We’re back from our 3-week trip to South Africa in July. It was a family trip with our four grown-up kids (ages 18 to 25).
First off, I’d like to thank everyone on this forum for their great tips—they really helped us plan this trip!
The trip:
We spent 15 days between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town, then a week around Kruger (including Blyde River Canyon). We found South Africans to be welcoming and always ready to help. We never felt unsafe (just followed basic safety rules).
The police are very visible, especially on the roads.
Logistics:
We’d booked our accommodations in advance but made a few changes on the spot based on how we felt at the time.
We rented two vehicles from Firefly (Hertz). No complaints—recent cars, quick returns, and the deposit wasn’t charged. We’d gotten our international driver’s permits... which stayed in France! Luckily, no one asked for them.
Driving on the left wasn’t an issue (it wasn’t our first time). The roads we took were in good, even great, condition. Only a few tracks to lodges or parks were rough and required extra caution.
Lots of pedestrians on the sides of roads, even highways. And plenty of very slow trucks. But they pull over to let you pass. It’s also common for cars to cross into the opposite lane to overtake, even with white lines.
We took two domestic flights: one early in the morning (Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth) and one in the late afternoon (Cape Town to Johannesburg) to save time.
We had some highlights and a few disappointments—all part of the journey! More details coming soon.
Good evening!
We’ll be eagerly waiting for the rest—it’s true that with six people, you either need two cars or a really long, expensive Toyota.
From what I’ve seen, unless there’s an exception, the international driver’s permit is still just theoretical…
Phew!
Hi Laurence,
Oh yes, I agree with Muriel—the first photo is really beautiful (where is this?) and makes me want to see the rest.
Thanks for putting together the travel journal and good luck sorting through the photos!
Thanks for your messages. The photo was taken from the Malelane Gate bridge in Kruger.
Day 1: For our first day, we decided to take it easy and stay in Johannesburg. We visited the Apartheid Museum—really interesting and moving—where we ended up spending over 3 hours without realizing it. Then we went to Constitution Hill, but it was closed due to a water issue. We could only see the outside, which wasn’t very exciting. Since it was a Sunday, we wrapped up at the Rosebank Mall Sunday market. Great vibe, lots of African craft stalls (some better than others), food stands, and a second-hand market.
We can’t say the city itself—at least the little we saw—really wowed us. But there are probably nicer neighborhoods than the ones we passed through.
We used Uber for all our trips—reliable, fast, and cheap.
Day 2 & 3: Addo Elephant NP. Our first long-awaited safari—here we are!
We entered through the south gate and drove up to Addo Main Camp for 2 nights. The landscapes were stunning, and we saw tons of animals: dozens and dozens of elephants (2/3 times quite aggressive, forcing us to back up or even turn around), just as many zebras, warthogs, various antelopes, hyenas, and other animals—including 1 lion. Actually, we first *almost* spotted one at the end of the day. It was the people in another car, scanning the horizon with huge binoculars, who pointed it out to us. With our much less powerful binoculars, we could just barely make out a distant shape lying on its back. You couldn’t really say we *saw* a lion—more like the silhouette of one. We wondered how they even spotted it! The next morning, several stopped cars alerted us to an animal, and bingo—another lion, lying in front of some bushes. Still pretty far, but clearly visible with binoculars. We passed by the same spot in the afternoon, and the lion was still there! We stayed a little while to watch it until it disappeared into the bushes. We got really lucky this time (spoiler: that won’t always be the case ).
Two days felt like enough for this part of the park. It let us do some loops twice without necessarily seeing the same animals—we spotted more in the northern part than the southern. Some dirt roads require keeping the car at a decent height.
This amazing park was our first love. Beautiful landscapes, tons of animals, hardly any crowds—pure bliss! !
Well, here’s a good start!
Joburg has its appeal, but definitely not everywhere or at any time of day.
Pretoria is a tad cooler.
Addo… It’s the park created for elephants—
originally tuskless ones.
A “natural” selection under ivory-hunting pressure.
It’s true that an elephant—especially a grey one, not pink—can be pretty impressive and not always easy to understand or handle.
Sometimes it’s better to back off *very* gently!
Lions were reintroduced quite recently, and you’ll need some luck to spot them.
I know what I’m talking about…
Did you notice the lack of giraffes?
Since they weren’t endemic to this region,
they weren’t introduced to Addo.
