En pleine préparation d’itinéraire pour une petite virée en Amérique du Sud en fin d’année 2011, je me pose plusieurs questions sur le parcours final. L’itinéraire partira d’Ushuaia et se terminera au Pérou (Lima certainement ou en Equateur si j’en demande encore).
Je vous fais donc partager mes interrogations sur quelques tronçons pour avoir votre avis et vous demande donc de me donner vos idées sur celui-ci. L’idée est que je recherche les routes les plus spectaculaires au niveau des paysages notamment, pas forcément les moins défoncées, ni les plus plates, ni les plus courtes mais vraiment celles qui valent la peine (d’en baver…). Désolé si mes questions semblent naïves mais je ne suis pas encore très calé. ;-(
- De Puerto Natales à El Calafate, à partir de Tapi Aike, je prends la routa 40 ou je fais le détour par Esperanza ?
- De El Chalten à Villa O Higgins, j’imagine que la frontière se passe en bateau ?
- A partir de St Junin de los Andes pour rejoindre Santiago du Chili : que pensez vous de cette partie : est-elle intéressante pour un cycliste ou est-ce raisonnable et moins ennuyeux de prendre le bus à Temuco pour rejoindre Santiago ? D’après ce que j’ai déjà pu lire et si j’opte pour faire cette portion en vélo, je pourrais me diriger vers la route côtière. Peut-être y’a-t-il une autre alternative intéressante, via San Rafael par exemple pour rejoindre Mendoza par exemple ? Grosse question, à savoir si je continue à pédaler ou si je me cale dans le bus, et si c’est la première solution, quelle route je prends ?
- A San Juan, quelle route vous me conseillez pour rejoindre Villa Union : à l’Ouest par San José de Jachal ou à l’Est via San Agustin del valle fertil et le parc Talampaya ?
- A Belen, pour rejoindre Cafayate, je prends la route 40 par Santa Maria ou je passe plus à l’Est par Taffi del Valle
Voilà, j’espère que vous voudrez bien partager vos expériences et m’éclairer quelque peu. Merci par avance à ceux qui prendront le temps de me lire et de me répondre.
Je découvre ton post qui n'a pas eu un grand succès :(
N'étant pas encore partie je ne pourrai pas te dire grand chose (nous partons aussi fin 2011... peut-être se croisera-t-on, on devrait être début décembre à Mendoza et de là partir vers le Sud)
Tu peux déjà trouver quelques indications ici:
http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3366089;page=unread#unread
Va voir aussi le blog de mandolpierre (il en parle dans le post dont je te donne le lien)
Sinon ici: Carte tu trouveras l'itinéraire qu'on prévoit pour le moment (sauf qu'on ira à Iguaçu en vélo)
Le début de l'itinéraire suit des routes et je l'ai tracé en tenant compte d'informations que j'avais reçues sur le forum.
(La fin c'est trop loin, trop flou donc j'ai tracé des grandes lignes juste pour dire on va passer qqpart "dans le coin")
Pour ce qui est de la frontière El Chalten à Villa O higgins, normalement oui, il faut prendre le bateau et faire une partie avec portage des sacoches par un cheval car c'est déjà assez difficile avec le vélo à vide apperement.
De notre côté nous pensons passer la frontière plus au Nord pour éviter le coût des différents ferry... (au niveau du lago general carrera).
Sinon j'ai vu que Enzo et Corinne (cyclocosmos) ont passé la frontière vers Villa O Higgins sans prendre le ferry mais ont assez bien galéré, y a pas de route. Tu peux ptet leur demander des infos si ça t'intéresse.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve (Antoine de Saint Exupéry)
je rentre dune rando sur le gr10.
de calafate a tapi aike oui la 40 cest le plus simple, et vu que cest que de la steppe le detour par esperanza....
de el chalten a o higgins, en principe route jusqua laguna del desierto puis ferry (sil existe) puis sentier pourri sur 10km jusqua chili puis piste jusquau port et autre bateau jusqua puerto o higgins; ce bateau cest une a 2 fois par semaine, faut pas le rater!
