Your tips and recommendations for a trip through southern Morocco
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Original post
AN
Hello VF friends! We’re planning to leave Marrakesh by rental car—this will be our second trip to Morocco. While we want to revisit some places, we also hope to explore new regions. Here’s the start of our itinerary, which could take 2 to 3 weeks. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers each day.

- Depart Marrakech for Essaouira, stopping to visit the Inzerki beehive. We’ll stay 3 nights in Essaouira to explore the city and the surrounding area. - Head toward Tamanar or that region for another 3 nights, exploring on a star-shaped route. We’d like to see the Paradise Valley and the coast. Not really keen on stopping in Agadir.

We’ve been to Tafraoute before, but I’d love to see some *greniers* (granaries) again, so we’re considering 1 or 2 nights there.

- Tiznit for 2 nights, making our way to Plage Blanche. - Guelmin and the Tighmert oasis for 2 nights. - Tata for 2 nights, visiting Akka Iguane and other villages.

After that, we’ll head east.

We’d love to hear about your experiences, great tips, and recommendations!

Thanks so much, and happy holidays!
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
Here are a few places where we might set our bags down soon... Essaouira: Le Douar des Oliviers. Tafraoute: L'Arganier d'Ammeln Tiznit: Riad Le Lieu Tighmert Oasis: La Maison de l'Homme Bleu. Happy holidays and safe travels in Morocco!
AN An5 Veteran ·
Thanks, maybe we’ll cross paths! I’ve already found a lot of great tips in your previous posts ((-;
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Good evening, from Guelmim you’ll head to Plage Blanche. Not Tiznit. Also, this round-trip by car isn’t really worth it unless you’re in a 4x4 and plan to drive on the sand and do the Pkage and its 40 km.

Instead, go to Foum Assaka, at Rayon Vert, at Rachid’s—you can sleep and eat there, with excellent fish.

In Tiznit, there are a few nice places to stay, like the riad Le Lieu, right near Place El Mechouar where you can park your car. The riad El Janoub (you can park your car in front of the riad). You can eat at both places. Breakfast is great at Janoub.

You can grab a drink (alcohol) at the bar of Hôtel Tiznit at the roundabout. Tourists love the restaurant "À l’Ombre du Figuier" in the old medina. For me, it’s just okay, but the place is nice and the Moroccan owners are too.

Go to Ferme Turtite just outside the ramparts. I really enjoyed the lamb or goat tagine. You’ll eat very well at the restaurant on the first floor of Hôtel Tiznit, and they serve wine there.
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
In Guelmim, you know you have to go to the big Saturday morning souk. Stroll around this city starting at 5 PM. It's far from being the most beautiful city in Morocco, but it's a place where you feel good, and you'll be the only travelers! You'll really get to know the real Morocco and see the difference with Essaouira, which is very touristy, or even Tafraout. It's bustling with people. Have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice in front of the mosque on the Square. Do your little shopping on Oued Street.

Have lunch at Abwal de Rome, 33, or Balina. Or eat roast chicken at Bir Anzaean Square.

The Maison de l'Homme Bleu, which Jeeaan recommends, is a must-visit. Ibrahim, the owner, is absolutely charming and interesting. Both the lodging and the food are remarkable for the price. I rarely leave comments on Facebook, but I left one. From Tighmert, go to the Fask spring. Sure, it's a dirt road, but it's passable by car. Ask around to reach this "source" of 40°C sulfur hot water. You can dip in your swimsuit into the rustic hole.
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Why not make a stop in Agadir? Have you been there already?
AN An5 Veteran ·
Why not make a stop in Agadir? Have you been before? Not at all—I just have this image of charter flights, tourists in buses, and everything that goes with it. Scams and pressure. So I’m planning to keep going, but I’m always open to revising my preconceptions! I feel the same way about the desert. Thanks, I’ll take note of your suggestions and skip Plage Blanche.
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Hi there, Charters, tourists in coaches, scams, and pressure. You're on the wrong track! I'm afraid you'll encounter more of that in Marrakech....
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
Really helpful tips.
AN An5 Veteran ·
We’ll be staying in Marrakech for 2 nights—we arrive late in the evening and leave the morning after next, which really only gives us one full day. To be honest, when I read some posts, I get the impression that the desert, especially Merzouga, is really over-touristed. I’m open to being convinced about Agadir, though. Our way of traveling lets us go at our own pace. I’m jotting down everything that might interest us along the way, even though I know we won’t see it all. We’ve planned 2 to 3 weeks to reach Tata, sticking to the coast. No interest in a tiring road trip—we’re not exactly spring chickens anymore! And then there’s the weather; we have to take that into account, especially this winter. Thanks for all your great tips—I’m noting them down carefully. Tell me everything worth checking out in Agadir itself, because of course I’ve seen that the surrounding areas are full of gems. Anne
AN An5 Veteran ·
Thanks Jeeaan, I’m drawing inspiration from your travel journal. Back in 2014, we stayed 3 nights in Ijoukak and really loved the place. I’m also reading your posts on the topic and learning from your experiences.
AN An5 Veteran ·
Oops, that was in 2011—time flies!
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
For me, Merzouga is totally worth it.... Amazing landscapes, extraordinary colors. And at this winter season, you shouldn't be too crowded.
AN An5 Veteran ·
I can’t decide between Merzouga, M’hamid, or starting from Zagora for the best desert experience.
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
Personally, I’d go for Merzouga—it’s easier to get to, and the dunes are taller. But others might have a different take!
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Hi there, you absolutely must see Agadir Bay from the top of the Kasbah Oufella. You can choose your mode of transport: on foot, by bus, or by cable car. If you're driving, you’ll need to leave your car behind and finish on foot. El Had Souk is closed on Mondays. A walk along the corniche in the late afternoon is really nice. It’s lively—lots of people, kids, street vendors, and restaurants (though I don’t know those ones).

