Hi there, I’m planning to visit the Raja Ampat Islands next June. It’s pretty tricky to organize. What’s the best gateway to get there? Do you know of any places to stay if I don’t want to go diving? Which agencies can provide information? Thanks so much for your help!
voyager c'est aller de soi même à soi même en passant par les autres.
We’re planning to go to the Raja Ampat Islands for a week in June 2012. One of Indonesia’s paradise spots!!
As you’ve probably seen online, hotels are super expensive, and homestays are pretty basic... So we found another solution on a forum: renting a traditional fishing boat and going on a "cruise" around the northern and southern islands!
The trip through this archipelago looks amazing. A local guide named Deni offers to explore the islands with the locals. He also works for Kri Eco Lodge.
The itinerary is on his website: www.rajaampatadventures.com
and you can check out photo albums on his Facebook page: Deni Rajaampat
Some nights we’ll sleep on the boat, others we’ll camp in tents on uninhabited islands.
We’ll go snorkeling, fishing, hike to waterfalls, climb hills for insane views... and visit villages to discover Papuan art.
Since the boat requires a minimum of 3 people, we need to find other adventurers to join us!!!
We’re a young couple (26 years old) from Paris & Montreal. We love new experiences, camping, sports, diving, etc.!
Our trip is planned from Sunday, June 17 to Sunday, June 24, 2012.
Apparently, the locals are excellent skippers. They have new camping gear, and the crew sets up a nice camp (and campfire) every night. We just need to bring a sheet and hiking shoes.
The price is 7 million rupiahs per person (around 580 €) for a week, all-inclusive. That covers the boat, nights (with mattresses in tents), 3 meals a day (prepared by a dedicated chef), and taxi transfers to/from the airport. It doesn’t include the mandatory "Raja Ampat Marine Park Entry" permit, which costs 500,000 rupiahs and is payable at the airport.
Sure, it’s a budget... but it’s still cheaper than a week in other lodges (around 1,200 €).
Since we’re dreaming of this trip (on a boat, adventurous, with a "small" budget), we’re posting the info in different forums hoping to find other crew members!!
Feel free to contact us if you have questions or reach out directly to guide Deni (his email is on his website).
Hi! Wow, what a great project! Actually, we're interested, especially since we'll be in Indonesia for the third time this summer, from May 1st to August 12th! But unfortunately, we had a little baby since then—he'll be 10-14 months old this summer, and this kind of expedition would be a bit too... adventurous for now with such a young baby! Hehehe. We'll have to sit this one out...
But do share the details, photos, and travel stories with us when you get back!
Hey there,
Great post and thanks for the tip! My girlfriend and I are also trying to do this kind of trip to Raja Ampat, but unfortunately our travel dates don’t line up... we’re leaving from April 7th to 20th. Still, it’s a great tip for those who aren’t diving specialists and are watching their budget. In April, Deni doesn’t have any boats available for the cruise yet... ugh... but I haven’t given up hope of going! Good luck with your search!
My girlfriend and I are planning to head to this region of Indonesia and were wondering if you’d found a full crew yet? Your trip sounds amazing, and we’d be really interested.
Hello, we're really excited to go too!! We found a couple from Lyon through VoyageForum or Le Guide du Routard—I can’t remember which... They’ve just booked their flight tickets and reserved with our local contact. So for now, it’s two couples. The crew can still be filled out with 2 or 3 more couples, so come join us!! It’s gonna be amazing!! The "cruise" will run from Sunday, June 17th to Sunday, June 24th, but because of the flights, we’ll arrive on Friday the 15th in the evening and leave on Sunday the 24th in the morning. Don’t hesitate to message me privately if you want to chat about it.
Laurence
It seems pretty "basic," but it’s a good alternative for those who don’t dive and don’t want to spend 3000 € for a week in a dive resort.
I contacted this Robben guy by email, and he responds well, but I’d love to hear from people who’ve stayed there—haven’t found much online.
Raja Ampat’s supposed to be super expensive, so when I see a homestay with 3 meals a day for 38 €, I wonder: is it like a hut with a woven coconut-leaf roof and rice and coconut for breakfast, lunch, and dinner?
There are still some gray areas, especially about the exact cost of transfers between Sorong and the homestays.
I read on the site above:
* Taxi from airport to Sorong dock = 8 USD
* Cabin on the Sorong/Wasai ferry = 12 USD
* Transfer from Waisai to Mansur = 50 USD
That’s a max of 70 USD (53 €), since the 50 USD for the Waisai/Mansur transfer would be split among passengers...
that the transfer (except Sundays) costs 450 €... I can’t figure out this crazy price difference. Did I miss something? Is Sorido Bay Resort much farther from the homestays on Pulau Kri?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it.
Hello Ebbe, we also found those homestays after some research. Unfortunately, we had negative feedback and it didn’t make us want to stay there... Very basic beds (on the floor), questionable food hygiene (some people got sick), and every little move or activity is charged—plus Robben takes a commission on everything. That’s the gist of what some travelers told me! So, we opted for a boat in "local cruise" mode with Deni (you can find him on Facebook as "Deni Rajaampat"). We’re going next June.
Good luck with your research.
Laurence
Yeah, I knew about that site. I checked it out, but it didn’t really excite me... especially since on top of the stay price, you have to add boat trips, and you’re basically a captive audience. Plus, the fact that prices are rarely displayed in rupiah says a lot about the local mentality 🙁
I think Laurence and David’s option is the best way to explore the archipelago, even though this Deni guy charges three times the normal price for a boat charter in Indonesia (you should budget around one million per day on average to charter a decent-sized boat—I paid around that in Sumatra, Sulawesi, and Komodo). Of course, fuel is way more expensive in Papua, but still, Deni’s itinerary isn’t very long since he doesn’t seem to go to Misool... The idea of sharing with other travelers helps ease the pain, but I’m sure that if you speak a little Indonesian, plan for two days of "wear-them-down" negotiation, and pay for fuel separately, you can get a much better deal. For this kind of project, the internet is reassuring, but I don’t think it’s the best way to negotiate a price with an Indonesian.
But the project is still really cool—I’m not trying to badmouth it, just sharing my opinion as a cheap traveler 🙂
Size of a boat at 1 million per day (I’d negotiated fuel included this time)
Watch out for running aground on the coral when it’s low tide 😏
Between Sorong and Waisai, there are two public ferries: a fast one (3h - 120,000 IDR/person) and a slow wooden one (6h - 70,000 IDR/person).
