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L'île Maurice... y'a pas que la plage! English translation pending
Voici mes "impressions"de l'île Maurice, si vous désirez voir des photos, allez à l'adresse suivante http://www.mysterra.org/reportage/ile-maurice.html (plus de 900 photos de Maurice vous attendent!).--
Maurice est un paradis! Ce leitmotiv revient sans cesse depuis que Mark Twain se permit d’écrire: “Dieu s’est inspiré de Maurice pour créer le Jardin d’Eden”. Je l’admets, ce n’est pas qu’un cliché! Bercé par le vent, mon hamac entame un langoureux va-et-vient, j’observe les nombreux oiseaux multicolores qui s’ébattent dans les filaos. J’entends la mer, le bruit indolent des vagues qui se brisent au loin sur la barrière de corail et s'écroulent, anéanties, dans le lagon pour achever leur course sur le sable fin d’une plage idyllique. Une immense quiétude m’envahit...
Convaincu par la beauté des plages mauriciennes et de ses lagons aux bienfaits relaxants, il est temps de découvrir l’envers de ce décor paradisiaque: les terres, les gens, la vie réelle, sans les artifices proposés par les hôtels luxueux. Pour cela, il me faut quitter les zones touristiques où le légendaire accueil mauricien empreint d’une extrême gentillesse est guidé par l’appât du gain, dénaturé, voire agressif... rien que de bien normal face aux richesses qui s’exposent sans vergogne!
Dès lors, j’éviterai les régions de Flic en Flac, du Morne Brabant, de Belle Mare et du Nord-Ouest (Trou-aux-Biches, Grand Baie, Péreybère) et rejoindrai les terres et les petits villages oubliés du tourisme aux doux noms si chantant: Mamzelle Jeanne, Bois Mangue, Bois des Amourettes, Petit Gamin, Grande Rosalie, Petite Julie, Poudre d'Or, Sans Souci, Pomponette, Bel Ombre, Beau Champ, Bon Air...
Petits coins si différents et dépaysants, merveilleux villages aux cachets étonnants, amalgame de cultures et de traditions, nature rebelle aux charmes envoûtants, montagnes magiques étrangement sculptées, falaises qui surplombent une mer déchaînée si inhabituelle dans cette île au lagon omniprésent, plage sauvage et déserte à laisser rêveur les âmes romantiques. L’île est déconcertante. Je roule à gauche, la signalisation est en anglais mais tout le monde me parle en français. Dans une rue, un marchand ambulant vend des beignets et des dholl puri (sorte de crêpes), une senteur de curry parfume l’air, des femmes en sari aux couleurs chatoyantes flânent, des bâtons d’encens brûlent dans un petit temple de Shiva, je m’imagine en Inde... Puis soudain, l’appel du muezzin me sort brusquement de mes songes, une mosquée, des femmes voilées, des petites échoppes encombrées, tout évoque l’Orient. Plus loin, une épicerie déborde de marchandises, me voici “chez le Chinois” où le commerce bat son plein! Au fond d’une allée, des palissades de tôles ondulées cachent aux regards de modestes cases d’où proviennent un séga tonitruant. Une rangée de bougainvillées et des flamboyants à la florescence majestueuse ajoutent une touche de gaieté dans ce quartier créole un peu triste. Quel dépaysement d’observer dans un même village autant de cultures et de traditions si différentes!
Toutes ces communautés vivent ensemble et acceptent leurs différences sans trop de heurts. A l’égard de l’étranger que je suis, les Mauriciens font preuve de la même tolérance. Ils sont d’un contact facile et engagent souvent le dialogue pour me parler de leur vie, des coutumes de Maurice, mais aussi pour me connaître. S’ensuit un bombardement de questions, d’où viens-tu? que fais-tu comme travail? es-tu marié? Il y a une curiosité naturelle chez le Mauricien, une envie de découvrir l’autre. Maintes fois j’ai eu l’occasion de m’entretenir avec eux et chaque fois leur disponibilité et leur gentillesse m’ont surpris. Que ce soit pour m’indiquer un chemin, me conseiller de visiter un lieu, m'inviter à un mariage, me faire découvrir leur culture, m’aider spontanément à pousser ma voiture qui ne voulait plus démarrer ou simplement pour échanger quelques mots. Pourquoi font-ils cela? Pour rien! Juste pour le plaisir de discuter un bref instant. C’est dans ces moment-là que je me suis rendu compte à quel point, nous, occidentaux pressés et soucieux de productivité, avons perdu le sens de la gratuité et du partage. Fiers de leur île, les gens me demandent souvent si j’aime l’île Maurice et sont ravis de constater que je m’intéresse à leur pays et à leurs traditions. Ici, je réapprends à m’ouvrir aux autres, j’ai l’impression fort agréable que je suis le bienvenu! A Maurice l’hospitalité n’est pas un vain mot.
Au gré de mes pérégrinations, l’évidence m’a sauté aux yeux: le rapide développement économique de l’île, si envié de ses proches voisins africains, n’a pas supprimé les inégalités. Pour de nombreux Mauriciens la vie est dure. Tous les moyens sont bons pour survivre, on cultive un petit lopin de terre, on élève quelques poules et des chèvres, on fait pousser quelques arbres fruitiers, on pêche... Compte tenu des petits salaires, il est pratiquement impossible d’habiter seul. C’est certainement en partie pour cela que les Mauriciens ont développé un sens profond de la famille, tous les membres s’aident fidèlement et apportent les deniers nécessaires au bon fonctionnement de la vie familiale. Soudé, le clan se réunit le dimanche pour faire la fête sur une plage publique. Oncles, tantes, cousins, cousines, amis... chacun est le bienvenu et tout le monde se regroupe dans la bonne humeur, savourant le moment présent sans se préoccuper du lendemain qui ne sera peut-être pas rose. En dépit des épreuves par lesquelles ils ont passé, je n’entends pas une plainte, seul l’enthousiasme prédomine et un goût profond pour la vie. Un agriculteur, chanteur de séga à ses heures perdues, m’a dit dans un créole mélodieux: “Ena cass, péna cass, pas faire nan-nyé! L’importance profite la vie, dansé, chanté, bien manzé, boire et amizé quand nou tou ensemble! (Riche ou pauvre, cela n’a pas d’importance, l’essentiel est de profiter de la vie, de danser, de chanter, de bien manger, de boire et de s’amuser quand on est tous ensemble). Une belle leçon de vie!
Mais, si il y a un endroit où l’on ne rigole pas c’est sur la route! Bien que le Mauricien soit d’une nature plutôt calme et courtoise, ces qualités s’effacent subitement lorsqu’il se retrouve sur le bitume. Tel un pilote de Formule 1, la route lui appartient: il klaxonne à qui mieux mieux, coupe les virages, ne respecte pas les priorités, pulvérise allègrement les limitations de vitesse, dépasse sans visibilité, se rabat à l’ultime moment et, bien entendu, fait une queue de poisson! Comme le disait très justement un chauffeur de taxi: à Maurice on ne roule pas à gauche... ni à droite... mais au milieu! Ces perpétuels dangers ne semblent pas particulièrement affecter les Mauriciens, je n’ai que rarement observé un conducteur insulter ou menacer d’un geste rageur le fautif. Le côté “zen”, typiquement mauricien, reprend le dessus et c’est tant mieux ainsi!
Pour calmer mes émotions rien de mieux que de se prélasser dans le magnifique jardin botanique de Pamplemousse, tranquillité garantie. Je redoute en général les attractions touristiques, mais cette fois, il convient d’admettre que j’ai été agréablement surpris. Je découvre derrière un splendide portail en fer forgé un véritable “musée du végétal”, d’une richesse incomparable. A travers les allées de palmiers qui m’emmènent jusqu’au bassin des lotus, puis des nénuphars géants, je me laisse envahir par un agréable sentiment de sérénité. Au détour des chemins, je découvre des arbres séculaires jusqu’à présent totalement inconnus. Les sens en éveil, j’aperçois de jolies libellules, écoute les ébats aquatiques d’un héron cendré, hume une effluve de cannelle, touche l’écorce rugueuse d'un acajou et goûte à la saveur sucrée et si rafraîchissante d’une mangue-pomme. Flâner à travers cette oasis de verdure serait un bonheur parfait si les nombreux visiteurs respectaient ces lieux et n’y abandonnaient pas les vestiges de leur pique-nique aux quatre coins du jardin...
Il est temps de quitter cet éden tropical et de rejoindre ma belle plage délaissée depuis quelques jours. C’est dans mon hamac face à la mer, tel un vrai touriste, que je pourrai repenser aux magnifiques trésors dont regorge Maurice... non je ne pense pas à son littoral idyllique envahi d’hôtels luxueux mais bien à ses terres qui abritent une population modeste mais si riche en spontanéité et en gentillesse!
Maurice est un paradis! Ce leitmotiv revient sans cesse depuis que Mark Twain se permit d’écrire: “Dieu s’est inspiré de Maurice pour créer le Jardin d’Eden”. Je l’admets, ce n’est pas qu’un cliché! Bercé par le vent, mon hamac entame un langoureux va-et-vient, j’observe les nombreux oiseaux multicolores qui s’ébattent dans les filaos. J’entends la mer, le bruit indolent des vagues qui se brisent au loin sur la barrière de corail et s'écroulent, anéanties, dans le lagon pour achever leur course sur le sable fin d’une plage idyllique. Une immense quiétude m’envahit...
Convaincu par la beauté des plages mauriciennes et de ses lagons aux bienfaits relaxants, il est temps de découvrir l’envers de ce décor paradisiaque: les terres, les gens, la vie réelle, sans les artifices proposés par les hôtels luxueux. Pour cela, il me faut quitter les zones touristiques où le légendaire accueil mauricien empreint d’une extrême gentillesse est guidé par l’appât du gain, dénaturé, voire agressif... rien que de bien normal face aux richesses qui s’exposent sans vergogne!
Dès lors, j’éviterai les régions de Flic en Flac, du Morne Brabant, de Belle Mare et du Nord-Ouest (Trou-aux-Biches, Grand Baie, Péreybère) et rejoindrai les terres et les petits villages oubliés du tourisme aux doux noms si chantant: Mamzelle Jeanne, Bois Mangue, Bois des Amourettes, Petit Gamin, Grande Rosalie, Petite Julie, Poudre d'Or, Sans Souci, Pomponette, Bel Ombre, Beau Champ, Bon Air...
Petits coins si différents et dépaysants, merveilleux villages aux cachets étonnants, amalgame de cultures et de traditions, nature rebelle aux charmes envoûtants, montagnes magiques étrangement sculptées, falaises qui surplombent une mer déchaînée si inhabituelle dans cette île au lagon omniprésent, plage sauvage et déserte à laisser rêveur les âmes romantiques. L’île est déconcertante. Je roule à gauche, la signalisation est en anglais mais tout le monde me parle en français. Dans une rue, un marchand ambulant vend des beignets et des dholl puri (sorte de crêpes), une senteur de curry parfume l’air, des femmes en sari aux couleurs chatoyantes flânent, des bâtons d’encens brûlent dans un petit temple de Shiva, je m’imagine en Inde... Puis soudain, l’appel du muezzin me sort brusquement de mes songes, une mosquée, des femmes voilées, des petites échoppes encombrées, tout évoque l’Orient. Plus loin, une épicerie déborde de marchandises, me voici “chez le Chinois” où le commerce bat son plein! Au fond d’une allée, des palissades de tôles ondulées cachent aux regards de modestes cases d’où proviennent un séga tonitruant. Une rangée de bougainvillées et des flamboyants à la florescence majestueuse ajoutent une touche de gaieté dans ce quartier créole un peu triste. Quel dépaysement d’observer dans un même village autant de cultures et de traditions si différentes!
Toutes ces communautés vivent ensemble et acceptent leurs différences sans trop de heurts. A l’égard de l’étranger que je suis, les Mauriciens font preuve de la même tolérance. Ils sont d’un contact facile et engagent souvent le dialogue pour me parler de leur vie, des coutumes de Maurice, mais aussi pour me connaître. S’ensuit un bombardement de questions, d’où viens-tu? que fais-tu comme travail? es-tu marié? Il y a une curiosité naturelle chez le Mauricien, une envie de découvrir l’autre. Maintes fois j’ai eu l’occasion de m’entretenir avec eux et chaque fois leur disponibilité et leur gentillesse m’ont surpris. Que ce soit pour m’indiquer un chemin, me conseiller de visiter un lieu, m'inviter à un mariage, me faire découvrir leur culture, m’aider spontanément à pousser ma voiture qui ne voulait plus démarrer ou simplement pour échanger quelques mots. Pourquoi font-ils cela? Pour rien! Juste pour le plaisir de discuter un bref instant. C’est dans ces moment-là que je me suis rendu compte à quel point, nous, occidentaux pressés et soucieux de productivité, avons perdu le sens de la gratuité et du partage. Fiers de leur île, les gens me demandent souvent si j’aime l’île Maurice et sont ravis de constater que je m’intéresse à leur pays et à leurs traditions. Ici, je réapprends à m’ouvrir aux autres, j’ai l’impression fort agréable que je suis le bienvenu! A Maurice l’hospitalité n’est pas un vain mot.
