Mauritanie: disparition du vol Paris-Atar
by Ouldyoussouf
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
je rentre d'un voyage en asie pendant un certain temps et "glups", le site de point-afrique ne propose plus de vol sur Atar, bien sur j'étais au courant de l'attaque du mois de septembre qui a été meurtrière dans la zone de Zouérate, mais qu'en est-il de cette disparition du vol Paris-Atar auquel je m'attendais quand même un peu mais sans commentaire sur le site de point-afrique. C'est curieux quand même le "no comment" ou bien j'ai manqué une case et merci de me "rafraîchir" sur l'info.
Je reste catastrophé par cette découverte qui ne va pas arranger l'économie locale à Atar, Chinguetti et Ouadane. commentaires, infos bienvenus sur les circonstances et raisons qui ont conduit à l'annulation du vol de Atar.
luc
“... L’aventure est l’invention de la liberté et ne disparaît qu’avec elle. Ce qui importe sur la route de l’aventure, ce n’est pas ce que l’homme fait mais comment il le fait. L’aventure est dans son regard sur le monde...”
David le Breton
En Afrique tout est possible, mais rien n'est certain ....!!
http://papyetmamyenvoyage.kazeo.com/
Bonjour voila un rapport concernant la suppresion de leurs vols sur cette destination🙁
Point-Afrique suspend son activité en Mauritanie 30 septembre 2008 Terrible nouvelle, choix difficile... mais il arrive un moment où, malgré sa détermination, il faut savoir s’arrêter. Les intérêts de nos voyageurs priment toute autre considération; comme nous l’avons fait en 2007 pour le nord Niger, nous suspendons sine die notre activité en Mauritanie. Les raisons de ce choix sont multiples. En premier lieu, notre connaissance aiguë du degré de sécurité des destinations desservies, nous pousse aujourd’hui à déconseiller la Mauritanie à nos voyageurs. Le coup d’état militaire du 6 août dernier, condamné par toutes les instances internationales (France, Europe, Union Africaine, Etats-Unis...), et l’incertitude, pour ne pas dire la confusion politique, qui en a résulté, est un premier signal alarmant. De plus, il n’est pas possible d’ignorer le sanglant attentat de Tourine, intervenu le 14 septembre. Contrairement aux événements de décembre 2007, qui ressortissent plutôt du banditisme classique, cet acte barbare - douze militaires mauritaniens tués à l’arme blanche - semble bel et bien l’oeuvre de groupes islamiques, qu’il s’agisse ou non d’Al Qaïda. Impossible également d’ignorer que les faits ont eu lieu non loin de Zouerate, aux portes de l’Adrar mauritanien, notre destination privilégiée. Nous ne plaisantons pas avec la sécurité des voyageurs: à eux seuls, ces deux faits motiveraient suffisamment notre décision. Mais dans un autre ordre d’idée, nous sommes également confrontés à une politique de «relance» touristique émanant d’opérateurs mauritaniens, qui apparaît des plus singulières. Outre son agressivité mal déguisée à notre encontre (avec des accusations aussi farfelues que celle de «profiter» d’une situation de «monopole» pour pratiquer des tarifs « excessifs»), cette politique conduit une société mauritanienne à affréter un vol Paris - Atar - Paris avec le soutien financier non dissimulé de l’état mauritanien. Ce vol est une aberration économique totale. Et l’on peut se demander (en accord sur ce point avec Voyageurs du Monde) si l’état mauritanien n’a pas à faire face à des problèmes autrement plus urgents que de gaspiller une partie de ses - maigres - ressources dans ce genre d’opération, alors même que tous les bailleurs de fonds internationaux ont coupé les crédits au pays, en réaction au coup d’état de cet été... Au vu de ces éléments, nous suspendons donc toute activité en Mauritanie. Avec un sentiment de tristesse certain, en pensant d’abord à tous nos amis mauritaniens, aux guides que nous avons formés, à la population de l’Adrar qui, grâce au tourisme, a vu sa pauvreté diminuer de moitié entre 1996 (date à laquelle, faut-il le rappeler, nous avons ouvert cette destination et créé de toutes pièces un marché auquel personne en croyait...) et 2001. Aux anonymes, chameliers, chauffeurs, cuisiniers, que des jours difficiles attendent. A tous ceux aussi qui, depuis la France ou l’Europe, oeuvraient en Mauritanie dans les domaines de la santé ou de l’éducation, faisant passer l’élémentaire solidaire humaine avant toute autre considération. C’est pour eux tous que nous avions maintenu, l’hiver dernier, notre liaison sur Atar, au prix d’un déficit financier de 372 000 €. Nous espérons, du fond du coeur, que la situation se clarifie le plus rapidement possible dans ce pays qui mérite mieux que la tourmente actuelle dans laquelle certains irresponsables le plongent. *