perso je propose de suivre la 40 en argentine puis une petite route pour entrer au chiloi vers cochrane;
cyclocosmos a teste un autre col sans ferry, mais sentier tres galere aussi, vois sur leur site 2me voyage en amerique du sud
donc je propose ca, a lenvers :
"Sur
aqui pasar a Chile
CHILE : Trevelin - futaleufu - villa santa lucia - puyuhuapi - cisnes medio - coihaique - cerro castillo - puerto rio tranquilo - puerto bertrand - chile chico -
ARGENTINA : perito moreno - seguir por la pequena ruta paralela a la frontera, que va a unos lagos - bajo caracoles - las horquetas - tres lagos - charles fuhr - rumbo a el calafate - hotel el cerrito - tapi aike - paso a chile cuidase el paso no es indicado, solo es indicado estancia don guillermo -
CHILE : cerro castillo - hacia el norte parque torres del paine ruta 9 - pehoe - administracion - puerto natales - punta arena - ferry hasta porvenir - onaisin - estancia cameron - vicuna
ARGENTINA : rio grande - tolhuin (esquisito boliche de pasteles) - ushuaia"
pour junin de los andes a santiago, soit tu suis la cote chilienne, tres simpa et sportive, a partir du paso pino hachado, ou si tu veux voir des lacs chilien paso du logao tromen,
soit tu continue par largentine par des endroits tres beaux aussi mais tres deserts et venteux
la cote du chili cest ca
Valparaiso – Algarrobo – San Antonio – El Manzano – Peumo – Poblacion – Santa Cruz – Curico;
Curico – La Huerta – Lloca – Constitucion – Chanco – Cauquenes – Quirihue – Concepcion;
Concepcion – Arauco – Lebu – Canete – Traiguen – Nueva Imperial – Temuco – Freire – Nueva Tolten Mariquina – Valdivia;
Valdivia – Hueicolla – La Union – Osorno – Puerto Octay – Ensenada – Petrohue – Cochamo – Puelche – Puerto Montt
les lacs chiliens simpas cest ca
Lonquimay - hacia el tunel, pero dobla a la izquierda - ripio hasta los lagos Galletue y Icalma – Melipeuco – Cunco - lago Colico - laguna San Pedro – Villarica - Pucon - subida por el paso hasta el lago Tromen - regreso a Villarica - Liquan Ray - lago Calafquen - Conaripe – Liquine - cuesta de Aniques - laguna Pelleifa - lago Neltume
la cordillere argentine de san juan puis mendoza a junin cest ca
Centro
San Juan - Talacasto - Calingasta - Barreal - Uspallata - rumbo hacia el paso del cristo redemptor hasta el puente de los incas - regreso a Uspallata - Mendoza por la ruta 52 - lujan de cuyo - tupungato - san carlos - antigua ruta 40 hasta la presa del toro - 25 de mayo - san rafael - el nihuil por el canon del atuel - sosneado - malargue - bardas blancas - ranquil norte - buta ranquil - chos mahal - el cholar - el huecu - loncopue - seguir hacia las lajas, pero doblar a mano derecha hacia el paso pino hachado, luego doblar a mano izquierda por la ruta de ripio hacia paso de Icalma.
apres san juan, tu prend par tafi del valle, sinon cest 250km de steppe depineux sans eau et sans abri
San Juan, Chucuma. San augustin del valle fertil, Talampaya, Nonogosta par la cuesta Miranda, Alpasinche, Belen, Andalgada, Concepcion, Tafi del Valle, Cafayate, Salta, (San Antonio de los Cobres, Tres Morros, Pumamarca, ) Jujuy por la ruta 9
tu trouvera tous les details sur mon site, en espagnol
Merci messieurs pour vos réponses. Je n'ai pas (encore) eu le temps de les traiter car je suis pas mal pris avec mon boulot ces derniers temps mais je vais m'y pencher prochainement. Je ne manquerai pas de vous faire mes remarques si besoin puisque vos commentaires sont généralement très avisés.
Je peux donc te confirmer que si tu veux passer de l'Argentine au Chili après El Chalten, cela vaut vraiment la peine de rebrousser chemin pour remonter la 40 jusqu'au Passo Mayer (mais attention, si c'est beau, les 10 km de No man's land à parcourir sont assez éprouvant - on à mis deux jours). Il faut compter un minimum de trois jours d'autonomie.
bonjour, je viens a l'instant de passer une annonce pour la recherche eventuelle d'un equipier ! effectivement, je souhaite realiser le meme raid que vous en A du S, et de plus aux memes dates ! pour l'heure je viens de boucler le tour du Cambodge en autonomie complete (avec un equipier ), alors , une viree a deux vous parait-il envisageable ? si oui, moi je suis partant, a suivre........... amicalement
Bonjour à tous !
Un peu dans le même cas qu'Haidagwaii, avec un ami, nous préparons pour l'été 2012 un parcours en vélo couché de Santiago du Chili à Cuzco. Nous sommes (entre autre) en train d'établir notre itinéraire et voudrions le faire assez précis puisque nous roulerons pour le Don du Sang et aurons donc quelques contraintes de dates dans les villes principales.
On veut passer de l'autre coté de la cordillère et donc passer par Mendoza, San Juan, Salta pour rejoindre Cuzco mais j'essaie de calculer les durées de parcours et c'est dur dur. Si quelqu'un a ça (et notamment Haidagwaii si tu as complété ton itinéraire), vous nous seriez d'une aide précieuse !!!
Taffi de valle incontournable ;dans le sens que tu as choisi 53 kms de montée.
Tapi Aike n'est pas un village mais une estancia il y a aussi un station service et sutout la vialidad (service des routes )où l'on peut camper à l'abri du vent .De là tu prends la piste en ripio et 73kms plus loin tu rejoins la ruta 40 et l'estancia de El Cerrito ;re vialidad tu peux camper à l'abri
De El Chalten à villa O Higgins il y 2 bateaux + un parcours ou tout le monde utilise les services de chevaux pour porter les bagages.C'est une étape qui coute très cher
et il faut prévoir du temps .Les bateaux ne circulent qu'à la belle saison .Celà est très bien décrit dans le petit futé PATAGONIE;
J'avais pris le bus entre Los Andes et Santiago car le réseau routier n'est pas conçu pour les vélos à ma connaissance
bonjour, bien reçu ton mail, mais pour l'ete 2012 cela sera difficile pour moi, je prefere a partir de fin octobre, la saison est meilleure dans le sud americain, on garde cependant le contact, amicalement
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
