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The 4000 Islands (Southern Laos)
PAKSE AND THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU
Bolavens (or "Bolovens" – "the region of the Lavens," an old tribe).
PAKSE
A sleepy town, but packed with backpackers in transit between Laos and Cambodia. The streets are numbered, but since there are no signs, you just have to figure it out (rumor has it the signs have been planned for years; luckily, the center isn’t big). Tons of small hotels, including the well-known Sabaidy 2 on Street 20, a big bazaar catering to all budgets, from dark dorms with shared bathrooms to real rooms with terraces or balconies. Since it’s so popular, booking ahead is recommended. My favorite: the Sala Champa, pricier but with two large terraces, one with a bar, and especially a terrace restaurant I consider the best in Pakse (try the divine steamed fish with lemongrass + Lao Gold beer, a rare delight; ask for room 100, with a big terrace). More upscale, the lovely Résidence Sisouk, run by the very classy and French-speaking Mme Sisouk, from the wealthy Lao Sisouk family, the country’s top coffee producer and one of those francophone families you encounter here and there around the world, where class and culture reign – and perfect French. Delicious pastries and, of course, extraordinary coffee tastings. Similar prices at the Pakse Hotel, run by French owners and famous for its rooftop bar-restaurant (great view!).
Tons of restaurants besides those at Sala Champa and Pakse Hotel: from Dao Lin and Sabaidee at the corner of Street 20 and 13, to a decent Indian place (Hassan) and a nice, cheap spot, the Lao Restaurant & Bar, where you can enjoy Lao cuisine for just a few kips, both also on Street 20. You can feast on grilled fish at the countless riverside stalls along the Mekong.
Pakse is home to the famous Yves, a Belgian married to a Lao woman, Noy, who opened the travel agency Miss Noy. He’ll go out of his way to help tourists; he’s incredible, the real tourism office for the region, with maps, endless advice, and every weekday at 6 PM, a full-blown lecture on the Bolavens and the 4000 Islands. A bunch of young travelers listen intently to his explanations about the whole area (he hands out a well-made photocopied map). He also rents bikes and has an internet café with computers that, miraculously, work perfectly. He’s so popular that in high season, you need to book a motorbike 2-3 days in advance (but if he’s out – and he has 40 – he’ll find one for you).
THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU
Plateaus just aren’t my thing – flat-lands! There are some relatively high peaks in the middle, but they’re only accessible by trekking. You can do a small loop from Pakse-Tad Lo-Thateng-Pakson-Pakse, or a big one from Tad Lo to Sekong, then head south to join the Paksong-Pakse road. Starting in the north, the Phu Xam waterfalls are okay (interesting local minority village-museum to the right of the parking lot, and a terrace restaurant above the small falls). Well, they’re on the way, so you might as well see them! After that, a boring road leads to the Tad Lo waterfalls, with tons of small hotels. I chose the big blue house by the river at the right corner of the bridge, the Sipaseth GH, with cute little bungalows in the garden, 4 rooms with balconies overlooking the river, and great food on the terrace facing the falls. **Avoid at all costs**: the Saisee GH, once nice with its little stilt houses by the falls, but now a monument to filth, indifference, and rudeness (confirmed by several people, unanimous on the issue). Luckily, the lovely Tad Lo Lodge, with its bungalows by the falls and gourmet restaurant right above them – not cheap at all – finally built small houses in the woods on the other side for $25.
The next morning, I’d had enough of plateaus, so I took a small loop heading south from Tad Lo to Thateng, and there, a wonder 5 km south of town: the Sinouk Resort. It’s like stepping into *Gone with the Wind* or the Chevalier de Leyritz’s Martinique. In the middle of the Sisouk family’s 34-hectare coffee plantation, a huge garden with three large colonial-style houses: one by the river and pond with a suite + 3 luxury rooms + a small, cozy one for $40 (that’s where I stayed), one with 4 superior rooms for $60, and a very large one overlooking everything with 6 luxury rooms ($60) + 2 huge suites for $90. Of course, it’s all decorated with antique furniture, local knick-knacks, and antiques; there’s a pool, a beautiful restaurant with two terraces, one overlooking a large pond and one by its edge. The food and service are impeccable, and the coffee: from espresso with whipped cream to green tea or wild honey cappuccino… too bad it keeps you up, or you’d sip it all evening (and morning, and afternoon, and in between). In short, a dream!
Back to Pakse via Paksong (what a dump!) and the Tad Fane waterfalls, those are spectacular – twin sisters plunging 200 meters. You can hike down to swim at the bottom (1-hour jungle trek round trip). Across the way, the nice Tad Fane Resort (small houses and a big terrace-restaurant facing the falls).
I think I missed the Katamkok waterfalls, but I don’t believe it – all these falls can’t compare to Ban Gioc Falls in northern Vietnam!!!
CHAMPASAK AND THE 4000 ISLANDS
CHAMPASAK
Even sleepier than Pakse! To avoid the ferry, cross the new Mekong bridge in Pakse, and after about 10 km, turn left at the big "Phaphinoy" sign (the first village in town). When you arrive, turn at the "River Resort" sign. A sumptuous resort on the Mekong, developed with American capital – pure luxury (they even have their own rice field and vegetable garden for the restaurant). Continuing on, you’ll come across the very pleasant Anouxa GH, where I had dinner and stayed. Small bungalows facing the river, garden rooms, and two large wooden houses with huge family rooms + a big terrace on the Mekong, and the food is great! They rent bikes and motorbikes. Further to the right, the pricey Inthira Hotel, which I found uninteresting since it’s on the road instead of by the Mekong. There’s also a Folie Lodge on Don Daeng Island, which I didn’t visit (the word "Folie" is justified: crazy prices, up to $200 and more).
A few nice wats and, of course, Wat Phou, Laos’ most important archaeological site, 10 km south of Champassak in the plains and on the mountainside (the stairs are a killer!). Watch out for the scorching heat, and it closes at 4:30 PM. It’s not Angkor Wat, but it’s still worth the detour. Plan for 2 hours. Entry is 50,000 kips + 5,000 to park your motorbike.
KHIET NGON
To continue south to the 4000 Islands, you have to take the "ferry" (actually fun little things – two canoes joined by a platform; better not mess up when loading your motorbike!). Once on the other side, turn left, and you’ll hit National Road 13 (Pakse-Siphandone, the 4000 Islands), the most boring road I’ve ever been on, like Phnom Penh-Siem Reap – flat and nothing to see. BUT there’s a real gem worth checking out: Kiet Ngon. At Km 48, take the laterite road toward Attapeu (big sign: "Attapeu 155 km") and eat red dust for 8 km (toll: 20,000 kips), then turn right (signposted) onto a good track. You enter the beautiful Xe Pian National Park, where you can still find wild elephants, leopards, and tigers. You arrive at the entrance of the small village of Ban Khiet Ngon. On your right, a small concrete building with 4 decent, cheap rooms (60,000 kips), facing an old wooden house that serves as the tourism office and its "elephant parking" garden. This village is where you can go on an elephant ride (20,000 kips) to the top of Phou Asa, one of the most unusual places I’ve ever seen. You climb through the jungle and emerge onto a flat slate summit, completely bare – it really feels like the Moon! In the distance, an astonishing site built to commemorate a victory by Lao nationalists over Siamese invaders in the 19th century (so the site isn’t 1,000 years old, as the locals claim). A vast archaeological site with an enclosure 180 m by 50 m, marked by 2-meter-high walls and columns made of slate stacked without mortar. At the back, a ruined temple and a tower. Beautiful views of the whole region. Popular with tourists arriving by minibus from Pakse. The elephant rides in a line aren’t my thing, so they tell you it’s forbidden to ride a motorbike, but I did it anyway without any issues – except for the unhappy looks from the mahouts (turn right at the village entrance, sign for "Phou Asa").
If you’ve got the funds, follow the signs for "Kingfisher Lodge" and arrive at Laos’ first ecolodge, developed by a Lao-Italian family. Lovely stilt houses (750,000 kips with breakfast) and 2 bungalows with just fans (250,000 kips). A small two-story wooden building with a restaurant and a terrace by a pond – the bonus: in the evening, wild elephants and buffalo come to drink with you. Booking ahead is recommended since it’s popular with groups from Pakse.
Paper guides also mention the more remote village of Ban Papho, deep in the jungle. There used to be elephant rides, but they’ve stopped. However, there are great treks in the national park (check with the Green Discovery agency in Pakse, which specializes in treks all over Laos).
THE 4000 ISLANDS
You continue on the mind-numbing Road 13 from Pakse and arrive at a brand-new bridge leading to Don Khong Island, where there’s nothing to see except two wats, so if you skip it, you’re not missing much. Next, the Nakasang sign, a small port with mini-ferries crossing the Mekong to Don Det Island. A celebrity, that one – one of those trashy spots for young people who think you can only have fun if you’re wasted on alcohol and drugs. A small street along the river, lined with guesthouses, restaurants, and bars – total chaos! Plus, there’s nothing to see on the island. So, take a tuk-tuk from the jetty, cross the dump, and arrive in a little paradise: Don Khone Island. I planned to stay 2 days but had to be dragged away after 6. A small main village with a dirt road, tons of guesthouses and great restaurants, and lots of beautiful things to see.
