Bonjour
J'envisage de faire une boucle d'un mois en Bretagne.
Je veux visiter la Bretagne touristique avec les immanquables mais aussi, et c'est le but de ma demande, de découvrir une Bretagne qu'on ne trouve pas dans les guides touristiques, des endroits secrets en quelque sorte, seulement connus des locaux.
Pour information, les dénivelés ne me font pas peur et pour dormir je bivouaque dans la nature ou j'utilise les réseaux d'hospitalité. Merci d'avance pour les infos.
david
si vous voulez un coin de bretagne bien sauvage avec des petites routes très étroites bordées de petites maisons de granit, un coin que j'affectionne particulièrement est Doelan (lorient sortie guidel puis clohars carnoet) vous avez un petit port encore très authentique avec l'arrivage des bateaux à partir de 16 h où vous pouvez achetez encore votre poisson et en ce moment .. des langoustines !!! la lande et la cote est superbe ourlée de petites criques. On parle de chemin ici plutot que de route quand on sort de Doelan direction Thamec ou la route s'arrête pour la piste qui rejoint une petit presqu'ile.
Bonjour , Doëlan est un magnifique petit port, mais à savoir que la côte sud de la Bretagne est particulièrement envahie cet été !
La Bretagne insolite, tu la trouveras plutôt vers le Centre Bretagne, terre de légendes, peuplées de Korrigans, tourbières, landes, forêts, rochers magiques ( voir Huelgoat ), dolmens , menhirs et cromlec'h, forêt de Brocéliande, les monts d'Arrée...
Bref, la côte c'est bien ( pointe st mathieu avec vue sur les îles de Molène et Ouessant), la pointe du Raz , avec vue sur l'île de sein, sans oublier la presqu'île de Crozon, puis le pays bigouden, Penmarc'h, Pont-l'abbé, la cornouaille, Quimper, concarneau, Pont Aven , Quimperlé.
En bref, sur un mois , le plus " logique " serait peut être d'arriver à Brest ( très belle rade ), puis descendre la côte vers le sud, après avoir vu la pointe St Mathieu, jusqu'à la Laîta ( Clohars-Carnoët ). Après , c'est plutôt campings 4 ****, - boites de nuit, foule +++. " Monter " par Rosporden ( voie verte n° 7 ) jusqu'à Carhaix-Plouguer, puis le choix:-1) voie verte n°6 vers Gouarec, Loudéac, St Méen le Grand ( prononcer st min ! ), puis voie n° 3 vers Dinard et st Malo.Redescendre par voie verte n° 2 jusqu'à Rennes et retour maison. :-2) De Carhaix , canal de Nantes à Brest, direction Nantes en passant par Pontivy, Rohan, Josselin, ( 3 châteaux ), puis prendre la voie n° 3 vers Ploërmel, St Méen Le Grand , Dinard , St Malo....
Tu peux commander gratuitement la carte des voies vertes de Bretagne auprès de l'office régional du tourisme de Bretagne, voir : www.rando-breizh.com et acheter le bouquin " la Bretagne par les voies vertes de Michel Bonduelle , aux éditions Ouest-France, descritifs des parcours , curiosités, adresses des OT, informations culturelles, + carte des voies vertes fournie avec le bouquin.
Ah ! Ne pas oublier, indispensable : En Bretagne , toujours apporter avec soi, son ciré et ses lunettes de soleil !!!
Bon séjour en Armorique,
Jacques.
"Doëlan est un magnifique petit port, mais à savoir que la côte sud de la Bretagne est particulièrement envahie cet été !"
Justement j'en reviens, et j'ai été très étonnée du peu de touristiques dans ce petit coin. Bien sur ! ne pas aller dans les villes Concarneau - le pouldu etc... mais en dehors vraiment pas la foule même en pleine saison.
Et justement si , j'habite dans le coin , bien sûr ce n'est pas la fréquentation de la côte d'azur, mais c'est beaucoup trop pour la capacité d'absorbtion ( voitures entre autres ) du territoire local ! Et puis ça dépend à quelle heure vous êtes venue ! Pas un bon coin pour les vélos en tous cas, beaucoup trop de conducteurs ignorent ( Finistériens en tête d'ailleurs !) qu'un vélo ça se double à 1,50 m sur la route et 1 m en ville... ( dixit le code de la route ) et non pas 20 cm !!!!
Merci Jacques d'avoir pris le temps de me proposer un itinéraire. Le lien est très intéressant, je vais étudier ça de week-end.
Quelqu'un peut-il me renseigner sur l'état des voies vertes ? Sont-elles roulantes, en bon état, avec beaucoup de barrières ?
C'est plutôt prévu pour le début de l'automne donc je ne devrais pas trop être embêté par les touristes.
La voie verte entre carhaix et morlaix est très sympa! Elle est en stabilisé, c'est assez roulant, bon sauf s'il pleut, là ça devient un peu plus dur!
Un arrêt au chaos d'huelgoat, c'est sympa quoique surement envahi de touristes à cette saison? (et le camping la rivière d'argent est bien et pas trop cher...et tout près de la voie verte)
Moi j'ai fait ce trajet fin mai, et on a vraiment eu l'impression d'être seul au monde... je ne sais pas comment c'est en plein été?
mais de toute façon pour ne pas avoir trop de touristes dans les pattes, il faut éviter la côte sud, dans le nord c'est déjà un peu plus calme!
Et Morlaix c'est pas mal... ouh là un peu de chauvinisme je suis de là bas...😛
Les monts d'arrée ça vaut le coup d'oeil aussi, la montagne saint michel, l'allée couverte du mougaut à commana, les portes de l'enfer... J'ai passé du temps par là bas avec mes grands-parents et franchement l'été c'est tranquille! y'a plein de bretons qui ne connaissent pas d'ailleur!!!
Surtout ne pas oublier de manger du kig ha farz (très rapprochant du pot au feu, mais en meilleur😉 ) des crêpes et du kouign amann (à locronan, on en trouve du très bon, mais là attention aux touristes! il faut y aller hors saison car c'est un p'tit village magnifique!).
Voilà n'hésites pas si tu as des questions!
Céline, une bretonne exilée en normandie...
oups je viens de me rendre compte que tu as prévu ton périple en automne... c'est bien tu seras tranquille, les touristes en automne y'en a plus! donc tu peux tenter locronan, huelgoat (gros défi, faire bouger la roche tremblante😛 ) ce sera très bien!
Je pense pour ma part que la Bretagne s'apprécie mieux à pied par le GR34 qu'a vélo. Car à cause de son relief toumenté, les routes sont souvent en retrait de la côte.
Bonjour , oui , les voies vertes sont bien roulantes , avec un VTC par exemple , tu passes sans problème, le revêtement est constitué de sable ou de terreau bien compacté, quelquefois du goudron un peu grossier voir rugueux ( pas le beau macadam d'une nationale pour vélo de course ), mais ça passe bien partout.
Les voies vertes sont differrement obstruées de barrières :
- Les anciennes voies ferrées en ont peu pour la voie n° 6, beaucoup pour la voie n° 7.
- Le canal de Nantes à Brest, peu de barrières dans le Finistère et le Morbihan, mais dans le 22 , ils sont très généreux !
Mais , cela ne s'avère pas un problème , avec un peu d'expérience tu les franchiras sans trop de mal, ( je les passe avec un tandem + remorque bob yack en gros une fois sur deux ou trois , sans mettre pied à terre. C'est le prix à payer pour ne pas subir les voitures et quads.
Ce sont de beaux parcours, et, en s'écartant de la voie verte ou du canal , il y a de quoi visiter.
Bon voyage !
Jacques.
Merci Jacques pour les précisions.
Je ne suis pas un fana des voies vertes (je me lasse souvent) mais je vais faire un bout de chemin sur certaines d'entre elles.
J'ai vu que l'aménagement du canal de Nantes à Brest n'était pas totalement fini. C'est quand même possible de l'emprunter entre Carhaix et Rohan ?
Je viens de faire un petit morceau du canal de Nantes à Brest, en boucle avec d'autres voies, et entre Carhaix et Pontivy, pas de problème. J'ai rencontré quatre cyclos qui venaient d'Angers par le canal dans sa totalité, ils m'ont assuré que ça passait bien partout. Les tronçons " non aménagés " , sont en fait un terme administratif : A terme , la totalité de la voie sur berges sera reconnue comme une " voie verte" . Le terme voie verte dans son intégralité oblige à trouver le long de ce cheminement, ravitaillements, hébergements, et magasins de cycles-réparation de cycles.
Si un tronçon du parcours n'offre pas l'ensemble de ces prestations , il ne peut revendiquer le label voie verte.
Mais je peux t'assurer qu'entre Carhaix et Rohan, tu trouveras aisemment , hébergement, ravitaillement, réparateurs de cycles à Carhaix, Gouarec, Pontivy. Peut être même à Mur de Bretagne ( lac de Guerlédan) mais là, je ne suis pas sûr pour le magasin de cycles.
Mais il est sûr que l'on passe absolument en vélo sur l'ensemble des 360 km du canal.
N'hésites pas si tu as des questions, je m'efforecerais de te renseigner.
Bonne préparation.Cordialement,
Jacques.
j'habite dans les Cotes d'Armor et je circule pas mal en Bretagne
il y a plein de possibilité de petites routes sympaths , l'ideal st la carte IGN bleu avec un vélo dessus
si tu n'es pas encore parti , dis moi dans quel secteur tu souhaites aller et combien de km tu fais par jour
je loge en priori en camping mais les bivouacs sont possibles dans beaucoup d'endroits
A+
il est possible de faire le tour de la bretagne et de longer plus ou moins la cote en restant à qlq km , c'est moins frequenté et cela permet de temps en temps de prendre un bain de mer et de voir la cote
ex: paimpol a moralix
en passant par loguivy, pleumeur gautier, treguier, la roche jaune, baie de l'enfer, plougrescant , gouremel, penvenan, trevou treguignec, trelevern et lannion en empruntant que petites routes et ne prendre les departementales que pour traverser les villes
c'est pas tout droit mais sympath
qlq ex en allant sur site trevou treguignec ou office du tourisme cotes des ajoncs ( plougrescant)
Au mois d’août avec mon épouse et mon fils nous envisageons de faire une partie du canal, notre périple en 4 jours serais de Rohan à Redon env 90 KM. nous ne…
Je suis nouvelle sur le forum, je souhaiterais découvrir la Bretagne à vélo cet été avec mon mari. Avant de se lancer sur des grands voyages à vélo, nous…
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.