For a week-long trip starting from Marrakech with a rental car, if you had to choose between these two loops, which one would you go for and why?
1) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Merzouga - Marrakech (map itinerary)
2) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Zagora - Marrakech (map itinerary)
Important info: this is for mid-February, so nights will be cold.
For option 1, we’re thinking of staying in a "solid" hotel in Merzouga rather than camping in a tent without heating (our 10-year-old might not like that ^^). If you’ve got any experience to share about cold winter nights in the desert while camping, that’d be super helpful!
Zagora isn’t worth it in terms of desert—you need to go all the way to Mahmid to reach the dunes.
Search this forum’s engine (top right) for "Mahmid or Merzouga"—you’ll find discussions about the tough choice between the two spots.
Stay in a hostel or a bivouac?
At Merzouga, I really enjoy doing one of each! It lets you take the time to live at the village’s pace instead of just "consuming" the dunes in express mode. Stroll through the palm grove, wander the village, head to Khamlia (the Gnawa village)—all with the dunes always in sight. I love it!
Standard bivouac nights *are* cold, but it’s a very dry cold. The blankets do their job perfectly.
Otherwise, I think the rooms in "luxury camps" have heating (yes, it’s a bit odd...).
Thanks so much! Yeah, it was either the dunes (Merzouga) or more the Draa Valley (so not going all the way to M'hamid, since the route itself seems to be gorgeous).
What do you think about each of the routes in terms of distance for a week? We’ve got the travel times from Google Maps, but I’m not sure if they’re realistic (or if it takes double the time once you’re there).
I’ll keep your preference for the Merzouga route in mind!
Thanks
Don’t trust the travel times shown on Google Maps—they don’t account for the many villages that almost every road passes through, or the mountain curves...
Plan for an average speed of about 50-60 km/h.
What really takes time isn’t just the driving, but all the stops you’ll want to make! :-) It’s beautiful everywhere...
The Draa Valley is stunning, and I think it’s a shame to stop at Zagora. Even if you don’t want to explore the dunes, it’s worth going toward Mhamid (special mention for the village of Tamegroute and the Djane Dar Diafa hostel).
But I know the Merzouga area much better, and I never get tired of the road from Marrakech to Merzouga: diverse landscapes, plenty of interesting stops and visits along the way.
If you’re unsure about a bivouac in the dunes, opt for a night in a hostel first, and you can decide on the spot whether to spend a second night in a bivouac (every hostel has its own dunes camp—you’ll see if your daughter feels like giving it a try).
Thanks! I’d also like to push on to M’Hamid, but we only have a week and the itinerary already feels pretty ambitious, so I think we have to choose between going as far as Merzouga OR Zagora and even M’Hamid—but in that case, we won’t do the desert (not enough time). So it comes down to choosing between Merzouga and the dunes or the Draa Valley all the way to M’Hamid.
That’s a personal choice.
On the other hand, I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether either of these routes is doable in such a short time. I wouldn’t want to get there and realize we could’ve stopped every half hour to discover amazing things!
I’m not really a fan of Merzouga—it’s become a bit of a theme park. Not necessarily unpleasant, but if you're looking for a true desert vibe, you’ll need earplugs...
In November, it gets really cold at night in the desert and the mountains. During the day, it was fine.
Maybe you’ll find some ideas in this travel journal?
There’s also a dune not too far from Zagora. It’s more like the Dune of Pilat than a real desert, but it’s still fun, especially at 10 years old.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026
Rubrique Jeux Voyages
C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
if you go for Marrakech-Merzouga:
a full week (6 or 7 full days) works really well for this round-trip route.
Ideally 6 nights: 2 nights on the way there, 2 in Merzouga, and 2 on the way back.
Worthwhile stops along the way: Ait BenHaddou, Skoura, the Dades Gorge, Tineghir.
For the return trip, you could take a different route via Nkob and Agdz.
I can’t give you much advice on that stretch—I don’t know it well enough.
In one week, you have to choose—either Merzouga or Mhamid.
Personally, I’d go for Merzouga. It’s accessible by car, and there are several interesting spots along the way. The return trip is quicker via the southern route Almif–Nkob. A really nice stop is Camp Serdrar near Tazzarine. From there, a new road (still not marked on maps) lets you reach the Draa Valley at Zagora.
hi there
one week isn’t much, but it’s enough to do the stunning route: Marrakech, Aït Benhaddou, Dades, Merzouga, and back via Nkob and the Draa Valley!
personally, I’m staying at the Oasis hostel in Hassilabied, 3 km before Merzouga!
way more peaceful! Right at the foot of the dunes and next to the oasis!
spend a night in a bivouac—it’s always an amazing experience!
there are always blankets!
have a great trip
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
I’ve been going to Merzouga for 20 years. I’ve also seen the changes—some not so great—in this area. It’s clear I won’t see the Milky Way like I did 20 years ago, nor will I hear that sweet nighttime silence in the middle of the dunes. Even the hostel professionals have lost some of their spontaneity: for the most part, their activities have become very professionalized, with a well-oiled organization.
