Getting Around Peru

Road Network, Traffic

Although three-quarters of Peru’s road network isn’t actually paved, it has been steadily improving for several years. The "Pan-American Highway" that crosses the country and the routes between major cities are in fairly good condition.

Elsewhere, in rural areas, roads are rougher and may require a four-wheel-drive vehicle at times. Additionally, during the rainy season, some secondary routes can be cut off due to flooding or landslides. Otherwise, as in many countries, road rules and signage can sometimes be quite unpredictable. Outside urban areas, it’s best to avoid driving at night.

Car Rental

Renting a vehicle isn’t really ideal in Peru due to the country’s size and the sometimes significant distances between sites to explore. Moreover, the condition of certain roads and local driving habits require caution and experience. It’s better to use public transport—buses or even planes for long distances—then hire a taxi by the day as needed for sightseeing and getting around. Ultimately, this will also be cheaper than the 35 to 50 €/day you’ll pay for a standard vehicle.

Buses and Shared Vehicles

Buses

Peru has an extensive bus network connecting most towns outside Amazon Rainforest, where rivers often replace roads. There are many local and national companies offering varying levels of comfort and speed; the best options are on major routes with few stops, offering premium services like sleeper seats, restrooms, Wi-Fi, etc. Among the most well-known and traveler-friendly carriers are Cruz del Sur and Ormeno. Also, the company Peru Hop operates like "shuttles," particularly on the Lima-Arequipa-Cusco route, catering mainly to English-speaking travelers at prices well above average.

In general, buses are safe and not too expensive for tourists, though conditions vary greatly. They’re an excellent way to get around the country, even for long distances with appropriately equipped coaches. Expect to pay roughly 4 to 5 € per 100 km for major "tourist" companies (excluding Cruz del Sur, the best and most expensive). As for "equipment," always bring at least a light layer against the air conditioning—if available—and the altitude, as well as an eye mask and earplugs for overnight trips.

In large cities or for major companies, bus access is limited to ticket holders, and luggage is checked at a counter; the company handles loading. Otherwise, you’ll need to ensure your bags are loaded yourself and keep an eye on them at all times. While not mandatory, buying your ticket in advance may be preferable.

Shared Taxis

Whether cars or minibuses, these are found in cities or their outskirts. They leave when full, stop on demand, and run on predefined short- to medium-distance routes. They’re practical and economical for these trips, just slightly more expensive than local buses.

Trucks

As in other Andean countries, trucks or pickups can sometimes serve as an alternative to buses. It’s more or less paid (cheaper than the bus), and you travel either in the cabin or in the back. For tourists, it’s more of an "experience" or a solution when other transport is lacking rather than a recommended way to get around the country.

Cycling

As in other countries in the region, cycling is far from ideal for travel (elevation, altitude, climate, traffic...) and is mainly for the most motivated and experienced. Or very locally for a short ride.

Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is practiced in areas poorly served by transport (often for a fee), especially with trucks and pickups. So, there’s nothing stopping you from trying occasionally, though you should be cautious, and the very reasonable cost of transport doesn’t require traveling this way.

Trains

There are only three train lines in Peru, all purely tourist-oriented with corresponding prices.

Lima-Huancayo Line

From the capital to the Andes with stunning landscapes and high-altitude passes (up to 4,718 m), making it the second-highest railway in the world—the first being in Tibet. The route is operated by Ferrocarril Central Andino with a few scheduled departures at set dates and minimum prices around $50 per trip.

Cusco-Puno Line

This is a Perurail service. It connects the two cities three or four times a week in 12 hours at exorbitant prices—over $250 one-way, even for a panoramic train!

Cusco-Ollantaytambo-Machu Picchu Line

This is the country’s most famous line as it takes you to Machu Picchu from Cusco (bus + train in 4 hours) or directly from Ollantaytambo (2-hour train). Expect at least $85 for the trip from Cusco or around $50 from Ollantaytambo. Though trains run frequently, especially in season, it’s best to book in advance, especially if you hope for the best prices, which fluctuate depending on the train and schedule. This line is also operated by Perurail, though another operator, Inca Rail, serves the Ollantaytambo-Machu Picchu route.

