Bonjour à tous !
Je suis en train de finaliser mon itinéraire pour un voyage en Août en Namibie et au Botswana et j'ai quelques questions :
- est-il envisageable de visiter Moremi sur une journée, en selfdrive (nous aurons un 4x4) au départ de Maun ? Quel est l'état des routes en août et est-ce qu'il y a certaines pistes plutôt simples (nous n'avons pas l'habitude de conduire en 4x4 mais nous aurons déjà fait 2 semaines de route entre la Namibie et le Botswana) ? Est-ce qu'il y a un campement facile d'accès à Moremi ?
- Où est- il recommandé de loger à Maun (nous avons un 4x4 avec tente sur le toit) ?
Nous aimerions vraiment visiter Moremi mais nous ne savons pas si c'est raisonnable et faisable de le faire par nous-mêmes et les excursions organisées me semblent très chères (si vous avez des recommandations, je suis preneuse).
Quand on n'a pas la possibilité de loger à l'intérieur de Moremi, les camps les plus proches sont Kaziikini (à environ 30 km de South Gate) et Mbudi Campsite (à environ 12 km de Khwai North Gate).
Personnellement on avait réservé 2 nuits à Mbudi Campsite.
Le premier jour, on est parti de Maun et on est entré dans Moremi par South Gate. On a commencé par le secteur de Black Pool et Xini Lagoon (pas très loin de South Gate) où la faune est abondante. On a pris notre temps, et on s'est rendu compte qu'on ne pourrait pas poursuivre très longtemps vers l’ouest. Alors on a fini par revenir sur nos pas et on a pris la direction de North Gate, secteur où l'on a vu aussi beaucoup d'animaux.
Nuit à Mbudi Campsite (attention, il n'y a que 4 emplacements).
Le second jour, on était à la North Gate dès 6h00. On a réussi à traverser tout Moremi jusqu'au Third Bridge, puis à en revenir dans la journée jusqu'à Mbudi.
Ce serait vraiment dommage de ne pas aller vers cette partie ouest de le réserve. Idéalement, il aurait été préférable de dormir dans les camps à l'intérieur de Moremi (même si Mbudi était très agréable) et de passer au moins une journée supplémentaire dans le parc.
Pour info, nous n'avions aucune expérience de la conduite d'un 4x4 et tout s'est très bien passé. C'est d'après moi bien mieux que les excursions organisées.
Merci pour ce retour d'expérience !
Je vais me renseigner sur le camp Kaziikini.
S'il est complet, est-ce que vous pensez que c'est faisable de visiter le parc depuis Maun à la journée ? Dans quelle zone recommandez-vous d'aller (en termes d'abondance de faune et de facilité à conduire) ?
Cela me rassure de savoir que vous n'avez pas eu de difficultés particulières sur les routes. Notre crainte est d'arriver dans le parc et de se rendre compte que la conduite est vraiment difficile mais je comprends que ce n'est pas le cas ?
Si des excursions à Moremi sont proposées depuis Maun, c'est que c'est faisable. Il faut quand même compter 1h30 à 2h de piste (route goudronnée au début) pour rallier South Gate. Je te dirais bien de partir très tôt de Maun pour être à South Gate à l'ouverture de la barrière (6h du matin ?), mais cela signifierait que tu devrais rouler de nuit, ce qui peut être assez risqué étant donné que beaucoup d'animaux vivent en dehors de la réserve, y compris des éléphants. Pareil pour le retour : il faudrait profiter le plus longtemps possible de Moremi et n'en revenir qu'à la nuit tombée, mais est-ce bien raisonnable... Tu m'auras compris : visiter Moremi à la journée depuis Maun est faisable, mais loin d'être idéal.