For lodging on Don Khone, it’s usually wooden bungalows with river-view terraces. Options range from the elegant and pricey Sala Done Hotel to Somphamit, Pan’s, Pakha GH, and many others. I found my haven away from everything: the little Phonvilay, 3 small bamboo buildings with 2 simple rooms each, terraces above a branch of the Mekong, and a big plus – a small path just to the right that goes down the riverbank, so 3-4 nice swims a day. All for 60,000 kips. To get there, turn right at the end of the bridge until you reach the wat, then take the small path to the river on the right of the wat’s wall.
For food, you’re spoiled for choice. I had all my dinners at the Cordon Bleu of the Fleur du Mékong. I don’t know how she does it, but even the simplest dishes have something extra. She’s famous for her curry (more like a mild stew) of duck or chicken with potatoes and sweet potatoes – a hearty treat. Go for the chicken; Asian ducks are all skin and bones. Her grilled fish is divine!
The island has quite a history: the Mekong upstream is over a kilometer wide (it’s said to reach 14 km during high water) and "falls" onto a rocky barrier. It splits into countless small branches, flowing wherever there’s a crack – hence the 4000 Islands and the impressive rapids. The French discovered this while trying to navigate the Mekong from Saigon to Luang Prabang and China – and bam, impassable! So they built a narrow-gauge railway starting from the south of the island, bypassing the rapids, and ending at the north of Don Det Island. You can see two rusted locomotives, discovered in the jungle in 1990 by a French explorer: one in the southern extension of the bridge and the other in Ban Hang Khone village at the southern tip of the island, both with large English signs and fascinating old photos explaining the whole history of the railway, abandoned when Road 13 was built along the 4000 Islands (the rails were removed, and the railway track is now an excellent trail).
Somphamit Rapids (Li Phi)
Locals call them Li Phi, meaning "the abyss of evil spirits" (the "phi" that Lao people still believe in), because they think the falls and rapids trap spirits, to the point that no one would ever swim there. It’s very dramatic. Entry fee: 35,000 kips. Small beach and a big restaurant with a terrace and thatched-roof tables.
Khon Pa Sai Rapids
A completely different kind, just as spectacular, and less crowded. Turn left at the bridge exit and go to the northern end of the island (Ban Khon Nua village), then continue south until you see a big yellow sign "Khon Pa Sai Waterfalls" pointing to a small path on the left. You arrive at a small suspension bridge with a corner restaurant and terrace where the food is great (I had most of my lunches there). Cross the bridge and follow the path to a spectacular site of falls and rapids. In the middle, you’ll see unique structures – gigantic fish traps over 10 meters long. During high water, each trap can catch up to 500 kg of fish (yes, five hundred) per day.
Ban Hang Khone
This is the "French port" at the southern tip of the island, where the Mekong, after its rapids, spreads out for kilometers – a real inland sea. This is where you can see the famous Irrawaddy dolphins in the morning or late afternoon (boat excursions). To get there, take the trail that was the old railway track, or continue south on the path past the Khon Pa Sai falls (but not by motorbike – the bridge is out). A huge concrete terrace, part of the old port facilities, with a magnificent panoramic view of the Mekong stretching into the distance. Just before, a small path leads to a big beach (with restaurants).
If you go back to Road 13 (or take a pirogue from Don Khone), further south are the Pha Peng Falls, Asia’s highest river falls (15 m). I didn’t go, but they’re said to be spectacular.
Bolavens (or "Bolovens" – "the region of the Lavens," an old tribe).
PAKSE
A sleepy town, but packed with backpackers in transit between Laos and Cambodia. The streets are numbered, but since there are no signs, you just have to figure it out (rumor has it the signs have been planned for years; luckily, the center isn’t big). Tons of small hotels, including the well-known Sabaidy 2 on Street 20, a big bazaar catering to all budgets, from dark dorms with shared bathrooms to real rooms with terraces or balconies. Since it’s so popular, booking ahead is recommended. My favorite: the Sala Champa, pricier but with two large terraces, one with a bar, and especially a terrace restaurant I consider the best in Pakse (try the divine steamed fish with lemongrass + Lao Gold beer, a rare delight; ask for room 100, with a big terrace). More upscale, the lovely Résidence Sisouk, run by the very classy and French-speaking Mme Sisouk, from the wealthy Lao Sisouk family, the country’s top coffee producer and one of those francophone families you encounter here and there around the world, where class and culture reign – and perfect French. Delicious pastries and, of course, extraordinary coffee tastings. Similar prices at the Pakse Hotel, run by French owners and famous for its rooftop bar-restaurant (great view!).
Tons of restaurants besides those at Sala Champa and Pakse Hotel: from Dao Lin and Sabaidee at the corner of Street 20 and 13, to a decent Indian place (Hassan) and a nice, cheap spot, the Lao Restaurant & Bar, where you can enjoy Lao cuisine for just a few kips, both also on Street 20. You can feast on grilled fish at the countless riverside stalls along the Mekong.
Pakse is home to the famous Yves, a Belgian married to a Lao woman, Noy, who opened the travel agency Miss Noy. He’ll go out of his way to help tourists; he’s incredible, the real tourism office for the region, with maps, endless advice, and every weekday at 6 PM, a full-blown lecture on the Bolavens and the 4000 Islands. A bunch of young travelers listen intently to his explanations about the whole area (he hands out a well-made photocopied map). He also rents bikes and has an internet café with computers that, miraculously, work perfectly. He’s so popular that in high season, you need to book a motorbike 2-3 days in advance (but if he’s out – and he has 40 – he’ll find one for you).
THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU
Plateaus just aren’t my thing – flat-lands! There are some relatively high peaks in the middle, but they’re only accessible by trekking. You can do a small loop from Pakse-Tad Lo-Thateng-Pakson-Pakse, or a big one from Tad Lo to Sekong, then head south to join the Paksong-Pakse road. Starting in the north, the Phu Xam waterfalls are okay (interesting local minority village-museum to the right of the parking lot, and a terrace restaurant above the small falls). Well, they’re on the way, so you might as well see them! After that, a boring road leads to the Tad Lo waterfalls, with tons of small hotels. I chose the big blue house by the river at the right corner of the bridge, the Sipaseth GH, with cute little bungalows in the garden, 4 rooms with balconies overlooking the river, and great food on the terrace facing the falls. **Avoid at all costs**: the Saisee GH, once nice with its little stilt houses by the falls, but now a monument to filth, indifference, and rudeness (confirmed by several people, unanimous on the issue). Luckily, the lovely Tad Lo Lodge, with its bungalows by the falls and gourmet restaurant right above them – not cheap at all – finally built small houses in the woods on the other side for $25.
The next morning, I’d had enough of plateaus, so I took a small loop heading south from Tad Lo to Thateng, and there, a wonder 5 km south of town: the Sinouk Resort. It’s like stepping into *Gone with the Wind* or the Chevalier de Leyritz’s Martinique. In the middle of the Sisouk family’s 34-hectare coffee plantation, a huge garden with three large colonial-style houses: one by the river and pond with a suite + 3 luxury rooms + a small, cozy one for $40 (that’s where I stayed), one with 4 superior rooms for $60, and a very large one overlooking everything with 6 luxury rooms ($60) + 2 huge suites for $90. Of course, it’s all decorated with antique furniture, local knick-knacks, and antiques; there’s a pool, a beautiful restaurant with two terraces, one overlooking a large pond and one by its edge. The food and service are impeccable, and the coffee: from espresso with whipped cream to green tea or wild honey cappuccino… too bad it keeps you up, or you’d sip it all evening (and morning, and afternoon, and in between). In short, a dream!
Back to Pakse via Paksong (what a dump!) and the Tad Fane waterfalls, those are spectacular – twin sisters plunging 200 meters. You can hike down to swim at the bottom (1-hour jungle trek round trip). Across the way, the nice Tad Fane Resort (small houses and a big terrace-restaurant facing the falls).
I think I missed the Katamkok waterfalls, but I don’t believe it – all these falls can’t compare to Ban Gioc Falls in northern Vietnam!!!
CHAMPASAK AND THE 4000 ISLANDS
CHAMPASAK
Even sleepier than Pakse! To avoid the ferry, cross the new Mekong bridge in Pakse, and after about 10 km, turn left at the big "Phaphinoy" sign (the first village in town). When you arrive, turn at the "River Resort" sign. A sumptuous resort on the Mekong, developed with American capital – pure luxury (they even have their own rice field and vegetable garden for the restaurant). Continuing on, you’ll come across the very pleasant Anouxa GH, where I had dinner and stayed. Small bungalows facing the river, garden rooms, and two large wooden houses with huge family rooms + a big terrace on the Mekong, and the food is great! They rent bikes and motorbikes. Further to the right, the pricey Inthira Hotel, which I found uninteresting since it’s on the road instead of by the Mekong. There’s also a Folie Lodge on Don Daeng Island, which I didn’t visit (the word "Folie" is justified: crazy prices, up to $200 and more).
