Nous partons faire un circuit de 14 nuits en autotour en Namibie début septembre et nous aurions besoin de vos conseils concernant notre itinéraire.
Pour l'instant, l'itinéraire prévu est le suivant :
Windhoek (1 nuit)
Marienthal (Kalahari anib lodge : 1 nuit)
Fish River Canyon (2 nuits)
Helmeringhausen (1 nuit) pour couper la route
Sesriem (2 nuits au Desert homestead & horsetrails) avec visite de Sossusvlei
Swakopmund (2 nuits) avec passage par walvis bay et cap cross
Twyfelfontein (1 nuit)
Etosha ouest (1 nuit au Dolomite Camp)
Etosha Okaukuejo (1 nuit)
Otjiwarongo (1 nuit)
Windhoek (1 nuit)
Questions :
- -> devons-nous maintenir le Fish River Canyon qui nous oblige à descendre très au sud et à faire pas mal de route?
Ou alors, pensez-vous qu'il vaut mieux squizzer le fish river (et donc la nuit de helmeringhausen) et reporter les nuits sur la région d'Opuwo par exemple? ou autre?
J'avais pensé à la Skeleton coast vers Torra Bay (pour voir les épaves de navire) mais apparemment ça ne vaut pas le coup
- -> devrions-nous ajouter une 3ème nuit dans le parc d'Etosha? Quitte à enlever une nuit à Swakopmund?
Salut,
moi je pense qu'en 14 jours il ne faut ni faire le sud (Fish River) ni le Nord (Epupa), beaucoup de route et pas le temps de bien profiter des choses.
Surtout que là tu occultes pas mal le Damaraland à part Twyfelfontein qui n'est à mon avis pas le meilleur du Damaraland et aussi Etosha. C'est dommage.
La partie Ouest d'Etosha n'est pas la meilleure partie non plus.
Salut,
moi je pense qu'en 14 jours il ne faut ni faire le sud (Fish River) ni le Nord (Epupa), beaucoup de route et pas le temps de bien profiter des choses.
Surtout que là tu occultes pas mal le Damaraland à part Twyfelfontein qui n'est à mon avis pas le meilleur du Damaraland et aussi Etosha. C'est dommage.
La partie Ouest d'Etosha n'est pas la meilleure partie non plus.
Hello
Merci pour tes conseils.
Je pense effectivement qu'on va squizzer le fish river canyon (même si en fait en 14 nuits, on a plutôt 16j sur place). Du coup on récupère 3 nuits (2 qui étaient prévues au Fish river et 1 à helmerinhausen)
Je pense ajouter 1 nuit a Etosha est (comme ça, on aura parcouru tout le parc d'ouest en est avec 3 camps/lodge), 1 nuit vers Naukluff/sesriem et du coup 1 nuit dans le damaraland (grootberg? sesfontein?...)
Pourrais-tu détailler tes conseils sur le damaraland et etosha.
Tu dis que twyfelfontein n'est pas le mieux... quel coin nous conseilles-tu? Ou devrions-nous ajouter une nuit selon toi?
Twyfelfontein est en quelque sorte un passage obligé dans le Damaraland. Ce n'est d'ailleurs pas inintéressant lors d'un premire voyage.
Mais je préfère le Brandberg et la région de Grootberg Palmwag
Pour Etosha la partie Ouest est beaucoup plus sauvage, moins d'animaux et plus craintifs du fait du peu de passage.
Si tu veux faire le plein d'animaux il faut faire les 3 camps traditionnels que sont Okakeijo, Halali et namutoni.
Twyfelfontein est en quelque sorte un passage obligé dans le Damaraland. Ce n'est d'ailleurs pas inintéressant lors d'un premire voyage.
Mais je préfère le Brandberg et la région de Grootberg Palmwag
Pour Etosha la partie Ouest est beaucoup plus sauvage, moins d'animaux et plus craintifs du fait du peu de passage.
Si tu veux faire le plein d'animaux il faut faire les 3 camps traditionnels que sont Okakeijo, Halali et namutoni.
Merci pour les infos.
Du coup en rajoutant 1 nuit dans le damaraland entre les étapes swakopmund et etosha tu ferais comment?
Tu placerais la nuit supplémentaire dans le brandberg ( ou dormir?) juste après swakopmund puis 2ème nuit à twyfelfuntein avant de rejoindre etosha?