Alright then,
We’re eagerly waiting for the rest of the story!
Days 4 & 5: Headed to Garden Road NP. Spent the night at Storms River Mouth rest camp. The waves crash against the rocks—still a stunning sight. Easy and pleasant walk to the suspension bridges, which we thought would be much higher. We spotted several monkeys.
The next day, before leaving, we made a quick climb to a viewpoint for an overview. Suddenly, a spout of water caught our attention—a whale! The advantage of being in a group is there’s always someone looking in the right place. What was supposed to be a quick glance lasted much longer than expected.
Stopped at Robberg Nature Reserve. Since the morning was already well underway, we decided to do the 2-hour hike. It took us much longer—not because it was difficult (far from it), but because it was so beautiful. Between the cliffs, the white sand beaches, and the noisy, smelly seal colony, we lingered the whole way. Second favorite moment—it was incredible. We regretted not having time to do the longer loop.
We skipped the other planned stops along the route to arrive at Ebb & Flow Rest Camp just before nightfall. Absolute calm, almost no one around.
I don’t know the southern part of South Africa at all—it’s a trip I keep putting off (in favor of regions/countries that are more "wildlife-focused"), but your photos really make me want to go! 😉
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
It's a beautiful region. Addo Elephant NP is definitely worth a detour in this area.
Day 6 & 7: With clouds clinging to the hills and rain forecast all day, we change our plans. We’d originally planned to take our time driving through Oudtshoorn and its surroundings to reach Swellendam, but we figured that mountain passes and viewpoints in fog or rain wouldn’t be great. So, we decide to head to Woodville Big Tree instead. It’s an easy walk through the forest to a tree over 800 years old—nothing special, pretty ordinary. We take the N2 in the rain to Swellendam, a road with no charm. Since we arrive much earlier than planned and the rain has stopped, we decide to visit Bonteboks NP. Well, it’s more of the same for the day: meh. The roads are quite rough (high clearance essential). We spot a few bonteboks (spoiler: we’ll see way more the next day) and some steenboks. Okay, one positive point: we see our first mountain zebras. Maybe we should’ve stayed overnight (the chalets seem nice) and explored the trails to really appreciate the park.
We stop for 2 nights at a farm in the middle of nowhere. Gorgeous. The day’s mood shoots right back up!
The next day is dedicated to visiting The Hoop Nature Reserve. Ostriches, mountain zebras, baboons, and bonteboks. A walk on the dunes—we’re alone, and it’s stunning. A large marine animal shows its back now and then. We couldn’t identify it, but it was too close to shore to be a whale, in our opinion.
Second walk toward the reception along Hoopvlei—it’s beautiful and peaceful.
This park is one of our favorites too. It’s truly beautiful, relaxing, with a variety of landscapes, wildlife, and hardly any visitors. We really felt alone in nature during our walks. The roads to access the park and within it are unpaved and in pretty rough shape (high clearance essential).
Hi there!
It’s true that Bontebok isn’t an awe-inspiring park.
It’s true that the chalets are gorgeous.
Since there aren’t any big animals, you can also take two or three nice hikes and go fishing.
I’d considered this place as a cheap stopover and a break.
De Hoop
It’s pretty cool, right?
The beach, the view…
That little restaurant up on the beach?
And bonteboks, ostriches, and zebras everywhere!
Lovely spot.
Did you have a chalet?
It was very likely a whale 🐋
Mountain Zebra – you nailed it!
The stripes don’t go all the way down.
Muzzle with an orange tint.
Ears are bigger and striped on both sides.
Slight “goiter.”
😄
It was from that little restaurant above the beach that we spotted the whale or something. We didn’t sleep in the park but at a farm in the surrounding countryside. Absolute peace and quiet. Really lovely.
Day 8: We set off for Hermanus with high hopes to see the whales. We stopped at Cape Agulhas to see the southernmost point of the African continent. Well, apart from telling ourselves we’d been there, there wasn’t much to see. The lighthouse is pretty ordinary, and we didn’t go up.
Then we arrived in Hermanus for the whales... which weren’t there. The coastal path was still nice to walk, but it was a bit of a letdown not to see a single one. Only some bold and curious rock hyraxes came up to us.
We tried our luck again the next morning. We spotted a few splashes in the water in the distance—a whale, but only visible with binoculars. We didn’t exactly win, but we made the best of it! !
