Voyage à vélo au Pérou (Nord), avis sur itinéraire?
by Rodolphe78
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Me voila bien dans mes preparatifs de voyage (départ le 18 Juin ) ! j ai acheté un velo qui m attend a Lima et je compte le revendre a la fin de mon périple ! Avis au interressé ! ( Fin Aout )
j ai preparé mon itineraire et je pense faire Lima -Barranca en bus pour éviter la Panamericaine ; Barranca -Huaraz , Grimpe a hatun-Machay ( superbe site de grimpe) ;Huaraz-caraz puis tenter une traversé vers Cajamarca , j ai besoin d avis sur cet itinéraire car peu d info sur ce chemin et je souhaite rester le plus possible dans les montagne/Altiplano ; Cajamarca -Celendine -Chachapoya ( site de Kuelap ) puis remonter vers Moyabamba et Tarapoto ou je souhaite me poser 1a 2 semaines . Ensuite en Aout j aimerais rouler vers le sud pour rejoindre Tingo Maria (Jungle ) pour finir a Pucallpa et enfin rentrer a Lima en Bus .
Cet itineraire est peu frequent en tous cas peu de Cycloaventurier en parle !! j ai besoin de vos experiences et conseils .
Je pars seul et je suis ouvert a des rencontre sur mon chemin et pour parcourir ensemble un bout de route .
Je connais deja bien le Pérou en l ayant parcourue en Bus de nombreuse fois ( Nord et Sud ) mais ce seras la premiere fois en vélo . Merci
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Salut Rodolphe
Je viens de faire Cajamarca- Caraz (en sens inverse de ce que tu souhaites faire donc)
je suis en mesure de te filer quelques infos.
Pour commencer, voici l'article de mon blog qui traite de cette partie.
http://loicvelomonde.blogspot.com/2013/06/de-cajamarca-caraz.html
et les photos : https://picasaweb.google.com/102088641366085129231/Perou?authuser=0&feat=directlink (regarde vers la fin, l'emplacement est marqué en légende)
Dans le sens ou tu vas le faire:
De Caraz à Pallasca, 30km de route asphaltée, peu de circulation, ça devient de la piste au niveau du Canon del pato (superbe!), tu vas le faire en descente, donc encore plus agréable. les paysages lunaires continuent jusqu'a Pallasca (je suis passé par Chuquicara et Estation Equiroz, mais y a une variante par Cabana qui me semble bien plus difficile) Tu trouveras des Tiendas a Chuquicara, par contre ne compte pas sur estation Equiroz, il n'y a absolument rien, juste un croisement.
De Pallasca à Cachicadan, il y a plusieurs villages, tu peux trouver des tiendas dans chacun et meme parfois des restos et des Hospedaje. Pas besoin de trop te charger en eau et en bouffe. (je te mets la liste des villages que tu va traverser en pièces jointe)
De Cachicadan à Huamachuco, la piste est vraiment mauvaise et les croisements sont nombreux. il y a quelques hameaux dont voici la liste est aussi en pièce jointe , par contre ne compte pas dessus pour te ravitailler.
Je te conseille de faire des copies d'écran google maps assez precis et/ou d'emmener une bonne carte aussi de recopier la liste des villages, c'est toujours pratique pour demander sont chemin. Cela dit j'avais une carte Michelin 1cm=15km et je m'en suis sorti (avec pas mal de détours quand même) Ensuite de Huamachuco à Cajamarca, pas de soucis, c'est asphalté et très agréable à rouler. Sii t'as d'autres questions plus précises, n'hesite pas c'est encore tout frais dans ma tête 😉
Pour résumé, c'est difficile, mais les paysages sont vraiment chouettes. bonne route, enfin bonne piste...
et les photos : https://picasaweb.google.com/102088641366085129231/Perou?authuser=0&feat=directlink (regarde vers la fin, l'emplacement est marqué en légende)
Dans le sens ou tu vas le faire:
De Caraz à Pallasca, 30km de route asphaltée, peu de circulation, ça devient de la piste au niveau du Canon del pato (superbe!), tu vas le faire en descente, donc encore plus agréable. les paysages lunaires continuent jusqu'a Pallasca (je suis passé par Chuquicara et Estation Equiroz, mais y a une variante par Cabana qui me semble bien plus difficile) Tu trouveras des Tiendas a Chuquicara, par contre ne compte pas sur estation Equiroz, il n'y a absolument rien, juste un croisement.
De Pallasca à Cachicadan, il y a plusieurs villages, tu peux trouver des tiendas dans chacun et meme parfois des restos et des Hospedaje. Pas besoin de trop te charger en eau et en bouffe. (je te mets la liste des villages que tu va traverser en pièces jointe)
De Cachicadan à Huamachuco, la piste est vraiment mauvaise et les croisements sont nombreux. il y a quelques hameaux dont voici la liste est aussi en pièce jointe , par contre ne compte pas dessus pour te ravitailler.
Je te conseille de faire des copies d'écran google maps assez precis et/ou d'emmener une bonne carte aussi de recopier la liste des villages, c'est toujours pratique pour demander sont chemin. Cela dit j'avais une carte Michelin 1cm=15km et je m'en suis sorti (avec pas mal de détours quand même) Ensuite de Huamachuco à Cajamarca, pas de soucis, c'est asphalté et très agréable à rouler. Sii t'as d'autres questions plus précises, n'hesite pas c'est encore tout frais dans ma tête 😉
Pour résumé, c'est difficile, mais les paysages sont vraiment chouettes. bonne route, enfin bonne piste...
merci , pour ton message , je vais prendre le temps de lire ton blog ce week end ,
a bientot
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Hola !