Au gré de mes pérégrinations, l’évidence m’a sauté aux yeux: le rapide développement économique de l’île, si envié de ses proches voisins africains, n’a pas supprimé les inégalités. Pour de nombreux Mauriciens la vie est dure. Tous les moyens sont bons pour survivre, on cultive un petit lopin de terre, on élève quelques poules et des chèvres, on fait pousser quelques arbres fruitiers, on pêche... Compte tenu des petits salaires, il est pratiquement impossible d’habiter seul. C’est certainement en partie pour cela que les Mauriciens ont développé un sens profond de la famille, tous les membres s’aident fidèlement et apportent les deniers nécessaires au bon fonctionnement de la vie familiale. Soudé, le clan se réunit le dimanche pour faire la fête sur une plage publique. Oncles, tantes, cousins, cousines, amis... chacun est le bienvenu et tout le monde se regroupe dans la bonne humeur, savourant le moment présent sans se préoccuper du lendemain qui ne sera peut-être pas rose. En dépit des épreuves par lesquelles ils ont passé, je n’entends pas une plainte, seul l’enthousiasme prédomine et un goût profond pour la vie. Un agriculteur, chanteur de séga à ses heures perdues, m’a dit dans un créole mélodieux: “Ena cass, péna cass, pas faire nan-nyé! L’importance profite la vie, dansé, chanté, bien manzé, boire et amizé quand nou tou ensemble! (Riche ou pauvre, cela n’a pas d’importance, l’essentiel est de profiter de la vie, de danser, de chanter, de bien manger, de boire et de s’amuser quand on est tous ensemble). Une belle leçon de vie!
Mais, si il y a un endroit où l’on ne rigole pas c’est sur la route! Bien que le Mauricien soit d’une nature plutôt calme et courtoise, ces qualités s’effacent subitement lorsqu’il se retrouve sur le bitume. Tel un pilote de Formule 1, la route lui appartient: il klaxonne à qui mieux mieux, coupe les virages, ne respecte pas les priorités, pulvérise allègrement les limitations de vitesse, dépasse sans visibilité, se rabat à l’ultime moment et, bien entendu, fait une queue de poisson! Comme le disait très justement un chauffeur de taxi: à Maurice on ne roule pas à gauche... ni à droite... mais au milieu! Ces perpétuels dangers ne semblent pas particulièrement affecter les Mauriciens, je n’ai que rarement observé un conducteur insulter ou menacer d’un geste rageur le fautif. Le côté “zen”, typiquement mauricien, reprend le dessus et c’est tant mieux ainsi!
Pour calmer mes émotions rien de mieux que de se prélasser dans le magnifique jardin botanique de Pamplemousse, tranquillité garantie. Je redoute en général les attractions touristiques, mais cette fois, il convient d’admettre que j’ai été agréablement surpris. Je découvre derrière un splendide portail en fer forgé un véritable “musée du végétal”, d’une richesse incomparable. A travers les allées de palmiers qui m’emmènent jusqu’au bassin des lotus, puis des nénuphars géants, je me laisse envahir par un agréable sentiment de sérénité. Au détour des chemins, je découvre des arbres séculaires jusqu’à présent totalement inconnus. Les sens en éveil, j’aperçois de jolies libellules, écoute les ébats aquatiques d’un héron cendré, hume une effluve de cannelle, touche l’écorce rugueuse d'un acajou et goûte à la saveur sucrée et si rafraîchissante d’une mangue-pomme. Flâner à travers cette oasis de verdure serait un bonheur parfait si les nombreux visiteurs respectaient ces lieux et n’y abandonnaient pas les vestiges de leur pique-nique aux quatre coins du jardin...
Il est temps de quitter cet éden tropical et de rejoindre ma belle plage délaissée depuis quelques jours. C’est dans mon hamac face à la mer, tel un vrai touriste, que je pourrai repenser aux magnifiques trésors dont regorge Maurice... non je ne pense pas à son littoral idyllique envahi d’hôtels luxueux mais bien à ses terres qui abritent une population modeste mais si riche en spontanéité et en gentillesse!
Peur de voyager seule English translation pending
je prépare un voyage en australie, je pars seule, jusque ici aucun problème!
parcontre je voudrais aller à bali et en thailande et oui j'ai un peu la chienne. je voyage petit budget et veux sortir des sentiers battus. j'aimerais recevoir des trucs, conseils, anecdote si tu es déja partie seule dans ces pays. merci.
parcontre je voudrais aller à bali et en thailande et oui j'ai un peu la chienne. je voyage petit budget et veux sortir des sentiers battus. j'aimerais recevoir des trucs, conseils, anecdote si tu es déja partie seule dans ces pays. merci.
Turkey 2026: Riviera, Antalya, and Cappadocia
Hi everyone!
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with: Zero preparation. Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
A little sneak peek?
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with: Zero preparation. Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
A little sneak peek?Which island for a first trip to Greece?
Hi there,
Our first trip to Greece as a couple. We're planning to spend 7 days in Greece from August 30th to September 5th. We'll reserve 2 days for Athens at the end of the trip. For the remaining 5 days, we want to visit an island—any recommendations? Thanks for your tips and details, we really appreciate it.
Storm in the Canary Islands
15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!
The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...
(The version without discussions is here)
The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...
(The version without discussions is here)
What are your suggestions for visiting Naples and the Amalfi Coast?
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip for October to visit Naples (6 nights) and the Amalfi Coast (5 nights). We’ve already got the historic center and the Lapis Museum in Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Procida, Sorrento, and Ravello on our list. Any suggestions, addresses, or tips?
Thanks for your help.
Ideas for a one-week Andalusia itinerary
Hi everyone,
I’m sharing my draft itinerary with you because I just booked our flight tickets, and I feel like it’s quite late in the season. So, I’d like to be sure about my stops before reserving the hotels. I’ll be traveling alone with my two adult children. We want to prioritize outdoor walks, avoid too many indoor visits (both for budget and preference), and not spend too much time on the road.
D1: Arrival at 9 AM in Malaga, day in Malaga and overnight stay D2: Head straight to Nerja (1-hour drive) and spend the night there D3: Head straight to Granada (1.5-hour drive), spend the day and night there D4: Granada. Visit the Alhambra (Nasrid Palaces tour at 5 PM) and spend the night D5: Head to Ronda (2.5-hour drive) and spend the night D6: White Villages and overnight in Ronda D7: Head straight to the Costa del Sol (e.g., Estepona), spend the day and night there D8: Return to Malaga to catch our flight
There you go! This itinerary takes into account that we’d like to do a circuit starting from Seville in a few years. That said, it’d be a shame to miss something doable from Malaga.
Questions: Since the Alhambra visit is only at 5 PM, and we’d already have the day to explore Granada, would arriving the day before be a mistake? Or should we skip this day and dedicate it elsewhere (Costa del Sol? Head toward Tabernas?)? The old town appeals to me, but maybe the Sacromonte neighborhood isn’t essential... Same question for Ronda: should we dedicate a full day to it, or combine Ronda and the White Villages in one day? Note that we love wandering around villages outside, so that might answer my question! :)
Final question: Is it better to rent the car at Malaga Airport or in the city? If we rent at the airport, we’d need a hotel with parking, which doesn’t seem easy. Or stay outside the city and park for free near the center if possible? I’ve read comments about taking a taxi to Malaga and then picking up the rental car at the airport the next morning. The taxi would really need to be affordable...
Thanks so much for your feedback and suggestions for visits during this little circuit. Have a great day, everyone! Christine
D1: Arrival at 9 AM in Malaga, day in Malaga and overnight stay D2: Head straight to Nerja (1-hour drive) and spend the night there D3: Head straight to Granada (1.5-hour drive), spend the day and night there D4: Granada. Visit the Alhambra (Nasrid Palaces tour at 5 PM) and spend the night D5: Head to Ronda (2.5-hour drive) and spend the night D6: White Villages and overnight in Ronda D7: Head straight to the Costa del Sol (e.g., Estepona), spend the day and night there D8: Return to Malaga to catch our flight
There you go! This itinerary takes into account that we’d like to do a circuit starting from Seville in a few years. That said, it’d be a shame to miss something doable from Malaga.
Questions: Since the Alhambra visit is only at 5 PM, and we’d already have the day to explore Granada, would arriving the day before be a mistake? Or should we skip this day and dedicate it elsewhere (Costa del Sol? Head toward Tabernas?)? The old town appeals to me, but maybe the Sacromonte neighborhood isn’t essential... Same question for Ronda: should we dedicate a full day to it, or combine Ronda and the White Villages in one day? Note that we love wandering around villages outside, so that might answer my question! :)
Final question: Is it better to rent the car at Malaga Airport or in the city? If we rent at the airport, we’d need a hotel with parking, which doesn’t seem easy. Or stay outside the city and park for free near the center if possible? I’ve read comments about taking a taxi to Malaga and then picking up the rental car at the airport the next morning. The taxi would really need to be affordable...
Thanks so much for your feedback and suggestions for visits during this little circuit. Have a great day, everyone! Christine
March 2026 Photo Contest Theme: Metal, Metallic
The 139th edition of this contest is now open, and this month’s theme is:
« Metal, Metallic».
From ore to rockets, wire to the Eiffel Tower—or in a pinch, even a self-portrait at the bottom of a spoon—the theme is broad enough that you should be able to come up with at least three ideas pretty easily! Sure, things might get tricky when it’s time to vote, but that could just be a sign of a successful contest, right?! But we’re not there yet.
Contest rules: You can post up to three photos, each in a separate message, clearly indicating their number (1, 2, or 3) along with the location where the photo was taken. Any explanations about your photos are welcome.
You’ll vote for three photos, clearly stating the name of the participant you’ve chosen, followed by the photo number. The first photo in your vote will receive three points, the second two points, and the third one point.
The winner will be the person whose photo earns the most points. In case of a tie, the winner will be the one with the most first-place votes—or, if still tied, the most second-place votes. Finally, if it’s a perfect tie, the winner will be the one who reached their score first. The winner will then have the pleasure of choosing the theme for the April 2026 contest and organizing it. Ties for any position other than first won’t be broken. Lastly, you don’t need to participate in the contest to vote. However, participants (and I hope there’ll be lots of you!) are strongly encouraged to vote!
Please only post contest photos in this thread, and starting Thursday, March 26 (00:01 Paris time), only votes.
Key dates: You can submit your photos starting today, Tuesday, March 3, 2026, until Wednesday, March 25, 2026 (23:59 Paris time). Voting will begin the minute after and end on Monday, March 30 (23:59 Paris time). Results will be announced on Tuesday, March 31, 2026 ... if all goes well!
A discussion thread for this contest is open HERE: The photorama can be found HERE
From ore to rockets, wire to the Eiffel Tower—or in a pinch, even a self-portrait at the bottom of a spoon—the theme is broad enough that you should be able to come up with at least three ideas pretty easily! Sure, things might get tricky when it’s time to vote, but that could just be a sign of a successful contest, right?! But we’re not there yet.
Contest rules: You can post up to three photos, each in a separate message, clearly indicating their number (1, 2, or 3) along with the location where the photo was taken. Any explanations about your photos are welcome.
You’ll vote for three photos, clearly stating the name of the participant you’ve chosen, followed by the photo number. The first photo in your vote will receive three points, the second two points, and the third one point.
The winner will be the person whose photo earns the most points. In case of a tie, the winner will be the one with the most first-place votes—or, if still tied, the most second-place votes. Finally, if it’s a perfect tie, the winner will be the one who reached their score first. The winner will then have the pleasure of choosing the theme for the April 2026 contest and organizing it. Ties for any position other than first won’t be broken. Lastly, you don’t need to participate in the contest to vote. However, participants (and I hope there’ll be lots of you!) are strongly encouraged to vote!
Please only post contest photos in this thread, and starting Thursday, March 26 (00:01 Paris time), only votes.
Key dates: You can submit your photos starting today, Tuesday, March 3, 2026, until Wednesday, March 25, 2026 (23:59 Paris time). Voting will begin the minute after and end on Monday, March 30 (23:59 Paris time). Results will be announced on Tuesday, March 31, 2026 ... if all goes well!
A discussion thread for this contest is open HERE: The photorama can be found HERE
Recommendations for planning a trip to Japan: any agencies to recommend?
Hello everyone,
I’m reaching out to you because I’m planning our next big trip (Japan is really tempting us for the autumn!) and I have to admit, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed.
My husband and I have always loved traveling, and at 75, we have no intention of stopping... But I find that everything’s getting so complicated. I try to be "modern" by booking online, but as soon as there’s a problem, we hit a wall.
A friend nearly missed her departure last year because of a visa issue that wasn’t explained properly on a website... and no one to call for help, just automated messages.
It makes me a little nervous to be alone in front of a screen so far away, especially since at our age, we like knowing there’s real support if our health takes a turn while we’re there.
Anyway, I’m tired of seeing my file passed from one person to another without ever having the same contact... Do you know of any small, trustworthy agencies or people who still work the "old-fashioned" way and really look after their clients? I love my independence, but I need a real face behind my project.
Thanks in advance for your advice, and I look forward to reading your replies, Catherine
I’m reaching out to you because I’m planning our next big trip (Japan is really tempting us for the autumn!) and I have to admit, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed.
My husband and I have always loved traveling, and at 75, we have no intention of stopping... But I find that everything’s getting so complicated. I try to be "modern" by booking online, but as soon as there’s a problem, we hit a wall.
A friend nearly missed her departure last year because of a visa issue that wasn’t explained properly on a website... and no one to call for help, just automated messages.