Point-Afrique suspend son activité en Mauritanie 30 septembre 2008 Terrible nouvelle, choix difficile... mais il arrive un moment où, malgré sa détermination, il faut savoir s’arrêter. Les intérêts de nos voyageurs priment toute autre considération; comme nous l’avons fait en 2007 pour le nord Niger, nous suspendons sine die notre activité en Mauritanie. Les raisons de ce choix sont multiples. En premier lieu, notre connaissance aiguë du degré de sécurité des destinations desservies, nous pousse aujourd’hui à déconseiller la Mauritanie à nos voyageurs. Le coup d’état militaire du 6 août dernier, condamné par toutes les instances internationales (France, Europe, Union Africaine, Etats-Unis...), et l’incertitude, pour ne pas dire la confusion politique, qui en a résulté, est un premier signal alarmant. De plus, il n’est pas possible d’ignorer le sanglant attentat de Tourine, intervenu le 14 septembre. Contrairement aux événements de décembre 2007, qui ressortissent plutôt du banditisme classique, cet acte barbare - douze militaires mauritaniens tués à l’arme blanche - semble bel et bien l’oeuvre de groupes islamiques, qu’il s’agisse ou non d’Al Qaïda. Impossible également d’ignorer que les faits ont eu lieu non loin de Zouerate, aux portes de l’Adrar mauritanien, notre destination privilégiée. Nous ne plaisantons pas avec la sécurité des voyageurs: à eux seuls, ces deux faits motiveraient suffisamment notre décision. Mais dans un autre ordre d’idée, nous sommes également confrontés à une politique de «relance» touristique émanant d’opérateurs mauritaniens, qui apparaît des plus singulières. Outre son agressivité mal déguisée à notre encontre (avec des accusations aussi farfelues que celle de «profiter» d’une situation de «monopole» pour pratiquer des tarifs « excessifs»), cette politique conduit une société mauritanienne à affréter un vol Paris - Atar - Paris avec le soutien financier non dissimulé de l’état mauritanien. Ce vol est une aberration économique totale. Et l’on peut se demander (en accord sur ce point avec Voyageurs du Monde) si l’état mauritanien n’a pas à faire face à des problèmes autrement plus urgents que de gaspiller une partie de ses - maigres - ressources dans ce genre d’opération, alors même que tous les bailleurs de fonds internationaux ont coupé les crédits au pays, en réaction au coup d’état de cet été... Au vu de ces éléments, nous suspendons donc toute activité en Mauritanie. Avec un sentiment de tristesse certain, en pensant d’abord à tous nos amis mauritaniens, aux guides que nous avons formés, à la population de l’Adrar qui, grâce au tourisme, a vu sa pauvreté diminuer de moitié entre 1996 (date à laquelle, faut-il le rappeler, nous avons ouvert cette destination et créé de toutes pièces un marché auquel personne en croyait...) et 2001. Aux anonymes, chameliers, chauffeurs, cuisiniers, que des jours difficiles attendent. A tous ceux aussi qui, depuis la France ou l’Europe, oeuvraient en Mauritanie dans les domaines de la santé ou de l’éducation, faisant passer l’élémentaire solidaire humaine avant toute autre considération. C’est pour eux tous que nous avions maintenu, l’hiver dernier, notre liaison sur Atar, au prix d’un déficit financier de 372 000 €. Nous espérons, du fond du coeur, que la situation se clarifie le plus rapidement possible dans ce pays qui mérite mieux que la tourmente actuelle dans laquelle certains irresponsables le plongent. *
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Pour compléter la discussion, ci dessous la réponse de la Mauritanie (consultable sur =3&tx_ttnews=23042&tx_ttnews=36&cHash=59d41898c2"]http://www.cridem.org/index.php?id=82&no_cache=1&tx_ttnews=3&tx_ttnews=23042&tx_ttnews=36&cHash=59d41898c2 dans la section artisanat tourisme de ce site vous trouverez d'autres articles, pas toujours de la bonne littérature mais je vous laisse faire le tri).
