Après moults heures passées à lire le forum et vos blogs de voyage, je me lance pour vous demander votre avis sur mon itinéraire. Il était temps….vu qu’on part dans une semaine et qu’on n’a que les billets d’avion. Je sais c’est short, mais c’est mieux que de rester à Paris 🙂
Je pars 3 semaines avec mon chéri, on a ~30 ans, on aime les randos, les animaux, les paysages sauvages, on n’a pas peur de faire de grosses journées. On va louer un 4x4 avec tente sur le toit (enfin, si on en trouve, j’envoie les demandes de devis dans la foulée à Asco, Camping car hire, Bushlore, Odyssey car hire et peut-être Tourmaline et Madiza pour voir…), on se logera surement 2 ou 3 fois en lodge ou B&B pendant le trajet tout de même.
J’ai fait le choix d’aller jusqu’aux Epupa Falls et de zapper le sud et le Fish river canyon : j’ai l’impression d’avoir fait un choix un peu arbitraire, donc si vous avez des arguments pour me faire changer d’idée, je vous écoute ! J’ai encore rien réservé héhé.
BREF ! Voilà l’itinéraire, merci d’avance pour votre aide (entre parenthèses les temps de route indiqués par Google Maps) :
J1 : Atterrissage à Windhoek à 13h15. Récupération du 4x4, courses, nuit à Windhoek (je suis preneuse de bonnes adresses).
J2 : Route pour le Kalahari (3h30). Balade et/ou game drive sur place. Nuit au Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
(UPDATE : le campsite est full et je n'en trouve pas d'autres à proximité. Mes options à un prix raisonnable : loger au Lapa Lange Lodge un peu au sud de Mariental ou au Stamprit GH à Stampriet / sinon un peu plus cher, Africa Safari Lodge à l'ouest ou Gondwana Kalahari Anib Lodge => mais j'ai du mal à voir lequel est ou n'est pas en plein désert, qu'on puisse y faire des balades ou activités. Sinon on part carrément direct à Sesriem de Windhoek !)
J3 : Route pour Sesriem (4h30). Deadvlei, Dune 45… Nuit camping (Sesriem Camp site ou Sossusvlei Lodge si de la place)
J4 : Vol en montgolfière. Hidden Vlei, Sossusvlei, Canyon, Dunes… Nuit au Tsauchab River Camp (1h) (sinon Naukluftcamp Site (1H45)).
J5 : Waterkloof Trail. Nuit au Tented Camp Gecko (2h) ou Rostock Camp Site (2h15).
J6 : Route jusqu’à Walvis Bay (3h30) via Kuiseb Canyon (?). Dune 7, lagune flamands, nuit à Swakopmund (en B&B, adresse à trouver)
J7 : Excursion à la journée à Sandwich Harbour > les avis avaient l’air vraiment positifs, ça vaut le coup d’y passer la journée ? Nuit à Swakopmund
J8 : Quad dans les dunes ET/OU Weltwischia drive ET/OU Cape Cross (1h45) (un conseil ? J). Nuit à Spitzkoppe Rest Camp (2h30).
J9 : Balade Spitzkoppe/Pondoks. Passage au Brandberg (burntmountains - organ pipes - petrified forest ?) (1h45). Nuit à Twyfelfontein en camping (2h20).
J10 : Game drive à la concession de Palmwag (1H30). Nuit au Grootberg Lodge ou Hoada Campsite, activité sur place dans l’après-midi.
J11 : Traque aux rhinos noirs. Nuit à Fort Sesfontein (2h) (ou ailleurs sur la route d’Epupa, des idées ?).
J12 : Route vers Epupa (4h45). Balade sur place. Nuit Epupa Camp.
J13 : Balade Epupa/Kunene (des suggestions ?). Visite village Himba (ou pas). Nuit à Epupa ou à Opuwo (2h30) pour nous avancer.
J14 : Route vers Etosha (3h30). Nuit à Olifantrus.
J15 : Etosha. Nuit Okaukuejo.
J16 : Etosha. Nuit Halali (lodge si dispo).
J17 : Etosha. Nuit Namutoni.
