Do we need to book our accommodations in advance for Sulawesi?

Hi there, we spent a few weeks there two years ago—just two adults and a 14-year-old teen—and we never booked anything in advance and had zero issues.

Hello,

Thanks so much for your reply. Were you also traveling during high season like we’re planning?

We went in November and December, which is also peak season

Hi Annina, I went to Sulawesi from September 11 to October 14, 2019. I made a few bookings on Booking.com as I went along, but it was unnecessary—there was no one else around. Best regards, Michel

Hi there,

After two trips to Sulawesi in September 2016 and 2018, we never had any issues with accommodations—we always found something on the spot when we arrived. The only snag: I’m not sure how easy it’ll be to find a bungalow in the Togian Islands in July or August (maybe other forum members who’ve been there during those months can weigh in?).

Happy travels!

Hi Christian, Thanks for your messages—they were really helpful during my trip. For the Togian Islands, you can book for the first island on Booking a few days ahead at Kadidiri Paradise. There’s signal at that hotel. Best regards, Michel.

Thanks to everyone for your replies. I still get the feeling that in July, it's best to book ahead in certain places, especially the Togians... It bugs me to have to plan so far in advance, but oh well, I'll go with the flow this time. We'll see how it goes! :-)

Hello,

We’re also traveling in July as a family, but there will be four of us, which makes finding accommodation a bit more complicated. We’re used to traveling and have visited several parts of Indonesia. Two years ago in Sumatra, I booked accommodation on Pulau Weh several months in advance because there weren’t many options that suited me. Do we need to book in advance? It really depends on the places you plan to stay and the number of accommodations available in that area. For the Togians, the selection isn’t huge, and travelers tend to stay for about a week, so there’s little turnover. The same goes for Bunaken—visitors often stay for several days. For Tumbak Island Cottage (well-known since it’s run by a Frenchman), some dates are already fully booked for the summer because there are only 5 rooms. If you book through Booking.com, you can still cancel, but not always at the last minute. Personally, I’ve already booked Bunaken and Tumbak... Since I spend a lot of time planning and researching beforehand, I never want to change my itinerary because I know I’ll enjoy every place, and staying longer in one spot means sacrificing time elsewhere. I also don’t like choosing accommodations randomly because I believe that sleeping well and having a good breakfast at a reasonable price is what makes a vacation great. But everyone travels according to their own style...

Since I take a lot of time to prepare and read beforehand, I never feel like changing my itinerary because every place will appeal to me, and staying longer in one spot means sacrificing time at the next. I also don’t like choosing my lodgings randomly because I believe that sleeping well and having a good breakfast at a reasonable price is what makes my vacations great. But everyone travels according to their own temperament...

Good evening,

I’m not planning a trip to Sulawesi (for now), but I’ve been reading the discussions.

Your explanation perfectly captures how I prepare for my trips!

I always sense disapproval from "seasoned travelers" when I explain that I want to book accommodations and domestic flights in advance... and you’ve managed to sum up my perspective in just a few sentences!

I hate the idea of finding myself on the spot, wasting time searching for the perfect place, recalculating my stay durations, and risking disappointment when I was so sure before leaving about what would catch my eye or not...

For the past two years, I’ve realized (in our couple, I’m the one who organizes everything—my partner just goes with the flow since he doesn’t like planning, while I love it) that if a stop seemed a bit doubtful, it was better to cross it off because it always ended up being a slight letdown.

Thanks, I won’t hesitate to use your spot-on words in the future 😏

Thanks! Here too, I’m the one who plans everything, and my husband just goes with the flow. When I have doubts, I run them by the family, especially my daughter (20), who’s more involved. Don’t hesitate to check out our blog for practical tips that might save you time finding great places to stay and good deals😉

