Family Trip Itinerary for the Yucatán
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Translated into English.

Original post
ST
Hi there,

Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.

We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.

Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among: - Playa del Carmen - Cozumel - Holbox - Valladolid - Tulum - Mahahual

We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.

Thanks in advance!

Stéphane
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
Hi there,

Don’t you feel like getting a little off the beaten path from the sites you’ve already visited, where you run into more foreign tourists than Mexicans?

I’d definitely recommend Bacalar and its stunning Laguna de los 7 Colores. Sure, there are tourists, but it’s nothing like (what I think is the awful) Playa del Carmen. In this southern part of the Yucatán Peninsula, you can explore the incredible Mayan site of Calakmul, hidden deep in the jungle, which has nothing to envy Chichén Itzá but gets way fewer visitors.
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
DE Delrome Regular ·
Hi there, here’s our pretty detailed account of our trip to Mexico three years ago. https://www.voyagesetenfants.com/3-semaines-mexique-en-famille-yucatan-mexico/ I think it’ll help, but I’m happy to answer any other questions you might have.

As for renting a car, it’ll give you a lot more freedom. We didn’t run into any police checks or anything like that. That said, watch out for the *topes*—they’re more like low walls, and some travelers have had serious undercarriage damage with hefty repair bills afterward. They’re well marked, though, so just keep an eye out.

It’s a great destination for older teens. Mérida isn’t on your list, but it’s a fun city in the evenings—there’s plenty going on, which might be nice for your daughters.

Fun fact: aside from the usual souvenirs, we also *composed* our youngest, who arrived nine months later.

Have a fantastic trip!
del
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Thanks for your reply! A bit delayed since I didn’t get notified of the response.

I’d really like to mix beach time and sightseeing without being in the middle of tourist crowds—and also without covering too many kilometers.

I’m thinking of going to Bacalar, but I’m not sure if three or four nights is too much or not. I like the idea of spending two nights in Puerto Morelos to acclimate and avoid the touristy spots.

Then three nights in Tulum. We’ll skip Mahahual and opt for three or four nights in Bacalar instead.

That leaves me with 5 nights where I’m not sure where to go without traveling too far. We’ll skip Holbox.

Calakmul, Celestún, Mérida, and Campeche seem hard to fit into a 12-day, 13-night trip. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers or change hotels too often.

What do you think of this itinerary for a 12-day, 13-night trip with my girlfriend and my daughters (15 and 19)?
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Thanks Delphine for the travel journal!

For now, I was thinking: Puerto Morelos – 2-3 nights to avoid Playa del Carmen Tulum – 3 nights, trying to steer clear of the crowds Bacalar – 3 nights Valladolid – 2 nights Around Cancún – 2-3 nights to finish (beach / Puerto Morelos)

I’m open to any advice on the itinerary before I dive into the details for each stop.

Stéphane
DE Delrome Regular ·
Happy to help! Your itinerary looks great. For the hotels: - The hotel Posada del Brujo in Huay Pix. 15 minutes from Bacalar, less concrete and less touristy.

- In Valladolid, Airbnb host Maria Camelia. Very central, mini-pool’s really nice.
del
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Thanks!

I’ve rethought the possible itinerary: Two days at the start to acclimate, Then Valladolid, Mérida, and a long leg to Bacalar, followed by a drive back up via Tulum. Final night near Cancún to avoid too much driving on the departure day (flight at 1:45 PM on the 1st). In Valladolid and Mérida, we’ll do day trips to the surrounding areas, And relax a bit in Bacalar.

13 nights / 12 days feels a little short, and I’m worried we might try to do too much. What do you think?

Thanks in advance, Stéphane

DateNightKmHours Fri. Dec 19, 25Puerto Morelos400.5 Sat. Dec 20, 25Puerto Morelos Sun. Dec 21, 25Valladolid1802 Mon. Dec 22, 25Valladolid Tue. Dec 23, 25Mérida1602 Wed. Dec 24, 25Mérida Thu. Dec 25, 25Mérida Fri. Dec 26, 25Bacalar3454.5 Sat. Dec 27, 25Bacalar Sun. Dec 28, 25Bacalar Mon. Dec 29, 25Tulum2102.5 Tue. Dec 30, 25Tulum Wed. Dec 31, 25Puerto Morelos1001.5 Thu. Jan 1, 26Flight
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Hi there, I’ve put together three itineraries for our 13 nights / 12 days. Obviously, three different routes. I’ll leave them here for you to comment on so I can decide before diving into the details. Thanks in advance! Stéphane
DE Delrome Regular ·
That sounds good to me, maybe a bit too much time in Cancun. For the last night, I agree with you—I always do that in the city where we take off. I haven’t heard much good about Cancun—it’s built-up and overcrowded... that’s why we headed straight to Tulum, but you’ve got to be up for driving a bit (about 1h30, I think) after getting off the plane. Don’t be afraid to drive even a little longer—the roads are really good and straight. Finally, try to check online to avoid the sargassum, even though it can move around. Your itinerary looks good to me—you really shouldn’t try to do everything. It’s better to plan to come back and see the rest later.
del
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
I just have one reservation about your proposed itinerary—those 3 nights in Mérida. Sure, there’s a lovely Plaza Grande, but we personally didn’t click with the city, which is very spread out. Getting around was pretty tough (that was our experience), and if it’s meant to be a base for exploring the region, you might end up wasting a lot of time just trying to leave the city center.

That said, in that area, we *loved* the Noh-Mozon cenote. There are tons of cenotes in the region, including around Valladolid, but this one is barely touristy despite being absolutely stunning. When we arrived, there was only one other car there, and after 15 minutes, we had the cenote all to ourselves! It’s probably because the last few kilometers are on a dirt road, but it’s totally worth it.