Nous sommes maintenant à moins d'une semaine du premier vol Somasert et il semble que le remplissage soit satisfaisant, donc merci à vous tous qui continuez à faire confiance à la Mauritanie. Pour ceux qui ne se sont pas encore décidés à venir, je pense que vous aurez l'occasion de savourer de magnifiques images lors du passage de l'Africa Race (rallye organisé par Hubert Auriol, voir le site www.africarace.com ) début Janvier, qui aura son jour de repos à Chinguetti.
Je suis Française, vis depuis 11 ans en Mauritanie et espère encore y passer de nombreuses années !!! A bientôt, MB41
Saison touristique 2008-2009: Parer à la mauvaise publicité ourdie par Point-Afrique.
Confronté à l'impact de la dernière action terroriste contre nos soldats à Tourine, notre pays doit aussi parer à une autre action terrorisante: l'attaque du Tour opérateur, Point Afrique. Mécontent de voir son monopole voler en éclats, il s'attaque à la Mauritanie et s'immisce dans son débat politique national. Pour ce faire, Point Afrique compte sur ses médisances et ses capacités de nuisance à toute épreuve.
Les autorités en charge de la gestion du secteur du tourisme sont désemparées face à tant de désinvolture et d'ingratitude de la part du tour opérateur français, "Point-Afrique" qui dans sa retraite, faute de pouvoir soutenir la concurrence loyale avec ses adversaires, s'en donne à coeur joie pour dénigrer la destination de notre pays.
Mais déjà la riposte s'organise et "Point- Afrique" ne s'en trouvera que plus mal. Au moins 28 vols directs Paris Atar-Paris, à raison d’un vol tous les vendredis sont prévus.
Mais les petits tours opérateurs français qui faisaient les beaux jours de "Point Afrique" se désolidarisent de sa réaction jugée par certains "d'excessive et déplacée". Alors sans Point Afrique, tout le monde s'arrange pour apporter son lot de passagers.
Plus que sur "Point Afrique" la réussite de la saison touristique 2008-09 est surtout perçue comme une victoire sur les défaitistes et les sur les oiseaux de mauvaise augure avec possibilité d’augmenter les fréquences suite à l’annulation des vols Point Afrique en Mauritanie.
Ces vols affrétés par la Société Mauritanienne de Tourisme et de Services SOMASERT, sont assurés par Transavia du Groupe Air France KLM, et auront lieu du 24 Octobre 2008 au 1er Mai 2009. La nouveauté cette année sera très probablement la diversification des dessertes qui commenceront par Néma en raison de son aéroport international avant de s'exporter vers d'autres régions dont le potentiel touristique est jusqu'ici resté vierge.
Selon un courriel officiel de la directrice du tourisme dans notre pays, "sans nier la dramatique réalité de l’attentat exceptionnel qu’a connu notre pays ces derniers temps à l’extrême Nord de sa frontière, et contre lequel le peuple mauritanien s’est massivement levé, la Mauritanie veut affirmer les valeurs d’hospitalité et de paix qui ont toujours été ses caractéristiques fondamentales.
Dans une époque troublée, où aucun pays n’est totalement à l’abri, la Mauritanie est et reste la « Terre des hommes », de l’écoute et du respect de l’Autre. Bonne réponse aux pêcheurs en eau trouble.
"Point Afrique" a entamé depuis le 30 septembre 2008 une campagne cynique d'intoxication contre notre pays. Son objectif est de faire d'une pierre deux coups: porter ombrage au tourisme en Mauritanie et continuer à s'accaparer ses touristes en leur proposant Gardaia en Algérie.
Comme si l'Algérie était moins frappée que la Mauritanie par un terrorisme aveugle. La réalité économique est que ce tour opérateur introduit en 1996 en Mauritanie après l'échec de "Point Mulhouse" avait fait main basse, à moindre frais, sur le tourisme en Mauritanie. Il est aujourd'hui outré par les velléités d'indépendance du secteur de sa coupe. L'arrivée d'un avion des lignes Klm contre son charter à deux sous a contrarié ses projections.
Alors il s'en prend à tout le monde. Il pousse même son "ingéniosité" à s'immiscer dans la vie politique pour à défaut de faire peur aux touristes à travers la menace de terrorisme, tirer profit de ce qu'il appelle "une confusion qui règne".
