Sumatra Questions: Domestic Flights and Route Direction
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Translated into English.

Original post
SO
Hi there, After visiting southern Sumatra in 2020 (Padang area, Bukkitinggi, Lake Maninjau), we’re heading north in two weeks to explore. We’ll arrive in Medan after Singapore. Then we plan to go to Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba before finishing up on Pulau Weh. Yeah, I know three weeks is short, but we like taking our time now that we’re in our fifties 😄. My questions: - Which direction should we do the loop: Medan → Bukit Lawang → Lake Toba → Medan (we’ll be traveling by taxi)? - Can I buy the Medan/Banda Aceh flights just 10 days in advance while we’re there? Any airline to prefer? Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with this part of the world 😊
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there!

This brings back old memories! I went to Berastagi (a volcano in the area) from Medan... I don’t know Bukit Lawang (a tourist trap?). After that, Lake Toba, Samosir Island, then all the way south to Sibolga... It was so long! Then I took a boat to Nias Island. You should go—it was amazing! The houses were a bit like those of the Toraja people in Sulawesi... I won’t be much help with the route! Things must have changed a lot—we did everything by local bus...

Yes, I know three weeks is short, but we like to take our time now that we’re in our fifties.

Banda Aceh

Do people speak highly of that area? Maybe with the new roads and taxis, getting around is easier and faster—otherwise, there’s not really time to dawdle 😉 PS: If you go to Bukit Lawang first, then Berastagi, doesn’t that make a big detour to Lake Toba?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hi Christelle,

Here’s how I did it

Okay, the news isn’t exactly fresh anymore...

But when it comes to the route direction, it’s timeless!

Isn’t sharia law in place on Pulau Weh?
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
As we meet again, Jean Michel 😂. So, Bukit Lawang might be a tourist trap, but we’ll be there off-season, and my goal is to spot some primates at sunrise by the river 😊. Plus, the forest there is stunning. We’ll just pass through Banda Aceh, and Pulau Weh Island has everything we love. Berastagi and Toba are also on the same route. Bukit is a bit out of the way, but not *too* much. Have a great evening
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Oh, so I’m following in your footsteps, Agnès! 😄 Thanks for the link.

I’m laughing re-reading about the era of our trips before Booking.com and all that, when we’d do door-to-door planning. Now I’ve picked everything from my couch 😂 (but still haven’t booked anything—I need to get on that). 16 years later, accommodations have really upped their game: I found several "paradises" for 50 € a night!

For Pulau Weh, no worries if you’re not wandering around in a thong 😆. My Indian outfits will do just fine: T-shirt and knee-length shorts. I’ve read everywhere that you can swim in a bikini without any issues, but if anyone’s found otherwise, I’d love to hear about it!
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I think Booking already existed back then, but not so much in the middle of nowhere! 😉

Sharia isn’t really my thing in general, and definitely not for a beach holiday.🤪

(A sunset by the sea just isn’t the same without drinks...)
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
No worries, Agnès. Remember, we’re from Landes—we always find a solution for apéro 😄. In this case, just head to a dive center and drink it from a tea cup. Strangely, tourism makes religion blind in some places 😵. Reminds me of Pushkar, where they brought us a big can of beer wrapped entirely in aluminum—super discreet 🤫.

Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi Christelle, The feedback I’ve gotten about the Banda Aceh region hasn’t really made me want to go. I agree with Attila on this. If Pulau Weh has the same vibe, I’d avoid it if possible—you can have a great time on Nias Island instead, where the mostly animist population (like around Lake Toba and the Toraja in Sulawesi) is especially welcoming and tolerant. I’m actually surprised this island doesn’t attract more travelers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
We haven’t decided anything yet, Jean Michel, but we’re arriving and leaving from Medan, and it seems easier to get to Pulau Weh than to Nias. And if we’re not into surfing, we love snorkelling. I don’t know if that’s possible in Nias. I’ve read several traveler reviews, and everyone comes back enchanted from Pulau Weh: lush forest, paradise beaches, and easy scooter rental, which matters a lot to us. Some stayed in Banda Aceh and didn’t say anything terrible about it. But it’s true you have to be respectful, and it’s far from the Saint-Tropez vibe 😄. I’ll keep researching since no one here seems to have been there 😅. See you soon
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
I don’t want to influence you (just sharing info), but Nias has lots of snorkeling spots, including Ture Loto Beach in the north of the island. That’s where I went, but I saw there were plenty of others. Since my visit, things may have deteriorated, but that’s the case everywhere. In Nias, there’s so much to see and plenty of walks to do—bike rentals, etc. The island is huge...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
MÉ Mékong Globetrotter ·
Hi Christelle, I’d recommend starting with Lake Toba because, on one hand, it avoids going through Medan (Indonesia’s 4th largest city), and on the other, there’s a highway from the airport all the way to Pematang Siantar. After that, the roads are smooth until Parapat, where you’ll take the ferry. Allow about 3h30 for the drive. The roads are good, which isn’t the case between Binjai and Bukit Lawang—they’re wrecked by trucks transporting fruit for palm oil.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mekong69/sets/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-UPh_7iIlQ
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Thanks Eric. Perfect timing—it’s exactly what I’ve decided since my last message 😄. After Lake Toba, we might stop in Berastagi. My plan is to head to Bukit Lawang via Namoukour. Google Maps says it’s doable, but I trust you way more than it 😉. What do you think?
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
MÉ Mékong Globetrotter ·
The best route to get to Bukit Lawang from Berastagi is the one that passes by the Sinabung volcano on the right—you’ll go past a few ghost villages along the way. Local drivers know this route well.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mekong69/sets/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-UPh_7iIlQ
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Perfect Eric, I think that’s the one 😄😍
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
MÉ Mékong Globetrotter ·
It's a beautiful route. Few trucks. Lovely landscapes. How long are you staying in Bukit Lawang?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mekong69/sets/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-UPh_7iIlQ
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
I don’t know yet—it’ll depend on whether we fall in love with Lake Toba or not 😊
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
P1 P19 Regular ·
Hello, did you end up taking your trip, and if so, could you share your itinerary with me, please? Thanks in advance. Philippe
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Hi Philippe, Thanks for taking me back to my memories 😊. Yes, we went to Sumatra as planned in March/April 2025, with stops at Lake Toba (4 nights), Berastagi (1 night), Bukit Lawang (3 nights), Pulau Weh (6 nights), and Singapore before and after. What would you like to know?
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Haha, I was waiting for your question, Djalma! 😜

We spent 7 days in the area renting a scooter and found some top-notch accommodations for all budgets a dream snorkeling spot some stunning beaches where you’re not bothered by neighbors 😊 and a little emotion during the visit to the Banda Aceh mosque that looked like this after the tsunami 😢



And Sharia law, you might ask? Well, as a tourist, you don’t even notice it. In Banda Aceh, the welcome was like this

and the image I keep of the place is this one

Everywhere, women ride scooters, work, and live their lives without a guy glued to their sneakers. I certainly wouldn’t want to be in their shoes because the rules they have to follow are probably numerous, but Indonesian Sharia law has nothing to do with Afghanistan’s. On the other hand, it’s the perfect remedy for mass tourism 😄. Apart from a few expats who really know what’s going on, we didn’t come across a single tourist, which is becoming rare on a dream island. But I really only recommend this destination to tolerant travelers who are ready to leave their preconceptions at home. I think you’d be a great candidate! 😉 Interested?
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Oh wow, it looks amazing in terms of "Environment"! 1-We're getting lazier and lazier 2- Winter in the Vercors always feels a bit long... A few relaxed hikes and some snorkeling would be perfect... From what I gather, it's not too crowded or polluted... I guess the fact that it's still a bit tricky to get to—even if it's easier and faster now—must help keep mass tourism at bay. Good thing! Though I'm not sure my wife would easily pull off your "costume" like in the photo ;) Is a swimsuit allowed?

