Itinéraire 40 jours en Europe Centrale et en Europe de l'Est

Au cours de ces vingt-cinq dernières années, j'ai parcouru une bonne dizaine de fois les routes qui relient la France à la Moldavie, tantôt via l'Europe centrale, tantôt via les Balkans.

C'est en voyageant ainsi, sur ce que j’appelle le plancher des vaches, que j'ai compris une chose toute simple que je résume ainsi : les voisins de nos voisins sont aussi très clairement nos voisins. Et cela n'est pas sans importance.

La preuve : https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤗

Après une parenthèse de quelques années, j'envisage de reprendre la route en septembre, cette fois-ci vers le Kosovo, en traversant la Bosnie-Herzégovine et le Monténégro.

Ayant pris un peu d’âge, je n'ai aucune intention de rouler plus vite que la musique... 😉.

Je préfère prendre mon temps.

Je ne cherche pas à tout voir, mais à m'imprégner de l'atmosphère des lieux, en laissant toujours une place à l'imprévu et aux rencontres.

Je suis particulièrement attiré par les régions culturellement dépaysantes, authentiques et accueillantes : villages vivants, petites routes, paysages préservés, marchés, fêtes locales, traditions encore bien présentes... et, pourquoi pas, quelques endroits insolites, oubliés ou un peu secrets.

Si certains d'entre vous connaissent un peu la Bosnie-Herzégovine, le Monténégro ou le Kosovo, je serais très heureux de recueillir leurs suggestions d'itinéraires, d'étapes, de routes secondaires, de chambres chez l'habitant, de fêtes de village ou de contacts locaux par exemple.

Je les en remercie par avance.

Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.

The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w



Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.

Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.

There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:



In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.

Hi there. I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?

Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?

Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards

Hi there, After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.

Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking... So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.

I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet. But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!

And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!

Hi, I'm looking for a car rental company in Tirana for September. Does anyone have a rental company to recommend? I saw that it's possible to rent from private individuals through a platform that groups them (rentfromlocals/al). Has anyone used this method, and if so, is it cost-effective, reliable, and what guarantees are there?

Also, I plan to drive through the Albanian mountains (Valbonë, Kukës, Përmet, Pogradec...). Can anyone tell me about the general condition of these roads? Is a 4x4 vehicle necessary, or would a car with a slightly raised undercarriage (like a Dacia Sandero Stepway) be enough? Bruno

Hi there,

We’re planning a 12-day trip to Bulgaria and we’d love to do the monastery route—anyone have suggestions to share? Thanks in advance!

hi

I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks

Hi there, We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania. What routes would you recommend, starting from the South? Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it? Thanks for all your tips!😊

Hi, I’m looking for a local guide in Burgas, Bulgaria, who speaks French and can suggest some great excursions for us? For 3 people from July 8 to 14, 2026.

Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26). Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly! Thanks so much!

Maya and Sullivan

We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!

A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.

Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.

Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).

Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.

Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.

We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.

Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.

We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027. Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer. Initially, I had planned this itinerary: Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture. That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.

Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.

Naxos seems like the best option!!!

For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?

Hi there! We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway! Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece. We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!! The oil shortage is also worrying us... If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!

Thanks!!

A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond... Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share: Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight. Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95... Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver). Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused. After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice! Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking. Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport. Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location. Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress. The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district. Gjirokastër: Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area. Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas. The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people. -The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel. The castle offers a beautiful view of the city. -Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive! -The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky. Around Gjirokastër: -Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë. -Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside. Himarë: Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff. Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit. Around Himarë: -Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village. -The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning. -Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop. -Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing. Tirana: Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi). Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony. Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies. The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction. -Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly. -The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era. -Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system... -The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice. Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.

That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

What are the main sights to visit on Rhodes itself or the surrounding islands, and what’s the weather like? We’re leaving on May 18th.

Hi everyone, We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south. I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!

Hi, I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina? Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.