A room in Waisai costs at least 200,000 IDR.
To charter a "long boat" (which can hold up to 14 people in calm seas), you have to get up at 4 AM and go to the market (if I understood correctly). The average rate is 2 million IDR per day, not including fuel.
To get to Wayag, you need 400 liters of fuel, according to the author, with a liter costing around 10,000 IDR.
At the end, he explains his calculation based on 4 people, but I didn’t quite get it—maybe someone’s better at Bahasa and math than I am
he says that for 4 people it’s only 4.7 million total—so if there are 5 or 10 of you, it’s even cheaper (per person)... So what are you waiting for???
Anyway, the 500,000 IDR tax per person just to set foot there...
Hi there, I just saw your post—I got back from Indonesia a week ago and spent 12 days diving in Raja Ampat on an amazing boat: www.thearenui.com. Just so you know, it’s absolutely incredible—unbelievable marine life—you’re going to love it if you can dive. It’s definitely worth it because it’s one of the top five diving spots in the world. Even for snorkeling, there’s a ton to see.
I landed in Sorong. The best way to get there is to fly from Jakarta with Lion Air via Ambon and connect in Ambon for a flight to Sorong (bookable online at lionair.co.id). Just a heads-up: there’s only one flight per day, leaving Jakarta at 1:30 AM from Terminal T1—modern, brand-new plane (avoid Merpati). Make sure to allow plenty of time to change planes in Jakarta. Indonesians can be unpredictable, and I almost missed my flight because my KUL-CGK flight was delayed by over 3 hours! I had just 30 minutes to clear immigration and switch terminals, when you usually need at least 1.5 hours. It was a real miracle I made it!
The place is amazing—islands everywhere with (deserted) beaches. You’ll feel like Robinson Crusoe. Some villages are so remote that it takes 1–2 days by boat to reach Sorong (the town itself isn’t worth visiting).
Important: don’t forget malaria protection—it’s essential—and wear a T-shirt in the water to avoid sunburn.
For the return trip to Bali via Makassar (avoid Merpati flights), take ExpressAir and connect in Makassar (3.5-hour layover, no problem). Then fly to Bali with Garuda (bookable online).
The ExpressAir flight has to be booked through an agent—it’s not available online.
We’re reopening this thread because we’re looking for 2 travel companions for a 7-day boat tour in the Raja Ampat Islands! It’s with Deni, the same tour we discussed in this thread last year! 🙂
My boyfriend and I are heading back to Indonesia next summer for the second time. He’s 24, I’m 23, and we’re backpacking. We love discovering stunning natural landscapes and more remote spots... and we really want to visit the amazing Raja Ampat Islands!! It’s a simple boat, and we’ll mostly sleep on the boat and sometimes in tents on the islands!
For the boat tour to happen, we need a minimum of 3 people... so we’re looking for other travelers who’d like to join us. The boat tour would be from June 1st to 7th, 2013, but the dates are flexible and could also be the following week, from June 7th to 14th.
We really hope to find some travel companions :) It would be an AMAZING experience!!!
If you’re interested, you can reply to this message or send me a private email.
Hey Lolo from the Islands,
I’ve tried digging into these options several times—the prices are absolutely staggering, and the situation in Papua is tense with tourists.
Few offers with decent accommodations at reasonable prices. However, luxury cruises on wooden boats (like SeaTrek) are really well-regarded, and friends who’ve done them found it sublime (and safe).
With the recent fuel price hikes, there are protests everywhere and inter-religious conflicts, like in the Moluccas.
Recently, 50 sticks of dynamite were stolen, and a prison in Aceh was set on fire (100 terrorists escaped)—this isn’t going to make security in Indonesia any easier.
Security here is getting worse and worse... makes me wonder if I’ll stay.
See you soon, I hope...
About Raja Ampat: Lazslo-the-know-it-all (but it's true he knows everything) who's active on Lonely Planet says you can rough it. The trick is speaking Indonesian, having time to negotiate a boat with a fisherman, and above all, not going through the Indonesians who know how to use the internet. But I'm getting pretty good at this sport, having used this technique in places without tourist infrastructure like the Banggai Islands, Taka Bonerate, or even the Taman National of the 8 Pulau on West Sumbawa (not far from your place—it's worth the trip!).
I'm thinking of putting together a small group of 5-6 for Raja Ampat (like Cacaouète mentioned earlier in the discussion), but the plan's been postponed because I'll probably have to fight my employer to keep my annualized part-time schedule (and the 4 months of vacation that come with it).
As for safety, is it really that bad?? It's crazy, I don't hear anything about it where I live (in... beep... to avoid someone saying the word), but I have to say, unlike you, I'm not living there year-round. On the other hand, the problems in Kuta—yeah, I hear about those a lot. Maybe that'll save Lombok from being overdeveloped, but if it's making you wonder whether you'll stay, that's worrying.
I passed through Kuta last winter (but just for one night!) and I'll be back in Lombok next winter (in July-August—even if I'm working, I think I'm better off in my little village than in the overcrowded beach resorts of Bali-Lombok 😉).
Okay, I'll stop there—with this little detour, we're gonna get the self-appointed moderators all worked up again.
Hey, the 8 Pulau national park—I can’t see where it is; I’ll take a closer look.
Yeah, you only really notice the security issues when you live there because it’s a build-up of daily vandalism and pressure from these mafia-like groups on all tourist activities (loads of "historic" expats have already left). The vibe! Otherwise, it’s still a stunning region.
Uhhh, religious conflicts in Indonesia? Where?
Are you referring to the ones in the Moluccas between 1999 and 2003?
I'm in Indonesia right now, and there are no conflicts—just a few protests about fuel, but nothing to worry about. Maybe there are a couple of tensions where you are in Lombok, but that’s normal for Lombok and hasn’t changed. As for problems in tourist areas, yeah, but first, that’s nothing new, second, no one’s forced to go there, and third, it’s a drop in the bucket compared to the size of the country.