Ou alors tu commencerais après swakopmund par la nuit a twyfelfuntein puis 2ème nuit vers palmwag/grootberg avant de rejoindre etosha?
Aurais-tu un lodge a nous conseiller pour cette 2ème nuit dans le damaraland?
Dernière question : je compte ajouter une nuit dans le naukluft... Qu'en penses-tu sachant qu'on a déjà 2 nuits vers sesriem?
La 3ème nuit économisée à Fisher river sera placée à etosha est.
je ne rajouterais pas de nuit dans le Naukluft. pour quoi faire ? une rando ?
après Swakop je ferais :
Brandberg white lady lodge
lendemain visite des sites de Twyfelfontein en passant, nuit à Grootberg lodge
activités avec Grootberg lodge (elephant drive) 2eme nuit à Grootberg lodge
Départ pour etosha
je ne rajouterais pas de nuit dans le Naukluft. pour quoi faire ? une rando ?
après Swakop je ferais :
Brandberg white lady lodge
lendemain visite des sites de Twyfelfontein en passant, nuit à Grootberg lodge
activités avec Grootberg lodge (elephant drive) 2eme nuit à Grootberg lodge
Départ pour etosha
Si je résume le nouvel itinéraire, cela donnerait
Windhoek
Mairental/kalahari
Sesriem
Sesriem
Swakopmud
Swakopmund
Brandberg
grootberg
grootberg
etosha ouest
etosha centre
etosha est
otjiwarongo
windhoek
Y-a-t-il un intérêt à monter jusqu'à sesfontein? ou même opuwo? avant de rejoindre etosha?
Peut-on voir un village Himba sans monter trop au nord?
Quid de rester à 2 nuits dans le damaraland et d'ajouter une nuit dans le kalahari vers mariental?
Pour finir, toi qui semble vraiment bien connaître le pays, est-il possible de voir des épaves de navires sur la skeleton coast?
Monter à Opuwo ne présente pas vraiment d'intérêt
La piste entre palmwag et Sesfontein est très jolie et très giboyeuse. Si tu as le temps tu peux en faire un petit bout et revenir sur tes pas.
Tu peux visiter des villages Himba près de Kamanjab
a ce moment là tu ne fais qu'une nuit à Grootberg, l'activité "traque à l'éléphant" ne dure que la matinée. l'après midi tu vas sur Kamanjab et tu dors à Onjowewe. Ils organisent la visite d'un village que tu peux faire le lendemain matin avant de partir sur Etosha.
Il y a aussi le lodge Gelbingen mais je ne le connais pas personnelement.
Pour les bateaux sur la skeleton coast je ne sais pas.
Monter à Opuwo ne présente pas vraiment d'intérêt
La piste entre palmwag et Sesfontein est très jolie et très giboyeuse. Si tu as le temps tu peux en faire un petit bout et revenir sur tes pas.
Tu peux visiter des villages Himba près de Kamanjab
a ce moment là tu ne fais qu'une nuit à Grootberg, l'activité "traque à l'éléphant" ne dure que la matinée. l'après midi tu vas sur Kamanjab et tu dors à Onjowewe. Ils organisent la visite d'un village que tu peux faire le lendemain matin avant de partir sur Etosha.
Il y a aussi le lodge Gelbingen mais je ne le connais pas personnelement.
Pour les bateaux sur la skeleton coast je ne sais pas.
une nuit dans le kalahari suffit
Tu as fait la visite du village himba depuis Onjowewe? cela vaut le coup ? Un autre forumeur m'a dit que je pouvais faire un village Himba sur la route entre grootberg et etosha... en roulant sur Kamanjab (20kms sur la droite, Otjikandero Himba Orphan Village)... s'agit-il du même village?
S'il est faisable sur la route le jour ou on part du grootberg lodge pour etosha, on peut peut-être maintenir les 2 nuits au grootberg lodge, qu'en penses-tu?
Sinon le Brandberg white lady lodge a de très mauvaises critiques sur tripadvisor... T'en penses quoi? y-a-t-il un autre lodge pour dormir dans le brandberg? Ou alors peut-on dormir à twyfelfuntein après swakopmund et visiter le brandberg sur le chemin?
Oui oui c'est le même village
Je ne l'ai personnellement pas fait mais disons que je connais pas mal de monde qui l'ont fait et ont eu des retours positifs.
