Je pars avec mon amie, à Madagascar à partir du 18 Juillet en version sac à dos. Nous arrivons le Dimanche 18 Juillet au matin et repartons le 08 Aout au matin!
Ce fait 21 jours plein sur place.
Nous sommes en plein réflexion d'itinéraire et le problème.... c'est que tout à l'air génial!! A priori nous n'avons pas le budget pour louer de 4x4 tous les deux. Par contre si des personnes sont intéressées pour partager les frais, dans le cas où l'on serait au même endroit au même moment, nous sommes plus que partant :)
Car il semble qu'en Taxi-Brousse, en prenant en compte la durée de notre voyage, on n'ait guère plus de temps que faire Tana->Tulear, Tulear->Tana. Ce qui est déjà génial, mais nous aurions souhaité nous écarter d'avantage des grandes routes...
Pour le moment nous avons en tête :
Tana --> Fianarantsoa en taxi brousse
Fianarantsoa --> Manakara en Train
Manakara --> Finarantsoa en Taxi Brousse
Fianarantsoa --> Ranohira (Alors là j'ai pas vraiment compris comment on y aller... sur le routard ils ont pas l'air de dire qu'il y a des taxi brousses directs... si vous avez des infos :))
quelques ballades dans l'Isalo (plutôt camping)
Ranohira --> Tulear
Et c'est à partir de là que ça se complique.... peut être que pour 21 jours cela est suffisant... on aimerait bien pousser plus loin.
On pensait à deux options :
Tulear-->Morondava pour aller voir les Tsingys
ou
Tulear-->Port Dauphin par la côte.
Hors dans les deux cas il semble que ce ne soit possible qu'en 4x4 (ou alors ultra galère en taxi brousse à moins que vous ne me disiez le contraire).
Du coup deux petites questions :
- Est ce qu'après Tulear vous pensez qu'on aurait le temps de pousser un peu plus loin ?
- Qu'est ce qui est faisable depuis Tulear en taxi brousse (ou autre moyen low-cost) dans nos temps ?
- Est ce que des gens se retrouveraient à Tulear ou dans l'Isalo en même temps que nous, et nous pourrions partager les frais du 4*4 ? (cependant je n'ai aucune idée des prix des 4*4, j'ai vu dans les 100€ par jour plus l'essence... ça me parait vraiment beaucoup)!
Merci d'avance pour votre aide, ça nous sera forcément utile, parceque j'ai beau lire le Routard en long, en large et en travers je comprends pas tout...
Merci
Question Subsidiaire : pour rejoindre Anakao depuis Tulear il n'y a que le bateau à 40€ l'aller/retour ? Ca me parait cher!
en courant ou en ce goupillant bien peut etre remonté sur morondava ce qui fera une boucle a ton voyage mais déjà c est trop
mais les tsingy en plus pas possible pas le temps
moi je serai toi je ferai ton projet sans les plus en prenant le temps mais vous n en avez pas trop...
tu peux allez a anakao en taxi brousse mais tu vas y passer du temps
mada c est ça soit tu passe du temps soit tu paie la prestation
le truc c est que la prestation est forcément vazaha 😏 par rapport à ce qu'il propose 40 € allez retour n est pas cherrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrpar rapport a mada c est cher mais on retrouve cette problématique dans toute l afrique.
on peut trouver aussi des pirogues pour anakao
mais pensez un truc vous n avez pas énormément de temps
Merci pour la réponse. Effectivement on aurait aimé y rester plus longtemps mais malheureusement les vacances ne sont pas extensibles à l'infini.. (mais bon on part en tour du monde à partir de début 2010 pour un an;))!
On va certainement rester sur le trajet Tana->Tulear, mais je suis quand même un peu frustré de ne pas pouvoir m'éloigner de la N7!
Et est ce que pour une première fois, il vaut mieux (pour le coté nature, paysage, découverte des gens...) faire le trajet Tana->Tulear (qui semble être recommandé un peu partout), ou partir sur un autre itinéraire ? (genre les Tsingys ou coté Ile Sainte-Marie ou autre chose ?)
j ai horreur les gens qui disent pour une premiere fois vaut mieux
pour une première fois ou une 1000 eme fois tu fais ce que tu as envies par rapport a ton budget ton temps ET SURTOUT TES GOUTS
rien n est dur et l expérience ne sert à rien la preuve j ai un pote médecin son fils vient d avoir son diplome il a à 22 euros la consultations comme lui 😏
choisi ton parcours sur tes centres d intêret juste une chose ne cherche pas la course
On est d'accord qu'on se base sur nos goûts et nos budgets etc... mais ne connaissant pas Madagascar, on essaie de s'appuyer au maximum sur l'expérience et l'avis des experts pour maximiser ce qu'on peut voir en 3 semaines tout en profitant.