We’ve seen them everywhere except in Hermanus! Quite ironic ;). But nature isn’t on demand, and that’s a good thing.
Day 9: Stop at Stony Point Nature Reserve (Betty’s Bay) to see the penguin colony. A short walk on a wooden boardwalk to avoid disturbing them. Lovely setting facing the ocean, unlike the coast with its large houses.
The R44 road is pleasant with some stunning viewpoints.
We arrived in Cape Town in the early afternoon and decided to start with Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, which was on our way to our accommodation in Hout Bay. Bad call, but we didn’t know it yet! It’s not the best time to visit the botanical garden, but it’s still nice. A little suspension bridge. Some lovely views from the top of the park.
Hi there,
Just a quick note for fellow travelers.
According to my sources, you need to be extra careful and stay alert around the Kirstenbosch Gardens area—roads, entrance, and nearby accommodations.
Paranoia or reality?
I’m not sure.
Did any of you notice anything?
We didn’t notice anything special. The road leading there is pretty, winding a lot, and very busy. We took it several times. We’d go to the local Spar to do our shopping since we were staying in a house 15 minutes from the gardens and near Imizamo Yethu. No issues, but it felt strange having a garden surrounded by electrified barbed wire and a remote with an "emergency" button.
Safety in this area isn’t unnecessary.
For Boulders, our mountain-loving friend is referring to:
There are two entrances:
The Main one
The other
They’re connected by a wooden walkway.
The smaller one, further south, is less crowded.
And when you enter from that side,
you can reach a small beach. Much less crowded.
Generally, groups arrive at the Main entrance and stay in that area.
On the wooden path overlooking it,
at the small beach, you’re on the beach—
the penguins too!
Ah OK. So it’s not *that* secret after all, since there were still quite a few people on this beach where we were 😄. Way fewer than on the other side—groups seemed to stick to that side—but still more humans than penguins (about ten). True, just us already makes 6 people!
Days 10, 11 & 12: We set off under a cloudy sky to see the penguins at Boulder's Beach. Quite a few people on the walkways, but the beach is quieter.
We continue to Cape Point National Park. The sky clears up. We stop at a picnic area that’s deserted except for a few ostriches. We’d barely settled in when we spot a baboon running toward us from a distance on the beach. We do the same but head straight for the car.
It circles the car before striking a photogenic pose in front of the sea.
We’ll have our picnic further away.
We head up to the lighthouse. Lots of people. Lovely 360° view. Everyone’s eyes are fixed on the same spot: a whale appears now and then. We walk to the Cape of Good Hope. An easy stroll along platforms with beautiful viewpoints where we don’t run into anyone except some Cape elands.
We return via Chapman’s Peak Drive. A stunning (toll) road along the cliff. Several spots where you can stop to admire the views.
The next day, Table Mountain is shrouded in mist—no luck today. We were supposed to go to Robben Island, but the site is closed for renovations. Instead, we take a boat trip from Hout Bay to see the seal colony on Duiker Island. The sea is pretty rough. Lots of seals lounging on the rocks.
We head to Cape Town via the coastal road. We visit the Waterfront (super touristy) and Bo-Kaap with its colorful houses.
For our last day in Cape Town, we finally see Table Mountain, but the cableway is closed due to wind! It’s a bummer—we won’t be able to go up. Unless we hike, but apart from my boys, no one’s really up for it. Big disappointment, even though we knew it wasn’t a sure thing given the unpredictable weather at this time of year. The real letdown is that we *could* have gone up on the first day and saved the gardens for later. Bad call on our part. Oh well, it happens 🤪.
We settle for another visit to the Waterfront to finish up what we missed yesterday and do some shopping at the big mall before heading to the airport in the mid-afternoon.
No Table Mountain, no Robben Island... looks like we’ll have to come back to visit Cape Town again !
It’s clear there are more Europeans than South Africans at the Waterfront.
Too bad about Lions Head…
A must-do in Cape Town!
In my opinion.
As for the baboons,
they’re a real nuisance there.
They try to manage them, but
the critters have figured out
how to open car doors,
shove people to get into vehicles,
and that there’s food in bags, etc.
Lots of incidents…
In the park and at every car stop in that area.