Les visites sont réglementées et doivent obligatoirement être réservées à l'avance. En principe elles ont lieu à 8h00, 10h00 et 16h00.
alors oui tu peux garder tes 2 nuits à Grootberg et faire la visite de 10h00 par exemple
Le Brandberg white lady ? il faut se méfier des commentaires sur trip advisor et autres.
ce n'est certes pas le grand luxe mais le rapport prix est très bon. De plus l'endroit est assez exceptionnel.
Ils ont parait il remis à neuf quelques chambres dernièrement
Sinon bien sûr il y a toute la gamme de lodge près de twyfelfontein. Du grandiose comme Mowani au plus basique camp de toile ( xaragu, aabadi)
Visiter le Brandberg sur le chemin ne présente que peu d'intérêt.
Oui oui c'est le même village
Je ne l'ai personnellement pas fait mais disons que je connais pas mal de monde qui l'ont fait et ont eu des retours positifs.
Les visites sont réglementées et doivent obligatoirement être réservées à l'avance. En principe elles ont lieu à 8h00, 10h00 et 16h00.
alors oui tu peux garder tes 2 nuits à Grootberg et faire la visite de 10h00 par exemple
Le Brandberg white lady ? il faut se méfier des commentaires sur trip advisor et autres.
ce n'est certes pas le grand luxe mais le rapport prix est très bon. De plus l'endroit est assez exceptionnel.
Ils ont parait il remis à neuf quelques chambres dernièrement
Sinon bien sûr il y a toute la gamme de lodge près de twyfelfontein. Du grandiose comme Mowani au plus basique camp de toile ( xaragu, aabadi)
Visiter le Brandberg sur le chemin ne présente que peu d'intérêt.
Vraiment, je te remercie pour tous tes conseils.
Ton avis sur nauklufy/sesriem
Pour l'instant, en arrivant de Mariental, on dort 2 nuits au desert homestead à coté de sesriem et de sossusvlei.
Aura-t-on assez de temps pour profiter du coin avant de partir pour walfis bay?
En venant de mariental, je pensais ne pas prendre la C19 direct pour sesriem mais prendre la petite route qui part au sud ouest à l'embranchement de Zaris puis remonter sur sesriem par la route qui traverse le namibrand ? (cf image)
Pas de quoi 😉
je vois que sur l'autre forum on te donne les même conseils 😉
personnelement je ne perdrais pas de temps à faire ce détour.
A Mariental tu peux faire un arrêt sympa au Hardap dam reserve
en arrivant sur Sesriem tu as 2 solutions. soit tu profites du Desert Homestead en faisant par exemple leur sundowner à cheval, soit tu vas déjà dans le parc du namib Nauklult passer la fin d'après-midi et pour visiter le Canyon de Sesriem et voir le coucher de soleil sur la dune Elim par exemple.
tu auras largement le temps de profiter des dunes en 1 journée complète + éventuellement une fin d'après-midi
Pas de quoi 😉
je vois que sur l'autre forum on te donne les même conseils 😉
personnelement je ne perdrais pas de temps à faire ce détour.
A Mariental tu peux faire un arrêt sympa au Hardap dam reserve
en arrivant sur Sesriem tu as 2 solutions. soit tu profites du Desert Homestead en faisant par exemple leur sundowner à cheval, soit tu vas déjà dans le parc du namib Nauklult passer la fin d'après-midi et pour visiter le Canyon de Sesriem et voir le coucher de soleil sur la dune Elim par exemple.
tu auras largement le temps de profiter des dunes en 1 journée complète + éventuellement une fin d'après-midi
Y-a-t il un intérêt à ne dormir qu'une nuit au desert homestead puis la 2nd nuit plus proche du parc ou des dunes, par exemple au sossus dune lodge ou au hoodia desert camp?
par exemple en arrivant de mariental, on va au desert homestead faire le sundowner à cheval. Le lendemain matin on part tôt pour faire les dunes puis on dort le soir au sossus dune lodge par exemple?
ou alors peut-on garder les 2 nuits au desert homestead et tout faire depuis ce "camp de base" ?
ben là c'est surtout ton portefeuille qui décide !!
c'est sûr que la solution Sossus dune est la meilleure
le Sossus dune est le seul lodge à l'intérieur du parc mais c'est excessivement cher (400 € la nuit pour 2)
L'avantage pouvoir partir bien avant le lever du soleil pour pouvoir le soleil se lever depuis les dunes (c'est magique) et rentrer plus tard aussi après le coucher du soleil.
