere avec Aeris on avait eclaté un pneu a Colombo, et ce meme vol avait deja eclaté un pneu 12 heures avant a mulhouse et un tobogan s etait déclanché a Punta cana la veille... C est ce meme vol qui etait passé au info quelques semaines plus tard pour 24 ou 36 heures de retard.
De toutes facons ces compagnies sont la pour faire tourner leurs avions et les rentabiliser au max.
Kevin et les voyages...... English translation pending
Kevin a 11 ans, c'est un gosse de son époque, fan d'internet déjà, des heures devant la télé et ses jeux vidéos......c'est son univers devant lequel il rêve, car depuis bien longtemps les adultes ne savent plus faire rêver les gosses.....
Aujourdh'ui c'est Dimanche et comme d'habitude Tonton Marcel et sa femme vont venir déjeuner à la maison, ça le pompe dur mais il faut qu'il soit à table jusqu'au dessert à écouter vaguement les discussions des grands auxquelles il ne comprend strictement rien, seul petit changement, le cousin John est venu ce jour et c'est bien la première fois, Kevin ne se rappelait même plus qu'il avait ce cousin....
Kevin rigole un peu car il voit bien que les grands sont énervés par l'attitude de ce grand cousin, c'est vrai qu'il est bizarre, pas du tout du style de Tonton et Tata, des cheveux mi longs retenus par un bandana, un jean délavé, de grosses chaussures et l'air de planer à 10000, mais il sent bien que ce garçon est là par hasard et qu'il ne fait pas partie du même monde qu'eux.....
On mange.......les parents reviennent de vacances et racontent avec force grand discours leurs aventures mémorables, Kevin comme d'habitude n'écoute plus.....le voyage en avion et cette attente dans ce hall d'aéroport à la climatisation trop forte, l'accueil dans ce pays chaud avec des colliers de fleurs mais les coktails de bienvenus qui étaient trop chauds, les chambres promises avec un balcon mais devant ce terrain vague ou on apercevait des habitations locales ( avec tout ces terrosristes qui trainent.....!), la plage le matin qui n'était nettoyée que vers 10H, et ces algues qui te collaient aux jambes lors des bains de mer.....Papa lui était content des boissons aux bars qui apparemment étaient gratuites même si on arrivait pas à avoir des glaçons toute la journée, mais ces gens qui se précipitaient sur le buffet et ou on n'arrivait quasiment jamais à avoir une demi langouste......Maman racontait cette excursion en bateau avec de beaux gilets de sauvetage rouge fluos en harmonie avec son gros rubis disait elle, mais pourquoi tous ces gamins ragoutants se précipitaient à chaque arrêt pour leur vendre des coquillages au risque de les faire chavirer alors qu'à l'hôtel on en trouvait de trés jolis pour 40 à 50 euros.....
Enfin celà les avaient quand même bien changés, ce beau jardin tout en fleurs et ces bungalows en toit de paille, quel dépaysement......!
" Et toi Kevin, tu n'aimes pas voyager....? "
Hein quoi, qui me parle, le cousin John qui me demande si j'aime voyager, mais c'est quoi ça voyager......
Alors il lui a raconté.......le bonheur d'atterir dans un endroit hors du temps avec cette chaleur qui te tombe dessus, l'avion qui survole des forêts et des habitations en toit de palmes, les petites hôtels ou on se retrouve entre gens du voyage, ces bonzes le matin qui se proménent dans les rues pour quémander leur nourriture avec leur bol, ces villages de pêcheurs sur pilotis en pleine mer, ces milliers d'oiseaux multicolores, ces repas pris avec une famille le soir venu sur une plage, ces gros lézards de trois mètres de long qui peuvent engloutir des buffles gros comme nos vaches, cette fois ou il a raté son bus et qu'il a du dormir dans la station avec les mendiants et passer la nuit à chanter avec eux, ces plages immenses ou les tortues viennent pondre........
Kevin n'en revenait pas......c'était donc celà voyager, toutes ces émotions, ces rencontre et découvertes, tout celà existait vraiment et on pouvait aller à la rencontre de toutes ces choses......mais comment ? ou ? pourquoi ?.....il y avait donc des gens qui habitaient dans ces pays et pourquoi les parents n'en parlaient jamais....?....
Les parents avaient depuis longtemps décrochés, occupés à siroter leur cognac, et soupirant de cette invraisemblable insouciance qu'avait ce John à parcourir ainsi le monde, et Kevin buvait les paroles de son cousin.....
Cette nuit là, lorsque Kevin s'est couché, il n'a pas rêvé de jeux vidéos, il a rêvé de rivages inconnus, d'animaux géants, de singes avec de longs cheveux, de fleurs géantes, de bus multicolores.......