Before Tiznit, take a detour to the Massa region and Sidi Wassay by the ocean. It’s a beautiful, lush area along the river. There are wildlife parks if you're interested.

From Tiznit, you can take the coast road or the expressway to Guelmim. Along the coast, there are stops worth making: Mirleft, Sidi Ifni. I can give you some accommodation names if you’d like.
AN An5 Veteran ·
Thanks in advance for the great tips. In Essaouira, among other places, and maybe one night in Agadir since if we walk along the corniche in the late afternoon, we won’t want to drive at night. I saw Souss Massa for a beautiful wildlife excursion—is that the place you’re talking about? All your addresses interest me; we’ll have the *Guide du Routard*, but private recommendations are even better. It’s awesome how much time you’re giving me—I hope others follow this post.
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Essaouira: The Hôtel des Îles. Easy to access and well located. The riads in the old town are quite expensive. Don’t miss going to Taros for a drink on the 3rd floor to watch the sunset, and have dinner there too. There might be a live music group.

For a night in Agadir without a car and wanting to stroll along the corniche? You should stay in the tourist district on Boulevard du 20 Août, where hotels (some with clubs or all-inclusive options) are plentiful. You’ll have plenty of choices. The Kenzi Europa, for example, is a good mid-range option and has been renovated.

In Mirleft (actually 4 km before), the Aftas Trip hotel is really nice. Lots of restaurants: Zan Zan Café, but not just that.

In Sidi Ifni, you’ll find a riad run by a friendly French guy (Patrick, I think) called Xanadu, right in the old medina (but you can park in front). This riad might appeal to you. There’s also the Hôtel Bellevue with a bar, so you can enjoy an apéritif, and the restaurant has a great view. Both accommodations are very reasonably priced.

Restaurants: Nomad or Terroir Vert.
AN An5 Veteran ·
Thanks! For Essaouira and Agadir, it’s out of budget, but I think I’ll find something given the time I’m aiming for. I’m noting all your info, and our journey is more or less on track at least until Tighmert. It’ll take us a good 15 days to get there. Wishing you happy holidays! Anne
AN An5 Veteran ·
Hi Marie, We’re now in your favorite region. We’re staying at Riad Le Lieu in Tiznit. I’ve got a little scheduling issue and I’m reaching out to tap into your experience of the area. Today’s Wednesday, so we’re not far from Guelmim to check out the souk. We could head to Aglou tomorrow and go back to Guelmim on Friday, which would mean staying here for 2 nights. But I’m wondering if it might be smarter to do the coast starting from Aglou, heading down to Foum Assaka, and arriving near Guelmim or Tighmert by the end of next week. After Tighmert, we’ll be leaving the coast for good. Thanks for taking a look at this little stretch of the trip and giving me your advice
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Good evening, my name is Marie Mathilde! And it's Guelmim, not Guelmin. (People often get it wrong, you're not the only one)

From Tiznit via the expressway, which you'll take a few kilometers north of Tiznit, you're less than 1 hour 30 minutes from Guelmim. If you decide to follow the coast, it takes longer, of course, but it's lovely.

If I understood your request correctly, you're not sure whether you'll go to Guelmim this Friday or next Friday. Is that right?

Since you're leaving the region after Tighmert (which isn't on the coast but 70 or 80 km from the ocean), I recommend following the coast.

You could leave Tiznit the day after tomorrow. If you're not sure what to do in Tiznit tomorrow, head to the Youssef ben Tachfine dam, north of Tiznit. It's signposted. It's really beautiful. And then book by phone at Ferme Turtite for lunch or dinner.

Then Aglou, but there's not much to see, honestly. If you like it, the corniche and the beach—the campsite rents pretty nice chalets for around 50 €, I think, fully equipped.

At Nid d'Aigle, on the way to Mirleft, you can go paragliding. The site is great, and you can stay there.

Then there's Mirleft, a nice little town. There are plenty of accommodation options. Go to Casbah de l'Artiste at Ibrahim's for lunch, but book ahead. Head up to the fort (with a view of the town). Sidi Ifni is another pleasant little town. I think I already mentioned the Xanadoo guesthouse. At Foum Assaka, about 40 km from Sidi Ifni, you'll find Rayon Vert. You can enjoy sea urchins and grilled fish there. You can also stay overnight. The site is wonderful, and the welcome is warm. From there, you'll be at most 1 hour 30 minutes from Guelmim or Tighmert. In Guelmim, there aren't many restaurants, but Anwal de Rome, La Corbina, and La Balina offer good dishes. On Bir Anzaram Square, you can have roast chicken for lunch. But if you're in Guelmim on Friday, it's couscous day. I suggest you have it at Anwal de Rome.

There you go—you'll spend your week on lovely visits, stress-free, before heading to the souk around 5 or 6 PM on Friday. You'll see the huge hay loads on the trucks. Afterward, don't miss going back to the city center, to the post office or mosque square. The atmosphere will be lively, and have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice at one of the stalls you can't miss.

Happy planning! Marie Mathilde.
AO Aoreora1 Regular ·
Yes, of course in Aglou there are the fishermen's caves (and foreigners' too!). Worth seeing.
AN An5 Veteran ·
Thanks Marie Mathilde, we’re going to follow all these great tips! We’re eating at the Hôtel Tiznit tonight, but off-season like now, it’s a bit gloomy with this huge, almost empty room. We went for tea earlier at the Tigmite farm, and we really liked the vibe there. We’ll eat out tomorrow—all this will give me time to do some window shopping in Tiznit, ouch! Paragliding, we’ll watch with pleasure, those kinds of activities aren’t really for our age anymore 😄. Thanks again. Anne

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