A few nice wats and, of course, Wat Phou, Laos’ most important archaeological site, 10 km south of Champassak in the plains and on the mountainside (the stairs are a killer!). Watch out for the scorching heat, and it closes at 4:30 PM. It’s not Angkor Wat, but it’s still worth the detour. Plan for 2 hours. Entry is 50,000 kips + 5,000 to park your motorbike.
KHIET NGON
To continue south to the 4000 Islands, you have to take the "ferry" (actually fun little things – two canoes joined by a platform; better not mess up when loading your motorbike!). Once on the other side, turn left, and you’ll hit National Road 13 (Pakse-Siphandone, the 4000 Islands), the most boring road I’ve ever been on, like Phnom Penh-Siem Reap – flat and nothing to see. BUT there’s a real gem worth checking out: Kiet Ngon. At Km 48, take the laterite road toward Attapeu (big sign: "Attapeu 155 km") and eat red dust for 8 km (toll: 20,000 kips), then turn right (signposted) onto a good track. You enter the beautiful Xe Pian National Park, where you can still find wild elephants, leopards, and tigers. You arrive at the entrance of the small village of Ban Khiet Ngon. On your right, a small concrete building with 4 decent, cheap rooms (60,000 kips), facing an old wooden house that serves as the tourism office and its "elephant parking" garden. This village is where you can go on an elephant ride (20,000 kips) to the top of Phou Asa, one of the most unusual places I’ve ever seen. You climb through the jungle and emerge onto a flat slate summit, completely bare – it really feels like the Moon! In the distance, an astonishing site built to commemorate a victory by Lao nationalists over Siamese invaders in the 19th century (so the site isn’t 1,000 years old, as the locals claim). A vast archaeological site with an enclosure 180 m by 50 m, marked by 2-meter-high walls and columns made of slate stacked without mortar. At the back, a ruined temple and a tower. Beautiful views of the whole region. Popular with tourists arriving by minibus from Pakse. The elephant rides in a line aren’t my thing, so they tell you it’s forbidden to ride a motorbike, but I did it anyway without any issues – except for the unhappy looks from the mahouts (turn right at the village entrance, sign for "Phou Asa").
If you’ve got the funds, follow the signs for "Kingfisher Lodge" and arrive at Laos’ first ecolodge, developed by a Lao-Italian family. Lovely stilt houses (750,000 kips with breakfast) and 2 bungalows with just fans (250,000 kips). A small two-story wooden building with a restaurant and a terrace by a pond – the bonus: in the evening, wild elephants and buffalo come to drink with you. Booking ahead is recommended since it’s popular with groups from Pakse.
Paper guides also mention the more remote village of Ban Papho, deep in the jungle. There used to be elephant rides, but they’ve stopped. However, there are great treks in the national park (check with the Green Discovery agency in Pakse, which specializes in treks all over Laos).
THE 4000 ISLANDS
You continue on the mind-numbing Road 13 from Pakse and arrive at a brand-new bridge leading to Don Khong Island, where there’s nothing to see except two wats, so if you skip it, you’re not missing much. Next, the Nakasang sign, a small port with mini-ferries crossing the Mekong to Don Det Island. A celebrity, that one – one of those trashy spots for young people who think you can only have fun if you’re wasted on alcohol and drugs. A small street along the river, lined with guesthouses, restaurants, and bars – total chaos! Plus, there’s nothing to see on the island. So, take a tuk-tuk from the jetty, cross the dump, and arrive in a little paradise: Don Khone Island. I planned to stay 2 days but had to be dragged away after 6. A small main village with a dirt road, tons of guesthouses and great restaurants, and lots of beautiful things to see.
For lodging on Don Khone, it’s usually wooden bungalows with river-view terraces. Options range from the elegant and pricey Sala Done Hotel to Somphamit, Pan’s, Pakha GH, and many others. I found my haven away from everything: the little Phonvilay, 3 small bamboo buildings with 2 simple rooms each, terraces above a branch of the Mekong, and a big plus – a small path just to the right that goes down the riverbank, so 3-4 nice swims a day. All for 60,000 kips. To get there, turn right at the end of the bridge until you reach the wat, then take the small path to the river on the right of the wat’s wall.
For food, you’re spoiled for choice. I had all my dinners at the Cordon Bleu of the Fleur du Mékong. I don’t know how she does it, but even the simplest dishes have something extra. She’s famous for her curry (more like a mild stew) of duck or chicken with potatoes and sweet potatoes – a hearty treat. Go for the chicken; Asian ducks are all skin and bones. Her grilled fish is divine!
The island has quite a history: the Mekong upstream is over a kilometer wide (it’s said to reach 14 km during high water) and "falls" onto a rocky barrier. It splits into countless small branches, flowing wherever there’s a crack – hence the 4000 Islands and the impressive rapids. The French discovered this while trying to navigate the Mekong from Saigon to Luang Prabang and China – and bam, impassable! So they built a narrow-gauge railway starting from the south of the island, bypassing the rapids, and ending at the north of Don Det Island. You can see two rusted locomotives, discovered in the jungle in 1990 by a French explorer: one in the southern extension of the bridge and the other in Ban Hang Khone village at the southern tip of the island, both with large English signs and fascinating old photos explaining the whole history of the railway, abandoned when Road 13 was built along the 4000 Islands (the rails were removed, and the railway track is now an excellent trail).
Somphamit Rapids (Li Phi)
Locals call them Li Phi, meaning "the abyss of evil spirits" (the "phi" that Lao people still believe in), because they think the falls and rapids trap spirits, to the point that no one would ever swim there. It’s very dramatic. Entry fee: 35,000 kips. Small beach and a big restaurant with a terrace and thatched-roof tables.
Khon Pa Sai Rapids
A completely different kind, just as spectacular, and less crowded. Turn left at the bridge exit and go to the northern end of the island (Ban Khon Nua village), then continue south until you see a big yellow sign "Khon Pa Sai Waterfalls" pointing to a small path on the left. You arrive at a small suspension bridge with a corner restaurant and terrace where the food is great (I had most of my lunches there). Cross the bridge and follow the path to a spectacular site of falls and rapids. In the middle, you’ll see unique structures – gigantic fish traps over 10 meters long. During high water, each trap can catch up to 500 kg of fish (yes, five hundred) per day.
Ban Hang Khone
This is the "French port" at the southern tip of the island, where the Mekong, after its rapids, spreads out for kilometers – a real inland sea. This is where you can see the famous Irrawaddy dolphins in the morning or late afternoon (boat excursions). To get there, take the trail that was the old railway track, or continue south on the path past the Khon Pa Sai falls (but not by motorbike – the bridge is out). A huge concrete terrace, part of the old port facilities, with a magnificent panoramic view of the Mekong stretching into the distance. Just before, a small path leads to a big beach (with restaurants).
If you go back to Road 13 (or take a pirogue from Don Khone), further south are the Pha Peng Falls, Asia’s highest river falls (15 m). I didn’t go, but they’re said to be spectacular.
Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, and Muang Ngoi (Laos) – Trip Report
Arrival at Luang Prabang Airport: Got my visa on the spot in under 5 minutes, but it cost me $40 + $1 for some "processing fee" and a photo.
First ATM withdrawal of the maximum allowed—about 82 €! Luckily, I had euros on me because each withdrawal comes with a fixed fee of 30,000 kips (like in Thailand, where it’s 200 baht per withdrawal, but here you can take out up to 800 €!).
Then I took the airport taxi service for 100,000 kips per person. It’s a minivan that drops passengers (8–10) at their hotels. The ticket booth is right at the exit—easy to spot with a sign that says "Taxi Service."
I left Luang Prabang for Nong Khiaw by minivan, paying 180,000 kips. A big tuk-tuk taxi picked us up at the hotel at 8:40 AM, and we picked up more people along the way until we reached a small minivan station. Our "minivan" was *very* mini—we still managed to squeeze in 12 people, with 2 up front + the driver, even though there wasn’t really space for 2 full seats—more like 1.5! Luggage was strapped to the roof under a tarp for the trip. Scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we finally took off at 9:30. The ride took 4 hours and 15 minutes from station to station—roads were rough, sometimes unpaved, and always full of potholes. This route is mostly used by trucks registered in China. We passed the dam that now blocks boat traffic between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw. About 40 km from Nong Khiaw, we turned off the main road onto a smaller one, less crowded with trucks but still rough. At the Nong Khiaw bus station, a shared taxi was waiting to drop everyone off at their hotels. I walked to mine—the Nam Ou View Villa, about 600 meters from the station. Nice room with a great view of the river.
Nong Khiaw is easy to explore on foot. One unpaved road runs along the river, lined with hotels and restaurants with terraces, while a parallel paved road has little traffic and all the shops. I loved the vibe and tranquility of the town. There are plenty of guesthouses, especially on the other side of the bridge. Restaurants everywhere, all in a calm atmosphere. I hiked up to the highest viewpoint—there are several. The climb is supposed to take 1.5 hours, but it took me 2. Time to enjoy the nature and catch my breath! No real difficulty, just a *lot* of uphill. There’s a small toll at the start of the climb—I don’t remember the exact amount, but it wasn’t expensive. The view at the top is stunning—360°! Mornings are cloudy, midday is usually clear, and evenings are all about the sunset ☀️. The descent was tougher for me—guaranteed sore muscles!