Annina, We spent nearly 3 weeks in Sulawesi in July/August 2019. Private trip arranged through a local agency: went very well. Accommodation: - mid-range+ hotel - guest house - homestay no issues at all Transport: private vehicle + flights + boat Details: - 1 night in Makassar - large-capacity hotel, well-located in the city center, pool - rooms available - 1 night in Rantepao: almost empty hotel - good standard - pool - 2 nights with a local family in Toraja country: excellent for experiencing local life - no problems - 1 more night at the same hotel in Rantepao: visited funeral sites, attended a day-long funeral ceremony, and saw cockfights - very interesting but rainy!! - Lake Tempe: 1 night in a homestay on an island; basic but very clean - great for seeing fishermen's daily life. Overcast with no sunset!! - 1 night at a good-quality hotel in Sengkang: almost empty - 2 nights in Bira at a lodge with waterfront bungalows: very nice - half empty; visited shipyards and port activity. - 1 night on Liu Kang Island: beachfront bungalow - very nice - explored the island - 1 more night in Makassar then flight to Manado - 2 nights in Tomohon; lodge with bungalows - clean - no restaurant, meals brought in: fine but nothing special. In our opinion, the area has very little to offer, especially since it rained (note: July/August is the dry season, but it rained heavily and persistently about 1 day out of 3) - 1 night at Tangkoko Reserve: saw tarsiers and black-crested macaques. Nice - 3 nights on the coast at Pulisan: seaside lodge accessible only on foot - 20-minute walk from the vehicle drop-off. A real paradise - perfect bungalow, adorable Swiss owner - option for diving with a very competent Welsh instructor or snorkeling. (But three nights is enough if you're not a diver!!). Only 3 out of 8 bungalows were occupied. Summary: trip very well organized, agency highly competent, but it wasn't an unforgettable journey (in our opinion - personal feeling only).

I never feel like changing my itinerary because I’ll love every place

You’re lucky to know that in advance... For me, it’s a bit like when you’re looking for a place to live, a house to buy, and you check real estate listings. It often looks great in the photos and description, but once you’re there in person, it’s nothing like it!

Let’s talk about the Togians: I hadn’t booked anything (as usual) but had checked websites before leaving—Booking, etc.—and asked for opinions on VF. I had it in mind to spend a few nights in Kadidiri (can’t remember the name of the lodge). Everyone was raving about this guesthouse! But personally, I didn’t find the place or the accommodation that great. I left the next day for Malenge, where there were two bungalow "complexes" 400 meters apart. I’d thought I’d choose the first one (often recommended), but once there, I picked the second one, which I liked better.

I can’t count the number of times I’ve thought, *Well, thank goodness I didn’t book here!*—even though the "catalog" made it look amazing and it had nothing but positive reviews!

That said, no disapproval from me for those who swear by planning their itinerary day by day and booking everything in advance.

Hi there, I’m tempted by a possible trip to Sulawesi with my two teens.

I have a few questions:

- How do we get there from Paris? - What’s the average price for accommodation (single room with private or shared bathroom)? - Are there any good spots for snorkeling? - Has anyone tried going to the Moluccas or Raja Ampat from Sulawesi? How do you get there?

Thanks in advance for your tips! :)

- how do we get there from Paris? - what’s the average price for accommodation (single room with private or shared bathroom)? - Are there any good spots for snorkeling? - Have you tried going to the Moluccas or Raja Ampat from Sulawesi? How do you get there?

Hi, To answer these questions, you should first let us know: 1- The period you’ve chosen for your trip. 2- How long you plan to stay. (In 3 weeks, you can’t both cross Sulawesi from Makassar to Manado *and* go to Raja Ampat or the Moluccas—unless you spend all your time on transport like buses, boats, and planes.) Sometimes you’ll need to take a boat to reach smaller islands or archipelagos like the Togians or the Bangkas, for example. 3- Your priorities: more diving or snorkeling than visiting indigenous communities or attending animist ceremonies (with a few hikes on the side), or a mix of both. Sulawesi is a big island, and some regions (like Toraja Land, for example) don’t have airports—you can only get there by bus or rental car... 4- What type of accommodation are you looking for? You can find places to stay for around 10–15 € in many spots, but it’ll be pretty basic. On some islands (like the Togians, for example), you might be far from everything, and you’ll have to take the full-board option offered by beachfront guesthouses. That usually costs between 30 and 60 € per person. After that, you can split the cost of half-day boat excursions with other guests to go snorkeling or scuba diving. In areas more focused on scuba diving, you’ll find more comfortable—or even luxurious—hotels, but prices are higher.

