Back from 4 weeks in northern Laos, November 2023
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
TF
Hi there, I’m so glad the VoyageForum is back up. Reading 'Montagnard74’s' Laos trip report (which I read yesterday) made me want to share my own (which I already posted a year ago on another forum). Here’s a little recap of our 3 weeks in northern Laos, plus a few days in Vientiane. By the way, we could easily go back to the north—there’s so much to see and do; probably in a few years.

This was our 3rd trip to Laos after having already done:

1st trip in 2012 (3 weeks), a quick overview: Vientiane Vang Vieng Luang Prabang Plain of Jars

2nd trip in 2017 (1 month): Vientiane all the way to the 4,000 Islands via Thakhek, Kong Lor, the Bolaven Plateau, Savannakhet, Pakse...

Our 2023 itinerary (1 month): Vientiane Luang Prabang Muang Ngoi Nong Khiew Luang Namtha Muang Sing Boten Vang Vieng Vientiane

Some general info (2023): For those who’ve already been to Laos: everything has gone up a lot—I think prices have almost doubled for transport, accommodation, meals... everything. But Laos is still a budget-friendly country for us. As a couple, we spent 1,100 € for a month, all included (and we definitely didn’t skimp on massages :)).

Don’t trust the transport signs posted everywhere—at travel agencies, bus terminals, hotels... THEY’RE ALL WRONG (especially the schedules). They haven’t been updated since before Covid.

There are hardly any bikes for rent anymore, but scooters are easy to find everywhere. We switched our mode of transport toward the end of our stay: from bikes to scooters, which let us go farther. In Vientiane, we only saw one bike rental place, near Ong Teu Pagoda.

BCEL bank doesn’t charge a commission on foreign currency exchanges. Using ATMs is expensive due to fees. Outside Laos, Lao kip are basically worthless. There’s so much inflation that I couldn’t find a single bank or exchange office willing to swap the kip we had left. So, don’t exchange too much toward the end of your trip.

Some little tips from our experience (2023): The Muang Koua to Muang Ngoi boat still runs daily. At the dam, you have to get off and take a bus, then get back on the boat.

The boat from Muang Ngoi to Nong Khiew only leaves at 9:30 AM (don’t miss it or you’ll pay a lot for a private boat). From Nong Khiew to Muang Ngoi, there are at least two boats a day.

From Luang Namtha to Muang Sing: 4 to 5 buses a day, the last one leaves around 3:30 PM.

From Luang Namtha or Muang Sing to Nateuy or Boten (to catch the new train): 3 to 5 buses a day.

The new train is really hard to book—it’s often fully booked 48 hours in advance, even the local train (5 hours from Boten to Vientiane instead of 3 hours on the high-speed train). (That makes it tough to travel day by day, which we love... too bad.) For baggage checks: don’t bring anything flammable (sprays...) or sharp. My mosquito repellent (flammable but in a small plastic bottle) got through. Water bottles and a tiny pocketknife are okay. But it seems to depend on the station.

Some guesthouses prefer to be paid in dollars, otherwise the price is much higher.

If you’re entering Laos from Vietnam via Dien Bien Phu, you have to get your visa at the embassy in Hanoi—otherwise, you’ll be refused at the border (no e-visa or visa on arrival).

Apart from Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Muang Ngoi/Nong Khiew, there are very few tourists.

Some bus prices (in addition to those mentioned in my trip report) (with pick-up) 2023: Luang Prabang to Luang Namtha: 320,000 kip per person, 9h LP to Phonesavan: 250,000 kip per person, 7h LP to Phongsaly: 450,000 kip per person, 13h LP to Huay Xai: 420,000 kip per person, 14h Train Nateuy to Vientiane: 400,000 kip per person LP to Chiang Rai: 780,000 kip per person, 18h LP to Hanoi: 900,000 kip per person, 24h LP to train station: 50,000 kip per person LP to airport: 100,000 kip per person Vientiane from train station: 180,000 kip by taxi

Boats: LP to Pak Beng: 300,000 kip per person, 1 day LP to Houay Xai: 500,000 kip per person, 2 days LP to Pak Ou: 180,000 kip per person, 5h
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
Even though we had plenty of time, you’ll see that we would’ve loved to stay longer in some places. When it comes to accommodations, you can find cheaper options, but our requirement is: a private bathroom :)

- Arrived on November 8, 2023, in Vientiane (coming from BKK) to check the exact date of the Boun That Luang festival. As always, we stayed near the Mekong in the city center ($20 a night).