Demain il demanderait à sa mère de lui acheter un atlas.......
Kevin avait dorénavant des rêves plein la tête, il savait qu'il voulait courir le monde......pas comme papa et maman, mais comme ce drôle de cousin qui pour la première fois lui avait ouvert les yeux sur un monde qu'il ne soupçonnait même pas......
Peut être Kevin saura t il trouver l'harmonie nécéssaire à sa soif de découverte et aller à la rencontre de ces gens et de ces paysages qui font qu'un voyage devienne une source d'émotions.......
Aujourdh'ui c'est Dimanche et comme d'habitude Tonton Marcel et sa femme vont venir déjeuner à la maison, ça le pompe dur mais il faut qu'il soit à table jusqu'au dessert à écouter vaguement les discussions des grands auxquelles il ne comprend strictement rien, seul petit changement, le cousin John est venu ce jour et c'est bien la première fois, Kevin ne se rappelait même plus qu'il avait ce cousin....
Kevin rigole un peu car il voit bien que les grands sont énervés par l'attitude de ce grand cousin, c'est vrai qu'il est bizarre, pas du tout du style de Tonton et Tata, des cheveux mi longs retenus par un bandana, un jean délavé, de grosses chaussures et l'air de planer à 10000, mais il sent bien que ce garçon est là par hasard et qu'il ne fait pas partie du même monde qu'eux.....
On mange.......les parents reviennent de vacances et racontent avec force grand discours leurs aventures mémorables, Kevin comme d'habitude n'écoute plus.....le voyage en avion et cette attente dans ce hall d'aéroport à la climatisation trop forte, l'accueil dans ce pays chaud avec des colliers de fleurs mais les coktails de bienvenus qui étaient trop chauds, les chambres promises avec un balcon mais devant ce terrain vague ou on apercevait des habitations locales ( avec tout ces terrosristes qui trainent.....!), la plage le matin qui n'était nettoyée que vers 10H, et ces algues qui te collaient aux jambes lors des bains de mer.....Papa lui était content des boissons aux bars qui apparemment étaient gratuites même si on arrivait pas à avoir des glaçons toute la journée, mais ces gens qui se précipitaient sur le buffet et ou on n'arrivait quasiment jamais à avoir une demi langouste......Maman racontait cette excursion en bateau avec de beaux gilets de sauvetage rouge fluos en harmonie avec son gros rubis disait elle, mais pourquoi tous ces gamins ragoutants se précipitaient à chaque arrêt pour leur vendre des coquillages au risque de les faire chavirer alors qu'à l'hôtel on en trouvait de trés jolis pour 40 à 50 euros.....
Enfin celà les avaient quand même bien changés, ce beau jardin tout en fleurs et ces bungalows en toit de paille, quel dépaysement......!
" Et toi Kevin, tu n'aimes pas voyager....? "
Hein quoi, qui me parle, le cousin John qui me demande si j'aime voyager, mais c'est quoi ça voyager......
Alors il lui a raconté.......le bonheur d'atterir dans un endroit hors du temps avec cette chaleur qui te tombe dessus, l'avion qui survole des forêts et des habitations en toit de palmes, les petites hôtels ou on se retrouve entre gens du voyage, ces bonzes le matin qui se proménent dans les rues pour quémander leur nourriture avec leur bol, ces villages de pêcheurs sur pilotis en pleine mer, ces milliers d'oiseaux multicolores, ces repas pris avec une famille le soir venu sur une plage, ces gros lézards de trois mètres de long qui peuvent engloutir des buffles gros comme nos vaches, cette fois ou il a raté son bus et qu'il a du dormir dans la station avec les mendiants et passer la nuit à chanter avec eux, ces plages immenses ou les tortues viennent pondre........
Kevin n'en revenait pas......c'était donc celà voyager, toutes ces émotions, ces rencontre et découvertes, tout celà existait vraiment et on pouvait aller à la rencontre de toutes ces choses......mais comment ? ou ? pourquoi ?.....il y avait donc des gens qui habitaient dans ces pays et pourquoi les parents n'en parlaient jamais....?....
Les parents avaient depuis longtemps décrochés, occupés à siroter leur cognac, et soupirant de cette invraisemblable insouciance qu'avait ce John à parcourir ainsi le monde, et Kevin buvait les paroles de son cousin.....
Cette nuit là, lorsque Kevin s'est couché, il n'a pas rêvé de jeux vidéos, il a rêvé de rivages inconnus, d'animaux géants, de singes avec de longs cheveux, de fleurs géantes, de bus multicolores.......
Demain il demanderait à sa mère de lui acheter un atlas.......
