Ben oualà !
Tout arrive !
Un très vieux projet va voir le jour ... dans quelques jours.
Rouler de la pointe sud jusqu' au Ladakh. Je découvre l'Inde et ses multiples facettes depuis plus de 35 ans, mais ce Voyage à vélo et seul garde encore quelques interrogations.
Les principales sont liées au camping sauvage ou en demandant ( perception de cette forme de voyage !? )? La route ?
Les chiens ? La santé générale ...
Donc toute forme de conseil lié à un vécu de ce type sera le bienvenu.
Itinéraire à privilégier, voire à rejeter clairement ! Partir très tôt le matin !
Zones, villages, rencontres.. fabuleux !
Je pense être au bénéfice d'un "gros" bagage de voyageur, je parle un peu l'hindi, pas douillet, rencontres faciles, mange de tout, suis un jeune retraité, organisé mais un peu "fou" !!! Et cette forme de Vie ... est nouvelle !
Une super adresse pour cure ayurvédique sérieuse serait OK aussi...
de Kanyakumari à Leh, la route est tres différente.
dans le sud, pas de pb particulier pour rouler à vélo sauf qu'il faut rouler à gauche et faire toujours attention à tout.
pour le camping, c'est variable mais je pense qu'il vaut mieux demander un endroit où poser sa tente.
les choses se corsent à partir de Manali en direction de Leh, dur, dur.
d'ailleurs est ce que la route sera ouverte dans 4 mois ?
Salut,
le lien fourni est non seulement "très instructif", mais j'ose le compliment de "très bien rédigé" !!!ouahh!
Quant au rickshaw "tuné", j'imagine qu'il a plus d'une fois servi de passeport !
Et c'est bien cet aspect-là du voyage qui m'intéresse le plus : comment rentrer en communication, comment me frotter au jour le jour à cette foisonnante Vie indienne, sans pour autant souffrir de la promiscuité, de la curiosité des Indiens, sentiments trop souvent présentés durement dans les discussions !
Je n'ai pas encore lu la totalité de votre parcours cyclo, mais ce que j'y ai vu est un encouragement !
Merci !
PS.: j'ai été surpris des trajets sur des NH ? qu'en est-il vraiment du rapport poids lourds-cyclistes ? Et les traversées de villes ?
Et le carte ? je suis sans GPS, ni google ...
Merci de ta réponse !
y'a-t-il des cyclos qui sont passés par Srinagar-Leh, puis Leh-Manali ( dans ce sens-là!!) au mois de mai ?
Avant les camions et bus ?
Est-ce "roulable" ou folie pure ?
L'un de ces tronçons est-il soumis à autorisation spéciale ?
j'ai fais avec ma femme le tronçon Manali Leh, il y a 10 ans
à l'époque la route n'était ouverte que du 15 juin au 15 septembre
pas d'autorisation spéciale pour ce tronçon mais si tu veux aller au Kardung La, Leh Srinagar ou vers les Dah oui
attention au mal des montagnes
sur Manali Leh, 4 cols a 5000 mètres
dans la montée, tu vas pratiquement aussi vite que les camions et leurs fumées
sur la route, tu trouves régulièrement de quoi te ravitailler ou dormir.
3 voyages au Ladakh et dans la région du Spiti dont 2 à vélo, j'adore toujours autant, c'est vraiment un de mes coups de coeur !
J'avais commencé à faire un topo sur la route Shimla - Keylong - Leh mais ça commence à dater : http://himalayavelo.blogspot.fr (faut regarder les pages de juillet et août 2008). Pour les distances, c'est toujours d'actualité (mais pas pour les emplacements des dabhas ni l'état des pistes...).
Sinon, blog Ladakh à vélo été 2009 pour avoir des idées de trucs à faire à vélo dans le coin. Et d'autres photos et cartes ici.
D'après des retours que j'ai pu avoir de cyclos qui se sont promenés dans la région l'été dernier, la route est maintenant pas mal goudronnée sur une grande partie entre Manali et Leh, notamment pour la traversée des Morey Plains avant le Taglang La.
Mon top 3 des trucs les plus chouettes :
- Spiti Valley,
- route Tso Khar - Tso Moriri,
- boucle qu'on a faite vers le lac Pangong Tso et la Nubra Valley via le Wari La.
Depuis, il y a sûrement plein de nouveaux itinéraires possibles car les autorités indiennes ont ouvert la route plus loin, que ce soit le long du Pangong Tso, dans la Nubra et dans la vallée de l'Indus.
Va faire un tour sur le site de Jean-Louis Taillefer, LA référence sur la région : http://ladak.free.fr. Et encore mieux, tu peux acheter son bouquin !
Il y a aussi le bouquin (en anglais) de Laura Stone avec des topos-vélo super détaillés sur la région : Himalaya by bike.
y'a-t-il des cyclos qui sont passés par Srinagar-Leh, puis Leh-Manali ( dans ce sens-là!!) au mois de mai ?
Avant les camions et bus ?
Est-ce "roulable" ou folie pure ?
La route Manali - Leh ouvre rarement avant début juin, et encore, elle peut fermer à tout moment à cause des chutes de neige. La route de Srinagar ouvre en général plus tôt, autour de fin avril, mais tu rouleras entre 2 grands murs de neige ! Si tu prévois de tenter tôt dans la saison, emporte vêtements et sac de couchage chauds + un bon matelas isolant + qqs provisions pour tenir si jamais tu te retrouvais bloqué. Le Kunzum La (entre le Rotang et Kaza dans la Spiti Valley) ouvre assez tard.
L'un de ces tronçons est-il soumis à autorisation spéciale ?
Pas d'autorisation pour Srinagar - Leh ou Manali - Leh. Pour Shimla - Spiti - Leh, il fallait à l'époque un "inner-line permit" qu'on obtient facilement à Rekong Peo (en venant de Shimla) ou à Kaza (en venant du Ladakh). Au Ladakh à proprement parler, il faut (fallait ?) aussi un permis pour les zones frontalières avec la Chine (Nubra, Pangong Tso et même Tso Moriri) mais ça a pu changer (plus besoin de permis pour Tso Moriri aux dernières nouvelles). Pose la question dans le forum Inde.
Namaskar,
me voici de retour de ce périple indien...
Je ne me souviens plus si je t'avais répondu...si oubli...1000 excuses, et j'avais tourné tes infos dans tous les sens..
Je me suis assez peu connecté au monde, autre que le monde réel qui défilait devant moi au rythme du pédalage... donc je redécouvre le forum maintenant.
De même que j'ai tourné dans tous les sens pour atteindre le Ladakh...les 2 entrées fermées...Hiver très rude et longuet...
En quittant Reckong Peo...avalanche de pierres...passage impossible... Kumzum-la fermé...
Il a fallu pas mal improviser, mais l'ensemble du voyage de Trivandrum à Mana ( dernier village indien avant le Tibet, près de Badrinath ) était juste génial.
Bien sûr bcp d'attention sur les routes, mais somme toute parfaitement jouable sans stresser à longueur de journée.
Le couac...ce fut pour les nuits...
La mauvaise presse avec les "agressions-viols" sur étrangères ont refroidi l'accueil d'étranger aussi !
Camping sauvage et/ou sur demande = FLOP.
MAis l'Inde, l'accueil, les gargottes, les sourires et discussions en journée étaient TOP ( quelle utilité de parler un peu l'hindi . )
Bref expérience grandiose, réussie, 4500 km d'Inde, souvenirs multiples ...
Je pars faire la route leh manali en velo au mois de septembre, Je cherche des points de ravitaillement et des endroits ou dormir, a raison de 50km par jour ca…
Nous partons au mois de septembre en couple pour une exploration du Kerala, et une partie du voyage devrait se faire en vélo, parce que je crois que c'est le…
On envisage de partir à 5 personnes en vélo au Ladakh et, au retour, nous souhaitions prendre un vol intérieur entre Leh et Delhi. Est-ce que la procédure à…
Ayant pour projet de faire a velos chandigarh leh par le col de jalori et la fameuse route manali leh je voudrais savoir l avancement de l ouverture des cols…
Bonjour, je vais faire la traversée du canada en vélo, et j'ai une question qui peut paraitre bête, mais quelqu'un pourrait me dire comment il faut emballer un vélo (dans un carton, avec une mention fragile... je sais pas) pour prendre l'avion. Merci d'avance
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share with you the incredible feat my friend José, who’s 72 years old, is currently undertaking. He left Auterive near Toulouse on Monday, May 18, 2026, on his non-electric bike, heading for the North Cape in Norway!
You can follow his route on the link below—he’s currently in Sweden:
https://thierry-thomas.travelmap.net/jose-de-toulouse-a-nord-cap-2026
You can zoom in on the map and click on each stopover town to see the photos
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Hi! I’m planning to visit the Stockholm Archipelago by bike in early April.
Do you know if the boats will be running between the different islands at that time of year? For those who’ve already been, all your tips and recommendations are welcome—accommodation, etc. Also, do you know where I can rent a bike in Stockholm? Thanks so much in advance for your help!
Hello there, pedal-powered Young Boys!
Claudio (still from Faverges)
dreaming about a cycling getaway in Italy from Faverges (train all the way to Turin)
from Turin down to Venice along the Po River and back via the Padana (Alta Italia da attraversare – Northern Italy to cross)
The tricky part is getting from Chioggia to Venice.
I read it’s possible by hopping on a boat from island to island,
but it sounds a bit stressful.
Has anyone already tackled this route?