- November 10: Van to Luang Prabang (8h, 400,000 kip/person), great road until Vang Vieng, then one pothole after another.

- November 10–13: Luang Prabang (if you’ve never been, I’d say you need at least 4 full days) with visits to Kuang Si Falls again, Mount Phousi, and the old town. In 2012, we also did Tad Sae Falls—really beautiful—and the Pak Ou Caves.







We stayed a 5-minute walk from the Night Market ($12 a night).

- November 13–17: Van to Nong Khiaw (3h30, 150,000 kip/p), good road, then straight to a boat for Muang Ngoi (1h, 50,000 kip/p). We stayed 3 nights but would’ve happily stayed 2 more. It’s a charming little town, and you can easily walk to 2 villages (Ban Na, a Khmu village, and another one) about 2–3 hours away (you can sleep there) while passing near a cave. You can get there via two routes: one following the road, the other crossing the rice fields.



This is where we stayed the cheapest with an amazing view of the Nam Ou River: 120,000 kip a night in a small bungalow (plenty of options), and where we ate the best curry of our trip. Also, hike up to the viewpoint next to the pagoda in Muang Ngoi—it’s a climb, but the reward is worth it (small entrance fee).

TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
We also took a boat trip (45 minutes each way) to two villages: Ban Hatsapel (very authentic), a Khamu village



then walked to the Thaidam village of Ban Sopchem (touristy).



Along the way, an extraordinary viewpoint. And a guesthouse by the pier with a paradise-like garden—it’s true, you could spend time there.



Returned the next morning by boat to Nong Khiaw (1 night, 250,000 kip, in the center near the bridge) and went for a bike ride in the countryside, visiting some lovely spots. We could’ve stayed at least one more day—such a pleasant village with stunning landscapes.



- November 17: Van to Oudomxai (3h, 150,000 kip/person). Good road, a non-touristy but pleasant town to break up the long journey between Nong Khiaw and Luang Namtha. We got a VIP room, huge, for 250,000 kip.



- November 18–21: Van to Muang Sing (MS) via Luang Namtha (LN). (On the van to LN, we met some Lao people taking the connection to MS, so we tagged along. Total 6h30: 4h to LN, 1h wait, 1h30 to MS, 100,000 kip/person for LN, 50,000 kip/person for a taxi to switch terminals, 80,000 kip/person for MS.) From Oudomxai to Nateuy, good road, then it’s a disaster until LN, and again a good road to MS.

We stayed 3 nights in MS—few guesthouses are open (Phu Ji is, otherwise near the market are charm-free GHs). So we took Phu Ji (I mention it because few GHs are open; 250,000 kip per night with breakfast). We were even the only Europeans for 48 hours. The town is sleepy and waiting for tourists. We rented bikes from the GH to explore the surroundings for 2 days: Thaidam, Thai Hneu, Akha, and Lao Lu villages. We would’ve happily added 2 more nights.







TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
- November 21 to 23: Van to Luang Namtha (1h30, 80,000 kip/person), good road and beautiful landscapes. We stayed 2 nights (200,000 kip per night) and would have liked to stay 2 more nights, but my husband wanted to see Boten too.

We always get around by bike and only managed to do part of the loop—there’s so much to see: lovely villages (Hmong, Lenten, Thaidam, Nam Dee with its waterfalls) and rice field farming.













- November 23 to 25: Van to Boten (1h30, 100,000 kip/person), terrible road. In Boten, we spent ages looking for a hotel—nothing is written in English or Lao, just Chinese everywhere, even for payments. People prefer yuan. Finally, we found a hotel on the 19th floor, 410,000 kip per night! But the bedding still gives me sweet dreams today :)

This isn’t a pagoda but the border post for China :)



We wanted to leave the next day by train to Vientiane... BUT the train was fully booked until the afternoon of the 25th. We paid for our tickets in kip at Boten station (4 km from the city). Boten isn’t very interesting except for being on the Chinese border. There are only trucks, dust, and more trucks. Laos once wanted to turn it into the Las Vegas of Asia, and a few nice buildings remain, but now they’re planning to make it a super-modern megacity. It feels like China—everyone speaks and eats Chinese. The night market has great food, though.