Deborah, I traveled in July 2019 with a local French-speaking tour operator on a private trip with my wife, so I can’t answer some of your questions (price per night, cost of transportation). First off, your questions are a bit too vague: "- How to get there from Paris?" I looked for the cheapest flights based on the possible travel window (mid-July to mid-August). In the end, it was flights like Paris-Amsterdam-Jakarta-Makassar on the way out and Manado-Jakarta-Amsterdam-Paris on the way back—three flights with Air France and then Garuda, totaling around 24 hours of travel time. There was also a domestic flight from Makassar to Manado. - How long do you plan to stay in Indonesia, and what means of transport will you use? - We went snorkeling in Bira, Liu Kiang (in the south), and Pulisan (in the north). It was great, but we’re just amateurs! - We only explored Sulawesi—the south, then the north, with a stop in Toraja country. You *can* fly to Rantepao, but the airport is a 3-hour drive away! - When are you thinking of going? July/August is the dry season, but we still had 6 out of 20 days of rain, especially in Toraja country!

Hi there,

... Sulawesi ....- how to get there from Paris?

- Either via Jakarta, with dozens of flights daily to Makassar, Manado, Luwuk, etc. In this case, Paris-JKT with KLM (check the Air France website) or Emirates.

- Or via Kuala Lumpur (with KLM, Malaysian Airlines, or Emirates), then KL-Makassar with Air Asia (1 flight/day).

- Or via Singapore with Singapore Airlines or others, then Singapore-Manado with SilkAir (very expensive).

- Are there good spots for snorkeling?

Yes! 🙂 But they’re different. For example, Bunaken with its exceptional reefs but no beach, the Togian Islands with gorgeous little coves and great snorkeling (though not as good as Bunaken), etc.

- Have you tried going to the Moluccas or Raja Ampat from Sulawesi? How do you get there?

We did the opposite! We traveled to Sulawesi from the Moluccas: Ternate, the capital of the Moluccas, is a 45-minute flight from Manado with Wings Air for around 30 €. There’s also the Pelni ferry that passes by occasionally. You can also fly directly to Ambon, the capital of the South Moluccas, from Manado (1 or 2 flights/day).

You won’t have time to explore both Sulawesi and the Moluccas in 3 or 4 weeks 😛: crossing Sulawesi in less than 3 weeks is impossible, and getting around the Moluccas is unpredictable and complicated.

Check out the travel journals below for Sulawesi and the Moluccas. Have a great trip!

Thanks to everyone for your replies—you're right, I didn’t give enough details.

- The trip would be roughly for 3 weeks in August. - Transportation: I don’t drive, so we’d rely on public transport and flights if needed between Sulawesi and the Moluccas. - Snorkeling would be at an amateur level—my son does it with fins, while I’m happy just floating at the surface with a mask. What would work best for us is snorkeling directly from the beach, since excursions (which we could do occasionally) increase the budget if we have to rent a boat every day. No diving. - Regarding the purpose of the trip: I have an autistic teen who doesn’t handle noise, crowds, or frequent travel well. He generally enjoys small villages with little restaurants, shops, and quiet beaches. We can’t move every day—we stay 2 to 4 days in each spot. We could take a local flight if it’s not too expensive.

To be honest, we’re torn between Sulawesi + the Moluccas and Bali + Nusa Penida + Lombok or Nusa Tenggara. For those who’ve been, which seems more suitable given our need for calm? I have a pretty horrified memory of Kuta from 30 years ago, but I know there are quiet spots even in Bali...

Maybe the deciding factor will be ease of travel and flight options from Paris? And also the chance to spend 3 peaceful weeks discovering a few wonderful places—small villages, local life, quiet beaches with snorkeling right from the shore—that’s our goal :)

Thanks so much in advance for your thoughts! :)

it's possible to go to Rantepao by plane but the airport is 3 hours away by road!!