As for the prison break, it wasn’t in Aceh but in North Sumatra if I’m not mistaken (the news said "Sumatera Utara," which means North Sumatra), and it was prisoners of all kinds who escaped, not just terrorists (plus, Indonesian "terrorists" aren’t like Bin Laden or Mullah Omar—anyone who knows the country gets what I mean ;-)). Note that the police have already recaptured most of them. Where did you get your wrong info from?
In Papua, the situation is the same as always—the Papuans don’t like Indonesians, but they’re cool with us.
Dude, don’t post stuff like this—you’re misleading people!!!!
And God knows I’m critical of Indonesia, but you’ve gotta be objective...
In the Indonesian media, they were talking about around ten Indonesian terrorists, five of whom had been recaptured! The others are common criminals—I imagine there’s a bunch of joint smokers and scooter thieves in the mix, basically dangerous types 😎 ... That said, many conflicts are kept quiet: last year in Solo, things got really heated against the FPI, with 3 deaths and 3 days of tension—just a few brief mentions in the papers ...
Oh wow, that’s too bad of course, but it’s only three deaths—it happens all the time in Indonesia. When they burn a Shiite mosque, when they catch a few thieves, when one village carries out a punitive expedition against another, it’s just everyday life in this country.
It’s nothing compared to the tens of thousands of deaths during the civil war in the Moluccas, the atrocities committed during East Timor’s independence, or those in Aceh during the GAM era, not to mention Papua.
Oh, and speaking of atrocities—Wiranto is running in the presidential elections! I saw his new ad yesterday: a Muslim hat on his head and "in sha’a Allah" on his lips. It was hilarious, given who he is!!! In his old ad, he was dressed as a karateka—what a man!!!
On the other hand, I see you’re still keeping up with life back home from afar—alhamdulillah! :-))))
I won’t dive into the debate, though—my specialty is more about islands 😛
It makes sense, Pierre, that you don’t know these 8 *Pulau*—that’s their future name. The government, in partnership with a Swedish green entrepreneur, has launched a dual Eco Region project: Tanjung Ringgit http://tanjungringgit.com and, just across the way on the Sumbawa side, the 8 islands: http://eightislands.co.id.
Speaking of Tanjung Ringgit, which I’ve studied more closely, the project seems really innovative and interesting. The goal is to create large green regions based on eco-management and sustainable development. They’re talking about sustainable tourism, eco-architecture, permaculture, energy self-sufficiency, and involving local communities through cooperatives, etc. The project is well thought out, and right now, they’re looking for people to jump into this adventure… so, food for thought 😉
The downside is that travelers like me probably won’t be able to go there anymore, since the accommodations will likely be pretty high-end. But if that’s what it takes to protect these areas from being overrun by big hotel chains, well… I won’t restart the endless debate about the effects of tourism "development," but selfishly speaking, I’m pretty happy to have this kind of project near my future home instead of marinas, shopping malls, amusement parks, and massive hotel complexes.
Anyway… since these islands are turning toward tourism, I can start lifting the "secret."
I’m gonna go a little off-topic here… Sorry about that 😊
These islands are located off the coast of Poto Tano.
Pulau Kenawa is the most well-known. It’s mostly visited by locals who come to spend their Sundays there, so it’s the dirtiest of them all, with the usual trash you’d expect in places frequented by locals.
That doesn’t stop the island from being gorgeous, both above:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/...82640_52102515_n.jpg
These last two islands are better known because the Perama Y cruise boats make a short stop there. For these two, which are further away, we didn’t leave from Poto Tano but from a small Bajau village right across. I remember, it was a Friday 😎
I don’t see where these islands are.
I went to Pulau Moyo a while back, but that was ages ago. Back then, there was just the rangers' building with 2-3 rooms—uhhh, let’s say *very* basic—plus a crappy little kitchen area where you could cook your own meals. At the other end of the island, there was a super-luxury hotel where, according to local legends, Michael Jackson himself had stayed—by helicopter, no less.
But no sign of eight islands.
The ones you’re talking about are on the east side, heading toward Flores? Because in Sumbawa, apart from Moyo, there are only islands to the east, right?
Though I didn’t go to the southern part...
That eco-project thing—yeah, we’ll see. Most of the ones I’ve seen so far were "eco" in name only, but there are exceptions.
Oh, and good news, which will make Momo happy if he’s reading: the FPI is still up to its usual antics in its crusade against "immorality" (the people’s, because when it comes to the government’s immorality and institutional corruption, they’re silent). But they got into trouble today, and their goons are in a bit of a mess because two women died because of them. We’ll see how this plays out, but the government dug up an old law saying that ormas (mass organizations) aren’t allowed to act as police. Poor FPI!
No no, nothing to do with Pulau Moyo, Naps 🙂
You should check out the small islands right in front of Poto Tano (Sumbawa Barat) on Google Earth.
The Eco-Region project is solid. It’s led by John Higson, a Swede who’s done this before, but there’s definitely a risk that local officials will mess things up trying to make as much money as possible along the way... and also the locals themselves, who might struggle to get on board with such a concept...
Oh yeah, I know this area—it's gorgeous, but there's not a drop of water within 20 km, good luck developing tourism there. Plus, the land is owned by a mobster involved in scandals in Jakarta. It’s not gonna be easy.
I saw some land supposedly for sale in the area a while back, but I was advised against it. We’ll see. I prefer the Sumbawa project—it’s an island that’s really worth the detour.
I think water will be much less of an issue than in Sumbawa, given the proximity to Mount Rinjani.
The land status issue remains, but given the size (nearly 400 hectares), I think there’s a lease agreement (contracted with the mafia—quite possible). I can confirm that you should absolutely avoid buying anything by the sea there.
This project is located around Pantai Tangsi, a pink beach that’s been buzzing on the Indonesian internet for two years. It’s only busy on Sundays. A few tour guides are starting to take their clients there (but not many, since it’s far from everything). You can also go on your own—it’s a bit of a hassle if you don’t know the area, but it’s doable. There are a lot of scooter accidents just before reaching the beach; the path down is a real trial course.
Regarding the 8 Eighlands project on Sumbawa, it seems to have just started—the site is still pretty empty. Now’s the time to visit. You’ll need to charter a boat from the fishing village just behind Poto Tano port and bring camping gear since there’s no accommodation. The campsite is nice: http://500px.com/photo/3964692
Further south on Sumbawa, there’s also the Maluk-Sekongkang area with stunning beaches. The town of Maluk and its karaoke scene is pretty sketchy, but the surrounding area is gorgeous, with a special mention for Jelenga Beach (a few kilometers north of Maluk). You can stay in very nice and affordable bungalows there (don’t expect to make friends if you can’t hold a conversation about the last—or next—surf session. Even Rumaji, who could get a pile of rocks talking, didn’t manage).