Kevin avait dorénavant des rêves plein la tête, il savait qu'il voulait courir le monde......pas comme papa et maman, mais comme ce drôle de cousin qui pour la première fois lui avait ouvert les yeux sur un monde qu'il ne soupçonnait même pas......
Peut être Kevin saura t il trouver l'harmonie nécéssaire à sa soif de découverte et aller à la rencontre de ces gens et de ces paysages qui font qu'un voyage devienne une source d'émotions.......
Prix essence au Canada English translation pending
Petite question aux Québécois présents sur ce forum: quel est le prix actuel de l'essence au Canada ? Merci
Hôtel San Luis English translation pending
J'aimerais des infos concernant Ile de San-Andres. Nous partons du 28 dec au 12 jan 04 et allons loger a L'hotel San Luis.
C'est la première fois que nous irons sur l'ile des J'aimerais bien bénéficier de quelques "tips" !!!
C'est la première fois que nous irons sur l'ile des J'aimerais bien bénéficier de quelques "tips" !!!
Trek au Népal version "hard" English translation pending
Salut a tous
J'ai vraiment une grosse envie de rando au Népal (projet 2004) mais je cherche un plan à forte dominante sportive(du genre "j'en chie mais c'est bon et en plus c'est beau ".
Physiquement très entrainé (Course de montagne et Trail de + de 10h avec 2000 + ou 3000+) par contre pas d'expérience de la "très" haute altitude (+de 4000). Envie de + de 6000 mais est-ce raisonnable sans pratique de l'escalade?
Quels plans pouvez vous me suggérer ?
Merci de vos réponses
Meilleure saison pour visiter l'Inde? English translation pending
bonjour,
depuis quelques temps, une petite voix me dit que ça pourrait être sympa d'aller faire un tour en Inde cet automne (septembre-octobre pour 2-3 semaines), mais pour le moment, c'est juste une idée, et p'être bien une envie bientôt ! mais je me pose une question (pour le moment) : c'est le climat : est-ce le meilleur moment pour y aller ? le pire ?
et d'après ceux qui connaissent déjà que me conseiller vous : le nord, le sud ? des sites webs ?
merci d'avance, P.
depuis quelques temps, une petite voix me dit que ça pourrait être sympa d'aller faire un tour en Inde cet automne (septembre-octobre pour 2-3 semaines), mais pour le moment, c'est juste une idée, et p'être bien une envie bientôt ! mais je me pose une question (pour le moment) : c'est le climat : est-ce le meilleur moment pour y aller ? le pire ?
et d'après ceux qui connaissent déjà que me conseiller vous : le nord, le sud ? des sites webs ?
merci d'avance, P.
Suggestions for a motorcycle itinerary from Mahajanga to Morondava along the coast?
Hi there,
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
Paul
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
Paul
What do you really remember about Vietnam?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
What's the best time of year and what type of vehicle should we use to visit northern Chile?
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Need info on the road to White Pocket and Reflection Canyon
Hello, if the off-the-beaten-path enthusiasts are still around 😉, I’d love some info on tackling these trails. I’m not super familiar with the rules, risks, or what to expect—I’m looking for firsthand experience from folks who’ve done it on their own once or multiple times.
Road conditions between San Pedro de Atacama and Salta, Argentina
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
Can I drive at high altitudes and what about diesel quality in Latin America?
Hello,
I’m traveling through Argentina and Chile (as well as Paraguay and Uruguay) with a 2019 Toyota Hilux Euro 6. Could anyone tell me if the local diesel is suitable for its engine, or if I need to take any special precautions (like adding an additive, for example) for these countries? I’d also like to know if driving at high altitudes is possible, and up to what elevation—or if I should worry about the vehicle going into limp mode? If that happens, what should I do?
Thanks in advance
I’m traveling through Argentina and Chile (as well as Paraguay and Uruguay) with a 2019 Toyota Hilux Euro 6. Could anyone tell me if the local diesel is suitable for its engine, or if I need to take any special precautions (like adding an additive, for example) for these countries? I’d also like to know if driving at high altitudes is possible, and up to what elevation—or if I should worry about the vehicle going into limp mode? If that happens, what should I do?
Thanks in advance
Exchanging Euros in Cape Verde
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Back from a 3-week trip to South Africa and Mozambique
Hi everyone,
We’ve just returned from a 3-week trip to South Africa:
2 weeks in Kruger Park, Manyeleti, and White River
5 days in Vilankulo
1 day in Johannesburg
If you have any questions or are planning your trip, don’t hesitate! 🙂
Where can I find a touring bike for beginners?
Hi everyone,
I don’t bike much, but I live on the VéloRoute 6, and I dream of adventure. I’m 51 and my old hybrid bike from 20 years ago no longer suits me.