Et a priori il vaut mieux rester soft. Notre but n'est bien évidemment pas de courir dans tous les sens mais d'en profiter au maximum.
On s'en tiendra certainement à Tana->Tulear a priori.
justement il n y a pas d expert ni de graduation
tout le monde dit une premiere fois a mada c est rn7 ben si tu aimes les paysages tropicaux tu vas etre deçu sur la rn7 et à antsirabé le sable fin est loin ça marche aussi dans l autre sens
et puis pense à voir ce que tu verra et comme tu ne verra pas le reste tu ne sera pas decu 😏
L'itinéraire est pas mal mais c'est vrai que vous allez galèrer un peu côté taxi brousse!
Moi, je t'aurai proposé un
Tana - Antsirabe (1 jour)
Antsirabe- Miandrivazo (1 à 2 jours)
Miandrivazo-Descente de la Tsirihibina en pirogue & bivouac (3 jours)- A organiser éventuellement sur Antsirabe
Tsirihibina- Tsingy (3 jours)
Tsingy-Morondava (allée des baobabs) 1-2 jours
Morondava-Tulear (3 jours yc taxi brousse, c'est la saison sèche)
Une fois arrivés sur Tulear, vous remontez la RN7 en fonction des jours qui vous restent
Il ya bien des taxi brousse Fianar- Ranohira
Location de 4X4: compter plutôt 60€/ Jour + carburant.
Bonjour
Si vous restez sur le trajet RN7, plusieurs possibilités d extension simples qui rajoutent des choses sans rajouter beaucoup de temps :
- Ambalavao qui est un super site : parc de l Andringitra (un des plus beaux), parc de l Anja etc...
- Aller a Morombe, Andavadoaka au dela d Ifaty, pour cela il y a des camions et ca prend un peu de temps mais tres tres beaux sites a decouvrir au bout
Ensuite pour s eloigner de la RN7, il ne faut pas faire beaucoup de kilo et il suffit de prendre son temps. Par exemple a Fianarantsoa, en prenant les taxi brousse de brousse type bachée, possibilité d aller dans les villages ruraux. Choisir les jours de marché car beaucoup d animation et beaucoup de vehicule et pour cela il suffit de demander (1 jour de foire/semaine). Par exemple Mahasoabe au milieu des rizieres, Soatanana et la communauté de l Eveil (les gens en blanc), Andoharanomaitso sous les collines et les roches etc etc... Ca prend une journee ou plus, ca occupe bien et ca vaut le coup. Et cela n a plus rien a voir avec la RN7, juste quelques kilo a droite ou a gauche...
Idem a Antsirabe, location de velos, ballade a Betafo etc...
Bref meme en faisant la RN7, si on prend son temps, facile de s eloigner, la RN7 n est qu une route, 1 km a l est ou a l ouest, on ne la voit deja plus.
L'itinéraire est pas mal mais c'est vrai que vous allez galèrer un peu côté taxi brousse!
Moi, je t'aurai proposé un
Tana - Antsirabe (1 jour)
Antsirabe- Miandrivazo (1 à 2 jours)
Miandrivazo-Descente de la Tsirihibina en pirogue & bivouac (3 jours)- A organiser éventuellement sur Antsirabe
Tsirihibina- Tsingy (3 jours)
Tsingy-Morondava (allée des baobabs) 1-2 jours
Morondava-Tulear (3 jours yc taxi brousse, c'est la saison sèche)
Une fois arrivés sur Tulear, vous remontez la RN7 en fonction des jours qui vous restent
Il ya bien des taxi brousse Fianar- Ranohira
Location de 4X4: compter plutôt 60€/ Jour + carburant.
Bonjour,
Initialement on était parti sur cette idée, mais dans l'autre sens. Mais il semble que ce soit ambitieux notamment le trajet Morondova-Tulear. Petite question quand même. Il est possible de faire ce trajet en plusieurs fois ? Les taxis brousses s'arrêtent-ils dans des villes intermédiaires desquelles il est possible de reprendre un taxi brousse le lendemain ? Ce trajet à l'air vraiment super mais c'est vrai que l'objectif n'est pas courrir, ni de se stresser!
Bonjour
Si vous restez sur le trajet RN7, plusieurs possibilités d extension simples qui rajoutent des choses sans rajouter beaucoup de temps :
- Ambalavao qui est un super site : parc de l Andringitra (un des plus beaux), parc de l Anja etc...
