Les maras et la guerre des gangs en Amérique du Sud

Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?

Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):

29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.

So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂

Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February. I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival. Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina), Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit. Is this doable in 3 months? Which direction should I take for this itinerary? Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc. Which would be the better time to go, April or November? Is an SUV enough? Looking forward to your tips!

Hi, I'm looking for a local agency in Uyuni to do the trip and tours from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Hi there,

Could you recommend any car rental agencies in Calama and Punta Arenas? Best regards,

Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.

My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.

How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?

In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?

Thanks for your help!

Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much

Hi, We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture? Thanks

Hi there, I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca. From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?

Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?

The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!

Hey everyone,

I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.

I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.

Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.

After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.

The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.

I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋

Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.

If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help! Martin

hi,

I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.

So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).

I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.

I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?

I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?

Looking forward to your feedback.

Best regards,

Bonjour à tous, Nous partons 3 semaines en Patagonie en novembre en partant a priori depuis Coyhaique au Chili. Nous ne serons pas motorisés et j'ai beaucoup de mal à obtenir des informations sur les possibilités de transport en quelques endroits de l'itinéraire que nous souhaiterions réaliser :

1) De Perito-Moreno (la ville, près de Los Antiguos), nous aimerions descendre la ruta 40 pour visiter le parc national Perito Moreno et ensuite passer au Chili via le Paso Roballos (à la lattitude de Bajo Caracoles)pour rejoindre la route de Cochrane. Sans voiture, il semble que nous devions passer par des agences privées pour rejoindre le parc national Perito Moreno : avez vous des recommandations ou des suggestions à ce sujet ? Et quelqu'un sait-il s'il est possible de passer (sans loc de voiture) au Chili par le Paso Roballos (depuis Bajo Caracoles), c'est à dire sans devoir descendre jusqu'à El Chalten ni remonter vers Perito Moreno / Los Antiguos etc. ?

2) Le 2ème tronçon qui semble un peu compliqué (mais quand même plus facile a priori) c'est de Caleta Tortel à Villa O'Higgins côté chilien. Doit-on repasser obligatoirement par Cochrane ou bien y a-t-il des possibilités de rejoindre Villa O'Higgins directement depuis Tortel?

3) Enfin, nous souhaiterions rejoindre l'Argentine (El Chalten), à pied, depuis O'Higgins. Auriez vous des recommandations à ce sujet également ? Doit-on passer par une agence ? Durée estimée de l'excursion ?

Vous l'aurez compris, nous souhaitons tout à la fois accéder à des endroits assez peu fréquentés mais nous n'avons pas de voiture pour cela, nous cherchons donc les meilleurs compromis possibles.

Mille mercis d'avance pour toutes vos suggestions ! Thomas

Hi, we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously... I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres. Thanks for your feedback. Raf.

Hi, we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general. For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges. Thanks in advance. Raf.

Hi everyone!

I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile! I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!

1-Flight to Santiago

2-Explore Santiago

3-Explore Santiago

4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña

5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)

6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)

7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna

8-Laguna Miñiques & Miscanti + Salar de Talar + Laguna Tuyajto

9-Geysers El Tatio early in the morning + Cañón de Guatín + return car

10-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni

11-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni

12-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni

13-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni + return to San Pedro for the night

14-Bus to Calama + flight Calama-La Serena + explore La Serena

15-Excursion to Reserva Pingüino + bonus time (sunset at Playa Tongoy or elsewhere...)

16-Rent a car in Pisco Elqui & Vicuña + Observatory

17-Return car in La Serena + flight Santiago & Puerto Montt (4h)

18-Rent a 4x2 car + drive to Temuco (4h)

19-Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello + hike + night in Temuco

20-Parque Nacional Conguillío then drive and night in Pucón

21-Villarrica Volcano

22-Parque Huerquehue

23-Activities on-site

24-Drive to Valdivia + explore and night there

25-Drive to Puerto Varas (via Frutillar, etc.) + activities on-site

26-Salto Las Cascadas + Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Salto del Petrohué) + Canoeing/Rafting?

27-Drive to Parque Alerce Andino (round trip 3h) + hike Sendero Sargazo?

28-Drive to Castro + explore Chiloé and night in Castro

29-Explore Chiloé

30-Explore Chiloé + return to Puerto Varas

31-Drive to Cochamó (1h30) + drive to Hornopirén (2h30)

32-Ferry to Caleta Gonzalo + drive to Chaitén (1h20)

33-Parque Nacional Pumalín, night in Chaitén

34-Drive to Puyuhuapi + Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho?

35-Ventisquero Colgante + drive to Coyhaique

36-Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo

37-Hike Cerro Castillo

38-Drive to Puerto Río Tranquilo

39-Excursion to Glaciar Exploradores

40-Mármol Cathedral + lake activities

41-Drive to Cochrane

42-Parque Patagonia

43-Drive to Chile Chico

44-Ferry Chile Chico-Ibañez + drive to Coyhaique + drop off car

45-Flight to Punta Arenas (1h30) + explore the city

46-Rent a car + drive to Puerto Natales

47-Drive to Torres del Paine in the morning + hike to the base of the towers (return to Puerto Natales for the night)

48-Torres del Paine hike 2 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)

49-Torres del Paine hike 3 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)

50-Drive to Punta Arenas

51-Flight Punta Arenas-Santiago + flight Santiago-Buenos Aires (2h)

52-Explore Buenos Aires

53-Explore Buenos Aires

54-Explore Buenos Aires

55-Flight back to France

Good evening, We’d love to go in November to enjoy some beautiful beaches for about two weeks, preferably around Bahia, as November/December seems like a great time. We’ve already traveled to Brazil several times and know the south of Rio as well as the region between São Luís and Fortaleza, and Chapada Diamantina... What advice would you give us: the south with Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo, Boipeba, Barra Grande—or all four? Or maybe the north? Thanks in advance for your help

Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!

First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:

Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to

2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca

Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.

4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.

5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08

Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!

Seb

Hi, During an upcoming trip to Peru, we’ll have one day to explore around Arequipa (excluding Colca Canyon) with a car and driver. We’ve got a few options: - Toro Muerto petroglyphs and dinosaur footprints at Querulpa - Ruta del Sillar and Quebrada de Culebrillas

What do you think? Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance! Larri

We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort. Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site. Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life. Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks

Hi there! I’m putting together my itinerary for Brazil, looking for beautiful natural spots with wildlife, flora, and great hikes... I’ve come across the Cananeia / Super Agui / Ilha do Mel region and the PETAR / Intervales / Alto Ribeira area. Has anyone here been to these places? If so, do you have any recommendations for accommodations and activities? Thanks in advance! Best, Olivier 🌍

Hello,

I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?

After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?

Hi there, We’re spending 3 weeks in Brazil, arriving in São Paulo—a couple plus a teen—and we’ll have a rental car. We especially love nature: hiking, wildlife watching, birds, etc. We’re planning to wrap up with a week around Paraty and Ilha Grande. We’re not really into visiting big cities like São Paulo or Rio unless you think we’d be missing out big time.

So we’ve got 2 weeks to explore the south/southwest region of São Paulo. What do you recommend? National parks? Off-the-beaten-path nature spots? Iguazu Falls?

Thanks in advance for all your tips!

Hi there, Do you have any recommendations for comfortable accommodation in Leyva and Barichara? We're also looking for a guide to explore the areas around these two towns (parks, waterfalls, etc.). Thanks for your tips!

I visited Colombia in January 2016 and I’m heading back from August 6th to 17th with the same airline to see how things have changed. Starting August 18th, I’ll continue with independent exploration. I prefer slow travel and enjoying places at my own pace. Any tips—especially for getting around or must-see spots—are welcome!

Thu Aug 06. Fly Montreal to Bogotá 20:55-04:05+1 Air Canada Fri Aug 07. Bogotá Sat Aug 08. Bogotá Sun Aug 09. Bogotá Mon Aug 10. Fly Bogotá to Medellín Tue Aug 11. Medellín - Explore Guatapé Wed Aug 12. Comuna 8 & Hill of Values - PM Fly to Pereira Thu Aug 13. Montenegro Fri Aug 14. Salento - Cocora Valley Sat Aug 15. Fly to Cartagena Sun Aug 16. Explore Cartagena Mon Aug 17. Explore Cartagena Tue Aug 18. Fly Cartagena to Cali 12:20-14:55 Latam Wed Aug 19. Cali Thu Aug 20. Cali Fri Aug 21. Cali Sat Aug 22. Bus Cali to Popayán 09:00-13:00 Sun Aug 23. Popayán Mon Aug 24. Popayán Tue Aug 25. Popayán - Day trip to Silvia (Market Day) Wed Aug 26. Overland Popayán to Tierradentro by public transportation 4h, 100km Thu Aug 27. Tierradentro Fri Aug 28. Tierradentro Sat Aug 29. Overland Tierradentro to Garzón via La Plata Sun Aug 30. Bus Garzón to San Agustín 10:30-13:00 Mon Aug 31. San Agustín Tue Sep 01. San Agustín Wed Sep 02. San Agustín Thu Sep 03. San Agustín Fri Sep 04. Overland San Agustín to Tatacoa Desert via Neiva Sat Sep 05. Tatacoa Desert Sun Sep 06. Fly to Bogotá via Neiva 16:00-17:00 Latam Mon Sep 07. Bogotá Tue Sep 08. Fly Bogotá to Montreal 09:00-16:30 Air Canada

Hi there, Three years ago during a trip to Java (no, I didn’t post in the wrong forum!), I came across the address of former miners who had switched to “tourism” and organized nighttime ascents of the Kawah Ijen volcano and descents into the crater. So I was thinking—maybe there are miners on the salt flats too, either former or still active, who do the same thing. If you’ve had an experience like this, I’d love any tips you can share. Thanks in advance.

Hi there, since there isn’t much recent info on how to get to MP, I’d love to know if there have been any improvements to the "route" to Hydroelectrica. Is it feasible to drive there in February? And is it still possible to walk all the way to Aguas Calientes? I think I read somewhere that it’s no longer allowed?? Do you think I can buy Machu Picchu entrance tickets last-minute at that time of year, given the weather?

Hello tout le monde!

Nous partons entre amis au Brésil en Mars 2019 et nous souhaitons assister au défilé du carnaval. J'aurais bien besoin de votre aide car j'ai du mal à trouver des avis sur les sites de vente en ligne pour les tickets du carnaval. J'ai repéré rio-carnival, est-ce une agence fiable. Avez-vous d'autres agences à conseiller ou expériences à partager? Votre aide est la bienvenue.

Merci 🙂 Marine

Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition) Hi fellow travelers,

Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!

As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.

In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:

Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.

Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.

Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ

And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!

Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé

I’ve seen some info about this route, but not nearly enough, so I thought I’d share what I did for anyone interested.

Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.

Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque. To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.

Oiapoque - Macapá: From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá. If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.

Macapá - Santana You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday... After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.

Santana - Belém I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.

Article on the topic (in French): https://la1ere.franceinfo.fr/guyane/macapa-belem-au-fil-de-l-amazone-1302076.html

Hope this helps someone avoid some of the hassle I went through!