Desert Homestead ou Hoodia c'est kif kif, on est pas à 5 km près.
après ce qui décide aussi c'est la disponibilité. C'est prévu pour quand déjà ?
L'avantage pouvoir partir bien avant le lever du soleil pour pouvoir le soleil se lever depuis les dunes (c'est magique) et rentrer plus tard aussi après le coucher du soleil.
Je m'y perd un peu : je pensais que seul le camping de sessriem permettait de partir une heure avant le lever du soleil. Ce privilège semble profiter à d'autres structures : Sossus Dune Lodge, mais aussi Sossusvlei Lodge ? Ou bien ils jouent sur les mots ?
A quoi ça sert alors de se taper la poussière, le bruit et tout ? (si ce n'est le prix bien sûr) 😉
il y a 2 possibilités et seulement 2 de loger dans le parc et de pouvoir ainsi partir avant le lever du soleil.
Le camping de Sesriem à 25 € la nuit et le sossus dune lodge à 400 € la nuit. les 2 sont gérés par la NWR.
Le sossus dune lodge comprend 25 bungalows et est situé près du canyon de sesriem
Sossuvlei lodge est près de l'entrée mais pas dans le parc, il faut donc attendre l'ouverture
Après etosha et avant windhoek et le vol de retour, on a donc 1 nuit vers otjiwarongo.
On a 3 possibilités :
- dormir au waterberg barnabe rest camp et faire le parc waterberg
- dormir au okonjima camp, siège de l'association africat
- dormir au Frans indongo lodg
Sinon pour répondre a ta question vis a vis des disponibilités, on y sera les 2 premières semaines de septembre...j'espère que tout ne sera pas plein...
là encore tout est question de budget
Alors si tu peux te le permettre sans hésiter Okonjima. c'est ce qui se fait de mieux avec des activités vraiment au top.
ensuite Frans Indongo pour ses activités aussi et sa proximité avec le CCF
Parceque si on dort chez africat a okonjima, on va faire les activités sur place avec les guépards et les léopards et je pense pas qu'on ait le temps de faire une excursion au plateau du waterberg...
Autre question sur etosha. Pour l'instant on passe une nuit au dolomite a l'ouest, une nuit a okaukuejo puis une nuit a namatoni. On traverse ainsi le parc d'ouest en est.
Une alternative serait de passer 1 nuit au dolomite puis 2 nuits a okaukuejo ( et supprimer namutoni) et aller se balader dans l'est du parc depuis okaukuejo.
le Waterberg, c'est pour ceux qui aiment la rando. Il faut y rester au moins une journée entière soit 2 nuits pour pouvoir vraiment l'apprécier.
de plus il n'y a guère d'animaux.
Pour Etosha, oui 2 nuits à okakeijo pourraient être aussi une solution
Perso j'aime bien faire les 3 camps du parc ce qui permet de l'explorer à fond. D'ailleurs l'année dernière c'est dans la partie Est (Halali - Namutoni) que nous avons fait les plus belles rencontres
le Waterberg, c'est pour ceux qui aiment la rando. Il faut y rester au moins une journée entière soit 2 nuits pour pouvoir vraiment l'apprécier.
de plus il n'y a guère d'animaux.
Pour Etosha, oui 2 nuits à okakeijo pourraient être aussi une solution
Perso j'aime bien faire les 3 camps du parc ce qui permet de l'explorer à fond. D'ailleurs l'année dernière c'est dans la partie Est (Halali - Namutoni) que nous avons fait les plus belles rencontres
Et cela présente-t-il un intérêt de faire un détour sur le chemin Namutoni-otjiwarongo pour s'approcher du waterberg et pouvoir voir le plateau d'en bas mais sans y monter? Ou alors en excursion depuis otjiwarongo, juste pour s'en approcher?
Le Waterberg, je m'y suis arrêté 2 fois. La 2ème parce qu'il fallait bien dormir quelque part !
Si ton itinéraire ne t'amène pas à y dormir, tu le verras de loin et ça ira bien. Sinon, en payant l'entrée du parc, tu peux faire la balade jusqu'au rebord du plateau en 1h30 / 2h maxi, la seule possible de toute façon. C'est assez joli, on y croise des babouins et des damans de rochers principalement.
