Pour ceux qui sont au Mali en ce moment ou qui vont s'y rendre dans les jours qui viennent :
"FSM Bamako : Les Alternatifs en direct !
Depression passagere sur Bamako
Un etrange climat domine ce debut de FSM polycentrique. Une temperature curieusement basse. Pas par rapport a Paris evidemment - il fait quand meme entre 15 et 20 degres - mais relativement aux moyennes habituelles.
Du cote mobilisation, tout le monde semble un peu engourdi encore.
Le grand moment hier a ete la manifestation d'ouverture: elle permet traditionnellement d'embrasser l'eventail des participants et de leurs luttes.
Le cortege avait rendez-vous au monument de l'Independance. Tout un symbole quand on pressent qu'une thematique fondamentale de ce FSM devrait etre la souverainete des peuples sur leur destin.
On retrouvait la une foule bigarree, mais moins nombreuse au depart qu'escompte.
Cote spectaculaire, 3 touaregs sur leurs dromadaires parvenaient a marcher du meme pas pour porter une banderole exigeant l'instauration d'un commerce equitable en Afrique. Ou encore des corteges de membres d'associations feminines toutes habillees de grands boubous blanc, chantant en canon derriere des banderolles en batik.
Les saharouis etaient en force, chantant et criant pour reclamer la liberation des prisonniers politiques recemment arretes dans ce pays - l'ex-Sahara espagnol - colonise par le Maroc. Non loin d'ailleurs de marocains venus eux-aussi en nombre, en particulier avec ATTAC Maroc, et arborant curieusement le drapeau Cheriffien. Une des contradictions du mouvement altermondialiste, ou tout le monde n'a pas encore tire une croix sur un nationalisme etroit.
Un mouvemet social malien actif et diversifie...
Les maliens dominaient cependant le cortege, avec notamment une importante delegation de syndicalistes du rail malien s'opposant a la privatisation. Ce veritable cordon ombilical qui relie Bamako a Dakar, et donc le pays a la route majeure du commerce international: seulement, cette privatisation sous l'egide des institutions internationales -FMI, BM, France- ne retient que la vocation transport de marchandises en negligeant totalement le desenclavement de tout l'Ouest malien - jusqu'a Kayes, premiere region d'emigration vers la France. Ainsi, pour preparer cette privatisation, de nombreuses gares locales ont ete fermees, supprimant des dessertes fondamentales pour la vie de cette region. Et les habitants en sont reduit, au sens propre, a voir passer des trains qu'ils ne peuvent plus prendre.
On percevait a travers cette manifestation la richesse et la diversite de la "societe civile" malienne: associations paysannes, forum des peuples - qui reunit chaque annee plus de 2000 personnes -, Comite pour l'annulation de la dette, de multiples associations de jeunesse, de femmes... En revanche, pas de partis politiques clairement identifies en tant que tels.
Les autres participants visibles etaient principalement les ONG, avec une forte composante d'origine chretienne: CCFD, Caritas, Emmaus - avec une delegation particulierement active d'un comite Pau-Bamako qui scandait alternativement en francais et en Bambarra des slogans tels que "Tous ensemble, tous ensemble...", "OGM, OMC, No Pasaran", "Un autre monde est possible, faisons le". La coordination des ONG francaises est comme lors des precedents FSM coordonnee par le CRID: lors d'une reunion la veille, Gus Massiah, son president, a salue les quelques 200 personnes venues ici a Bamako, soit de France, soit des organisations des pays partenaires a travers le Monde, d'Afrique bien-sur, mais aussi d'Asie et d'Amerique Latine.
Cote syndicats, quelques drapeaux de la CGT francaise - metallurgie et energie -, de SUD-solidaires, de la CGIL Italienne, du syndicat Chretien Belge, des médecins cubains en cooperation a Bamako ...
Quand a nous, la petite delegation des Alternatifs presents, nous avons defile derriere la banderolle des Forums Sociaux Locaux de la Region Parisienne, emmenee surtout par des FSL du Val de Marne - Ivry, Champigny..., et cote de camarades du reseau international No Vox, dont les membres francais les plus connus sont Droits Devant et le DAL.