It makes me a little nervous to be alone in front of a screen so far away, especially since at our age, we like knowing there’s real support if our health takes a turn while we’re there.
Anyway, I’m tired of seeing my file passed from one person to another without ever having the same contact... Do you know of any small, trustworthy agencies or people who still work the "old-fashioned" way and really look after their clients? I love my independence, but I need a real face behind my project.
Thanks in advance for your advice, and I look forward to reading your replies, Catherine
Veneto: Dolomites and Opera
I'm starting a new travel journal in Italy.
It's about a month-long trip (from September 3, 2025, to October 4, 2025), or rather a part of it. This section matches the title: an opera festival in Verona (one evening) and the Dolomites in the Veneto region.
I'm posting the part of the trip I think will interest French-speaking readers the most (since this is where I saw the most French travelers).
Here’s a quick summary:
- Trip in September 2025
- Solo travel with camping (caravan)
- Small geographic area: besides Verona, the surroundings of the Marmolada massif and Cortina d'Ampezzo.
- Main but not exclusive activity: hiking.
Since I have limited internet access where I am now, I’ll be writing slowly. Here we go!
Day 1: Thursday, September 4, 2025
I arrived in Veneto under the sun and with warm weather. I drove to Verona and tried to find a spot at the campsite (Verona Village) located south of the city. Unfortunately, it was full. Booking on the website was mandatory, but when I tried to reserve a few days ago, the site never moved from the "reservation" step to the "payment" step (I don’t know why—it’s always like that in these cases). I found another solution over the phone; the drive from southern Verona to the northeast was a bit long, but I finally settled at the "Oro Verde" campsite. It’s an "agricampeggio" (farm camping or rural campsite) on the outskirts of the city, and its name (green gold) suggests they produce olives there. Since it wasn’t late, I biked to the Adige River, following the recommended route into the city.
Since I have limited internet access where I am now, I’ll be writing slowly. Here we go!
Day 1: Thursday, September 4, 2025
I arrived in Veneto under the sun and with warm weather. I drove to Verona and tried to find a spot at the campsite (Verona Village) located south of the city. Unfortunately, it was full. Booking on the website was mandatory, but when I tried to reserve a few days ago, the site never moved from the "reservation" step to the "payment" step (I don’t know why—it’s always like that in these cases). I found another solution over the phone; the drive from southern Verona to the northeast was a bit long, but I finally settled at the "Oro Verde" campsite. It’s an "agricampeggio" (farm camping or rural campsite) on the outskirts of the city, and its name (green gold) suggests they produce olives there. Since it wasn’t late, I biked to the Adige River, following the recommended route into the city.
In the land... of Senegambia
Hey fellow travelers!
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up: "If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka. Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
Hugs 😘
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up: "If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka. Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
Hugs 😘
Berlin impressions (live)
Hi there,
I arrived in Berlin last night. In another discussion, I shared how much of a "nightmare" the flights from Nice were.
I’ll be posting some impressions here—what I liked and what I didn’t like as much.
This is my first time in Berlin. I’m staying for two weeks. For now, I’m alone, but I’ll be joined by someone in a few days.
Just to clarify, I won’t be posting any photos because my camera gave up the ghost the day before I left. It refused to read memory cards, and I don’t have a smartphone—just a tablet that I leave at the hotel.
Speaking of photos, a few years ago, at the Ducasse d’Ath in Belgium, I met a retired teacher who wasn’t taking any pictures of the festival. I asked her, "You’re not taking any photos?" She told me that during a trip to Nicaragua, she’d photographed howler monkeys and only noticed when looking at the pictures later that the males had huge testicles—something she hadn’t realized in person. She said, "Since then, I don’t bother with photos anymore!" I’ve thought about that often and wonder if I should do the same and stop taking pictures. Still, I’ll probably get a smartphone since it’s hard to go without one these days.
I arrived in Berlin last night. In another discussion, I shared how much of a "nightmare" the flights from Nice were.
I’ll be posting some impressions here—what I liked and what I didn’t like as much.
This is my first time in Berlin. I’m staying for two weeks. For now, I’m alone, but I’ll be joined by someone in a few days.
Just to clarify, I won’t be posting any photos because my camera gave up the ghost the day before I left. It refused to read memory cards, and I don’t have a smartphone—just a tablet that I leave at the hotel.
Speaking of photos, a few years ago, at the Ducasse d’Ath in Belgium, I met a retired teacher who wasn’t taking any pictures of the festival. I asked her, "You’re not taking any photos?" She told me that during a trip to Nicaragua, she’d photographed howler monkeys and only noticed when looking at the pictures later that the males had huge testicles—something she hadn’t realized in person. She said, "Since then, I don’t bother with photos anymore!" I’ve thought about that often and wonder if I should do the same and stop taking pictures. Still, I’ll probably get a smartphone since it’s hard to go without one these days.
My first trip to Iceland, over 50 years ago.
My first trip to Iceland, in 1974.
Yes, you might be surprised: my first trip to Iceland dates back to July 1974. It’s been a little over 50 years since I first set foot on Icelandic soil. I was 23 years old. At the time, I was a geography student. I had just earned my bachelor’s degree and was finishing my master’s (what we’d now call a "master’s 2") in physical geography, with two specialties: glaciology and volcanology. In both fields, professors showed us slides of Iceland—glaciers and volcanoes—and in tutorials, we worked on maps and documents related to the physical geography of Iceland. So there you have it: ice and fire, in Icelandic « ís og eldur », I learned that year that it was Iceland’s national motto, and that’s what drew me there for my first big trip.
Iceland in 1974 was very different from today. It wasn’t a common destination. There were practically no tourists or tourist infrastructure. Some sites now famous and overcrowded were only accessible after hours of hiking on rough, unmarked trails. GPS didn’t exist, but I had managed to get local 1:100,000 maps that were pretty well done. I took my time to circle the entire island, camping in the wild. Most of my meager budget went toward the flight ticket and renting a Volkswagen "Beetle."
There were no paved roads in the country except in central Reykjavík and the main street of Akureyri. What’s now called Route 1 was everywhere dirt and gravel, pretty bumpy in places. According to my maps, this road didn’t allow for a full loop around Iceland: a section of about a hundred kilometers was missing on the south coast. But when I arrived in that area, I learned at a gas station that the last missing section had just been completed, finally allowing a full loop without backtracking. It was the section crossing the vast Skeiðarársandur, southwest of Vatnajökull. The new road was just a bulldozer track through this black ash desert. We crossed the multiple channels of the sandur on long single-lane wooden bridges. On these long pilings, the road was made of roughly nailed thick planks that made an awful racket when the car drove over them.
A nasty surprise: the cost of living. The difference with France seemed huge—everything was two to three times more expensive than back home. Prices were way beyond my tiny budget, and I wondered how I’d manage to get by.
The Icelanders back then were very different from today. From the start, I felt like a real outsider, ostracized, even outright rejected. Several times, when I asked for permission to pitch my small tent near a farm, the door would slam shut as soon as I asked (in English). Without a word… *Bam!*
So I struggled to feed myself, lacking money. I mostly bought loaves of sliced bread and corn flakes (unknown in France at the time), which I ate with cold, sugary milk. It was the cheapest and most filling thing I could find.
In Reykjavík, my only luxury was daring to enter a snack bar. There, I’d treat myself to a coffee or tea, having quickly learned that after paying for a cup once, you could go back to the counter and have it refilled as much as you wanted. I dreaded being asked if I wanted something to eat because I couldn’t afford it. Luckily, no one asked. So, alone in my corner, I’d pull out my loaf of sliced bread from my backpack and make sandwiches with the contents of the two plastic bottles on every table—one red, one yellow: ketchup and sweet mustard. I avoided the sideways glances from other customers. I’d eat my sandwiches and leave, both full and warmed up.
One time, near Selfoss, I saw a truck stop by the road and pick up two large aluminum cans left at the end of a farm track. A little further down the road, two more similar cans. I realized these cans were there to be collected by… well, I didn’t know who. No one in sight for miles. So, I’ll admit it: I stopped and opened one of those large cans, which contained a dairy product—a kind of very dense, compact white cheese (I later learned it was skyr). I scooped a nice layer from the top, smoothed the surface with my spoon, and carefully closed the can again. Yes, I know it wasn’t right, but that was over fifty years ago, and I can admit it now since the statute of limitations has surely passed, right? Another time, I boiled a piece of dried fish, hard as wood, for a long time on my camping stove—fish I’d taken from huge outdoor drying racks by the side of the road. On the road heading north from Reykjavík, the Akranes underwater tunnel didn’t exist yet. To get to Borgarnes and Snæfellsnes, you had to go around Hvalfjörður. Following the shore of this long fjord, I stumbled upon a whaling station in full operation. Intrigued by the plumes of steam and the sounds of machinery from the road, I stopped, and surprisingly, no one stopped me from entering the vast platform where workers were butchering a large whale. I’ll never forget the acrid smell of those huge piles of meat and bones, fat and guts, the screams of saws and winches, the steam from the boilers… A monstrous, hallucinatory sight that would shape a major interest for the rest of my life: whales.
At the end of my journey, I spent three days in the Westman Islands. The famous eruption of the Eldfell volcano had happened just months earlier, in 1973, and was barely over. Visiting Heimaey was one of the goals of my trip to Iceland, given my volcanology studies. Part of the fishing port was filled in by lava flows, and the entrance channel was reduced to just a few meters wide. Most of the village was covered by a layer of black, hot ash eight to ten meters thick. I walked on the roofs of houses—every now and then, a chimney or skylight would stick out. In the rain, this hot ash released intense steam; you couldn’t see twenty meters ahead. It felt like being in a giant outdoor sauna. The entire population had been evacuated during the eruption, but some residents were starting to return. Bulldozers and excavators were gradually clearing this gigantic mass of ash, street by street, layer by layer, avoiding demolishing the buried houses. A constant stream of trucks dumped these millions of tons of ash into the sea from a cliff. To finish clearing the houses, it was done with shovels and wheelbarrows, and this task was left to the homeowners. One day, I had the chance to lend a hand (or rather, a shovel) to a couple finishing clearing their house. They offered to let me pitch my tent near their place, on a thick layer of warm ash (I’d never experienced such comfort through my sleeping mat), and I’ll never forget that they gave me a big bowl of delicious soup they’d just made. The best meal I had during that trip. The next day, climbing the volcano, which was still smoking and spewing furiously, I nearly suffocated from sulfur dioxide and almost melted the soles of my shoes. So it was during this initiatory trip, 50 years ago, that my addiction to Iceland was born. The following year in Paris, by sheer chance—and perhaps helped by the magic of my amazing Kodachrome slides—I met a young woman who would become my wife. Very quickly, she became as hooked as I was on "the island of the world’s creation" (as I called it back then), and later, it was often her who’d say, "So… how about going back to Iceland this year?" We went back many times, in every season, summer and winter, and in every region of the country. And every time, when the plane starts its descent toward Keflavík Airport, we look at each other like kids invited to a birthday party, discovering the cake buffet… "Here we are… we’re back!"
Our travel conditions changed a lot afterward. With a better budget but still traveling independently, renting well-equipped 4x4s that let us go almost anywhere, at our own pace, including the highlands of the country’s interior. But always taking our time, dedicating each trip to fully exploring one region rather than rushing through kilometers. And leaving time for beautiful hikes or simply doing nothing—sitting at a viewpoint and just watching, observing the wild nature, in contemplative mode… Always staying with locals in the countryside, preferably on real farms with animals, thanks to an association of farmers offering accommodations. We speak fluent English and have learned a few common Icelandic phrases and expressions over time. With a bit of experience, we developed our little techniques for starting interesting conversations with Icelanders… who, thankfully, are no longer as distant as they were in 1974! We even made friends there.
We particularly loved the rugged, wild Iceland—not necessarily the desolate highlands of the interior, but rather the isolated regions where a few very old families still cling to their land and roots. With a soft spot for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and especially the Westfjords, the "Vestfirðir," as the Icelanders call them. But we also love the Northeast, and even the far Northeast, so remote and where almost no one goes. Over time, we’ve done a lot of reading. We’ve learned a great deal about Iceland—its painful history, its tormented geography, its economy, its incredible medieval literature (the Sagas), and some quirks of its culture. And we greatly appreciate its contemporary authors, whose books fill several shelves in our library.
In 2008, on a return trip to Iceland, we went to the Westman Islands, to Heimaey. I hadn’t been back since my first trip in 1974, right after the Eldfell eruption. It was a pilgrimage for me, so many years later! An emotional moment seeing the huge frozen lava flow again. On the trails now set up to explore this vast chaos, people have put up signs indicating the names of the streets buried under the lava and the nature of the crushed buildings fifteen meters below. Plaques mark the locations of public buildings—here was the school, down there was the hospital… The part of the town that was under ash has been cleared, but not entirely—two streets were left partially buried, probably to show tourists. The volcano is still hot at the top. We climbed it, but this time I didn’t melt my soles.
We often talk about Iceland. We still call it "the island of the world’s creation" and tell our traveler friends how much this country fascinated and enchanted us. Those who’ve never been find it a bit odd, but everyone who’s been there understands.