I can only wish the Swede good luck—he’s gonna need it.
Because whether it’s Sumbawa, Lombok, or anywhere else, this country isn’t a walk in the park for a foreigner trying to set something up. Even for locals, it’s not exactly straightforward.
As long as it stays small-scale, it’s manageable—just gotta grease a few palms at the municipality, the mosque, or the church, and you’re good. But as soon as things grow, it’s a whole different story. There’s always some mustachioed guy lurking around looking to take his cut.
That irrigation project sounds serious, though:
"A survey on the dam’s potential was conducted in 1978, followed by a technical study and an environmental impact analysis in 2009."
31 years between the two studies—that’s what I call *speedy*…
"The project would be completed within the next five years."
Yeah, just like the road from Jayapura to Wamena, which has been on maps for at least 15 years but still doesn’t exist on the ground.
I’m taking bets, personally—I’m putting 1000 € down that their project won’t be ready by the stated year. Lolo, you in? You putting 1000 € on the table? :-))
"cost an estimated Rp 800 billion (US$92.8 million)."
Ahhh, now *that’s* good news—I can already see the mustaches twitching. There’s money to be made!!!
The eight islands—yeah, I know where they are. It’s a pretty rugged region, and it’s not my favorite spot in the country. What’s the deal with the coral reefs?
Yes, the coral reefs are still well preserved down there (compared to the rest of the region).
I wouldn’t bet on it 😉
But I think we shouldn’t compare Indonesia from the 80s-90s to the country it is now.
In less than five years, the country has become a hotspot for foreign investors, and economic growth is strong. Every year, I see the changes, and through the rising cost of my trips, I can tell just how fast they’re catching up. Of course, the country started from a very low base, so not everything will happen overnight (I’ll add a selfish "thank goodness"—if it modernizes too quickly, there won’t be much left to see). Poverty is still present, but it’s decreasing (in Lombok, it’s obvious).
I had the chance to visit the industrial zone in Surabaya. It’s a non-stop ballet of trucks. You see dozens of brand-new companies, often European brands. While in France, a factory closes every day, over there, one opens daily in an industrial zone that must stretch at least 100 km.
An Indonesian middle class is emerging. Its consumption will drive the country forward. Multinationals are already competing for this new middle class (see the business press)—L’Oréal and Renault have just made massive investments in Indonesia.
All this to say that the money that was so lacking for infrastructure until very recently is becoming less and less of an issue. Economists estimate that by 2030, Indonesia will be the world’s 6th-largest economy... ahead of Germany.
They’re still poorly organized and corrupt, that’s for sure and won’t change anytime soon, so I agree that the 5-year timeline might not be met. But the 1978–2009 gap won’t happen again. Of course, remote places like Wamena won’t be the first to benefit from infrastructure modernization, but check out Lombok’s road network in 2007 vs. 2013—it feels like a leap into another century (even if we’re not yet at wide 4-lane highways with speed cameras... phew!). Same for airports: they’re building tons of new ones (which annoys me because more and more little paradises are becoming accessible), and they’re also doubling the capacity of existing ones.
Indonesia as the 6th economic power by 2030? Do you believe that?
Personally, the predictions from economists and other analysts—those clowns who say, "Yes, this year we forecast 2.37% growth and a 9.92% unemployment rate. But next year, growth will rise to 3.46% and unemployment to 10.05%. In 30 years, oil reserves will have dropped by 42.34%, and OPEC production will have halved"—have always made me laugh. Their grand predictions usually turn out to be wrong, but everyone forgets, and what matters is the announcement effect at the time.
Let’s be serious—6th place, right behind Germany? So who’d be ahead of them? The US, China, Japan, Germany, and one more? What a joke!!!
It’s like those economists who say India’s going to eat our lunch. They should go take a look...
That said, Indonesia *is* moving, yeah, but not *that* much.
First, prices.
They’ve just returned to pre-currency crisis levels. Back then, the country was expensive—more than Thailand, for example. We enjoyed low prices for years, but that’s over; back to square one. And let’s not forget all the speculation and scams, because there’s no reason the country should be this expensive. Just one example: gas is cheaper than in Thailand, but transportation costs more. Go figure...
The roads.
Yeah, they’re building them, and it’s not new. But we’ll see in a few years what’s left of those roads. Half—or more—of the budget gets embezzled, and they work with what’s left: a very thin layer of asphalt that’ll develop potholes in no time. I’ve seen it in quite a few parts of this beautiful country, and if we remember in, say, 2-3 years, we’ll be talking about the roads in Lombok again. Though if it becomes super touristy, they’ll make an effort with the roads—not because they’ll steal less, but because they’ll have a bigger budget (which could’ve been used for other islands, but that’s the least of the mustachioed crooks’ worries).
Foreign investments.
That’s not new either—more like the day before yesterday, pre-currency crisis. Back then, they were investing like crazy: cheap, near-slave labor, plenty of raw materials—everything big corporations love. Then came the crisis, the bombs, the war in the Moluccas, and the big shots pulled out. Now that the country’s more stable, they’re coming back. Totally normal. Unfortunately, locals only get the crumbs because wages are still miserable.
The middle class.
Here, I agree with you, and I’m in a good position to know—my partner’s part of it. When I met her, she already had her BlackBerry, her computer, her laptop, her motorbike, etc. There *is* growth, no denying it—it’s the Asian miracle, as economists like to say. Malls are packed, people are buying, buying, buying.
Okay, but the roots remain: the "I-don’t-give-a-damn" attitude and corruption aren’t going anywhere. And despite all the flashy achievements, if you look closer, it’s just a facade—everything’s been thrown together. So yeah, things are evolving, but chaotically and only on the surface. Because Indonesia’s economic growth has nothing to do with China’s. Anyone who’s been to China sees what a real emerging economic power looks like. In China, people work hard, and they work *right*. Indonesia? Uh… not really. They’re just riding the wave of Asian growth.
A quick example? In China, they have a super-dense, well-organized rail network. In Indonesia, train collisions are super common—due to negligence, sure, but also because people steal the rails to sell them later.