La déclaration de Point Afrique avise les touristes que l’attaque contre nos soldats à Tourine n’est que le début de l’apocalypse en Mauritanie. Que ce qui suit sera plus cruel. Que les fantômes rôdent dans le désert. Et pour faire croire à la permanence du danger, il charcute la géographie, histoire de rapprocher le lieu du drame (plusieurs centaines de kilomètres) des sites touristiques de l’Adrar.
Alors, Point Afrique qui avait déjà chanté le maintien en 2007 de ses vols sur la Mauritanie pour des raisons de confiance au pays, retourne aujourd’hui son veston et indique qu’il se préoccupe de la sécurité de ses clients ? Qu’est-ce qui a changé entre temps ? Une seule chose, la fin d’un monopole de transport des touristes. La tirelire est saccagée voilà tout.
La «suspension » -qui est véritablement un recul économique- est expliquée sans ambages par des « raisons…multiples. En premier lieu, notre connaissance aiguë du degré de sécurité des destinations desservies, nous pousse aujourd’hui à déconseiller la Mauritanie à nos voyageurs.
Le coup d’Etat militaire du 6 août dernier, condamné par toutes les instances internationales (France, Europe, Union Africaine, Etats-Unis...), et l’incertitude, pour ne pas dire la confusion politique, qui en a résulté, est un premier signal alarmant.
De plus, il n’est pas possible d’ignorer le sanglant attentat de Tourine, intervenu le 14 septembre. Contrairement aux événements de décembre 2007, qui ressortissent plutôt du banditisme classique, cet acte barbare - douze militaires mauritaniens tués à l’arme blanche - semble bel et bien l’oeuvre de groupes islamiques, qu’il s’agisse ou non d’Al Qaïda.
Impossible également d’ignorer que les faits ont eu lieu non loin de Zouerate, aux portes de l’Adrar mauritanien, notre destination privilégiée. Nous ne plaisantons pas avec la sécurité des voyageurs: à eux seuls, ces deux faits motiveraient suffisamment notre décision ». Fin de citation.
La décision de nuire (dont les véritables mobiles sont purement mercantilistes) est largement exprimée sur ces quelques lignes. L’attentat d’Aleg dont les responsables sont aujourd’hui en prison est ramené par méconnaissance profonde à un acte de «banditisme classique».
Toute la France le sait. Mais autant cette indécence d’un TO dont les affaires ont fleuri dans notre désert, est de vouloir faire mauvaise concurrence à ses adversaires sur les corps de nos martyrs est intolérable, autant son immixtion dans la politique intérieure de notre pays est inadmissible.
Qui est Maurice Freund ou Point Afrique pour se prononcer sur la légitimité ou la légalité d’un régime en Mauritanie? Pourquoi s’inviter à un débat qui le dépasse et surtout ne le concerne pas ? De quel droit se donne-t-il un tel droit ? Pour 300 milles prétendument déboursée en Mauritanie après les attentats d’Aleg?
Décidément, comme l'ont suggéraient beaucoup "Point Afrique" aurait mieux fait de se casser sur la pointe des pieds car il sait qu'il traîne beaucoup de casseroles en Mauritanie.
Alors a beau mentir qui vient de loin!
JD
Nous sommes maintenant à moins d'une semaine du premier vol Somasert et il semble que le remplissage soit satisfaisant, donc merci à vous tous qui continuez à faire confiance à la Mauritanie. Pour ceux qui ne se sont pas encore décidés à venir, je pense que vous aurez l'occasion de savourer de magnifiques images lors du passage de l'Africa Race (rallye organisé par Hubert Auriol, voir le site www.africarace.com ) début Janvier, qui aura son jour de repos à Chinguetti.
Je suis Française, vis depuis 11 ans en Mauritanie et espère encore y passer de nombreuses années !!! A bientôt, MB41
Saison touristique 2008-2009: Parer à la mauvaise publicité ourdie par Point-Afrique.
Confronté à l'impact de la dernière action terroriste contre nos soldats à Tourine, notre pays doit aussi parer à une autre action terrorisante: l'attaque du Tour opérateur, Point Afrique. Mécontent de voir son monopole voler en éclats, il s'attaque à la Mauritanie et s'immisce dans son débat politique national. Pour ce faire, Point Afrique compte sur ses médisances et ses capacités de nuisance à toute épreuve.