I’d like to get a new bike at a reasonable price, but I don’t know where to look besides Decathlon and Intersport. I’m not after a racing bike—I want something a bit comfortable in terms of riding position (not recumbent) and with a luggage rack. 🙂
All your tips are welcome, with a budget of... let’s say 800 € max.
Looking forward to reading your suggestions!
Richard
I don’t bike much, but I live on the VéloRoute 6, and I dream of adventure. I’m 51 and my old hybrid bike from 20 years ago no longer suits me.
I’d like to get a new bike at a reasonable price, but I don’t know where to look besides Decathlon and Intersport. I’m not after a racing bike—I want something a bit comfortable in terms of riding position (not recumbent) and with a luggage rack. 🙂
All your tips are welcome, with a budget of... let’s say 800 € max.
Looking forward to reading your suggestions!
Richard
Hosting certificate and financial guarantee
Hi everyone,
in a few months I need to bring my Thai partner to France.
I’m going to prepare the "attestation d’accueil" for 3 months.
On the form, they ask me to act as a financial guarantor for her stay—no problem for me. But on the visa application, France asks her to prove she has sufficient income to get the visa. Is it still necessary for her to prove that, given that I’m acting as her financial guarantor?
Thanks
West USA Road Trip August 2022
Hello everyone,
I’m starting a travel journal about the amazing round trip I took in August 2022 with a big circuit through the US West.
Here’s what I posted on another travel forum back when VoyageForum hadn’t yet regained its freedom. 😉
Hello!
We got back yesterday in the middle of the afternoon, and here’s a quick first take on the 2022 round trip.
Has America changed? You could say that, yeah. For better? For worse? Who knows. A massive circuit—nearly 8,000 kilometers, actually around 5,000–6,000 miles.
Round-trip flights went smoothly, except for Air France on the way back, which let a rather large dog in the cabin with an owner who let it roam around the plane. Cool, Air France... Outrageous!
The rough itinerary: Salt Lake City. Jackson Hole–Grand Teton. Yellowstone. Cody. Rock Springs. Moab–Arches–Canyonlands. Monument Valley. Grand Canyon. Bryce Canyon. Zion Park. Las Vegas. Death Valley. Mammoth Lakes. Tioga Road. Mariposa. Yosemite Valley. San Francisco.
Tourists on site—a sociological study:
Italians: Always nice but just as loud as ever! Hispanics: Same as the Italians, just a different language. Germans: *Ein, zwei, ach mein Gott!* Order and discipline! Americans: Still no manners whatsoever. Pathetic. I’m only talking about the tourists, not the locals who work there. Quebecers: Pure joy! English-speaking Canadians: Same as the Americans. Asians: For the Japanese, it’s perfect. But the others from the Middle Kingdom... Let’s not start a war over this. There’s already Ukraine going on. And yet... Israelis: Still no manners. The Kibbutz kids are the bane of this country. French: Some excellent, some very good, some good, and some... not much.
Note that tourists in the northern part of the trip were much better behaved than those in the south. "Hello," "Goodbye," offering a hand? Etc. Few Asians in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Lots of locals. The same goes for hotel staff in the northern part—more attentive. Really cool!
On the other hand, we were pretty surprised not to encounter any African-American locals in Montana, Wyoming, Utah, or even Arizona—whether tourists or employees. It’s quite striking, to be honest.
The Hotels:
Holiday Inn - 206 South West Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84101, United States. A modern but soulless hotel. Basically, a place to pass through. Minimal breakfast.
Miller Park Lodge - 155 North Jackson Street - Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Not a hotel but a luxury motel. 750 € for two nights!! No breakfast. Huge room where you could hold a tea dance!! Well-located. No staff. Only room of the month-long stay that was fully redone during those two days.
Best Western Weston Inn. 103 Gibbon Avenue, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 Well-located, not far from the park entrance. Minimal breakfast. Friendly staff. Room refreshed every two days.
Best Western Sunset Inn. 1601 8th St, Cody, 82414-4134 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff.
Baymont by Wyndham 2717 Dewar Drive, Rock Springs, WY 82901 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
Wingate by Wyndham Moab. 126 South Highway 191, Moab, 84532 End of the "family" hotels. Start of the tourist hotels. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
Hampton Inn Kayenta. US Highway 160, Kayenta, AZ 86033, United States A stopover hotel run by the Navajos. Friendly staff wearing masks. Lots of people. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
La Quinta by Wyndham Williams. 1100 Cataract Lake Rd, Williams, AZ 86046, United States Finally, Route 66 for 500 meters! The staff is there. Nothing more. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
BEST WESTERN PLUS Ruby's Inn. 26 South Main Street, Bryce Canyon City, UT 84764, United States A factory!!! Great Hispanic or Romanian staff! A liquor store in the hotel! Awesome! Very good breakfast, but go early because the crowd—and the jerks—are there! Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
BEST WESTERN Casino Royale - 3411 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Strip, Las Vegas Good hotel at a reasonable price. No breakfast, but Denny’s is next door. Quiet hotel despite the casino. Friendly staff. No memory of seeing any pets!