I also walked along the Nam Ou toward Muang Ngoi. The road is quiet and unpaved but often narrow with no views. Small villages along the way. In town, you can rent canoes, and agencies offer day trips or multi-day excursions. There are shops, a bank, and 2 ATMs.
Departure for Muang Ngoi—a village only accessible by private or public boat. I took the 11:30 AM public boat (sold as 11 AM) for 70,000 kips. There were so many of us that two boats were needed, and we were still packed in! We left 40 minutes late because the ticket collector didn’t check anything, and one ticket was missing. Of course, everyone insisted they’d paid—which was probably true, given the general disorganization. The trip took 1 hour and 5 minutes, going upstream against the current. Gorgeous.
Arriving at Muang Ngoi’s tiny dock, hotel owners were waiting for their guests or offering rooms to those without reservations. I’d booked the Riverview Bungalows & GH. The room was a bit worn but comfortable, and the view was amazing!
Muang Ngoi has ONE recently paved main street—all other paths are red dirt and dusty, perfect for unguided day hikes. I *loved* this village. People live their lives without worrying much about tourists, who aren’t too numerous yet. There’s no bank or ATM, and dollars are accepted (even preferred) for transport and hotels. Watch the condition of your bills—the hotelier refused one with a tiny stain I hadn’t even noticed! There are travel agencies for excursions, small shops... I often ate at Gecko (Western food, I admit) and across the street at Vita, which serves a delicious local dish called *Suzy*—a curry-like specialty. From Muang Ngoi, there are plenty of easy hikes. The trails are simple to find and follow, except for those crossing rice fields. Maps.Me helped me stay on track.
If you don’t want to walk, there are very local transport options: modified tractors with platforms for passengers and luggage. I took an excursion to Sopchem, a small village 40 minutes away by boat. I paid $20 round-trip for two people on a private boat. The ride was stunning—the river cuts through mountains in this section. Sopchem is tiny but charming, especially for buying textiles. Every house has a loom out front and a display selling their work. I bought two scarves for 60,000 kips each without bargaining—it seemed like a steal. Back in Luang Prabang, I saw the same scarves in a fancy boutique for 55,000 kips each—9 or 10 times the price!!!!
I also tried the village laundry service—everywhere lists the price as 25,000 kips per kilo. I picked the closest one to my hotel and watched from my balcony as the woman washed my clothes in the river, then hung them on her fence all day in the dust! Turns out only hotels have washing machines. Better to postpone laundry or do it yourself—my clothes didn’t smell great afterward!
For the return to Luang Prabang, I splurged on a private transfer. An agency at the dock arranged it for $100. I took the public boat to Nong Khiaw, where a driver was waiting. His vehicle was a pickup truck, and the trip took 4 hours total to my hotel in the city center. I recommend this agency (Lattanavongsa Tour Adventure)—very professional. They also run a hotel (same name) that looked nice from the outside, though not riverfront.
In Luang Prabang, I did the Mekong sunset cruise. Departed at 4:30 PM with Sasa Sunset Cruise for 245,000 kips, including one drink and spring rolls. I was lucky to see a beautiful sunset—I don’t regret it. I also visited the tiny Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre—very interesting for learning about Laos’ ethnic groups and textile traditions, but *very* small. Of course, I visited the temples and wandered the alleys to admire the stunning houses. The sunset at Mount Phousi was nice, but *so* crowded! The night market is fun but not super interesting—vendors sell pretty much the same things you’ll find in daytime shops at the same prices. There are two food courts, one huge at the end of the market. I love the concept, but the quality of the stalls is debatable.
Luang Prabang The morning alms-giving ceremony for monks is called *Tak Bat*. This ritual has turned into a circus for Chinese tourists. I’d visited Luang Prabang 15 years ago and didn’t find the same serenity in the ceremony. In Luang Prabang, I exchanged euros at BFL BRED Bank (recommended in the *Routard* guide). Good rates and a smooth transaction. The employee spoke excellent French and offered me deals on the Sasa sunset cruise (with dinner) and a taxi to the airport. I took her up on the taxi—it was much cheaper. She explained that she works evenings at Sasa Sunset Cruise and the taxi driver is her husband.
Hope this gives you some practical tips for your next trip!
I left Luang Prabang for Nong Khiaw by minivan, paying 180,000 kips. A big tuk-tuk taxi picked us up at the hotel at 8:40 AM, and we picked up more people along the way until we reached a small minivan station. Our "minivan" was *very* mini—we still managed to squeeze in 12 people, with 2 up front + the driver, even though there wasn’t really space for 2 full seats—more like 1.5! Luggage was strapped to the roof under a tarp for the trip. Scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we finally took off at 9:30. The ride took 4 hours and 15 minutes from station to station—roads were rough, sometimes unpaved, and always full of potholes. This route is mostly used by trucks registered in China. We passed the dam that now blocks boat traffic between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw. About 40 km from Nong Khiaw, we turned off the main road onto a smaller one, less crowded with trucks but still rough. At the Nong Khiaw bus station, a shared taxi was waiting to drop everyone off at their hotels. I walked to mine—the Nam Ou View Villa, about 600 meters from the station. Nice room with a great view of the river.
Nong Khiaw is easy to explore on foot. One unpaved road runs along the river, lined with hotels and restaurants with terraces, while a parallel paved road has little traffic and all the shops. I loved the vibe and tranquility of the town. There are plenty of guesthouses, especially on the other side of the bridge. Restaurants everywhere, all in a calm atmosphere. I hiked up to the highest viewpoint—there are several. The climb is supposed to take 1.5 hours, but it took me 2. Time to enjoy the nature and catch my breath! No real difficulty, just a *lot* of uphill. There’s a small toll at the start of the climb—I don’t remember the exact amount, but it wasn’t expensive. The view at the top is stunning—360°! Mornings are cloudy, midday is usually clear, and evenings are all about the sunset ☀️. The descent was tougher for me—guaranteed sore muscles!
I also walked along the Nam Ou toward Muang Ngoi. The road is quiet and unpaved but often narrow with no views. Small villages along the way. In town, you can rent canoes, and agencies offer day trips or multi-day excursions. There are shops, a bank, and 2 ATMs.
Departure for Muang Ngoi—a village only accessible by private or public boat. I took the 11:30 AM public boat (sold as 11 AM) for 70,000 kips. There were so many of us that two boats were needed, and we were still packed in! We left 40 minutes late because the ticket collector didn’t check anything, and one ticket was missing. Of course, everyone insisted they’d paid—which was probably true, given the general disorganization. The trip took 1 hour and 5 minutes, going upstream against the current. Gorgeous.
Arriving at Muang Ngoi’s tiny dock, hotel owners were waiting for their guests or offering rooms to those without reservations. I’d booked the Riverview Bungalows & GH. The room was a bit worn but comfortable, and the view was amazing!
Muang Ngoi has ONE recently paved main street—all other paths are red dirt and dusty, perfect for unguided day hikes. I *loved* this village. People live their lives without worrying much about tourists, who aren’t too numerous yet. There’s no bank or ATM, and dollars are accepted (even preferred) for transport and hotels. Watch the condition of your bills—the hotelier refused one with a tiny stain I hadn’t even noticed! There are travel agencies for excursions, small shops... I often ate at Gecko (Western food, I admit) and across the street at Vita, which serves a delicious local dish called *Suzy*—a curry-like specialty. From Muang Ngoi, there are plenty of easy hikes. The trails are simple to find and follow, except for those crossing rice fields. Maps.Me helped me stay on track.
If you don’t want to walk, there are very local transport options: modified tractors with platforms for passengers and luggage. I took an excursion to Sopchem, a small village 40 minutes away by boat. I paid $20 round-trip for two people on a private boat. The ride was stunning—the river cuts through mountains in this section. Sopchem is tiny but charming, especially for buying textiles. Every house has a loom out front and a display selling their work. I bought two scarves for 60,000 kips each without bargaining—it seemed like a steal. Back in Luang Prabang, I saw the same scarves in a fancy boutique for 55,000 kips each—9 or 10 times the price!!!!
I also tried the village laundry service—everywhere lists the price as 25,000 kips per kilo. I picked the closest one to my hotel and watched from my balcony as the woman washed my clothes in the river, then hung them on her fence all day in the dust! Turns out only hotels have washing machines. Better to postpone laundry or do it yourself—my clothes didn’t smell great afterward!
For the return to Luang Prabang, I splurged on a private transfer. An agency at the dock arranged it for $100. I took the public boat to Nong Khiaw, where a driver was waiting. His vehicle was a pickup truck, and the trip took 4 hours total to my hotel in the city center. I recommend this agency (Lattanavongsa Tour Adventure)—very professional. They also run a hotel (same name) that looked nice from the outside, though not riverfront.