Pour autant que je me souvienne, il n'est possible de faire des randos sur le plateau que sur plusieurs jours avec des bivouacs.
Si tu y dors finalement, 2 options :
- le camp NWR, pas terrible mais permet la balade jusqu'au plateau.
- Waterberg Plateau Park un peu plus loin, beaucoup mieux mais pas d'accès au plateau lui-même. De belles balades à pied autour mais on n'y a pas vu d'animaux. Ils organisent un game-drive (cher) dans le bush au pied du plateau.
Bon j'ai eu le retour de VDM sur les réservations de logements...
Windhoek : Amani lodge --> OK
Kalahari : Bagatelle Kalahari Ranch --> OK
Sesriem : The Desert Homestead 2 nuits --> OK
Swakopmund : Cornerstone guesthouse 2 nuits --> complêt
Brandberg : White lady lodge --> complêt
Grootberg : Grootberg lodge 2 nuits --> OK
Etosha ouest : Dolomite camp --> OK
Etosha ouest : Okaukuejo --> complêt
Etosha est : Namutoni --> complêt en standard room mais OK pour un bush chalet
Otjiwarongo : Frans indongo lodge --> waiting list mais ça devrait être OK
Windhoek : Terra Africa guesthouse --> OK
Je suis ennuyé pour Okaukuejo mais je me dis que ça aurait pu être pire.
Du coup, VDM nous propose les alternatives suivantes :
Swakopmund : une autre guesthouse dont je n'ai pas encore le nom mais équivalente
Brandberg : pour l'instant ils ont mis une option sur l'Abadi Mountain camp de Twyfelfuntein (ce qui rallonge notre route depuis swakpmund) mais ils ont demandé à leur correspondant local de chercher un lodge plus proche de Brandberg (sur Uis peut-être)
Okaukuejo : VDM a mis une option sur Halali à la place (ou il ne restait qu'une honeymoon suite). Mais du coup je ml'interroge car Halali est plus à l'est qu'Okaukuejo et cela risque donc de faire une très grosse étape depuis le dolomite camp qui est tout à l'ouest du parc. Par ailleurs, Halali est proche de Namutoni je crois donc il n'y a peut-être plus trop d'intérêt à changer de rest camp. Ne vaut-il pas mieux du coup garder le même pour les deux nuits, mais si oui lequel?
Dernière option, remplacer okaukuejo par un lodge en bordure du parc mais dans la même zone pour garder la logique "3 rest camp pour 3 zones du parcs"...
Pas si mal effectivement !
Uis… Pas terrible… Mieux vaut monter jusqu'à Twyfelfontein…
Si j'ai tout compris, tu n'as le droit de parcourir la partie Ouest d'Etosha que si tu as 2 résas consécutives à Dolomite et Okaukuejo…Je ne sais pas si tu pourrais avoir une "dérogation" pour Halali, sans doute que oui. Mais pour une nuit hors du parc, c'est à peu près sûr que non !
Je suis ennuyé pour Okaukuejo mais je me dis que ça aurait pu être pire
Tu n'envisages pas de le remplacer par Halali...s'il reste de la place ? !
Bonne chance ! 😉
Pas si mal effectivement !
Uis… Pas terrible… Mieux vaut monter jusqu'à Twyfelfontein…
Si j'ai tout compris, tu n'as le droit de parcourir la partie Ouest d'Etosha que si tu as 2 résas consécutives à Dolomite et Okaukuejo…Je ne sais pas si tu pourrais avoir une "dérogation" pour Halali, sans doute que oui. Mais pour une nuit hors du parc, c'est à peu près sûr que non !
Merde je savais pas cette histoire d'autorisation pour traverser le parc d'ouest en est. Je vais demander à VDM de se renseigner et j'ai de mon côté envoyé un mail au contact de l'Etosha NP pour avoir leur avis.
Si je suis obligé de ressortir du parc après dolomite pour le contourner par le sud avant de re-rentrer dedans pour rejoindre Halali, c'est la m****!
Et ca va être super long. Dans ce cas, autant dormir à la lisière du parc vers la porte qui donne sur okaukuejo et rentrer dans le parc au petit matin peut-être ?
Si je peux traverser le parc, tu penses que Dolomite camp --> Halali en une journée ça se fait? (vu qu'Halali est encore plus à l'est qu'Okaukuejo).