You may have noticed I’m talking about it in the past tense… Indeed, I’ll admit that for several years now, we haven’t been back to Iceland, and I don’t think we’ll return. What we see on social media and in the news puts us off a bit. Mass tourism has arrived, and many developments have been made—not always for the best. Now, with two and a half million visitors a year, Iceland welcomes nearly six times its population. Tourism has become a key source of income for Icelanders. Good for them, maybe, but we don’t like it at all. We’re a bit wild, perhaps. And besides… the world is vast… We loved Iceland passionately, but we’ve always been inveterate travelers in general. So over the past fifty years, we’ve certainly explored all of Iceland’s regions, but also in the North Atlantic—the beautiful Norway, the stunning Lofoten Islands, the Shetland archipelago, the rugged and grand Faroe Islands, and then further north in the Arctic—the icy Greenland, Svalbard at the edge of the world, and even the Sjuøyane, the last islands before the North Pole, with small groups of enthusiasts and scientists on expedition ships. And many other regions of the world, but always with a taste for slightly offbeat places, both in terms of landscapes and nature and ways of life. Central Asia, the Azores, Peru, Bolivia, the Andes, Chile, Argentina, the vast Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego… and other little secret gems we won’t reveal. Not even on Voyage Forum.
But everywhere—yes, I mean everywhere—wherever you are, wherever you go, there’s always a moment when you think of Iceland…
Chris 51 - November 2025.
Yes, you might be surprised: my first trip to Iceland dates back to July 1974. It’s been a little over 50 years since I first set foot on Icelandic soil. I was 23 years old. At the time, I was a geography student. I had just earned my bachelor’s degree and was finishing my master’s (what we’d now call a "master’s 2") in physical geography, with two specialties: glaciology and volcanology. In both fields, professors showed us slides of Iceland—glaciers and volcanoes—and in tutorials, we worked on maps and documents related to the physical geography of Iceland. So there you have it: ice and fire, in Icelandic « ís og eldur », I learned that year that it was Iceland’s national motto, and that’s what drew me there for my first big trip.
Iceland in 1974 was very different from today. It wasn’t a common destination. There were practically no tourists or tourist infrastructure. Some sites now famous and overcrowded were only accessible after hours of hiking on rough, unmarked trails. GPS didn’t exist, but I had managed to get local 1:100,000 maps that were pretty well done. I took my time to circle the entire island, camping in the wild. Most of my meager budget went toward the flight ticket and renting a Volkswagen "Beetle."
There were no paved roads in the country except in central Reykjavík and the main street of Akureyri. What’s now called Route 1 was everywhere dirt and gravel, pretty bumpy in places. According to my maps, this road didn’t allow for a full loop around Iceland: a section of about a hundred kilometers was missing on the south coast. But when I arrived in that area, I learned at a gas station that the last missing section had just been completed, finally allowing a full loop without backtracking. It was the section crossing the vast Skeiðarársandur, southwest of Vatnajökull. The new road was just a bulldozer track through this black ash desert. We crossed the multiple channels of the sandur on long single-lane wooden bridges. On these long pilings, the road was made of roughly nailed thick planks that made an awful racket when the car drove over them.
A nasty surprise: the cost of living. The difference with France seemed huge—everything was two to three times more expensive than back home. Prices were way beyond my tiny budget, and I wondered how I’d manage to get by.
The Icelanders back then were very different from today. From the start, I felt like a real outsider, ostracized, even outright rejected. Several times, when I asked for permission to pitch my small tent near a farm, the door would slam shut as soon as I asked (in English). Without a word… *Bam!*
So I struggled to feed myself, lacking money. I mostly bought loaves of sliced bread and corn flakes (unknown in France at the time), which I ate with cold, sugary milk. It was the cheapest and most filling thing I could find.
In Reykjavík, my only luxury was daring to enter a snack bar. There, I’d treat myself to a coffee or tea, having quickly learned that after paying for a cup once, you could go back to the counter and have it refilled as much as you wanted. I dreaded being asked if I wanted something to eat because I couldn’t afford it. Luckily, no one asked. So, alone in my corner, I’d pull out my loaf of sliced bread from my backpack and make sandwiches with the contents of the two plastic bottles on every table—one red, one yellow: ketchup and sweet mustard. I avoided the sideways glances from other customers. I’d eat my sandwiches and leave, both full and warmed up.
One time, near Selfoss, I saw a truck stop by the road and pick up two large aluminum cans left at the end of a farm track. A little further down the road, two more similar cans. I realized these cans were there to be collected by… well, I didn’t know who. No one in sight for miles. So, I’ll admit it: I stopped and opened one of those large cans, which contained a dairy product—a kind of very dense, compact white cheese (I later learned it was skyr). I scooped a nice layer from the top, smoothed the surface with my spoon, and carefully closed the can again. Yes, I know it wasn’t right, but that was over fifty years ago, and I can admit it now since the statute of limitations has surely passed, right? Another time, I boiled a piece of dried fish, hard as wood, for a long time on my camping stove—fish I’d taken from huge outdoor drying racks by the side of the road. On the road heading north from Reykjavík, the Akranes underwater tunnel didn’t exist yet. To get to Borgarnes and Snæfellsnes, you had to go around Hvalfjörður. Following the shore of this long fjord, I stumbled upon a whaling station in full operation. Intrigued by the plumes of steam and the sounds of machinery from the road, I stopped, and surprisingly, no one stopped me from entering the vast platform where workers were butchering a large whale. I’ll never forget the acrid smell of those huge piles of meat and bones, fat and guts, the screams of saws and winches, the steam from the boilers… A monstrous, hallucinatory sight that would shape a major interest for the rest of my life: whales.
At the end of my journey, I spent three days in the Westman Islands. The famous eruption of the Eldfell volcano had happened just months earlier, in 1973, and was barely over. Visiting Heimaey was one of the goals of my trip to Iceland, given my volcanology studies. Part of the fishing port was filled in by lava flows, and the entrance channel was reduced to just a few meters wide. Most of the village was covered by a layer of black, hot ash eight to ten meters thick. I walked on the roofs of houses—every now and then, a chimney or skylight would stick out. In the rain, this hot ash released intense steam; you couldn’t see twenty meters ahead. It felt like being in a giant outdoor sauna. The entire population had been evacuated during the eruption, but some residents were starting to return. Bulldozers and excavators were gradually clearing this gigantic mass of ash, street by street, layer by layer, avoiding demolishing the buried houses. A constant stream of trucks dumped these millions of tons of ash into the sea from a cliff. To finish clearing the houses, it was done with shovels and wheelbarrows, and this task was left to the homeowners. One day, I had the chance to lend a hand (or rather, a shovel) to a couple finishing clearing their house. They offered to let me pitch my tent near their place, on a thick layer of warm ash (I’d never experienced such comfort through my sleeping mat), and I’ll never forget that they gave me a big bowl of delicious soup they’d just made. The best meal I had during that trip. The next day, climbing the volcano, which was still smoking and spewing furiously, I nearly suffocated from sulfur dioxide and almost melted the soles of my shoes. So it was during this initiatory trip, 50 years ago, that my addiction to Iceland was born. The following year in Paris, by sheer chance—and perhaps helped by the magic of my amazing Kodachrome slides—I met a young woman who would become my wife. Very quickly, she became as hooked as I was on "the island of the world’s creation" (as I called it back then), and later, it was often her who’d say, "So… how about going back to Iceland this year?" We went back many times, in every season, summer and winter, and in every region of the country. And every time, when the plane starts its descent toward Keflavík Airport, we look at each other like kids invited to a birthday party, discovering the cake buffet… "Here we are… we’re back!"
Our travel conditions changed a lot afterward. With a better budget but still traveling independently, renting well-equipped 4x4s that let us go almost anywhere, at our own pace, including the highlands of the country’s interior. But always taking our time, dedicating each trip to fully exploring one region rather than rushing through kilometers. And leaving time for beautiful hikes or simply doing nothing—sitting at a viewpoint and just watching, observing the wild nature, in contemplative mode… Always staying with locals in the countryside, preferably on real farms with animals, thanks to an association of farmers offering accommodations. We speak fluent English and have learned a few common Icelandic phrases and expressions over time. With a bit of experience, we developed our little techniques for starting interesting conversations with Icelanders… who, thankfully, are no longer as distant as they were in 1974! We even made friends there.
We particularly loved the rugged, wild Iceland—not necessarily the desolate highlands of the interior, but rather the isolated regions where a few very old families still cling to their land and roots. With a soft spot for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and especially the Westfjords, the "Vestfirðir," as the Icelanders call them. But we also love the Northeast, and even the far Northeast, so remote and where almost no one goes. Over time, we’ve done a lot of reading. We’ve learned a great deal about Iceland—its painful history, its tormented geography, its economy, its incredible medieval literature (the Sagas), and some quirks of its culture. And we greatly appreciate its contemporary authors, whose books fill several shelves in our library.
In 2008, on a return trip to Iceland, we went to the Westman Islands, to Heimaey. I hadn’t been back since my first trip in 1974, right after the Eldfell eruption. It was a pilgrimage for me, so many years later! An emotional moment seeing the huge frozen lava flow again. On the trails now set up to explore this vast chaos, people have put up signs indicating the names of the streets buried under the lava and the nature of the crushed buildings fifteen meters below. Plaques mark the locations of public buildings—here was the school, down there was the hospital… The part of the town that was under ash has been cleared, but not entirely—two streets were left partially buried, probably to show tourists. The volcano is still hot at the top. We climbed it, but this time I didn’t melt my soles.
We often talk about Iceland. We still call it "the island of the world’s creation" and tell our traveler friends how much this country fascinated and enchanted us. Those who’ve never been find it a bit odd, but everyone who’s been there understands.
You may have noticed I’m talking about it in the past tense… Indeed, I’ll admit that for several years now, we haven’t been back to Iceland, and I don’t think we’ll return. What we see on social media and in the news puts us off a bit. Mass tourism has arrived, and many developments have been made—not always for the best. Now, with two and a half million visitors a year, Iceland welcomes nearly six times its population. Tourism has become a key source of income for Icelanders. Good for them, maybe, but we don’t like it at all. We’re a bit wild, perhaps. And besides… the world is vast… We loved Iceland passionately, but we’ve always been inveterate travelers in general. So over the past fifty years, we’ve certainly explored all of Iceland’s regions, but also in the North Atlantic—the beautiful Norway, the stunning Lofoten Islands, the Shetland archipelago, the rugged and grand Faroe Islands, and then further north in the Arctic—the icy Greenland, Svalbard at the edge of the world, and even the Sjuøyane, the last islands before the North Pole, with small groups of enthusiasts and scientists on expedition ships. And many other regions of the world, but always with a taste for slightly offbeat places, both in terms of landscapes and nature and ways of life. Central Asia, the Azores, Peru, Bolivia, the Andes, Chile, Argentina, the vast Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego… and other little secret gems we won’t reveal. Not even on Voyage Forum.
But everywhere—yes, I mean everywhere—wherever you are, wherever you go, there’s always a moment when you think of Iceland…
Chris 51 - November 2025.
Road trip from Nice to Livorno by car, then Corsica
I'd love some destination suggestions for a road trip from Nice to Livorno by car, including the routes, tolls to cross, distance, and estimated travel time. We're planning a 5-day trip, with 2 nights near Nice, 1 night along the way, and finally 2 nights in Livorno. There are 4 of us in a rental car, and we'd like to stay in either an apartment, a mobile home near the sea, or a campsite. Our budget isn't too extravagant!!!! We want to visit the Promenade des Anglais, and I've heard Menton is really interesting. Once we reach Livorno, we'll take the ferry to Corsica for 12 days with the same rental car. We're planning to leave the last week of May and the first two weeks of June 2026, so around 17-18 days total.
Thanks
Backpacking itinerary in Tunisia
Hi there,
I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November, backpacker-style (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach, and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, give or take.
First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule so I can book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south this time—I went there years ago and want to stay independent). I’ve sketched out the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few towns without budget-friendly hotels (even on Airbnb), which means I’ll be staying longer where they’re available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (time spent in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout options on booking sites first, then book on the spot for cheaper rates (no site commission + possible negotiation)? Also, are hotels not listed online and found randomly on-site much cheaper?
ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)
TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: A-R Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – pack a picnic + option: hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip) – worth it? Doable alone?
KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, Medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...
SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: A-R El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day A-R Monastir? Worth it? + option: 1 day A-R Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?
OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?)
Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on these options. Once I’ve adjusted the duration, I’ll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)
I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November, backpacker-style (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach, and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, give or take.
First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule so I can book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south this time—I went there years ago and want to stay independent). I’ve sketched out the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few towns without budget-friendly hotels (even on Airbnb), which means I’ll be staying longer where they’re available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (time spent in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout options on booking sites first, then book on the spot for cheaper rates (no site commission + possible negotiation)? Also, are hotels not listed online and found randomly on-site much cheaper?
ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)
TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: A-R Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – pack a picnic + option: hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip) – worth it? Doable alone?
KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, Medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...
SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: A-R El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day A-R Monastir? Worth it? + option: 1 day A-R Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?
OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?)
Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on these options. Once I’ve adjusted the duration, I’ll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)
Mauritian Ti' Punch
The recipe for the cocktail: endless beaches, a dazzling palette of colors, some breathtaking hikes, and excellent cuisine...
For the tasting, follow along in the pages of this travel journal! 😉
Don’t forget your hiking shoes, a swimsuit, sunscreen, but also a sweater, your driver’s license, and your credit card...