Nous sommes passés par là fin Octobre début novembre, tu trouveras des infos aussi sur notre site, probablement complémentaires. Pour la carte, ne te bile pas, on avait qu'une michelin de 1 cm -> 40 km, et il n'y a pas 36 000 routes non plus. Bon d'un autre côté, c'est qd mm pratique d'en avoir une bonne.
Sinon, je suis d'accord, c'est magnifique, pour nous les plus beaux passages du Pérou, et aucun touriste. De l'épique en perspective. Par contre, ce sera pas facile tous les jours 🤪 ! Certaines pistes sont effet vraiment en mauvaise état, et certains passages s'apparentent vraiment à du VTT.
Si t'as questions plus précises, n'hésite pas !
-->> www.tandazimut.com
Antoine et la petite famille
Nous sommes passés par là fin Octobre début novembre, tu trouveras des infos aussi sur notre site, probablement complémentaires. Pour la carte, ne te bile pas, on avait qu'une michelin de 1 cm -> 40 km, et il n'y a pas 36 000 routes non plus. Bon d'un autre côté, c'est qd mm pratique d'en avoir une bonne.
Sinon, je suis d'accord, c'est magnifique, pour nous les plus beaux passages du Pérou, et aucun touriste. De l'épique en perspective. Par contre, ce sera pas facile tous les jours 🤪 ! Certaines pistes sont effet vraiment en mauvaise état, et certains passages s'apparentent vraiment à du VTT.
Si t'as questions plus précises, n'hésite pas !
-->> www.tandazimut.com
Antoine et la petite famille
Afrique Australe avec les 2 mômes (7 et 2 ans)
Amérique du Sud sur 10 mois (10 000 km), avec notre fiston (3ans)
Asie et du Moyen-Orient sur un an (16500 km).
www.tandazimut.com
www.tandazimut.com
merci pour toutes ces infos ! je pense avoir une bonne carte car y est marqué tous les noms des villages indiqué sur les paneaux . J ai une idée maintenant plus precise de mon itineraire , je suis donc impatient de parcourir ce Chemin et j espere ne pas me perdre entre Yamobamba et Cachicadan car ca a l air d etre la le plus paumatoire !!?
tu dois etre en train de traversé la cordillere blanche , je te souhaite bonne route . Merci
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salut , ou en est tu de ton voYAGE-
MOI JE SUIS A CAJAMARCA , J AI FAIS UNE SUPERBE TRAVERSE , de caraz a cajamarca , par le canion del pato puis vers corongo et puis tous les bled e la Pampa ( puna) pour sortir et me retrouver sur l hasphalte jusqua caja bamba , quels bonheur le goudron apres presque 10 jours sur des pistes vraiment merdique !! beaucoup de crevaisons car pneu de moyenne qualite a l arriere !
Je continue maintenant en direction de Chachapoya , bcp de montee m attendent ! Je te souhaite une belle aventure !
J ai bcp pense a toi en me disant que tu avait de la chance de decsendre la je montee et inversement !! hahahaha !
C vrai que le canion del pato a la montee a du etre tres chaud surtout dans les tunnels ! Allez ciao et bon pedalage !
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Yo Rodolphe,
content de voir que ça se soit bien passé pour toi. Les cyclos avec qui j'ai roulé dernièrement sont passés par Chachapoya. Apparemment c'est du costaud! T'en as pas fini avec la piste et les grimpettes.
Moi je suis à Cusco depuis quelques jours, bien content d'avoir passé les 6 cols à plus de 4000m entre Ayacucho et Cusco. Je vais vers Puno et La Paz, encore un peu de bosses et le plat de l'altiplano.
bon voyage
loic
he oui je crois que je vais en baver ! Tu as de la chance de rencontrer d autre cyclo ! j aimerais ca faire un bout de chemin avec d autres ! Bon voyage !
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Hello,
est-ce qu'un trajet Lima - La Paz à vélo est réaliste ? Il faudrait combien de temps selon vous ?
est-ce qu'un trajet Lima - La Paz à vélo est réaliste ? Il faudrait combien de temps selon vous ?
Récits de voyage et conseils pour la préparation d'un tour du monde sur http://tour-monde.fr/
Lima - La Paz est réaliste, c'est même une route classique des cyclovoyageurs. Difficile certes, mais les paysages sont superbes!
Ca peut prendre entre un mois et un mois et demi selon l'itinéraire choisi et le nombre de kilomètres journaliers.
Ca peut prendre entre un mois et un mois et demi selon l'itinéraire choisi et le nombre de kilomètres journaliers.
Merci beaucoup pour ta réponse :)
Du coup il y a de grandes chances que je fasse ça au printemps 2014.
Récits de voyage et conseils pour la préparation d'un tour du monde sur http://tour-monde.fr/
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Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Hi! I’m planning to visit the Stockholm Archipelago by bike in early April.
Do you know if the boats will be running between the different islands at that time of year? For those who’ve already been, all your tips and recommendations are welcome—accommodation, etc. Also, do you know where I can rent a bike in Stockholm? Thanks so much in advance for your help!