Just read the papers or watch TV (which my partner and her mom force on me daily) to see that Indonesia hasn’t changed *that* much. And of course, religion doesn’t help—quite the opposite.
So, the emergence of a middle class? Yes. A little less poverty? Yes, and that’s great. But that’s about it...
Though for us, it *is* changing, as you pointed out—everything’s getting more expensive. Except the services are still the same: *yang penting cepat kaya* (the important thing is to get rich fast), as they say!!!
For the rest, as a friend once said:
the world is turning into one big supermarket...
Foreign investments.
That also isn’t new—well, it’s more like from the day before yesterday, back in the pre-monetary crisis era. Back then, investments were pouring in: cheap exploited labor, plenty of raw materials—everything big companies needed to be happy. Then came the crisis, the bombs, the war in the Moluccas, and the big shots pulled out. Now that the country’s more stable, they’re coming back, which is totally normal. Unfortunately, the locals only get the crumbs because wages are still miserably low.
Yeah, I agree with all of that, but it’ll bring in a lot of money to develop infrastructure.
After that, Indonesians aren’t as hardworking as the Chinese, maybe. Not in the palm oil fields, at least.
In China, they have a super dense and well-organized rail network. In Indonesia, train collisions are super frequent—due to negligence, of course, but also because people steal the rails to resell them.
Indonesia just isn’t made for rail, too many earthquakes. Look at the huge success of Lion Air.
Let’s be serious—6th place, just behind Germany?
Nope. *Ahead* 😎
But with, let’s admit it, a population five times larger and twice as young. Of course, the « I-don’t-give-a-damn » attitude and corruption won’t disappear overnight, but we’re talking about 15-year forecasts here.
Naps, you’re touching on one of my favorite topics, but we’re really going off-topic... This prophecy seems totally realistic to me, but there are unknowns: natural disasters, attacks, and... if the Chinese manage to make the Yuan replace the dollar (which is doomed to collapse). In that case, I agree with you—the Indonesians will just have to ride the wave coming from the South China Sea ;-)
Optimism is beautiful!!!
The 6th? Starting from the bottom?:-)
So they're going to do better than Brazil, Mexico, Argentina, Chile, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, the Gulf countries, Europe, Canada, Australia, New Zealand?
Thanks Lolo for this laugh, I'm still chuckling while writing these lines!!
It reminds me of something I read in an Indonesian Islamo-fascist magazine (Hidayat, to name it), namely that the 1997 monetary crisis was created by the West because Indonesia was about to become a superpower (in English in the text) and the white people were afraid.
You see, there are visionaries in Indonesia too, except that 16 years later, Sister Anne still doesn’t see anything coming...
But yeah, I know, predictions for 2030, the art of analysts not getting their feet wet. So in 17 years. Funny, this year marks 17 years since I’ve known the country. Well, I don’t see them taking the 6th spot—Indonesia in 2013 isn’t even at the ankles of Malaysia or Singapore in 1996...
China, that’s another story. They want to become the bosses, and they’re putting in the effort. Both from the government, which wants to develop the country and turn it into a modern state (not the case in Indonesia, where the government has no long-term vision—the unwritten rule is to fill their pockets now, work as little as possible, and make political decisions that are stupider than the last), and from the population, which plays along (not the case in Indonesia either—I’m not saying they don’t work, but let’s just say the climatic, cultural, and religious factors aren’t the same).
Whether the yuan replaces the dollar, I don’t know, but I think East Asia, with its Chinese engine, might just give Western arrogance a good kick in the pants—and honestly, it’ll serve us right. But definitely not thanks to the Indonesians!!!!
By the way, I just asked my girlfriend what she thinks about the 6th spot, and she kinda agrees—she said "boleh":-))
Good news, by the way, which will please Momo if he’s reading us: the FPI continues to cause trouble in its crusade against immorality (the people’s, because when it comes to the government’s immorality and institutional corruption, they don’t say a word). But today they got a real beating, and their goons are caught up in a nasty mess because two women died because of them. Let’s see how this plays out, but the government has dug up an old law saying that ormas (civilian groups) aren’t allowed to take the place of the police. Poor FPI!
Thanks, guys—this is a really interesting discussion! A bit off-topic, sure, but it belongs here because it raises an underlying question: will low-budget travelers and backpackers still have a place in Indonesia in a few years?
...
As for the FPI, I’m keeping an eye on it, but without much hope. The government’s threats to dissolve this bunch of lunatics are endless. The police want to take back control of the streets and stop Islamist raids? In other cities, they *escort* them! And it’s on the ideological front that they should be fought—reminding them they’re not the only ones in the world, that fasting properly (or not) is a personal matter, not their business. But on that front? Crickets!
For the latest events, I think they didn’t run into locals but rather "gangsters"...
Ah, there you are at last—took you long enough to chime in on this one!!!
Yeah, it’s those gangsters who refused the FPI monkeys’ diktat. And if I had to choose, I’m not sure who’s worse.
Of course, the ideological battleground is where they need to be fought, but it’s far from a done deal given how much of the population is still steeped in bigotry.
You’d see it, Momo (though you already have, but just saying), they’re really going all in right now...
On another note, seen on TV these past few days:
1-How to make palm sugar (gula merah) using coconut water and soap or detergent,
2-How to mix cooking oil with diesel.
But don’t try this at home, of course—the TV channel disclaims all responsibility in case of copycats ;-)
As for the budget plan, the answer’s simple:
Just like before the monetary crisis, when there were few budget travelers in the country, in 2013 it’s the same story. Lately, I’ve met quite a few travelers—not just budget ones, either—who’ve told me Indonesia’s over: too expensive and lousy service. They’re heading to Thailand instead, and honestly, I get it...
Oh, Momo, I’m still waiting for your enlightened take on number 6.
Not the prisoner from the show, but the 6th economic power...
Number 6? Both of your analyses are well-argued, but hey, don’t get mad at me 😎, I’d lean more toward Lolo’s take... Namely that Indonesia is going to become huge: which doesn’t mean it’ll be as rich and well-organized as Germany, but definitely powerful! ... But we’ll see, it’s true that with so much corruption and such lousy infrastructure, it’s a long shot!!