Au sein des Alternatifs, les implications des un-e-s et des autres sont diverses, de l'organisation de seminaires sur la souverainete alimentaire et la regulation des marches des produits agricoles comme le coton - dans la suite des reunion de Porto Alegre l'an passe-, a la mise en place de reseaux de commerce equitable entre Afrique et Region Parisienne ou Bretagne, en passant par la coordination d'actions en faveur des sans papiers, ou pour contrer l'OMC. Cette delegation compte 2 personnes qui resident en Afrique et qui sont venues ici en particulier pour structurer l'Association des Amis du Monde Diplomatique qu'ils animent au Burkina: il s'agit de Blandine, la presidente, et de Christian, un des fondateurs de l'Association a Bobo Dioulasso.
Au hasard, on croisait egalement au long du cortege quelques drapeaux des Verts, des JC, des JCR, quelques responsable du PCF ou d'Alternative Citoyenne elus au Conseil Regional d'Ile de France.
Liberer la parole et agir ensemble
La manifestation est allee de symbole en symbole: au dessus de la Gare de la ligne en voie de privatisation, sous la colline de la residence presidentielle, sur la paroi de laquelle est accrochee une gigantesque banderolle "un autre monde est possible", jusqu'au stade omnisport qui est aussi le lieu du Campement International de la Jeunesse Thomas Sankara, le president du Burkina porteur de tant d'espoirs en Afrique et dans le Monde dans les annees 80, assassine par son compagnon qui est depuis president du pays avec l'appui tant de la France que de la Lybie.
A l'arrivee au stade, une surprise: des groupes de tambours et de danse. Les tambours du Burundi tout en rouge et vert; les danseurs - parfois tres jeunes de Guinee; et surtout les chasseurs Dogon - region de la Boucle interieure du fleuve Niger dans le haut Mali - avec leurs echasses, leurs coiffes a faire palir des Bigoudenes, leurs masques... et surtout leurs rythmes extremement prenants.
Et puis quelques discours bien sur. Le choix des intervenants est significatif de l'orientation de ce FSM polycentrique. La representante des Associations feminines paysannes maliennes, Fatou Diakite, qui a notamment declare: "vous etes partis loin de chez vous, vous etes ici chez vous. Le monde, c'est partout chez nous tous". Et ausi Ibrahim Soule, au nom des organisations de jeunesse, qui a clame son bonheur d'etre ici, "notamment pour liberer la parole des jeunes, la parole de l'Afrique", mais aussi pour "commencer a poser des jalons d'actes concrets ensemble".
Beau programme pour les rencontres, seminaires et manifestations qui demarrent reellement ce matin.
Il a en fait demarre des hier au soir par la projections de films dans le cadre de Cine Droit Libre. Apres Ilha das Flores que plusieurs d'entre nous avaient deja vu - un extraterrestre essaie de comprendre le systeme qui fait que coexistent des supermarches tres bien achalandes et des familles qui peuvent tout juste recuperer des dechets a Porto Alegre, un film qui est toujours censure au Burkina. Ce film, "Borry Bana, le destin fatal de Norbert Zongo" est une veritable enquete sur la mort du journaliste directeur d'un des plus importants journal "L'Independant": Comment, apres une enquete sur l'assassinat du chauffeur du frere du President, il se retrouve menace puis execute -brule vif- par la Garde Presidentielle. Et surtout comment, apres un mouvement social sans precedent dans ce pays a la suite de cet assassinat, des greves massives, des manifestations au cours de laquelle la gendarmerie tire a balles reelles sur la population, le President et sa clique sont parvenus a reprendre la main, avec l'aide en particulier de l'episcopat. Comment, de Commission d'enquete independante avec des personnalites d'opposition Burkinabes et d'autres pays, en Comite des Sages, puis en "journee du pardon et de reconciliation nationale", la contestation a ete canalisee puis totalement etouffee. Pourtant, tout espoir n'est pas mort. Chaque 13 décembre, des milliers de personnes continuent a commemorer la mort toujours impunie de Norbert Zongo. Et, comme l' souligne un professeur d'histoire senegalais lors du debat, les regimes nes dans le sang finissent toujours dans le sang. Plusieurs interpellations nous ont vises, nous en tant que militants du Nord: faisons- nous suffisamment pour denoncer le soutien de la France a ce type de regime?
Il est d'ailleurs temps qu'on y aille.
A demain!