In Luang Prabang, I did the Mekong sunset cruise. Departed at 4:30 PM with Sasa Sunset Cruise for 245,000 kips, including one drink and spring rolls. I was lucky to see a beautiful sunset—I don’t regret it. I also visited the tiny Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre—very interesting for learning about Laos’ ethnic groups and textile traditions, but *very* small. Of course, I visited the temples and wandered the alleys to admire the stunning houses. The sunset at Mount Phousi was nice, but *so* crowded! The night market is fun but not super interesting—vendors sell pretty much the same things you’ll find in daytime shops at the same prices. There are two food courts, one huge at the end of the market. I love the concept, but the quality of the stalls is debatable.
Luang Prabang The morning alms-giving ceremony for monks is called *Tak Bat*. This ritual has turned into a circus for Chinese tourists. I’d visited Luang Prabang 15 years ago and didn’t find the same serenity in the ceremony. In Luang Prabang, I exchanged euros at BFL BRED Bank (recommended in the *Routard* guide). Good rates and a smooth transaction. The employee spoke excellent French and offered me deals on the Sasa sunset cruise (with dinner) and a taxi to the airport. I took her up on the taxi—it was much cheaper. She explained that she works evenings at Sasa Sunset Cruise and the taxi driver is her husband.
Hope this gives you some practical tips for your next trip!
Train from Bangkok (Thailand) to Vientiane (Laos)
Hi there,
I’m heading to Laos at the end of the year. We’ll be landing in Bangkok, and from there, we’d like to hop straight on a train to Vientiane. I think the line exists now. I’m guessing it’s from the new station, which I don’t know yet. Can anyone tell me about it, as well as the visa for Laos if I take this mode of transport?
Thanks
Paying for a visa by credit card in Laos
Hi,
I’ve read on various semi-official websites that you can pay for the 30-day visa at the counter at the airport by credit card.
Has anyone arrived in Laos recently (I’ll be landing in Luang Prabang) and can confirm this?
If not, which currencies are accepted?
Thanks in advance.
Alain
Motorcycle Travel Companion for Southeast Asia from December 2024 to May 2025
Hello,
I’ve been retired since 2018 and travel solo every winter. But after my sons pointed out: “riding alone through Laos on a bike! Safety-wise, there’s room for improvement.” I’m getting older and need to be more careful. That’s the reason for this post. The idea is to look out for each other if needed, while still keeping our independence and privacy. I’ll be in Laos starting December 6th, then probably Thailand in January since I want to do some diving. After that, it’s all improvisation—nothing’s set in stone. If the destination and the concept interest you, well, we can just chat about it.
A Month in Laos and Cambodia
Hello everyone,
At the start of November, a bit of rest before winter will be perfect to kick off this travel journal. There aren’t many recent journals about this part of the world, so I’ll take the plunge—my way of celebrating the (unexpected) return of this forum, which has been such a big part of my life for over 15 years.
So, back to Asia at the end of 2023. After Myanmar in 2015 and Vietnam in 2018, we’ve chosen Laos this time. And when talking with friends (you know how it is—everyone asks, "So, where are you going this year?"), a couple of friends asked to join us ("You see, my wife dreams of a trip to Asia, and I dream of traveling like you, independently"). We’ve spent a week with them (and other friends) in Portugal, so we know they’re easygoing and flexible. They’ll only be with us after Christmas (due to lots of grandkids), so deal—we’re bringing them along! A new experience for us.
A new experience that’ll start with tweaking the itinerary. Originally, I planned to stay a month in Laos, but what could be more magical for my friend’s wife than discovering Asia by way of Angkor! Plus, our two daughters asked for some beach time at the end of the trip! So, it’ll be Laos and Cambodia—neither of which we’ve visited before, so no complaints there.
The route will be pretty classic, though a bit scattered to fit our dates and wishes. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP) to take some time to acclimate, then a few days in the northern Laos mountains, Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi. Back to LP for a direct flight to Pakse. Yes, I know—so many amazing places we’ll miss along the way, but as you know, choosing means letting go... From Pakse, I’m leaving a few days open (no bookings), but I’m eyeing Champassak and the 4,000 Islands. That’s where Mariel and Naty (our friends!) will join us on December 30th. I’ve tentatively added the Bolaven Plateau loop to the plan (still no bookings). Their Laos adventure will be short—by January 3rd, we’ll cross the border into Cambodia, heading straight to Siem Reap for 5 days. Then, I’ll fulfill my promise with a magical detour to Koh Rong Sanloem via a night bus (a must-do in Asia!). On to Phnom Penh for 2 days—where our trip ends, while Mariel and Naty will stop in Bangkok for 3 days before flying home.
So, fasten your seatbelts, flight attendants at the doors, and sorry for the long intro—here we go on this Asian adventure!
At the start of November, a bit of rest before winter will be perfect to kick off this travel journal. There aren’t many recent journals about this part of the world, so I’ll take the plunge—my way of celebrating the (unexpected) return of this forum, which has been such a big part of my life for over 15 years.
So, back to Asia at the end of 2023. After Myanmar in 2015 and Vietnam in 2018, we’ve chosen Laos this time. And when talking with friends (you know how it is—everyone asks, "So, where are you going this year?"), a couple of friends asked to join us ("You see, my wife dreams of a trip to Asia, and I dream of traveling like you, independently"). We’ve spent a week with them (and other friends) in Portugal, so we know they’re easygoing and flexible. They’ll only be with us after Christmas (due to lots of grandkids), so deal—we’re bringing them along! A new experience for us.
A new experience that’ll start with tweaking the itinerary. Originally, I planned to stay a month in Laos, but what could be more magical for my friend’s wife than discovering Asia by way of Angkor! Plus, our two daughters asked for some beach time at the end of the trip! So, it’ll be Laos and Cambodia—neither of which we’ve visited before, so no complaints there.
The route will be pretty classic, though a bit scattered to fit our dates and wishes. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP) to take some time to acclimate, then a few days in the northern Laos mountains, Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi. Back to LP for a direct flight to Pakse. Yes, I know—so many amazing places we’ll miss along the way, but as you know, choosing means letting go... From Pakse, I’m leaving a few days open (no bookings), but I’m eyeing Champassak and the 4,000 Islands. That’s where Mariel and Naty (our friends!) will join us on December 30th. I’ve tentatively added the Bolaven Plateau loop to the plan (still no bookings). Their Laos adventure will be short—by January 3rd, we’ll cross the border into Cambodia, heading straight to Siem Reap for 5 days. Then, I’ll fulfill my promise with a magical detour to Koh Rong Sanloem via a night bus (a must-do in Asia!). On to Phnom Penh for 2 days—where our trip ends, while Mariel and Naty will stop in Bangkok for 3 days before flying home.
So, fasten your seatbelts, flight attendants at the doors, and sorry for the long intro—here we go on this Asian adventure!
Laos and Cambodia from late December to early February
Hi there,
I’ll be in Laos and then Cambodia from mid-to-late December until early February.
I haven’t been to Laos before, but I already know Cambodia.
I plan to arrive via northern Thailand and leave from Bangkok (it’s a question of flight prices).
I’m used to traveling by local transport and staying in simple guesthouses, with internal flights if needed. Sightseeing, exploring, and connecting with locals are my priorities.
If anyone’s interested in joining for part or all of this trip, we can chat and discuss. I only have a rough itinerary so far.
See you soon,
Francoise
Laos and Cambodia after the floods from January - February 2025
Does it seem feasible and reasonable to travel to Laos (or Cambodia) as early as January or February 2025?
I don’t have any precise information about the damage these countries have suffered.
Documentary "The Forgotten Treasure of the Khmer Civilization"
A fascinating documentary about a Khmer treasure discovered in the Savannakhet region. The documentary places this discovery within the cultural environment of the Khmer era, from Wat Phu (Champassak - Laos) to Angkor (Cambodia).
https://www.arte.tv/fr/videos/116856-000-A/laos-le-tresor-oublie-de-la-civilisation-khmere/
Taking a boat down the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Vientiane
Hi there, We’re in Laos in March 2025,
does anyone know if it’s possible to travel down the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Vientiane?
Can you find a private boat? How long does it take?
Thanks for your replies_
From Northern Laos to Angkor Temples – Looking for Travel Companions for February 2025
Who’s up for an amazing trip alternating karst landscapes, jungle, rice terraces, plains, easy hikes, and a paradise island off Sihanoukville? We’ll arrive via Chiang Rai in northern Thailand, cross the border, take a boat on the Mekong, and travel by road to discover mountain tribes, Luang Prabang and its wonders, then hop on an ultra-fast TGV train to Vientiane. From there, a flight to Siem Reap for the Angkor temples, floating villages on Tonlé Sap Lake, Battambang, and mountain jungle before reaching Phnom Penh. Finally, a road trip to Sihanoukville to embark on a 3-day paradise getaway before flying back to Paris from Phnom Penh.
Mix of 3-star accommodations and resorts. February–March 2025
Dare to join this exceptional journey I’ve planned with an adventure travel agency—small groups and tailor-made! My co-traveler just dropped out. See you soon! Gigi
Mix of 3-star accommodations and resorts. February–March 2025
Dare to join this exceptional journey I’ve planned with an adventure travel agency—small groups and tailor-made! My co-traveler just dropped out. See you soon! Gigi
22-year-old man looking for a travel companion for Laos in January 2025
Hi there, I’d like to travel to Laos in January and I’m looking for someone to join me. I want to do some long hikes and enjoy the local landscapes and cultures, but I’m a bit nervous about going alone. I’m a 22-year-old guy, easygoing and friendly.
