Carnet de route 2009: à la découverte de l'ouest de Cuba

Hi,

We all know the raft is taking on a bit of water. No discussion threads about the island for weeks... Have all travelers really moved on elsewhere? No one who could come to the rescue with recent info? I’m in the Caribbean and still kinda feel like swinging by in September/October... Looks like there are still direct flights from Mexico and the Dominican Republic for getting in and out.

L.

Hi,

I'm heading to the Dominican Republic for 5 days in December. I arrive and depart from Samana Airport (AZS). I'm looking to rent a car, ideally right at the airport, but I don't see any options. Are there no rental agencies at Samana Airport? If not, do you know where I could rent a vehicle closest to the airport and how to get there?

Thanks in advance!

Have a great day, everyone

hi I’m leaving on August 11th for Punta Cana—are there any seaweed on the beaches? thanks

Hi, I’m heading to Miches for the first time in November 2026 (no all-inclusive) I’d love some tips to plan my stay—accommodation, things to do, places of interest nearby. Is it possible to rent a scooter there to get around the area? Thanks for your help! Best,

hi there, I’ve never been to Martinique. my girlfriend, who’s of Martinican origin, has never had the chance to go either (life isn’t always easy). now we can plan a little trip, but we don’t know which airline to choose or how to find accommodation.

basically, I need quite a few tips.

we’re planning to go in September—no chance before that.

Hi! We spent 10 wonderful days in Guadeloupe’s gorgeous climate. Our arrival got off to a shaky start, though—our suitcase was left behind at the airport, which caused quite a stir. A police officer was shouting at us to get out and cross the street. Then, a taxi driver refused to take us after we showed him where we were staying, right by the port in Pointe-à-Pitre. "No one goes there," he told us! Good thing we arrived during Carnival! A second driver finally agreed to take us, and I can say he knew every nook and cranny of his city.

The rest of the trip was amazing. The locals were smiling and welcoming. We didn’t rent a car, so we didn’t get around much and stayed in the Deshaies area—a real favorite. Plage de la Perle (Pearl Beach) truly lives up to its name! We liked Grande Anse Beach less because of the steep slope, which made walking tricky, and the waves were pretty intense. The landscapes in this part of the island are idyllic. We visited the botanical garden—it’s worth it—and went to the port in Deshaies. If we ever go back, we’ll rent a vehicle so we can explore more, because taxis aren’t cheap!

Hi, I’m leaving soon for Punta Cana—what kind of money should we bring: Canadian dollars, US dollars, or are we forced to exchange once we arrive? Thanks

Good evening,

We spent 15 days in the Exumas from March 10th to 26th.

I should mention that we’ve been traveling to islands for 20 years, so we have points of comparison when it comes to prices, hospitality, and landscapes.

First, the flights: we now live in the Luberon, so we flew out of Marseille. We took British Airways, which we’ve used several times before for trips to the English-speaking Caribbean and which offers flights via Heathrow. We had an overnight layover in London on the way out, then a flight to Nassau. After that, we took a connecting flight (we had a 2h20 layover in Nassau, which was more than enough) to George Town with Sky Bahamas. We had initially ruled out Bahamasair based on very negative reviews. Immigration and customs were very quick.

When we arrived, we took a taxi to our hotel, Augusta Bay. Cost: $30.

We rented a car through Sure and Shore. It was delivered to our hotel the day after we arrived, and we kept it until we left for Stocking Island. For 9 days, we paid $470 (which is a great price) for a small Honda that wasn’t very new, but we didn’t have any issues with it. One thing we’d never experienced before: they’d put newspaper sheets on the floor, and we were told not to get any sand in the car if we went to the beach!

We stayed 5 nights at Augusta Bay. A 5-minute walk away is the beautiful, uncrowded Jolly Beach, perfect for swimming. We visited the southern part of the island to see the beaches of Little Exuma, especially Tropic of Cancer Beach and the one next to Santana’s restaurant. We also went to Hopper Bay Beach, where you can see a group of about ten turtles near a small boat dock. We went kayaking from the hotel.

Then we stayed at Paradise Bay in the north. While we hadn’t encountered the sandfly problem before, here it’s important to know that the beach is infested with them. The hotel’s restaurant, which is very good otherwise, even provides repellent for guests— that’s how bad it is! From there, we visited Coco Plum Beach, Three Sisters Beach (where you can snorkel), and others. We also went kayaking again.