Les pistes de Moremi sont en sable profond et donc pas très faciles. Mais il n'y a pas d'inquiétude particulière à avoir : si j'y suis arrivé, tu peux y arriver. Le seul souci est qu'on n'avance pas très vite, mais ce n'est pas le but non plus. C'est surtout pour te signifier que dans l'hypothèse d'une visite à la journée depuis Maun, tu ne pourras pas t'enfoncer très profondément dans la réserve. La zone la plus accessible depuis South Gate est le secteur de Black Pool / Xini Lagoon. J'y ai vu beaucoup d'animaux, mais ce n'est pas le coin que j'ai préféré. J'ai trouvé plus sympa tout le secteur entre North Gate / Xakanaxa et Third Bridge car il y avait davantage de zones humides.
Quelles autres régions du Botswana comptes-tu visiter durant ton voyage ? Combien de temps consacres-tu à ce pays ?
Il serait dommage de rester qu'une seule journée sur Moremi, il vaut mieux y rester une nuit
Il y a plus de place en camping sur north gate et les alentours car vous sortez de la zone protégée de Moremi, à vérifier vous devriez trouver votre bonheur et surtout vous pourrez faire des safaris de nuit et même à pied ce qui est interdit dans la zone protégée de moremi
Les meilleures opportunités de voir de belles scènes, notamment avec des félins c'est le soir et le matin, hors à ces heures là vous serez sur la route si vous venez de Maun. C'est donc dommage. Le mieux c'est une nuit dans le parc. Soit dans Moremi, soit dans vers Khwai.
Merci pour vos réponses !
Je serai à éléphant sands le matin donc il me semble faisable de loger vers South Gate mais le North gate me semble trop loin non ? Que pensez vous de dormir au South gate camp et le lendemain de rouler du côté de black pool ?
Est ce qu’on croise des voitures régulièrement, en cas de problème de 4x4 dans Moremi ?
J’ai lu que la route de shorobe a South gate était difficile, est ce que c’est toujours le cas ? En quoi est elle si terrible ?
Merci pour ta réponse !
J’ai du mal à me rassurer sur le fait qu’il est simple de conduire à Moremi, tant qu’on n’a pas vu les pistes c’est compliquE de se rendre compte.
On a 3 semaines réparties entre la Namibie et le Botswana, au Botswana on va aller de la bande de caprivi à Chobe (riverfront ou il me semble que c’est faisable de conduire en tant que débutant), puis route vers Nata puis Maun pour voir Moremi et ensuite on repart vers la Namibie
éléphant sands le matin donc il me semble faisable de loger vers South Gate mais le North gate me semble trop loin non ?
faisable oui, mais en plus il faudra faire un ravitaillement à Maun, traverser la ville ce qui est toujours un peu bref sacrément long (7 heures je pense) 😕
Que pensez vous de dormir au South gate camp et le lendemain de rouler du côté de black pool ?
oui sans problème 🙂
Est ce qu’on croise des voitures régulièrement, en cas de problème de 4x4 dans Moremi ?
oui
J’ai lu que la route de shorobe a South gate était difficile, est ce que c’est toujours le cas ? En quoi est elle si terrible ?
c'est de la tôle ondulée et du sable, c'est tout 😉
Merci pour ces réponses !
J’ai lu quelque part que la route entre Nata et Maun, au niveau de Zoroga, avait été endommagée, est ce que c’est toujours le cas ? Est il toujours nécessaire de passer dans de l’eau ? C’est faisable ? Est ce qu’il existe un itinéraire alternatif et faisable pour rejoindre Maun depuis Nata ?
Je comprends que pour aller de Kasane à Moremi, tu passes par Nata et Maun uniquement pour rouler sur du goudron plutôt que sur des pistes. C'est dommage si tu n'as même pas l'intention de visiter Nxai Pan ou Makgadikgadi. Autant prendre au plus court via Savuti. Certes c'est de la piste de sable, mais pas plus difficile que Chobe Riverfront.
