Hello VF friends!
We’re planning to leave Marrakesh by rental car—this will be our second trip to Morocco. While we want to revisit some places, we also hope to explore new regions. Here’s the start of our itinerary, which could take 2 to 3 weeks. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers each day.
- Depart Marrakech for Essaouira, stopping to visit the Inzerki beehive. We’ll stay 3 nights in Essaouira to explore the city and the surrounding area.
- Head toward Tamanar or that region for another 3 nights, exploring on a star-shaped route. We’d like to see the Paradise Valley and the coast. Not really keen on stopping in Agadir.
We’ve been to Tafraoute before, but I’d love to see some *greniers* (granaries) again, so we’re considering 1 or 2 nights there.
- Tiznit for 2 nights, making our way to Plage Blanche.
- Guelmin and the Tighmert oasis for 2 nights.
- Tata for 2 nights, visiting Akka Iguane and other villages.
After that, we’ll head east.
We’d love to hear about your experiences, great tips, and recommendations!
Here are a few places where we might set our bags down soon...
Essaouira: Le Douar des Oliviers.
Tafraoute: L'Arganier d'Ammeln
Tiznit: Riad Le Lieu
Tighmert Oasis: La Maison de l'Homme Bleu.
Happy holidays and safe travels in Morocco!
Good evening,
from Guelmim you’ll head to Plage Blanche. Not Tiznit.
Also, this round-trip by car isn’t really worth it unless you’re in a 4x4 and plan to drive on the sand and do the Pkage and its 40 km.
Instead, go to Foum Assaka, at Rayon Vert, at Rachid’s—you can sleep and eat there, with excellent fish.
In Tiznit, there are a few nice places to stay, like the riad Le Lieu, right near Place El Mechouar where you can park your car.
The riad El Janoub (you can park your car in front of the riad).
You can eat at both places. Breakfast is great at Janoub.
You can grab a drink (alcohol) at the bar of Hôtel Tiznit at the roundabout.
Tourists love the restaurant "À l’Ombre du Figuier" in the old medina. For me, it’s just okay, but the place is nice and the Moroccan owners are too.
Go to Ferme Turtite just outside the ramparts. I really enjoyed the lamb or goat tagine.
You’ll eat very well at the restaurant on the first floor of Hôtel Tiznit, and they serve wine there.
In Guelmim, you know you have to go to the big Saturday morning souk.
Stroll around this city starting at 5 PM. It's far from being the most beautiful city in Morocco, but it's a place where you feel good, and you'll be the only travelers! You'll really get to know the real Morocco and see the difference with Essaouira, which is very touristy, or even Tafraout. It's bustling with people.
Have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice in front of the mosque on the Square.
Do your little shopping on Oued Street.
Have lunch at Abwal de Rome, 33, or Balina. Or eat roast chicken at Bir Anzaean Square.
The Maison de l'Homme Bleu, which Jeeaan recommends, is a must-visit. Ibrahim, the owner, is absolutely charming and interesting. Both the lodging and the food are remarkable for the price. I rarely leave comments on Facebook, but I left one.
From Tighmert, go to the Fask spring. Sure, it's a dirt road, but it's passable by car. Ask around to reach this "source" of 40°C sulfur hot water.
You can dip in your swimsuit into the rustic hole.
Why not make a stop in Agadir?
Have you been before?
Not at all—I just have this image of charter flights, tourists in buses, and everything that goes with it. Scams and pressure. So I’m planning to keep going, but I’m always open to revising my preconceptions! I feel the same way about the desert.
Thanks, I’ll take note of your suggestions and skip Plage Blanche.
We’ll be staying in Marrakech for 2 nights—we arrive late in the evening and leave the morning after next, which really only gives us one full day.
To be honest, when I read some posts, I get the impression that the desert, especially Merzouga, is really over-touristed. I’m open to being convinced about Agadir, though. Our way of traveling lets us go at our own pace. I’m jotting down everything that might interest us along the way, even though I know we won’t see it all. We’ve planned 2 to 3 weeks to reach Tata, sticking to the coast. No interest in a tiring road trip—we’re not exactly spring chickens anymore! And then there’s the weather; we have to take that into account, especially this winter.
Thanks for all your great tips—I’m noting them down carefully. Tell me everything worth checking out in Agadir itself, because of course I’ve seen that the surrounding areas are full of gems.
Anne
Thanks Jeeaan, I’m drawing inspiration from your travel journal. Back in 2014, we stayed 3 nights in Ijoukak and really loved the place. I’m also reading your posts on the topic and learning from your experiences.
Hi there, you absolutely must see Agadir Bay from the top of the Kasbah Oufella. You can choose your mode of transport: on foot, by bus, or by cable car. If you're driving, you’ll need to leave your car behind and finish on foot.
El Had Souk is closed on Mondays.
A walk along the corniche in the late afternoon is really nice.
It’s lively—lots of people, kids, street vendors, and restaurants (though I don’t know those ones).
Before Tiznit, take a detour to the Massa region and Sidi Wassay by the ocean. It’s a beautiful, lush area along the river.
There are wildlife parks if you're interested.
From Tiznit, you can take the coast road or the expressway to Guelmim.
