Templestay in South Korea

Hi Marie,

I’ve never stayed at one, but I’ve often seen them while visiting temples. I’ve chatted in English with monks several times, and the conversations were really interesting. To make the most of your stay, being able to talk with the monks seems like a big plus—it’s way better than relying on a translator.

To make the most of the stay, I think being able to chat with the monks is a real plus

If I stay in a temple, I definitely think it’s more interesting if you can exchange with the monks.

Here’s an article from today’s Franceinfo about a robot that was just officially ordained as a monk in South Korea to inspire vocations and attract new followers—I wonder if it’s a polyglot robot.... https://www.franceinfo.fr/replay-radio/bientot-chez-vous/en-coree-du-sud-un-robot-est-ordonne-moine-pour-susciter-des-vocations-et-attirer-de-nouveaux-fideles_7967039.html

What to say? 🤔 If it can inspire some vocations, we’ll say you’ve got to live with the times 😜

You’ll definitely come across robots during your trip. There are some at Incheon Airport, and restaurants use them to serve dishes at your table. There are also coffee vending machines that shake up our usual habits.





And then there are the staff-free hotels 🤔 No robots here, but it’s fast and efficient. Just don’t have any questions to ask 😜

I don’t know about restaurants with robots serving the dishes—I’ll have to try that!

On the other hand, I did see coffee vending machines with robots on one of the platforms at Warsaw train station, but I didn’t see them in action.

Otherwise, for translations (written or spoken), do you use Google Translate? In your photos, I see it’s in English, but I’ve read that it’s not the same everywhere.

I don’t know any restaurants with robots serving the dishes—I’ll have to try one.

This is really taking off, and I recently stumbled upon one in Australia by chance.

Robot Server Cafe Primo Victor Harbor #southaustralia - YouTube

On the other hand, I saw coffee vending machines with robots on one of the platforms at Warsaw train station, but I didn’t see them in action.

I have a video of someone using one, but to respect their privacy, I won’t post it.

Otherwise, for translations (written or spoken), do you use Google Translate? In your photos, I see it’s in English, but I’ve read that it’s not the same everywhere.

Yes, I use Google Translate. It’s especially useful in some restaurants where the menu is displayed on a big wall. In certain regions, particularly in the Southwest where there are few Western tourists, it’s essential. Even in some hotels, the staff struggled to speak three words of English. You can imagine what my first trip was like back in 1998 😅 I had ordered a Lonely Planet in English for the prep, and it had useful translations 😄

Hi there, I’ve done two Temple stay experiences. The first one included an afternoon, a night, and a morning. It was great. Meals were in the monks’ dining hall. The night was punctuated by prayers and ceremonies—very moving. Perfect because the tourists had left. The second stay was over two days with workshops (tea ceremony, cooking, etc.). Explanations were given in English by a Korean participant. Instructive but less moving. Enriching experiences overall. I highly recommend them. Anne Marie

my first trip in 1998

You’ve been going to South Korea regularly for almost 30 years! I think there are a lot of Japan enthusiasts, but it seems like there are fewer for Korea. What draws you to South Korea?

I was hesitating between Japan and Korea, and I admit people recommended Japan more. What made me decide in favor of Korea was that, for now, it doesn’t seem to have as many tourists as Japan.

I did two Temple stay trips.

Enriching experiences. I highly recommend.

Hello,

Thanks so much for your feedback. On paper, the experience sounds interesting, and you’ve confirmed it—I’ll definitely try to do it.

Hello Marie,

It’s been almost 30 years since you’ve been going to South Korea regularly! I feel like there are a lot of Japan enthusiasts, but fewer for Korea—what draws you to South Korea?

First off, I’ll clarify that I’m not a K-pop fan, even though I enjoy listening to it from time to time, and I’ve never watched a K-drama.

Impressions are always personal and subjective. Yours will be really interesting when you get back.

What I love:

The kindness of Koreans Their culture The change of scenery The cleanliness The safety How easy it is to travel, whether by renting a car (which I now do on every trip) or using public transport The food, even though I’m not a fan of kimchi or spicy dishes Drinking soju or somaek while chatting with the table next to you Let’s be honest—the cost of living there is very affordable How easy it is to book a hotel last-minute if plans change The ability to improvise once you’re there The beauty of the landscapes The countless hikes in national and provincial parks The country isn’t very big, and distances are short Domestic flights are very affordable, especially to Jeju Cherry blossom season

The downsides:

The climate leaves few options if you want to avoid the cold, rain, intense heat, and typhoon risks. The country is small, and in summary, you can get a good overview by spending 1 week to 10 days in Seoul and the surrounding area, 3 weeks on the East and Southeast coasts, another 3 weeks on the West and Southwest coasts, and 2 weeks in Jeju. So, about 2.5 months total. Not enough for a dozen or twenty trips like in some other countries.