Blandine et Philippe"
Salut et merci
J'étais moi même au sommet des altermondialistes qui s'ets tenu pendant le somme françafrique et je fais partie de Survie france.
je suis rentrée la mort dans l'âme 3 jours avant le FSM pour des raisons persos. Donc merci encore de nous faire vivre l'évènement en direct.
je connais le film BoriBana, qui a été passé en douce pendant le Fespaco à Ouaga, et invité à Bayonne au célèbre cinéma L'Atalante avec son réalisateur.
Je note les 3 touaregs qui réclament le commerce équitable ça me rassure, de mon passage récent dans la région de Kidal, je suis revenue avec l'impression que les touaregs que j'ai rencontrés se moquaient pas mal du commerce équitable car le commerce ils se le faisaient à leur main à travers les frontières, et sans passer par la case partage. Mais je suis sûre que je suis mal tombée, enfin ça existe aussi
A demain, je vous suis
Un forum vraiment populaire. La dispersion des 10 lieux dans lesquels se déroulent les débats ne facilitent pas les improvisations ni le passage d’une thématique à l’autre. En revanche, cela fait le bonheur des chauffeurs de taxi : les distances sont vraiment très longues pour être parcourues à pied le long des avenues pétaradantes, et les transports en commun (des minibus VW verts olive à la tôle découpée pour être plus accessibles en marche) strictement réservés aux initiés, les rabatteurs criant au passage, en bambara, leur quartier de destination.
Mais, plus sérieusement, cette dispersion a aussi un intérêt, d’ailleurs recherché par les organisateurs : il permet une véritable « infusion » du FSM dans la ville. Tant et si bien qu’il est fréquent qu’on nous interpelle dans la rue, à la vue de nos badges FSM, et pas seulement des militants a priori. Un marchand de son échoppe, un chauffeur de taxi, une cuisinière des rues peut ainsi nous demander « comment se passe le forum », « qu’est-ce qui se décide pour le coton ? », « à quelle heure Aminata Traore doit-elle intervenir ? »… D’autres bien sûr doivent vraiment se demander ce qui se passe avec tous ces babas toubabs qui se baladent là. Mais ceux-là ont le tact de ne pas nous le demander ! Dommage sans doute. Bon, j’exagère, car la TV et les radios locales FM, couvrent largement le forum et doivent bien participer à le populariser. Quant aux lieux, ils sont réellement ouverts : chacun entre là sans avoir eu à payer son inscription, celle si, même modique pour les ressortissants du Sud (1250 CFA ou 2 Euros), coûtant tout de même 2 kg de mil. Et les discussions s’engagent facilement. Mais le plus impressionnant reste le concert de Tiken Jah Fakoly de vendredi soir, qui a comblé le stade Modibo Keita, avec ses paroles tout à fait dans le ton du FSM, une vraie synthèse à lui tout seul, sur un reggae diablement entraînant. Enfin, comme on avait très faim, et qu’on avait un peu épuisé notre énergie dans la journée, on n’y a même pas assisté : ouououh pour nous! Quelques flashes d’ateliers qu’on a pu suivre les uns ou les autres. L’accès aux médicaments. Animé par 2 ex-salariées d’Avantis (du Centre de recherche de Romainville, en cours de fermeture), qui proposent une campagne pour un contrôle international des médicaments. Peu d’assistance dans ce lieu assez perdu au fin fond du Campus universitaire, mais un débat très animé autour des génériques, des « dons de médicaments » aux ONG (venant en particulier du système CYCLAMED en France) et ensuite de leur usage sans contrôle, voire de la destruction du système de santé local que cela provoque. Nathalie y reviendra ! 2 débats beaucoup plus suivis à la Bibliothèque nationale, avec environ 300 personnes chaque fois, sur « néolibéralisme en Afrique et « OGM ». Mais il faut dire que José Bové y intervenait, ceci expliquant peut-être cela. Et puis, il y avait aussi Roland ! Pour le premier, beaucoup de témoignages d’associations de pêcheurs, de producteurs de cotons ou vivriers, de syndicalistes des mines d’Afrique du Sud… Pour le 2ème, 2 exposés très pédagogiques de généticiennes, 1 béninoise, et 1 malienne. La première a écrit un ouvrage avec l’Association Grain, sur lequel on reviendra. On y a appris en particulier que le Burkina sert aujourd’hui de cheval de Troie pour le coton BT (OGM « résistant » naturellement aux pucerons). Et que le Gouvernement Compraoré, avec le soutien de Monsanto, a fait venir des agriculteurs Sud-Africain qui avaient commencé à le cultiver pour convaincre la