Along the coast, there are stops worth making: Mirleft, Sidi Ifni.
I can give you some accommodation names if you’d like.
Thanks in advance for the great tips. In Essaouira, among other places, and maybe one night in Agadir since if we walk along the corniche in the late afternoon, we won’t want to drive at night. I saw Souss Massa for a beautiful wildlife excursion—is that the place you’re talking about?
All your addresses interest me; we’ll have the *Guide du Routard*, but private recommendations are even better. It’s awesome how much time you’re giving me—I hope others follow this post.
Essaouira:
The Hôtel des Îles. Easy to access and well located.
The riads in the old town are quite expensive.
Don’t miss going to Taros for a drink on the 3rd floor to watch the sunset, and have dinner there too. There might be a live music group.
For a night in Agadir without a car and wanting to stroll along the corniche?
You should stay in the tourist district on Boulevard du 20 Août, where hotels (some with clubs or all-inclusive options) are plentiful. You’ll have plenty of choices. The Kenzi Europa, for example, is a good mid-range option and has been renovated.
In Mirleft (actually 4 km before), the Aftas Trip hotel is really nice.
Lots of restaurants: Zan Zan Café, but not just that.
In Sidi Ifni, you’ll find a riad run by a friendly French guy (Patrick, I think) called Xanadu, right in the old medina (but you can park in front). This riad might appeal to you.
There’s also the Hôtel Bellevue with a bar, so you can enjoy an apéritif, and the restaurant has a great view.
Both accommodations are very reasonably priced.
Thanks! For Essaouira and Agadir, it’s out of budget, but I think I’ll find something given the time I’m aiming for. I’m noting all your info, and our journey is more or less on track at least until Tighmert. It’ll take us a good 15 days to get there. Wishing you happy holidays!
Anne
Hi Marie,
We’re now in your favorite region. We’re staying at Riad Le Lieu in Tiznit. I’ve got a little scheduling issue and I’m reaching out to tap into your experience of the area. Today’s Wednesday, so we’re not far from Guelmim to check out the souk. We could head to Aglou tomorrow and go back to Guelmim on Friday, which would mean staying here for 2 nights. But I’m wondering if it might be smarter to do the coast starting from Aglou, heading down to Foum Assaka, and arriving near Guelmim or Tighmert by the end of next week.
After Tighmert, we’ll be leaving the coast for good.
Thanks for taking a look at this little stretch of the trip and giving me your advice
Good evening,
my name is Marie Mathilde!
And it's Guelmim, not Guelmin. (People often get it wrong, you're not the only one)
From Tiznit via the expressway, which you'll take a few kilometers north of Tiznit, you're less than 1 hour 30 minutes from Guelmim.
If you decide to follow the coast, it takes longer, of course, but it's lovely.
If I understood your request correctly, you're not sure whether you'll go to Guelmim this Friday or next Friday. Is that right?
Since you're leaving the region after Tighmert (which isn't on the coast but 70 or 80 km from the ocean), I recommend following the coast.
You could leave Tiznit the day after tomorrow. If you're not sure what to do in Tiznit tomorrow, head to the Youssef ben Tachfine dam, north of Tiznit. It's signposted. It's really beautiful.
And then book by phone at Ferme Turtite for lunch or dinner.
Then Aglou, but there's not much to see, honestly. If you like it, the corniche and the beach—the campsite rents pretty nice chalets for around 50 €, I think, fully equipped.
At Nid d'Aigle, on the way to Mirleft, you can go paragliding. The site is great, and you can stay there.
Then there's Mirleft, a nice little town. There are plenty of accommodation options. Go to Casbah de l'Artiste at Ibrahim's for lunch, but book ahead.
Head up to the fort (with a view of the town).
Sidi Ifni is another pleasant little town. I think I already mentioned the Xanadoo guesthouse.
At Foum Assaka, about 40 km from Sidi Ifni, you'll find Rayon Vert. You can enjoy sea urchins and grilled fish there. You can also stay overnight.
The site is wonderful, and the welcome is warm.
From there, you'll be at most 1 hour 30 minutes from Guelmim or Tighmert.
In Guelmim, there aren't many restaurants, but Anwal de Rome, La Corbina, and La Balina offer good dishes. On Bir Anzaram Square, you can have roast chicken for lunch.
But if you're in Guelmim on Friday, it's couscous day. I suggest you have it at Anwal de Rome.
There you go—you'll spend your week on lovely visits, stress-free, before heading to the souk around 5 or 6 PM on Friday. You'll see the huge hay loads on the trucks.
Afterward, don't miss going back to the city center, to the post office or mosque square. The atmosphere will be lively, and have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice at one of the stalls you can't miss.
Thanks Marie Mathilde, we’re going to follow all these great tips! We’re eating at the Hôtel Tiznit tonight, but off-season like now, it’s a bit gloomy with this huge, almost empty room. We went for tea earlier at the Tigmite farm, and we really liked the vibe there. We’ll eat out tomorrow—all this will give me time to do some window shopping in Tiznit, ouch! Paragliding, we’ll watch with pleasure, those kinds of activities aren’t really for our age anymore 😄. Thanks again.
Anne
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This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!