PS/ Were you in Indo when the FACEBOOK hitman scandal happened??? There were tons of Indonesian hitman FACEBOOK pages... 50 juta to take someone out (around 4,000 - 4,500 €)...
Okay, no stories, two against one for number 6.
I’ll put 1000 € on the table that they won’t make it—any takers?
Indonesia’s gonna get a little richer, sure, but it won’t go far, or at least not as far as 6. For real change, there’d need to be a shift in mentality. That shift is happening among the younger, educated generations in Java, but it’ll take more than 17 years before it spreads… Because their parents are still holding onto a good dose of religious-government brainwashing, and let’s not even talk about those in the countryside.
Hitmen on Fakebook? No, I hadn’t heard, but my cop friend says she knew. And she didn’t tell me, the sneaky thing!!! Though she’s not exactly looking for trouble to stir things up in her country—I’ve got enough of that on my plate already!!
But now she tells me it was on Blogspot or WordPress, like:
pembunuhbayaran.blogspot.com
But then she tells me it was on Blogspot or WordPress, like:
pembunuhbayaran.blogspot.com
If the Wolflarsen sperm bank doesn’t work out, that’s what I wanna do 🏴☠️!!! And sometimes I work for free!!!
I don’t get the 1000 € thing... Actually, I have no idea... Hard to predict the future of a country this chaotic!
So they’re going to do better than Brazil, Mexico, Argentina, Chile, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, the Gulf countries, Europe, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand?
You’re forgetting the population factor—I wasn’t talking about GDP per capita. 6th behind China, the US, Japan, Brazil, and Russia (and I’d add the Eurozone if it still exists). Boleh boleh :-)
Yeah, Madame Naps doesn’t dare bet with her man anymore—she loses every time.
But it’s all good, between Momo and you, I’ll make 2,000 euros.
We’ll see what that’s worth in 17 years, though. Lately, I’ve heard a lot of predictions that sound just like the ones from your economists:
in 20 years, it’ll be us giving them massages.
Not gonna lie, I’d be fine with that—if it happens, I’ll become a scammer-guide for Indonesians. And as soon as I see one, I’ll yell:
helloooooo bapakkkkkkkkk dark skin!!!!!
Well, they call us *bule*, which is an insult-mockery about our skin color (like calling someone a "lemon face" or "negro," not exactly nice), so I’m getting my revenge...
Back to your 6th point, I got that it wasn’t just random—it’s like China overtaking Japan because they’ve got 12 times the population.
But still, there’s China, India (another powerhouse, but with 1.3 billion people), Russia, the US, and others—so no, I don’t buy the 6th one...
Go ahead and practice killing because I told Larsenette about my plan and it only kinda made her laugh, given the price of a life on Facebook I'm having second thoughts.
Otherwise, did you see that with the drop in oil reserves, the government is getting more interested in nuclear power? If we consider the seismic risk and the proverbial seriousness of Indian workers, I’d say we’re definitely third... right behind Ukraine and Japan.
Anyway, I hope I’m wrong. After all, there’s no reason economists (those so-called experts who’ve never seen a single crisis coming since they’ve existed) should be the only ones talking nonsense.
Il y a trois sortes d’hommes : les vivants,
les morts, et ceux qui vont sur la mer.
Aristote (parait il)
From what I heard, they’d dropped the nuclear idea because some realized Indonesia wasn’t ready in terms of workforce!! Don’t tell me they’re still considering it? If they are, I can totally see them as #1, ahead of Ukraine and Japan! "Quick, quick, it’s Purnomo—he just tossed his leftover ayam goreng into the nuclear reactor!" ... I can just picture it ...🏴☠️
Given the budgets allocated for a nuclear power plant, it’s no surprise some people insist—it represents a bunch of little student... outings to blow off steam from their overworked lives, right?
And in the game of predictions, I’d lean more toward Naps, but right now I only have a phone to express myself and a bunch of Indonesians in a trance causing chaos in my room.
Gotta take action before I get overwhelmed.
Il y a trois sortes d’hommes : les vivants,
les morts, et ceux qui vont sur la mer.
Aristote (parait il)
As for number 3, I kinda agree with you, though you shouldn’t underestimate them—they could totally fight for first place!!!!!
I don’t know about nuclear in 2013, but a few years back they’d given up on it.
Mind you, in India, which is also well-placed, there are loads of power plants, and they’re running.
But the workforce is foreign—makes you wonder why...
Good luck with your Indonesians, Wolf. My flatmate just arrived with Naps Junior and turned on the damn TV, so I’m half-overwhelmed too...
I think Fukushima had cooled their enthusiasm, but that’s all in the past now.
Hopefully, it’s not just empty talk, otherwise it’s a done deal—NOMOR SATU!!!
Indonesia menang lagi!
Yeah, it must be tough to keep things under control. I can just picture the nuclear technician showing up thinking they’d have an easy time of it.
Il y a trois sortes d’hommes : les vivants,
les morts, et ceux qui vont sur la mer.
Aristote (parait il)
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Hi there,
I’ve found so many tips and reviews on this forum, so it’s my turn to contribute a little.
We spent just over two weeks with our family, with the following itinerary:
- Hanoi: 5 days
- Halong Bay: 3 days and 2 nights
- Tam Coc: 3 days
- Mai Chau: 2 days
- Sapa: 3 days
We got around by bike, scooter, Grab, and bus.
Our main accommodations were homestays and hotels in Hanoi.
We visited lots of museums, temples, and neighborhoods in Hanoi.
We did a 2-day, 1-night trek in Sapa with May, a Hmong local, without going through an agency.
A few small regrets: the weather was overcast, and we couldn’t make it to Fansipan, but nothing major 😅. We also couldn’t find transport to get from Sapa to Mu Cang Chai.
Other than that, this trip will stay in our memories for the kindness of the Vietnamese people, the connections we made, the food (street food, homestays...), the coffee 😋, the landscapes, and how easy it was to get around...
Our goal was to take our time and focus only on a small part of northern Vietnam.
If you need any tips or recommendations, don’t hesitate to ask.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
Hi there, we’re landing at Hanoi Airport and would like to head straight to Cao Bang without going into Hanoi. Does anyone know if there are buses that go directly from the airport to Cao Bang (especially in the early afternoon)? Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
I’m currently working on a 30-day itinerary for May/June 2027.