Confédération Paysanne Burkinabe (qui n’a pas grand chose à voir avec son homologue française, se méfier des contrefaçons). Des intervenants ont suggéré de trouver des fonds pour faire revenir les mêmes témoins sud-africains pour les faire témoigner 2 ans après, avec la résistance des pucerons qui est apparue, et des endettements monstrueux de beaucoup d’entre eux pour se payer les semences et les produits phytosanitaires supplémentaires alors que les cours du coton baissent. Blandine a participé à un séminaire très dur selon elle sur les violences faites aux femmes. Où, paradoxalement, les femmes ont aussi été mises en accusation, en tous cas celles qui excisent, qui marient de force leurs filles… Mais d’autres ont insisté sur la domination des femmes, par les maris, ou par les autorités traditionnelles, masculines celles-ci, qui ne leur donnent pas vraiment le choix. Ce qui reste très impressionnant ici à Bamako, c’est la considérable mobilisation des associations féminines pour nous français. Nathalie fera un compte-rendu et a fait des interviews qui figureront dans le journal. Toujours à propos d’initiatives féminines, l’atelier organisé par le Forum Social Local d’Ivry et Consom’Solidaire a permis d’en faire ressortir énormément. Un atelier foisonnant, où on a parlé aussi bien des initiatives au Nord et au Sud, de leurs rapports éventuels, des problèmes de monnaies… avec en particulier les interventions de William (AMAP Paris Sud) et de Martine (SEL Vannes, coopérative d’achat, Jardins solidaires). Et à la mise en procès des « micro-crédits ». Là encore, on y reviendra plus à fond. Les Alternatifs ont organisé en tant que tel 2 ateliers. L’endroit assigné ne facilitait a priori pas les choses : sous les cocotiers de la maison des jeunes, entre le bar et les étals des cuisinières, dans un lieu nommé « point G ! ». Donc pas facile de se concentrer dans ce lieu de passage. Mais finalement, on a réussi à retenir des gens qui passaient pour d’autres raisons.
Côté intervenants sur la souveraineté alimentaire, à part Michel, Malik Sow, représentant sénégalais des agriculteurs agro-pastoraux, Jean Cabaret, représentant les éleveurs à la Confédération Paysanne Française… et puis aussi bien d’autres témoignages de représentants de paysans mauritaniens, maliens, burkinabe, éthiopiens, de syndicalistes kenyans ou maliens « ajustés », de militants d’ONG… On est largement revenus sur l’articulation entre les luttes à l’échelle nationale (partiellement victorieuse pour les producteurs d’arachide au Sénégal contre la baisse de prix après la privatisation de la filière ; inscription de l’objectif de souveraineté alimentaire dans la constitution malienne… mais pour l’instant sans trop de traduction concrète), les luttes internationales (bilan très mitigé de Hong-Kong malgré une très forte mobilisation, en particulier de Via Campesina), les revendications d’un autre équilibre des marchés internationaux.
Une problématique proche a été abordée sous un autre angle aujourd’hui avec un 2ème séminaire sur la régulation des marchés internationaux de produits agricoles. Avec encore d’autres intervenants, plus les mêmes, et notamment une intervention extrêmement pédagogique d’un économiste togolais, liant les politiques d’ajustement structurel, monétaires (avec l’emprise des banques françaises sur l’UEMOA, institut d’émission du F CFA dans la région, qui impose « O déficit budgétaire », pire que les critères de Maastricht chez nous), insécurité sur les marchés, appauvrissement et exode rural… Difficile de relater en quelques lignes la richesse de tous ces débats là, et encore d’autres même pas évoqués ici. Maintenant, en cette presque fin de forum, se pose encore la sempiternelle question : et demain ? Avec une forte envie de coordonner au moins un calendrier de luttes et de mobilisation pour les prochains mois : contre la fin du cycle de Doha à l’OMC, contre la signature des accords de partenariat économique entre UE et pays ACP (Afrique, Caraïbe, Pacifique), au moment de la Conférence des Nations Unies sur le Climat et ses demis mesures proposées etc. Demain, suite et fin pour Bamako… A vous Caracas !. Nathalie et Philippe
FSM Bamako vu par les Alternatifs -4
> FSM: une premiere etape franchie dans l'allegresse
>
> Au cours de la manifestation de cloture hier, dans le stade
> Modibo Keita, les
> intervenants sont revenus sur ce premier Forum Social a une
> echelle mondiale
> en Afrique.