Pour finir, garder 1 nuit à Halali et 1 nuit a Namutoni a-t-il encore du sens? ou alors devrais-je regrouper les 2 nuits à Halali?
Pour Brandberg, si je dois monter jusqu'à Twyfelfuntein directement, ca va faire une longue étape car en partant de swakopmund on veut passer d'abord à Cape Cross. Donc swakopmund --> cape cross --> twyfelfuntein, ça risque d'être très long non?
Je suis ennuyé pour Okaukuejo mais je me dis que ça aurait pu être pire
Tu n'envisages pas de le remplacer par Halali...s'il reste de la place ? !
Bonne chance ! 😉
Hello
Je vais regarder le Brandberg rest camp...
Pour okaukuejo, on a booké la nuit à Halali pour être sûr d'avoir quelquechose mais du coup ça remet quelque peu en question mon itinéraire puisque la logique était de dormir à Dolomite puis à Okaukuejo puis à Namutoni pour avoir des étapes pas trop longues et pouvoir traverser le parc d'ouest en est.
Halali étant assez proche de namutoni ca rallonge beaucoup la 1ère étape qui devient Dolomite --> Halali et ça limite l'intérêt de dormir dans 2 parcs différents (la distance entre Okaukuejo et Namutoni le justifiait mais celle entre Halali et Namutoni le justifie peut-etre moins)
La dessus se greffe en plus l'histoire d'autorisation mentionnée par notre ami vinnylove pour traverser le parc d'ouest en est qui nécessiterait d'avoir une résa à Dolomite puis à Okaukuejo (alors que maintenant ma 2nde résa est à Halali)...
Le Brandberg restcamp de Uis est très bien, nous y sommes passé une nuit pour faire la visite du Brandberg, les proprios sont très sympa surtout le père qui s'appelle Bazil.
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Ça ne répond pas aux autres questions, mais la traversée de bout en bout d'Etosha dans la journée se fait sans problème. De toute façon on y passe ses journées dans la bagnole à la recherche des animaux… Donc Dolomite / Halali, pourquoi pas si la NWR te laisse faire.
Et si je suis obligé de sortir du parc après dolomite afin de le contourner par le sud et re-rentrer ensuite pour rejoindre Halali... ça se fait dans le journée?
Si je me lève très tot et que je me ballade pour faire les waterhole autour de Dolomite camp jusqu'à 11h par exemple... ensuite je décolle pour Halali par la route extérieure au parc ?
Ça doit être jouable, mais du coup je ne vois pas trop l'intérêt de la journée… Bouffer du goudron pour contourner ça n'a rien à voir avec la découverte des animaux et du parc…
Pour te donner une idée, en partant d'Hobatere vers 8h30/9h, on était à Okaukuejo pour déjeuner sans se presser. Okaukuejo/Halali en faisant au plus direct et sans s'arrêter se fait en 2h00 maxi.
Ben je suis bien d'accord avec toi. J'espère donc pouvoir traverser le parc de Dolomite à Halali.
Voyageurs du monde a demandé à son correspondant local de se renseigner. Je devrais avoir un retour début de semaine et on avisera alors sur l'intérêt de modifier le trajet.
Si je n'ai pas le droit de traverser, je peux par exemple laisser tomber Dolomite, dormir à l'orée du parc à la place puis 2 nuits à Halali et Namutoni ou juste Halali par exemple.
Mais je trouver ça dommage de ne pas dormir à Dolomite et ainsi pouvoir parcourir un peu l'ouest du parc fermé aux touristes jusque là (en plus comme seuls les gens avec une réservation à Dolomite pourront entrer dans le parc à cet endroit là, on est sûr de ne pas être 50000)
Hello à tous.
je me suis renseigné en contactant le parc via le mail disponible sur son web site. Je vous colle nos échanges ci-après.
Pour rappel, je souhaitais être sur de pouvoir traverser le parc d'ouest en est, de Dolomite camp à Halali camp (n'ayant pas pu avoir de résa à Okaukuejo)
Mon 1er mail : "Dear Sir, Madam, We will visit Etosha National Park first week of September and we have a question regarding driving rules within the park.
We have a booking for one night at Dolomite camp and then for another night at Halali camp (Okaukuejo being fully booked at that date).
Will we be allowed to cross the park from west to east to go from Dolomite camp to Halali? In other words, can we drive through the park from Dolomite camp to Halali camp when we have a booking in both rest camps?