Shilo Inn Mammoth Lake. 2963 Main Street, Mammoth Lake Disastrous! Ineffective security system. Fire doors propped open with wooden wedges. Tiny breakfast room. No staff in the room. Tables not cleaned. Minimal breakfast. Gross pool. Rooms need work. No, the whole hotel needs to be redone. They say they’re renovating. They’d be better off tearing it down. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Very bad memory. Apparently, there’s supposed to be staff in this hotel.
Quality Inn Yosemite Valley Gateway. 4994 Bullion Street, Mariposa, CA 95338 Hotel or motel? Booking should clean up its listings! No room refresh! Minimal breakfast. The staff is there. Nothing more.
Comfort Inn by the Bay. 775 Van Ness Avenue, Marina District, San Francisco No room refresh in four days! Minimal breakfast. Friendly and helpful staff. Well-located. Depends on what for, but well-located.
And then there are those who steal apples from the breakfast to put in their bags in the morning, those who fill up their famous US water bottles with orange juice from the breakfast pump, those who don’t clear their tables—I could go on. And also, those who don’t say hello or respond to a greeting!
Met some super nice French people (in the northern parks)! They’ll recognize themselves!
And the magic phrase that opens doors with Americans: "Do you speak French? OK, good!" Laughter guaranteed!
Don’t try that with Asians who run souvenir shops in big cities—they have no sense of humor unless it’s about the color of the green bill.
The park rangers are always available! Great!
And 5,000 photos to sort and organize, plus a few hours of dashcam videos!
See you soon.
Until the next update...
I’m starting a travel journal about the amazing round trip I took in August 2022 with a big circuit through the US West.
Here’s what I posted on another travel forum back when VoyageForum hadn’t yet regained its freedom. 😉
Hello!
We got back yesterday in the middle of the afternoon, and here’s a quick first take on the 2022 round trip.
Has America changed? You could say that, yeah. For better? For worse? Who knows. A massive circuit—nearly 8,000 kilometers, actually around 5,000–6,000 miles.
Round-trip flights went smoothly, except for Air France on the way back, which let a rather large dog in the cabin with an owner who let it roam around the plane. Cool, Air France... Outrageous!
The rough itinerary: Salt Lake City. Jackson Hole–Grand Teton. Yellowstone. Cody. Rock Springs. Moab–Arches–Canyonlands. Monument Valley. Grand Canyon. Bryce Canyon. Zion Park. Las Vegas. Death Valley. Mammoth Lakes. Tioga Road. Mariposa. Yosemite Valley. San Francisco.
Tourists on site—a sociological study:
Italians: Always nice but just as loud as ever! Hispanics: Same as the Italians, just a different language. Germans: *Ein, zwei, ach mein Gott!* Order and discipline! Americans: Still no manners whatsoever. Pathetic. I’m only talking about the tourists, not the locals who work there. Quebecers: Pure joy! English-speaking Canadians: Same as the Americans. Asians: For the Japanese, it’s perfect. But the others from the Middle Kingdom... Let’s not start a war over this. There’s already Ukraine going on. And yet... Israelis: Still no manners. The Kibbutz kids are the bane of this country. French: Some excellent, some very good, some good, and some... not much.
Note that tourists in the northern part of the trip were much better behaved than those in the south. "Hello," "Goodbye," offering a hand? Etc. Few Asians in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Lots of locals. The same goes for hotel staff in the northern part—more attentive. Really cool!
On the other hand, we were pretty surprised not to encounter any African-American locals in Montana, Wyoming, Utah, or even Arizona—whether tourists or employees. It’s quite striking, to be honest.
The Hotels:
Holiday Inn - 206 South West Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84101, United States. A modern but soulless hotel. Basically, a place to pass through. Minimal breakfast.
Miller Park Lodge - 155 North Jackson Street - Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Not a hotel but a luxury motel. 750 € for two nights!! No breakfast. Huge room where you could hold a tea dance!! Well-located. No staff. Only room of the month-long stay that was fully redone during those two days.
Best Western Weston Inn. 103 Gibbon Avenue, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 Well-located, not far from the park entrance. Minimal breakfast. Friendly staff. Room refreshed every two days.