>
> Bernard Pinaud, du CRID (collectif de 50 ONG francaises, tres
> implique dans
> l'organisation des FSM), a rappelle que lorsqu'en janvier 2005
> il avait ete
> decide de tenir un FSM "polycentrique" dans 3 lieux de 3
> continents differents, beaucoup avaient considere qu'il
> s'agissait d'une idee folle.
> "Et bien, le premier triangle de cette nouvelle
> tri-continentale a ete un
> franc succes, avec 20 000 inscrits, dont 1/2 de maliens, 1/4
> d'autres
> ressortissants africains, et 1/4 de non-africains. Et, en ce
> moment meme, 70000 personnes sont en train de s'inscrire a
> Caracas".
>
> Tous ont insiste sur
> l'excellent travail realise dans des conditions
> difficiles par le collectif d'oragnisation de ce FSM de
> Bamako, malgre
> quelques couacs inevitables dans ce pays tres pauvre.
>
> Et ce comite de remercier largement les soutiens recus:
> certains ne
> surprendront personne, comme celui du Gouvernement Venezuelien
> (pres de la
> moitie du budget d'apres des rumeurs a verifier), d'une
> kyrielle d'ONG
> internationales, comme NOVIB (NL), OXFAM-Belgique, CCFD -
> France..., mais
> aussi du Gouvernement du Mali, qui a mis a disposition
> l'ensemble des
> infrastructures. Ce dernier a d'ailleurs ete chaleureusement
> applaudi par
> toute l'assistance, altermondialistes les plus libertaires
> compris.
>
> Ce consensus ne s'est pas exprime pour d'autres soutiens
> financiers, qui ont
> tout juste recu quelques applaudissements polis, comme la
> Cooperation
> francaise, suisse ou canadienne, ou encore le Gouvernement
> Catalan.
>
> Taoufik Ben Abdallah, membre du comite international des FSM
> et aussi de celui
> du FS Africain, par ailleurs membre d'une tres importante ONG
> africaine (ENDA
> Tiers Monde), a lui aussi insiste sur la dimension africaine,
> "avec plus de 40
> pays du Continent representes". Pour lui, commence une annee
> cruciale d'ici le
> FSM prochain prevu a Nairobi, au Kenya, en janvier 2007: "nous
> avons 1 an pour
> elaborer une charte de l'unite et du futur de l'Afrique".
>
> Passer des debats ouverts et autogeres a un programme d'action
> en commun ?
>
> Toujours selon lui, il devient urgent de passer d'un espace de
> debats a un
> "espace d'action collective pour l'emancipation mondiale, a
> construire
> ensemble de veritables strategies de changement". S'agit-il la
> d'un retour a
> la tentative d'elaborer un "consensus des FSM" pour faire
> piece au "Consensus
> de Washington des tenants du monetarisme et de
> l'ultraliberalisme"? On pensait
> pourtant cette option ecartee depuis l'an passe, apres l'echec
> de l'appropriation collective des "12 propositions de Porto
> Alegre". Mais les choses semblent evoluer, comme le prouve la
> participation d'opposants a cette ligne a l'initiative
> organisee par leurs tenants juste avant l'ouverture du FSM,
> lors d'un seminaire nomme "Bandung: 50 ans apres" (reference a
> l'acte de naissance du mouvement des non-alignes a
> l'invitation de Sukarno en Indonesie).
>
> La fin de la ceremonie a ete une vraie mise en scene du
> pan-africanisme
> renaissant, avec un passage de temoin a une vingtaine de
> kenyans presents,
> qui ont fait chante et danse l'assistance "NAWATI NISSARA",
> dont je vous
> laisse deviner la traduction en francais. Et un avertissement:
> "vous etes
> toutes et tous invites a Nairobi en 2007. Mais soyez prets a
> changer, soyez
> prets a une experience speciale...".
>
> Un autre rendez-vous africain en 2007
>
> Un peu avant, Jose Bove, courtise comme jamais, avait annonce
> la tenue d'un
> FSM thematique specifiquement consacre a la souverainete
> alimentaire en
> fevrier 2007, ici meme au Mali. Cette idee est nee dans les
> tetes des membres
> de Via Campesina grace aux tres nombreux contacts noues ici
> avec les
> organisations paysannes: On estime qu'il y avait pres de 8000
> representants de
> ces OP ici. Ce theme est fondamental sur un continent dont 70
> a 80 pour cent
> de sa population est rurale.