I went on a bivouac in 2021—I hadn’t been in 7 or 8 years.
And I tried the luxury bivouac... NEVER AGAIN!
Taking "dream" photos in the dunes was really complicated. In fact, I let go and opted for photos that showed the reality: quads and 4x4s far outnumbering camels (and much noisier, of course), questionable safety since some drive like maniacs, tire tracks from quads and 4x4s everywhere in the dunes. At sunset, there’s a constant back-and-forth of 4x4s looking for the best spot for the view (and as a result, 4x4s parked at the top of every dune...).
Those who edit promotional flyers about the dream night in the Merzouga Desert must be using old or doctored photos...
But I still go to Merzouga—to see friends in the village and to enjoy the area (dunes, palm grove in Merzouga, but also Rissani, Khamlia...). During the day, Merzouga is relatively quiet; most tourists are still on the road, not yet arrived. And honestly, my favorite moments in Merzouga over the past 20 years have been in the village, with the dunes as a permanent backdrop. And that’s just fine with me.
For someone who wants to "experience" the desert at a more natural pace, I’d recommend Mauritania or Algeria instead. But it’s also more demanding in terms of organization (and cost). Otherwise, well... Merzouga for a quick desert experience has become perfect (unfortunately for the area).
I’ve been going to Merzouga for 20 years. I’ve also seen the changes—some not so great—in this area. It’s clear I won’t see the Milky Way like I did 20 years ago, nor will I hear that sweet nighttime silence in the middle of the dunes. Even the hostel professionals have lost some of their spontaneity: for the most part, their activities have become very professionalized, with a well-oiled organization.
I went on a bivouac in 2021—I hadn’t been in 7 or 8 years.
And I tried the luxury bivouac... NEVER AGAIN!
Taking "dream" photos in the dunes was really complicated. In fact, I let go and opted for photos that showed the reality: quads and 4x4s far more numerous than camels (and much noisier, of course), safety very questionable since some drive like maniacs, quad and 4x4 tire tracks everywhere in the dunes; at sunset, a constant coming and going of 4x4s looking for the best spot for the view (and as a result, 4x4s parked on top of every dune...).
Those who edit promotional flyers about the dream night in the Merzouga Desert must be using old or doctored photos...
But I still go to Merzouga—to see friends in the village and to enjoy the area (dunes, palm grove in Merzouga, but also Rissani, Khamlia...). During the day, Merzouga is relatively quiet; most tourists are on the roads, not yet arrived. And really, my favorite moments in Merzouga over the past 20 years have been in the village, with the dunes as a permanent backdrop. And that’s just fine with me.
For someone who wants to "experience" the desert at a pace that suits it, I’d recommend Mauritania or Algeria instead. But it’s also more demanding in terms of organization (and cost). Otherwise, well... Merzouga for a quick desert fix has become perfect (unfortunately for the area).
Murielle
Okay, thanks Murielle, but what we’re looking for is different. I don’t see myself just enjoying the village with the dunes in the background, and we don’t have friends in the village ;)
On the other hand, we travel a lot, and everywhere we go, we avoid tourist traps. We’re obviously tourists ourselves, but not the "American-style" kind. For example, it wouldn’t occur to me to ride a quad in the desert. What you describe with the 4x4s and quads scares us, especially since we’ve changed our plans and will be going in April (peak season)!
The desert south of M’Hamid appealed to us more for that reason, but you have to drive all the way there and then another 2 hours from the last village to the dunes. That’s not really compatible with our 7-day schedule.
But I’ll start another thread because not only are we going in April, but we’ll also have 10 days. I hope to get your insights from everyone on our next post ;) Thanks
On the way out: Skoura and Tinghir.
On the way back: Dadès Valley and Ait Benhaddou.
Might as well take the opportunity to explore a few sites along this route.
Hello.
Without any hesitation, avoid Merzouga!
A great idea is to head to Mhamid (MRK, Aït Ben Haddou, Zagora) after getting in touch with Phil, who has a fantastic campsite just before Mhamid. He’ll organize a two-day trip for you with a night in the Chegaga desert (it’s not a touristy thing) and then you’ll head back up to MRK.
Phil is incredibly committed to the local community—he runs his place in a remarkable way and has nothing to do with the "money-grabbers" in Merzouga or some of the other "hotel owners" in Mhamid.
Phil is active on this forum (@Distran), and his campsite, "Esprit Désert," is in Oulad Driss, just before Mhamid and near the stunning abandoned village of Bou Nou (worth visiting).
You can find his contact details online.
PS: Just to clarify, Phil is French, so communication is easy.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
The desert south of M'Hamid appealed to us more for that reason, but you have to drive all the way down there and then another 2 hours from the last village to the dunes. Not really compatible with our 7-day timeline.
Hi there,
That’s exactly why I mentioned the benefit of pushing on to Mhamid if you’re heading to Zagora.
See you soon on your other thread! :-)
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Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!