- Aller a Morombe, Andavadoaka au dela d Ifaty, pour cela il y a des camions et ca prend un peu de temps mais tres tres beaux sites a decouvrir au bout
Ensuite pour s eloigner de la RN7, il ne faut pas faire beaucoup de kilo et il suffit de prendre son temps. Par exemple a Fianarantsoa, en prenant les taxi brousse de brousse type bachée, possibilité d aller dans les villages ruraux. Choisir les jours de marché car beaucoup d animation et beaucoup de vehicule et pour cela il suffit de demander (1 jour de foire/semaine). Par exemple Mahasoabe au milieu des rizieres, Soatanana et la communauté de l Eveil (les gens en blanc), Andoharanomaitso sous les collines et les roches etc etc... Ca prend une journee ou plus, ca occupe bien et ca vaut le coup. Et cela n a plus rien a voir avec la RN7, juste quelques kilo a droite ou a gauche...
Idem a Antsirabe, location de velos, ballade a Betafo etc...
Bref meme en faisant la RN7, si on prend son temps, facile de s eloigner, la RN7 n est qu une route, 1 km a l est ou a l ouest, on ne la voit deja plus.
Bon voyage
Merci pour ces informations. C'est peut être effectivement la solution la plus "sage" pour le temps que l'on a. En tout cas je note tous les noms de villes/villages que vous donnez et qui ne sont pas forcément répertoriés dans les guides!
Si vous avez d'autres coin sympa le long de la RN7 nous sommes preneurs bien évidemment :)
entre morondava et tuléar le taxi brousse fait d une traite
en regle générale en dehors des routes principales donc bitumées qui sont desservie par des bus 14 places indument appelé taxi brousses
dans les routes secondaires se sont des vrais taxis brousses qui partent à bloc
donc si tu descends en cours de route pour le suivant il faut espéré qu'une personne fasse de meme
hors les lignes on une logique de voyage malgache et la place très aléatoire ...
c est l inconvénient du taxi brousse
en photo le taxi brousse morondava tuléar 1 fois par semaine
Avec ma femme, pour notre voyage de noces, nous sommes allés à Madagascar l'an dernier avec en tête le même genre d'itinéraire que le tien (RN7 bien sûr et quelques ajouts comme Sainte marie, la côte jusqu'à Morondava et les Tsinguys).
C'est toujours difficile de concilier l'envie de voir beaucoup de choses et de profiter également car ça reste des vacances !!
Nous avions commencé en taxi brousse mais devant les imprévus qui s'accumulaient et la fatigue accumulée par le taxi brousse (compter le temps de route, bien sûr, mais aussi le temps d'attente que le taxi brousse se remplisse, ce qui n'est pas négligeable !), nous avons fait appel à un guide pour le reste du voyage et notamment la côte ouest... magnifique, mais chemins défoncés et plus on s'éloigne de la route principale, mieux ça roule... en effet, ce qui est le pire sur la nationale 9, c'est les bouts de bitume qui restent !!! ça s'est creusé tout autour sauf là où il reste du bitume... d'où des creux énormes (et même en 4x4, c'est galère !!).
Après coup, les parcs que nous avons préféré sont ceux où nous avons passé le plus de temps... Je regrette par exemple n'être passé que quelques heures à Ranomafana. J'aurai voulu randonner plus loin dans la forêt, sur deux ou trois jours... En revanche, je garde un super souvenir de notre virée dans l'Isalo, en randonnant pendant 2 jours sur les hauteurs du massif.
Si votre budget peut s'élargir un peu, envisagez la possibilité d'un guide avec voiture (ou 4x4 là où il faut) et vous gagnerez du temps de transport pour voir peut être un peu plus de choses. Si votre budget est ric rac, prenez les taxis brousse et gardez la RN7 comme fil conducteur en prenant bien votre temps à vos étapes. L'avantage de la crise du tourisme à Mada, c'est que vous pouvez partir sans rien réserver et rester un peu plus là où ça vous plait, faire votre voyage au jour le jour.
Sans trop t'éloigner de la RN7, tu peux passer une journée à Betafo (à 20km d'Antsirabe). Tu pourras te balader derrière le village au mileu des rizières et aller jusqu'aux chutes d'eau (dont j'ai oublié le nom...). La promenade est magnifique!
Je joins le lien d'une ancienne discussion à ce sujet : http://voyageforum.com/voyage/madagascar_il_y_beaucoup_toits_betafo_D3104998/
Tout y est!
Sinon, au départ d'Antsirabe tu peux aussi organiser une "excursion" de quelques jours (une semaine je crois) vers les Tsingy et Morondova en descendant la rivière Tsiribihina. Depuis Morondova tu pourras ensuite rejoindre Antsirabe en taxi brousse (il y a une journée de route je crois).
Tu peux avoir plein d'infos et des contacts en passant à l'hôtel "Chez Billy" à Antsirabe.
Concernant le prix du 4x4, nous revenons de Mada et la location du 4x4 + chauffeur nous a coûté 43€/jour (essence en supplément).
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Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?