Boats

Beyond Lake Titicaca, boats—or more simply, canoes—are omnipresent in Amazon Rainforest, where, along with planes, they’re often the only way to travel between villages. In practice, these boats operate like buses with (more or less) set schedules and routes or can be chartered on demand. In any case, or at least for smaller boats or canoes, bring sun and mosquito protection and wrap your belongings. For cargo boats requiring several days of navigation, a hammock can be more than useful.

Access to Iquitos

The major city of the Peruvian Amazon, Iquitos with its 450,000 inhabitants, is accessible only by air or river. It has numerous regular connections to other places in Peru and neighboring countries.

• To/from Francisco de Orellana and Ecuador: This is over 1,100 km on the Napo River, taking 8 days. There are usually 3 boats per month on this route.

• To/from Leticia (Colombia) / Tabatinga (Brazil): Downstream from Iquitos on the Amazon, you reach the Peru-Colombia-Brazil border where the cities of Leticia and Tabatinga are located. The trip can be made several times a week in 3 days by cargo boat or around ten hours by speedboat. From this border, you can continue downstream to the Amazon’s mouth and Belém.

• To/from Pucallpa: A daily cargo boat connects the two cities in four days.

• To/from Yurimaguas: A daily cargo boat links Iquitos and Yurimaguas (where buses depart). The trip takes two to three days.

Domestic Flights

Peru’s air network is well-developed and widely used by travelers, if only to enjoy views of the Andes or reach Iquitos, which isn’t accessible by road.

Given the long distances and rugged terrain, planes are very practical, easy to use, and reasonably priced. You can find first prices around $100 for a Lima-Iquitos, Arequipa, or Cusco flight, and sometimes even less with "promotional round trips"—check directly with airline websites. The only downside, as often, is that most direct flights are centered on the capital, so traveling between two provincial cities usually requires a connection in Lima.

Local Airlines

• Avianca Peru: A subsidiary of Colombia’s Avianca, the airline serves a dozen domestic airports.

• Cielos del Oriente: A small airline operating only in the Peruvian Amazon.

• LATAM Peru: The local subsidiary of Chile’s LATAM. It operates around twenty international destinations and fifteen domestic ones.

• LC Peru: A domestic network from Lima to about ten airports.

• Star Peru: Only domestic flights to fewer than ten cities.

There are also a few other small airlines specializing in charter, air taxis, or scenic flights, like Aerodiana with the Nazca Lines.

In Town

Taxis and Ride-Hailing

Peruvian taxis generally don’t have meters, so you’ll need to agree on the price before a ride. In any case—and especially at night—it’s safer to use official, clearly identified vehicles or those you can book, for example, through your hotel.

Generally, taxi prices aren’t excessive, and you can expect to pay the equivalent of 2 € (short trip) to 5 € (long trip) for daytime urban travel. As in many countries, taxis can also be hired by the hour or day for sightseeing; this usually costs less than renting a car, with the added bonus of fewer "hassles."

Additionally, as elsewhere, Peruvian cities have ride-hailing fleets with fixed prices known in advance via their apps, avoiding surprises. Though they may be slightly more expensive than traditional taxis, they’re a good option for getting around urban areas.

Other Means

Larger cities generally have urban bus/minibus networks. While very economical (less than 0.50 € per trip), they’re often crowded, uncomfortable, not very fast, and not always easy to use for finding the right route. Additionally, in some places, there are also moto-taxis or even rickshaws, like in Iquitos. As for Lima, the city also has a metro line.

What to Choose for Getting Around?

Buses remain the most practical way to explore Peru, especially if you opt for premium companies, particularly for overnight trips. That said, other modes also offer advantages, like planes for stunning views of the Andes (worth doing at least once) and boats in the Amazon region, where there’s often no other choice. In short, you can travel mainly by bus while treating yourself to a flight or even hiring a vehicle for off-the-beaten-path visits.

Distances Between Cities

Distances (km) between the main cities in the country: