Etna sans guide
by Tonytoon
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à tous,
Je serai a catane dans 2 jours
Je sais que ce sujet a déjà été traité, mais je n arrive pas à savoir si il existe un petit chemin sympa que l on pourrait prendre à la place du téléphérique
Du téléphérique jusque les 2900m on peut suivre la piste des 4x4 ça ok
Mais au delà de cette limite c'est guide obligatoire.
Je pense que Les agences proposent l ensemble du tour et non pas juste la dernière portion de l ascension.......
J attends vos bons plans😉
Merci a tous
Antho
Salut,
Si tu prends de l'autre côté, du nord, où il n'y a pas de téléphérique mais une piste, tu peux rejoindre le cratère. IL y a un panneau qui suggère qu'il est conseillé de ne pas y aller tout seul. Mais tu peux, en tout cas moi j'y suis allé de ce côté là.
Les italiens que j'ai rencontré ne prennent jamais de guide, c'est encore une arnaque à touriste !
Bonne route Francois
Si tu prends de l'autre côté, du nord, où il n'y a pas de téléphérique mais une piste, tu peux rejoindre le cratère. IL y a un panneau qui suggère qu'il est conseillé de ne pas y aller tout seul. Mais tu peux, en tout cas moi j'y suis allé de ce côté là.
Les italiens que j'ai rencontré ne prennent jamais de guide, c'est encore une arnaque à touriste !
Bonne route Francois
Bonjour,
On y est monté aujourd'hui.
Prendre la piste qui longe le funiculaire par la gauche jusqu'à l'arrivée de celui-ci, 30 euros d'économisé...
Après le funiculaire, suivre la piste des 4x4 et peu de temps après la quitter en coupant à gauche et monter tout droit. Vous êtes arrivé à 2900m sur le parking des bus 4x4 avec les cabanes des guides !
Soit vous êtes arrivé à 9h00/9h30 et c'est trop tard pour la montée en solo jusqu'en haut car les premiers groupes arrivent et les guides vont vous refouler si vous les suivez... Possibilité de payer 30 euros par personne s'il reste des places dans les groupes de 11h00 (20 personnes max par guide). Possibilité de réserver le matin à 8h30 à Sapienza et après il faut vite grimper pour le départ à 11h00... Ouf ! Sinon réserver la veille...
Sinon partir à 6h00, avec une belle lune on y voit bien même si le jour n'est pas tout à fait levé, pour arriver avant les guides et attaquer la montée finale interdite seul au monde (ou presque).
Le sentier est derrière le parking 4x4, avec des cordes et un panneau STOP pour marquer son début !
Pour la descente, passer sous les poteaux du funiculaire, sable volcanique très grossier, on s'enfonce, c'est mou, on peut la faire en courant !
Ah ! au fait, on a mi 2h30 pour arriver à 2900m sans trainer mais on est pas des grands sportifs non plus ! Compter encore 1h30 pour arriver au sommet.
Pour stationner sans payer (24h00 en camping-car 12 euros, 6 euros pour la journée en voiture), il y a quelques places gratuites au plus près du funiculaire à côté du refuge/hotel/restaurant, ça passe pour les voitures ou fourgonettes mais peut-être pas pour les camping-car car soumis à une ZTL. Prévoir d'acheter le ticket de parking dans les boutiques aux heures d'ouverture car pas d'horodateur (ne pas arriver trop tard quoi).
Sinon on a dormi juste avant Sapienza sur une des petites aires en bord de route qui sont parsemées le long de la montée vers le refuge.
Bonjour,
Pas de souci, je me sers de temps en temps de voyageforum pour trouver des bonnes idées et j'ai voulu apporter une contribution sur l'Etna qui pourra sûrement servir à d'autres personnes (notamment sur le fait de pouvoir prendre un guide seulement pour l'ascension finale).
Je donnerais aussi mon avis sur le Stromboli et le vulcano que nous allons faire bientôt.
Salutations.
Bonjour,
Savez-vous s'il est possible d'aller au refuge de Sapienza en ce moment (comme il semblerait que l'Etna soit en période d'éruption) ?
Savez-vous s'il est possible d'aller au refuge de Sapienza en ce moment (comme il semblerait que l'Etna soit en période d'éruption) ?
Bonjour,
On y est monté aujourd'hui.
Prendre la piste qui longe le funiculaire par la gauche jusqu'à l'arrivée de celui-ci, 30 euros d'économisé...
Après le funiculaire, suivre la piste des 4x4 et peu de temps après la quitter en coupant à gauche et monter tout droit. Vous êtes arrivé à 2900m sur le parking des bus 4x4 avec les cabanes des guides !
Soit vous êtes arrivé à 9h00/9h30 et c'est trop tard pour la montée en solo jusqu'en haut car les premiers groupes arrivent et les guides vont vous refouler si vous les suivez... Possibilité de payer 30 euros par personne s'il reste des places dans les groupes de 11h00 (20 personnes max par guide). Possibilité de réserver le matin à 8h30 à Sapienza et après il faut vite grimper pour le départ à 11h00... Ouf ! Sinon réserver la veille...
Sinon partir à 6h00, avec une belle lune on y voit bien même si le jour n'est pas tout à fait levé, pour arriver avant les guides et attaquer la montée finale interdite seul au monde (ou presque).
Le sentier est derrière le parking 4x4, avec des cordes et un panneau STOP pour marquer son début !
Pour la descente, passer sous les poteaux du funiculaire, sable volcanique très grossier, on s'enfonce, c'est mou, on peut la faire en courant !
Je me permets de rebondir sur ce message qui a été très utile aujourd’hui !!
Nous avons fait l’Etna sans guide en l’espace de 6 heures.
Au programme : -arrivée a 7h45 au refuge de Sapienza, il n’y avait absolument personne. On se gare au parking juste en dessous du téléphérique, gratuit ! C’est désert, aucune voiture, le téléphérique n’est pas ouvert. -début de la montée après les barrières sur la droite du téléphérique puis sur le début de la piste 4x4. Nous sommes seuls. On monte 100-200m de dénivelés puis on peut soit prendre à droite en dessous du téléphérique soit prendre tout droit. Prendre tout droit sinon on finit dans du sable (qui sera bien mieux pour la descente). -arrivée en haut du téléphérique à 8h30 au bout de 45 mins de montée -on prend la piste 4x4 puis à gauche on coupe tout droit vers le refuge des guides. A 2800m d’altitude des traces de neige, en août en Sicile !! -a 2700 on peut soit continuer tout droit à flanc de montagne soit prendre à gauche pour rejoindre 2 cratères. Les 2 solutions fonctionnent mais on se fatigue moins à flanc de montagne. On choisit cette option. -arrivée à 9h45 (au bout de 2h) à la cabane du guide à 2900 (Torre del filosopho). De premiers groupes arrivent avec des guides en parallèle. 2 allemands randonneurs comme nous viennent nous voir : les guides leur ont dit que la montée de l’Etna est strictement interdite sans guide -on essaie de se joindre à deux groupes, les guides nous communiquent que c’est impossible à 2900m, il fallait le faire en contrebas au refuge de sapienza....soit on redescend, soit on visite des cratères à 2900 et redescend... -on decide avec les allemands de quand même y aller et on suit les premiers groupes de loin. On arrive au fameux panneau stop (une simple ficelle...). Pas de quoi arrêter des italiens car on en voit 3 -4 partir seul sans se prendre de réflexions des guides -quand on veut y aller un guide nous crie dessus en nous demandant nos noms nos prénoms et nous sommant de répartir. Il explique ensuite en italien que de nombreux touristes sont morts sur l’Etna...de quoi impressionner un groupe munis de casques (inutiles a priori) et qui a payé 60 à 100€/tête vs gratuit sans guide^^ -finalement on voit passer un autre italien qui “Check” le guide qui est beaucoup Moins vindicatif. On décide d’y aller. On double tous les groupes et on prend sur la droite sur les pentes plus pentus direction la “bocca nuova” le cratère le plus proche. -on arrive au sommet (3400m) a 10h45...1400m de dénivelés en 3h :) ça décrasse, mais ça fait du bien !!! On est bien content d’être partis tôt. Pas mal de vent au sommet, on sort des pulls -cratère fumant, à priori si on ne commet pas d’imprudence pas d’énorme danger. On a un peu flippe quand un des allemands s’est enfoncé dans le sol en début d’ascension avec un petit trou de 10 cms et un peu de fumée qui sortait mais rien de grave -au sommet, on sympathise avec un randonneur italien, nous indique que le cratère est est déconseillé, trop actif. On fait un peu le tour de la boca nuova mais on va pas trop loin, pas mal de fumée et escarpé on préfère la jouer safe. Les groupes commencent tout juste à entamer l’ascension, d’une lenteur extrême ! -on prend quelques photos, grignote pour reprendre des forces puis on repart à 11h35. On arrive au téléphérique à 12h35 au bout d’une heure de descente, en faisant le tour des 2 cratères à 2900 (et après avoir encouragé un couple de français à franchir la barrière). -on finit sous le téléphérique en courant dans le sable...impression de dévaler la dune du pyla pour ceux qui connaissent !! Sable de plage ou presque. -13h, on arrive à la voiture et on pic nic. Le parking payant est plein. On a croisé plein de touristes au retour
L’impression d’avoir vécu un moment hors des sentiers battus sur un des endroits les plus touristiques d’Italie !!! On était 5 en haut de l’Etna à 10h30 et pour une heure.