Personnellement je n'avais aucune expérience de conduite de 4x4, sur du sable ou ailleurs. J'ai pourtant roulé dans le Central Kalahari, Makgadikgadi, Nxai Pan, Moremi, Savuti et Chobe Riverfront. À l'arrivée je ne le suis ensablé qu'une seule fois, donc rien de grave. Si je l'ai fait, tu peux le faire... 🙂
Je pensais passer par Nata étant donné que je ne suis pas sure qu’on soit capables de faire le trajet via Savuti vu qu’on a aucune expérience pour le moment. As-tu entendu parler d’un problème sur cette route qui pourrait nous empêcher de passer ?
Étant donné ce que tu me dis je vais me renseigner pour voir s’il reste des disponibilités dans les camps de Savuti / Khwai mais je crois quil faut réserver des mois à l’avance... donc je pense que nous ne pourrons pas passer par cet itinéraire...
Sinon j’ai vu que le camp Senyati conseillé dans son guide de passer, pour aller de Kasane à Maun, par Chobe - Mababe - Sankuyo : que pensez-vous de cet itinéraire ? Est ce que c’est plus simple ? Ils disent que c’est un « scenic route »
Non je n'ai pas entendu parler de problème sur la route entre Nata et Maun, mais je dois avouer que je ne me tiens pas particulièrement au courant.
Dans Savuti même, ce sera probablement difficile d'avoir une place de camping disponible, mais sait-on jamais. A Mababe, je serais surpris que Dijara Camp soit complet. Quand on y était, on était seul. Pas loin de Khwai, il y a le Mbudi Camp est qui est très bien mais ne propose que 4 emplacements. Il y a aussi le Magotho Camp sur les bords de la rivière Khwai.
Ce que propose le Senyati Camp, c'est de passer par Savuti car Mababe c'est la sortie sud de Savuti. Ensuite oui, de Mababe à Maun le plus court est de passer par sankuyo, mais dans ce cas-là on évite Moremi.
Merci pour tes réponses !
J'ai commencé à lire ton récit, ça donne vraiment envie de faire un tel voyage !
J'ai eu un retour de South gate camp, il est complet... Je vais tenter de voir si les camps vers Khwai ont des dispo, ainsi que celui de Savuti.
As-tu un mail à me donner sur Dijara camp ? Je n'arrive pas à trouver leur contact.
Si Savuti est complet, tu penses que c'est faisable de faire Senyati - Khwai dans la journée ? Il n'y a pas de campement alternatif entre les deux non ?
C'est clair, le temps dont on dispose au Botswana est un peu court mais ce sera une première initiation au selfdrive dans le pays, et on prévoit de revenir pour y passer vraiment du temps lors d'un autre voyage !
Et aussi Kaziikini, aurais-tu une astuce pour les contacter ?
Est-ce que tu recommandes de rouler un peu dans le Makgadikgadi sur le chemin pour aller à Maun : l'état des routes, le fait d'y aller en août... ? Ou bien il vaut mieux privilégier le temps passé à Moremi ?
Pour la quasi totalité de mes réservations, je suis passé par l'intermédiaire d'une agence basée au Botswana http://www.botswanafootprints.com/. Beaucoup de voyageurs passent par eux : ils ont les bons contacts, ils sont plutôt réactifs, et leur commission est assez minime.
Comme Moremi est la réserve que j'ai préférée au Botswana, je t'encourage à t'y rendre. Makgadikgadi n'est pas la plus facile à visiter car le sable y est très profond (sauf dans le lit de la rivière).
J'ai eu des retours, south gate et savuti sont complets.
Je crois que Kaziikini et Mbudi ont des diponnibilités (j'ai eu ce retour par l'agence NDM Travel Agency, je ne sais pas si c'est fiable).
Le trajet Kasane - Khwai me semble trop ambitieux sans pouvoir faire de pause une nuit à Savuti.
Donc on va devoir faire le tour par Nata.
