Mon voyage Maroc arrive à grand pas, et pour ne pas le cacher, je suis attiré par le fait de manger sur un des stands de la place Djemma El Fna pour gouter à de la nourriture typique marocaine avec des marocains.
Par contre, peu de guide de voyageur, conseille ces stands, et de maniere générale, j'ai lu pas mal de témoignage de voyageurs qui disent "ne pas avoir osé"... Faut il réelement faire preuve de prudence ? Ou y a t'il des plats à privilégier plus que d'autres ?
un conseil a donner ne pas commander de tajine puisqu'ils n'y a pas de vrai tajines a la place.
je me suis disputé avec tout un stand pour ca et j'ai fini par ne rien payer (facture de 300dh) puisqu'ils voulait vraiment se foutre de ma gueule.
tajine de boulette = 1 assietes avec 4 boulettes. c'est leurs tajines touristiques.
sinon si c'est pour l'ambiance tu peux toujours prendre des merguez ou la soupe "harira".
pour les tajines je te recommande le café france qui donne sur le coté de la place que je trouve vraiment génial, un peu plus cher mais franchement on le regrette pas. (pour 7 euros ca reste raisonnable)
je te raconte cela puisque j'y etais y'a meme pas 2 mois.
moi aussi mon voyage au Maroc approche (départ en voiture le 03 juillet). en plus du voyage en voiture, j'ai un peu peur de la nourriture, mon estomac n'est pas habituée.
Tu a des conseils à me donner ?
Tous les stands ne se valent pas pour la nourriture, mais pour les prix, c'est pareil ! Ils sont affichés et tout ce qu'on vous met vous la table d'office ( pain, sauces, olives ) est en plus, donc ne pas les accepter si vous n'en voulez pas ! A la fin, ne jamais demander une addition globale, mais une addition détaillée
Je te recommande le 65 spécialiste des brochettes ; je connais Hassan et c'est ma cantine quand je vais à Marrakech ; la nourriture est du jour ( à ce propos, fuir les stands avec montagnes de nourriture ; car ils ont beaucoup de restes qu'ils resservent le lendemain ) Privilégiez les "petits stands "
Sinon, pour le poisson, le 14 a bonne réputation (on y fait souvent la queue)
Manger sur la Place est une expérience inoubliable, qu'il convient de faire au moins une fois à Marrakech!!
Pour les stands, "j'ai osé" y manger à quelques reprises... mais mon estomac a finalement préféré tous les petits restos autour de la place jemma el fna. Ils sont très faciles à trouver et très peu dispendieux. J'ai mangé des tajines délicieuses et je n'ai jamais été malades dans ces petits restos. Dans les stands, j'allais là où il y avait le plus de gens... C'est un peu plus risqué, mais le jeu en vaut la chandelle! Quelques maux de ventre, mais sans plus. Évite toutefois les pitas au poulet/gyros des petits restos de l'entrée principale. Nous avons tous été malade après en avoir mangé un. La viande tourne des jours et des jours sous le soleil et si tu as un estomac fragile, mieux vaut l'éviter!
Sinon, bienvenu au royaume des tajines, du pain marocain et des olives!
À quoi ça sert de voyager si tu t'amènes avec toi? Il ne s'agit pas de découvrir de nouveaux paysages, il s'agit de changer d'âme!
J'avais mangé l'année passée avec mon copain du couscous qui a été mis dans un tajine et c'était particulièrement délicieux, par rapport au couscours qu'on met dans les assietes... C'était dans un resto à Gueliz, et là bas on sert plein de plats typiquement marocains! 😉
bonjour
je comprends ton aprehension mais il faut oser gouter ce qui te tente
pour ma part j' ai toujours mangé sur la place et je n'ai jamais été malade
Meme la tete de mouton etait délicieuse.....
le mieux c'est de reperer un stand ou les marocains font la queue c'est bon signe et avec un peu de patience tu pourras gouter à des mets delicieux
Catherine
on peut oser ! c'est ludique, les enfants adorent !
perso, j'ai très peu de doutes sur la rotation des stocks et sur la fraicheur.
Ce qui me gène, c'est surtout la taille des portions qui diminue, et les prix qui augmentent!
Un plat, la salade qu'on t'impose, les 3 olives qu'on te met sous le nez, un bout de pain, et on se retrouve à 60 70 dh très vite,
Alors, café Toubkal, rotisserie Oscar progrès, ou Bejguéni. au moins on a plus faim quand on se lève de table, pour 40 à 50 dh boisson comprise.
Il y a seulement qqs années encore, on voyait 1 touriste pour 10 "orientaux" attablés, les prix étaient attractifs et la qualité au rdv.
Aujourd'hui, à certaines tables, c'est 1 Marrakchi pour 10 occidentaux. Les prix ont explosé, le service est nettement moins chaleureux, et la qualité à peu près stable.
Le lieu reste malgré tout un vrai régal pour les yeux (à défaut de l'être parfois pour le ventre...aliments pré-cuits parfois insipides).
En X expériences, je n'ai jamais été malade mais bien qu'adorant le poisson, je n'en ai jamais consommé.
Autrefois je mangeais au stand d'un ami, professeur d'histoire géographie, dont je tairai le prénom car ce doublon d'activités lui est officiellement interdit. C'était une adresse excellente, malheureusement, lors de mon dernier passage en mai, j'ai appris qu'il avait été frappé d'une fermeture administrative temporaire pour avoir "fermé les yeux" sur une consommation de vin à son stand par des touristes.
En résumé, c'est moins typique qu'auparavant mais c'est un moment qui reste sympathique. Conseil, si tu aimes les épices, testes les escargots.