Énorme fierté pour ma femme qui a marché avec beaucoup de courage dans la montée assez raide (on est habitués mais quand même).
Bref l’Etna sans guide, en partant tôt (7h-7h30) le matin (et en faisant un minimum gaffe quand même) on survalide!!!
Je me permets de rebondir sur ce message qui a été très utile aujourd’hui !!
Nous avons fait l’Etna sans guide en l’espace de 6 heures.
Au programme : -arrivée a 7h45 au refuge de Sapienza, il n’y avait absolument personne. On se gare au parking juste en dessous du téléphérique, gratuit ! C’est désert, aucune voiture, le téléphérique n’est pas ouvert. -début de la montée après les barrières sur la droite du téléphérique puis sur le début de la piste 4x4. Nous sommes seuls. On monte 100-200m de dénivelés puis on peut soit prendre à droite en dessous du téléphérique soit prendre tout droit. Prendre tout droit sinon on finit dans du sable (qui sera bien mieux pour la descente). -arrivée en haut du téléphérique à 8h30 au bout de 45 mins de montée -on prend la piste 4x4 puis à gauche on coupe tout droit vers le refuge des guides. A 2800m d’altitude des traces de neige, en août en Sicile !! -a 2700 on peut soit continuer tout droit à flanc de montagne soit prendre à gauche pour rejoindre 2 cratères. Les 2 solutions fonctionnent mais on se fatigue moins à flanc de montagne. On choisit cette option. -arrivée à 9h45 (au bout de 2h) à la cabane du guide à 2900 (Torre del filosopho). De premiers groupes arrivent avec des guides en parallèle. 2 allemands randonneurs comme nous viennent nous voir : les guides leur ont dit que la montée de l’Etna est strictement interdite sans guide -on essaie de se joindre à deux groupes, les guides nous communiquent que c’est impossible à 2900m, il fallait le faire en contrebas au refuge de sapienza....soit on redescend, soit on visite des cratères à 2900 et redescend... -on decide avec les allemands de quand même y aller et on suit les premiers groupes de loin. On arrive au fameux panneau stop (une simple ficelle...). Pas de quoi arrêter des italiens car on en voit 3 -4 partir seul sans se prendre de réflexions des guides -quand on veut y aller un guide nous crie dessus en nous demandant nos noms nos prénoms et nous sommant de répartir. Il explique ensuite en italien que de nombreux touristes sont morts sur l’Etna...de quoi impressionner un groupe munis de casques (inutiles a priori) et qui a payé 60 à 100€/tête vs gratuit sans guide^^ -finalement on voit passer un autre italien qui “Check” le guide qui est beaucoup Moins vindicatif. On décide d’y aller. On double tous les groupes et on prend sur la droite sur les pentes plus pentus direction la “bocca nuova” le cratère le plus proche. -on arrive au sommet (3400m) a 10h45...1400m de dénivelés en 3h :) ça décrasse, mais ça fait du bien !!! On est bien content d’être partis tôt. Pas mal de vent au sommet, on sort des pulls -cratère fumant, à priori si on ne commet pas d’imprudence pas d’énorme danger. On a un peu flippe quand un des allemands s’est enfoncé dans le sol en début d’ascension avec un petit trou de 10 cms et un peu de fumée qui sortait mais rien de grave -au sommet, on sympathise avec un randonneur italien, nous indique que le cratère est est déconseillé, trop actif. On fait un peu le tour de la boca nuova mais on va pas trop loin, pas mal de fumée et escarpé on préfère la jouer safe. Les groupes commencent tout juste à entamer l’ascension, d’une lenteur extrême ! -on prend quelques photos, grignote pour reprendre des forces puis on repart à 11h35. On arrive au téléphérique à 12h35 au bout d’une heure de descente, en faisant le tour des 2 cratères à 2900 (et après avoir encouragé un couple de français à franchir la barrière). -on finit sous le téléphérique en courant dans le sable...impression de dévaler la dune du pyla pour ceux qui connaissent !! Sable de plage ou presque. -13h, on arrive à la voiture et on pic nic. Le parking payant est plein. On a croisé plein de touristes au retour
L’impression d’avoir vécu un moment hors des sentiers battus sur un des endroits les plus touristiques d’Italie !!! On était 5 en haut de l’Etna à 10h30 et pour une heure.
Énorme fierté pour ma femme qui a marché avec beaucoup de courage dans la montée assez raide (on est habitués mais quand même).
Bref l’Etna sans guide, en partant tôt (7h-7h30) le matin (et en faisant un minimum gaffe quand même) on survalide!!!
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So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
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We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July. I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route. Can anyone give me some info on this? Thanks!
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July. I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route. Can anyone give me some info on this? Thanks!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance




