Bonjour,
Cet été je souhaite faire l'eurovélo 6, de Nantes à Costanta, qui longe notamment le Danube. Je recherche conseils sur carte, guides sur le sujet et informations sur les pistes cyclables, le balisage, le parcours. Je connais le site mais vou sremercie pour toute autre info qui pourrait m'éclairer .
Mat
je ne viens hélas pas vous apporter des renseignements, mais...en demander!
Je n'avais jamais entendu parler des itinéraires "Europa": qu'est-ce que c'est, Où peut-on en trouver des détails, cartes etc???
meric et j'espère que qqn d'autre vous aiderab bientôt
dominique
et pour tant de beauté, Merci et chapeau bas ! (Barbara)
tu peux trouver un petite partie du parcours ( Nantes-Orléans) dans ce livret " Loire-Radweg" .
ca n'existe malheureusement qu'en allemand.
voir le site http://www.esterbauer.com/
Bonjour
Cet été nous partons également faire l'eurovelo6. Nous partirons de Bale ou de ulm car nous n'aurons pas le temps de faire plus. Pour ce qui est des cartes, je vais juste acheter le guide conseillé sur le site "eurovelo6" pour la partie après Belgrade. Avant, je pense que ce sera bien balisé. Evidemment, je ne peux pas t'aider puisque nous ne l'avons pas encore fait. En revanche, j'aimerais savoir si tu compte revenir en vélo ou si tu as trouvé un moyen de transport pour le retour ? Ca ne m'a pas l'air vraiment facile au niveau des transports!
Merci si tu peux m'aider
je fais remonter ce vieux sujet pour avoir des retours d'expériences sur ce trajet Nantes - Constanta.
Comment était-ce ?
Combien de temps faut-il prévoir pour faire tout ce trajet ? J'ai des envie de mer Noire pour 2008...
Pour le retour tu peux prendre un bus de toutes les grandes villes de roumanie jusqu' aux grandes villes française!
Deux compagnies à ma connaissance Eurolines et Atlassib
un aller simple environ 100 euros.
Atlassib est une compagnie Roumaine oû des que tu vas monté dans le bus tu seras dépaysé.
un peu moins chere que Eurolines mais plus de risques de retard.
Comptes au minimum 36 h
les retards sont normaux sur une si longue distance.
Préviens quand même à l 'avance que tu auras un vélo !
good trip
tom
Pour l'avoir fait en partie cet ete Annecy -passau-Budapest, nous avons de loin préféré la traversée de la Baviere pour rejoindre Salzburg, ensuite le long du Danube c'est quand meme super monotone. Ideal pour des gens peut entrainné car c'est tout plat
de Vienne à Buda, ca devennait vraiment super monotone
pas besoin de carte, il ya des balises partout on ne peut pas se tromper
Il y avait un topic la dessus, qui disait qu'il fallait acheter les topos, je les ai acheté (en version us ) et franchement c'est pas super utile, bref je les revends
Comme le disent les autres réponses, tu peux trouver pas mal d'infos sur internet, voir meme commander les guides.
Pour ma part j'ai effectué le trajet Bratsilava, danaueshingen (source du danube). J'ai acheter les guides dans des librairies sur place, les cartes sont tres bien faites. Le parcours est aussi tres bien balisé.
En revanche, d'apres les infos lues sur le net, le tracé apres budapest est moins évident.
Salut, je rentre juste d'un voyage à vélo de 2 mois où j'ai traversé la Slovenie, la Hongrie, la Roumanie, la Bulgarie, la Grece, etc..;
j'ai donc traversé le Danube une première fois en Hongrie, et une seconde fois en Roumanie pour la Bulgarie, aprés l'avoir longé sur une centaine de km en faisant une petite incursion en Serbie Macedoine pour gagner quelque km (c'est très clair sur une carte).
Les routes sont en pleine réfection le long du fleuve mais il y a un gros problème que j'ai rencontré, ce sont les nombreux chiens sauvages qui déboulent de la montagne. Je m'étais munis d'un bâton pour essayer de m'en débarrasser, pas toujours facile.J'étais seul mais je pense qu'à plusieur c'est moins éprouvant.
En tout cas je te souhaite un super moment avec ton vélo, a plus Jean Marie
Je remonte le sujet pour poser cette fois une question sur le type de routes rencontrées sur l'Eurovélo 6. Est-ce qu'il s'agit de pistes cyclables ? S'agit-il de routes type départementales ? J'imagine que c'est un mix alors quelle proportion de l'un ou de l'autre ? La totalité du parcours est-elle goudronnée ?
Cette dernière question est particulièrement importante pour moi car je compte l'emprunter cet été entre Paray Le Monial et Regensburg avec un vélo de course. Je pourrais éventuellement changer mes pneus 23c pour des 28c mais c'est loin d'être un vélo adapté aux chemins non-goudronnés.
Perso pour un voyage en velo meme sur autoroute je ne partirai pas en 23c, ce que tu gagnes en rendemment tu le perds quand même en confort, et puis si tu voyages à velo c'est que tu n'est pas si pressé que ca, alors le rendement...
Nous avons suivi le danube de Passau à Budapest cet été de mémoire c'est plutot goudronné, mais parfois les routes ne sont pas en super état, surtout apres Vienne.
je ne partirai pas en 23c, ce que tu gagnes en rendemment tu le perds quand même en confort, et puis si tu voyages à velo c'est que tu n'est pas si pressé que ca, alors le rendement...
Je me suis peut-être mal fait comprendre, je ne pars pas en 23c par choix. Et le rendement sur ce trajet est le dernier de mes soucis.
C'est juste que c'est la configuration que j'ai en ce moment, un vélo de course en 23c, et que je n'ai pas du tout d'argent pour investir dans un nouveau vélo.
bonjour, nous avons fait une partie de l'eurovelo6 st naraire passau et desirons continuer cet été.
Pouvez vous nous donner des infos sur le reste du trajet si vous y etes arrive.
Comment etes vous rentrez?
Merci
Bonsoir Madsnail
J'ai fait l'euro-vélo n°6 au départ de Lorient en mai et juin 2007.
Mon vélo est monté avec des roues de 700 et des pneus de 28.
C'était parfois un peu glissant après la pluie, mais rien d'extraordinaire.
Je me souviens d'une portion avec de gros gravillons avant Gyor en Hongrie où là c'était difficile. Je disposais de 4 sacoches et d'un boudin étanche, le tout pesait environ 25 kg. Jusqu'à Ratisbonne, pour moi il n'y a aucun problème, ça passe très bien avec des pneus de 28.
Bonne route
Point de vu trajet, il y a encore du travail d'aménagement à faire en France, mais on progresse. Point de vue balisage, c'est comme dans les autres pays europésn on a la meilleure et les pires des choses. Se méfier beaucoup des kilométrages indiqués -:)
Sinon, ma partie préférée a été entre Digoin et Nevers, car là on est encore en terrain "vierge" de touristes, même si le halage est parfois en mauvais état on profite de la nature a fond!
A vélo vous y seriez déjà, en Trike ou en VD!
VD : Koga Myata VC : Trice QNT
je souhaite aussi faire le trajet de eurovelo6 si vous avez des conseils sur les trajets, les cartes et surtout sur le trajet retour en train ou avion je suis preneuse merci
Je l'ai fait avec des amis il y a 2ans (Besançon-Vienne)
Globalement, jusqu'a Mulhouse pas tout le temps de la piste cyclable, ensuite ça roule bien le long du Rhin...le plus difficile c'est de rejoindre Donauschingen (18km de cote sans piste cyclable) Ensuite les gorges depuis la source, y'a pas mal de chemin en gravier) mais le début c'est super beau.(on traverse peu de village donc prévoir les campings avant en fonction du trajet.
Après c'est du gourdon tout le long.
On a pris le train à entre sigmaringen et ulm jusqu'a Passau avec arret à Munich (sur les conseils d'autres cyclistes qui remontaient) apparemment c'est très monotone (champ de mais) Le weekend end en allemagne tu as des billets de train pour 35euros sans limitation de distance et que tu sois seul ou jusqu'à 5 personnes... c'est super avantageux (d'ailleurs on est revenu avec cette formule.) c'est un peu long (train regional seulement) pour les grandes vitesses faut reserver 2 mois à l'avance si tu as un vélo...
J'ai bcp hésité sur les pneus au début, un de nous avait un vélo de course, il a crevé pas mal de fois sur le début du parcours. Prévoyez au minimum du pneu vtc. (le mieux avec une chambre à air renforcé) Pour ma part j'ai adapté mon VTT en changeant ses pneus, et en y ajoutant des cornes (ça permet de varier la position sur le guidon), prevoyer aussi des "gants de vélo", ça évite les ampoules...
Après Passau, c'est du faux plat descendant, c'est le plus facile, mais c'est super chouette aussi.
Pour les trajets de retour y'a le billet dont je parlais, sinon va sur le site de la Die Bahn, c'est bcp mieux que la SNCF (je m'en sert même pour mes trajets en France)
Je concluerai en disant que c'est une experience à vivre, un peu galère parfois (surtout quand il pleut...) prevoyer des gels apaisants pour les articulations ou les muscles si vous avez peu d'entrainement (on est parti avec une centaine de borne dans les pates... c'était un peu limite, les 3 premiers jours les genoux coincent et s'enflamment un peu avec le poids des sacoches...)
pour info, on faisait entre 80 et 100bornes par jours, environ 4à 5heures de vélo, c'est pas énorme finalement, ça laisse le temps de profiter des frustuck allemand le matin en terrasse, et de visiter un peu.
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.