We ended our trip with 3 nights on Stocking Island at Saint Francis Resort. If we were to do it again, we’d spend 4 nights there. The island has many trails, snorkeling spots, and you can get around by kayak. We saw rays, turtles, and even a harmless shark, as well as some beautiful beaches. Plus, the welcome at Saint Francis was the warmest we experienced.

Be aware that everything is very expensive on the island—much more so than in the English-speaking Caribbean. Clearly, the purchasing power of Americans plays a role. They say everything is imported, but that’s the case on all islands! Some places only accept cash or charge a 5% fee if you pay by card.

We didn’t find the locals particularly friendly. If you’ve been to Dominica or Grenada, for example, you’ll know what I mean.

We explored the whole island. The beaches are stunning, but the roads tell a different story. There are a lot of car wrecks—some houses have two or three in front of them, which really spoils the landscape. There are also many abandoned, ruined houses.

The vegetation is lush but not tropical, and you’ll be served apples and oranges for breakfast because there are very few exotic fruits.

As for the climate in March, there was no humid atmosphere, and the heat was very manageable (26°C). It was very pleasant. The seawater, however, is definitely cooler than in the Indian Ocean, for example.

There’s not much snorkeling, but we knew that before coming.

In conclusion: beautiful beaches, sand as fine as flour, and a very pleasant climate. But honestly, for the same cost, I’d prefer the Seychelles, for example.

Best regards.

Hi everyone, I need your help! We’re planning to visit Guadeloupe and take the opportunity to explore the islands La Désirade, Marie-Galante, and Les Saintes. I initially planned to rent a car to get around the main island and then take the ferry from Trois-Rivières to Les Saintes, from Pointe-à-Pitre to Marie-Galante, and finally from Saint-François to La Désirade, following that route. But when I look at it, the car would sit unused for at least 5 days—that’s paying for nothing🙁. Is it possible to go from LES SAINTES to MARIE-GALANTE and then on to LA DÉSIRADE? We’d only rent a car once we arrive in Saint-François to continue exploring Guadeloupe. What do you think—is that doable? This trip is planned for April. Thanks so much for your help

Hi there,

Just a quick update on the state of this road: the unpaved section has been significantly improved. You can now complete the journey in about 4 to 4.5 hours instead of 6. Great news! For me, the most hazardous part is actually the paved section before and after Sagua. It encourages higher speeds, but there are deep, dangerous potholes that appear without warning. Be careful!

I’d also note that despite occasional power outages—which casas and paladares know how to handle—tourism remains perfectly doable. Cuba is still magical! I was just told, with a touch of humor, that the official German government website suggests bringing your own toilet paper and candles… Hmm, maybe an update on rechargeable gear would be in order…

Best,

renaldito

Hi! We’re visiting Guadeloupe for the first time in January. We’re looking for accommodation near Deshaies to start our trip. A quiet spot, not too far from the sea so we can walk there. Any suggestions are welcome!

Have a great day!

Hi everyone,

I’ve just returned from 15 days in Cuba and wanted to share my experience along with some practical tips for those planning a trip there.

1. Formalities:

- Passport valid for at least 6 months after your return. - E-visa: apply online (payment by bank transfer only via the embassy of your choice): evisacuba.cu or through an agency novelacuba.com (card payment on their site—I had to go with this option and recommend it because the Cuban embassy in Brussels apparently never received my transfer...) - Digital D’Viajeros form to fill out a few days before departure - Mandatory health insurance

2. Currency/budget - Plan your entire budget in cash; card payments are rare, and withdrawals at the official rate aren’t great. Local currency: CUP (Cuban Peso)

Official rate: ~1 € = 120 CUP → state-run restaurants and shops.

Current unofficial rate: ~1 € = 490 CUP → private restaurants, local bars, Cuban-owned shops.

For exchanging money: The easiest way: ask at your *casa particular* or a local restaurant.

3. My itinerary (15 days)

Havana: 3 nights Viñales: 3 nights Cienfuegos: 1 night Trinidad: 3 nights Varadero: 3 nights Havana: 1 night

Flights: Air Europa from Brussels, with a layover in Madrid. Smooth and pleasant service. Accommodations: *casas particulares* booked on Airbnb except for Varadero (Iberostar Playa Alameda hotel).