Personally, I'd be up for it... What's the closest "aérodrome"? Banda Aceh, I assume?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Yes, a flight from Banda Aceh and then less than 2 hours by boat. I tried out this kind of "outfit" for a trip to India, thinking it would be super uncomfortable, but now I’m a total fan—it’s so comfy (super loose, well-ventilated clothes where I can sit in any position without worrying about showing my underwear 😄). For bikinis, it’s simple: not recommended in public, but locals don’t go to the beaches 😐. We’d stop at guesthouses to eat and ask if it was a problem. They always said no, and I swam every day without being hassled—guess Sharia isn’t what it used to be 😏! !
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Some of the photos posted are far from selling the dream, especially for a beach getaway...

This certainly explains why tourists go elsewhere.

For locals, sharia means this.

That’s just as much of a dream-killer...
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Aaaah, I was waiting for you, Agnès! 😄 Yes, I’ve read articles like that before. But I’m just sharing what I saw and experienced there firsthand. And honestly, I was really surprised by how independent women were—nothing like what I’d read from my couch! For the rest, I don’t judge cultures that are so different from mine. Over there, they flog people; here, we lock humans up for loooong periods just because they weren’t born in the right place!! Personally, I’d take 100 cane strokes over months of imprisonment (yes, I know they’re called "detention centers"—sounds nicer 😒). Anyway, if you know of a perfect country, I’m all ears! 😉
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I don’t know why, but there are more flows of political or religious refugees heading to Europe than to Indonesia...

Personally, I’d rather not have to deal with religious extremists who don’t like anyone—not even themselves—and who destroy all the world’s beauty because they can’t dominate it.

Sharia isn’t a culture. It’s a form of oppression.

Indonesian Muslim culture used to be a mix of a soft Islam and ancestral traditions.

Now it’s turning into brainless Islamism, imported from the Arabian Peninsula—the most dangerous colonizers that exist.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Like always, Agnès, I’m just sharing what I experienced during the 7 days we spent in the Banda Aceh province. We were without a guide, I rode a scooter alone several times, and I didn’t come across any "brainless Islamists" (we even had beers every night—enough said 😄). But I don’t doubt for a second that they exist! It’s just that the reality on the ground is way more nuanced than the image portrayed of this part of the world. But if you’ve read or seen it on TV, you probably know more than I do.
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I could never agree with you on this.

Naivety isn’t one of my flaws.

Besides, I’ve traveled to Indonesia a few times. And I met locals complaining about the grip of Islamists on their country.

But since I wasn’t wearing Islamic attire, maybe they felt more at ease and opened up?

I really liked this Muslim Indonesian wandering around a Buddhist site and making an offering to gods that weren’t normally his.

When I asked him about it, he replied:

"Gods who built such monuments must have great power. It’s important not to get on their bad side."

Enough said.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
But there’s no need to agree or disagree, Agnès. I’m not saying Islamic extremism doesn’t exist—I’m just saying I didn’t feel it more there than anywhere else, whether in Indonesia or in Casamance, where I just came from. The reality on the ground is far less black-and-white than what we’re told. And since, for me, being a bit naive is a quality LOL, I’ll pile on with June, the manager of "our" guesthouse "made in Sharia" 😄

Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Your photos really made me feel it. That’s why we’ll never agree on the topic of religious pressure.

And if there isn’t any, does that mean all those people being publicly whipped is just theater, something made up? Would you recommend the destination to a gay couple?
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
You’ll also find in this discussion what a long-term Indonesia resident thinks about this topic.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Really Agnès, you’re not reading what I write, and I’m not trying to "sell" you anything 😅. I’m not in denial about this Islamic extremism—I’m just saying I didn’t see it with my own eyes while I was there, which isn’t the same thing. And I wouldn’t recommend this destination to overly affectionate couples (gay or straight), women in mini shorts, "vacationers," or... well, I wouldn’t recommend it to many people, actually 😅—except to Djalma and those whose curiosity about difference outweighs their preconceptions
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Those last words don’t make any sense at all. There’s no bias since even you advise against the destination for people who’d want to come as they are. That just shows there’s an issue.😇
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Definition of 'a priori': "based on information prior to experience."

So there are those who’ve read things and will never go there, and those who prefer to see for themselves if the reality on the ground matches what they’ve been told.

That’s all I wanted to say
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
So there are those who have read things and will never go there, and there are those who prefer to see for themselves if the reality on the ground matches what they’ve been told.

That’s all I wanted to say.

Yeah, just like in every aspect of life, it’s the experience—the actual lived reality—that really matters. Besides, strange customs and traditions we might call barbaric aren’t exclusive to any one religion. They exist among peoples we not long ago still labeled as primitive. With the globalization of lifestyles and modernism, all of that will fade away quickly. We might even celebrate that—if the dark, unhealthy side of religion didn’t drag its vital, luminous energy down into the abyss with it. Hard to explain that to people who only rely on their brains and rational intelligence to understand life. Some travel just to see beautiful landscapes and take nice photos… and to enjoy a drink on a terrace with a view. The local population, with their religion, festivals, and customs? If they didn’t exist—or if we could avoid them—it’d be ideal. I once heard someone say: Corsica would be so beautiful… without the Corsicans!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
There are those who prefer not to fund extremism, and those who prefer to think about the people who don’t have the choice to live their lives as they’d like where they live.

Besides, you haven’t convinced me that what’s written in various newspapers I’ve read on sites like Amnesty International, or the testimonies of people living there, isn’t reality. My own experience in Indonesia also tips the scales. 🙂

I think we’ve covered the topic thoroughly—we won’t convince each other.

Still, our exchange will have the benefit of showing readers of this thread the different sides of this Potemkin village that is Pulau Weh.

This case isn’t unique, by the way. To attract tourists and their money, a few exceptions to the dictatorial program are always welcome.

(I felt like I was interning at LFi—it was pretty funny. 😄)
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SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Ah, thanks Jean Michel—I thought I’d lost my French, but you totally got what I meant! 😉

The upside of a destination like this, beyond being wild and untouched, is that the few other tourists you meet "speak the same language" as us: they’re more about curiosity and understanding what they see than judging it.

But I’m kinda glad Islam is so demonized in France (even though it’s so diverse) because right now, it’s the only thing keeping mass tourism out of these stunning places.

Just got back from Gambia/Casamance, where I spent a few days hanging out with "Muslim Rastas" (that’s how they describe themselves!).

Sure, they don’t drink alcohol... but man, do they smoke marijuana! 😂 !
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Living among a population, sharing good times with the people you meet, and approving of a country's politics or religious rules are two very different things in my eyes. If we had to take those factors into account, we'd never go anywhere. In the US—a civilized country—death row inmates wait in prison for 15 years for their execution, which is constantly postponed... they also execute the mentally ill and minors... Between going to Pulau Weh or an all-inclusive in the Maldives, my choice is quick... yet the rules governing those two places are quite similar. The fear of being arrested, kidnapped, or falling victim to a terrorist attack—I get it... I now avoid certain countries I visited without worry when I was younger. Will you tell us about Senegal? When you mention the rastas, one country comes to mind: Belize]😉
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Yeah, that’s right, same here Jean Michel. To be honest, I’d planned to tell you all about Sumatra, but given the vibe, I’ll hold off 😅. Casamance might go down better, though—with its Islam that’s pretty tolerant of drugs and prostitution 😏.

(Belize has already caught my eye, but we’ve never taken the plunge!)
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
MA Marifb Veteran ·
I know a place where you could share that, Solène40... and we’d be *really* interested...
Marifb
SO Songsam Veteran ·
I know a place where you could tell us about that, Solène40... and we’d be *really* interested...

That’s pretty sneaky of you...
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Oh dear Thierry, where’s the dishonesty? We’ve got to stop this forum feud—it’s honestly ridiculous.
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Let's stop the forum wars, it's really ridiculous.

good evening, you mention the Casamance region, which apparently has relaxed morals. Both in Indonesia and Malaysia don’t touch anything related to drugs and stay as far away from that as possible. I’m writing this for people who don’t know—otherwise, it’s heavy prison sentences.
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Yes, Mathews, good point to clarify. We just stuck with rum instead of ganja 😅. It’s not that I don’t feel like it sometimes when I see their state of "zen," but I don’t mess with that abroad—I have zero desire to end up on French TV from some "exotic" jail!
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!

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