Nous partons du 31/7 au 31/8 avec ma copine pour visiter Madagascar. Apres avoir passé pas mal de temps sur internet (en particulier sur VF), voici l'itineraire que nous avons prévu de faire.
vend. 31 juillet Arrivée TANA: 21h55
sam 1er Aout Tana (visite ville/organisation)
dim 2 Aout Tana - Miandrivazo
lundi 3 Aout Descente Tsiribinha
mardi 4 Aout Descente Tsiribinha
merc. 5 Aout Fin descente Tsiribinha jusque Belo s/Tsiribinha puis 4x4 vers Bekopaka
jeudi 6 Aout Tsingy (petit)
vend. 7 Aout Tsingy (grand)
sam 8 Aout Trajet retour Tsingy - Morondava via l'allée des Baobab
dim 9 Aout Morondava (plage, aller retour à Belo sur Mer?)
lundi 10 Aout Vol Morondava - Tulear 10h25-11h25, nuit à Ifaty ou Anakao
mardi 11 Aout Ifaty ou Anakao
merc. 12 Aout Ifaty ou Anakao
jeudi 13 Aout Ifaty - Tulear 1h30 + Tulear - Ranohira 5h
vend. 14 Aout PN Isalo Canyon Mackis/Piscines naturelles
sam 15 Aout PN Isalo Canyon Mackis/Piscines naturelles
dim 16 Aout PN Isalo Canyon Mackis/Piscines naturelles
lundi 17 Aout Ranohira Ranohira - Anbalavao
mardi 18 Aout Anbalavao - Namoly village en taxi brousse - PN Andrigintra - rando pic Bobby
merc 19 Aout PN Andrigintra - rando pic Bobby
jeudi 20 Aout Namoli - Anbalavao (marché au zébu le matin) 1h + Ambavalao - Fianaratsoa 1h30 + Fianarantsoa - Ranomafana - 1h30
vend. 21 Aout Fianarantsoa PN Ranomafana (retour ~13h)
sam 22 Aout Fianarantsoa - Manakara Train (trajet Mardi, Mercredi, Jeudi, Samedi, Dimanche, départ 7h)
dim 23 Aout Manakara balade en VTT, visite de la ville, plage
lundi 24 Aout Manakara pirogue sur le canal des Pangalanes, départ en mini-bus à 17h vers Ambositra
mardi 25 Aout Ambositra Rando village typique Zafimaniry et Ifatsina (pic nic), trajet vers Antsirabe apres.
merc. 26 Aout Rando VTT lacs Andraikiba/ Tritriva/ Tatamarina autour de Antsirabe
jeudi 27 Aout Antsirabe-Tana 3h30TB Visite ville
vend. 28 Aout Tana-Andasibe, visite PN PN Analamazaotra
sam 29 Aout Andasibe-Tana
dim 30 Aout Tana (départ à 1h10 le 31/8)
La premiere question est de savoir si c'est faisable avec un budget limité ou pas (budget limité: taxi brousse et pas voiture individuelle)... ou faut il couper certaines etapes (andasibe? antsirabe?)...
J'ai apres quelques questions plus precises sur certains passage:
1) faut il reserver via une agence la descente Tsiribinha et les Tsingy ou peut on le faire soit meme sur place (descente Tsiribinha reservation à Miandrivazo, Tsingy reservation à Belo s/ Tsiribinha). Si par une agence, laquelle?
2) quel est l'endroit le plus sympa entre Ifaty ou Anakao pour se reposer, aller à la plage et faire un peu de plongée?
3) pour aller au PN Andringintra en taxi brousse (vallée Namoly), j'ai lu qu'il y avait des aller-retour possible le mardi et le jeudi dans le lonely-planet. Est ce bien le cas?
4) pour partir de manakara, j'ai lu dans le lonely planet qu'il y avait des bus partant à 17h pour Tana (via Ambositra et Antsirabe). Est ce bien le cas?
Je vous remercie par avance beaucoup pour vos reponses et conseils. Si vous avez des bons plans n'hesitez pas...
Bon et bien, je dois reconnaite que tu t'es bien penché sur ton trip mais je trouve ton tracé très charger en fait car, à part les endroits balnéaires et bien tu ne te laisses peu de temps pour souffler et en plus avec un budget serré, tu te fais quand même pas mal de plaisirs et c'est très bien.
A ta place déjà, j'abandonnerais Andasibé car cela te prendra encore plus de temps durant ce voyage et il faut y aller plus cool en fait, il faut bien sur tracer son trajet mais tu sais il y a les aléas du voyage et donc tu peux te trouver très bien dans un endroit où tu avais prévu peu de temps et le contraire ailleurs.
