22-day itinerary in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia: your thoughts and advice?
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Original post
SO
Hello,

After spending some time reading through the forum posts, I’m finally taking the plunge to ask for your help. We’re planning a family trip—a couple with two kids aged 10 and 12—and we’ll be driving from the Paris region. Flying isn’t an option for us. We’ll pass through Munich on the way out and Mantua on the way back. I’ve tried to design an itinerary that suits our preferences: moving at a relaxed pace, avoiding constant packing and unpacking, and keeping the kids engaged. To give you an idea, our oldest wasn’t too impressed with Corsica because "it was meh, just pretty landscapes to look at." Our youngest is only happy when she can dip her feet in the water, and the parents aren’t fans of lounging on a towel for too long.

After all my research, I’ll admit I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed. Is this itinerary doable without turning into a mad dash? Am I missing any must-see spots? Is the Croatia leg realistic? Is it worth staying 4 nights on Brač, given we’re not big beach fans? Have I accounted for enough time at the border crossings? I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice.

Here’s the planned itinerary from July 21 to August 17: Day 1 to 4: Munich Day 5: Depart Munich for Plitvice Lakes (overnight there) Day 6: Visit Plitvice Lakes (overnight there) Day 7: Drive to Una (overnight in Cardaklije) Day 8: Visit Una (overnight in Cardaklije) Day 9: Rafting? (overnight in Cardaklije) Day 10: Drive to Sarajevo. Visit Jajce and Travnik? (overnight in Sarajevo) Day 11: Visit Sarajevo (overnight in Sarajevo) Day 12: Skakavac Waterfalls or other points of interest in the area (overnight in Sarajevo) Day 13: Drive to Mostar. Visit Konjic and Jablanica (overnight in Mostar or Blagaj?) Day 14: Kravica Waterfalls (overnight in Mostar or Blagaj?) Day 15: Visit Blagaj (overnight in Mostar or Blagaj?) Day 16: Visit Počitelj—drive to Hutovo Blato (overnight where???) Day 17: Visit (overnight where??) Day 18: Visit Split (and Trogir?) (overnight in Split or nearby) Day 19: Ferry to Brač (4 nights on Brač) Day 23: Ferry back to Split—drive to Šibenik (overnight in Šibenik or nearby) Day 24: Day trip to the Kornati Islands? (overnight in Šibenik) Day 25: Krka National Park (overnight in Šibenik) Day 26: Depart for Mantua

What do you think? I’m eagerly awaiting your responses. Thanks so much for your help!
BA Barneyg Regular ·
I’ll keep my comments limited to the Bosnia portion, but overall, I can react to the whole thing. I think you’ve got the foundation for a really beautiful trip.

You know your kids best, but one of the challenges is the number of kilometers they’ll be willing to cover without getting too bored. I’ve got two kids who’d do Quebec-Los Angeles without leaving the car and two others who ask if we’re there yet after 45 minutes. In short, their reaction to the 1,500 km from Paris-Munich-Plitvice will still influence how many extra kilometers they’ll be willing to handle once you’re there. Don’t underestimate travel time—either there’s no highway, or you won’t want to take it because what’s interesting isn’t along it.

That said, overall, I think it’s well-balanced except for: Day 5: A long day of driving. You could split the Munich-Plitvice route over two days and cut a day later. Ljubljana would be a great stop—it’s a really charming city in the summer with riverside terraces and the castle. Just 35 minutes away, there are the Postojna Caves (or the Škocjan Caves a bit further south). Or a little to the north, Lake Bled and the Vintgar Gorge (an easy and pleasant hike). Day 10: Another long day—I’m not sure you’ll have time for both Jajce and Travnik (but Jajce alone, yes). That said, it depends on how much you like waterfalls, but with Plitvice, Una, Kravica, and Krka already in the plan, I’m guessing you’re fans 🙂

Days 14-16: I’d combine Počitelj and Kravica into the same day, maybe as stops on the way to Croatia—it’ll save you some kilometers. The road between Mostar and the Dalmatian coast isn’t very long.

Days 17-22: I’d have reached Brač by arriving from Bosnia via the ferry from Makarska instead of passing through Split twice. From the interior, the descent toward Makarska via Route 512 offers stunning landscapes, but you could also follow the Adriatic Highway (Jadranska Magistrala) from Ploče to Makarska. This whole stretch of the coast is very photogenic with the Biokovo massif in the background, though it’s the busiest part of the coast in summer. If you’re worried about getting bored on Brač, you could cut a night there, but at the same time, you mentioned your daughter loves swimming—I’d visit Split *after* Brač. It’s worth taking your time there—it’s a really pleasant city when you’re there before and after the cruise crowds. You don’t want to just visit from 11 AM to 3 PM. The Klis Fortress is interesting. Personally, I liked Šibenik much more than Trogir, but that’s a matter of taste. There are options for the Kornati Islands from Šibenik, but I think the most options are from Murter, which is a beautiful island (and the village of Tisno at the island’s entrance is nice).

Finally, if you want to avoid a mega day of highway driving on the way back, you could go to Krka early in the morning and leave after a few hours. The main loop of the park takes about 75-90 minutes. After all that travel, the wow factor will be less for the rest of the park (the lake, monastery, another waterfall, etc.). You could then head up the coast (no need to stop in Zadar). The coastal road north of the Maslenica Bridge is really beautiful and less crowded than in Dalmatia, with lunar landscapes on the island of Pag as a bonus.
NI Nicketsand Regular ·
You’re right, you’ve got two long driving days ahead. I’d add a stop to make them more interesting for the kids—Munich to Plitvice, for example. Consider a nice visit in Slovenia: leave early around 6 AM, drive until 10 or 11 AM, enjoy a great visit, then hit the road again around 2 or 3 PM to finish the last 4 hours.