J18 : Route vers le Waterberg (5h). Camping au Waterberg wilderness lodge ou Waterberg camp.
J20 : Activités lodge (drive guépard/léopard/etc). Nuit plus proche de Windhoek : avez-vous des adresses à recommander, pour être pas trop loin de l’aéroport ?
Après hors les temps de route absolu, il faut aussi envisager les arrêts en cours (admiration paysage, animaux...) de route et cela peut rallonger la durée...
Belle suite de prépa et bonne chance pour les hébergements
Départ dans une semaine 🙂 et rien de réserver notamment à Etosha et Sesriem 🏴☠️. Dans ces 2 endroits, il est très fortement conseillé de réserver à l'avance. Dépêche toi de le faire.
Google maps est souvent optimiste, il faut toujours prendre de la marge par rapport aux durées indiquées (en général je rajoute au moins 20 % pour être tranquille), et puis il faut tenir compte des très nombreux arrêts photos que vous allez faire (et il y aura beaucoup 😉). Je rejoins donc ce que dis Madikera sur les temps de trajet.
On va louer un 4x4 avec tente sur le toit (enfin, si on en trouve)
As-tu eu des réponses ?
J’ai fait le choix d’aller jusqu’aux Epupa Falls et de zapper le sud et le Fish river canyon
Tu as raison, en 20 jours, cela serait impossible à intégrer dans votre itinéraire.
J1 : Atterrissage à Windhoek à 13h15. Récupération du 4x4, courses, nuit à Windhoek (je suis preneuse de bonnes adresses).
Londiningi Guesthouse.
J2 : Route pour le Kalahari (3h30). Balade et/ou game drive sur place. Nuit au Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
(UPDATE : le campsite est full et je n'en trouve pas d'autres à proximité.)
Départ direct pour Sesriem, mais encore faut-il trouver dans la place au camping ou au lodge. Je trouve que 2 nuits à Sesriem c'est bien cela permet de profiter des dunes matin et soir, avec de superbes lumières.
J4 : Vol en montgolfière. Hidden Vlei, Sossusvlei, Canyon, Dunes… Nuit au Tsauchab River Camp (1h) (sinon Naukluftcamp Site (1H45)).
J'irais plutôt au Naukluftcamp, ce qui vous permettra de faire l'olive trail le lendemain.
J'intervertirais aussi l'ordre pour commencer par Naukluft puis Sesriem puis Gecko Camp.
Le vol est montgolfière est assez prisé. As-tu réservé ?
Généralement tu es de retour au lodge ou au camping vers 9h30/10h. Cela te laisse donc le temps de refaire un tour dans les dunes avant de partir pour Gecko Camp.
J6 : Route jusqu’à Walvis Bay (3h30) via Kuiseb Canyon (?). Dune 7, lagune flamands, nuit à Swakopmund (en B&B, adresse à trouver)
J7 : Excursion à la journée à Sandwich Harbour > les avis avaient l’air vraiment positifs, ça vaut le coup d’y passer la journée ? Nuit à Swakopmund
Tu peux dormir à Swakop ou à Walvis Bay. Toutes les activités partent de WB, cela te fait gagner un peu de temps.
J8 : Quad dans les dunes ET/OU Weltwischia drive ET/OU Cape Cross (1h45) (un conseil ? J). Nuit à Spitzkoppe Rest Camp (2h30).
Plutôt que d'aller à Cape Cross, tu peux voir les otaries à Pelican Point, à côté du phare à WB. Pour y aller, tu longes les marais salants, puis tu prends la piste sableuse qui mène au phare (qui est désormais un lodge, tu as le plan d'accès sur leur site)
J9 : Balade Spitzkoppe/Pondoks. Passage au Brandberg (burntmountains - organ pipes - petrified forest ?) (1h45). Nuit à Twyfelfontein en camping (2h20).
Spitzkoppe est un endroit magnifique et tu vas probablement encore t'y balader le matin. Le programme de ta journée est trop chargé.
Il faut compter 4h30 pour faire Spitzkoppe / Twyfelfontein (sans tenir compte des arrêts).