10 days in eastern Java (Malang, Bromo, waterfalls, Meru Beriti Park, Banyuwangi, and Ijen), a short transit in Ubud for a few days, then Flores before heading back to Jakarta.
We’ll spend 15 days in Flores (the classic route: Moni, Bajawa, Riung, Ruteng, ending in Labuan Bajo).
I’d love some firsthand feedback on flights to Maumere or Ende from Bali Denpasar. I know there are no direct routes and that you have to connect through Labuan Bajo or Timor (I think), which isn’t an issue in itself.
But I’ve read here and there that flights to these destinations can be delayed—or worse, canceled—and that it’s better to fly in and out of Labuan Bajo, which isn’t exactly ideal...
Thanks for any tips or experiences you can share!
hi everyone,
I want to travel in the north for 3 weeks in September-October 2026 to meet ethnic minorities, photograph mountain rice terraces and their harvest, and revisit Halong Bay—but maybe Lan Ha Bay instead. Can you recommend one or more local agencies?
Thanks, and happy holidays!
I need some expert advice on these two destinations for a 15-day trip. We land in KL and plan to stay for 2 days before heading to Borneo and finishing with an island for snorkeling.
For those who’ve been, what are your must-sees?
We were thinking of spending the last 3 days on the Perhentian Islands, unless you’ve got another island to recommend near Borneo.
Thanks for your tips and help!
Hi everyone,
Could you share your thoughts on my 3-week itinerary?
We’re a small group (family + friends) of 12 people, planning to leave around January 21, 2027.
Here’s my itinerary:
3 nights in Bangkok
4 nights in Chiang Mai
3 nights on Koh Samui
3 nights on Koh Phangan
4 nights in Krabi
4 nights in Phuket
I’m also open to any great tips you might have...
Thanks, everyone! Alain.
I’d love to get some feedback on our itinerary—it’s probably pretty basic! This is our second trip to Asia and our first to Indonesia. We have three kids aged 20, 18, and 12. We land in Jakarta at 4 PM, spend 3 nights/2 days there, then take the train to Yogyakarta for 3 nights/2 days, followed by the train to Surabaya for 2 nights/1 day, then the train to Bromo for 1 day/1 night, a private driver to Ijen for 2 nights/2 days, then on to Bali (Ubud) for 4 nights/3 days, followed by Gili Air for 3 nights/2 days, Senggigi (Lombok) for 2 nights, and finally 5 nights in Kuta. I’m considering cutting the 2 nights in Senggigi to just keep Kuta and extend it to 7 nights. In Lombok, I’m not sure how to get around since I’m not comfortable with scooters... Your thoughts on all of this, and any advice, are more than welcome—don’t hesitate!
For those wondering why cities like Jakarta and Surabaya: we don’t often get the chance to visit big Asian cities, so we wanted to include that discovery in our trip. The trains between Jakarta and Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Probolinggo are booked. The return flight from Lombok to Jakarta is also set. Accommodations are booked but flexible (same for the trains).
Hi! I’m planning a 15-day trip to Malaysia. The idea is to visit KL for 2 or 3 days, then Borneo, and I’m wondering what to do with the rest of the time. I’d like to finish with the Perhentian Islands... What do you think? Any tips or advice would be great—I’d really appreciate it!
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for addresses for guesthouses or, even better, houseboats or rafting houses on the River Kwai, between Kanchanaburi and Sangkhlaburi, to spend a few weeks contemplating this beautiful river.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Premaria
Hi there,
we’re currently in Mai Chau and tomorrow we’re hitting the road back to Hanoi to head up toward Bac Ha and Sapa.
We haven’t really had a set plan since we arrived—we’ve already done the Halong Bay on land and by sea.
I’ve got 2 free days before heading to Bac Ha and Sapa.
Any tips?
Thanks, and looking forward to hearing from you.
Hi fellow travelers,
First trip to Vietnam.
We’ll be arriving in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet.
Is it complicated to find accommodation and get around during this period?
Any tips would be welcome.
Thanks for your replies.
Silly question—backpack or hard-shell suitcase for the Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Tioman, KL trip?
I’m struggling to fit all my son’s and my stuff into the 70L backpack... and I’m thinking a suitcase would be easier, but I’m not sure if it’ll work for getting around.
Hi there,
I didn’t plan to return to Thailand this year, but my health conditions mean it’ll be the best place for me to stay between two trips to India. The tourism setup there is so well-organized that it’s the most "comfortable" country for a short visit. Thailand feels too sanitized for my taste, and there’s too much religion, Buddha, and the King, but it’s still the best option given how my health has been evolving. I’d considered two weeks in ThaTon for hiking, but I got too sick from the burn-offs during my trips to the mountains around Chiang Rai. So I’m not sure where to go this year. Definitely not the sea, touristy spots, or the mountains with burn-offs...
Hello.
In 1996, we crossed Vietnam from Saigon to Hanoi by motorbike—Minsk bikes we bought in Saigon. I haven’t been back since, and it seems like a lot has changed.
- We’re heading to the south (well, the north and center) with the family in July-August (3 people).
- Is the road network more developed now? Back then, there was only National Route 1 from south to north. I’m thinking of renting a car this time (no motorbike with the family—though in ’96, they had a Jawa sidecar for sale, and we hesitated… maybe it’s for the best).
- Is Halong Bay really something to avoid because of overtourism? Even back then, it was pretty crowded. Is there a less touristy alternative?
- We’ll be traveling from Hanoi down to Danang (the only city we didn’t stop in back in ’96). Even though it’s a bit overhyped in a Chinese-tourist kind of way (from what I’ve read), we’re only going for the beach—pure relaxation for 7 days. The beaches are stunning, and I know the South China Sea is warm like coffee.
- Then, we’ll visit Hoi An, where I stopped in ’96. It was already popular with backpackers back then, but no glowing boats or all the touristy fuss!
- After that, Hue, where I have great memories—it’s a beautiful city.
- And also the nature around Ninh Binh, followed by 2-3 days in Hanoi.
That’s the plan. I’d love to hear any tips to avoid mass tourism, and if anyone’s done this before:
- Is it possible to rent a car in Danang and drop it off in Hanoi?
Hey everyone,
I’m over in East Borneo in mid-July.
I’m struggling to wrap up the end of my itinerary, even though it’s pretty straightforward (long but simple).
