Questions about exploring the Carretera Austral
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Translated into English.

Original post
NA
Hi there,

I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.

I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.

I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.

I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?

What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?

Nath
DÉ Décat Regular ·
Hi there! You won’t be able to reach Ushuaia via the Carretera Austral, which ends at Villa O'Higgins—certainly not by car, unless you head way back north. However, I’ve traveled it myself (via Chiloé on the way there) and it’s a fantastic memory (November 2024). In Ushuaia, during another trip, we took a cruise with Tres Marias, a small boat—really nice. I wasn’t initially keen on going to Ushuaia, but the scenery, with mountains plunging into the sea, is absolutely worth the detour. In Punta Arenas, you can visit the penguins on Magdalena Island. Since you’ve got time, consider heading to Puerto Williams, in Chile across from Ushuaia—it’s stunning. Our biggest highlight was Tierra del Fuego: vast landscapes, no crowds, guanacos, king penguins, lakes... We’ve been to Chile seven times, Argentina twice, Bolivia three times. Skipped this year, but we’ve got a trip planned for 2027—Chile, Argentina, and the Falkland Islands.
Voyager, c'est marcher dans ses rêves.
NA Nath009 Regular ·
thanks for the recommendations, I’ll be on my bike!
SH Sheepie Globetrotter ·
Good evening, what an awesome plan! Ushuaia itself doesn’t have much to offer, except for its location. There’s a special kind of light there that gives it a lot of charm. There are also some lovely walks to do, and Tierra del Fuego is generally really nice. From there, you can take a mini-cruise to see loads of birds, penguins, and other wildlife (you can also spot king penguins between Porvenir and Ushuaia – https://www.pinguinorey.com/). There’s also a cruise—or more like a ferry trip—between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams. If you enjoy taking your time and discovering off-the-beaten-path spots, you’ll love it. To connect the Carretera Austral with Puerto Natales (in Chile, where Torres del Paine National Park is), there’s a ferry that sails through the channels and takes about forty hours. No cabins, just reclining seats. It only runs once a week, so you’ll need to plan carefully, especially since it can be delayed or rescheduled due to weather conditions. https://www.tabsa.cl/rutas/pyungay-pnatales If you want to return via a different route, you’ll have to go through Argentina, and the drive is painfully long—but you’ve got time. You could head up to the Bariloche region and the Seven Lakes route.
blog : https://www.blog-trotting.fr/voyage/1437-quatre-mamies-en-amerique-du-sud http://perou-patagonie.e-monsite.com/ Blogs : http://www.travelark.org/traveller/marie-claude.g
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hello,

I don't know if I'll go all the way to Ushuaia; it seems like it's not really worth the effort, except to say you've been to the end of the world.

Actually, it's not "the end of the world" since the southernmost permanently inhabited town on Earth is Puerto Williams, almost opposite Ushuaia on the southern shore of the Beagle Channel (on the Chilean side) and the main town in the Cabo de Hornos municipality, a name that should ring a bell. I haven't been to Puerto Williams, and I regret it even more after reading Decat's reply above saying it's really beautiful.

Back to Ushuaia—it's true that if you expect, like I did, a village of rugged pioneers made of log cabins, well, no, it's not like that at all... However, if you take the time to explore its surroundings—which those who say it's not worth it may not have done enough—it’s a stop that leaves you with nothing but wonderful memories of the landscapes: - Hikes in Tierra del Fuego National Park, which you shouldn’t miss, - A hike to the shore of Lake Fagnano (another spot not along Route 3 from Río Grande), - A hike to the foot of the glacier whose name I’ve forgotten, and which I didn’t do all the way, but even partway offers an incredible view of the city and the bay. - And finally, last but not least, a boat ride on the legendary Beagle Channel in an end-of-the-world landscape, where you can see, among other things, a colony of elephant seals—huge males—lounging on their rocks. The boat gets close, but you don’t disembark because the animals are dangerous.

All this to try to convince (you) that yes, you *should* go to Ushuaia.