Best Western Sunset Inn. 1601 8th St, Cody, 82414-4134 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff.
Baymont by Wyndham 2717 Dewar Drive, Rock Springs, WY 82901 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
Wingate by Wyndham Moab. 126 South Highway 191, Moab, 84532 End of the "family" hotels. Start of the tourist hotels. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
Hampton Inn Kayenta. US Highway 160, Kayenta, AZ 86033, United States A stopover hotel run by the Navajos. Friendly staff wearing masks. Lots of people. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
La Quinta by Wyndham Williams. 1100 Cataract Lake Rd, Williams, AZ 86046, United States Finally, Route 66 for 500 meters! The staff is there. Nothing more. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
BEST WESTERN PLUS Ruby's Inn. 26 South Main Street, Bryce Canyon City, UT 84764, United States A factory!!! Great Hispanic or Romanian staff! A liquor store in the hotel! Awesome! Very good breakfast, but go early because the crowd—and the jerks—are there! Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
BEST WESTERN Casino Royale - 3411 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Strip, Las Vegas Good hotel at a reasonable price. No breakfast, but Denny’s is next door. Quiet hotel despite the casino. Friendly staff. No memory of seeing any pets!
Shilo Inn Mammoth Lake. 2963 Main Street, Mammoth Lake Disastrous! Ineffective security system. Fire doors propped open with wooden wedges. Tiny breakfast room. No staff in the room. Tables not cleaned. Minimal breakfast. Gross pool. Rooms need work. No, the whole hotel needs to be redone. They say they’re renovating. They’d be better off tearing it down. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Very bad memory. Apparently, there’s supposed to be staff in this hotel.
Quality Inn Yosemite Valley Gateway. 4994 Bullion Street, Mariposa, CA 95338 Hotel or motel? Booking should clean up its listings! No room refresh! Minimal breakfast. The staff is there. Nothing more.
Comfort Inn by the Bay. 775 Van Ness Avenue, Marina District, San Francisco No room refresh in four days! Minimal breakfast. Friendly and helpful staff. Well-located. Depends on what for, but well-located.
And then there are those who steal apples from the breakfast to put in their bags in the morning, those who fill up their famous US water bottles with orange juice from the breakfast pump, those who don’t clear their tables—I could go on. And also, those who don’t say hello or respond to a greeting!
Met some super nice French people (in the northern parks)! They’ll recognize themselves!
And the magic phrase that opens doors with Americans: "Do you speak French? OK, good!" Laughter guaranteed!
Don’t try that with Asians who run souvenir shops in big cities—they have no sense of humor unless it’s about the color of the green bill.
The park rangers are always available! Great!
And 5,000 photos to sort and organize, plus a few hours of dashcam videos!
See you soon.
Until the next update...
Comfort while camping has never been easier with the AirFlex 3.0 mattress
Whether you're a beginner or an experienced trekker, choosing an effective camping mattress can often be complicated. Between comfort, weight, and bulk, the ideal compromise is hard to find. After testing the USKOO AirFlex 3.0 mattress in real conditions, here’s why it clearly deserves a spot in your backpack—despite being slightly heavier than some ultra-light competitors.
Compact and easy to transport despite its weight
The AirFlex 3.0 mattress weighs 839 grams. It’s true—if you're chasing ultra-lightweight gear at all costs, this might seem heavy. However, the real advantage of this mattress lies elsewhere: its ability to be ultra-compact when packed. It fits easily into a standard backpack, freeing up precious space for your other gear. Personally, after several self-sufficient hikes, I love how easily I can stow my mattress without struggling at every stop.
Unmatched comfort for restful nights
While the AirFlex 3.0’s weight isn’t its strongest point, its comfort definitely is. Its generous 7 cm thickness lets you forget about uneven terrain, delivering exceptional sleep quality even after weeks of trekking. I’ve tested it on various surfaces—rocky, damp, or uneven—and every time, the mattress provided unparalleled sleep. Plus, its design includes an integrated pillow and modularity that lets you easily switch to couch mode or a lounge chair. Whether you're reading, stargazing, or just resting, its comfort remains intact.
Durability and reliability on all terrains
After enduring the challenges of high-altitude campsites or spots near water, I can confirm the AirFlex 3.0 lives up to its durability promises. Its 100% waterproof and abrasion-resistant coating lets it handle the toughest conditions without puncturing. That’s a crucial feature when you know how much a leaky mattress can ruin a self-sufficient camping trip.
Quick and easy inflation
Another major plus: the built-in pump. No more spending ages blowing it up or using an external manual pump. It only takes 30 seconds to fully inflate the mattress. This often-overlooked feature is a game-changer after a long day of hiking.
Verdict: Is it right for you?