Mada c'est aussi un pays où le contact avec les locaux c'est que du bonheur et si tu aimes cela et bien, il ne faut pas hésiter.
On a toujours tendance la première fois que l'on va dans un pays de vouloir en faire de trop et il ne faut pas faire cette erreur surtour que je suis sur, que vous serez content de ce trip et que vous voudrez revenir dans ce pays.
Sinon à part cela et en étant chronométrer, effectivement ton programme un peu modifier tient la route.
Amicalement😉
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Nous partons du 31/7 au 31/8 avec ma copine pour visiter Madagascar. Apres avoir passé pas mal de temps sur internet (en particulier sur VF), voici l'itineraire que nous avons prévu de faire.
vend. 31 juillet Arrivée TANA: 21h55
sam 1er Aout Tana (visite ville/organisation)
Dans ce cas tu dois avoir fait TOUTE l'organisation et surtout le choix des guides avant d'arriver sur place
dim 2 Aout Tana - Miandrivazo
lundi 3 Aout Descente Tsiribinha
mardi 4 Aout Descente Tsiribinha
merc. 5 Aout Fin descente Tsiribinha jusque Belo s/Tsiribinha puis 4x4 vers Bekopaka
jeudi 6 Aout Tsingy (petit)
vend. 7 Aout Tsingy (grand)
sam 8 Aout Trajet retour Tsingy - Morondava via l'allée des Baobab
dim 9 Aout Morondava (plage, aller retour à Belo sur Mer?)
lundi 10 Aout Vol Morondava - Tulear 10h25-11h25, nuit à Ifaty ou Anakao
mardi 11 Aout Ifaty ou Anakao
merc. 12 Aout Ifaty ou Anakao
jeudi 13 Aout Ifaty - Tulear 1h30 + Tulear - Ranohira 5h
vend. 14 Aout PN Isalo Canyon Mackis/Piscines naturelles
sam 15 Aout PN Isalo Canyon Mackis/Piscines naturelles
dim 16 Aout PN Isalo Canyon Mackis/Piscines naturelles
Trois jours dans l'Isalo n'es pas donné et canyon de makis-piscine naturelle se fait facilement dans la journée, les deux autres jours tu fais quoi?
lundi 17 Aout Ranohira Ranohira - Anbalavao
mardi 18 Aout Anbalavao - Namoly village en taxi brousse - PN Andrigintra - rando pic Bobby
merc 19 Aout PN Andrigintra - rando pic Bobby
jeudi 20 Aout Namoli - Anbalavao (marché au zébu le matin) 1h + Ambavalao - Fianaratsoa 1h30 + Fianarantsoa - Ranomafana - 1h30
vend. 21 Aout Fianarantsoa PN Ranomafana (retour ~13h)
sam 22 Aout Fianarantsoa - Manakara Train (trajet Mardi, Mercredi, Jeudi, Samedi, Dimanche, départ 7h)
Samedi c'est bon pour le trais mais sauf changement récent pour le sens Fianarantsoa-Manakara c'est mardi, jeudi et samedi SEULEMENT
dim 23 Aout Manakara balade en VTT, visite de la ville, plage
lundi 24 Aout Manakara pirogue sur le canal des Pangalanes, départ en mini-bus à 17h vers Ambositra (pourquoi à 17h ???)
mardi 25 Aout Ambositra Rando village typique Zafimaniry et Ifatsina (pic nic), trajet vers Antsirabe apres.
merc. 26 Aout Rando VTT lacs Andraikiba/ Tritriva/ Tatamarina autour de Antsirabe
jeudi 27 Aout Antsirabe-Tana 3h30TB Visite ville
vend. 28 Aout Tana-Andasibe, visite PN PN Analamazaotra
sam 29 Aout Andasibe-Tana
dim 30 Aout Tana (départ à 1h10 le 31/8)
La premiere question est de savoir si c'est faisable avec un budget limité ou pas (budget limité: taxi brousse et pas voiture individuelle)... ou faut il couper certaines etapes (andasibe? antsirabe?)...
Avec un budget limité c'est pas le top car tu fais toutes les étapes qui coûtent cher, pour la logistique tu voyage il y a également des points noirs. Difficile de repartir à certains endroits en taxibrousse (Ranomafana, Andasibe par exemple)
J'ai apres quelques questions plus precises sur certains passage:
1) faut il reserver via une agence la descente Tsiribinha et les Tsingy ou peut on le faire soit meme sur place (descente Tsiribinha reservation à Miandrivazo, Tsingy reservation à Belo s/ Tsiribinha). Si par une agence, laquelle?
Pas besoin d'agence mais je te conseille de prendre un(e) bon(nne) guide à Antsirabe plutot que à Miandrivazo et pour en trouver il faut du temps qui vous n'avez pas prévu
2) quel est l'endroit le plus sympa entre Ifaty ou Anakao pour se reposer, aller à la plage et faire un peu de plongée?