Franchement, oui c'est un peu cher mais l'ambiance est au rdv. Promène-toi, et prends un stand qui te fais envie. Ensuite fais-toi plaisir, goûte à plusieurs sortes de mets, c'est une ambiance unique. Les brochettes sont souvent succulantes !
Bonjour Koryo78,
Je suis rentré samedi soir de Marrakech et avons plusieurs fois mangé sur la Place Jema El Fnaa.
Je te conseille le stand de soupe "Harira" tout au bout de la rangée n°1 (stand n°1 sur ta droite et tu longes les stands jusqu'à celui de soupes, c'est le dernier). La soupe est vraiment excellente et à un prix modique 3DRH ~0.25 €, la tradition veut que l'on mange les dattes sèches, la soupe et ensuite les chebakia (pâtisserie marocaine).
Sinon je te conseille, le n°30 (si je me souviens bien!!!) avec les petites saucisses de mouton (pas celles qui ressemblent au merguez rouges, ces saucisses là sont tachetées rouge/blanc) ~1.20 DRH pièce. C'est le seul stand qui en fait... UN CONSEIL: cherche le stand où il y a le plus de locaux attablés, évite celui où il n'y a que les touristes.
CECI EST VALABLE POUR TOUT ACHAT (herboristes, souks, etc.) Perso nous avons privilégié les stands où les marrakchis achètent et n'avons jamais été déçus bien au contraire.
Passe un bon séjour...Hamdullah!
manger sur la place est sympa (une fois installé et passé tous les rabatteurs )...
pour manger il y a le stand de poisson déjà cité qui est tres bon, il y a le stand haricot /lentilles, le stand de soupe herera ou soupe à l'anis ...pour le reste c"est soit de l'attrape gogo soit tres typique (tête de mouton, escargots ect)
le toubcal quant à lui augmente ses prix et diminue les portions et leur couscous est un peu limite...mieux pour les petits dej.
un conseil : la nouriture cuite et bien cuite, des boissons en bouteille fermées et tout va bien.
j'ai vécu un peu en afrique noire et même mangé des brochettes en brousse, au bord de la piste avec la certitude que le boeuf faisait "wouah wouah" avant de cuire ... le tout est de préserver certains réflexes d'hygiène comme le lavage des mains, le pelage des fruits et ne pas consommer de crudités si elles ne sont pas lavées au permenganate de potasse (oui, ça existe encore, je l'utilisais au gabon !).
autrement, si tu as les mains propres, utilises plutôt tes doigts que les couverts car généralement, si tu voyais l'eau de vaiselle ... c'est plus du rinçage que du lavage.
rester prudent mais pas peureux, c'est tout.
ah, oui, j'oubliais : ultra levure dans le sac, à portée de main ... noooon, je plaisante !
bon trip et surtout, savoure chaque instant !
J'y ai mangé samedi passé....délicieux 😎
pas de souci ! mais il faut préférer des mets bien cuits ou grillés et de toutes façon les sodas ou eau sont en petites bouteilles fermées.... prix correct, service ultra rapide et ambiance garantie.
Salutations à la place Djamel f'na de ma part.
Sophie
salut
mon avis a moi, c'est que dans la place il y a pas mal de plat je choisi toujours la viande bien cuite, brochète ou tanjiya sou"sise ... c'est le plus grand resteaux au monde je pense;)
merci pour tous les conseils, j'y serai demain en débarquant de l'avion avant de filer sur safi mardi et comme je n'y suis pas allé depuis 2000.. il y a du avoir du changement
habitant à Casa délaissée par les touristes, je ne suis pas fan de marrakech ... mais pour y etre passé une paire de fois ... manger sur la place c'est sympa ... un peu cher par rapport au niveau de vie mais ça c'est une réalité de marrakech ...
un conseil de stand ? Chez Rachida, le n° 42 ... bon et agréable. Attention tout de même, pratique courante d'amener des petits bols d'olive et de sauce piquante ... pas cadeau bien sur ... tout ce qui arrive sans demander l'avis est aussi payant, si tu n'en veux pas il faut le refuser ... pas de souci
Manger sur la mythique place Jemaa el fna est un moment inoubliable : la foule, les couleurs les odeurs etc. toutes une foule de visiteurs internationaux, nationaux et marrakchis" habitant de Marrakech". J'ai lu qu'il faut aller sur les stands où il ya plus de marocains, ceux là ils sont toujours sur les stands de viande : saucisses, mergaz, brochettes et aussi sur les stands de la soupe "harira". Ce qui est viande parce que les saucisses ne se préparent pas à la maison comme les autres plats, c'est souvent des sandwichs que les époux marocains offrent à leurs épouses pour les chuchoter ;-)
Sur les autres stands de légumes, salades tagines etc.. C'est souvent des visiteurs d'autres villes et d'autres pays. Question de prix je pense qu'il faut compter 50 dh "5 euros" en moyenne pour des plats de salades légumes.
Délaisse les grandes routes, prends les sentiers. Pythagore
Je terminerai mon séjour marocain par une nuit sur Casablanca. Pour mon dernier repas en terre africaine, je recherche un restaurant plutôt gastronomique…
Pour notre croisière, nous avons choisi le premier service pour le repas du soir avec MSC. Je voudrais savoir lors de l'escale à Casablanca (qui dure de 9 à 22…
Je sollicite l'avis des membres de ce forum afin de trouver un restaurant sympa, calme et propice à un diner en amoureux à Rabat. Est ce que quelqu'un aurait…
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!