Just over 11 hours of flight, and we’ll be setting foot on Mauritian soil!
For the tasting, follow along in the pages of this travel journal! 😉
Don’t forget your hiking shoes, a swimsuit, sunscreen, but also a sweater, your driver’s license, and your credit card...
Just over 11 hours of flight, and we’ll be setting foot on Mauritian soil!
The Two of Us in Istanbul: A Turkish Blue Round
Hello everyone,
I’m not really a regular contributor to VoyageForum, but every time Kate and I travel, she encourages me to write a travel journal and publish it. And I must admit, it’s a very enjoyable intellectual exercise, though not always easy. As a VF contributor whose journals I’ve read once said, this retrospective work not only helps preserve memories but also provides a fruitful moment of introspection by bringing back emotions and feelings.
Kate and I spent a week in Istanbul. For her, who had already visited, it was a return; for me, it was a discovery.
As we’ve now made a habit of, I write the texts, and she posts her photos. We hope this illustrated story, crafted together, will revive beautiful sensations for those who know the city and inspire others to discover it. Here we go!
I’m not really a regular contributor to VoyageForum, but every time Kate and I travel, she encourages me to write a travel journal and publish it. And I must admit, it’s a very enjoyable intellectual exercise, though not always easy. As a VF contributor whose journals I’ve read once said, this retrospective work not only helps preserve memories but also provides a fruitful moment of introspection by bringing back emotions and feelings.
Kate and I spent a week in Istanbul. For her, who had already visited, it was a return; for me, it was a discovery.
As we’ve now made a habit of, I write the texts, and she posts her photos. We hope this illustrated story, crafted together, will revive beautiful sensations for those who know the city and inspire others to discover it. Here we go!
Hurghada and Luxor in July
Hi there,
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
Off on an adventure to Java (and a bit of Bali)
Hey there, community! Back this weekend, below is my travel journal from my adventure in Indonesia. Enjoy the read!!!
Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!
After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!
This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!
Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...
Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...
Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!
After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!
This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!
Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...
Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally the Tokyo metropolis
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)
-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)
-->7 days in Tokyo
The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)
-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)
-->7 days in Tokyo
The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Join me in discovering Gran Canaria
Introduction
We stayed on the island of Gran Canaria during the first three months of 2024. It’s the third Canary Island we’ve visited, after Tenerife and Lanzarote.
We rented an apartment in Temisas. By staying in the same place for such a long period, the total price dropped by 50%.
We also rented a vehicle to make getting around the island easier.
Why the Canary Islands, and Gran Canaria in particular? For its pleasant climate, the nature and diversity of its landscapes, the charming villages, and especially the beauty of its many beaches.
In this travel journal, you’ll find a list of the many activities we did during our stay to explore the different attractions of this island.
These attractions are categorized to make it easier to find what interests you.
Videos are included throughout the summary. Click on the image to start the video.
To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:
HIKES:
Roque Nublo Maspalomas Dunes - Part 1 Maspalomas Dunes - Part 2 Los Azulejos de Veneguera Barranco de Las Vacas Ventana del Bentayga (Arco del Aserrador) Caves of the King Ventana de Morro (Ventana de la Ganifa) The Dog of Bentayga Cave of the Four Doors Ventana del Nublo Artenera - Caves of Acusa Seca Temisas - El Gigante Cave Fortress of Ansite Puerto de Las Nieves - Roque de Las Nieves Temisas - Cuevas de la Audiencia Roque Bentayga Guayadeque Ravine (Guayadeque Hermitage) Guayadeque Ravine (Cueva de Bartalo) El Zumacal - Barranco Tauco Casablanca Dam (Los Dolores Dam) Ayagaures - La Angostura Dam & Gambuesa Dam Santa Brígida - Alonso Ravine & Centennial Dragon Tree Pino Santo Hike in the Azuaje Ravine Gáldar - Red Lands of Samarrita Tejeda - Charco de La Paloma Bandama Boiler (Camino Borde de Caldera Bandama) Teror - Alamo Ravine Trail – SL-4 Telde - Calasio Caves Special Natural Reserve of Los Tilos de Moya Los Azulejos - Charco de Las Aneas Fataga Ravine Arinaga Military Battery Trail Maspalomas - Las Fuentes and del Canizo Ravines Mogán - Tauro Mountain Trail Tamabada - Llanos de La Mimbre & Sobre la Cueva Viewpoints Trail Hike to the Coronadero Arch via Barranco Hondo Barranco de Silva - Hike to the Jerez Caves Gáldar - Samson Cave - La Atalaya Peak Agaete - Roque Guayedra and Guayedra Ravine Artenara - Caballero Caves Arucas - Bufadero Salt Flats Barranco de Pino Gordo - Natural Pools Telde - Los Cernícalos Ravine Las Cruces - Toba Caves & Picón Puerto de Las Nieves - Moro Cave Agüimes - Morros de Ávila Caves Juncalillo del Sur - Laguna & Salinas de Abajo Caves of Camino de San Felipe Cruz de Tejeda, Cruz Chico and Degollada Viewpoint Hike on the Patalavaca Circuit Motor Grande - Puerto Rico Arch El Montañón - Los Hornos Dam Seafront Walk - Amadores Beach – Puerto Rico Beach Las Niñas Dam El Hornillo - Omega & Omicron Caves Arteara Necropolis Mogán - El Mulato Dam Las Garzas - El Regante Dam La Plata Route - Cho Flores Dam & El Charco Hondo Vega de Acusa - La Candelaria Dam Candelaria Hermitage – Acusa Seca Viewpoint Valsequillo de Gran Canaria – Roque La Vela Ayagaures Dam – GC-602 Lomo del Palo - Monte Pavón Trail Lugar La Laguna - Levada Fataga Dam & Ravine
BEACHES:
Mogán Beach Taurito Beach Tauro Beach Amadores Beach Puerto Rico Beach Anfi del Mar Beach Patalavaca Beach Meloneras Beach Maspalomas Beach English Beach (Playa del Inglés) Las Burras Beach San Agustin Beach Las Alcaravaneras Beach Las Canteras Beach (La Cicer) Las Canteras Beach (La Puntilla) Las Canteras Beach (Santa Catalina) Aquamarina Beach El Agujero - Bocabarranco Beach Hoya Del Pozo Beach Hoya Del Pozo Beach - Lizard with amputated tail El Cabron Beach Ojos de Garza Beach El Burrero Beach
NATURAL POOLS:
Charco Azul - El Risco Agaete Salt Flats Charco de Los Espejos - Sardina del Norte Natural Pools of Punta de Gáldar Snorkeling in the natural pool of Punta de Gáldar Natural Pool La Furnia o El Clavo - Gáldar Natural Pool of Los Dos Roques Emiliano Natural Pool - El Agujero Natural Pool of El Agujero Natural Pools of Roque Prieto Natural Pool El Altillo Los Charcones de Bañaderos – Arucas Natural Pools of El Charco de Las Palomas – Arucas Natural Pools of La Laja - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Cueva de la Reina Mora - La Garita Natural Pools of Castillo del Romeral
TOWNS:
Center
Santa Brigida Vega de San Mateo Tejeda Artenara Vallesco Teror
Southwest
Santa Lucia de Tirajana Fataga San Bartolomé de Tirajana Puerto de Mogán La Aldea de San Nicolas
North
Arucas Firgas Moya Santa Maria de Guia Gáldar Agaete Puerto de Las Nieves
East
Vegueta - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Triana - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Ciudad Jardin - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Canteras - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Telde Valsequillo de Gran Canaria Ingenio Agüimes Temisas
VIEWPOINTS:
GC-60 Route (or nearby) GC-210 Route (or nearby) GC-210 Route between the tunnel and La Aldea de San Nicolás GC-215 & GC-65 Routes (or nearby) GC-200 Route (or nearby) GC-130 Route (or nearby) & GC-605 GC-70 Route (or nearby) & GC-21 Sheep herd on GC-70 Route GC-150, GC-240, GC-305, GC-350 & GC-301 Routes GC-606, GC-295, GC-231 and GC-41 Routes (or nearby) Viewpoints – GC-1 Route (or nearby) Viewpoints - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Viewpoints - GC-2, GC-21, GC-15, GC-216 and GC-132 Routes (or nearby) Viewpoints - GC-503 & GC-217 Routes Viewpoints - GC-604, GC-505, GC-132, GC-42 and GC-802 Routes
MISCELLANEOUS:
San Rafael Aqueduct - Telde Abandoned San Rafael Estate - La Higuera Cenobio de Valerón La Cesta - Tejeda Puerto de la Aldea Scenic Route GC-671 to El Espinillo Scenic Route GC-607 to El Chorrillo The Galdar Cube (Santiago Quarry) Scenic Route GC-504 to Ayagaures Abandoned seaside resort in the Azuaje Ravine El Bufadero de La Garita – Telde GC-505 Route Abandoned Finca Las Haciendas (Los Mocanes) – Las Vegas de Valsequillo Ruins of San Juan Battery - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Viera y Clavijo Canarian Botanical Garden - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Tenefé Salt Flats Los Pérez, Lugarejos & Las Hoyas Dams Monte Pavón, Gran Canaria’s little Ireland Valleseco Lagoon Recreational Area Climbing - Fataga Ravine Surfing – El Agujero El Cairete Restaurant - Carrizal de Tejeda Paragliding flight observation - Los Giles La Cuevita Ayagaures Restaurant Statues and Murals - Cruce de Arinaga Aviation Monument (Las Majoreras) & Murals – Carrizal Artistic recycling by Antonio Peñita - Ojos de Garza Rainbows
We stayed on the island of Gran Canaria during the first three months of 2024. It’s the third Canary Island we’ve visited, after Tenerife and Lanzarote.
We rented an apartment in Temisas. By staying in the same place for such a long period, the total price dropped by 50%.
We also rented a vehicle to make getting around the island easier.
Why the Canary Islands, and Gran Canaria in particular? For its pleasant climate, the nature and diversity of its landscapes, the charming villages, and especially the beauty of its many beaches.
In this travel journal, you’ll find a list of the many activities we did during our stay to explore the different attractions of this island.
These attractions are categorized to make it easier to find what interests you.
Videos are included throughout the summary. Click on the image to start the video.