But since I feel so at home in South Korea and I’m curious to discover new spots, I’ve already identified areas to explore on my next trips 🤓

I was hesitating between Japan and Korea, and I admit people recommended Japan more. What made me decide on Korea was that it seems there aren’t as many tourists as in Japan right now.

I discovered South Korea and Japan during the same trip in 1998. Originally, Japan was the main goal. But back then, it was much more expensive than South Korea. So, I started exploring the region with 2 weeks in each. Tourism was so underdeveloped that locals spoke to me in Japanese and Korean because they assumed I had to be an expat. And indeed, the very few foreigners I met were working there. In Seoul—and even more so in small towns—locals wanted to take photos with me. In shops, they often offered me tea and tried to communicate.

Luck also played a part because France had just won its first FIFA World Cup, and the 2002 World Cup was set to take place in those two countries. Thanks to Zidane, who served as my calling card, I had unforgettable encounters and exchanges. For example, one day while waiting for the bus at Seoraksan Park, a police car stopped and asked me in English, "Where are you going?" ==) Sokcho ==) "Okay, I’ll take you." ==) Are you sure? ==) "There’s nothing to do here—it’s so safe that at least I’ll feel useful." And off I went with the police officer, sirens blaring, chatting the whole short trip (about a dozen kilometers). Those 4 weeks were unforgettable, and for years, I didn’t want to go back for fear of being disappointed.

Since then, I’ve returned to Japan twice. And indeed, I was surprised by the crowds and shocked by the disrespectful behavior of some Western and Chinese tourists. In Kyoto, they were in "safari mode," chasing geishas and maikos through the streets 😤 Otherwise, I love Tokyo—it’s a fascinating city. Biking around Lake Kawaguchiko while admiring Mount Fuji, cherry blossom season is amazing, and I like Osaka. Hiroshima moved me deeply, just like the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, Alcatraz Prison in San Francisco, Pearl Harbor in Hawaii, Ground Zero in New York, and Tuol Sleng in Phnom Penh, Cambodia 😢

I’m planning 🤓 to go back to Japan to explore the Okinawa archipelago, Kyushu, and Hokkaido, dedicating one trip to each region.

Hi there,

Thanks Jérôme for this really comprehensive take on Korea!

I don’t think I’ll be disappointed since I have no point of comparison—it’ll be my first trip to Asia. I just hope the weather won’t be too disastrous...

The country is small, but there’s still plenty to do. I bought some travel guides, and they’re all pretty thick.

I’ve started looking into Seoul, and there’s so much that interests me. I could easily spend two weeks there! I love art, and I’ve seen there are several interesting museums for discovering Korean painting, photography, or design. The National Museum of Korea and the War Memorial of Korea are huge and can’t be visited in a single day. Then there are the temples, shrines, different neighborhoods, markets, etc...

Even in two months, I won’t see everything. I still don’t know which part of the country I’ll skip.

For restaurants, I hope I’ll manage to figure out what’s on my plate... Right now, I’m reading the blog of someone in China, and she doesn’t always know what she’s eating.

Anyway, I’ll post a recap when I get back in September, and I might have more questions before my departure.

Hello Marie,

I think I won’t be disappointed since I have no point of comparison—this will be my first trip to Asia. I just hope the weather won’t be too catastrophic....

In June and July, you know it’s humid with more or less rain depending on the year. August is drier but still very hot with high humidity. Get ready to sweat, but there’s air conditioning everywhere.

The country is small, but there’s still plenty to do. I bought some travel guides, and they’re all pretty thick.

And there are quite a few things to discover that aren’t in the guides. It’s also great to improvise and go where the wind takes you. There are lots of islands in the southwest near Mokpo (I really love this area, off the beaten path for Westerners) and the entire southern part down to Busan. Namhae, in particular, is really nice.

I’ve started looking into Seoul, and there’s so much that interests me—I could stay there for two weeks. I love art, and I’ve seen there are several interesting museums for discovering Korean painting, photography, or design. The National Museum of Korea and the War Memorial of Korea are huge and can’t be visited in a single day. Then there are the temples, shrines, different neighborhoods, markets, etc.

You’re going to love it 👍

Even in two months, I won’t see everything. I still don’t know which part of the country I’ll skip.

You just need to make a list of the cities and sites that attract you. No plan is a good plan 😄

For restaurants, I hope I’ll be able to tell what’s on my plate... Right now, I’m reading a blog by someone in China, and she doesn’t always know what she’s eating.