I'm talking about Lions Head
Because it’s a climb that’s neither too complicated nor risky
Still, you do need to be able to walk a bit
You circle the hill, which gives you a 360-degree view of the area
Table Mountain, Apostles, Cape Town, the ocean, and Robben Island
Since it’s lower, the cloud wave that clings to Table Mountain is less of an issue, and the wind doesn’t complicate things
Plus, you can turn back anytime
The climb up Table Mountain is more complicated and apparently less safe
Cape Town has also become less safe…
Another completely safe viewpoint
Signal Hill, where even locals come to watch the sunset… with a glass of white wine
Sundowners are a big deal here…
I’m saying this for those who’ll read your travel journal…
You’re right to mention those places—we got so focused on Table Mountain that we "forgot" everything else. And it’s not like we hadn’t read and reread trip reports. Just poor planning on our part.
It’s gonna make me regret it even more!
But it’s also another reason to go back 😄.
Days 13 & 14: The second part of our trip. After a peaceful drive to Blyde River Canyon via Dullstroom—reminding us of some small American towns—and the Long Tom Pass, we arrived in the Sabie area for 2 nights.
The scenery between Dullstroom and Sabie is stunning. The road has been redone, so it’s smooth with no potholes. We stopped at the Long Tom Cannon to see the cannon and the view, then ended the day at Mac Mac Falls, a pretty waterfall accessible after a short walk.
The next day, our first stop was Lisbon Falls. The guy at the entrance told us his card machine wasn’t working due to no signal, so cash only. Since we didn’t have the exact amount, we said we’d leave. And—oh, miracle—the signal came back! We left anyway. The same trick happened at Bourkes' Luck Potholes, but since we really wanted to visit, we insisted on trying the card machine. And—just like magic—it worked when we inserted our card. We must have a magic card .
So, we stopped at Berlin Falls, another pretty waterfall. Then Bourkes' Luck Potholes—well-maintained with a nice walk. We spent quite a while there. A vervet monkey approached while we were having lunch at the picnic area but stayed in the tree, pretty skittish. A little further on, a noisy group of vervets climbed into the back of parked pick-ups, probably looking for food. The parking lot signs warned to keep windows and doors closed, and luckily, they didn’t come near us.
We continued to Lowveld View, a beautiful free viewpoint. With the sky looking stormy, we didn’t go further. Stopped at Wonder View, also free, with a nice view of the valley despite the overcast sky. We skipped God’s Window and stopped a bit further down at a small parking spot in a recess. After a short walk, another lovely view of the valley.
I was absorbed in reading the older travel journals and just discovered yours. We’re starting to think about our 2026 vacation, and a return to South Africa is on our shortlist! Since we usually travel in July and the planned trip would be a Cape Town/Kruger combo, your journal really caught my interest. For now, I’m jotting down everything that might be useful—we’ll make decisions later.
I’ve already added Robberg Nature Reserve to our list of places to visit. I’d never heard of it before, so thanks for the discovery!
As for Kirstenbosch Gardens, is it really not worth it in July? I read in Rouquine’s journal that it’s not much better in December/January either. I guess the ideal time is between September and November, in spring. Still, Marati seemed to enjoy their visit in July… I’m having a hard time making up my mind now.
I’m also wondering if the penguins are around in large numbers all year or if there’s a season when they’re less common.
I know the rest of your itinerary, but I can’t wait to read your impressions and encounters in Kruger! 🙂
So glad this travel journal helped you discover new places! There’s just so much to see—it’s always tough to choose. Robberg Nature Reserve is absolutely stunning; I highly recommend it +++. Kirstenbosch Gardens must be gorgeous in full bloom, but July isn’t the best season. It’s still nice, but in my opinion, it’s not a must-see.
Now, onto Kruger 🙂.
Day 16: Kruger, the long-awaited park. It was love at first sight—just incredible, both the wildlife and the landscapes. We didn’t sleep inside the park due to budget reasons (4 nights just outside cost the same as one night inside at a similar comfort level), but staying overnight must be amazing, especially in the smaller camps. We had a picnic in Skukuza, and honestly, it wasn’t great—way too crowded.
We entered through Phabeni Gate, just 7 minutes from our hotel. The S1, a beautiful route teeming with wildlife (impalas, hippos, buffaloes, antelopes, eagles), took us to Skukuza, then we looped H1-1/S64/S4/S3. More amazing sightings there: giraffes, elephants, hyenas (including a mom with her newborns), zebras, and monkeys. A fantastic first day!
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March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Good evening Michel,