The USKOO AirFlex 3.0 mattress is a smart investment for those who prioritize absolute comfort without sacrificing minimal bulk. Yes, it’s a bit heavier than some ultra-light models on the market, but this small trade-off is more than made up for by its many strengths: durability, versatility, quick inflation, and above all, unmatched comfort while camping. In short, if you're one of those demanding trekkers who no longer want to sacrifice sleep for the sake of absolute lightness, then the AirFlex 3.0 mattress is undoubtedly for you.
Compact and easy to transport despite its weight
The AirFlex 3.0 mattress weighs 839 grams. It’s true—if you're chasing ultra-lightweight gear at all costs, this might seem heavy. However, the real advantage of this mattress lies elsewhere: its ability to be ultra-compact when packed. It fits easily into a standard backpack, freeing up precious space for your other gear. Personally, after several self-sufficient hikes, I love how easily I can stow my mattress without struggling at every stop.
Unmatched comfort for restful nights
While the AirFlex 3.0’s weight isn’t its strongest point, its comfort definitely is. Its generous 7 cm thickness lets you forget about uneven terrain, delivering exceptional sleep quality even after weeks of trekking. I’ve tested it on various surfaces—rocky, damp, or uneven—and every time, the mattress provided unparalleled sleep. Plus, its design includes an integrated pillow and modularity that lets you easily switch to couch mode or a lounge chair. Whether you're reading, stargazing, or just resting, its comfort remains intact.
Durability and reliability on all terrains
After enduring the challenges of high-altitude campsites or spots near water, I can confirm the AirFlex 3.0 lives up to its durability promises. Its 100% waterproof and abrasion-resistant coating lets it handle the toughest conditions without puncturing. That’s a crucial feature when you know how much a leaky mattress can ruin a self-sufficient camping trip.
Quick and easy inflation
Another major plus: the built-in pump. No more spending ages blowing it up or using an external manual pump. It only takes 30 seconds to fully inflate the mattress. This often-overlooked feature is a game-changer after a long day of hiking.
Verdict: Is it right for you?
The USKOO AirFlex 3.0 mattress is a smart investment for those who prioritize absolute comfort without sacrificing minimal bulk. Yes, it’s a bit heavier than some ultra-light models on the market, but this small trade-off is more than made up for by its many strengths: durability, versatility, quick inflation, and above all, unmatched comfort while camping. In short, if you're one of those demanding trekkers who no longer want to sacrifice sleep for the sake of absolute lightness, then the AirFlex 3.0 mattress is undoubtedly for you.
Drinking water and cash in the United States
Hi there,
- Is tap water safe to drink everywhere in the U.S., or do you prefer bottled water?
- How do you handle money?
★ Is cash preferred and more commonly used than card payments?
★ For ATM withdrawals, what are the fees? I’ve read that bank ATMs have lower fees than those in some stores—is that true?
★ Is the cashback trick used in the U.S. (e.g., for a $100 purchase, you pay $150, and the cashier gives you $50 in cash)?
Thanks in advance to U.S. experts for your tips!
Two loops from Salt Lake City: how much cash should we bring?
Hi there,
We’re doing two loops:
from SLC to Grand Tetons/Yellowstone from 06/25 to 06/26 (June 1–8)
and another in Utah from 06/25 to 06/26 (June 8–16).
We’ve already been to these areas and are filling in gaps from previous trips—especially in Utah with Capitol Reef, Kanab (including White Pocket—we’ve already done North and South Coyote Buttes), Wahweap Hoodoos, The Narrows, and a few other little treats.
Renting an AWD SUV from Rugged Rentals and bringing a sat phone for the gravel roads.
I use a Revolut card for payments to avoid hefty foreign-exchange fees, but I’m wondering how much cash we should bring for 15 days.
Thanks for your input! Louis
We’ve already been to these areas and are filling in gaps from previous trips—especially in Utah with Capitol Reef, Kanab (including White Pocket—we’ve already done North and South Coyote Buttes), Wahweap Hoodoos, The Narrows, and a few other little treats.
Renting an AWD SUV from Rugged Rentals and bringing a sat phone for the gravel roads.
I use a Revolut card for payments to avoid hefty foreign-exchange fees, but I’m wondering how much cash we should bring for 15 days.
Thanks for your input! Louis
Cost of a tuk-tuk ride in Bangkok in 2025
Hi there!
I think the question’s in the title...
What price can I expect to pay in 2025 for a ride of about two kilometers in the tourist center?
Thanks😉
I think the question’s in the title...
What price can I expect to pay in 2025 for a ride of about two kilometers in the tourist center?