No surprise in China 😄 I have memories and photos 😭

It’s not always easy in South Korea either. Watch out for spices if you’re sensitive. Some restaurants only serve offal. I like eating at markets—you make discoveries, it’s friendly, and it’s affordable.

Anyway, I’ll write a report when I get back in September, and I might have more questions before I leave.

Don’t hesitate if you need anything.

Hello,

I’m thinking of doing a loop from Seoul to Jeonju, then down south to Busan, and then heading back up to Gyeongju, Andong, and finally either going to Sokcho or returning to Seoul—but this seems really ambitious.

I’m not sure yet how long I’ll stay in each place. I’ve highlighted a lot of temples, but I don’t think I’ll visit all of them.

In travel guides, they mention Jeolla (where Mokpo, which you mentioned, is located) and Chungcheongdo as less touristy destinations. I’d missed Namhae—thanks for the tip!

I’m wondering about the appeal of going to Jeju Island. Is it a paradise, or is it more like an amusement park? It’s become one of South Korea’s "must-sees," and everyone goes there...

I think I’ll actually end up visiting places that aren’t in the travel guides, based on tips I pick up here and there. Earlier, someone mentioned robots—I read that on May 5th, Seoul inaugurated the Galaxy Robot Park, the world’s first robot-themed park. Even though I’m not a fan of robots or theme parks, I kind of want to go because I think it’s a great representation of South Korea’s cutting-edge technology.

As for restaurants, I read in the guides that some still serve bosintang, a soup I’d never heard of and definitely don’t want to try...

Hello,

I’m thinking of doing a loop from Seoul to Jeonju, the south, Busan, then heading back up to Gyeongju, Andong, and finally either going to Sokcho or returning to Seoul—but that seems really ambitious.

You’re going for two months, right? That’s perfect.

Near Jeonju, Maisan Park (great walks) is really nice, especially the Tapsa Temple. In Gyeongju, you can rent a bike since the city isn’t too big. The surrounding countryside with the rice fields is gorgeous. Andong can be explored in a day. You can spend the day in Hahoe nearby. Sokcho is nice and the gateway to Seoraksan National Park, where you can hike if you like. Check if it’s accessible by bus, but in the north, there’s the Goseong DMZ (my profile photo). If you go, don’t forget your passport—it’s mandatory.

DMZ museum

I’m not sure yet how long I’ll stay in each place. I’ve highlighted a lot of temples, but I don’t think I’ll visit them all.

You’ll need to pick and choose to avoid temple overload.

In travel guides, they list Jeolla (where Mokpo is, which you mentioned) and Chungcheongdo as less touristy destinations.

Haven’t seen those temples. In Mokpo, you can take a day trip to Hongdo and Heuksando islands or obviously stay overnight. You buy the boat ticket just before departure and the same for the return.

Namhae had slipped my mind—thanks for the tip!

This island is bigger, and I really like it. There’s an episode about Namhae here:

Watch *The Delicious Biker* | Official Netflix Site

I’m wondering if Jeju Island is worth it—is it a paradise or an amusement park? It’s become one of Korea’s "must-sees," and everyone goes...

Jeju Island is huge and requires some time, even more if you’re not renting a car. Jeju City can be visited quickly and is mainly the gateway. I find the western part the least interesting. The Osulloc Tea Museum is a perfect example—I don’t like it. Crowded, buses everywhere, nothing interesting to learn, and a massive shop. In the center, Hallasan National Park has great hikes, the southern coast is lovely, and Seogwipo is a good base. The northern coast can be seen quickly, and the east has plenty to do with Ilchulbong and Udo Island, where you can also stay (bike rentals available). I like Jeju, and spending a week to ten days there lets you disconnect from the big cities. There are flights from all major cities.

I think I’ll actually go to places not in travel guides, based on tips I pick up here and there. Earlier, someone mentioned robots—I read that on May 5th, Seoul opened Galaxy Robot Park, the world’s first robot-themed park. Even though I’m not into robots or theme parks, I want to go because I think it’s a great representation of South Korea’s cutting-edge technology.

Your trip length allows for it.

As for restaurants, I read in guides that some still serve bosintang, a soup I didn’t know existed and don’t want to try...

https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2024/01/09/en-coree-du-sud-le-parlement-interdit-le-commerce-de-la-viande-de-chien_6209821_3210.html

Thanks for all these details, especially about Jeju.

For the DMZ, I highlighted Munsan with Imjingak and the Odusan Unification Observatory, and for Panmunjom, the Petit Futé guide says that visits to the JSA and Panmunjom have been suspended since 2023 (I haven’t checked online), so only Munsan is left.

For hikes and nature, it’ll all depend on the weather—especially the rain...

Thanks again for your tips!

The JSA is still inaccessible at the moment.