Thanks a lot for your anwser."
réponse "Hi Yes you are able to drive through the park to get to Halali, it a great game drive route that will take you most of the day. Enjoy it!"
2ème mail de ma part "Thanks a lot for your e-mail. I am verry pleased to read that. Because on the internet, you can sometimes read that : - you can access Etosha park at Galton gate only if you have a booking at Dolomite camp (ok for us since we have a booking) - you can drive through the park from west to east, which means from Dolomite to Okaukuejo and halali only if you have a booking at Okaukuejo for the 2nd night (if it's not the case, it is sometimes said that you must go out the park, drive via Kamanjab and re-enter the park). As I was not able to get a booking at Okaukuejo for the 2nd night but only at Halali I was a bit worried."
2ème réponse reçue "I have just double checked with the park itself and they say that you are allowed to drive to Halali through the park."
Yep, je suis content de pouvoir traverser le parc... Ca nous évite d'avoir à revoir notre itinéraire du fait de l'obligation de sortir du parc pour le contourner.
Du coup, je pense qu'on va rester sur ce qui a été réservé pour l'instant pour les 3 nuits à Etosha, à savoir:
Dolomite camp
Halali honeymoon suite
Namutoni bush chalet
Ca nous permettra de voir toutes les facettes du parc. On se tate pour faire un safari de nuit a Halali ou Namutoni (peut-être plus Namutoni car lorsqu'on va arriver à Halali on aura déjà fait une journée complête pour rejoindre le camp depuis Dolomite) ? Vous en pensez-quoi?
Dernière inconnu : Brandberg. Pour l'instant on a la résa au Abadi mountain camp de Twyfelfuntein pour ne pas dormir à la rue mais on attend toujours le retour de VDM sur la possibiltié de nous loger vers le Brandberg.
Mouais.. je suis pas fan des safaris de nuit.
j'ai toujours été déçu !!
D'un autre côté je n'ai pas fait ceux d'Etosha... bah contente toi des points d'eau éclairés, c'est le grand défilé.
J'en ai fait un à Hobatere --> À peu près rien vu ! Par moment deux yeux brillants mais le guide détourne aussitôt la lumière pour ne pas gêner la bestiole. En plus, il fait très froid, la nuit ! Donc comme Vinny, bof…
Mouais.. je suis pas fan des safaris de nuit.
j'ai toujours été déçu !!
D'un autre côté je n'ai pas fait ceux d'Etosha... bah contente toi des points d'eau éclairés, c'est le grand défilé.
Merci pour le conseil
Pour les points d'eau éclairés, tu parles de ceux qui sont dans les camps? Parcequ'on ne peut pas conduire de nuit dans le parc il me semble nan?
Les départs se font de Walvis bay mais si tu dors à swakop ce n'est pas un problème, il n'y a que 30 bornes.
J'ai pris la compagnie Sandwich Harbour et j'en ai effectivement été enchanté.
perso j'aime bien dormir une nuit à walvis et une nuit à swakop
Walvis est encore "sauvage" autour de la lagune. Le coucher de soleil, les flamants roses et 2 restos super sympa ( le Lyon des sables et le Raft)
Swakop est plus côté "station balnéaire". la ville, les magasins, du monde
bref comme j'aime les 2 je fais les 2 😛
Mais comme je te dissais si tu es à swakop, c'est pas grave tu as 1/2 heure de bagnole à faire
le tour ne part qu'à 9h00, donc t'as même le temps de faire la grasse mat 😉
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana / Zimbabwe · 16 replies
Nous allons partir cet été sur Johannesbourg ensuite le kalaghadi transfortier park dont nous allons sortir Mata Mata vers la Namibie (direction le Nord de la…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Namibie · 11 replies
Nous sommes 6 (2 adultes et 4 enfants) et nous partons à la découverte de la Namibie et du Botswana en Août prochain en camping car. L'itinéraire est bouclé,…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana · 7 replies
Nous partons (4 pers) 28 jours en Namibie et Botswana avec un toyota Condor (2*4) et des tentes (pas de lodges). Je souhaiterai avoir vos avis sur l'itinéraire…
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Je recherche des avis sur un itineraire proposé par un TO bien connu en france. c'est un voyage en 4x4 camping avec quelques hebergements en "dur". en aout…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?