J'aimerais beaucoup avoir tes conseils sur l'itinéraire qui semble le plus adapté, j'en ai préparé plusieurs mais j'ai du mal à me rendre compte des temps de trajet :
1/
24/08 nuit senyati (on passe 2 autres nuits avant à Senyati)
25/08 nuit elephant sands - trajet senyati - elephant sands = 3h de route
26/08 nuit kaziikini - trajet 5h
27/08 excursion Moremi et nuit à Maun - trajet 1h pour rejoindre moremi et 2h pour rejoindre Maun au retour
28/08 route pour gobabis - trajet 5h30
29/08 route windhoek - trajet 3h
2/
24/08 nuit senyati
25/08 nuit plus loin pas à elephant sands mais genre vers Gweta - trajet senyati - gweta = 4h30 de route - ou bien viser de dormir à Maun (7h de trajet via Nata...)
26/08 nuit vers khwai dans Moremi - trajet 4h de Gweta
27/08 excursion nous-mêmes et nuit à Maun - trajet 2h pour rejoindre Maun au retour depuis sortie du parc
28/08 route pour gobabis - trajet 5h30
29/08 route windhoek - trajet 3h
3/
24/08 nuit senyati
25/08 nuit plus loin pas à elephant sands mais genre vers Gweta - trajet senyati - gweta = 4h30 de route - ou bien viser de dormir à Maun (7h de trajet via Nata...)
26/08 nuit vers khwai dans Moremi - trajet 4h30 y compris visite de Moremi
27/08 excursion nous-mêmes et nuit dans le parc - pas de trajet
28/08 balade dans le parc puis trajet pour Ghanzi - trajet 4h depuis south gate
29/08 route ghanzi - windhoek - trajet 5h30
Notre avion part le 30 matin. Le stop à Gobabis c'est dans l'idée de couper un trajet long mais c'est peut-être pas nécessaire en partant de Ghanzi ?
Si tu ne traînes pas trop dans Savuti, le trajet Senyati - Khwai (ou Mababe) me semble réalisable. Peut-être peux-tu remplacer ta dernière nuit à Senyati par une nuit à Mwandi View ou à Muchenje, à l'ouest de Chobe Riverfront, cela te ferait gagner une bonne heure.
Sinon ma préférence va vers ton itinéraire n°3.
Le trajet Ghanzi-Windhoek est largement faisable dans la journée.
24/08 nuit senyati
25/08 nuit plus loin pas à elephant sands mais genre vers Gweta - trajet senyati - gweta = 4h30 de route - ou bien viser de dormir à Maun (7h de trajet via Nata...)
26/08 nuit vers khwai dans Moremi - trajet 4h30 y compris visite de Moremi
27/08 excursion nous-mêmes et nuit dans le parc - pas de trajet
28/08 balade dans le parc puis trajet pour Ghanzi - trajet 4h depuis south gate
29/08 route ghanzi - windhoek - trajet 5h30
Mais j'avoue que c'est par défaut car là, sur un total de 5 jours, il n'y a qu'une journée de "visite" tout le reste c'est de la route. 😕
Ce n'est pas inutile de prévoir de temps en temsp deux nuits à la même place et pas trop loin des villes...juste pour aller faire réparer le(s) pneu(s)….
A mon avis le e-mail des campsites ne sont pas très utiles, autant passer par une agence (NDM ou autre), ils se renseignent partout rapidement pour toi, s'occupent de toutes les réservations (y compris entrées des parcs) et tu n'as qu'un seul versement à faire.
Ils demandent un forfait de 50USD pour le tout quel que soit le nombre de réservations mais si tu dois effectuer plusieurs virements bancaires internationaux pour les acomptes par toi-même c'est bien plus cher ( et surtout plus compliqué).
tu avais fait le trajet Kasane - Khwai en combien de temps ? En prenant ton temps ? J'ai l'impression que les routes sont très compliquées dans ce coin...
Merci pour les adresses mail mais ça ne répond pas donc je vais passer par une agence je pense !
Si on passe par Nata, vous recommandez plutôt de faire : Senyati - Maun et de dormir à Maun, ou de faire un stop vers Gweta par exemple ?