Les autorités en charge de la gestion du secteur du tourisme sont désemparées face à tant de désinvolture et d'ingratitude de la part du tour opérateur français, "Point-Afrique" qui dans sa retraite, faute de pouvoir soutenir la concurrence loyale avec ses adversaires, s'en donne à coeur joie pour dénigrer la destination de notre pays.
Mais déjà la riposte s'organise et "Point- Afrique" ne s'en trouvera que plus mal. Au moins 28 vols directs Paris Atar-Paris, à raison d’un vol tous les vendredis sont prévus.
Mais les petits tours opérateurs français qui faisaient les beaux jours de "Point Afrique" se désolidarisent de sa réaction jugée par certains "d'excessive et déplacée". Alors sans Point Afrique, tout le monde s'arrange pour apporter son lot de passagers.
Plus que sur "Point Afrique" la réussite de la saison touristique 2008-09 est surtout perçue comme une victoire sur les défaitistes et les sur les oiseaux de mauvaise augure avec possibilité d’augmenter les fréquences suite à l’annulation des vols Point Afrique en Mauritanie.
Ces vols affrétés par la Société Mauritanienne de Tourisme et de Services SOMASERT, sont assurés par Transavia du Groupe Air France KLM, et auront lieu du 24 Octobre 2008 au 1er Mai 2009. La nouveauté cette année sera très probablement la diversification des dessertes qui commenceront par Néma en raison de son aéroport international avant de s'exporter vers d'autres régions dont le potentiel touristique est jusqu'ici resté vierge.
Selon un courriel officiel de la directrice du tourisme dans notre pays, "sans nier la dramatique réalité de l’attentat exceptionnel qu’a connu notre pays ces derniers temps à l’extrême Nord de sa frontière, et contre lequel le peuple mauritanien s’est massivement levé, la Mauritanie veut affirmer les valeurs d’hospitalité et de paix qui ont toujours été ses caractéristiques fondamentales.
Dans une époque troublée, où aucun pays n’est totalement à l’abri, la Mauritanie est et reste la « Terre des hommes », de l’écoute et du respect de l’Autre. Bonne réponse aux pêcheurs en eau trouble.
"Point Afrique" a entamé depuis le 30 septembre 2008 une campagne cynique d'intoxication contre notre pays. Son objectif est de faire d'une pierre deux coups: porter ombrage au tourisme en Mauritanie et continuer à s'accaparer ses touristes en leur proposant Gardaia en Algérie.
Comme si l'Algérie était moins frappée que la Mauritanie par un terrorisme aveugle. La réalité économique est que ce tour opérateur introduit en 1996 en Mauritanie après l'échec de "Point Mulhouse" avait fait main basse, à moindre frais, sur le tourisme en Mauritanie. Il est aujourd'hui outré par les velléités d'indépendance du secteur de sa coupe. L'arrivée d'un avion des lignes Klm contre son charter à deux sous a contrarié ses projections.
Alors il s'en prend à tout le monde. Il pousse même son "ingéniosité" à s'immiscer dans la vie politique pour à défaut de faire peur aux touristes à travers la menace de terrorisme, tirer profit de ce qu'il appelle "une confusion qui règne".
La déclaration de Point Afrique avise les touristes que l’attaque contre nos soldats à Tourine n’est que le début de l’apocalypse en Mauritanie. Que ce qui suit sera plus cruel. Que les fantômes rôdent dans le désert. Et pour faire croire à la permanence du danger, il charcute la géographie, histoire de rapprocher le lieu du drame (plusieurs centaines de kilomètres) des sites touristiques de l’Adrar.
Alors, Point Afrique qui avait déjà chanté le maintien en 2007 de ses vols sur la Mauritanie pour des raisons de confiance au pays, retourne aujourd’hui son veston et indique qu’il se préoccupe de la sécurité de ses clients ? Qu’est-ce qui a changé entre temps ? Une seule chose, la fin d’un monopole de transport des touristes. La tirelire est saccagée voilà tout.
La «suspension » -qui est véritablement un recul économique- est expliquée sans ambages par des « raisons…multiples. En premier lieu, notre connaissance aiguë du degré de sécurité des destinations desservies, nous pousse aujourd’hui à déconseiller la Mauritanie à nos voyageurs.
Le coup d’Etat militaire du 6 août dernier, condamné par toutes les instances internationales (France, Europe, Union Africaine, Etats-Unis...), et l’incertitude, pour ne pas dire la confusion politique, qui en a résulté, est un premier signal alarmant.