Good luck with your trip planning!
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Thanks for the tips! I'm still hesitating about the itinerary
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Our itinerary is taking shape thanks to all the great tips! After discussing with my friends and my daughters, we’re leaning toward the route below.

For now, I’ve identified two hotels. I’d love some recommendations for nice mid-range hotels!

Thanks in advance!

Stéphane

Puerto Morelos – 3 Nights – 40 km – 0.5 h Hacienda Morelos – 100 € / night Bacalar – 3 Nights – 300 km – 4.0 h Amigos Hostelito – 135 € / night Valladolid – 3 Nights – 260 km – 3.5 h ??? Holbox – 4 Nights – 160 km – 2.0 h ??? Cancun Airport – 150 km – 2.0 h Total: 910 km – 12.0 h
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
It's true that Puerto Morelos is pretty cute, which is actually quite rare in the area. Since it's sandwiched between the sea and the mangroves, the town can't expand much, and that's a good thing. The alternative on this coast could be Tulum. The town itself doesn't have much charm, but the beachfront hotels are really nice (though quite expensive). I think there's more to do around Tulum than near Puerto Morelos: ruins, Sian Ka'an National Park, and lots of cenotes.

Bacalar and the Laguna de los 7 Colores—I totally agree. I really loved it, even though the arrival of the train since my visit has apparently brought in more tourists. I found the "Cenote Cocalitos Beach Resort" really nice, as long as the number of visitors stays reasonable.

Valladolid—I only stopped there because it's not too far from Chichén Itzá if you want to get there at opening time and avoid the crowds. There are also lots of cenotes in the area, but they're *super* popular!

Holbox—I'm torn, but I’d still recommend going. The sea and beaches are gorgeous, but it's very touristy, and you’ll run into more foreigners than Mexicans. There are plenty of nice restaurants by the sea, but prices are double what you’d find elsewhere on the Yucatán Peninsula. I also didn’t like all the people zipping around in noisy, polluting golf carts when the island is so small—everyone would be better off just walking. It reminded me of the Gili Islands in Indonesia, which I preferred because, despite being touristy too, the vibe is more laid-back and the atmosphere friendlier. In short, Holbox has a lot of potential, but it’s turning into a tourist factory that’s losing its charm entirely.
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Thanks for your reply!

You’re right—Puerto Morelos was chosen because we land in Cancún at 8:30 PM, so it’ll be late after going through formalities, picking up the rental car (and the discussions trying to get them to waive the insurance even though it’s covered by my World Elite card). We’ll also be able to recover from jet lag for two days and three nights. Maybe a snorkeling trip to Cozumel, though I think it’s a bit touristy. Not sure if Cozumel’s El Cielo is worth the trip.

I don’t plan on sleeping in Tulum. I’m thinking of leaving early on 12/22 to arrive in Tulum early and explore the Maya site before the crowds show up, plus some cenotes (still deciding which ones). That said, we won’t have time for the Sian Ka’an reserve since I understand it’s a full-day excursion.

My booking at Bacalar from 12/22 to 12/25 at Amigos Hostelito seems great, but they don’t have availability to shift it by a day.

For Valladolid, the idea was to have a base to explore Chichén Itzá, cenotes, and maybe a day trip to Río Lagartos and Las Coloradas. Even with three nights, that’s only two full days.

Finally, 4 nights and 3 days in Holbox—I hesitated, but I think my daughters will love it (and so will we). Maybe 3 nights would be enough, but oh well...

Planning a trip ties my brain in knots, but I love it because I get to travel in anticipation!

Thanks in advance for any other tips!

Stéphane
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Hi there,

Thanks to all the great tips, I’ve booked the first three stops: Puerto Morelos – Hacienda Morelos – 125 € / night Bacalar – Amigos Hostelito – 137 € / night Valladolid – Casa Xu'unan – 76 € / night

It’s never easy picking a place with a good value for money. Hope we won’t be disappointed!

Holbox looks even trickier from what I’ve seen—lots of mixed reviews and high prices. For now, I’m considering La Diosa Kali at 9,600 MXN for 4 nights without breakfast. Still not sold, so any advice is welcome!

Next step: planning the day-by-day schedule. That’ll take some time—I’ll check out a few blogs.

Have a great day!

Stéphane
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
On Holbox I stayed here: https://www.casachujukholbox.com/ But from what I see, you're looking more for beachfront accommodation, so this might not be what you're after.
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Thanks! Casa Chujuk also looks really good to me Plus, there’s the little pool Anyway, the hotels aren’t far from the beach
ST Stephane513 Regular ·
Hi there,

I’m reaching out to the community because I have some doubts about our trip.

Our current itinerary is: 4 nights in Puerto Morelos to settle in after the journey 3 nights in Bacalar 3 nights in Valladolid 3 nights in Holbox I’ve already booked the hotel nights, but they’re cancelable.

The issue with spending 3 nights in one place is that we only get two full days there. For example, Bacalar involves quite a bit of travel time, and it’s a shame to only spend two days there. The same goes for the trip back up.

I know that with 13 nights total, we have to make choices.

Is going to Holbox a good idea, or can we skip that stop?

For example: 4 nights in Puerto Morelos 3 nights in Valladolid 4 nights in Bacalar 2 nights in Tulum on the way back up

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Stéphane
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
Hello,

I really like your first itinerary. It’d be a shame to skip the stop in Holbox to replace it with Tulum, which isn’t all that different from Puerto Morelos.

2 days/3 nights in Bacalar seems like enough to me. If you want to add a night there, maybe you could drop one in Puerto Morelos—there aren’t a ton of activities (even though I get that you wanted a good break when you first arrive).
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/

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