Thanks!

Patrice

Hi everyone,

I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city. I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!

Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint Visit the Baroque gardens St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit National Theatre Discover the Cumil statues Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie Michael’s Gate Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid Head down to the Blue Church Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge There you go—10 km and a packed day! What do you think?

Thanks, Stéphane.

Hi, I’m renting a car in Greece (Heraklion). Should I get extra insurance? What’s driving like with the Greeks? Thanks for any tips!

Hi there, we’re heading to Crete from May 8th to 15th, staying at a hotel in Agia Pelagia, 20 km from Heraklion, on half-board, so we’ll be back every evening. What daily itinerary would you recommend? We love hiking and discovering local cultures... Thanks in advance!!

Hello, We’re heading to Prague with so much excitement from June 10th to 20th. I’ve got three main questions for those who live there or have visited: - What are your thoughts on what to pack clothing-wise? What’s the weather usually like at this time of year? We’re a bit sensitive to the cold—we live way down in southern Andalusia and are used to the *calor* 😎... Should we pack rain gear? Are we likely to get a lot of rain (which we’re dreading a little, but we couldn’t choose other dates)? - I’ve seen there are "passes" for various attractions, museums, and sites, including one that’s valid for 10 days but costs a whopping 160 € per person—that’s an average of 16 € per day. Do you think it’s really worth it? We won’t be spending our days rushing between every indoor site; we also love wandering the streets and discovering things a bit "at random." If we do two paid visits a day, that’ll probably be the max... Can we make it worth the cost with that? Of course, we want to visit the castle and take a boat trip as a minimum. Are the sites included in these passes iconic, or are they more "minor" attractions? Does having the pass help us skip long lines? - Finally, a question about communication: I speak French, obviously, plus Spanish and English fluently, but very little German (haven’t practiced in ages), and no Russian or Czech at all. My husband knows a few words of Russian, but it’s "Cuban" Russian—about the same level as my current German 🙂 !! Can we still get by without too much trouble? We don’t want to spend 10 days not saying a word to anyone and communicating only with gestures!! Thanks for your valuable tips and opinions.

hi,

I'm looking to rent a small car, not too expensive, for Crete in April. Do you have any great tips? Thanks in advance! Best regards

Hi there! We’re heading to Crete (Heraklion) as a couple and I’d like to rent a car. 1) Do we need an international driver’s permit? 2) Are rentals super expensive? Thanks everyone!

Hi there

I’d like to know how much a meal costs on average in zloty in Poland (Warsaw, Kraków, Częstochowa, Wadowice), and also the price of souvenirs like postcards and magnets—so I don’t end up with too many zlotys left after my 5-day trip to Poland?

Hi everyone,

I’m just passing through the city very quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see as many must-see spots as possible. I’ve put together a little itinerary—let me know what you think!

Visit to Varosliget Park Heroes’ Square Quick stop in the southern part of Margitsziget (for the photo with the Budapest sign!!!) Gül Baba Mausoleum and Rose Garden Fisherman’s Bastion Church of the Assumption of Our Lady of Budavár Tóth Árpád stny promenade Budavar Palace Freedom Square Parliament

This is just a first draft. I still have a few months to tweak it.

Thanks!

Stéphane.

hello I’m looking for advice for a last-minute trip—about 3 weeks (half Montenegro, half Croatia). I’m traveling solo, backpacker style (low budget, hostels). I’m 40 and love exploring cool spots—cities, beaches, mountains, sports activities, you name it.

I’m torn between renting a car or just going with the flow using buses once I’m there. A car would definitely be more convenient, but it might be pricier—plus, parking (is it paid?) and having to return it to the same place. My plan is to start in Montenegro (flying into Podgorica or Albania) and finish in Croatia, so I’d either need to do short-term rentals per country or one-way.