Merci pour ton conseil sur NDM et de passer par les agences.
On va passer 3 nuits à Senyati avant de faire l'itinéraire évoqué, j'espère que ça suffira et puis avec tente sur le toit on pourra toujours se débrouiller en cas de pépin si on doit changer l'itinéraire je pense
On a mis environ 8h30 pour faire le trajet entre Dijara Camp et Mwandi View (on n'est pas allé jusqu'à Kasane car on avait prévu de passer 3 jours dans la bande de Caprivi). Départ 7h30 et arrivée vers 16h. On a quand même trainé un peu dans Savuti, pour monter voir les peintures rupestres par exemple, pour déjeuner, et l'on n'a pas pris non plus la trajectoire la plus directe. En contrepartie, comme on n'a pas vu beaucoup d'animaux, la "chasse photographique" ne nous a pas pris énormément de temps.
Les pistes sont sableuses et d'un niveau de difficulté équivalent à ce que l'on trouve dans Chobe Riverfront et Moremi.
Si tu passes par Nata, à ta place j'irais jusqu'à Maun.
Le plus simple est de ne pas réserver la nuit de transition et d'aller aussi loin que possible. Vers Gweta vous trouverez toujours quelque chose.
Si vous êtes bon niveau timing, vous pouvez continuer jusqu'à Drifter's Camp à 30 kms de Maun
Merci pour vos réponses.
J'essaie de réserver à Mbudi, j'ai deux possibilités :
- soit via NDM travel agency, à 385 par personne
- soit via khwai safari grounds à 350 par personne
J'ai Khwai Safari grounds qui me dit que Mbudi et Khwai Safari grounds sont le même camp, mais NDM me dit que non, j'ai du mal à trouver les infos. J'aimerais réserver à Mbudi de la manière la plus fiable possible. A votre avis, je passe par qui ? Connaissez-vous Khwai Safari grounds ? J'ai l'impression que c'est un nouveau camp à côté de Mbudi mais que ce n'est pas exactement la même chose mais j'ai du mal à trouver l'info.
Merci !
Super merci pour votre retour.
Comment aviez vous réservé pour mbudi ? Et pour khwai safari grounds ? Pour le paiement ça se passe comment dans les deux cas ?
Mince, séjour annulé pour avril 2020 ??
Même s'ils sont assez proches l'un de l'autre, et que l'environnement doit se ressembler, Mbudi Camp et Khwai Safari Ground sont bien deux camps différents.
L'an dernier, j'avais payer 350 pulas par personne pour Mbudi. Si NDM travel agency te demande 385 pulas, c'est qu'ils te prennent 10% de commission.
Pour (presque) toutes mes réservations dans le camps au Botswana, j'étais passé par Botswana Footprints (agence sérieuse). Ils prennent une commission forfaitaire de 500 pulas (quelque soit le nombre de réservations que tu leur demandes).
J'avais essayé de contacter directement Mbudi par leur mail, mais ils n'ont jamais répondu.
Merci !
Est-ce que les campements ont accepté de reporter ou d'annuler les nuits avec ce qu'il se passe en ce moment?
Je pars normalement en août, j'espère que ça va le faire...
As-tu testé les deux camps ? Lequel est le mieux à ton avis ?
Je vais tenter de contacter l'agence dont tu parles pour voir s'ils peuvent réserver à un autre prix pour seulement deux nuits car l'agence NDM n'est pas très réactive.
Non je n'ai testé que Mbudi Camp. Les 2 doivent se ressembler du point de vue environnement (bord de la rivière Mbudi) et du point de vue équipement. Mbudi me semble un tout petit peu plus proche de Moremi North Gate que Khwai Safari Grounds, mais ça doit se jouer à quelques minutes.
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Nous sommes un couple de 60 ans, nous souhaitons visiter la Namibie (partie désert du Namib, facile à organiser, en cours) et le Botswana sur trois semaines…
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!