Thanks😉
Reliable operators around San Pedro de Atacama
Hi there,
Not wanting to go through a traditional travel agency—often based in France and only offering "items pulled from an internet catalog"—I’ve decided to plan this trip to Chile on my own this year, in March-April.
However, I’m overwhelmed by the number of options online.
I’ll be staying in San Pedro de Atacama for 4 nights. I’d love to explore San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings.
Since I won’t have a vehicle, I’ll likely need to rely on group transfers. What do you recommend as must-see places and activities? And most importantly, which trustworthy providers should I turn to?
Thanks in advance!
Jamet JC
Northern Chile, Andean impressions.
Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!
The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.
Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.
So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!
Not to Argentina, though...
Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!
In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.
Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.
Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?
Are the driver’s license and passport ready?
Bank cards and a few euros too?
Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!
--/--
To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!
1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco
2- Around San Pedro
3- From San Pedro to Cariquima
4- From Cariquima to Putre
5 - From Putre to Arica
Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.
Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.
So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!
Not to Argentina, though...
Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!
In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.
Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.
Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?
Are the driver’s license and passport ready?
Bank cards and a few euros too?
Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!
--/--
To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!
1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco
2- Around San Pedro3- From San Pedro to Cariquima
4- From Cariquima to Putre
5 - From Putre to Arica
Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
Eastern Crete in September 2024
Travel journal in Eastern Crete from September 8th to 29th, 2024
Our 21-day itinerary
Sunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.
Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!
Sunset over Mirabello Bay
Tuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.
Mirabello Bay seen from our terrace
Wednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.
Village of Kritsa
Thursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.
Spinalonga Island
The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.
Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.
Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.
Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.
Gorge of the Dead
The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.
Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.
Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!
Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.
Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.
Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.
View of the Ierapetra coast from Anatoli
Friday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.
Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!
Sunset from Anatoli
Sunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!
We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.
Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.
Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.
Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...
Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...
Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.
Agio Farango Chapel
A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.
Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.
Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.
Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.
Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €
Our 21-day itinerarySunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.
Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!
Sunset over Mirabello BayTuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.
Mirabello Bay seen from our terraceWednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.
Village of KritsaThursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.
Spinalonga Island
The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.
Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.
Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.
Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.
Gorge of the Dead
The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.
Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.
Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.
Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.
Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.
View of the Ierapetra coast from AnatoliFriday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.
Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!
Sunset from AnatoliSunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!
We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.
Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.
Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.
Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...
Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...
Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.
Agio Farango Chapel
A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.
Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.
Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.
Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.
Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €
Getting around Zambia and choosing wildlife parks
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to Zambia in 2 years. This will be our 4th trip to Southern Africa—the last one this year was Moremi, Boteti, KCGR, and KTP as a self-drive with campsites and no guide, just my wife and me. For this year’s trip, we prepared 2 years in advance—bookings are really complicated. We were lucky to get a spot at Bitterpan in KTP (there are only 4 chalets).
We’d like to know if it’s easy to get around Zambia, especially when it comes to restocking supplies. Should we rent a 4x4 in Zambia, Namibia, or South Africa? Botswana is very expensive. Which parks are the most interesting? We’re into wildlife photography.
Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jean-Marc
We’d like to know if it’s easy to get around Zambia, especially when it comes to restocking supplies. Should we rent a 4x4 in Zambia, Namibia, or South Africa? Botswana is very expensive. Which parks are the most interesting? We’re into wildlife photography.
Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jean-Marc
Bambée sur les contreforts des Cévennes English translation pending
claudio avait l'intention de finir cette année 2020 par une bambée de la Savoie à Sète en tangentant le bas des Cévennes , et puis voila comme chaque année en cette période, un épisode cévenole se présente
https://www.midilibre.fr/2020/09/19/lherault-en-crue-et-fortes-precipitations-dans-les-cevennes-9082524.php
il serait suicidaire de braver ces orages
et le tour de france a échappé de peu à la cata Ce matin à 8h00 au sommet du Mont-Aigoual Brouillard, pluie et orage La visibilité est estimée à 30 mètres Le vent de Sud souffle en pointes à 66 km/h La température est de 12° Cette nuit, les rafales ont atteint 121 km/h. La pluie a déja amené 34 mm d'eau faut il laisser passer l'orage ? ou renvoyer le projet à une autre année ?
http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2020-salagou/
il serait suicidaire de braver ces orages
et le tour de france a échappé de peu à la cata Ce matin à 8h00 au sommet du Mont-Aigoual Brouillard, pluie et orage La visibilité est estimée à 30 mètres Le vent de Sud souffle en pointes à 66 km/h La température est de 12° Cette nuit, les rafales ont atteint 121 km/h. La pluie a déja amené 34 mm d'eau faut il laisser passer l'orage ? ou renvoyer le projet à une autre année ?
http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2020-salagou/