- On November 25, we finally took the first available local train: 390,000 kip/person! The fast train would have cost 1,700,000 kip/person, which is expensive, but there were no seats anyway. 5 hours to Vientiane, a pleasant trip with beautiful landscapes along the way. We arrived at Vientiane station, which is about 10 km from the city center, and headed back to our favorite guesthouse.
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
- November 26 and 27: We take part in the Boun That Luang festival. Laos’ most important religious festival, it lasts 2 days. Then a few more days in Vientiane.











- November 29: Van to Vang Vieng (2h, 160 000 kips per person), 2 nights in a hotel with a view of the pretty mountain (320 000 kips per night). The town has changed a lot since our last stay in 2012 when there was still plenty of partying... This is our second visit, but if you’ve never been, it’s better to stay 4 nights to explore the lovely valley with its landscapes, small lakes, and caves.





In the valley, there are several pools with stunning water. Up in the mountains, there are usually caves to visit. You’ll need to bring your own flashlights, but it’s still a bit adventurous.





Then back to Vientiane, and after 4 weeks in Laos, we head to BKK and 2 weeks at the beach (Pattaya, 2 nights—we had no choice since there were no more seats on the bus to Koh Chang (the downside of traveling day by day without booking in advance)), then 5 nights on Koh Chang and 6 nights on Koh Kood). At the end of our trip: 3 nights in BKK at our favorite hotel with a view of the Chao Phraya.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Hi Elisabeth, I just came across your travel journal—it’s really interesting! I’m heading to Laos and northern Thailand to cross the land border. This year, I’d like to explore northern Laos all the way to Vientiane. I’ll be traveling from October 23 to November 25. I’m planning to spend 8 to 10 days in Thailand and the rest of the time in Laos.

I haven’t finalized my itinerary yet, but I’ll definitely draw inspiration from yours. I’ll have to make some tough choices 🤔 since it’s my first trip to Laos, and I’ve read that spending a week in Luang Prabang isn’t too much.

I’ll probably reach out again for some tips. Do you have a paper guidebook you’d recommend?

Thanks, and have a great day! Mariejo
Qui a l'habitude de voyager sait qu'il vient toujours un moment où il faut partir... Paulo Coelho
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
hi there, what a wonderful trip you’ll have! Feel free to reach out again if you need anything. Here’s a little suggestion (which is also one of my plans for my next visit to Laos): descend the Mekong by boat from the Thai border all the way to Luang Prabang. It takes 2 days. For a paper guidebook, I’d say any up-to-date one will do—just pick one that’s either practical or culturally focused, depending on what you’re looking for. Also, every guesthouse is well-organized to offer a whole range of minivans or buses.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Thanks for your reply. I did read that you can travel down the Mekong to Luang Prabang, and it’s really tempting. I’ll get back to you once my plans are more solid. For now, I’ve got a travel journal to write about my last trip to India.
Qui a l'habitude de voyager sait qu'il vient toujours un moment où il faut partir... Paulo Coelho
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
ah, I thought I recognized your username... you're the one hunting for the Baoris in Rajasthan? I was there 1 month ago :)
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
That’s it, but not just that! 🤗😊 Mostly off-the-beaten-path spots 😉😆 And I just got back from Nagaland—so unique and beautiful—Assam, which I loved, and Meghalaya, gorgeous but *super* rainy. So many new discoveries! 🤩🤔😉
Qui a l'habitude de voyager sait qu'il vient toujours un moment où il faut partir... Paulo Coelho
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Good evening Elisabeth

"We’re staying 3 nights in MS—few guesthouses are open (Phu Ji is, otherwise it’s guesthouses near the market with no charm). So we booked Phu Ji (mentioning it since so few are open; 250 000 ₭ per night with breakfast)."

Would you happen to have the contact details for your guesthouse, Phu Ji? I can’t find anything about it in Muang Sing. Thanks. Is it possible to do a day trip from Muang Sing → Luang Namtha → Houeisai and then take the bus to Chiang Rai? It’ll be a long day, but is it doable?

Thanks and have a good evening, MarieJo
Qui a l'habitude de voyager sait qu'il vient toujours un moment où il faut partir... Paulo Coelho
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
Hi Marie Jo,

""Could you share the contact details for your guesthouse Phu Ji? I can’t find anything in Muang Sing. Thanks."" **I found it in an old Laos guidebook: Phou Ji or Phou Iu Guesthouse 2. It’s on a small street to the left as you enter the village. But since late 2023, I think others may have reopened. I Googled Phou Ji and found this guesthouse :)**

""Is it possible to do in one day: Muang Sing - Luang Namtha - Houeisai - and then take the bus to Chiang Rai? It’ll be a long day, but is it doable?"" **We did the reverse route from Oudomxay, but Houeisai is even farther! Total time: 6h30: Oudomxay to LN is 4h, 1h wait, 1h30 to MS, 100,000 LAK per person for LN, 50,000 LAK taxi to switch terminals, 80,000 LAK per person for MS. So, in LN, you’ll already need to switch bus terminals if coming from MS... unless it’s the same for Houeisai, but I doubt it since one is north and the other south. Then in LN, you’d have to catch another bus to Houeisai, then another to Chiang Rai... and knowing Lao transportation, I’m not sure it’s 100% possible. (They tell you the bus leaves at a certain time, but you wait until it’s full...) So, better to plan ahead: either through a local agency (though at the end of 2023, there weren’t many in LN and none in MS), or maybe an overnight in Houeisai.**
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Okay, I think I’m being greedy on the way back 😋 I’ll plan a stop along the way and adjust my itinerary. It’s not always easy to predict how many days you’ll need once you’re there. 😅 I need to cut out one day somewhere. I still have time to think about it 😊😊 Thanks Elisabeth
Qui a l'habitude de voyager sait qu'il vient toujours un moment où il faut partir... Paulo Coelho
HE Henon21 Veteran ·
Hi there, During my 4th trip to Laos, I opted for the Mekong River descent from Houay Say (or Xai) to Luang Prabang. The starting city itself is interesting to me—the views of the Mekong’s banks are really beautiful. A night in Pakbeng was pleasant, and at the end of the day, the elephants from the reserve across the city come to drink and bathe in the river.

On the second day, there were two stops: a village with a distillery (a bit... touristy) and a visit to the Thousand Buddhas Cave, which is always a pleasure to explore.

A great experience overall. Happy cruising to you two forum members who have this trip planned! Eric
HENON Eric
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
Definitely on the agenda for an upcoming trip to Laos :) Elisabeth
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
During my 4th trip to Laos, I chose the Mekong River descent from Houay Xay to Luang Prabang. The departure city itself is interesting to me—the views of the Mekong’s banks are stunning. A night in Pakbeng was pleasant, and at the end of the day, elephants from the reserve across the town come to drink and bathe in the river.

On the second day, two stops: a village with a distillery (a bit... touristy) and a visit to the Thousand Buddhas Cave, which is always enjoyable. A great experience overall.

Hi Eric, Sorry for the delay—I planned this itinerary on arrival. I’ll adjust my return trip to two days... I’ll have to cut one day from the route. I’ll think about it in the coming days and share my plan with you. Have a good evening.
Qui a l'habitude de voyager sait qu'il vient toujours un moment où il faut partir... Paulo Coelho
MY Mydom ·
Hi there, My partner and I are leaving on January 12, 2026, for three weeks, and so far I’ve only booked the flight tickets. We’ll be traveling just the two of us with backpacks. At the very bottom, I’ve listed the stops I’m imagining: - Are the durations I’ve noted reasonable, or should we stay longer in some places and visit fewer towns/villages? - Regarding reservations (train, bus, accommodation), is it doable to book as we go to keep things flexible, given the transport times?

Thanks so much if you can share your experience with us! And most of all, have a wonderful holiday season!