Tu n'auras pas le temps de faire Brandberg et Organ pipes et Cie dans la même journée. Et puis tu oublies à Twyfelfontein le site des gravures pariétales.
En toute honnêteté, Burnt moutain et Petrified forest, tu peux oublier d'y aller ce n'est pas super intéressant. Mais le site de gravure lui l'est et organ pipe est juste à côté.
Tu peux éventuellement t'arrêter à Brandberg, puis faire les visites à Twyfelfontein le lendemain matin, avant de rejoindre Palmwag. D'autant que le trajet Twyfelfontein / Palmwag est assez court (environ 2h). Cela te permet de faire un drive dans la concession de Palmwag l'après-midi.
J18 : Route vers le Waterberg (5h). Camping au Waterberg wilderness lodge ou Waterberg camp.
Je ne connais pas le Waterberg, mais les avis sur VF sont très partagés, voire défavorables 😕
A Okonjima les drives sont le matin et l'après midi. Les drives léopards et guépards sont 2 drives différents, tu ne fais pas les 2 en même temps. Pour faire le drive de l'après-midi, il faut arriver bien avant 15h, car le drive commence à 15h. Il faut donc en tenir compte dans l'organisation de ta journée.
Perso, je trouve qu'Okonjima mérite 2 nuits car c'est un superbe endroit. Outre les drives, tu peux faire un peu de rando dans la réserve, il y a plusieurs itinéraires allant, de mémoire de 3 à 7 km, où tu peux apercevoir antilopes, zèbres ...
Bonne prépa de ton voyage. Mais une chose est certaine vous allez revenir enchantés.
Bonjour
une toute petite remarque concernant J13, dormir à Opuwo, ce n'est pas si simple, on a dû nous y arrêter à cause d'une panne, en octobre dernier, le camping un peu """select""" était complet, celui de la ville ne nous a pas fait envie du tout et celui où on a atterri, franchement, c'était pour dépanner mais ce n'est pas un endroit que je conseillerais... donc si vous voulez vraiment faire ce stop, n'hésitez pas et réservez!
Bon voyage!
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Salut! en fonction de ton heure d'arrivée, du loueur tu peux aussidormir près de l'aéroport pour ressentir les premières sensations africaines plutôt que d'aller en ville (bof). Quelques adresses Heja lodge (où tu peux faire un premier safari en arrivant), airport lodge (simple mais les gérants sont très très gentils), Hohe warte ou même Eden chalets (super mais c'est en self catering donc tu dois aller en ville manger ou t'arranger avec eux) à mi chemin entre WDKet l'aéroprt
Je te donne en mp le nom d'un agent local qui lue des 4x4 avec tentes sur le toit (tourmaline et madiza n'ont pas de véhicules ils les louent et te les re-louent !)
Kalahari farmhouse esttrès bien à la place de bagatelle. Tu n'auras pas le temps de faire beaucoup d'activités le jour 2 .Regarde là pour les autres options http://www.wheretostay.na/Mariental-Namibia-Zone37-24.6286-18.1725#planner
ca te servira aussi pour d'autres sites
J10 : dors au camping de Palmwag ou entre dans la concession et fais du camping sauvage
J 11 http://www.spitzkoppereservations.com/2.Community+Campsites.htm pour les hébergements en camps gérés par les communautés locales (il y en a un à Sesfontein très correct)
J14 : dors plutot à Roadside (500 m avant la Galton gate : trou d'eau magnifique lions souvent visibles pas loin du camp) et visitez la concession d'Hobatere un must !
J20 :Windhoek game camp, Duesternbrok ou les lodges du début de mon message.
N'hésite ps à me contacter je suis encore sur place (Namibie) pour 10 jours chez des amis à Windhoek
Merci pour ces réponses rapides, ça m’a bien aidé vu l’urgence de la situation. Je l’ai bien comprise, donc je vous confirme que j’ai passé ma nuit à envoyer toutes les demandes de voiture, hébergement et autres… et une bonne partie de ma journée aussi (pas top pour la productivité au boulot).
Mais ça va bien se passer – au pire je vais juste devoir faire un prêt à la banque pour payer mon 4x4 et dormir au milieu du bush, rien d’insurmontable. 😛
Oui déjà des réponses pour les 4x4, ils sont hyper réactifs :
- Asco : 2350€ pour un 2.5TD Toyota Hilux Double Cab
- Bushlore : 2824€ pour un Toyota Land Cruiser SW 76/79 4x4
- Camping Car Hire : 1600€ pour un Nissan 4x4 Double Cab. C’est déjà plus abordable en terme de prix…
- Value Car Rental : @Madikera, je les ai contacté tout à l’heure et ils m’ont répondu en 5 min… qu’ils étaient full. Mais merci pour le tuyau !
Londiningi Guesthouse : contacté ! mais pas encore de réponse. Sinon j’ai vu des trucs pas chers sur booking, bien notés, facile à réserver rapidement en cas de besoin (Urban Camp ou Jordani B&B).
Petit update sur mes résas : vu que tout le monde dit que ça peut être long d’avoir une réponse par mail du NWR, je les ai appelés directement. Ca me coutera surement 20€ de hors forfait, mais c’est le prix du miracle : toutes mes nuits à Sesriem et Etosha étaient dispos en camp site (sauf Okaukuenjo où on a une chambre pour 150€, ça remplacera le lodge que je pensais faire à Halali…) aux dates prévues dans mon premier itinéraire !!! J’avais commencé à la revoir selon tes recommandations pour le début Emma, mais finalement c’est sur mes dates que ça colle. Bref, incroyable (je m’extasie de peu peut-être ! 🙂) Et je recommande à tous ceux qui stressent d’être sans réponse de leur passer un petit coup de fil, en 10 minutes c’était bon.
La montgolfière, c’est bon, dispo confirmée ! Mon jour de chance je vous dis 😎
J8 et J9, effectivement c’est surchargé. Bien noté pour le remplacement de Cape Cross, c’est vrai que ça fait beaucoup de route en plus pour y aller, je le caserai en J6 ou 7. Et je zappe les pipes et la foret pétrifiée. Cela donnerait ça :
- J7 : Excursion à Sandwich Harbour > savez-vous si ça vaut le coup sur la demi-journée ? dans ce cas on pourrait faire du quad l’après-midi. Nuit à Walvis Bay.
- J8 : Route vers Spitzkoppe via Weltwischia drive (sauf si ça ne vaut pas trop le coup ?). Balade Spitzkoppe dans l’aprèm, nuit à Spitzkoppe Rest Camp (4h).
- J9 : Balade Spitzkoppe si on n’en a pas assez. Route vers Brandberg (White Lady) (2h). Nuit Twyfelfontein (2h30).
- J10 : Site Twyfelfontein (gravure pariétale + burnt mountain). Route vers Palmwag (2h), game drive à la concession de Palmwag. Nuit au Grootberg Lodge (1H) ou Hoada Campsite.
A propos du Waterberg, parles-tu simplement du camp ou du site carrément ? Pour le camp, en effet ça donne pas envie ce qu’on peut lire, par contre le Waterberg Wilderness lodge a des campsites, a l’air bien et a des des dispos !
J19 : J’aurai bien aimé rester 2 nuits à Okonjima mais les camp sites sont full, on va donc prendre une chambre pour la première nuit, mais 2 c’est un peu trop. On pourra essayer de loger pas loin pour profiter un max du lieu. Je vais quand meme en discuter avec monsieur au cas où !
Pour Opuwo, merci Anne-Marie : le camping « select » c’est celui du Opuwo Country Lodge je suppose ? Sinon tu saurais s’il y a d’autres endroits sympas pour loger entre Okonjima et l’aéroport de Windhoek ?
Encore merciiii ! Je suis déjà infiniment moins stressée qu'il y a 24h...
Pour Opuwo, merci Anne-Marie : le camping « select » c’est celui du Opuwo Country Lodge je suppose ? Sinon tu saurais s’il y a d’autres endroits sympas pour loger entre Okonjima et l’aéroport de Windhoek ?
Oui, c'est bien ce camping à Opuwo où on s'est retrouvé coincé à la gate... parce que complet.
Non, je ne connais pas d'autre endroit, j'ai soit logé en ville à Arrebush, soit dormi à Otjiwarongo et fait la route dans la matinée (pour un avion vers 15h mais un vol moyen courrier).
Bon voyage, il me tarde d'y retourner 🙂!
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Nous avons bcp aimé la Welwischia Drive et ses paysages (en même temps nous apprécions souvent des lieux très peu appréciés par d'autres et inversement, donc ?) mais je ne la ferai pas le même jour que l'aller au Spitzkoppe car pas vraiment dans la même direction.
Pour aller de Swakop ou WB au Spitz, tu peux passer par la côte et Henties Bay du coup tu peux pousser jusqu'à Cape Cross (nous avons bcp apprécié de voir tant de phoques et surtout des très jeunes). Puis à partir de Henties Bay (éventuellement y déjeuner nous y avons mangé de l'excellent poisson au GoFishy près du Spar) remonter par la D1918 au Spitz.
Il y a 175 kilomètres à faire + 90 pour l'aller et retour entre Henties et la réserve de CC, soit en tout, 265.
- J7 : Excursion à Sandwich Harbour > savez-vous si ça vaut le coup sur la demi-journée ? dans ce cas on pourrait faire du quad l’après-midi. Nuit à Walvis Bay.
Je n'ai pas fait cette excursion, impossible donc de te répondre.
- J8 : Route vers Spitzkoppe via Weltwischia drive (sauf si ça ne vaut pas trop le coup ?). Balade Spitzkoppe dans l’aprèm, nuit à Spitzkoppe Rest Camp (4h).
Krikri aussi a fait Welwitschia Drive sur cette étape, et a priori, cela passait bien au niveau du timing. Voici le lien sur la page de son site consacrée à cette étape.
A propos du Waterberg, parles-tu simplement du camp ou du site carrément ?
Du site. Fais une petite recherche sur VF tu verras (enfin si tu as le temps à quelques jours du départ 😉).
J19 : J’aurai bien aimé rester 2 nuits à Okonjima mais les camp sites sont full, on va donc prendre une chambre pour la première nuit, mais 2 c’est un peu trop. On pourra essayer de loger pas loin pour profiter un max du lieu. Je vais quand meme en discuter avec monsieur au cas où !
Carte des hébergements autour de WDK et pas trop loin d'Okonjima. Cela pourrait t'aider. A part Okonjima et Hadassa GH à Otjiwarongo (très bonne GH), je ne connais aucun de ces hébergements.
Encore merciiii ! Je suis déjà infiniment moins stressée qu'il y a 24h...
Il est certain que chacune, chacun combine les itinéraires à sa manière et envisage les mêmes sites de façons différentes... 😉
Après, selon la période de l'année août/novembre, par exemple, le nombre d'heures de jour n'est pas le même, donc les possibles en une seule journée diffèrent...
La WDrive nous a pris presque 3 heures entre Swakop et le moment où nous avons rejoint la C28 après avoir fait tout le tour (il faut rajouter le retour à Swakop) sans compter le temps nécessaire à l'achat du permis le matin même car la veille dimanche c'était fermé et nous étions arrivé trop tard le samedi pour l'acheter...
Nous avons mis 1h30 entre Swakop et Cape Cross et 1 bonne heure sur site...
Tout dépend aussi si le jour d'arrivée au Spitz, il est envisagé de le découvrir un peu ou pas. Rien qu'en faire le pourtour en voiture nous a pris un peu plus d'une heure...
L'intérêt du partage sur nos voyages, c'est qu'aucun n'est identique à un autre 😉
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 9 replies
Je suis en pleine réflexion pour notre futur voyage en namibie en Aout 2020. nous serons 4 avec 2 enfants/Ado de 12 et 15 ans, et nous ferons toutes les nuits…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 13 replies
Je lis avec grand intérêt tous vos récits de voyage en Namibie et wahou... le moins qu'on puisse dire c'est que j'ai hâte!! Nous prévoyons (mon copain et moi),…
Plantons le décor: nous sommes un couple et avons décidé de partir pour un peu plus de 3 semaines en Namibie. Les billets sont réservés: départ le 17/07 de…
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!