To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:
HIKES:
Roque Nublo Maspalomas Dunes - Part 1 Maspalomas Dunes - Part 2 Los Azulejos de Veneguera Barranco de Las Vacas Ventana del Bentayga (Arco del Aserrador) Caves of the King Ventana de Morro (Ventana de la Ganifa) The Dog of Bentayga Cave of the Four Doors Ventana del Nublo Artenera - Caves of Acusa Seca Temisas - El Gigante Cave Fortress of Ansite Puerto de Las Nieves - Roque de Las Nieves Temisas - Cuevas de la Audiencia Roque Bentayga Guayadeque Ravine (Guayadeque Hermitage) Guayadeque Ravine (Cueva de Bartalo) El Zumacal - Barranco Tauco Casablanca Dam (Los Dolores Dam) Ayagaures - La Angostura Dam & Gambuesa Dam Santa Brígida - Alonso Ravine & Centennial Dragon Tree Pino Santo Hike in the Azuaje Ravine Gáldar - Red Lands of Samarrita Tejeda - Charco de La Paloma Bandama Boiler (Camino Borde de Caldera Bandama) Teror - Alamo Ravine Trail – SL-4 Telde - Calasio Caves Special Natural Reserve of Los Tilos de Moya Los Azulejos - Charco de Las Aneas Fataga Ravine Arinaga Military Battery Trail Maspalomas - Las Fuentes and del Canizo Ravines Mogán - Tauro Mountain Trail Tamabada - Llanos de La Mimbre & Sobre la Cueva Viewpoints Trail Hike to the Coronadero Arch via Barranco Hondo Barranco de Silva - Hike to the Jerez Caves Gáldar - Samson Cave - La Atalaya Peak Agaete - Roque Guayedra and Guayedra Ravine Artenara - Caballero Caves Arucas - Bufadero Salt Flats Barranco de Pino Gordo - Natural Pools Telde - Los Cernícalos Ravine Las Cruces - Toba Caves & Picón Puerto de Las Nieves - Moro Cave Agüimes - Morros de Ávila Caves Juncalillo del Sur - Laguna & Salinas de Abajo Caves of Camino de San Felipe Cruz de Tejeda, Cruz Chico and Degollada Viewpoint Hike on the Patalavaca Circuit Motor Grande - Puerto Rico Arch El Montañón - Los Hornos Dam Seafront Walk - Amadores Beach – Puerto Rico Beach Las Niñas Dam El Hornillo - Omega & Omicron Caves Arteara Necropolis Mogán - El Mulato Dam Las Garzas - El Regante Dam La Plata Route - Cho Flores Dam & El Charco Hondo Vega de Acusa - La Candelaria Dam Candelaria Hermitage – Acusa Seca Viewpoint Valsequillo de Gran Canaria – Roque La Vela Ayagaures Dam – GC-602 Lomo del Palo - Monte Pavón Trail Lugar La Laguna - Levada Fataga Dam & Ravine
BEACHES:
Mogán Beach Taurito Beach Tauro Beach Amadores Beach Puerto Rico Beach Anfi del Mar Beach Patalavaca Beach Meloneras Beach Maspalomas Beach English Beach (Playa del Inglés) Las Burras Beach San Agustin Beach Las Alcaravaneras Beach Las Canteras Beach (La Cicer) Las Canteras Beach (La Puntilla) Las Canteras Beach (Santa Catalina) Aquamarina Beach El Agujero - Bocabarranco Beach Hoya Del Pozo Beach Hoya Del Pozo Beach - Lizard with amputated tail El Cabron Beach Ojos de Garza Beach El Burrero Beach
NATURAL POOLS:
Charco Azul - El Risco Agaete Salt Flats Charco de Los Espejos - Sardina del Norte Natural Pools of Punta de Gáldar Snorkeling in the natural pool of Punta de Gáldar Natural Pool La Furnia o El Clavo - Gáldar Natural Pool of Los Dos Roques Emiliano Natural Pool - El Agujero Natural Pool of El Agujero Natural Pools of Roque Prieto Natural Pool El Altillo Los Charcones de Bañaderos – Arucas Natural Pools of El Charco de Las Palomas – Arucas Natural Pools of La Laja - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Cueva de la Reina Mora - La Garita Natural Pools of Castillo del Romeral
TOWNS:
Center
Santa Brigida Vega de San Mateo Tejeda Artenara Vallesco Teror
Southwest
Santa Lucia de Tirajana Fataga San Bartolomé de Tirajana Puerto de Mogán La Aldea de San Nicolas
North
Arucas Firgas Moya Santa Maria de Guia Gáldar Agaete Puerto de Las Nieves
East
Vegueta - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Triana - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Ciudad Jardin - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Canteras - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Telde Valsequillo de Gran Canaria Ingenio Agüimes Temisas
VIEWPOINTS:
GC-60 Route (or nearby) GC-210 Route (or nearby) GC-210 Route between the tunnel and La Aldea de San Nicolás GC-215 & GC-65 Routes (or nearby) GC-200 Route (or nearby) GC-130 Route (or nearby) & GC-605 GC-70 Route (or nearby) & GC-21 Sheep herd on GC-70 Route GC-150, GC-240, GC-305, GC-350 & GC-301 Routes GC-606, GC-295, GC-231 and GC-41 Routes (or nearby) Viewpoints – GC-1 Route (or nearby) Viewpoints - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Viewpoints - GC-2, GC-21, GC-15, GC-216 and GC-132 Routes (or nearby) Viewpoints - GC-503 & GC-217 Routes Viewpoints - GC-604, GC-505, GC-132, GC-42 and GC-802 Routes
MISCELLANEOUS:
San Rafael Aqueduct - Telde Abandoned San Rafael Estate - La Higuera Cenobio de Valerón La Cesta - Tejeda Puerto de la Aldea Scenic Route GC-671 to El Espinillo Scenic Route GC-607 to El Chorrillo The Galdar Cube (Santiago Quarry) Scenic Route GC-504 to Ayagaures Abandoned seaside resort in the Azuaje Ravine El Bufadero de La Garita – Telde GC-505 Route Abandoned Finca Las Haciendas (Los Mocanes) – Las Vegas de Valsequillo Ruins of San Juan Battery - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Viera y Clavijo Canarian Botanical Garden - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Tenefé Salt Flats Los Pérez, Lugarejos & Las Hoyas Dams Monte Pavón, Gran Canaria’s little Ireland Valleseco Lagoon Recreational Area Climbing - Fataga Ravine Surfing – El Agujero El Cairete Restaurant - Carrizal de Tejeda Paragliding flight observation - Los Giles La Cuevita Ayagaures Restaurant Statues and Murals - Cruce de Arinaga Aviation Monument (Las Majoreras) & Murals – Carrizal Artistic recycling by Antonio Peñita - Ojos de Garza Rainbows
Croatia, Montenegro – two victims of overtourism?
Mid-June, two Auvergnats on the starting blocks—off we go to the former Yugoslavia!
We’d already explored some nooks and crannies of northern Croatia back in 2019, so we’re keeping the momentum going by planning a trip to the south of the country and then Montenegro.
On the way back, we’ll drift into Bosnia-Herzegovina just to mix things up a bit!
We’re a little unsure about what to expect in terms of tourist crowds.
Dubrovnik has a reputation for being the hardest-hit city by overtourism, and Kotor and the whole Dalmatian coast aren’t exactly empty...
Luckily, most European countries haven’t started school holidays yet, and some measures seem to have been put in place to limit the flow (like restrictions on the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at the same time).
Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?
For now, we’re slamming the doors of the Scirocco and heading off to our first stop: northern Italy!
On the way back, we’ll drift into Bosnia-Herzegovina just to mix things up a bit!
We’re a little unsure about what to expect in terms of tourist crowds.
Dubrovnik has a reputation for being the hardest-hit city by overtourism, and Kotor and the whole Dalmatian coast aren’t exactly empty...
Luckily, most European countries haven’t started school holidays yet, and some measures seem to have been put in place to limit the flow (like restrictions on the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at the same time).
Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?
For now, we’re slamming the doors of the Scirocco and heading off to our first stop: northern Italy!
Second trip to Iceland
We stayed in Iceland from August 27 to September 13, 2023. Actually, this was our second trip to the island.
During our first visit, we rented a camper van from Snail Motorhome Rental, a family-run business that provided outstanding service.
Unfortunately, we discovered that this company no longer exists.
So, we rented a camper van through a third party, specifically via the Nordic Travel Group website.
We chose City Car Rental, located near Keflavik Airport, because the rental cost was really appealing.
Apart from the quality of the sleeping bags and the size of the pillows we rented, our experience with this company was very positive.
We noticed a significant increase in tourism since our last trip in 2015.
Several sites have been redeveloped, and parking is now paid in many places.
Accommodations have multiplied, not only near major cities but also in remote areas.
One notable advantage, however, was discovering the wide variety of food products available in supermarkets. In 2015, the selection was very limited.
I invite you to continue reading this travel journal and watch the videos that will let you explore this destination, which has everything to charm outdoor enthusiasts.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Click on the image to start the video.
To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:
Hlauptungufoss, Midfoss and Bruarfoss Geysir, Blesi and Strokkur Gullfoss Brúarhlöð Canyon Faxafoss Kiðjabergsvöllur – Belvedere Kerið Crater Reykjadalur Valley – Hike to the hot springs Seljalandsfoss Gljúfrabúi Waterfall Seljavallalaug – One of Iceland’s oldest geothermal pools Skógafoss – Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail (partial) Kvernufoss Plane wreck at Solheimasandur Dyrhólaey Peninsula Reynisfjara Beach – Puffins and seals Vík í Mýrdal Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon Skaftafell National Park – Svartifoss, Magnusarfoss & Hundafoss Svínafellsjökull Glacier Hofskirkja Church Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (West) Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (East) Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Litlanefsfoss and Hengifoss Rjúkandi (Rjúkandafoss) Stuðlagil Canyon Selfoss and Dettifoss Krafla – Viti Crater Lake Krafla – Leirhnjúkur Lava Field Hverir Geothermal Site (Námafjall) Hverir – Hverarönd Geothermal Site – Blue Lagoon Grjótagjá – Hot Spring Cave Stóragjá – Hot Spring Cave Goðafoss Akureyri Zipline Hofsós – Pool by the Skagafjörður Fjord Víðimýrarkirkja Church Hvítserkur Rock – The Troll of Northwest Iceland Gislahellir (Gisli's Cave) Dynjandi (Fjallfoss) – One of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls Hellulaug (Natural hot spring pool) Stykkishólmur – Stykkishólmshöfn Port Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Ólafsvík – Bugsfoss Lóndrangar Basalt Columns Arnarstapi Ytri-Tunga Farm – Seal watching Deildartunguhver Hot Spring Hraunfossar & Barnafoss Exploring Reykjavik Reykjavik – Whale Safari – Whale watching Raufarholshellir Lava Tunnel Gígvatnsvatn Lake (Green Lake/Graenevatn) Seltún Geothermal Site (Krýsuvík) Kleifarvatn Lake Blue Lagoon Thermal Spa Gunnuhver Geothermal Site Reykjanes Peninsula – Reykjanesviti Lighthouse Reykjanes Peninsula – Valahnúkamöl – Reykjanestá Ægissíðufoss Super Jeep excursion to Landmannalaugar Hiking in Landmannalaugar Scenery along the way
During our first visit, we rented a camper van from Snail Motorhome Rental, a family-run business that provided outstanding service.
Unfortunately, we discovered that this company no longer exists.
So, we rented a camper van through a third party, specifically via the Nordic Travel Group website.
We chose City Car Rental, located near Keflavik Airport, because the rental cost was really appealing.
Apart from the quality of the sleeping bags and the size of the pillows we rented, our experience with this company was very positive.
We noticed a significant increase in tourism since our last trip in 2015.
Several sites have been redeveloped, and parking is now paid in many places.
Accommodations have multiplied, not only near major cities but also in remote areas.
One notable advantage, however, was discovering the wide variety of food products available in supermarkets. In 2015, the selection was very limited.
I invite you to continue reading this travel journal and watch the videos that will let you explore this destination, which has everything to charm outdoor enthusiasts.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Click on the image to start the video.
To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:
Hlauptungufoss, Midfoss and Bruarfoss Geysir, Blesi and Strokkur Gullfoss Brúarhlöð Canyon Faxafoss Kiðjabergsvöllur – Belvedere Kerið Crater Reykjadalur Valley – Hike to the hot springs Seljalandsfoss Gljúfrabúi Waterfall Seljavallalaug – One of Iceland’s oldest geothermal pools Skógafoss – Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail (partial) Kvernufoss Plane wreck at Solheimasandur Dyrhólaey Peninsula Reynisfjara Beach – Puffins and seals Vík í Mýrdal Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon Skaftafell National Park – Svartifoss, Magnusarfoss & Hundafoss Svínafellsjökull Glacier Hofskirkja Church Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (West) Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (East) Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Litlanefsfoss and Hengifoss Rjúkandi (Rjúkandafoss) Stuðlagil Canyon Selfoss and Dettifoss Krafla – Viti Crater Lake Krafla – Leirhnjúkur Lava Field Hverir Geothermal Site (Námafjall) Hverir – Hverarönd Geothermal Site – Blue Lagoon Grjótagjá – Hot Spring Cave Stóragjá – Hot Spring Cave Goðafoss Akureyri Zipline Hofsós – Pool by the Skagafjörður Fjord Víðimýrarkirkja Church Hvítserkur Rock – The Troll of Northwest Iceland Gislahellir (Gisli's Cave) Dynjandi (Fjallfoss) – One of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls Hellulaug (Natural hot spring pool) Stykkishólmur – Stykkishólmshöfn Port Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Ólafsvík – Bugsfoss Lóndrangar Basalt Columns Arnarstapi Ytri-Tunga Farm – Seal watching Deildartunguhver Hot Spring Hraunfossar & Barnafoss Exploring Reykjavik Reykjavik – Whale Safari – Whale watching Raufarholshellir Lava Tunnel Gígvatnsvatn Lake (Green Lake/Graenevatn) Seltún Geothermal Site (Krýsuvík) Kleifarvatn Lake Blue Lagoon Thermal Spa Gunnuhver Geothermal Site Reykjanes Peninsula – Reykjanesviti Lighthouse Reykjanes Peninsula – Valahnúkamöl – Reykjanestá Ægissíðufoss Super Jeep excursion to Landmannalaugar Hiking in Landmannalaugar Scenery along the way
2 weeks in the Cyclades
Hi everyone!
Blue skies (lots of them), whitewashed villages with steep alleyways, hundreds of churches, and... thousands of stairs? Welcome to the Cyclades! 🙂
We’d been dreaming about this for a while, but in July-August—with the crowds—no way! Now that I can travel outside school holidays, the Cyclades are back on the agenda. And so begins a loooong period of planning and second-guessing, with countless itinerary changes: the Cyclades, yes, but which ones? I was fixated on Folegandros (we won’t be going after all) and really wanted to visit Delos. So, for this first trip, it’ll be: Mykonos (and Delos)-Naxos-Amorgos-Santorini.
Saturday 24/05: Departure from Orly on a Transavia flight, arriving in Mykonos in the late afternoon. We found a hotel that offers free transfers (pretty rare and not insignificant—it’s 25 € each way for just a few kilometers 😠) and at a reasonable price (83 € per night for B&B). Time for dinner already: Greek salad and souvlaki (we’re in Greece, right?)
(Okay, this is actually a dakos with Naxos cheese, but I don’t have a photo of a Greek salad 😏).
Blue skies (lots of them), whitewashed villages with steep alleyways, hundreds of churches, and... thousands of stairs? Welcome to the Cyclades! 🙂
We’d been dreaming about this for a while, but in July-August—with the crowds—no way! Now that I can travel outside school holidays, the Cyclades are back on the agenda. And so begins a loooong period of planning and second-guessing, with countless itinerary changes: the Cyclades, yes, but which ones? I was fixated on Folegandros (we won’t be going after all) and really wanted to visit Delos. So, for this first trip, it’ll be: Mykonos (and Delos)-Naxos-Amorgos-Santorini.
Saturday 24/05: Departure from Orly on a Transavia flight, arriving in Mykonos in the late afternoon. We found a hotel that offers free transfers (pretty rare and not insignificant—it’s 25 € each way for just a few kilometers 😠) and at a reasonable price (83 € per night for B&B). Time for dinner already: Greek salad and souvlaki (we’re in Greece, right?)
(Okay, this is actually a dakos with Naxos cheese, but I don’t have a photo of a Greek salad 😏).Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide
Preamble:
.