In Montenegro, here are the spots I’ve noted: - Ulcinj and Velika Plaža beach - A side trip to Lake Skadar and Virpazar - Budva, Sveti Stefan, and Petrovac - Cetinje and Lovćen National Park - Kotor / Perast - Žabljak and Durmitor National Park + rafting in the Tara Canyon Is 8–10 days enough?

And in Croatia, I’ve got: - Dubrovnik - Korčula - Hvar - Split + Trogir and Krka National Park - Zadar - Plitvice Lakes National Park - Croatian Istria / Rovinj / Pula - Zagreb Around 10–12 days.

Any tips on the stops (adding or cutting some from my list) or transportation options?

Thanks in advance!

Hi there,

I’m heading to Pelion with my partner and then to Chalkidiki around mid-September (from September 12th to 26th). I arrive in Thessaloniki on Saturday evening and plan to spend a day there to check out the market (though it’s marked as temporarily closed on Google??) and, most importantly, enjoy the local food scene.

After that, I’ll head toward Meteora (Sunday evening/Monday), spend a week in Pelion, and then head up to Nikiti to finish the trip (5 days in Vourvourou) and explore the beaches of Sithonia. We’ll also make a trip to Afytos since I think it’s worth the detour.

About Pelion, I’m really not sure where to stay because the distances between Volos and Afissos aren’t straightforward.

I’m looking for a quiet spot but with a little evening activity—like strolling through a village or by the sea. I’ve seen a few suggestions via ChatGPT, but I’m not convinced about the vibe (Milies, Makrinitsa).

Volos is big… but kind of ugly.

We love hiking, spending time in picturesque/typical villages, and, like everyone else, tasting local specialties. As for balancing the trip, I’m open to changes or adjustments if you’ve got any tips—I’d love to hear them, along with any other ideas.

Hi! We’d like to go away for 10 days around May 15th, either to Menorca or Crete—we don’t know either place. We love hiking, unspoiled nature, good food, swimming, and, if possible, avoiding crowds. We enjoy getting off the beaten track. Menorca seems ideal because it’s not far by plane from Lyon, but if Crete is really wilder and more beautiful in terms of landscapes, we can add an extra hour of flight time. Can you help us out? Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm on my way to Slovakia, where I'll be spending about ten days on vacation in the High Tatras. I've decided to stop in Prague for 24 hours with my two teens (arriving around noon, leaving the next day). We don’t know the city at all. I know a single day is way too short to discover everything, so I’d like to plan a small circuit to see the must-see spots.

Here’s what I’ve planned:

Walk through Nový Svět street Visit the castle, St. Vitus Cathedral, and Golden Lane Quick stop at Vojanovy Sady gardens Malá Strana Square Maltese Square Kampa Island Then the iconic Charles Bridge and a short tour of the Jewish Quarter We’ll head back down to visit Old Town Square (Malé Náměstí, St. Nicholas Church, and the Church of Our Lady before Týn) Head to Wenceslas Square and the Church of Our Lady of the Snows Then to the Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius and the Dancing House And finally, back to the starting point.

Estimated distance: 10 km

I was thinking of a little evening stroll up Petřín Hill... what do you think? Are there things that aren’t really worth it, or other spots that are must-sees?

Thanks for your thoughts and feedback!

Stéphane.

Hello

It’s decided—next summer, it’s Cyprus! A region we don’t know yet, with nature, culture, beach time, and diving the Zenobia 😎 We’re thinking of a 2-week trip.

After flipping through the LP guide, I’m still unsure about the best bases—I can’t quite picture the distances...

Option 1: Stay near Larnaca for 1 week and Paphos for the other. But from Larnaca, Cape Greco is doable. Wouldn’t it be better to stay near Cape Greco (Protaras?) instead? What about getting to Lefkara? Same from Paphos—easy to explore as far as Kourion.

Option 2: A single, more central base somewhere between Limassol and Larnaca.

Thanks for your tips and great deals 😉