>
> L'idee est de montrer qu'il existe une alternative paysanne, a
> base de reforme
> agraire, de regulation des echanges a l'echelle nationale,
> regionale et
> mondiale, et de refus du productivisme et tout
> particulierement des OGM. Les
> Alternatifs en seront bien-sur, inch Allah...
>
> Cote figures emblematiques de l'altermondialisme, etaient la
> en bonne place
> Aminata Traore (ecrivain, ancienne Ministre de la Culture du
> Mali), Aminata Toure (presidente de la tres importante
> coalition des associations feminine au Mali et du Forum des
> Peuples) et aussi Madjiguene Cisse (senegalaise, porte-parole des
> sans-papiers de Saint Bernard, qui avaient ete expulse de
> cette eglise du
> 18eme arrondissement de Paris il y a une dizaine d'annee).
>
> Un trio doublement symbolique. D'abord de la force des
> association feminine et
> de leur prise de parole dans ce FSM (beaucoup plus de la
> moitie des
> participants etaient des femmes). Ensuite, de l'importance de
> la thematique de
> l'emigration dans ce forum. D'ailleurs, Jose l'a dedie "aux
> refoules de Ceuta
> et de Mellila".
>
> Si la libre-circulation des personnes semble faire consensus,
> il n'en est pas
> de meme de l'emigration des forces vives de ce continent, qui
> semble etre
> generalement percue comme un pis-aller.
>
> Un spectacle de danse tres emouvant peut resumer a lui seul ce
> FSM: des
> danseurs emergeant de tres larges corolles jaunes, vertes,
> bleues, rouges sous
> un chant lancinant a capella, tels des hommes emergeant de la
> glaise qui les
> retient prisonnier. Un 9eme rentre sur scene, semblant
> chevaucher des flots
> liberateurs. Les danseurs tournent alors sur eux-memes jusqu'a
> prendre
> silhouette humaine.
>
> Pour paraphraser la delegue kenyane:
> Longue vie a l'Afrique,
> Longue vie a l'Humanite,
> Vive le FSM.
>
> Philippe, dernier alternatif encore a Bamako
>
L'autre jour j'ai pris un Bani de Sevaré à Bko, et ily avait "l'essor" du 25 janvier qui trainait...
Il y avait un long article qui exposait à quel point certans avaient profité du sommet, économiquement, et pas n'importe qui svp :
Le Sofitel, le Farouk, et le Mandé (les 3 palaces de la ville à 150€ la nuit) ont connu des taux de remplissage de plus de 80 %, grâce au FSM
Le prix des courses en taxi a pris une secousse de 200 %, et a du mal a revenir à la normale...
Est-ce que ça serait possible de donner quelques exemples concrets de ce qu'ont apporté les forums sociaux précédents ? On en entend toujours parler mais à part des réunions, meetings et autres conférences je n'ai jamais entendu parler d'actions concrètes. je ne dis pas qu'il n'y en a pas eu, mais si c'est le cas j'aimerais bien les connaitre.
Question qui risque d'etre embarrassante,
mais si tu lis un peu les rapports annuels de certaines ONG, la participation à ce genre de manifs, est considéré comme des "actions sur le terrain".
En billets d'avion et en hébergement, ça chiffre !
J'ai cru comprendre que, depuis l'an dernier, le fait de passer réellement à des actions concrètes était l'objet de grands débats parmi les participants à ces forums : en particulier la question du passage à une action politique plus "visible" (participation à des scrutins, etc).
Doit-on en déduire qu'il n'y a pas eu d'actions concrètes (ou peu) et que ces forums étaient avant tout des lieux de discussion ? A toi de voir...
Quelqun a-t-il une idée de où on peut se procurer la programmation des activités du forum? parce que sur le site internet, il n'y a ni date, ni heure, ni lieu?…
Afrique de l'Ouest et du Centre › Bénin / Mali · 15 replies
Je vais à Bamako pour le forum social mondial, avec mon epouse, du 16 au 26 janvier. 1) quelqu'un sait-il où se déroule cet évènement?? 2) Je cherche un…
Pour la première fois l'Afrique accueille le Forum Social Mondial, après les Forums Mondiaux de Porto Alegre et Monbay. Problèmes de la dette, de l'économie…
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie
