Retour de Luang Prabang, février 2019
by Via90
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à tous
Quelques commentaires pour ceux qui envisagent de se rendre à Luang Prabang. J'y avais passé 3 jours il y a quelques années et j'en étais partie très frustrée car c'est un tel bonheur de déambuler dans cette petite ville qu'on peut facilement parcourir à pied, de visiter les temples - tous plus beaux les uns que les autres -, de découvrir les jolies maisons coloniales, d'observer paresseusement les bateaux naviguer sur le Mékong, de flâner au marché de nuit, que je rêvais d'y revenir avec plus de temps pour en profiter, d'autant que les Laotiens sont accueillants et que la vie n'y est pas très chère (un peu plus chère qu'au Cambodge toutefois).
Malgré l'arrivée des touristes chinois, Luang Prabang a toujours autant de charme mais, pour savourer la douceur de vivre de la ville, il ne faut pas trop tarder à y aller car il y a un projet de construction d'une ligne de TGV depuis la Chine et il est également question d'ouvrir des vols directs avec l'Australie...La ville s'anime à la tombée de la nuit mais cela se limite essentiellement à la rue principale où se tient le marché de nuit et où il y a des bars et restaurants très sympas et, outre le fait que vers 22h, tout le monde plie, le calme règne partout ailleurs.
Logements : il y a maintenant des hôtels et guesthouses partout et à tous les prix mais j'avoue que j'ai un faible pour les établissements de Khem Khong Road qui surplombent le Mékong parce qu'en général, on peut y prendre son petit déjeuner ou une bonne bière bien fraîche en profitant d'une superbe vue sur le fleuve; ou alors pour ceux qui se trouvent près du Wat Xieng Mouane parce que ce quartier est paisible tout en étant très central.
Visites : les temples, bien sûr puisqu'ils ont permis à Luang Prabang d'être classée au Patrimoine Mondial de l'Unesco. Non seulement ils sont magnifiques mais ils ont tous un charme bien particulier qui fait qu'on ne se lasse pas de les visiter. L'enceinte du Wat Xieng Thong est extraordinaire mais j'aime aussi beaucoup le Wat Souvannakhiri juste en face et, un peu plus loin, le Wat Xien Mouane/Wat Choumkhong, son jardin et son accès, via des escaliers bien cachés au fond du monastère, à une jolie ruelle où l'on découvre avec ravissement une ancienne maison princière, le Heuan Chan Heritage Compound, avec un petit restaurant très abordable où l'on peut grignoter le midi en écoutant le chant des oiseaux et le bruit de l'eau, un salon de massage très agréable, Khmu Spa House, et une belle boutique d'artisanat.
L'enceinte du Palais Royal est à voir également : moins somptueuse qu'à Bangkok mais avec un charme un peu désuet et un très beau temple, le Wat Mai (penser à vérifier sil y a des danses le soir car le spectacle n'a pas lieu tous les jours). En face de l'entrée principale se trouve un escalier qui permet de grimper au Mont Phousi pour voir la ville depuis les hauteurs et le coucher du soleil - là par contre, c'est une bousculade épouvantable lorsque le soleil se cache pour prendre la meilleure photo, plutôt éprouvant....C'est finalement plus agréable de voir le coucher du soleil en prenant un verre dans l'un des nombreux bars qui surplombent le Mékong !
Le marché de nuit est très animé mais un peu décevant car la grande majorité des articles a visiblement été fabriquée en série en Chine ou en Inde ( idem d'ailleurs dans la plupart des magasins du centre ou alors c'est cher)....Par contre, pour dîner il y a plein de petits restaurants de rue très appétissants et très typiques, notamment sur l'un des côtés de l'hôtel Villa Merry Laos (un grand bâtiment blanc à volets bleus sur Phousi Road). C'est d'ailleurs assez sympa de prendre un pot à la terrasse sur rue de l'hôtel pour observer l'animation qui règne. Le Coconut Garden (sur la rue principale avec les lanternes dans le palmier) offre un excellent rapport rapport qualité prix mais il faut absolument réserver pour y dîner - plutôt au 1er étage sur jardin et le bar "Tangor" (toujours sur la rue principale près de l'énorme bouguainvillée rose) est très agréable aussi. Dans un autre quartier, sur Kounxoau Road, avec ses charmantes maisons coloniales, le bar "Popolo" est chouette aussi. Au pied du Mont Phousi, de l'autre côté de la colline par rapport au Palais Royal, il y a quelques bars sympas dont l'Eden Garden et quelques chouettes boutiques d'artisanat.
Pour déjeuner, un peu plus cher mais dans un endroit absolument magique, à la croisée du Mékong et de la rivière Nam Khan, le restaurant du grand hôtel Mekong River View ou alors dans l'un des nombreux petits restaurants qui surplombent la rivière tel que le Rosella Fusion.
Excursions : je n'avais pas eu le temps d'aller aux grottes de Pak-Ou lors de mon premier séjour mais j'ai trouvé cette excursion à 25 usd/personne déjeuner compris très agréable sur le "Nava Mékong". La ballade sur le fleuve est sympa, le stop dans un petit village pour voir la fabrication de riz et les tissus bof (quoiqu'après les temples raffinés de Luang Prabang, le temple très kitsch dans le village permet de faire quelques belles photos dans un registre différent) et les grottes sont étonnantes.
Idem, lors de mon précédent séjour, je n'étais pas allée au Tad Sae Waterfalls mais j'ai beaucoup aimé cet endroit à 20 minutes à peine de tuk-tuk de la ville (20 usd par personne à 2 pour la journée) et auquel on accède après un court trajet en bateau sur la rivière. La ballade dans la forêt le long des chutes est très agréable et, au retour, le temple dans le village est bien kitsch aussi. Et, pour ceux qui aiment, il y a possibilité de ballades à dos d'éléphant.
Autres : dans le centre, j'ai bien aimé le centre culturel lao-allemand (Kamfanh Palace, une ancienne maison princière avec un grand jardin qu'un vieil allemand essaie de maintenir à flot) mais j'ai été déçue par le centre culturel français : c'est une jolie maison coloniale où Pierre Desproges a vécu mais y être accueillie par une anglaise, c'est...un peu décevant et il n'y a vraiment pas grand chose à voir à l'intérieur.
Enfin, il y a de nombreux bureaux de change où le taux est pratiquement identique; j'ai opté pour celui de la guesthouse Mekong SSen, au-dessus du Mékong car Sou, la jeune gérante très dynamique, expose de jolis bijoux en argent et commercialise les croisières sur le Nava Mekong au même prix que partout ailleurs (le bateau part du quai juste en bas de chez elle pour les grottes de Pak-Ou à 10h du matin).
En conclusion, ce séjour à Luang Prabang m'a à nouveau enchanté et cette petite ville, tout comme Antigua au Guatemala, est décidément très attachante. Je prévois d'ailleurs d'y revenir bientôt et d'en profiter pour visiter tout le Laos.
via 90
Merci Marie pour ce sympathique retour.
Très cordialement.
La musique est le seul plaisir sensuel sans vice.
joël
joël
mais j'ai été déçue par le centre culturel français : c'est une jolie maison coloniale où Pierre Desproges a vécu mais y être accueillie par une anglaise, c'est...un peu décevant et il n'y a vraiment pas grand chose à voir à l'intérieur.
Je me marre 🙂🙂 ; typiquement français toussa .Je suis français mais j'ai parfois honte de l'avouer quand je vois ce genre de comportement de la part de ceux qui nous représentent.
En 2002 j’étais à Pékin; 14 juillet, raout à l'Ambassade de France ; j'y vais avec quelques français rencontrés . Pour entrer fallait montrer patte blanche ( passeport français), les belges, les québécois, les suisses , dehors, vous êtes de langue française mais vous n’êtes pas français ..😠
Mezalor que faisaient là ces serveurs chinois ne parlant pas un seul mot de français ? 🤪
Ils auraient quand même pu aller en chercher au Lycée français ou dans une Université ;
Idem à Khon Kaen il y a quelques années; à l'occasion d'une réunion organisée par l'Ambassadeur de France de l’époque, , ça se passait a l’hôtel Le Glacier , super bonne bouffe avec des fromages et des vins français ; et des serveurs et serveuses thaïlandais ne parlant pas un seul mot de notre belle langue ... Pourtant des jeunes thaïlandais parlant le français, j'en connais ; une jeune femme qui habite et travaille à Phangkhon , petite ville très dynamique entre Sawang et Sakon Nakhon ; 26 ans et diplômée de l’Université de Aix en Provence . et même des moins jeunes; par exemple un vendeur de VTT à Khon Kaen ( justement ) qui parle parfaitement le français ; il a fait ses études à la Sorbonne à Paris.
Et en plus au Laos, c'est impardonnable, le français est langue officielle avec le laotien bien sûr dans l'administration
Je me marre 🙂🙂 ; typiquement français toussa .Je suis français mais j'ai parfois honte de l'avouer quand je vois ce genre de comportement de la part de ceux qui nous représentent.
En 2002 j’étais à Pékin; 14 juillet, raout à l'Ambassade de France ; j'y vais avec quelques français rencontrés . Pour entrer fallait montrer patte blanche ( passeport français), les belges, les québécois, les suisses , dehors, vous êtes de langue française mais vous n’êtes pas français ..😠
Mezalor que faisaient là ces serveurs chinois ne parlant pas un seul mot de français ? 🤪
Ils auraient quand même pu aller en chercher au Lycée français ou dans une Université ;
Idem à Khon Kaen il y a quelques années; à l'occasion d'une réunion organisée par l'Ambassadeur de France de l’époque, , ça se passait a l’hôtel Le Glacier , super bonne bouffe avec des fromages et des vins français ; et des serveurs et serveuses thaïlandais ne parlant pas un seul mot de notre belle langue ... Pourtant des jeunes thaïlandais parlant le français, j'en connais ; une jeune femme qui habite et travaille à Phangkhon , petite ville très dynamique entre Sawang et Sakon Nakhon ; 26 ans et diplômée de l’Université de Aix en Provence . et même des moins jeunes; par exemple un vendeur de VTT à Khon Kaen ( justement ) qui parle parfaitement le français ; il a fait ses études à la Sorbonne à Paris.
Et en plus au Laos, c'est impardonnable, le français est langue officielle avec le laotien bien sûr dans l'administration
Bonjour Michel,
C'est tout simplement incroyable...😠
C'est tout simplement incroyable...😠
La musique est le seul plaisir sensuel sans vice.
joël
joël
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My trip’s coming up, and I’m having a bit of trouble with three bus/minivan routes. Usually, I find everything at this time of year, but this time—yikes!
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Thanks for any tips—I’m stuck!
Hi there,
we’ll be in Mai Chau in June and we’re thinking of heading to Sapa, but first spending a few days in Bac Ha to do some hiking and explore the area.
Is this a good idea for those who’ve been there?
How do you get there?
Thanks for your feedback.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
Hi everyone. As I’m planning my trip for next winter, I’m looking for hotel suggestions in Camotes, Bantayan, Malapascua, Bohol, and Siquijor. The ones I had in mind seem to be fully booked (unless it’s too early?). For those familiar with the area, is it easy to find accommodations on the spot in January/February? I’m specifically looking for hotels with a pool, beachfront, air conditioning, and easy scooter rental nearby. Thanks for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m planning an itinerary and would love some feedback on whether it’s doable and if the number of days per destination is enough—or too much. I was also debating whether to add an extra night on an island or spend an extra night in Kampot to visit Kep or Battambang.
March 23: Arrival in Phnom Penh in the morning March 24: Phnom Penh March 25: Phnom Penh March 26: Depart for Kampot March 27: Kampot March 28: Depart for Battambang March 29: Battambang March 30: Tonlé SAP to Siem Reap March 31: Siem Reap April 1: Siem Reap April 2: Siem Reap April 3: Siem Reap April 4: Siem Reap April 5: Departure
Thanks for any suggestions or help!
March 23: Arrival in Phnom Penh in the morning March 24: Phnom Penh March 25: Phnom Penh March 26: Depart for Kampot March 27: Kampot March 28: Depart for Battambang March 29: Battambang March 30: Tonlé SAP to Siem Reap March 31: Siem Reap April 1: Siem Reap April 2: Siem Reap April 3: Siem Reap April 4: Siem Reap April 5: Departure
Thanks for any suggestions or help!
Hi there,
Yesterday in the Thailand section, 100% of the new threads were just about beach destinations 😕...
So here’s the counterattack in the form of this photo thread, dedicated solely to the countryside: the locals, their livestock, fields, farms, rice paddies, small rivers, and agricultural machinery. If you’ve got any pictures that fit these categories, feel free to add them!
Comments welcome.
For each photo, I’ll (or you can) indicate the area where it was taken.
Kanchanaburi:
Kanchanaburi:
Sri Chiangmai:
Soppong:
Tha Wang Pha:
Kanchanaburi:

Kanchanaburi:

Sri Chiangmai:

Soppong:

Tha Wang Pha:

🙂 Hi everyone!
Hope you're all doing well! It's been a while since I last traveled, but I'm finally heading out again soon!
For those familiar with SOUTHEAST ASIA, I'm planning to leave in mid-June (with the trip ending at the latest in November), and I don’t have a precise idea of exact places or itineraries yet. The thing is, this period is usually the rainy season...
Any advice? I was thinking of Malaysia or Indonesia, like Sulawesi, for example (all countries and islands in Southeast Asia interest me except Bali).
Any recommendations? I’m doing my research online, but if anyone here has the time and knowledge, I’d love to hear from you.
Thanks everyone, take care and stay happy! ❤️
Hope you're all doing well! It's been a while since I last traveled, but I'm finally heading out again soon!
For those familiar with SOUTHEAST ASIA, I'm planning to leave in mid-June (with the trip ending at the latest in November), and I don’t have a precise idea of exact places or itineraries yet. The thing is, this period is usually the rainy season...
Any advice? I was thinking of Malaysia or Indonesia, like Sulawesi, for example (all countries and islands in Southeast Asia interest me except Bali).
Any recommendations? I’m doing my research online, but if anyone here has the time and knowledge, I’d love to hear from you.
Thanks everyone, take care and stay happy! ❤️
Hi there,
My partner and I are planning a trip to Indonesia in September-October 2026. It’ll be our first time in Asia, and we’re thinking of hitting the classic spots in East Java and Bali, then wrapping up with a cruise around Komodo for some snorkeling/diving. Here’s a rough draft of our itinerary—I’m wondering if it’s doable.
20/09: Flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, arrive around noon, afternoon/evening and overnight in Yogyakarta. 21/09: Borobudur 22/09: Prambanan 23/09: Travel to Bromo (Cemoro Lawang) 24/09: Bromo 25/09: Kawa Ijen 26/09: Travel to Bali, overnight in Pemuteran 27/09: Excursion to Pulau Melujan, overnight in Pemuteran 28/09: Travel to Munduk, overnight in Munduk 29/09: Explore Munduk and surroundings, overnight in Munduk 30/09: Explore Munduk and surroundings, overnight in Munduk 01/10: Route to Ubud (via Pura Ulu Danau Bratan, Jatiluwih?), overnight in Ubud 02/10: Explore Ubud and surroundings, overnight in Ubud 03/10: Explore Ubud and surroundings, overnight in Ubud 04/10: Travel to Denpasar, flight to Labuan Bajo, overnight in Labuan Bajo 05/10: Komodo cruise 06/10: Komodo cruise 07/10: Komodo cruise, flight to Denpasar in the late afternoon/evening or overnight in Labuan Bajo. 08/10: Flight to Denpasar (if not taken the day before), afternoon in Jimbaran, overnight near Denpasar 09/10: 10:00 AM flight Denpasar - SIN, overnight in Singapore 10/10: Flight SIN-YQB
Thanks for your thoughts—and for your time!
My partner and I are planning a trip to Indonesia in September-October 2026. It’ll be our first time in Asia, and we’re thinking of hitting the classic spots in East Java and Bali, then wrapping up with a cruise around Komodo for some snorkeling/diving. Here’s a rough draft of our itinerary—I’m wondering if it’s doable.
20/09: Flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, arrive around noon, afternoon/evening and overnight in Yogyakarta. 21/09: Borobudur 22/09: Prambanan 23/09: Travel to Bromo (Cemoro Lawang) 24/09: Bromo 25/09: Kawa Ijen 26/09: Travel to Bali, overnight in Pemuteran 27/09: Excursion to Pulau Melujan, overnight in Pemuteran 28/09: Travel to Munduk, overnight in Munduk 29/09: Explore Munduk and surroundings, overnight in Munduk 30/09: Explore Munduk and surroundings, overnight in Munduk 01/10: Route to Ubud (via Pura Ulu Danau Bratan, Jatiluwih?), overnight in Ubud 02/10: Explore Ubud and surroundings, overnight in Ubud 03/10: Explore Ubud and surroundings, overnight in Ubud 04/10: Travel to Denpasar, flight to Labuan Bajo, overnight in Labuan Bajo 05/10: Komodo cruise 06/10: Komodo cruise 07/10: Komodo cruise, flight to Denpasar in the late afternoon/evening or overnight in Labuan Bajo. 08/10: Flight to Denpasar (if not taken the day before), afternoon in Jimbaran, overnight near Denpasar 09/10: 10:00 AM flight Denpasar - SIN, overnight in Singapore 10/10: Flight SIN-YQB
Thanks for your thoughts—and for your time!
Hi everyone,
My girlfriend and I booked our tickets with Saudia Airlines for a trip to Thailand this summer, from July 5th to August 3rd. Given the geopolitical situation in the Middle East, we’re keeping a close eye on the news.
I was wondering if anyone here is in the same situation as us?
• Have you heard anything about possible mass cancellations or if the airline is still maintaining its routes to Asia?
• Are there any travelers who’ve recently returned who could tell us if air corridors have been changed (longer flight times)?
The idea is to know what to expect so we can prepare as best as possible. Thanks for your replies! !
Hi everyone,
Thanks for all your contributions on the forum—they’ve really helped me plan my trip. There are four of us friends heading to Sulawesi for 20 days. Based on all your advice, I’ve put together the following itinerary:
July 30: Makassar – sightseeing July 31: Makassar – sightseeing + overnight bus to Rantepao August 1–7: Tana Toraja with a guide August 7: Tana Toraja to Tentena + visit Tentena August 8: Early departure with a private driver to Ampana, then ferry to the Togian Islands August 9–15: Togian Islands (2 different resorts) August 15: Depart Togian Islands for Luwuk August 16: Flight Luwuk to Makassar August 17: Rammang Rammang August 18: Stroll in Makassar, then return home
Overall, what do you think?
I also have a question about the connection between Tentena and the Togian Islands: Is it doable to leave early in the morning as planned and still be sure not to miss the ferry?
Thanks in advance for your feedback! :)
Thanks for all your contributions on the forum—they’ve really helped me plan my trip. There are four of us friends heading to Sulawesi for 20 days. Based on all your advice, I’ve put together the following itinerary:
July 30: Makassar – sightseeing July 31: Makassar – sightseeing + overnight bus to Rantepao August 1–7: Tana Toraja with a guide August 7: Tana Toraja to Tentena + visit Tentena August 8: Early departure with a private driver to Ampana, then ferry to the Togian Islands August 9–15: Togian Islands (2 different resorts) August 15: Depart Togian Islands for Luwuk August 16: Flight Luwuk to Makassar August 17: Rammang Rammang August 18: Stroll in Makassar, then return home
Overall, what do you think?
I also have a question about the connection between Tentena and the Togian Islands: Is it doable to leave early in the morning as planned and still be sure not to miss the ferry?
Thanks in advance for your feedback! :)
Hi everyone,
I’m currently working on a 30-day itinerary for May/June 2027.
10 days in eastern Java (Malang, Bromo, waterfalls, Meru Beriti Park, Banyuwangi, and Ijen), a short transit in Ubud for a few days, then Flores before heading back to Jakarta.
We’ll spend 15 days in Flores (the classic route: Moni, Bajawa, Riung, Ruteng, ending in Labuan Bajo).
I’d love some firsthand feedback on flights to Maumere or Ende from Bali Denpasar. I know there are no direct routes and that you have to connect through Labuan Bajo or Timor (I think), which isn’t an issue in itself.
But I’ve read here and there that flights to these destinations can be delayed—or worse, canceled—and that it’s better to fly in and out of Labuan Bajo, which isn’t exactly ideal...
Thanks for any tips or experiences you can share!





