Bonjour à tous,
en tant que naturalistes, nous prévoyons avec ma moitié de visiter la péninsule de Valdès fin novembre/Début décembre sur 2/3 jours et j'ai quelques questions.
Normalement, les baleines sont supposées être encore ici à cette période, mais j'ai lu qu'avec le réchauffement des eaux, les baleines ont tendance à partir plus tôt. Savez-vous si elles étaient encore présentes à cette période les années précédentes?
J'aurai surtout voulu savoir si vous connaissez un site internet sur lequel serait affiché jour par jour les espèces présentes, où en sont les baleines et autres mammifères marins dans leur migration. Les gros mâles éléphants de mer sont ils observables à ces dates? Et les orques?
Pour visiter la péninsule, nous prévoyons de louer une voiture, est-ce le plus pratique? Pourriez-vous nous indiquer les tarifs locaux svp?
Pour approcher les baleines, est-il nécessaire d'effectuer une sortie en bateaux? J'ai eu la chance de me rendre à Hermanus en Afrique du Sud l'an passé où les baleines venaient à 15 mètres du bord. Est-ce le cas à Valdès ou est-ce qu'elles se tiennent loin des côtes? Auriez-vous une agence respectueuse de la tranquillité des baleines à nous communiquer?
Merci pour vos réponses.
Et si vous avez des logements sympas et pas chers à nous indiquer ou tout autre conseil, ils sont les bienvenus.
Bonjour, c'est plus sympa de louer une voiture, plus de liberté au niveau des horaires et facilités de changer de programme en fonction de la météo ou de ses envies.
Les élephants de mer sont la et j'ai filmé quelques beaux combats de males, on approche a pied a moins de 100 mètres. Les pingouins aussi, suivant
un parcours fléché très bien fait. Les baleines je n'ai rien vu a cette époque mais j'avais déja vu cela a Guerrero Negro au Mexique.
Bonne promenade.
les combats d'éléphants de mer avaient lieu début décembre???
J'ai trouvé des dates très différentes sur internet mais tant mieux si c'est le cas. Ca m'intéresse encore plus que les baleines.
Parc contre, ma compagne aurait la possibilité de se rendre à Valdès durant le mois de Novembre et voudrait vraiment voir les baleines. A cette période, elles seront toujours là?
Bonjour, j'étais a Valdes en décembre, donc les éléphants de mer étaient bien la. Je n'ai pas vérifié si les baleines étaient la en Novembre.
Il n'y a pas foule donc c'est vraiment agréable de faire du tourisme dans cette zone. Mais aujourd'hui les périodes de présence des animaux
sont peut etre moins fermes que dans le passé, a cause des changements climatiques. Nous sommes arrivés a Guerrero Negro(Mexique) pour voir les
baleines, normalement a cette époque nous aurions du arriver a la période des accouchements, en fait c'était déja passé et nous avons vu les baleineaux avec leur mère.
Les baleines, quelquefois n'attendent pas les touristes , même naturalistes...il vaudrait mieux y aller avant décembre...
mais des fois, elles trainent...l'andernier je crois me rappeler q des amis du forum on dit qu'il y en avait beaucoup encore en décembre..;
A mon avis également, il est indispensable de prendre un des bateaux pour aller sur les lieux où se trouvent les baleines.
J'ai trouvé, sauf mauvaise appréciation de ma part, que les argentins sont très attentifs ( malgré ce que représente le tourisme comme intérêt économique) au respect de l'environnement des baleins et les sorties sont en nombre limité.
Pour la loc...de véhicule je ne peux rien te dire
Nicole
Asso. Les Enfants d'Atacama (aide à la scolarisation dans les Andes Argentines- Prov. de Jujuy: San Juan de Quillaques; Puesto Sey et Huachichocana
Les sites pour jeter un oeil:
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/fal83http://brondy.free.fr
Bonjour,
nous étions à la Péninsule Valdès fin novembre/début décembre 2006. Nous pensions y rester 2 jours, nous y sommes restés une semaine. Les baleines ont commencé à repartir vers le grand large début décembre. Il est possible de très bien voir les baleines depuis la côte à condition de louer une voiture/4x4. Si vous êtes naturalistes ce ne sera pas facile de quitter la péninsule car faune et flore sont extraordinaires.
Bonne route
Véro
www.aquandes.be
parce qu´un jour il faut arrèter de rêver et sortir les plans du tiroir (Amyr Klink)
OK,
merci à tous pour vos réponses. On va certainement supprimer une des étapes qu'on avait initialement prévu et consacrer plus de temps à Valdès si c'est aussi beau que ça.
Location de voitures à l'aéroport de Trelew ou' tu as 5 guichets de loueurs , donc le choix:
il y a Hertz , Budget..... . Attention les agences ferment à 19 heures
Nous avions choisi Budget car, très important, il faut demander le kilométrage accordé pour la location par jour. En effet De Trelew à Puerto Madryn il y a 55km puis de Puerto Madryn à Puerto Pyramides (possibilité de coucher à Puerto Pyramides)90 km .Route excellente
Ensuite Le tour de la Péninsule Valdes (252 km environ) Piste type consolidée , parfois toles ondulées . Attention à la vitesse(pas plus de 60km/h avec une petite voiture) car qui dit location d'une petite voiture dit petit pneu , d'ou' grande chance de crever , ce qui nous est arrivé et il n'est pas facile de changer une roue sur une piste sablonneuse avec une petit cric.