Last year, we did Malaysia (KL and the mainland + around Kuching).
Day 1 – Arrive in Kota Kinabalu early, stroll around town and hit the must-sees.
Day 2 – Excursion to Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, snorkeling at 3 islands.
Day 3 – Hike around Mount Kinabalu without summiting (450 per person, no way).
Day 4 – Poring Hot Springs + evening flight to Sandakan.
Day 5-6-7 – Kinabatangan River (still looking for the right guide).
Day 8 – Sepilok for the orangutans, the Sun Bear Centre, and Rainforest Discovery Centre.
Day 9 – Selingan, turtle island.
Day 10 – Head to Semporna.
Day 11-12-13-14 – Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai.
Day 15 – Bohey Dulang.
Day 16 to Day 25: I’M STUCK.
I looked into Danum Valley, but for 3 days/2 nights, they’re quoting 650 € per person—come on, that’s ridiculous.
I checked out a detour into Indonesia (still East Borneo), but I’m having trouble deciding what would be amazing.
I read about Sangalaki + Kakaban (2 islands, 1 base) / Mahakam Delta - Kutai (orangutans and river) / Sungai Boh (Dayak Kayan) – jungle & culture.
But honestly, I’m struggling to finalize this itinerary.
If we venture that way, we’d head back to KK from Balikpapan.
For a 4-month stay in Egypt, I had ENORMOUS problems. The regulations are very bureaucratic and extremely nitpicky there. For a 4-month stay in the Philippines, I was wondering if the procedures are just as complicated? I’m bringing my cell phone with an eSIM. Should I choose a plan from Canada for use in the Philippines, or should I get a plan only once I arrive? After 30 days, do I renew with the Canadian provider I chose before leaving, or do I switch to a local company? Do I need to register my phone with the authorities in the Philippines? (That was the case in Egypt.) For the 3rd and 4th months, will it be just as simple—renewing with a Canadian or local provider—or should I expect problems?
Hello,
I’ll be in Malaysia with my wife, mainly in Langkawi and Penang for Christmas and New Year’s at the end of 2026.
If you’ve had the experience—and since I’ve read (though it’s not very clear) that these two islands get quite crowded during this period—would you recommend booking accommodation well in advance, or is it easy to find something on the spot?
Hotels or Airbnb?
Do you have any great tips for accommodation or any practical info to share?
We’ll be staying 5 to 7 days on each island.
Thanks in advance for your replies
Hi there. To make the most of Lake Toba, is it better to find accommodation on the lake’s shores (which one?) or on Samosir Island? Thanks for your tips!
Hi there,
We’re heading to Vietnam as a family on July 8th for a little over 3 weeks (north and center). We’ve only booked the first 3 nights in Hanoi, and nothing else after that. We like to decide things on the spot and go with the flow, without rushing everywhere. But I’m still a bit unsure: when heading down to the center (Hue), is it better to book the overnight trains in advance? We don’t want to take any flights while we’re there—just use the overnight train for the long trips. But I’m worried we won’t get seats if we buy the tickets on the spot, say, 2 days before. What do the experts here think? And which website can we use to book the tickets? Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hi everyone!
I’m heading back to Thailand in July 2026 with a stopover in Cambodia to visit the Angkor site.
After Angkor, I’ve booked a stay on Ko Chang island. Does anyone know if there are direct transport options from Cambodia to Ko Chang without having to go back through Bangkok? That would be amazing!!
I think there are, but I’d need more details!!
I went to Thailand in February 2025 and don’t remember having to apply for a visa—is that still the case now? And for Cambodia too?
Thanks so much!!!
Laurence from Bayonne
Hi,
After our trip to China, we want to spend a week in the Philippines for some beach time and snorkeling.
We're looking for the best spot to settle in—nice beaches, great marine life, and short transfer times.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Does anyone know of a private transfer or taxi company that organizes transfers from the Sukhothai area to Chiang Mai?
Our routes are Sukhothai-Lampang, Lampang-Chom Thong, and Chom Thong-Chiang Mai.
My searches on Google Maps, 12Go, and others haven’t turned up much...
For our Bangkok-Sukhothai trips, I use a company I’ve already tried, but they don’t have a fleet available from Sukhothai and have to go through third-party companies—which, understandably, take their commission. This nearly doubles the prices...
There are four of us, and we’re not traveling light, so a minibus isn’t an option. ;-)
Hello,
While traveling in Thailand, I’m looking for a Buddhist kumlai reed bracelet.
Does anyone know where I can find one?
In Bangkok, I visited a few temples but didn’t see any in the nearby shops.
If you have any ideas, I’d love to hear them! Have a great day! :-)
My trip’s coming up, and I’m having a bit of trouble with three bus/minivan routes. Usually, I find everything at this time of year, but this time—yikes!
Sandakan → Sepilok:
No app for this one—you just hop on bus #14 at the local terminal (pay cash on board). But where do I catch it, and where’s the stop??
Sandakan → Semporna:
From what I’ve heard, it’s the Sida Express company (great name, right? 😄).
Can’t book online, but apparently, you *have* to because there’s only one bus at 8 AM.
Where do I board, and where does it drop me off?
Semporna → Tawau:
Found this via AI—is it legit?
No online booking, as far as I can tell.
Minivans leave from a stop in the Jalan Hospital area, near the Milimewa supermarket, supposedly????
And when you arrive, does it drop you at **Sabindo Square** in Tawau?????
Hi there,
we’ll be in Mai Chau in June and we’re thinking of heading to Sapa, but first spending a few days in Bac Ha to do some hiking and explore the area.
Is this a good idea for those who’ve been there?
How do you get there?
Thanks for your feedback.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
Hi there,
I’m planning an itinerary and would love some feedback on whether it’s doable and if the number of days per destination is enough—or too much. I was also debating whether to add an extra night on an island or spend an extra night in Kampot to visit Kep or Battambang.
March 23: Arrival in Phnom Penh in the morning
March 24: Phnom Penh
March 25: Phnom Penh
March 26: Depart for Kampot
March 27: Kampot
March 28: Depart for Battambang
March 29: Battambang
March 30: Tonlé SAP to Siem Reap
March 31: Siem Reap
April 1: Siem Reap
April 2: Siem Reap
April 3: Siem Reap
April 4: Siem Reap
April 5: Departure