I plan to start around Temuco in Chile; I’m thinking of heading toward the lakes,

Great idea to visit the aptly named Región de los Lagos—I’ve actually been there once on each of my two trips. The lakes aren’t always easily connected by public transport if you want to avoid backtracking on the main Temuco-Puerto Montt road, but since you’ll be on a bike, you’ll love it. Just bring a good map.
ON Onbaik ·
Hi,

I biked through Chile and Argentina about ten years ago. Back then, there was no gas, but that might have changed. As for the bag, I think it’s enough (that’s what I plan to take). I’m interested in the answer because I’m planning to go back to ride from San Carlos to Ushuaia (how original, right?). You can cross from Chile to Argentina at the end of the Carretera Austral. There are plenty of posts and info on this topic.

Happy planning!
Pourquoi vouloir absolument soulever des montagnes alors qu'il est si simple de passer par dessus.

http://onbaik.blogspot.fr
NA Nath009 Regular ·
Thanks for the info
NA Nath009 Regular ·
Well, thank you so much—you’ve definitely made me change my mind! When you talk about hiking, is it on foot? I might look into taking the toughest part by bus, if there are buses that allow bikes.
NA Nath009 Regular ·
Thanks 😊
SO Songsam Veteran ·
When you talk about hiking, is it on foot?

Yes, but you’ll still need to get to the trailheads first:

From Ushuaia to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (12 km): shuttles, shuttles + historic tourist train (once used by convicts between the lumber camps and the town), or why not bike. The park entry fee is around 18 euros in 2026 (source: https://www.daytours4u.com/fr/guide-de-voyage/prix-des-parcs-nationaux-dargentine/3339). Some hikes are short enough to do two in a single day. This site, updated in 02/2026, has plenty of info about the park: https://thedailypackers.com/fr/parc-national-tierra-del-fuego/

From Ushuaia to the start of the trail to Lago Fagnano (~18 km): bus (toward Río Grande) or bike. The trail itself is called Sendero Cascada Beban, a waterfall you’ll pass along the way before continuing to the lake. From the road, the distance is about 23 km round trip. I’m linking a video below that shows the terrain and elevation. Given the distance, it’d be best to plan on camping at the end—no infrastructure, so bring a sleeping bag. If your goal is just to see the lake, you can stop along Route 3 (which you’ll take anyway if you’re driving to Ushuaia) where it runs alongside the lake for a stretch, like in Tolhuin or even at Hosteria Kaiken (pricey) with its stunning lake views. I didn’t stay there, but the bus stopped for about 20 minutes.

https://youtu.be/MHStUdr6MMY?si=CftN9ZJRAi6FWqwR
LE Levelo Veteran ·
Hi Nathalie,

As part of a (very) long bike trip, I recently pedaled from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia/Puerto Williams, then from PW/Punta Arenas up to the Atacama in northern Chile.

1) In Patagonia, whether in Chile or Argentina (but especially in Argentina!), always bike from north to south, like 99% of cyclists do. Going the other way is HELL.

2) You’ll find butane/propane gas cartridges with screw threads (European/North American style) almost everywhere in "ferreterías" or the many camping stores in the region.

3) The main road crossing Tierra del Fuego is stunning and worth it, with plenty of hikes possible along the way, as others have advised. The journey matters more than the destination. Watch out—Argentinian national parks charged $40/day for entry in winter 2024/2025... I did the Huemul Circuit independently (4 days) starting from El Chaltén (Fitz Roy massif). It was amazing but pretty tough with ice.

5) If you want a sense of what Tierra del Fuego was like before the crowds, take one of the *lanchas* (small motorboats) that cross the Beagle Channel daily to Puerto Navarino. It’s pricey, but you won’t regret the money. There are tons of day hikes toward the peaks above PW, plus the famous Dientes de Navarino loop. The (public) ferry to Punta Arenas (36 hours) is fantastic and very affordable. We saw so many whales! :)

6) Bring a warmer sleeping bag. With a 0°C bag, you’ll freeze—seriously. I hit snow in late November at the last small pass after Tolhuin in Tierra del Fuego. I’d say -10°C to be safe.

Happy travels!
NA Nath009 Regular ·
Wow, reading all this makes me even more excited for this trip! Right now, I'm on a bike trip through Hungary, Slovenia, and Austria, so I'll look into this in more detail when I get back.
NA Nath009 Regular ·
Thanks so much for this detailed reply. As I told the other person, reading this makes me even more excited about my upcoming trip. But I’ll look at your answers in more detail once I’m back home

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