Even though my kids like being on the road (except highways, which the whole family finds boring), they love breaking up the drive to feel like we’re actually making the most of the trip!

Just a heads-up: I find Plitvice way more impressive than Krka, so I’d recommend visiting that park before Plitvice—otherwise, you might end up disappointed with Krka...
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SO Sophiepat ·
Thank you so much for all your comments—they’ll be really helpful. I need to take a closer look at all your tips.

About your point on the length of the outbound trip, I’ll admit it’s still quite a trek from Paris. We’re stopping in Munich for 4 nights, which should help soften the blow, and the kids are amazingly patient in the car. A couple of years ago, we did long drives between France and Slovenia without any issues, but this time it’s even longer. We did consider stopping in Ljubljana, and we’re still weighing it up. Your opinion will definitely tip the scales! Though I’m not entirely sure I understand what you mean when you say, "Don’t underestimate the travel time—either there’s no motorway, or you don’t want to take it because the interesting stuff isn’t along it."

For Day 10, I could lighten the schedule by spending 2 nights in Cardaklije instead of three. If we leave UNA Park on the morning of Day 9, we could spend the night in Jajce and visit Travnik the next day. That would break up the drive to Sarajevo more evenly.

Following your suggestion, I’d skip one night in Mostar to visit Počitelj and Kravica along the way. But now I’m wondering if 3 nights at Hutovo Blato Park is too much. Will we find enough to do there, or should we "reclaim" a night to spend in Croatia? (I’m leaning toward the second option.)

I’ll refine the Croatian part of the plan—it did seem a bit shaky. Thanks so much for your suggestions; you’ve given me plenty of ideas! I really appreciate it!

Between the lines, I gather that Krka National Park might not need a full day, and I’ll note your idea to start heading north to break up the drive toward Mantua. Any suggestions for that night’s stop? I’ll look into Makarska. Thanks again!!
SO Sophiepat ·
Thanks so much for your reply!

We’re planning to stop for a long lunch in Slovenia (or Austria if we’re really running late). We know the area a bit from spending a month there two years ago—it’ll bring back some great memories. But I’ve heard border crossing times can be *super* variable, so we’ll play it by ear once we’re there. As for Krka, I’m still on the fence about cutting it. Barneyg’s message seemed to lean in that direction if I understood correctly. I’ll go back and tweak my itinerary to improve it.
BA Barneyg Regular ·
The comment you put in italics applied to Bosnia and, to some extent, the Croatian coast — even if Google Maps says it's a 4-hour drive, it can easily take 5 or 6 hours depending on traffic, deciding to stop somewhere unplanned, or anything else.

I can’t say much about Hutovo Blato since we didn’t go. Without heading further south (Ston, Korčula, Dubrovnik), the stretch between Split and the Neretva Delta is very much a vacation/tourist vibe. There’s now a "skywalk" above Makarska — it might be a tourist trap, but the view must be stunning. There are several popular activities around Omiš (rafting, zipline).

We really liked Krka despite the crowds. We took a boat from Skradin (one of the two ways to access the main part of the park), which is a lovely village for lunch afterward. Like at Plitvice, you need to arrive early (7–8 AM) or you’ll be waiting in line for ages.

To break up the drive, assuming you leave Skradin in the early afternoon and take the Adriatic route, Rijeka is roughly halfway between Skradin and Mantua (about 4 hours each way). That said, there are several viewpoints along this road (including near Karlobag, where you can take the winding Route 25 for a few kilometers to get a great view of Pag and the islands further out), so I’d plan to stop before Rijeka. You’ll have plenty of options between Senj and Crikvenica. There are also some nice stops in Istria (Mošćenička Draga, Labin, Rovinj) and on the islands (Krk, Cres, Lošinj), but they’re not on your route.
SO Sophiepat ·
Thanks so much for your help. I need to rework my draft for the Croatian part.
AS Astarloa Regular ·
Hi Sophie, I traveled through Bosnia and Herzegovina by bike last year, here’s my take: • Three of the sites you mentioned—Kravica, Počitelj, and Blagaj—are really close to Mostar. I’d recommend spending no more than half a day at each: three full days seems like a lot unless you keep each morning free to explore Mostar, for example. • Jajce and Travnik, absolutely—couldn’t recommend them more! Two cities, each with their own vibe, rich in history and heritage. The Šarena Mosque in Travnik is stunning, and the life in the center is especially lively. Jajce feels like a big village by comparison, more authentic but also unique with its position above a waterfall. • Jablanica was hit hard by floods last year, and one neighborhood was partially buried by a landslide. But I imagine it’s the Neretva Valley you’re most interested in seeing first.
SO Sophiepat ·
Hi Astarloa, Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. Your tips will be really helpful! Now I just need to finalize my itinerary.
CE Cerelinde Veteran ·
Hi Sophie,

I don’t have any comments on your itinerary, just one observation—you’re only visiting one Croatian island. Why did you choose Brač? In that area, there’s so much more that’s stunning, like Korčula (gorgeous), or even Hvar. Now, Hvar is very well-known and heavily visited, I get that it might put you off, but actually, tourism is mostly concentrated in the main village (Hvar). The rest of the island is really quiet, even wild in some places.
SO Sophiepat ·
Hi Cerelinde,

I just read your message today. Thank you for your comment. I really liked Brač Island, from afar :-). I’m looking for an island that’s not too crowded, a place to relax. I hope our choice isn’t too bad. I’d rather go back to Croatia another time, like around All Saints’ Day, to visit the more popular spots.

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