arrival days transport visits Vientiane Mon 1/13 at 10:45 AM 1 sightseeing + find bus Phou Khao Khouay Tue 1/14 2 bus Phou Khao Khouay National Park + Tad Xay and Tad Leuk Waterfalls + hikes =Phou Pha Phae + Ban Hat Khai Loop Vang Vieng Fri 1/16 2 train or bus Kaeng Nyui Waterfall + Nam Xay viewpoint + Blue Lagoon + kayaking + Tham Chang Cave COPE Visitor Center + Wat Si Phouthabath Phonsavan Sun 1/18 2 minivan taxi MAG Visitor Center + survivor info center + Plain of Jars (Sites 1, 2, and 3) Luang Prabang Tue 1/20 2 minivan taxi info center + Pak Ou Caves + Kuang Si Waterfall (rent a scooter) Phu Si Stupa + Nong Khiaw Thu 1/22 2 minivan taxi Phadeng Peak Viewpoint + Som Nang View Point + Sleeping Lady Peak + Phao Kao viewpoint + 100 Waterfalls Circuit, stream walk + massages Muang Ngoi Neua Sat 1/24 2 boat hike to Phanoy + Phaboom Oudomxai = Muang Xai to Nateuy Mon 1/26 1 minivan taxi overnight break Van to Luang Namtha Tue 1/27 2 minivan taxi pretty villages (Hmong, Lenten, Thaidam, Nam Dee with waterfalls) and rice field work. Muang Sing Thu 1/29 2 minivan taxi We’ll rent a bike at the guesthouse to explore the area for 2 days. Villages: Thaidam, Thai Hneu, Akha, and Lao Lu. Vientiane Sat 1/31 2 train back to Vientiane COPE Visitor Center + Patuxai (Lao Arc de Triomphe) + Wat Si Muang Temple Wat Si Saket + Wat Haw Pha Kaeo + That Dam + Pha That Luang (Great Stupa) French Quarter & Samsenthai Street + Talat Sao Morning Market + Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan) = Rent a bike or tuk-tuk (25 km from Vientiane).
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi there,

arrival nb days transport visits Vientiane Tue13/1 at 10:45 AM 1 visits + look for bus to Phou Khao Khouay Wed14 2 bus Phou Khao Khouay National Park + Tad Xay and Tad Leuk Waterfalls + hikes =Phou Pha Phae + Ban Hat Khai Loop Vang Vieng Fri16 2 departure by train or bus Kaeng Nyui Waterfall + Nam Xay viewpoint + Blue Lagoon + Kayaking + Tham Chang Cave COPE Visitor Center + Wat Si Phouthabath Phonsavan Sun18 2 minivan taxi MAG Visitor Centre + survivors info center + The Plain of Jars (Site 1, 2, and 3) Luang Prabang Tue20 2 minivan taxi info center + Pak Ou Caves Tat Kuang Si Waterfall (rent a scooter) Phu Si Stupa + Nong Khiaw Thu22 2 minivan taxi Phadeng Peak Viewpoint + Som Nang View Point + Sleeping Lady Peak + Phao Kao viewpoint + 100 Waterfalls circuit, stream walk + massages+ Muang Ngoi Neua Sat24 2 boat hike to Phanoy + Phaboom Oudomxai= Muang Xai to Nateuy Mon26 1 minivan taxi break for the night Van to Luang Namtha Tue27 2 minivan taxi pretty villages (Hmong, Lenten, Thaidam, Nam Dee with waterfalls) and rice field work Muang Sing Thu29 2 minivan taxi We take a bike at the GuestHouse to explore the area for 2 days. Thaidam, Thai Hneu, Akha, and Lao Lu villages... Vientiane Sat31 2 return by train to Vientiane COPE Visitor Center + Patuxai (Lao Arc de Triomphe) + Wat Si Muang Temple Wat Si Saket + Wat Haw Pha Kaeo + That Dam + Pha That Luang (Great Stupa) French Quarter & Samsenthai Street + Talat Sao Morning Market + Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan)= Rent a bike or tuk-tuk (25 km from Vientiane).

?? What a wall of text!... Your post is anything but clear—it’s really hard to read. Plus, listing the days of the week and every single detail of your visits at each stop isn’t all that helpful. How about rewriting it like this: Vientiane 3 nights Vang Vieng 4 nights Luang Prabang 5 nights etc. ?
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
Hi there, sorry for the delay—I was offline.

Your itinerary looks great... but it’s not really suited for a 3-week trip. In Laos, you should plan about one day for each journey since the roads aren’t like in France, so things move pretty slowly. From what I’m reading, you’ll only have one full day at each stop for sightseeing, which is a shame after traveling so many kilometers—especially since the landscapes and places to visit are stunning, and I’m sure you’ll want to stay at least two full days at each stop! So, either skip the Plain of Jars side or drop the Luang Namtha and Muang Sing part.

Wishing you a fantastic trip—you’ll see, Laos is amazing.
TF Tfcboy31 Regular ·
- Regarding bookings (train, bus, accommodation), is it feasible to do them on the spot as we go to keep some flexibility, given the length of the transports?: **You can book transport and accommodation as you go, depending on your plans and progress. However, for trains, it's better to book a few days in advance, otherwise you might get stuck or have to take the bus, which is much longer.**

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