Well, I said something silly... So there's an airport in Rantepao now? Is that recent, or was it kept secret? I didn’t find it last year. That said, I hadn’t really looked since I’d already been to Rantepao back in the 90s... I assume all flights depart from Makassar (Ujung Pandang)? Where exactly is this Rantepao airfield?

JM, It's Palopo Lagaligo Airport: check flightradar24. 7 flights a week from Makassar, and that's it!!!!

The snorkeling would be at an amateur level—my son does it with flippers, and I just paddle around at the surface with a mask. What would work well for us is snorkeling directly from the beach, since excursions, which are only occasional, increase the budget if we have to rent a boat every day. No scuba diving. - For the purpose of the trip: be aware that I have an autistic teenager who doesn’t handle noise, crowds, or too-frequent travel well. He generally enjoys small villages with little restaurants, shops, and quiet beaches. For travel, we can’t do daily moves—we stay 2 to 4 days at each stop. We can take a local flight if it’s not too expensive.

The Togian Islands could be an option. They’re accessible from the north via Gorontalo or from the south via Ampana. https://onedayonetravel.com/sejour-aux-iles-togian-guide-de-voyage-a-sulawesi/ https://www.voyageindonesie.com/guide-indonesie/destination/iles-togian

On Malenge, for example, you have a choice (among others) between two sets of beachfront bungalows: Sandy Bay and Sera Beach (my favorite), about 400 meters apart (you can walk from one to the other). http://www.sandybay-resort.com/ https://seramalengesulawesi.com/2019/03/06/home/ It’s really off the beaten path. The only big village on the island is 6 or 7 km away (accessible on foot via jungle trails or by canoe), and in that village, apart from a small grocery store, there’s almost nothing else. The two accommodations (there are at least two others) offer full board—no other options. The food is really good (lots of fish!), and the rates are budget-friendly. Electricity is only available for 2 or 3 hours in the evening. No Wi-Fi! So it’s super peaceful! When I went (in March), there were very few people—only a few bungalows were occupied. In August, it might be a good idea to book... From Malenge (just like from the other islands), you can head to other islands and stay a few days (Kadidiri, Bomba, etc.), and also take an excursion to the jellyfish lake where you can swim (harmless jellyfish) and see a Badjo village. On every island and beach with guesthouses, you can snorkel right from the shore, or join group snorkeling trips (and even scuba diving) with other guests to reefs about half an hour from the beach (you share the cost of the canoe) with the bungalow managers.

To be honest, we're hesitating between Sulawesi + the Moluccas and Bali + Nusa Penida + Lombok or Nusa Tenggara. ... Maybe the deciding factor will be the ease of travel and flight options from Paris? And also the possibility of spending 3 peaceful weeks discovering some wonderful spots, small villages, local life, quiet beaches with snorkeling right from the shore—those are our goals :)

Without a doubt, Sulawesi has everything you're looking for: - "wonderful spots, small villages, local life, quiet beaches with snorkeling right from the shore" - only quiet areas, even Bunaken with its many accommodations is very peaceful - plus, transportation is well organized (e.g., VIP overnight buses from Makassar to Rantepao), the only slightly long trip being Rantepao to Ampana port for the Togians

In 3 weeks, you can cross the island or stick to a few regions.

Ease of travel rules out the Moluccas: buses are almost nonexistent, boats get canceled due to wind, waves, breakdowns, etc. You need to have time and stay chill 😎. Too bad, because there are countless dream beaches, zero tourists, and incredibly friendly locals.

Sulawesi + Moluccas: too long, as already mentioned, unless you focus on northern Sulawesi + Halmahera/Ternate/Tidore in the nearby Moluccas. If that’s your final choice, I can give you some tips for visiting a fabulous archipelago north of Halmahera 🙂🙂🙂

Bali + Nusa Penida + Lombok: nice, but it doesn’t match what you’re looking for—there are quite a few people around, even if you can find almost deserted spots.

Nusa Tenggara: possible, but which ones? Sumbawa? Sumba? Flores? etc. Here too, you’ll find everything you’re looking for, except maybe easy transportation (you can find cars without issue, but buses aren’t always readily available).

Hi, why not unforgettable? What would your tips be? Thanks