Noue avions choisi l' agence Budget car ellel nous acccordait un forfait de 400 km par jour au prix de 227 pesos par jour pour une corsa Compacto ( nous étions 4 passagers)
Nous étions allés aussi à la pingouinerie de Punta Tombo en une journée en passant par le village celtique de Gaiman . Pour nous une journée inoubliable par une piste perdue qui te permet de rencontrer des troupeaux de mouton surveillés par les gauchos à cheval et dans un site plein de pingouins à presque les toucher ( interdit)
Bonjour,
depuis Puerto Piramides il faut prendre un tour en bateau pour aller voir les baleines. Avec une voiture de location il est possible d'aller sur la plage de Punta Pardelas (possible en voiture normale mais limite selon les conditions météos, en tout cas nous on y est arrivés, difficilement, mais on a pas eu le choix car une fois engagé sur le chemin c'était impossible de revenir en arrière). Là il est possible de voir des baleines à une dizaine de mètres du rivage. Elles sont justes magnifiques et on a eu beaucoup de mal à décoller de cet endroit. Mais comme toujours, celà dépend surtout de leur bonne volonté. Nous on a eu de la chance car elles sont venues vraiment tout près ce jour-là. C'était début novembre 2008. Bon voyage.
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Hoyé hoyé amis routards!!! j'ai un petit soucis d'intendance. une amie me rejoint de france sur Oushuaia today, et dédire absoluement faire la péninsule de…
Je voudrai des information sur la Peninsule Valdes en Mars (je sais pas de Baleines) et san voiture. Les distances me semble grandes et pas de possibilite de…
Nous nous rendons mon mari et moi en Patagonie en avril. Nous hésitons à faire une étape à la péninsule de Valdès, n'étant pas sûr des animaux présents à cette…
Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá.
30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate.
01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva.
02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá.
03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento.
04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby?
05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones?
06/12: Flight to Medellín.
07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses?
08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé.
09/12: Return to Medellín.
10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park.
11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance.
12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think?
13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?).
14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao.
15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time.
16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach.
17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February.
I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival.
Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina),
Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit.
Is this doable in 3 months?
Which direction should I take for this itinerary?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much
Hi,
We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca.
From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule?
After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help!
Martin
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me.
What do you think?
What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Bonjour à tous,
Nous partons 3 semaines en Patagonie en novembre en partant a priori depuis Coyhaique au Chili.
Nous ne serons pas motorisés et j'ai beaucoup de mal à obtenir des informations sur les possibilités de transport en quelques endroits de l'itinéraire que nous souhaiterions réaliser :
1) De Perito-Moreno (la ville, près de Los Antiguos), nous aimerions descendre la ruta 40 pour visiter le parc national Perito Moreno et ensuite passer au Chili via le Paso Roballos (à la lattitude de Bajo Caracoles)pour rejoindre la route de Cochrane. Sans voiture, il semble que nous devions passer par des agences privées pour rejoindre le parc national Perito Moreno : avez vous des recommandations ou des suggestions à ce sujet ? Et quelqu'un sait-il s'il est possible de passer (sans loc de voiture) au Chili par le Paso Roballos (depuis Bajo Caracoles), c'est à dire sans devoir descendre jusqu'à El Chalten ni remonter vers Perito Moreno / Los Antiguos etc. ?
2) Le 2ème tronçon qui semble un peu compliqué (mais quand même plus facile a priori) c'est de Caleta Tortel à Villa O'Higgins côté chilien. Doit-on repasser obligatoirement par Cochrane ou bien y a-t-il des possibilités de rejoindre Villa O'Higgins directement depuis Tortel?
3) Enfin, nous souhaiterions rejoindre l'Argentine (El Chalten), à pied, depuis O'Higgins. Auriez vous des recommandations à ce sujet également ? Doit-on passer par une agence ? Durée estimée de l'excursion ?
Vous l'aurez compris, nous souhaitons tout à la fois accéder à des endroits assez peu fréquentés mais nous n'avons pas de voiture pour cela, nous cherchons donc les meilleurs compromis possibles.
Mille mercis d'avance pour toutes vos suggestions !
Thomas
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile!
I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
Good evening,
We’d love to go in November to enjoy some beautiful beaches for about two weeks, preferably around Bahia, as November/December seems like a great time.
We’ve already traveled to Brazil several times and know the south of Rio as well as the region between São Luís and Fortaleza, and Chapada Diamantina...
What advice would you give us: the south with Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo, Boipeba, Barra Grande—or all four? Or maybe the north?
Thanks in advance for your help
Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend?
Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding,
Cocora Valley,
Hiking,
Nearby villages.
Flight to
3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one.
Short night hike.
Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus.
Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback!
Have a great day!
Hi,
During an upcoming trip to Peru, we’ll have one day to explore around Arequipa (excluding Colca Canyon) with a car and driver.
We’ve got a few options:
- Toro Muerto petroglyphs and dinosaur footprints at Querulpa
- Ruta del Sillar and Quebrada de Culebrillas
We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort.
Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site.
Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life.
Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks
Hi there!
I’m putting together my itinerary for Brazil, looking for beautiful natural spots with wildlife, flora, and great hikes...
I’ve come across the Cananeia / Super Agui / Ilha do Mel region and the PETAR / Intervales / Alto Ribeira area.
Has anyone here been to these places? If so, do you have any recommendations for accommodations and activities?
Thanks in advance!
Best,
Olivier 🌍
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA.
Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
Hi there,
We’re spending 3 weeks in Brazil, arriving in São Paulo—a couple plus a teen—and we’ll have a rental car.
We especially love nature: hiking, wildlife watching, birds, etc.
We’re planning to wrap up with a week around Paraty and Ilha Grande.
We’re not really into visiting big cities like São Paulo or Rio unless you think we’d be missing out big time.
So we’ve got 2 weeks to explore the south/southwest region of São Paulo.
What do you recommend?
National parks? Off-the-beaten-path nature spots? Iguazu Falls?
Hi there,
Do you have any recommendations for comfortable accommodation in Leyva and Barichara? We're also looking for a guide to explore the areas around these two towns (parks, waterfalls, etc.).
Thanks for your tips!
I visited Colombia in January 2016 and I’m heading back from August 6th to 17th with the same airline to see how things have changed. Starting August 18th, I’ll continue with independent exploration. I prefer slow travel and enjoying places at my own pace.
Any tips—especially for getting around or must-see spots—are welcome!
Thu Aug 06. Fly Montreal to Bogotá 20:55-04:05+1 Air Canada
Fri Aug 07. Bogotá
Sat Aug 08. Bogotá
Sun Aug 09. Bogotá
Mon Aug 10. Fly Bogotá to Medellín
Tue Aug 11. Medellín - Explore Guatapé
Wed Aug 12. Comuna 8 & Hill of Values - PM Fly to Pereira
Thu Aug 13. Montenegro
Fri Aug 14. Salento - Cocora Valley
Sat Aug 15. Fly to Cartagena
Sun Aug 16. Explore Cartagena
Mon Aug 17. Explore Cartagena
Tue Aug 18. Fly Cartagena to Cali 12:20-14:55 Latam
Wed Aug 19. Cali
Thu Aug 20. Cali
Fri Aug 21. Cali
Sat Aug 22. Bus Cali to Popayán 09:00-13:00
Sun Aug 23. Popayán
Mon Aug 24. Popayán
Tue Aug 25. Popayán - Day trip to Silvia (Market Day)
Wed Aug 26. Overland Popayán to Tierradentro by public transportation 4h, 100km
Thu Aug 27. Tierradentro
Fri Aug 28. Tierradentro
Sat Aug 29. Overland Tierradentro to Garzón via La Plata
Sun Aug 30. Bus Garzón to San Agustín 10:30-13:00
Mon Aug 31. San Agustín
Tue Sep 01. San Agustín
Wed Sep 02. San Agustín
Thu Sep 03. San Agustín
Fri Sep 04. Overland San Agustín to Tatacoa Desert via Neiva
Sat Sep 05. Tatacoa Desert
Sun Sep 06. Fly to Bogotá via Neiva 16:00-17:00 Latam
Mon Sep 07. Bogotá
Tue Sep 08. Fly Bogotá to Montreal 09:00-16:30 Air Canada
Hi there,
Three years ago during a trip to Java (no, I didn’t post in the wrong forum!), I came across the address of former miners who had switched to “tourism” and organized nighttime ascents of the Kawah Ijen volcano and descents into the crater.
So I was thinking—maybe there are miners on the salt flats too, either former or still active, who do the same thing. If you’ve had an experience like this, I’d love any tips you can share.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there, since there isn’t much recent info on how to get to MP, I’d love to know if there have been any improvements to the "route" to Hydroelectrica. Is it feasible to drive there in February? And is it still possible to walk all the way to Aguas Calientes? I think I read somewhere that it’s no longer allowed??
Do you think I can buy Machu Picchu entrance tickets last-minute at that time of year, given the weather?
Nous partons entre amis au Brésil en Mars 2019 et nous souhaitons assister au défilé du carnaval.
J'aurais bien besoin de votre aide car j'ai du mal à trouver des avis sur les sites de vente en ligne pour les tickets du carnaval.
J'ai repéré rio-carnival, est-ce une agence fiable.
Avez-vous d'autres agences à conseiller ou expériences à partager?
Votre aide est la bienvenue.
Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition)
Hi fellow travelers,
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them?
The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings.
Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now.
Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels.
The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
I’ve seen some info about this route, but not nearly enough, so I thought I’d share what I did for anyone interested.
Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.
Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque.
To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.
Oiapoque - Macapá:
From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá.
If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.
Macapá - Santana
You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday...
After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.
Santana - Belém
I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.