This isn’t about drumming up business for a new professional venture—just sharing, under pressure from eager Vf members hungry for juicy anecdotes, my 10-day trip to Marrakech with 10 friends.
I’d mentioned during the planning discussion for this trip ((https://voyageforum.com/forum/questions-excursions-autour-marrakech-d10685703/)) that there wouldn’t be a travel journal... And since I’m a man of my word—but also stuck with a nasty calf muscle tear at the end of the trip that’s keeping me immobile for 15 days (more on that later)—I’ve got some time to dedicate to this. So, after this preamble, off we go to the Medina!
.
Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split
Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)
So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/
I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.
After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...
Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)
.Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split
Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)
So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/
I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.
After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...
Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)
West USA Road Trip August 2022
Hello everyone,
I’m starting a travel journal about the amazing round trip I took in August 2022 with a big circuit through the US West.
Here’s what I posted on another travel forum back when VoyageForum hadn’t yet regained its freedom. 😉
Hello!
We got back yesterday in the middle of the afternoon, and here’s a quick first take on the 2022 round trip.
Has America changed? You could say that, yeah. For better? For worse? Who knows. A massive circuit—nearly 8,000 kilometers, actually around 5,000–6,000 miles.
Round-trip flights went smoothly, except for Air France on the way back, which let a rather large dog in the cabin with an owner who let it roam around the plane. Cool, Air France... Outrageous!
The rough itinerary: Salt Lake City. Jackson Hole–Grand Teton. Yellowstone. Cody. Rock Springs. Moab–Arches–Canyonlands. Monument Valley. Grand Canyon. Bryce Canyon. Zion Park. Las Vegas. Death Valley. Mammoth Lakes. Tioga Road. Mariposa. Yosemite Valley. San Francisco.
Tourists on site—a sociological study:
Italians: Always nice but just as loud as ever! Hispanics: Same as the Italians, just a different language. Germans: *Ein, zwei, ach mein Gott!* Order and discipline! Americans: Still no manners whatsoever. Pathetic. I’m only talking about the tourists, not the locals who work there. Quebecers: Pure joy! English-speaking Canadians: Same as the Americans. Asians: For the Japanese, it’s perfect. But the others from the Middle Kingdom... Let’s not start a war over this. There’s already Ukraine going on. And yet... Israelis: Still no manners. The Kibbutz kids are the bane of this country. French: Some excellent, some very good, some good, and some... not much.
Note that tourists in the northern part of the trip were much better behaved than those in the south. "Hello," "Goodbye," offering a hand? Etc. Few Asians in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Lots of locals. The same goes for hotel staff in the northern part—more attentive. Really cool!
On the other hand, we were pretty surprised not to encounter any African-American locals in Montana, Wyoming, Utah, or even Arizona—whether tourists or employees. It’s quite striking, to be honest.
The Hotels:
Holiday Inn - 206 South West Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84101, United States. A modern but soulless hotel. Basically, a place to pass through. Minimal breakfast.
Miller Park Lodge - 155 North Jackson Street - Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Not a hotel but a luxury motel. 750 € for two nights!! No breakfast. Huge room where you could hold a tea dance!! Well-located. No staff. Only room of the month-long stay that was fully redone during those two days.
Best Western Weston Inn. 103 Gibbon Avenue, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 Well-located, not far from the park entrance. Minimal breakfast. Friendly staff. Room refreshed every two days.
Best Western Sunset Inn. 1601 8th St, Cody, 82414-4134 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff.
Baymont by Wyndham 2717 Dewar Drive, Rock Springs, WY 82901 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
Wingate by Wyndham Moab. 126 South Highway 191, Moab, 84532 End of the "family" hotels. Start of the tourist hotels. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
Hampton Inn Kayenta. US Highway 160, Kayenta, AZ 86033, United States A stopover hotel run by the Navajos. Friendly staff wearing masks. Lots of people. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
La Quinta by Wyndham Williams. 1100 Cataract Lake Rd, Williams, AZ 86046, United States Finally, Route 66 for 500 meters! The staff is there. Nothing more. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
BEST WESTERN PLUS Ruby's Inn. 26 South Main Street, Bryce Canyon City, UT 84764, United States A factory!!! Great Hispanic or Romanian staff! A liquor store in the hotel! Awesome! Very good breakfast, but go early because the crowd—and the jerks—are there! Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
BEST WESTERN Casino Royale - 3411 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Strip, Las Vegas Good hotel at a reasonable price. No breakfast, but Denny’s is next door. Quiet hotel despite the casino. Friendly staff. No memory of seeing any pets!
Shilo Inn Mammoth Lake. 2963 Main Street, Mammoth Lake Disastrous! Ineffective security system. Fire doors propped open with wooden wedges. Tiny breakfast room. No staff in the room. Tables not cleaned. Minimal breakfast. Gross pool. Rooms need work. No, the whole hotel needs to be redone. They say they’re renovating. They’d be better off tearing it down. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Very bad memory. Apparently, there’s supposed to be staff in this hotel.
Quality Inn Yosemite Valley Gateway. 4994 Bullion Street, Mariposa, CA 95338 Hotel or motel? Booking should clean up its listings! No room refresh! Minimal breakfast. The staff is there. Nothing more.
Comfort Inn by the Bay. 775 Van Ness Avenue, Marina District, San Francisco No room refresh in four days! Minimal breakfast. Friendly and helpful staff. Well-located. Depends on what for, but well-located.
And then there are those who steal apples from the breakfast to put in their bags in the morning, those who fill up their famous US water bottles with orange juice from the breakfast pump, those who don’t clear their tables—I could go on. And also, those who don’t say hello or respond to a greeting!
Met some super nice French people (in the northern parks)! They’ll recognize themselves!
And the magic phrase that opens doors with Americans: "Do you speak French? OK, good!" Laughter guaranteed!
Don’t try that with Asians who run souvenir shops in big cities—they have no sense of humor unless it’s about the color of the green bill.
The park rangers are always available! Great!
And 5,000 photos to sort and organize, plus a few hours of dashcam videos!
See you soon.
Until the next update...
I’m starting a travel journal about the amazing round trip I took in August 2022 with a big circuit through the US West.
Here’s what I posted on another travel forum back when VoyageForum hadn’t yet regained its freedom. 😉
Hello!
We got back yesterday in the middle of the afternoon, and here’s a quick first take on the 2022 round trip.
Has America changed? You could say that, yeah. For better? For worse? Who knows. A massive circuit—nearly 8,000 kilometers, actually around 5,000–6,000 miles.
Round-trip flights went smoothly, except for Air France on the way back, which let a rather large dog in the cabin with an owner who let it roam around the plane. Cool, Air France... Outrageous!
The rough itinerary: Salt Lake City. Jackson Hole–Grand Teton. Yellowstone. Cody. Rock Springs. Moab–Arches–Canyonlands. Monument Valley. Grand Canyon. Bryce Canyon. Zion Park. Las Vegas. Death Valley. Mammoth Lakes. Tioga Road. Mariposa. Yosemite Valley. San Francisco.
Tourists on site—a sociological study:
Italians: Always nice but just as loud as ever! Hispanics: Same as the Italians, just a different language. Germans: *Ein, zwei, ach mein Gott!* Order and discipline! Americans: Still no manners whatsoever. Pathetic. I’m only talking about the tourists, not the locals who work there. Quebecers: Pure joy! English-speaking Canadians: Same as the Americans. Asians: For the Japanese, it’s perfect. But the others from the Middle Kingdom... Let’s not start a war over this. There’s already Ukraine going on. And yet... Israelis: Still no manners. The Kibbutz kids are the bane of this country. French: Some excellent, some very good, some good, and some... not much.
Note that tourists in the northern part of the trip were much better behaved than those in the south. "Hello," "Goodbye," offering a hand? Etc. Few Asians in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Lots of locals. The same goes for hotel staff in the northern part—more attentive. Really cool!
On the other hand, we were pretty surprised not to encounter any African-American locals in Montana, Wyoming, Utah, or even Arizona—whether tourists or employees. It’s quite striking, to be honest.
The Hotels:
Holiday Inn - 206 South West Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84101, United States. A modern but soulless hotel. Basically, a place to pass through. Minimal breakfast.
Miller Park Lodge - 155 North Jackson Street - Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Not a hotel but a luxury motel. 750 € for two nights!! No breakfast. Huge room where you could hold a tea dance!! Well-located. No staff. Only room of the month-long stay that was fully redone during those two days.
Best Western Weston Inn. 103 Gibbon Avenue, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 Well-located, not far from the park entrance. Minimal breakfast. Friendly staff. Room refreshed every two days.
Best Western Sunset Inn. 1601 8th St, Cody, 82414-4134 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff.
Baymont by Wyndham 2717 Dewar Drive, Rock Springs, WY 82901 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
Wingate by Wyndham Moab. 126 South Highway 191, Moab, 84532 End of the "family" hotels. Start of the tourist hotels. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
Hampton Inn Kayenta. US Highway 160, Kayenta, AZ 86033, United States A stopover hotel run by the Navajos. Friendly staff wearing masks. Lots of people. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
La Quinta by Wyndham Williams. 1100 Cataract Lake Rd, Williams, AZ 86046, United States Finally, Route 66 for 500 meters! The staff is there. Nothing more. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.
BEST WESTERN PLUS Ruby's Inn. 26 South Main Street, Bryce Canyon City, UT 84764, United States A factory!!! Great Hispanic or Romanian staff! A liquor store in the hotel! Awesome! Very good breakfast, but go early because the crowd—and the jerks—are there! Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!
BEST WESTERN Casino Royale - 3411 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Strip, Las Vegas Good hotel at a reasonable price. No breakfast, but Denny’s is next door. Quiet hotel despite the casino. Friendly staff. No memory of seeing any pets!
Shilo Inn Mammoth Lake. 2963 Main Street, Mammoth Lake Disastrous! Ineffective security system. Fire doors propped open with wooden wedges. Tiny breakfast room. No staff in the room. Tables not cleaned. Minimal breakfast. Gross pool. Rooms need work. No, the whole hotel needs to be redone. They say they’re renovating. They’d be better off tearing it down. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Very bad memory. Apparently, there’s supposed to be staff in this hotel.
Quality Inn Yosemite Valley Gateway. 4994 Bullion Street, Mariposa, CA 95338 Hotel or motel? Booking should clean up its listings! No room refresh! Minimal breakfast. The staff is there. Nothing more.
Comfort Inn by the Bay. 775 Van Ness Avenue, Marina District, San Francisco No room refresh in four days! Minimal breakfast. Friendly and helpful staff. Well-located. Depends on what for, but well-located.
And then there are those who steal apples from the breakfast to put in their bags in the morning, those who fill up their famous US water bottles with orange juice from the breakfast pump, those who don’t clear their tables—I could go on. And also, those who don’t say hello or respond to a greeting!
Met some super nice French people (in the northern parks)! They’ll recognize themselves!
And the magic phrase that opens doors with Americans: "Do you speak French? OK, good!" Laughter guaranteed!
Don’t try that with Asians who run souvenir shops in big cities—they have no sense of humor unless it’s about the color of the green bill.
The park rangers are always available! Great!
And 5,000 photos to sort and organize, plus a few hours of dashcam videos!
See you soon.
Until the next update...
3 weeks in Colombia (August 2023)
Why Colombia?
It's quite simple. For the past few years, my daughter has been living with a Colombian from Bogotá. The idea was to discover his country, meet his family, and do part of the trip all four of us together.
We’re heading out first as scouts, then they’ll join us to continue the journey.
The itinerary was shared in another post—now it’s time for the impressions.
No photos, as for me, it’s video and nothing more!
Day 1: The big departure What was planned: A flight from Lyon Saint-Exupéry late morning heading to Frankfurt. Two hours of waiting in Frankfurt (just enough time to eat a pretzel!!) and then off to Bogotá for an arrival around 7 PM local time. I hadn’t done the Check-Mig (to be done 72 hours before the flight). I did it on my phone, giving a fake arrival date in Colombia, and the attendant told me there wouldn’t be any issues in Bogotá. Actually, two hours of delay at departure in Lyon because a sick passenger was on the plane—they had to evacuate him, and the ambulance that was supposed to be there didn’t have permission to come near the plane. Ah, French administrative formalities!!!!! Flight to Frankfurt with Lufthansa went smoothly. A sprint through the airport—very well organized. Connection secured, so we boarded the plane, and two hours later than scheduled, we took off for an 11-hour flight! Arrival in Bogotá, and the immigration process took over an hour and a half because of the crowds. However, no issues with the Check-Mig—they barely glanced at it. Our daughter’s father-in-law ended up waiting over 3 hours at the airport because of this!!! Surprise: No luggage. Luckily, we had packed essentials in our carry-ons! Quick administrative paperwork, and Lufthansa informed me our bags would be on the next flight, so no big deal. Off to our hotel in La Candelaria and a good night’s rest.
The plus: We’re in Bogotá! The minus: Flight delays are becoming more and more common.