Laos et Birmanie au jour le jour (fin 2018-début 2019) English translation pending
Bonjour,
Il y a plus d'un an maintenant, j'ai passé 10 semaines en Asie du Est, passant brièvement en Thaïlande ainsi qu'au Cambodge, pour passer 1 mois au Laos puis 4 semaines en Birmanie. Pendant ce voyage, j'ai tenu un carnet de voyage au quotidien, et j'ai enfin pris le temps de tout saisir sur mon blog, le confinement aura au moins servi à cela !
J’y ai inséré des photos correspondant au moment décrit pour rendre la lecture plus plaisante, et mieux s’immerger ! J’essaie aussi de donner des informations concrètes, comme le prix des chambres, d’indiquer ce que j’ai mangé et combien j’ai payé le plat, le prix des tickets de transports, etc… Histoire de faire de ce journal de voyage quelque chose de vivant. En espérant qu’il soit agréable à lire.
Alors voilà les liens :
Présentation Arrivée en Thaïlande Cambodge Sud Laos Nord Laos Birmanie – première partie Birmanie – deuxième partie Thaïlande : fin du voyage
Bonne lecture, et bon voyage virtuel !
Il y a plus d'un an maintenant, j'ai passé 10 semaines en Asie du Est, passant brièvement en Thaïlande ainsi qu'au Cambodge, pour passer 1 mois au Laos puis 4 semaines en Birmanie. Pendant ce voyage, j'ai tenu un carnet de voyage au quotidien, et j'ai enfin pris le temps de tout saisir sur mon blog, le confinement aura au moins servi à cela !
J’y ai inséré des photos correspondant au moment décrit pour rendre la lecture plus plaisante, et mieux s’immerger ! J’essaie aussi de donner des informations concrètes, comme le prix des chambres, d’indiquer ce que j’ai mangé et combien j’ai payé le plat, le prix des tickets de transports, etc… Histoire de faire de ce journal de voyage quelque chose de vivant. En espérant qu’il soit agréable à lire.
Alors voilà les liens :
Présentation Arrivée en Thaïlande Cambodge Sud Laos Nord Laos Birmanie – première partie Birmanie – deuxième partie Thaïlande : fin du voyage
Bonne lecture, et bon voyage virtuel !
Recette du Laap kai, incontournable au Laos! English translation pending
Impossible de parler de tradition culinaire et de cuisine au Laos sans évoquer le Laap Kaï ! On vous en proposera dans tous les restaurants laotiens.
Il existe différentes variétés de Laap : Laap Kai au poulet, Laap Sinh à la viande, Laap Pet au canard, Laap Pa au poisson...
Le Laap pourrait se traduire par "salade à la viande (ou au poisson) et aux herbes".
C'est un plat complet, sain et économique particulièrement savoureux à cuisiner de préférence aux beaux jours ! Recette à retrouver sur mon blog https://www.heleneetlacledeschamps.fr/
C'est un plat complet, sain et économique particulièrement savoureux à cuisiner de préférence aux beaux jours ! Recette à retrouver sur mon blog https://www.heleneetlacledeschamps.fr/
Pont ferroviaire du "TGV chinois" sur le Mékong au nord de Luang Prabang English translation pending
Bonjour,
Le pont du TGV" chinois sur le Mékong au Nord de Luang Phrabang est terminé
depuis le 24/04.
Voir forum de " GT-Rider".
Heureux Lionel?
Sok dee, Lung.
Qu'en est-il de la situation des Français restés au Laos? English translation pending
Bonjour ! Mon équipière et moi avons pu bénéficier du rapatriement organisé par l'ambassade du Laos le 2 avril dernier, mais nous nous interrogeons sur le devenir de nos compatriotes restés au Laos, volontairement ou non : santé, hébergement, restauration, comportement de la population locale, difficultés de rapatriement le cas échéant pour ceux qui le souhaitent...
Merci pour vos retours et bon courage !
Acheter au Laos du Micropur ou similaire pour purifier l'eau English translation pending
Salut tout le monde !
Je suis à Vientiane et je comptais acheter de la micropur ou des comprimés pour purifier l'eau dans l'optique d'aller ensuite faire un trek dans le nord du Laos mais je n'arrive pas à en trouver (j'ai essayé plusieurs pharmacies dont une assez grande, mais niet)
Quelqu'un saurait où je pourrai en trouver ? Ou un truc similaire (pour pouvoir boire l'eau des cours d'eau/sources en montagne en cas d'urgence)
Merci
Je suis à Vientiane et je comptais acheter de la micropur ou des comprimés pour purifier l'eau dans l'optique d'aller ensuite faire un trek dans le nord du Laos mais je n'arrive pas à en trouver (j'ai essayé plusieurs pharmacies dont une assez grande, mais niet)
Quelqu'un saurait où je pourrai en trouver ? Ou un truc similaire (pour pouvoir boire l'eau des cours d'eau/sources en montagne en cas d'urgence)
Merci
Location scooter pour 6 jours à Luang Prabang English translation pending
Bonsoir,
Je serai au Laos (en individuel) fin de semaine prochaine.
Je cherche une bonne adresse pour louer un scooter pour 6 jours à Luang Prabang pour éviter de se faire arnaquer (notamment le vol de celui-ci par le loueur lui-même)
Billet Air China modifié et annulation de prestations voyage pour le Laos English translation pending
Bonjour.
Comme beaucoup de personne mon billet direction le Laos avec escale à Pékin a été modifié. Bien entendu les horaires aller et retour ne correspondent plus, puisque j'ai pris les billets de trains en France en conséquence. De plus, nous avons pris des billets d'avion Bangkok/Vang Vieng car étant moins cher pour aller au Laos, avec la compagnie air Laos.
Au final: Air China annonce le remboursement des billets de SA compagnie, mais l'agence Carrefour voyage est incapable de nous donner des informations pour l'instant.
On ne sait pas si les billets d'avions acheté pour aller au laos avec Air Laos seront remboursés. Des personnes dans ce cas? Une idée sur le remboursement des billets qui ne sont pas de la compagnie Air China? Sans parler des bus réservés au laos ect..
C'est certainement plus raisonnable d'annuler, mais les informations concernant les remboursements sont difficiles à obtenir de l'agence Carrefour Voyage.
Comme beaucoup de personne mon billet direction le Laos avec escale à Pékin a été modifié. Bien entendu les horaires aller et retour ne correspondent plus, puisque j'ai pris les billets de trains en France en conséquence. De plus, nous avons pris des billets d'avion Bangkok/Vang Vieng car étant moins cher pour aller au Laos, avec la compagnie air Laos.
Au final: Air China annonce le remboursement des billets de SA compagnie, mais l'agence Carrefour voyage est incapable de nous donner des informations pour l'instant.
On ne sait pas si les billets d'avions acheté pour aller au laos avec Air Laos seront remboursés. Des personnes dans ce cas? Une idée sur le remboursement des billets qui ne sont pas de la compagnie Air China? Sans parler des bus réservés au laos ect..
C'est certainement plus raisonnable d'annuler, mais les informations concernant les remboursements sont difficiles à obtenir de l'agence Carrefour Voyage.
Aller à Nong Kwiau et Muang Ngoi si on ne randonne pas? (Laos) English translation pending
Bonjour à tous nous partons en février pour une bonne semaine au Laos
Nous descendrons le Mékong en slow boat de Huay Xai à Luang Prabang.
Suite à une opération du pied nous ne pouvons pas faire de rando .Est il alors judicieux de prévoir Nong Kwiau et Muang Ngoi à notre itinéraire ?
Merci pour vos conseils
Itinéraire état des routes, et trajets de Luang Prabang à Paksé en voiture English translation pending
Nous serons au Laos de mi-juillet à mi-août. Nous avons l'habitude de louer une voiture et de conduire à l'étranger (Indonésie, Bali, Thaïlande, Namibie, Botswana, Mexique, Guatemala...) mais pour ce voyage-ci, nous ne trouvons que très peu d'informations sur la conduite au Laos (mis à part que c'est dangereux et qu'un chauffeur c'est mieux ;O). Nous souhaiterions savoir à quoi ressemble l'itinéraire Luang Prabang-Pakse en voiture : état des routes, type de routes, endroit où dormir sur le trajet, possibilité de faire le plein d'essence et surtout y a-t-il un intérêt à le faire (vie villageoise, paysages...).
Merci à ceux qui ont expérimenté ce trajet en voiture de m'orienter.
Merci à ceux qui ont expérimenté ce trajet en voiture de m'orienter.
Choix cornélien entre Laos et Cambodge en mars English translation pending
Bonjour,
Je vous sollicite car je vais partir en Thaïlande en mars, et j'aurais un peu de temps vers mi-mars/fin mars et j'hésite à visiter alors entre le Laos et le Cambodge.
C'est surtout au niveau de la sécheresse, on m'a dit qu'elle serait très prononcée à cette période et plus au Laos.