Par facilité Ifaty
3) pour aller au PN Andringintra en taxi brousse (vallée Namoly), j'ai lu qu'il y avait des aller-retour possible le mardi et le jeudi dans le lonely-planet. Est ce bien le cas?
En général les guides s'occupent du transfert
4) pour partir de manakara, j'ai lu dans le lonely planet qu'il y avait des bus partant à 17h pour Tana (via Ambositra et Antsirabe). Est ce bien le cas?
Parler d'horaires mefait sourire😎
Je vous remercie par avance beaucoup pour vos reponses et conseils. Si vous avez des bons plans n'hesitez pas...
Twix75
Bonsoir,
Par commodité je me permets d'intevenir directement dans ton texte pour quelques remarques.
Project a vivid image of what you seek into the landscape of your life. What greets you on your way will be the images of your own creation
moi pour la tsiribina j avais pris un piroguier free lance c etait top je l ai pris a mandrivazzo mais j avais le temps en plus on a vagabonder sur la tsiribina et la région des lacs sacrés puisque je l ai descendu en 8 jours ... c est ce que je desirais.
comme dit tamerlan ton parcours est etudié mais tu ne souffle jamais je ne critique pas c est une facon de voyager ... ce n est pas la mienne.
en voyage on parle de voir moi je pense qu il n y a rien a voir nul par et que pour voir internet est l agence de voyage la mieux positionnée et si on essayait de ressentir ?
Je suis Jérémi et j'ai 29 ans et j'habite sur Strasbourg. Voila, je vais faire un voyage à Madagascar dans le même style de voyage que vous ( en sac à dos). J'ai déjà pris mon billet d'avion du 5 aout au 11 septembre 2009. Comme je suis tout seul pour l'instant, je suis à la recherche de compagnon de voyage. Mon circuit n'est pas encore défini et je m'adapte aux autres. Je suis malgache originaire de tamatave et je parle le malgache. J'y était pour la derniere fois en 2007 mais c'était en famille. J'ai de la famille dans plusieurs villes. J'ai des cousins routiers qui sillonnes tout le pays. Je cherche à découvrir madagascar et ses beaux paysages.
Jeremi tel 06 75 62 39 01 ou doudou11179@hotmail.fr
Ma demande et sérieuse et mon billet est déjà acheté.
Pour l'Isalo, 3 jours me paraissent beaucoup également. Une option sympa et qui évite de n'aller que dans les canyons pas si extra que ça est de randonner 2 jours dans le massif avec bivouac dans le parc. Notre circuit partait du canyon des makis et rando sur les hauteurs (très belles vues de l'Isalo !) et en fin d'après midi, quand t'a eu bien chaud, arrivée aux piscines bleues et noires... quel bonheur !
Le lendemain, petite rando de 3-4h jusqu'à la piscine naturelle.
Sinon, Idem pour les trajets en taxi brousse, il n'y a probablement pas d'horaires : le taxi attend d'être plein pour partir (c'est pour ça que c'est pas cher) et il se remplis plus vite le matin. De plus, beaucoup de taxi brousse et de chauffeurs guides essaient de ne pas rouler de nuit car c'est plus dangereux pour tout le monde. Difficile de repartir de Ranohira et de RAnomafana notamment car ce ne sont pas des terminus de taxi brousse et il faut espérer qu'une place s'est libérée en route.
Ce ne sera pas possible de faire l'aller retour sur une journée à Belo sur mer.
J'avais fait morondave - ankevo sur mer (petit village de pecheur avant Belo/mer) en pirogue à moteur en 3heures.
D'ailleurs le séjour à Ankevo est un de mes meilleurs souvenirs de voyage. Bungalow sur la plage en face de la mer, dans un village très accueillant.
Pour plus d'infos www.ankevo.com mais je ne sais pas où en est la re-construction après le cyclone.
Mais si tu décides d'y aller tu devras renoncer à quelque chose ce qui est tjs difficile.
Ton pgm a quand même l'air chargé surtout si tu te déplaces en taxi brousse.
Bonjour, je pense aussi que ton itinéraire est très chargé : il te faudra l'alléger et faire des choix. Pour le massif de l'Isalo, je te recommande en particulier la ballade de La cascade des nymphes où tu verras des lémuriens à coup sûr.
entre Anakao et Ifaty, pas d'hésitation: choisis Ifaty ou plutôt Mangily : plage magnifique, village de pècheurs Vezo, barrière de corail, baleines (voir Richard sur la plage) club de plongée, ballage en pirogue et resto "Le Lagon"...etc
bon voyage!
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Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