De plus, il n’est pas possible d’ignorer le sanglant attentat de Tourine, intervenu le 14 septembre. Contrairement aux événements de décembre 2007, qui ressortissent plutôt du banditisme classique, cet acte barbare - douze militaires mauritaniens tués à l’arme blanche - semble bel et bien l’oeuvre de groupes islamiques, qu’il s’agisse ou non d’Al Qaïda.
Impossible également d’ignorer que les faits ont eu lieu non loin de Zouerate, aux portes de l’Adrar mauritanien, notre destination privilégiée. Nous ne plaisantons pas avec la sécurité des voyageurs: à eux seuls, ces deux faits motiveraient suffisamment notre décision ». Fin de citation.
La décision de nuire (dont les véritables mobiles sont purement mercantilistes) est largement exprimée sur ces quelques lignes. L’attentat d’Aleg dont les responsables sont aujourd’hui en prison est ramené par méconnaissance profonde à un acte de «banditisme classique».
Toute la France le sait. Mais autant cette indécence d’un TO dont les affaires ont fleuri dans notre désert, est de vouloir faire mauvaise concurrence à ses adversaires sur les corps de nos martyrs est intolérable, autant son immixtion dans la politique intérieure de notre pays est inadmissible.
Qui est Maurice Freund ou Point Afrique pour se prononcer sur la légitimité ou la légalité d’un régime en Mauritanie? Pourquoi s’inviter à un débat qui le dépasse et surtout ne le concerne pas ? De quel droit se donne-t-il un tel droit ? Pour 300 milles prétendument déboursée en Mauritanie après les attentats d’Aleg?
Décidément, comme l'ont suggéraient beaucoup "Point Afrique" aurait mieux fait de se casser sur la pointe des pieds car il sait qu'il traîne beaucoup de casseroles en Mauritanie.
Alors a beau mentir qui vient de loin!
JD
Voila les tarifs de la Somasert pour la saison 2008/2009
Date Aller Retour 24/10/2008 285 € 168 € 31/10/2008 261 € 285 € 07/11/2008 261 € 261 € 14/11/2008 250 € 261 € 21/11/2008 250 € 250 € 28/11/2008 250 € 250 € 05/12/2008 198 € 250 € 12/12/2008 198 € 198 € 19/12/2008 285 € 198 € 26/12/2008 285 € 285 € 02/01/2009 250 € 285 € 09/01/2009 250 € 250 € 16/01/2009 250 € 250 € 23/01/2009 250 € 250 € 30/01/2009 250 € 250 € 06/02/2009 261 € 250 € 13/02/2009 273 € 261 € 20/02/2009 273 € 273 € 27/02/2009 261 € 273 € 06/03/2009 238 € 261 € 13/03/2009 250 € 238 € 20/03/2009 250 € 250 € 27/03/2009 250 € 250 € 03/04/2009 268 € 250 € 10/04/2009 285 € 268 € 17/04/2009 285 € 285 € 24/04/2009 273 € 285 € 01/05/2009 168 € 273 €
Pour les voyageurs arrivant par voie terrestre et souhaitant repartir avec le vol Somasert à Atar, compter 15 à 30 % à rajouter sur le prix du billet indiqué ci-haut, et ce selon la date de retour. Peut-être enregistrerons-nous moins de retard qu'avec les vols Point Afrique ...!!! Cordialement, olivia
Date Aller Retour 24/10/2008 285 € 168 € 31/10/2008 261 € 285 € 07/11/2008 261 € 261 € 14/11/2008 250 € 261 € 21/11/2008 250 € 250 € 28/11/2008 250 € 250 € 05/12/2008 198 € 250 € 12/12/2008 198 € 198 € 19/12/2008 285 € 198 € 26/12/2008 285 € 285 € 02/01/2009 250 € 285 € 09/01/2009 250 € 250 € 16/01/2009 250 € 250 € 23/01/2009 250 € 250 € 30/01/2009 250 € 250 € 06/02/2009 261 € 250 € 13/02/2009 273 € 261 € 20/02/2009 273 € 273 € 27/02/2009 261 € 273 € 06/03/2009 238 € 261 € 13/03/2009 250 € 238 € 20/03/2009 250 € 250 € 27/03/2009 250 € 250 € 03/04/2009 268 € 250 € 10/04/2009 285 € 268 € 17/04/2009 285 € 285 € 24/04/2009 273 € 285 € 01/05/2009 168 € 273 €
Pour les voyageurs arrivant par voie terrestre et souhaitant repartir avec le vol Somasert à Atar, compter 15 à 30 % à rajouter sur le prix du billet indiqué ci-haut, et ce selon la date de retour. Peut-être enregistrerons-nous moins de retard qu'avec les vols Point Afrique ...!!! Cordialement, olivia
olivia, JELOUA, Nouakchott Mauritanie