Des personnes peuvent-elles m'éclairer pendant cette période ?
Je vous sollicite car je vais partir en Thaïlande en mars, et j'aurais un peu de temps vers mi-mars/fin mars et j'hésite à visiter alors entre le Laos et le Cambodge.
C'est surtout au niveau de la sécheresse, on m'a dit qu'elle serait très prononcée à cette période et plus au Laos.
Des personnes peuvent-elles m'éclairer pendant cette période ?
Bus/minivans fiables pour le Laos (Luang Prabang - Vang Vieng) English translation pending
Bonjour
Je recherche des compagnies qui assurent le trajet Luang Prabang Van Vieng et qui sont fiables, voire un trajet de nuit. Sinon, qui recommande d'aller directement à Vientiane sans passer par Van Vieng? Merci pour votre aide Michèle
Je recherche des compagnies qui assurent le trajet Luang Prabang Van Vieng et qui sont fiables, voire un trajet de nuit. Sinon, qui recommande d'aller directement à Vientiane sans passer par Van Vieng? Merci pour votre aide Michèle
Boucle en itinérance à vélo autour de Luang Prabang? English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
Actuellement à Vientiane au Laos, nous prévoyons de monter sur Luang Prabang d'ici quelques jours. Là-bas nous souhaiterions réaliser une boucle en itinérance à vélo avec départ et retour sur LP. Malheureusement je ne trouve que peu d'infos sur ce type de projet. Auriez-vous des propositions d'itinéraires (Compter 60km/jour) ? Connaissez-vous un bon loueur sur LP ?
Je précise que nous ne souhaitons pas faire de boucle en scooter. Nous souhaitons changer de mode de transport.
Merci de votre aide !
Actuellement à Vientiane au Laos, nous prévoyons de monter sur Luang Prabang d'ici quelques jours. Là-bas nous souhaiterions réaliser une boucle en itinérance à vélo avec départ et retour sur LP. Malheureusement je ne trouve que peu d'infos sur ce type de projet. Auriez-vous des propositions d'itinéraires (Compter 60km/jour) ? Connaissez-vous un bon loueur sur LP ?
Je précise que nous ne souhaitons pas faire de boucle en scooter. Nous souhaitons changer de mode de transport.
Merci de votre aide !
Quel itinéraire au Laos en 9 jours, le nord ou le sud? English translation pending
Bonjour à tous
Je suis un peu perdue car je ne sais que faire ! Nous partirons de Bangkok .Nous serons en février pour 9 j au Laos et après avoir fait des recherches pour notre itinéraire je ne suis toujours pas plus éclairée !(Nous n'orientons pas notre voyage vers des trecks suite à une opération du pied de mon mari)
Que choisir :Nord ou Sud ou les 2?
J 'espère que vous pourrez m'aider grâce à vos expériences et coups de coeur
Merci pour vos réponses
En ce 31 Décembre , J en profite pour souhaiter à tous une année pleine de voyages
La boucle de Thakhek SANS moto (Laos) English translation pending
Bonjour,
Nombreux sont ceux qui comme nous se demandent comment parcourir la boucle de Thakhek sans moto.
Voici donc notre retour d'expérience avec les transports locaux.
Bien sûr c'est impossible de voir toutes les grottes, mais de toute façon les "looper" avec qui nous avons discuté ne visitaient qu'un ou 2 sites par jour en général. Il faut donc faire des choix 😜
On n'était pas pressés donc on a passé plus de temps que la majorité ; ce qui aide quand on n'a pas de moyen propre de locomotion.
J1: Thakhek- Thallang Nous avons pris un songthaew à la gare routière du km2 (en ville) Départ 8h (8h30 en réalité) arrivée un peu avant 11h, après avoir fait le plein de poissons en route. 50 000 kip/p Nous avons logé au Phosy Gh. Ils ne proposaient pas de tour en bateau. Un peu plus loin nous avons assisté à un beau coucher de soleil.
J3: Thallang- cool pool Vers 11h un songthaew nous a amené à Lak Sao (25kK/p) De Lak Sao un autre songthaew vers Nahin nous a laissé à l'embranchement de Ban Napavan pour 15kK/p. Nous avons marché environ 4km pour aller à cool pool. Endroit vraiment très agréable. Entrée 20kk/p Nous avons dormi en homestay à ban Napavan (60kK/p nuit repas dej)
J4: Napavan- Kong Lor Bus jusqu'à Nahin 20kk/p (vers 9h) Songthaew jusqu'à Kong Lor 25kk/p Nous avons dormi au Kong Lor cave gh pour 70kk.
A Kong Lor il y a des balades sympa à faire. Il y a un topo guide au bureau touristique près de l'embarcadère, mais les distances annoncées sont complètement fausses. Baignades dans la rivière sympa à proximité de la grotte. Il y a possibilité de louer des vtt. Nous avons marché 5km pour aller jusqu'au Spring river resort car on voulait faire du kayak, mais le "lagoon" dont ils se targuent ne nous a pas charmé et les prix étaient assez élevés pour notre budget (50kk/p juste devant l'hôtel et 20$ sur la rivière...)
De Kong Lor il est possible de rejoindre directement thakaek.
J6 Kong Lor- Natan Bateau 65kk/p Homestay Natan 50kk/p (nuit, repas, petit-déjeuner) Il y a des locations de vtt au débarcadère de Natan. Possibilité de faire un parcours balisé dans les villages alentours.
Autre option pour dormir, il y a une autre homestay à Phoun kham (direction natone) 50kk/p, environ 1,5 km du débarcadère.
J7 Natan- Nakaī Depart 8h 50kk/p attention la poussière !
Possibilité de correspondance pour Thakhek 35kk/p Nous avons passé la nuit à Nakaī dans l'espoir de profiter du lac ou d'atteindre l'orchid path. Au nakai resort ils ne proposaient rien de tout ça actuellement 😕 Au sunset resort ils proposaient un tour en bateau pour 400kk, mais ils ne parlaient pas bien anglais et on n'a pas compris à quoi ça correspondait.
Depuis Thakhek possibilité de louer un vtt pour aller à Bouddha cave par exemple.
C'est pas toujours aisé de se déplacer mais on était quand même contents d'avoir fait le tour à notre sauce.
J1: Thakhek- Thallang Nous avons pris un songthaew à la gare routière du km2 (en ville) Départ 8h (8h30 en réalité) arrivée un peu avant 11h, après avoir fait le plein de poissons en route. 50 000 kip/p Nous avons logé au Phosy Gh. Ils ne proposaient pas de tour en bateau. Un peu plus loin nous avons assisté à un beau coucher de soleil.
J3: Thallang- cool pool Vers 11h un songthaew nous a amené à Lak Sao (25kK/p) De Lak Sao un autre songthaew vers Nahin nous a laissé à l'embranchement de Ban Napavan pour 15kK/p. Nous avons marché environ 4km pour aller à cool pool. Endroit vraiment très agréable. Entrée 20kk/p Nous avons dormi en homestay à ban Napavan (60kK/p nuit repas dej)
J4: Napavan- Kong Lor Bus jusqu'à Nahin 20kk/p (vers 9h) Songthaew jusqu'à Kong Lor 25kk/p Nous avons dormi au Kong Lor cave gh pour 70kk.
A Kong Lor il y a des balades sympa à faire. Il y a un topo guide au bureau touristique près de l'embarcadère, mais les distances annoncées sont complètement fausses. Baignades dans la rivière sympa à proximité de la grotte. Il y a possibilité de louer des vtt. Nous avons marché 5km pour aller jusqu'au Spring river resort car on voulait faire du kayak, mais le "lagoon" dont ils se targuent ne nous a pas charmé et les prix étaient assez élevés pour notre budget (50kk/p juste devant l'hôtel et 20$ sur la rivière...)
De Kong Lor il est possible de rejoindre directement thakaek.
J6 Kong Lor- Natan Bateau 65kk/p Homestay Natan 50kk/p (nuit, repas, petit-déjeuner) Il y a des locations de vtt au débarcadère de Natan. Possibilité de faire un parcours balisé dans les villages alentours.
Autre option pour dormir, il y a une autre homestay à Phoun kham (direction natone) 50kk/p, environ 1,5 km du débarcadère.
J7 Natan- Nakaī Depart 8h 50kk/p attention la poussière !
Possibilité de correspondance pour Thakhek 35kk/p Nous avons passé la nuit à Nakaī dans l'espoir de profiter du lac ou d'atteindre l'orchid path. Au nakai resort ils ne proposaient rien de tout ça actuellement 😕 Au sunset resort ils proposaient un tour en bateau pour 400kk, mais ils ne parlaient pas bien anglais et on n'a pas compris à quoi ça correspondait.
Depuis Thakhek possibilité de louer un vtt pour aller à Bouddha cave par exemple.
C'est pas toujours aisé de se déplacer mais on était quand même contents d'avoir fait le tour à notre sauce.