Practical tips

Install a VPN before departure (many blocked sites like Instagram and Airbnb).

Download the El Toque app to check the updated CUP exchange rate.

Internet via ETECSA SIM card (~30 € for 10 GB) or Wi-Fi in hotels/*casas*.

Download Maps.me for offline maps.

Intercity travel: shared taxi, Viazul bus, or private transfer through your *casa*.

Electricity: 110 V, sometimes 220 V.

Bring basic supplies and medications—hard to find there.

Cuba requires flexibility and openness: regular power outages, unstable internet (especially in Trinidad).

Finally, my personal take:

I loved my trip to Cuba! It’s a disorienting yet deeply charming country. Poverty is visible, especially in Havana: crumbling buildings, many people asking for help (but no safety concerns!). Bringing some essentials for locals is a good idea (soap, toothpaste, medications, clothes...). Cubans are incredibly welcoming and friendly. A few basics in Spanish help a lot! The vibe is unique: music in every street, musicians everywhere, salsa all around. The variety of landscapes is amazing: colonial architecture, paradise beaches, mountains, waterfalls, lush valleys—you’ll never get bored. Only downside: Varadero, less authentic than the rest of the country, but I expected that! Overall, it was a wonderful trip, and I’d love to go back!

Don’t hesitate if you have any questions! 😉

Hi, Several comments recommend bringing mosquito repellent. Got it. Are there a lot of them during the day? And by the seaside? Or are they more present (and voracious) in the evening? Thanks.

Hi everyone,

I bought tickets for Martinique in April 2025 for 15 days, without really looking into what there was to do, and with the idea in my head that we could: hike, do water activities, swim, visit rum distilleries...

But... I’m worried I’ll get bored over 15 days and I’m considering maybe spending 1 week in Guadeloupe and 1 week in Martinique. For example, I don’t know how to spend a whole afternoon at the beach. 2 hours, max.

I know it’s a personal question and depends on how you travel, but I’d love to hear your thoughts if you’ve done it: - Did you feel too rushed? - Is it reasonable to do? - How much time would you spend on each island?

I’m open to all your comments.

Thanks so much.

Have a lovely afternoon! :)

Hi everyone,

I’ve just returned from Havana after an 18-day stay from October 8th to 26th.

From Montreal, you have to go through Varadero Airport. I now break up the airport-to-Havana transfer with a SUPER pleasant stopover halfway, in the historic village of Hershey (Camilo Cienfuegos). Quebecer Anne-Marie has renovated a century-old house there, and every stay of mine feels like a peaceful oasis. Amazing food, a pool, impeccable hospitality—I highly recommend it! Casa Cub'Anita.

Life for Cubans remains just as tough, made even harder right now by tropical viruses spread by mosquitoes. It’s absolutely essential to protect yourself properly. That said, the purchasing power of foreign currency hasn’t changed much, despite skyrocketing inflation. As of today, the US dollar exchanges for nearly 500 pesos on the "informal market."

This was my first time staying in Vieja, in the non-touristy part. I discovered some great little restaurants run by the younger generation. Affordable, excellent food, and remarkably friendly service: El Chanchulero (it was about time I checked it out—unbeatable value for money!), El Café, Jibaro...

Cubans are still as warm and welcoming as ever—bicitaxis, servers, markets. Speaking the language is a huge plus.

Essentials to download from abroad before you leave: the maps.me offline maps app, and the La Nave taxi/motorcycle taxi app, which is super efficient for getting around the capital.

Sending my best to all my friends in Oriente as the hurricane passes, especially to Baracoa. I’m planning to visit this winter.

Cheers!

renaldito

Hi there,

I’m planning a trip to Cuba this summer and I’d love some info: Is travel insurance really necessary? Can you easily get online by buying a local SIM card or internet card? Apparently, there’s only one currency now—is it better to exchange money with your *casa particular* host? Thanks for all these valuable tips!

Hi! I’m heading to Havana for a week in February. I’m looking for a casa particular that’s affordable, clean, and cozy. Since I’ll be traveling alone, I’d love a place where people are welcoming! Also, I really want to stay in Habana Vieja...

Do you have any recommendations for places you’ve stayed before? I tried booking the casa particular *Chez Nous*, but I never got a response.

Thanks!!

Julie

Hi fellow travelers, We're heading to Martinique for a month from mid-January to mid-February. Our plan is to explore the island by staying in three different spots for 10 days each, on both sides of the island... Could you share some great tips on where to stay for an authentic experience and what we absolutely must see?!

Thanks for your help! Voyamie.

Hi there, In March 2026 I’ll be at the Club Med in Sainte-Anne and I’m thinking of heading to Les Saintes at the end of my stay. Do you know what the most convenient way to get there is? Thanks so much!

Hi everyone. For those traveling to Cuba and then planning to go to the USA, you won’t be able to get your ESTA for the United States (same applies) if you’ve been to Cuba after 2021 due to a law passed by Donald Trump (a law that Biden later repealed). You’ll have no choice but to apply for a visa, which costs 200 € (and approval isn’t guaranteed even after payment). If you’re in this situation, the process to get this visa will be a real hassle—you’ll need to book an appointment at the U.S. Embassy in Paris. It’s the only embassy in France authorized to handle your application after you’ve filled out the visa request on the official website. If you try to cheat by applying for an ESTA for the USA, just know that the American administration has ways of finding out if you’ve been to Cuba. 😉

What would you recommend at the airport to get to Ste Anne... Taxis or rideshares? Can you point me to a good one?

I'm looking for information on the islands of Puerto Rico, St. Barthélemy, and St. Martin for March 2026. What is there to see, and if possible, prices or tips, please? Thanks, Michel V.

Hi everyone,

I’ve booked a room at an all-inclusive in Varadero for January 2025. This will be my 3rd trip to Cuba, the last one was 20 years ago.

The whole tipping and gratuities thing is wearing me out. Even though it’s an all-inclusive package, I think it’d be rude not to leave any tips for the bar staff and the housekeeping team, especially.

Here’s what I’m aiming for: 1. Not feeling stingy (or “feeling cheap” for my fellow Quebecers); 2. Not disrespecting Cubans by offering junk or, on the flip side, going overboard and creating unrealistic expectations for future tourists; 3. And most importantly, not spending the whole week wondering if I’m doing the right thing. I’m going there to relax, not to stress!

Can you help me out? Thanks! 🙂

Hi there, I’m planning our upcoming trip to Guadeloupe. We’re looking for a place to stay where human contact is a priority, with air conditioning, close to the beaches, and clean.

We’ve had several responses. After doing some research online, I was able to rule out quite a few options. But now I’m deciding between: Kokoplaj, tipayoune (issue: no AC, just fans—is that a problem?), Résidence Le Zandoli, and Gwada Rêves.

If you have any info or experiences to share, I’d love to hear them! ;-) Thanks for your help! See you soon...

Hi, I’ll be staying at Playa Pesquero in Holguin and I’d like to rent a bike or scooter to explore the area. Do you know how I can do that? Thanks

Hi there,

I’m heading to Blau Costa Verde next February and I’d like to rent a scooter to explore the area. Are the roads around Holguín in good condition? I’m thinking of renting one for 1–2 or 3 days to visit Holguín, Gibara, and Banes on my own. Do you recommend it (I’ve got a great sense of direction)? How much does it usually cost to rent a scooter for 2 or 3 days (or a car, though I’d prefer a scooter)? Also, are there any other interesting spots nearby you’d suggest checking out?

Are there any excursions to Santiago, and how much do they typically cost?

Thanks! :)

hi need some info—I’m torn between Martinique and Guadeloupe for April. also, which island is bigger in terms of trip length? thanks in advance

Hi, When booking the tickets to Martinique for our family, I must have made a mistake, and on one of the tickets, the third first name is wrong. Michel instead of Joel... CORSAIR Airlines is telling me I have to buy a new ticket for 1200 € (Christmas period). I think that’s outrageous and, above all, impossible for us. I’m desperate—I feel like Corsair is really overdoing it. Is there any recourse? How can I get out of this?

I’m throwing this message in a bottle, just in case...😕

Thanks for your help.

Hi On a layover in Pointe-à-Pitre—where’s a good place to stay for one night? Thanks

Hi, I'm looking for a car rental for January 2020 in Guadeloupe. There are several agencies I've seen reviews for—has anyone dealt with Autolagon before? Thanks!