Merci à toi pour le communiqué de point Afrique que je ne connaissais pas (bizarre, c'est pas dans les newsletters, ça n'a pas l'air d'être simple à "communiquer", pour eux). Merci aussi à PAPY (HJ61) pour son info avec le lien qui va sur un texte trop véhément, mais :
je suis un peu "perplexe" devant les injures envoyées à la figure de "point afrique" et je ne peux pas laisser dire "La réalité économique est que ce tour opérateur introduit en 1996 en Mauritanie après l'échec de "Point Mulhouse" avait fait main basse, à moindre frais, sur le tourisme en Mauritanie"... "avait fait main basse, à moindre frais, sur le tourisme en Mauritanie" : c'est faux. La réalité est que l'initiative de point afrique, n'en déplaise, a développé le tourisme pour le compte de bien des opérateurs, à commencer par les Mauritaniens et que point afrique a largement désenclavé l'Adrar : c'est difficilement contestable quand même !
Le texte proposé par MB41 me heurte sur bien des points : lapidaire, très partial et langue de bois, je n'aime pas l'argumentation qui n'est que lynchage.
Est-il contestable que point afrique ait perdu beaucoup (372 000 €) sur la dernière saison du vol Atar ? J'aurais pensé d'ailleurs qu'ils perdraient plus.
Comment maintenir un vol "boudé" par la clientèle (j'ai regardé le tableau de réservations avant de quitter la france le 17 sept, aucun vol n'affichait jaune ou rouge comme les autres années à la même date et je sentais venir la chose) ?
Comment rassurer la clientèle sur la sécurité quand le dernier attentat se déroule à Tourine que seul l'erg Maktheir sépare de l'Adrar ? et qui est si proche de la grande zone de Zouérate, capitale pour l'économie ?
Lequel erg Maktheir avait été le théatre d'un attentat (plusieurs morts militaires au cours d'une interception manquée de touristes italiens en direction de Rhallaouilla) en décembre 2007 dont on a moins parlé qu'ALEG mais qui était beaucoup plus grave (véritable opé militaire) en terme d'infiltration (loin des bases arrières au Mali), de logistique (carburant) et donc de complicités (car il faut bien disparaître après une telle opération et le ratissage qui s'en suit). Je rapproche les deux opérations et je me dis que ça n'a pas la même incidence que le massacre des militaires en 2005 dans l'extrème-nord-est du pays (Erg Chech-limite du Hod) qui était déjà un signe "fort" de prise-conquète du territoire.
C'est beaucoup plus grave.
L'absence d'explication, de réplique et de résultats des autorités a sans doute pesé.
Pour connaître l'aéroport d'Atar et son fonctionnement, je doute fort qu'on puisse affirmer qu'il est "sécurit".
Y a t'il un communiqué que j'aurais manqué des "forces de sécurité" concernant la capture-anéantissement des acteurs de la tuerie de Tourine ? Ce serait rassurant (à plus de 700 km de leur base arrière). merci de me rassurer en me contredisant (j'aimerais tellement).
Je précise pour "éventuels mauvais procès", pas de toi Tamerlan, ni de toi Papy que j'aime la Mauritanie et que je m'y implique personnellement depuis longtemps.
Mais je suis inquiet, malheureux pour mes amis Mauritaniens (anonymes comme le dit le communiqué de PA), perplexe pour la situation, et je ne prends pas pour "argent comptant" de lynchage de point-afrique malgré tous ses défauts et toutes ses erreurs.
salut à vous et j'espère que les réponses seront "pondérées" et argumentées
luc
“... L’aventure est l’invention de la liberté et ne disparaît qu’avec elle. Ce qui importe sur la route de l’aventure, ce n’est pas ce que l’homme fait mais comment il le fait. L’aventure est dans son regard sur le monde...”
David le Breton
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I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
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On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
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Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!