Obtenir un e-Visa pour le Laos via le site officiel English translation pending
bonjour à tous et à toutes
je me permets de vous informer d'une arnaque concernant un site de demande de evisa (visa électronique) pour le laos et la solution pour ne pas se faire avoir.
si vous allez par mégarde sur ce site qui parait tout a fait officiel : https://www.laosevisa.com/fr/ vous allez payer 86 euros pour un visa touristique au laos, alors que le prix actuel est de 42 euros et quelques cents
ci dessous je vous explique comment faire pour recevoir votre e visa via le site officiel du gouvernement Laotien
taper : https://laoevisa.gov.la/index cliquer sur onglet "evisa fee" une page apparait :eVisa fee calculator sélectionner france dans la liste le prix apparait en us dollars soit 45 us cliquer sur apply now une page apparait : SECURITY VERIFICATION tapez votre e mail et le code de securité demandé en dessous puis cliquez sur submit une page apparait : vérification ouvrez votre messagerie dans une nouvelle fenetre pour récuperer le code pin à 4 chiffres que le site vous a envoyé. retournez sur la page vérification et tapez les 4 chiffres dans les cases correspondantes une nouvelle page s'ouvre / personnal information il vous faut telecharger une photo type photo passeport de vous ( maximum 2 mo ) cliquez sur upload puis browse file, et sélectionnez votre photo jpg sur votre ordinateur votre photo apparait 2x sur l'ecran/à gauche vous pouvez ajuster le cadrage si necessaire cliquez sur "yes upload" cliquez ensuite sur upload pour l'image de votre passeport, puis browse file, et sélectionnez votre image passeport.jpg sur votre ordinateur (attention il faut que la photo de votre passeport contienne les 2 pages, celle ou vous avez votre visage et celle au dessus ou apparait votre signature votre photo apparait 2x sur l'ecran/à gauche vous pouvez ajuster le cadrage si necessaire cliquez sur "yes upload" en dessous remplir les cases comme ceci surname : votre nom de famille given names : vos prenoms tels que sur votre passeport gender : male ou female (homme ou femme) date of birth : date de naissance country of birth :pays de naissance (tapez fr dans la case alors france apparait de suite) telephone : votre mobile ou fixe occupation : votre metier (en anglais c'est preferable) residential adress : votre adresse permanente en france stat/province : votre département (attention ne pas mettre de - entre : par exemple bas-rhin) country of citizenship : (tapez fr dans la case alors france apparait de suite) passport details passport n° : votre numéro de passeport (2 chiffres suivis de 2 lettres puis 5 chiffres) date of issue : deate de delivrance expiry date: date d'expiration (votre passeport doit avoir une validité de 6 mois minimum supplémentaire apres votre arrivée au laos) country of passport : france travel details : visa type : tourist port of entry : choisissez votre arrivée au laos, soit par avion (vientiane/paksé/luang prabang) soit terrestre via thailande/ viantiane ou savannaket INTENDED DATE OF ENTRY (date d'entrée dans le pays ) indiquez la date prévue de votre arrivée au laos vehicle ( moyen de locomotion a l'arrivée ) : indiquez aircraft si vous arrivez par avion, bus ou car si passage par frontiere terrestre travel details suite : purpose of visit : choisissez travel adress during visit : adresse durant votre visite : si vous n'avez pas d'hotel reservé, cherchez un hotel situé dans votre ville d'arrivée via google map par exemple ou booking et tapez le nom et l'adresse de l'hotel next destination : prochaine destination : c facultatif mais vous pouvez ecrire le pays ou ville ou vous irez apres le laos cochez la case en fin de page : I agree to the Terms and Conditions vous arrivez sur une page indiquant votre demande (verifiez bien ce que vous avez indiqué) puis vous pouvez ensuite rajouter une autre demande pour une perosnne qui vous accompagne éventuellement en remplissant a nouveau une nouvelle demande il ne vous reste alors qu'a payer selon votre cartebleue (clic sur le logo de cb pour choisir visa matercard etc) et aussi un justificatif de paiement (vérifiez bien le code postal de votre domicile sur cette page vous recevez alors une confirmation via votre email vous indiquant que tout est ok et qu'au bout de 3 jours vous recevrez le visa par votre boite e mail.
cordialement christophe thomas
si vous allez par mégarde sur ce site qui parait tout a fait officiel : https://www.laosevisa.com/fr/ vous allez payer 86 euros pour un visa touristique au laos, alors que le prix actuel est de 42 euros et quelques cents
ci dessous je vous explique comment faire pour recevoir votre e visa via le site officiel du gouvernement Laotien
taper : https://laoevisa.gov.la/index cliquer sur onglet "evisa fee" une page apparait :eVisa fee calculator sélectionner france dans la liste le prix apparait en us dollars soit 45 us cliquer sur apply now une page apparait : SECURITY VERIFICATION tapez votre e mail et le code de securité demandé en dessous puis cliquez sur submit une page apparait : vérification ouvrez votre messagerie dans une nouvelle fenetre pour récuperer le code pin à 4 chiffres que le site vous a envoyé. retournez sur la page vérification et tapez les 4 chiffres dans les cases correspondantes une nouvelle page s'ouvre / personnal information il vous faut telecharger une photo type photo passeport de vous ( maximum 2 mo ) cliquez sur upload puis browse file, et sélectionnez votre photo jpg sur votre ordinateur votre photo apparait 2x sur l'ecran/à gauche vous pouvez ajuster le cadrage si necessaire cliquez sur "yes upload" cliquez ensuite sur upload pour l'image de votre passeport, puis browse file, et sélectionnez votre image passeport.jpg sur votre ordinateur (attention il faut que la photo de votre passeport contienne les 2 pages, celle ou vous avez votre visage et celle au dessus ou apparait votre signature votre photo apparait 2x sur l'ecran/à gauche vous pouvez ajuster le cadrage si necessaire cliquez sur "yes upload" en dessous remplir les cases comme ceci surname : votre nom de famille given names : vos prenoms tels que sur votre passeport gender : male ou female (homme ou femme) date of birth : date de naissance country of birth :pays de naissance (tapez fr dans la case alors france apparait de suite) telephone : votre mobile ou fixe occupation : votre metier (en anglais c'est preferable) residential adress : votre adresse permanente en france stat/province : votre département (attention ne pas mettre de - entre : par exemple bas-rhin) country of citizenship : (tapez fr dans la case alors france apparait de suite) passport details passport n° : votre numéro de passeport (2 chiffres suivis de 2 lettres puis 5 chiffres) date of issue : deate de delivrance expiry date: date d'expiration (votre passeport doit avoir une validité de 6 mois minimum supplémentaire apres votre arrivée au laos) country of passport : france travel details : visa type : tourist port of entry : choisissez votre arrivée au laos, soit par avion (vientiane/paksé/luang prabang) soit terrestre via thailande/ viantiane ou savannaket INTENDED DATE OF ENTRY (date d'entrée dans le pays ) indiquez la date prévue de votre arrivée au laos vehicle ( moyen de locomotion a l'arrivée ) : indiquez aircraft si vous arrivez par avion, bus ou car si passage par frontiere terrestre travel details suite : purpose of visit : choisissez travel adress during visit : adresse durant votre visite : si vous n'avez pas d'hotel reservé, cherchez un hotel situé dans votre ville d'arrivée via google map par exemple ou booking et tapez le nom et l'adresse de l'hotel next destination : prochaine destination : c facultatif mais vous pouvez ecrire le pays ou ville ou vous irez apres le laos cochez la case en fin de page : I agree to the Terms and Conditions vous arrivez sur une page indiquant votre demande (verifiez bien ce que vous avez indiqué) puis vous pouvez ensuite rajouter une autre demande pour une perosnne qui vous accompagne éventuellement en remplissant a nouveau une nouvelle demande il ne vous reste alors qu'a payer selon votre cartebleue (clic sur le logo de cb pour choisir visa matercard etc) et aussi un justificatif de paiement (vérifiez bien le code postal de votre domicile sur cette page vous recevez alors une confirmation via votre email vous indiquant que tout est ok et qu'au bout de 3 jours vous recevrez le visa par votre boite e mail.
cordialement christophe thomas
Agence pour tour des Khamouane en location de voiture et chauffeur (Laos) English translation pending
Bonjour
Nous sommes 4 personnes et souhaitons faire la boucle des khamouane en location de voiture avec chauffeur depart et retour à ThaKhek du 19 au 22/02/2020 soit 4 jours
Pour le moment nous avons une proposition à 125 € par jour c est un peu cher
Si vous avez des infos sur agence ou personne et prix merci de bien vouloir partager vos bons plans
Merci
Brouno
Trajet sleeping bus de Thakhek à Paksé English translation pending
Bonjour
Nous sommes 4 adultes à vouloir prendre le sleeping bus vientiane pakse mais a partir de ThaKhek le 22/02 combien de temps à l avance faut il acheter les billets
Doit on payer le trajet complet à partir de vientiane car quand je fais des simulations ThaKhek n apparait pas
Merci pour vos réponses
Plateau des Bolovens et Mékong au Laos English translation pending
Bonjour,
En préparation d'un voyage au Laos sur ml-janvier pourriez vous me donner des informations sur comment aborder le plateau des Bolavens et d'autre part la meilleure partie du Mékong en bateau.Merci à tous.