Day 1: The big departure What was planned: A flight from Lyon Saint-Exupéry late morning heading to Frankfurt. Two hours of waiting in Frankfurt (just enough time to eat a pretzel!!) and then off to Bogotá for an arrival around 7 PM local time. I hadn’t done the Check-Mig (to be done 72 hours before the flight). I did it on my phone, giving a fake arrival date in Colombia, and the attendant told me there wouldn’t be any issues in Bogotá. Actually, two hours of delay at departure in Lyon because a sick passenger was on the plane—they had to evacuate him, and the ambulance that was supposed to be there didn’t have permission to come near the plane. Ah, French administrative formalities!!!!! Flight to Frankfurt with Lufthansa went smoothly. A sprint through the airport—very well organized. Connection secured, so we boarded the plane, and two hours later than scheduled, we took off for an 11-hour flight! Arrival in Bogotá, and the immigration process took over an hour and a half because of the crowds. However, no issues with the Check-Mig—they barely glanced at it. Our daughter’s father-in-law ended up waiting over 3 hours at the airport because of this!!! Surprise: No luggage. Luckily, we had packed essentials in our carry-ons! Quick administrative paperwork, and Lufthansa informed me our bags would be on the next flight, so no big deal. Off to our hotel in La Candelaria and a good night’s rest.
The plus: We’re in Bogotá! The minus: Flight delays are becoming more and more common.
Discovering Assam and Nagaland 2025
Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!
Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.
I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!
Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.
Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.
I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!
Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.
Mixed (even disappointed) review of the NCL Sky Indian Ocean cruise from April 19 to May 3, 2025
Hi everyone,
I’m back from this “mixed” two-week cruise in the Indian Ocean on the Norwegian Sky.
Originally, I had booked a cruise with AIDA (also in the Indian Ocean), but unfortunately, the company decided to cancel it and offered us other options, which we declined because the dates didn’t work for us.
Since my wife really wants to do a cruise in the Indian Ocean, but very few companies offer this destination, it’s a bit complicated—especially when the dates don’t line up. Finding a good compromise between companies and timing is tough. Retirement can’t come soon enough!!!
After some research, I found a really great itinerary with Silversea (a luxury cruise line) for a 19-day cruise from Cape Town to Victoria, stopping in Madagascar (2 days), Praslin, La Digue... But my wife couldn’t get the time off. Not only was the itinerary amazing, but the price was unbeatable (5,200 € per person for a balcony suite, all-inclusive). What a shame—I would’ve loved to try this company, but maybe next time (if we’re lucky enough to have the chance).
My wife tried to take unpaid leave but wasn’t successful... Oh well!
On my end, I have more flexibility with vacation time since I travel a lot for work, so I can accumulate my days off and take them when it suits me.
So, we settled for this cruise (the only one that matched my wife’s vacation dates). Sure, we weren’t thrilled about the ship, but the itinerary wasn’t bad. We figured, why not?
I requested a quote from Logitravel, and after a discount, we paid 2,600 € per person for a balcony cabin (category BA) with the More At Sea package, which includes: 300 minutes of internet, premium drinks, 5 restaurants, and discounts on excursions...
The itinerary:
Day 1 Dubai (UAE) Boarding 11:59 PM Day 2 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 7:00 AM Day 3 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 2:00 PM Day 4 Sea day Day 5 Sea day Day 6 Sea day Day 7 Sea day Day 8 La Digue (Seychelles) 10:00 AM 8:00 PM Day 9 Mahé (Seychelles) 7:00 AM 8:00 PM Day 10 Sea day Day 11 Antsiranana (Madagascar) 7:00 AM 6:00 PM Day 12 Sea day Day 13 Pointe des Galets (Réunion) 8:00 AM 9:00 PM Day 14 Port Louis (Mauritius) 7:00 AM Day 15 Port Louis (Mauritius) 8:00 AM
After booking the cruise, I started looking for flights (Paris/Dubai and Mauritius/Paris). It’s peak Easter vacation time, so tickets are crazy expensive... I ran several simulations on Skyscanner and was shocked by the prices.
A direct flight from Paris to Dubai with Emirates is 1,400 € per person (one way), and the return from Mauritius to Paris (also with Emirates via Dubai) is 1,350 € per person.
Given these outrageous prices, I decided to book a flight with a layover. The best value I found was with Qatar (via Doha) for 650 € per person, with a 2.5-hour layover in Doha, and a direct flight from Mauritius to Paris with Corsair for 750 € per person.
With the More At Sea package, we had a 300 € credit per person for flight tickets (as long as we booked through NCL).
I requested a quote, and they offered: OUTBOUND: April 18, 2025 – Egyptair CDG-CAIRO 10:05 PM-2:30 AM February 19, 2025 – CAIRO-DUBAI 5:30 AM-10:55 AM RETURN: May 3, 2025 – Kenya Airways Port Louis-Nairobi 6:50 PM-10:10 PM, Nairobi-CDG 11:50 PM(+1)-7:30 AM (price: 950 € per person).
Sure, the price was good, but we didn’t want to fly with those airlines, and NCL didn’t have any other options. So, we booked our flights ourselves.
D-Day: Departure from Paris on April 18 with Qatar via Doha:
Two days before leaving, I checked in online and took the opportunity to buy seats near the emergency exits since my wife tends to get swollen legs on long flights. So, she prefers having extra legroom (cost: 132 € per person). It’s a bit pricey, but peace of mind is priceless.
Usually, when I have an early flight from Roissy, I always book a hotel the night before (near the airport) to avoid stress and not miss my flight. But since it was school vacation time and Good Friday, we decided to leave very early from home...
The flight was scheduled for 9:05 AM. We live 70 km from the airport and had to be there by 7:05 AM.
We barely slept... Up at 4:30 AM, and by 5:45 AM, our Uber was outside. We arrived at the airport (Roissy Terminal 1) by 6:50 AM.
Check-in was smooth—less than 10 minutes, and our bags were dropped off with boarding passes in hand.
This was my first time flying out of Roissy Terminal 1 since it was renovated for the Olympics. Wow, it’s a huge improvement—nothing like the old “camembert box” we used to know!
A few photos:
Coming up: Layover in Doha
I’m back from this “mixed” two-week cruise in the Indian Ocean on the Norwegian Sky.
Originally, I had booked a cruise with AIDA (also in the Indian Ocean), but unfortunately, the company decided to cancel it and offered us other options, which we declined because the dates didn’t work for us.
Since my wife really wants to do a cruise in the Indian Ocean, but very few companies offer this destination, it’s a bit complicated—especially when the dates don’t line up. Finding a good compromise between companies and timing is tough. Retirement can’t come soon enough!!!
After some research, I found a really great itinerary with Silversea (a luxury cruise line) for a 19-day cruise from Cape Town to Victoria, stopping in Madagascar (2 days), Praslin, La Digue... But my wife couldn’t get the time off. Not only was the itinerary amazing, but the price was unbeatable (5,200 € per person for a balcony suite, all-inclusive). What a shame—I would’ve loved to try this company, but maybe next time (if we’re lucky enough to have the chance).
My wife tried to take unpaid leave but wasn’t successful... Oh well!
On my end, I have more flexibility with vacation time since I travel a lot for work, so I can accumulate my days off and take them when it suits me.
So, we settled for this cruise (the only one that matched my wife’s vacation dates). Sure, we weren’t thrilled about the ship, but the itinerary wasn’t bad. We figured, why not?
I requested a quote from Logitravel, and after a discount, we paid 2,600 € per person for a balcony cabin (category BA) with the More At Sea package, which includes: 300 minutes of internet, premium drinks, 5 restaurants, and discounts on excursions...
The itinerary:
Day 1 Dubai (UAE) Boarding 11:59 PM Day 2 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 7:00 AM Day 3 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 2:00 PM Day 4 Sea day Day 5 Sea day Day 6 Sea day Day 7 Sea day Day 8 La Digue (Seychelles) 10:00 AM 8:00 PM Day 9 Mahé (Seychelles) 7:00 AM 8:00 PM Day 10 Sea day Day 11 Antsiranana (Madagascar) 7:00 AM 6:00 PM Day 12 Sea day Day 13 Pointe des Galets (Réunion) 8:00 AM 9:00 PM Day 14 Port Louis (Mauritius) 7:00 AM Day 15 Port Louis (Mauritius) 8:00 AM
After booking the cruise, I started looking for flights (Paris/Dubai and Mauritius/Paris). It’s peak Easter vacation time, so tickets are crazy expensive... I ran several simulations on Skyscanner and was shocked by the prices.
A direct flight from Paris to Dubai with Emirates is 1,400 € per person (one way), and the return from Mauritius to Paris (also with Emirates via Dubai) is 1,350 € per person.
Given these outrageous prices, I decided to book a flight with a layover. The best value I found was with Qatar (via Doha) for 650 € per person, with a 2.5-hour layover in Doha, and a direct flight from Mauritius to Paris with Corsair for 750 € per person.
With the More At Sea package, we had a 300 € credit per person for flight tickets (as long as we booked through NCL).
I requested a quote, and they offered: OUTBOUND: April 18, 2025 – Egyptair CDG-CAIRO 10:05 PM-2:30 AM February 19, 2025 – CAIRO-DUBAI 5:30 AM-10:55 AM RETURN: May 3, 2025 – Kenya Airways Port Louis-Nairobi 6:50 PM-10:10 PM, Nairobi-CDG 11:50 PM(+1)-7:30 AM (price: 950 € per person).
Sure, the price was good, but we didn’t want to fly with those airlines, and NCL didn’t have any other options. So, we booked our flights ourselves.
D-Day: Departure from Paris on April 18 with Qatar via Doha:
Two days before leaving, I checked in online and took the opportunity to buy seats near the emergency exits since my wife tends to get swollen legs on long flights. So, she prefers having extra legroom (cost: 132 € per person). It’s a bit pricey, but peace of mind is priceless.
Usually, when I have an early flight from Roissy, I always book a hotel the night before (near the airport) to avoid stress and not miss my flight. But since it was school vacation time and Good Friday, we decided to leave very early from home...
The flight was scheduled for 9:05 AM. We live 70 km from the airport and had to be there by 7:05 AM.
We barely slept... Up at 4:30 AM, and by 5:45 AM, our Uber was outside. We arrived at the airport (Roissy Terminal 1) by 6:50 AM.
Check-in was smooth—less than 10 minutes, and our bags were dropped off with boarding passes in hand.
This was my first time flying out of Roissy Terminal 1 since it was renovated for the Olympics. Wow, it’s a huge improvement—nothing like the old “camembert box” we used to know!
A few photos:
Coming up: Layover in Doha
Feedback to improve my summer itinerary in Greece
Hello,
I’ll be in Greece with my two daughters, aged 10 and 13, from July 6th to 27th.
I’ve planned a route that seems fairly coherent, but I’d love to hear your thoughts:
J1 – Arrive in Athens in the afternoon and head straight to Corinth for the night J2 – Relax (beach) and visit Corinth or nearby – night in Corinth J3 – Mycenae + Epidaurus + Nafplio – night in Nafplio J4 – Mystras + Olympia – night in Olympia J5 – Delphi – night in Delphi J6 – Meteora (monasteries and more) – night in Kalambaka J7 – Meteora (nature walk) – night in Athens J8 – Explore Athens – night in Athens J9 – Explore Athens – night in Athens J10 – Ferry to Santorini + visit – night in Santorini J11 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J12 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J13 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J14 – Naxos – night in Naxos J15 – Naxos – night in Naxos J16 – Naxos – night in Naxos J17 – Paros – night in Paros J18 – Paros – night in Paros J19 – Paros – night in Paros J20 – Paros – night in Paros J21 – Ferry from Paros to Athens (is this possible?) – night in Athens J22 – Departure late morning
I’d like to know if there’s a town in the Peloponnese where we can stay and visit everything from there—I’d prefer not to change hotels every night. Are there any stops I can skip? Any must-see additions? I’d love to find pools or beaches to cool off at the end of the day—with the heat and the kids, we’ll need to refresh after sightseeing! For the Cyclades, I’m thinking of spending just an afternoon and evening in Santorini before moving on. I’m looking for authentic, quiet, beautiful islands with few tourists and nice beaches. Should I book all our rooms before leaving, or can we improvise a little? Thanks for your tips!
J1 – Arrive in Athens in the afternoon and head straight to Corinth for the night J2 – Relax (beach) and visit Corinth or nearby – night in Corinth J3 – Mycenae + Epidaurus + Nafplio – night in Nafplio J4 – Mystras + Olympia – night in Olympia J5 – Delphi – night in Delphi J6 – Meteora (monasteries and more) – night in Kalambaka J7 – Meteora (nature walk) – night in Athens J8 – Explore Athens – night in Athens J9 – Explore Athens – night in Athens J10 – Ferry to Santorini + visit – night in Santorini J11 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J12 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J13 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J14 – Naxos – night in Naxos J15 – Naxos – night in Naxos J16 – Naxos – night in Naxos J17 – Paros – night in Paros J18 – Paros – night in Paros J19 – Paros – night in Paros J20 – Paros – night in Paros J21 – Ferry from Paros to Athens (is this possible?) – night in Athens J22 – Departure late morning
I’d like to know if there’s a town in the Peloponnese where we can stay and visit everything from there—I’d prefer not to change hotels every night. Are there any stops I can skip? Any must-see additions? I’d love to find pools or beaches to cool off at the end of the day—with the heat and the kids, we’ll need to refresh after sightseeing! For the Cyclades, I’m thinking of spending just an afternoon and evening in Santorini before moving on. I’m looking for authentic, quiet, beautiful islands with few tourists and nice beaches. Should I book all our rooms before leaving, or can we improvise a little? Thanks for your tips!